summer wallet tutorial

7/28/2019 Summer Wallet Tutorial

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Summer Wallet Tutorial

As promised, direct from The Scrap Lab, The Summer Wallet tutorial!First, a little bit about these wallets; they are meant to be a little loose and flexible. Perhaps Ishould say, they are free-spirited, ready to go at a moments notice...to the beach, a festival, fair,hike or farmer's market. Right, on with the show.

Details, details...

Materials:Some fabric scrapsMedium weight fusible interfacing

Various trims4" piece of narrow elasticButtonThread

Cutting guide:Fabric A = cut one 9 1/2" X 4 1/2" rectangle (this is going to be the outside of your wallet. Irecommend using a heavier wt. fabric like home decor, denim, canvas, etc.)Fabric B = cut one 9 1/2" X 4 1/2" rectangle (inside of wallet)Fabric C = cut one 9 1/2" X 6 1/2" rectangle (pocket 1)Fabric D = cut one 9 1/2" X 5" rectangle (pocket 2)Interfacing = cut one 9" X 4" rectangle

Please forgive the photos, they were taken in my dark as a mine basement sewing room, with aflash. Do click on them to magnify if you need a close up.
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First, center the fusible facing on the wrong side ofFabric B and fuse following the manufacturersinstructions, set aside.

Now, take your Fabric C & D rectangles and fold them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and

press with an iron. You can then top stitch close to the folded edge. These are your two pockets.

Take your interfaced Fabric B and lay it right side up in front of you. Place your Fabric C pocket ontop matching bottom and side raw edges. Repeat with Fabric D pocket. Pin in place, baste layerstogether close to the raw edges.

Twist elastic into a loop, pin to the center of the right end on top of the stack, baste in place.(With the loop part of elastic facing in)
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Next, it's time to get creative! Pull out your ribbons and trims and play around with them until youare tickled with the result. Attach them to the right side of one end of your Fabric A rectangle, like

so...(I just sewed on some ribbon and ric-rac)Take Fabric A and place on top of stack right sides facing, matching all raw edges. Making sure thatthe embellished end of Fabric A is opposite the end with the elastic loop. Pin in place and stitchthrough all layers with a scant 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 3 inch opening at the top long edgefor turning.

Now clip your corners.
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It's time to turn your wallet right side out, taking time to shape it nicely. Turn the seam allowancesof the top opening towards the inside and press thoroughly. Top stitch 1/8" around all outer edges.

Now find the center point of your wallet on the inside. I use a ruler and a fabric marker or quilting

pencil to mark a line down the middle. Stitch down the line from bottom to top with a straightstitch to create divided pockets.

Fold the wallet in half and press carefully along fold on outside. Mark button placement accordingto elastic on front of wallet and hand sew a button to the front.

All that is left is for you to grab your essential wallet fare and head out on an adventure!
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Extra Bits:*You do not have to use all different fabrics, do whatever suits your fancy.*Using old jeans, curtains, tea towels...for this project is a great way to recycle.*You can choose a different closure method than the elastic. Such as; snaps, Velcro, magneticclosures and in the case of the wallet I made for myself, I added no closure at all.*If you have any questions, or suggestions to make this tutorial better, just drop me a line.

If you make one of these wallets I would love if you emailed me a picture [email protected].

Here is a rough sketch and reference for print out. Just click on the picture below and print.
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Wristlet

Editor: Liz Johnson

Friday, 13 November 2009 9:00

Sometimes you want to travel light with just the essentials at hand. For this, you need: the wristlet. A

tiny, tidy tote that hangs from your wrist. It's just 5" x 7", but holds all the necessities with room to

spare. Zip up your spending cash, a couple o' credit cards, maybe a bit of makeup and a comb. Ours

has a detachable strap, so you can unclip it, and drop it into a bigger bag, like a handy wallet. So

versatile, so itty-bitty cute, and with our excellent step-by-step instructions and photos ... so easy!

This is a perfect project to use up bits and pieces. Our wristlet was made from scraps of Heather

Bailey's Freshcut we had leftover from the summer'sPatio Partyprojects. We added a plain cream

linen from our fabric stash, which coordinated nicely with everything. Our only purchases were a little

interfacing, the zipper, and the hardware for the strap, which meant we still had a little folding money

to put inside the wristlet.
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Sewing Tools You Need

Any Sewing Machine (we recommend theJanome DC4030) Zipper foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

Fabric scraps to work with the cutting dimensions shown below yard medium-weight fusible interfacing yard light-weight fusible interfacing 7" zipper " D ring " swivel clip All purpose thread See-through ruler Fabric pencil Scissors or rotary cutter and mat Iron and ironing board Straight pins
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Getting Started

Based on the diagram above, cut all the pieces listed below. These kinds of precise cuts of small

pieces are best done with a rotary cutter, mat and see-through ruler. You'll get straighter edges and

truer 90 corners.

For the bag:

A -- strap: 14" x 3"

B -- strap tab: 3" x 3"

C -- top front accent square: 2" x 2"
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D -- top front rectangle: 6" x 2"

E -- bottom front: 8" x 4"

F -- back: 8" x 6"

For the lining:

G -- back lining: 8" x 6"

H -- front top lining: 8" x 2"

I -- front bottom lining: 8" x 4:

From the medium-weight fusible interfacing:

C -- top front accent square: 2" x 2"

D -- top front rectangle: 6" x 2"

E -- bottom front: 8" x 4"

F -- back: 8" x 6"

G -- back lining: 8" x 6"

H -- front top lining: 8" x 2"

I -- front bottom lining: 8" x 4:

From the light-weight fusible interfacing:

A -- strap: 14" x 3"

B -- strap tab: 3" x 3"


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At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing all pieces

1. Match up each fabric piece with its corresponding interfacing piece. Following manufacturer'sdirections, use your iron to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each fabric piece.

2. It's easy to tell which side is which on fusible interfacing by feeling it. Rub your fingers over both sides;the side with the fusing will feel slightly bumpy. Place the bumpy side against your fabric and press to

fuse. Don't set the temperature on your iron too high. I like to fuse from the interfacing side first, then

flip the piece over and iron from the fabric side. This way I can make sure there aren't any weird little

folds or wrinkles on either side. However, lightweight interfacing tends to be very sensitive to heat and

can ripple easily. In this case, I reverse my normal method, and fuse from the fabric side first - only

lightly pressing (if at all) from the interfacing side. Again, read and follow the manufacturer's directions
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that come with your interfacing for best results.

Bottom front panel

1. Take piece E (bag bottom front) and place it right side up on your work surface. Lay your zipperupside down (teeth facing down on the right side of the fabric). The edge of the zipper tape should be

even with the fabric's raw edge.

2. Lay piece I (lining bottom front), right side down, on top of piece E, sandwiching the zipper in betweenthe two pieces of fabric. As above, line up the top raw edge with the edge of the zipper tape. Pin all

three layers together, being careful to pin through just the top of the zipper. You need to be able to
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open and close the zipper; you can't do that if you've pinned through the whole thing.

3. Fold back the lining (piece I) to reveal the zipper, and zip it open about half way.


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4. Fold the lining back down into position and take the assembled layers to your machine. Attach yourzipper foot. Your needle should be in the left-most position.

5. Stitch a " seam. Go slowly. When you get to the middle, where you can start to feel you'reapproaching the zipper pull, stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric around

slightly and open up the layers so you can access the zipper. Be gentle! Carefully close the zipper.

Re-position your fabric and finish sewing to the end.


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6. When finished and open, your lining piece should be on one side of the zipper and your front piece onthe other.

7. Fold lining and front piece wrong sides together, so the zipper stands straight up, and press.


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Top front panel

1. Switch your machine from the zipper foot back to the regular all-purpose foot.2. Find piece C and piece D (the two pieces that make up the front top panel). Pin them, right sides

together, along one 2" edge.3. Stitch, using a " seam allowance, to create one finished top panel piece 8" x 2".

4.

You're now going to make another fabric sandwich' out of the top panel pieces.5. Place piece H on your work surface (the front top lining piece), right side facing up. Place the finished

front bottom panel (from step 7 in the section above) on top of piece H, right side facing also facing

up. Finally place, the stitched-together top panel (from step 3) as the final layer, wrong side facing up.

Make sure the accent square is to your left. Line up the top raw edges with the edge of the zipper

tape. Pin all three layers together, being careful to pin through just the top of the zipper. As before,

you need to be able to open and close the zipper and can't do that if you've pinned through the whole


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thing.

6. Fold up the top panel to reveal the zipper, and zip it open about half way.


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7. Fold the top panel back down into position and take the assembled layers to your machine. Re-attachyour zipper foot. Your needle should be in the left-most position.

8. Stitch a " seam. Go slowly. Just like you did before, when you get to the middle, where you can startto feel you're approaching the zipper pull, stop with your needle in the down position. Twist your fabric

around slightly and open up the layers so you can access the zipper. Be gentle! Carefully close the

zipper. Re-position your fabric and finish sewing to the end.

9. Fold lining and front panel wrong sides together, up and away from the zipper. Press.

10.Re-attach your regular sewing foot and top stitch 1/4" from each fabric edge on either side of thezipper.


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Strap and tab

1. Using your see-through ruler and fabric pencil, find and mark a center line through the middle of pieceA and piece B. It's easier to work from the wrong side so you can easily see your line on the white


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interfacing.

2. On both pieces, fold the sides in to meet in the middle. Press in place.


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3. Fold each piece in half again to end up with a " finished width. Press in place.

4. Edgestitch down the double-folded edge of both the strap and the tab to secure.


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5. Slip strap through swivel clip. Fold in half and pin raw edges together.

6. Stitch strap ends together close to the raw edge about " is good. Go back and forth on the seamline several times to make sure the seam is secure.

7. Flip strap right side out. The little seam you just made should now be pointing inwards.

8. Slide the swivel clip from the folded side to the seam side so the clip's ring is sitting right against theseam.
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9. Re-attach the zipper foot, and make a seam across the strap, getting as close to the clip as you can.You are 'locking' the swivel clip into place at the seam end. Again, go back and forth along the seam

line several times to make sure the seam is secure.

Positioning the strap tab

1. Take your " wide strap tab piece, fold it in half, and slip it through the D-ring, so the straight side ofthe ring sits against the fold.


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2. Lay your finished bag front right side up on your work surface, and find the center point of the toppanel's accent square.

3. Lay piece F (bag back piece) right side up, next to the front piece. Find the matching center point onthe top RIGHT side of piece F. This is the position for your strap tab.


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4. Align the raw edges and pin the tab in place. Then, hand baste or machine stitch the tab in place witha short line of stitching close to the raw edge.


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Finishing - the final sandwich

1. Lay the finished bag front on your work surface, right side facing up. The zipper should be open abouthalf way.

2. Lay the back panel (with the strap tab in place) on top of the front, right side down (the right sides ofthese first two layers are facing each other). The strap tab with its D-ring should be facing into the


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middle of the sandwich, and in position over the top panel's accent square.

3. Finally, lay back lining piece G on top, right side facing up. Match up the raw edges of all three layersso the bag is nice and square. Pin around all four sides.

4. Re-attach the regular sewing foot, and stitch a " seam around all four sides, pivoting with the needlein the down position at each corner. Stitch with the front panel side facing up so you can see the

zipper. GO SLOWLY. You are stitching though a lot of layers. When you stitch across the zipper on

each side, make sure your seam line is crossing just below the zipper stop (right side) and just above

the zipper teeth (left side). This will help insure your zipper opening is a perfect fit side to side.


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5. Trim the seam allowances close to your stitching line on all four sides, and clip all corners at adiagonal.

6. Turn the bag right side out through the zipper opening. Your strap tab should pop out from the leftseam. Use a blunt edged tool, like a large knitting needle, to poke out the corners so they are nice

and sharp. You can also carefully pull out the corners from the outside with a straight pin. Press well.


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7. Attach the swivel clip to the D-ring.


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Hints and Tips

You need power

As you've noticed, this project has a lot of layers: fabric, lining, interfacing, zipper ... one on top of the

other. You need a machine that can stitch through the thickness without choking. Our Signature

Sponsor here at Sew4Home is Janome, and one of the things that sold us on Janome quality was the

stitching power of their machines. Even during the last steps of this project, when we were sewing

through about ten layers up and over the strap tab ... there wasn't even a hiccup in the smooth,

running power. I don't say this to brag ... well, maybe just a little. I say it so you keep quality in mind

when you decide which projects to tackle. Just like you can't whip up a perfect meringue with a salad

fork, you can't expect to have success with an under-powered machine.

More about zippers

Now that you've had success with this zippered project, you can officially delete zips from your things-

I'm-terrified-of list, and move on to the next level. Take a look at our tutorial onBasic Zipper

Installation.
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summer wallet tutorial

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