surf

LE SURF - NO 1 - JANUARY 2011 1

NO. 1 JANUARY 2011 $4.99


KLARA ESSEMYRVice President/Editor-in-Chief

JOHAN JEPPSSON Creative Director

DANIEL HANSSONManaging Director

MARCUS TURUNEN Market Director

FEATURES

Matt ias Göransson Pet ra Rohrer St ina Rosén Rasmus Löf l ingEr i k Modé Anna Car l s sonMart in Ni l s son

PHOTOGRAPHY

Heid i Paavi la inen Emma Jus l inMikko par tanen Kat r i Tammel in E l in Hermansson My Eke lund

COPY/RESEARCH

Kr i s to f fe r B jörks t rand Anna Nord Mårten Hemst röm Ransta


TABLE OF CONTENTS

5. LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

6-7 . OLA OLEOGRAM

Interview at Volcom Pipe Pro

8 - 9 . SURFERS GLOSSARY

Quick guide to buying your first surfboard

10 - 13 .HEATHER BROWN

Exclusive interview with the surferartist

14 - 15 .SURFCAMP

Edison gives you the bestsurf on North Shore Hawaii


WITH A STICKERLESS BOARD NEATLY TUCKED UNDER HIS TANNED ARM,

MAUI’S OWN OLA OLEOGRAM JOGS TOWARD PIPELINE AND PLANTS HIS FOOT IN A PILE OF DOG SHIT. WHERE OTHERS WOULD STRING TOGETHER A SLEW OF FOUR-LETTER WORDS, OLA SIMPLY SHRUGS HIS SHOULDERS AND CRACKS A GRIN. “AT LEAST I GOT THAT OUT OF THE WAY, “ HE TELLS ME. “PLUS, IT’S SUPPOSED TO BE GOOD LUCK, WHICH I COULD USE RIGHT ABOUT NOW.“

Just a few hours later, Ola is putting on one of the most phenomenal performances of his career on the second day of the Volcom Pipe Pro. He’s taken out Sion Milosky, Chris Waring, and Roy Powers in some of the finest conditions Pipe could offer, and he’s on to round four. For Ola, this is the performance he’s been aching to produce. His prowess among those in the know is unfaltering, but to the masses, Ola remains unknown. With a good showing at this event, he hopes that will change. “Well, I’m pretty much broke and sponsorless. This is the only event I’ve done this winter,“ says Ola. “It was either this or the Sunset con-

test…I couldn’t afford to fly over from Maui and do both, so yeah, I’m pretty stoked on today. I’m just glad to still be in the comp.“

It’s stories like Ola’s – stories of an underdog betting his last paycheck on a dream – that make the Volcom Pipe Pro so special. Nearly every heat carries with it a blue-collar surfer bleeding talent and tenacity, each heat offering the chance to make a career. On the opposite side of the spectrum from Ola stands John Florence. Dripping with sponsors and confidence, Florence’s rise from boy wonder to man of the hour has by no means gone undoc-umented by the media. Remarkably steely in a jersey, you get the feeling that John’s either completely oblivious to the hype surrounding him or he’s just that certain of his abilities.

Anyone that watched John compete yesterday was left with the sobering

realization that this kid is destined for something big. Competing against Sunny Garcia, Gabriel Villaran, and Solomon Ortiz, John grace-fully paddled himself into some of the throatiest tubes of the day, all the while barely

raising his heart rate. With every set that approached the reef at Pipe, you could almost feel the collective mood of the crowd change. When John surfs Pipeline, we’ve come to expect big things. “Yeah,

MAUIS FINEST

» Well, I’m

pretty much

broke and

sponsorless

WRITTEN BY ER IK MODÉPHOTOGRAPHY BY EMMA JUSL IN

LE SURF - NO 1 - JANUARY 2011 5I’ve heard all of the hype surrounding me this winter,“ says John, “but I don’t pay any attention to it. For me, I just want to go out there and surf. That’s all I want to do.“

In recent years, there’s been a deluge of Australians that have drawn intensely close relationships with Pipeline. Mark Mathews, Dean Morrison, and Anthony Walsh have all been leading the Aussie contingency. Yesterday, however, the Aussies were purged from the event entirely by the rank-and-file Hawaiian surfers. At the cusp of the Hawaiian powerhouse, Bruce Irons and Ian Walsh both dropped some of the day’s highest heat scores. Walsh, who scored a perfect 10 at Pipe, recalled his wave. “I got a couple extra scratches and gave a little whistle to Mark [Healey] because he was pretty head down into it. I just got one big lucky pump without grabbing [rail] which kind of gave me more room to pump, and it just stayed open and I came out happy. It’s my first perfect 10 in this contest or any event in Hawaii, so I’m psyched.“ The forecast for today is calling for a slight drop in swell before a new surge fills in as early as Friday.

OLA CATCHING THE F IRST BARREL


BLANK - Rough molded foam core that comes in different basic designs and rockers depending on the length and type of surfboard being shaped. Usually made from polyurethane foam.

BOTTOM CONTOUR - The lateral curve of the bottom of the boardas it runs from rail to rail. Can be concave or convex (vee bottom).

CARBON FIBER - A type of super-strong fiber, soakable in resin, which is occasionally laid in strips along the length of a board during glassing to help prevent creasing.

CONCAVE - The main purpose of concave is to channel the water flow down the length of the surfboard. This channeling of the water along the center of the board and out through the tail adds more lift and respon-siveness to the surfboard. Concaves are a very important design feature and can cause a board to track swiftly and improve tail responsiveness for critical turns.

DRAG - The effect that causes water flow to be slowed or disrupted as it passes along a surfboard’s surfaces. Controlled drag is an essential requirement of surfboard design.

FOIL - The distribution of foam from nose to tail on a surfboard. For the board to flow correctly, it must be evenly balanced through the shape. If there is excessive foam left in the nose, center, or tail, it will create anuneven flow and cause the surfboard to be unbalanced.

RAILS - The perimeter of the board. There are several different main types of rails which all produce a different effect. Soft and rounded rails make the board slower but easier to handle. Down rails (where the rail comes to an edge toward the bottom of the board) increases speed but makes the board more difficult to turn. Sharper rails promote quick turns but don’t carry momentum as well as fuller rails.

SURFERS GLOSSARY

WRITTEN BY ANNA NORD


RELEASE - The effect that allows water flow to be accelerated as it passes along a surfboard’s surfaces. Release is altered through tail rocker, outline curves, trailing fin edges, and through bottom features, such as concaves and channels. Controlled release (along with its opposite, drag) is essen-tial to successful surfboard design.

ROCKER - Rocker is the curve of your surfboard from nose to tail. It can be broken down into different sections such as nose rocker, tail rocker, and center. It is the single most important aspect of your surfboard.

TAILS - The back section of the board. Tail width is meas-ured at a right angle to the board’s stringer, one foot up from the end. Increased tail width means greater speed, especially in smaller surf, but less control; narrower tails don’t maneuver as well, but adhere better to the wave face and are ideal for big-wave boards and tuberid-ing. Types include swallow, pin, rounded-pin, bat, square, thumb, diamond, and asymmetrical.

VEE - The opposite of concave, vee is used to loosen up the tail at high speeds by increasing the rocker at the rail line, making it easier to lean on edge and turn.

SURFERS GLOSSARY

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HEATHER BROWN DOES NOT JUST USE WATER AS A SUBJECT FOR THE PAINT-

INGS SHE EXHIBITS IN GALLERIES AROUND THE WORLD, SHE LIVES IN IT. The 36-year-old artist from California has called Hawai‘i home for 10 years, has surfed for nine and is even a bona fide scuba dive master. If that isn’t enough, she works in her two story house in Maunalani Heights, where she lives with her boyfriend-slash-manager Chris and their 1-year-old English bulldog Marley, and regularly paints in front of a vertigo-inducing view of the Honolulu coastline.

The house is bright and open, with surf boards propped up in every corner and gicleés – advanced reproductions

of her oil paintings – lining high white walls. The totally unpretentious artist, who is building a name for herself in Hawai‘i, California, New York and Tokyo for her deconstructed illustrations of surfers and waterscapes, has gone from selling her first painting on eBay for “$30 or $40 bucks“ to commanding up to $15,000 for an original piece.

The super smiley and laid-back artist talked to FLUX about traveling to tropi-cal destinations, why time machines are superior to teleporters and how she loves sharing a piece of Hawai‘i with the rest of the world. The more we talked with her, the cool breeze coming in through the window on a perfectly clear Saturday afternoon, the more we realized – the girl has a lot to smile about.

HEATHER BROWN

SURF INSPIRATION


LESURF: When did you first discover your artistic ability?HEATHER BROWN: When I was a Kid, I was always making art and making creative stuff. My Grandma was an artist so I remember many days hanging out with her creating fun art projects.

LS: Are you self taught or did you study art?HB: I graduated from the University of Hawaii Manoa with my bachelors in fine arts.

LS: What is your artistic process?HB: I paint with acrylic, create silkscreen prints, and woodblock prints. I

LS: Do you like to listen to music while you work? If so, what music do you like to work to?HB: Yes!!! Different kinds depending on my mood, lots of Reggae, Mattson Two, Ray Barbee, Ugly Casanova, Blacktop Project, old jazz and Bossa Nova, old school punk, a good variety!

LS: How big of a role does surfing play in your inspiration? If you weren’t surfing, do you think your work would be the same?HB: I think surfing puts me in the same happy and creative mindset that making art does, it frees my mind, and I just take in all the beauty around me and enjoy the waves. I really feel the most simple things in life bring the most happiness and fulfillment.

LS: You recently switched your art prints to a more eco-friendly paper. Can you tell us about it?HB: I’m always looking for ways to be more environmentally friendly in everything I do, my lifestyle and work as well. I try to leave the smallest carbon footprint I can and every little step counts I think. I’ve invested in a new product for my art prints and it is a sustainable eco-friendly sugar cane paper which is bleach free and I use water based inks. I think it makes it more special to have beautiful art on a paper made from sugar cane which doesn’t deplete a forest and take away from animal habitats.

WRITTEN BY RASMUS LÖFL ING PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKKO PARTANEN

LE SURF - NO 1 - JANUARY 2011 11I also am only using organic cotton for when I use my art on tote bags and tees. I recycle anything that can be recycled. We compost our food scraps in a worm com-poster, reuse materials, and my fiancé Chris has been making me these fantastic frames for my art made from reclaimed wood from torn down houses in Hawaii. They are so cool!

LS: We hear you started a new company, Green With Aloha. How is that going?HB: Just a little side project to keep people aware and provide products with art on them for items that enable to live a more green lifestyle, the first item in the project are reusable tote bags. I’m looking into creating more in the future.

LS: Any words of advice for aspiring artists?HB: I’d say create art with a free mind. Don’t over think it, just let it happen. Don’t worry too much about the end result. Just con-

centrate on the process and enjoy it! Also, for artists to create art in an original style that is unique to them. It’s always great to be inspired by other artists, but I wouldn’t encourage copying other art. And most important, be passionate about it and have fun!


EXPERIENCE WORLD-CLASS SURF INSTRUCTION, OUTDOOR ADVENTURES AND YOGA CLASSES ON THE LEGENDARY NORTH SHORE OF OAHU. ALL THAT WHILE ENJOYING

THE HISTORIC HALEIWA SURF TOWN, IN STYLISH ACCOMMODATIONS IN THE MOST AU-THENTIC HAWAIIAN SPIRIT.

Based in a very relaxing family home or a stylish beachfront home, only 15 minutes from Haleiwa downtown, our surf camp provides daily surf lessons, Yoga sessions, outdoor activities and great restaurants for you to enjoy delicious meals. Mingle with the North Shore locals and enjoy the international surf scene in this legendary surf mecca. Come alone, with friends or your loved one, and be ready to to get stoked!

Thanks to the North Shore’s diverse range of surf breaks, which offer from perfect little waves to powerful big barrels, our surf camps are open to surfers of all skill levels. Surf Hawaii - Surf School’s expert team is formed of certified lifeguards and world-class big wave surfers who are expe-rienced in coaching first-timers to more advanced surfers with North Shore surf lessons. In addition to enjoying the surf in the local breaks, you’ll also visit all the North Shore beaches that make up the history of Hawaiian surf, such as Pipeline, Sunset Beach and Waimea Bay.

Beginner surfers will be taught everything they need to know to catch their first waves, and also to gain the con-fidence and knowledge to continue surfing after the camp is over. Intermediate and experienced surfers will learn more advanced techniques to be more confident and aggressive and take their surfing to the next level. All levels will also receive instruction on reading surf reports, which is essential in planning you next surf trip.

SURF CAMP PACKAGE INCLUDES:

» Airport Transfer » 7 Nights Accommodations » Daily 2 to 3 hours Surf » ALL Equipment Included » Yoga Classes » Tour of Pipeline, Sunset

and Waimea Bay » Sea Turtle Tour » Sunset Barbecue » Jacuzzi » Stand Up Paddle Lessons » Wireless Internet Access » Signed Poster by Edison

SURFCAMPWRITTEN BY

MATTIAS GÖRANSSON

NUMBER OFSTUDENTS

BRIEF DESCRIPT ION

PRICE PERPERSON

» One student » Room and bath to yourself » $1,895.00

» Two students » Share room and bath » $1,695.00

» 3 or more students » Contact us for discounted rates » 1 (808) 295-1241PR

ICE

S


STUDENT AND TEACHERS 2010

SUNSET OVER SHARKS COVE, HAL IEWA

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