summer in norwa saturday, march 1, 2014 … · 2016-06-14 · things to see and do despite its...

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Distributed with

The Daily Telegraph

Saturday, March 1, 2014 telegraph.co.uk/travel

SUMMER IN NORWAYYour 16-page guide to glorious landscapes, tours, activities and culture

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SATURDAY,MARCH1,2014 2

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The big question: why don’t more people go on holiday to Norway? After all, the expression “it has a lot to offer” merely tickles at the magnitude of its appeal.

Let’s have a look. Norway is sensationally, spectacularly (add any adjectives you like) beautiful. It’s green and clean.

Its transport network is not only excellent but hugely enjoyable to use. Standards of accommodation and cuisine are very high. There are a zillion fresh-air activities to try, plus plenty of outstanding cultural attractions.

Most Norwegians speak embarrassingly (for us Britons) good English. And the country is only two hours away.

Too cold? Nope. Norway from spring to autumn varies from mild to scorching. Too expensive? That may be a consideration, and we’ll come on to that; you may well be

surprised at the ways in which Norway can be explored on a reasonable budget.

I’ll give you an example of how easy Norway is to visit. You’ll have seen the main picture on the cover of this supplement; it may even have persuaded you to read this article. That’s Nærøyfjord, one of the narrowest fjords, hemmed in by mighty peaks that rise abruptly from the dark, still waters.

This natural marvel, a World Heritage Site of course, can be viewed up close on a magical, multi-faceted tour from Bergen or Oslo that includes a cruise, a journey on one of the world’s most famous mountain trains and stops at thundering waterfalls. You simply buy a ticket and turn up – everything is seamlessly organised.

Best bit? The round-trip from Bergen costs about £110, half-price for children, for one of the

most remarkable journeys you’ll ever make. There are several more tours like that, ranging from one to four days, each of them riotously scenic.

If you are stubbornly independent you can use the scenic train, bus and ferry routes to get around, or a hire a car and admire the super- smooth roads and the network of bridges and tunnels that help to tame the vertical landscape.

Many people come back from a Norwegian fjords cruise itching to return to discover more of the country. After all, a cruise can give you an excellent introduction to Norway but your time in each place will always be limited by the ship’s schedule.

Having said that, if you like the idea of exploring the coast and fjords by boat, check out Hurtigruten, the national coastal service, which offers a completely different type

An inspiring, welcoming wonderland It’s beautiful, close to home, boasts brilliant activities and a history that’s fun to discover. Norway should be top of any list, says Penny Cole

Oarsome: the fjords can be explored by small boat, taking you up close to natural features such as the Suitor waterfall in Geirangerfjord

of voyage with a far more intimate experience of Norway.

By using the regular low-cost flights from the UK to various Norwegian cities, you can devise your own itinerary.

If you prefer to let someone else make all the arrangements, there are high-quality specialist tour operators who know the country inside out.

So, apart from travelling around in a state of awe gazing at the mountains, fjords, glaciers, islands, waterfalls, gigantic rock walls, serene lakes, historic churches and cute villages, what else is there to do in Norway?

Those with a penchant for being outdoors, especially in the long daylight hours of the Norwegian summer, will suffer from child-in-a-sweetshop syndrome. This is prime hiking territory, with well-marked routes everywhere taking you to astonishing viewpoints, high

Page 4-5 The fjords

are the great natural

symbol of Norway,

unsurpassed in beauty

Page 6-7 Bergen is

just two hours away by

plane and is the gateway

to many spectacles

Page 8-9 A picture

gallery showcasing a

surprising diversity of

sights and attractions

Page 10-11 A voyage

with Hurtigruten will give

you an intimate overview

of the country

Page 12 The Oslo

region combines city

style with great days

in the countryside

Page 13 Trøndelag

is a region where a rich

history is entwined in the

city and landscapes

Page 14 Norway’s

national railway, NSB,

offers some fabulously

scenic journeys

Page 15 Advice, food

and accommodation

Did you know?

Throughout these

pages you’ll find

fascinating facts

about Norway,

its various regions

and the many special

things to see and do

Despite its latitude, Norway enjoys a

surprisingly balmy climate. Temperatures

in July and August can reach 25-30C,

while humidity remains low.The Daily TelegraphDistributed with

SUMMER IN NORWAYINTRODUCTION

SATURDAY, MARCH 1, 2014| |

3

Norwegian flies direct from

London Gatwick to Oslo, Ålesund,

Bergen, Stavanger, Trondheim

and Tromsø, and Oslo Sandefjord-

Torp; from Manchester to Oslo

and Bergen and from Edinburgh

to Oslo. There are onward flights

from the key cities to several

other places in Norway.

norwegian.com

SAS flies direct from London

Heathrow to Oslo and Stavanger

and from Manchester to Oslo and

Bergen. There are onward flights

from Oslo to most other

destinations in Norway.

flysas.co.uk

Widerøe flies direct from

Aberdeen to Stavanger and

Bergen and from Newcastle to

Stavanger. There are onward

flights to several other

destinations in Norway.

wideroe.no

British Airways flies direct from

London Heathrow to Oslo, Bergen

and Stavanger. ba.com

Ryanair flies direct

from London Stansted,

Edinburgh and Manchester

to Oslo Rygge; from

Stansted and Liverpool

to Oslo Sandjefjord-

Torp; and from

Stansted to

Haugesund.

ryanair.com

Hurtigruten sails

all year round from

Bergen to Kirkenes

and back, with a

selection of

itineraries from six

to 12 days, plus a

range of optional

activities and

excursions. There are

special charter flights in

summer and flight-inclusive

packages (including from regional

airports) are also available.

hurtigruten.co.uk; 020 3642 6411

For information on NSB rail

service, go to nsb.no/en

For more general information

on Norway and to book, go to

visitnorway.com

UK-based tour operators

to Norway include:

Sunvil: sunvil.co.uk;

020 8568 4499

Taber Holidays:

taberhols.co.uk;

01274 875199

Discover the World:

discover-the-world.co.uk/

norway; 01737 214251

Mighty Fine Company:

mightyfinecompany.com;

0845 072 0090

Simply Sweden:

simplysweden.co.uk;

0845 8900 300

Nordic Experience:

nordicexperience.co.uk;

01206 708888

Nordic

Experience:

nordicexperience.

co.uk; 01206

708888

Dovre

Railway

Bergen Railway

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Røros

Railway

Raume

Railway

Nordland

Railway

Oslo

Bergen

Ålesund

KristiansundTrondheim

Rørvik

Bodø

Svolvær

Tromsø

Hammerfest

Alta

Kirkenes

N O R W A Y

S W E D E N

F I N L A N D

Åndalsnes

Haugesund

Stavanger

Røros

Flam

There are mountain farms, Viking heritage, even superb sandy beaches

united Norway – is a good place to conduct an investigation, with a reconstructed Viking village nearby. The town and surroundings boast a selection of interesting museums.

Oslo, the capital, is a desirable city break destination even without the wealth of scenery on its doorstep.

In the city, superbly crafted museums vie for space with notable galleries and whether your interest is ships or sculpture, science or skiing, you’ll find it here. It is fine idea to spend a few nights in the city then take the short journey into the countryside for hiking, biking, exploring castles or relaxing beside a fjord or lake.

Bergen is a joy. Squashed between the sea and the mountains, even a couple of days will be rewarded with the wonderful Bryggen Hanseatic wharf, the Edvard Grieg Museum, the 13th-century

Rosenkrantz Tower, the atmospheric Fish Market, the Bergen Aquarium and the chance to ride up the signature Fløybanen for incredible views.

Ålesund is another fine maritime city; a terrible fire 110 years ago allowed it to be rebuilt as an art nouveau masterpiece; its handsome buildings can be viewed from street level, from a kayak paddling around the harbour and waterways, or from the top of adjacent Aksla mountain.

Moving a little north, Trondheim is an unsung gem, another with old merchants’ buildings hugging the river, an open-air folk museum, charming shops and cafés and the mighty Nidaros Cathedral, Norway’s National Sanctuary. All this and the fascinating bicycle lift (better experienced than explained).

Now back to the value for money angle. The best things

in Norway are free – the stupendous views, the fresh air, the hiking trails and on some days even the museums.

Many of the greatest assets of Norway can be reached by efficient and reasonably priced public transport. If you prefer to let someone else do the organising, the Fjord Tours collection is marvellous and won’t break the bank either.

The Fjord Pass gives generous discounts on a good range of hotels, activities, rental cars and boat trips, while several cities including Oslo and Bergen offer tourist cards that give money off attractions and transport.

Easy to reach, easy to get around, easy to fall in love with… Norway is Europe’s great natural treasure.

For more information and ideas on Norway, go to the official website visitnorway.com

alpine pastures and lofty waterfalls, or along sparkling rivers and the edge of fjords.

Often, by jumping on a local bus, you can avoid the toughest stretch and concentrate on the views and nature as you amble back down. With a guide, you can even take a walk on a glacier, a crumpled, creaking example of the power of nature.

Much of Norway may be too steep for the average cyclist, but the coast is fertile ground for a lazy day’s pedalling between villages and natural features, as are the flatter areas in the inviting Oslo region.

Kayaking is popular around the coastal islets, on lakes and in the fjords, with plenty of local operators. Sea fishing (including the fjords) is free and you may catch a fat cod, while for a small licence fee you can try for trout in the crystal mountain lake. Bird watching and mountaineering are other

great diversions, while anyone who has ever taken a photo will love the clear air, the colours and the amazing views.

There are mountain farms to visit, excellent aquariums, Viking heritage to explore and – if you have children in tow – superb sandy beaches and bays along parts of the coast.

So now we know that Norway is a giant outdoor playground, bursting with natural wonders, but what about history and culture? In this respect, 2014 is a good time to visit because it’s 200 years since Norway’s constitution was signed and various events will be staged around the country, especially on May 17, with many aimed at young people.

The local history is of course much older and it’s the Vikings who made their mark here more than 1,000 years ago.

Haugesund – where King Harald Hårfagre (Fairhair)

that’s just two hours away

The length of Norway’s coastline can be

stated as anything from 15,000 miles to

60,000 miles, depending on whether

you include all the islands.

May 17 is Norway’s National Day. Almost

every settlement will hold a celebration

this year to mark 200 years since the

constitution was signed.

Despite being one of the largest oil and gas

exporters, Norway generates 98.5 per cent

of its electricity by hydropower, more

than any other country.

Norway has 2,600 miles of railways,

including more than 700 tunnels and

3,000 bridges. Many routes offer fine

views of mountains and lakes.

S V A L B A R D

S P I T S B E R G E N

Longyearbyen

Barentsburg

0 80

miles

0 200

miles

Hurtigruten Route

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The Daily TelegraphDistributed with


Explore a

blue-ice glacier

Nigardsbreen is one

of the “arms” of the

mighty glacier

Jostedalsbreen.

Guided tours are

available daily in

the summer and

bookings can be

made at the the

Glacier Center in

Jostedalen.

Find Viking

history in

Haugesund

This city is the Home

of Viking Kings and

features

a statue of

Harald

Harfagre

(right), while

nearby at

Avaldsnes is a

recreation of a

Viking settlement

and a significant

church from the

same period.

Admire a

natural wonder

From Haugesund

you can cruise on

the Åkrafjord to

the the fantastic

Langfoss waterfall,

voted the world’s

most beautiful.

Hike to

Pulpit Rock

This spectacular

rock shelf towers

more than 2,000ft

above Lysefjord,

best accessed from

Stavanger. Take

the track from the

mountain lodge and

allow yourself four

or five hours.

Visit Stiftinga

Sunnmøre

Museum

This open-air

museum is about a

15 minute bus ride

from Ålesund and

showcases the

cultural history of

the area from the

Stone Age to

modern times

with more than

50 houses and

40 Viking boats.

by 29 smaller stones, one from each of the historic counties of Norway, pays a fitting tribute.

The Nordvegen History Centre at Avaldsnes on the island of Karmøy is a short bus ride from Haugesund. This museum chronicles everything there is to know about the local kings and princes and the Viking era.

A 10-minute walk away is St Olav’s Church, built by King Håkon Håkonsen around 1250. It has acted as both a place of worship and a landmark for seafarers in the strait of Karmsund for nearly 900 years.

Just beyond the church is the Viking Village, nestling in a wooded hollow, recreating what life would have been like for Viking families in years gone by. There are a number of traditional buildings such as round houses and a large boat shed with an ensemble of real-life characters.

Karmøy also boasts Vigsnes Mine Museum, which lays claim to being the mine from which the copper used for New York’s Statue of Liberty comes. You can marvel at the huge smelting pots.

At the southern tip of Karmøy is Skudeneshavn, a picturesque village known as the home of sailing clippers. There are many original timber buildings (and the scent of fresh waffles) among the narrow streets of the old town.

In the North Sea directly off Haugesund is Røvær, an unspoilt island reached by boat in less than half an hour. Virtually car-free and with a small selection of accommodation, it really is a place to get away from it all.

South of Haugesund is Stavanger. The early 18th-century cottages in the old town are delightful, while kids will love the chocolate factory and other attractions of the Kongeparken family park and the sandy beaches within easy reach.

Stavanger’s Museum of Archaeology has much insight into the Viking age, with a current Viking Voyagers exhibition including finds from a recently excavated burial site in Rogaland such as swords and gold buckles.

From Stavanger, it is easy to reach gorgeous Lysefjord and its distinctive Pulpit Rock (see panel).

In the northern county of Møre og Romsdal is the picture-perfect city of Ålesund. Backed by the majestic Sunnmøre Alps, this port was destroyed by fire in 1904. Its rebuilding coincided with an influx of European architects and tradesmen who designed and built an art nouveau treasure.

From a distance, it’s a colourful gem with spires and turrets, while at street level there are buildings with handsome facades covered in vines and even troll masks.

There are plenty of things to do here including fine dining, visiting the aquarium, strolling around the harbour or taking in one of its many museums. In the local area you could hire a boat or kayak, go fishing, take a trip on a Viking ship or experience the adrenalin-fuelled fun of a RIB boat safari.

If you feel fit, take the 418 steps up to the Aksla viewpoint. You’ll be rewarded by a stunning 360-degree panorama.

No trip to this part of Norway is complete without a cruise

Entranced by nature’s majesticshowpieceThe Vikings certainly inhabited aland fit for kings, says Gary King as he loses himself in lavish scenery

Fjord Norway has some of the most remarkable seascapes and landscapes anywhere on Earth. Mighty glaciers, deep blue fjords, roaring waterfalls and jagged peaks create an environment that never fails to inspire awe.

Spread among the natural wonders are cities such as Bergen, Ålesund, Haugesund and Stavanger, all with an inimitable flavour, offering visitors the chance to soak up their heritage while using them as a springboard to the great outdoors.

All four of these cities are accessible by a short flight from the UK, and an excellent public transport network, visiting one of the world’s greatest natural areas is extremely easy. And with a great-value Fjord Pass, there are generous discounts on accommodation, car rental, activities and attractions.

Haugesund is both a city and municipality in the southern county of Rogaland. Known as the Home of the Viking Kings, it oozes charm and Norse heritage. After all, Haugesund was the place in which Viking king Harald Hårfagre (Fair-Hair) united much of Norway as a kingdom at the battle of Hafrsfjord, south of the city. He was buried in Haugesund when he died.

To commemorate the battle, a national monument, the Haraldshaugen, was erected in 1872 by Crown Prince Oscar on a hilly mound by the coast. This 60ft granite obelisk surrounded

Half of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Routes,

are in Fjord Norway. Viewpoints and

stairways to natural wonders have

been created along the routes.

Haugesund is the town of festivals, from

jazz and movies to The World’s Longest

Herring Table, a 400-yard table serving

“free herring in all variants”.

According to the World Waterfall Database,

Norway has all 10 of Europe’s highest falls.

Top dog is the 2,837ft Vinnufossen near

the head of Sunndalsfjord.


5

High life: left, the Seven Sisters waterfall in Geirangerfjord; above, Pulpit Rock on Lysefjord (see panel)

Keen motorists will love this famous route, which is not as scary as it seems on first sight.

Roughly between Geiranger and Ålesund are the Sunnmøre Alps, offering the chance to find solitude among lofty peaks. Here you’ll find hiking, horse-riding and off-piste skiing into early summer. The wildlife-watching is good, too – the mountains are home to golden eagles, reindeer, otters and hares.

One of the best hikes is up Slogen. At 5,160ft straight up from the little-visited Hjørundfjord to the summit, it’s not for the inexperienced, but is rated as one of the country’s top walks. The round trip takes about nine hours, though there is a shorter version.

Fjord Norway has more than 16,500 miles of coastline with picturesque towns and villages dotted along its shores.

For ornithologists, this offers the chance to see an incredibly diverse ranges of species.

The island of Runde is about a two-hour drive from Ålesund via roads, bridges and a ferry. A boat also departs daily from the town’s harbour during the summer.

Runde has a human population of just 102 and a transient seabird population of more than 500,000 from February to August. Puffins are by the most plentiful, followed by black-legged kittiwakes, guillemots, razorbills and common shags. It is also home to about 20 white-tailed eagles.

There are various forms of accommodation on the island including a campsite, modern apartments and even a lighthouse with guest rooms.

For those who love visual drama, Fjord Norway offers everything you could want, coupled with vibrant cities, energetic cultural life and welcoming people.

For more on the fjord region, go to fjordnorway.comFull details of Fjord Tours can be found at fjordtours.comFor more on Norway in general, go to visitnorway.com

You could hire a kayak or experience the adrenalin- fuelled fun of a RIB safari

along the Unesco-protected Geirangerfjord. In a country full of spellbinding scenery, it still stands out; a nine-mile slice of water that runs between rock faces rising almost vertically out of the steely blue depths.

There’s a car ferry, operated by Fjord 1, that runs between the villages of Hellesylt and Geiranger from which you’ll see impressive waterfalls such as Bridal Veil and Seven Sisters.

A popular pastime is to take a drive, either in your own car or on the Hop-On tour bus, up the Eagle’s Road. Opened in 1955 to give the village a permanent link to the outside world, the road twists through 11 hairpins up to a height of 2,000ft at Korsmyra.

A lookout point has been built at the uppermost hairpin, known as The Eagle’s Bend, that offers breathtaking views back down into Geirangerfjord.

With your own vehicle, you may wish to drive north to Trollstigen, an incredible mountain road that switchbacks up a steep valley.

Ålesund owes its Art Nouveau architecture

to Kaiser Wilhelm II, who sponsored the

rebuilding of his favourite resort after

the huge fire in 1904.

Two of Norway’s most spectacular fjords,

Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, are Unesco

World Heritage sites. The latter is just

820ft wide at its narrowest.

The Jostedal Glacier is the largest in

continental Europe: it is 37 miles long,

up to 2,000ft thick and covers an area

of 188 square miles.

Tiny Fjærland, on Fjærlandfjord, is Norway’s

answer to Hay-on-Wye: its wooden

warehouses and cowsheds are turned

into second-hand bookshops.

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Gateway to a stunning array of experiencesNorway’s second city, Bergen, is chock-full of attractions and makes an ideal starting point for an explorationof the surrounding areas, says Gary King

Bergen is blessed with a rich heritage combined with a natural beauty that is the envy of the world. Founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre, it is a cosmopolitan centre of tourism with an endearing and timeless charm.

The city itself is a joy, but its position as the “gateway to the fjords” is an even more powerful lure, especially when you consider that Bergen is two hours or less from several UK airports. It is the perfect jumping-off point to a wide range of Norway’s most magnificent attractions.

The city’s most renowned place is its historic wharf, Bryggen, a Unesco World Heritage site that dates back to the late Middle Ages when a group of German traders, known as the Hanseatic League, monopolised business in the city from the 14th to 16th centuries.

It is made up of 61 wooden buildings, which were originally warehouses and offices, that have been reconstructed using traditional methods to overlook the city’s horseshoe harbour.

A short wander down the quay is the famous Fish Market. Traders have plied their wares here for hundreds of years and the sheer variety of fish on offer is astounding. There are also fruit, vegetable and flower stalls with many places to pick up souvenirs and gifts. Vendors will often provide tit-bits to taste or you can try some al fresco dining by sampling the boiled shrimps, crab claws and lobster.

It is almost obligatory for visitors to take the Fløibanen

funicular from the town centre to the top of the ridge behind on Mount Fløyen (see panel, right).

Norway’s most famous composer, Edvard Grieg, made Bergen his home from 1885 to his death in 1907. His house, Troldhaugen, is now a museum and features a villa, the hut where he worked on many compositions and the gravesite where he is laid to rest.

Next to the villa is Troldsalen, a concert hall that plays host to daily lunch concerts in summer. There are also occasional recitals in the villa using the great man’s Steinway grand piano, which has pride of place in the sitting room.

Bergen is also home to the largest collection of works outside of Oslo from another famous Norwegian, the painter Edvard Munch. As well as housing the Munch Collection, the town-centre museum features artefacts and art from ancient jewellery through to contemporary exhibitions. There are also works by Picasso, Paul Klee and Nikolai Astrup permanently on show.

Round the harbour past Bryggen is the medieval Bergenhus Fortress, one of Norway’s best castles. Locals come here to soak up the sun on the lawns but you can’t miss the museum and the Renaissance Rosenkrantz Tower, which can be climbed for a different perspective on the city.

The Maritime Museum, the Aquarium on the photogenic Nordnes peninsula and the Fantoft Stave Church a short bus-ride south should all be

on the list for visitors who are spending a few days in Bergen.

A top tip for anybody wanting to appreciate what the city has to offer is to purchase a Bergen Card, either online from the tourist board website or from the city’s tourist office.

With this you can travel free on Light Rail and buses in the city and the surrounding regions. There’s also free or discounted admission to museums, cultural and sightseeing attractions and restaurants. The cost for a 24-hour period is about £20 for adults and £7.50 for children.

Bergen is the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding landscape. The city is in the region of Hordaland, an area of outstanding natural beauty.

On its west perimeter is the ocean and to the east is Norway’s highest mountain plain; in between are the fjords and countryside that have been home to rural communities for hundreds of years.

Fjord Tours is a company that operates a variety of packages that can be tailored to suit individual requirements. Itineraries are designed to explore specific regions by bus, train and boat – often with a combination of all three. They are good value, last between one and several days on a hop-on, hop-off basis and are a superb way to see some of Norway’s great sights.

The Hardangerfjord in a nutshell tour offers a number of different excursions. One of them is circular trip from Bergen by

train to the country town of Voss, by bus to the orchard area of Ulvik, by boat to pretty Eidfjord and Norheimsund and then a scenic bus ride back to Bergen.

Then there’s Sognefjord in a nutshell, combining an express boat trip on the stunning Sognefjord – the largest fjord in Europe – with a trip on the spectacular Flåm Railway. The 14 miles of track that runs from the fjordside village of Flåm up to the mountain town of Myrdal took

City of colour: above right, the colourful Bryggen in Bergen; above, walking below the Briksdal glacier

Island-hop along the coast or travel deep

into the Sognefjord or Hardangerfjord

on modern express boats — you can

take a bicycle on board too.

Many of the old merchants’ buildings of

Bryggen, Bergen’s famous wharf with its

picture-perfect wooden houses, now

house boutiques and cafés.

Bergen is famed for its seafood and at

the popular Fish Market you can sample

local delicacies including raw oysters

and freshly boiled shrimps.


7

Ride the funicular

up Mount Fløyen

The view on the way

up from Bergen (right)

is stunning and once

at the top you can go

for a stroll on one of

the many woodland

trails or walk back

down to the city centre

through the narrow,

winding streets.

Boat cruise to

Rosendal Leaving

from Bergen, this

cruise travels through

the Hardangerfjord to

romantic Rosendal,

where you can enjoy

a tour of Scandinavia’s

smallest castle

followed by a two-

course lunch. More

information: rodne.no.

Relax in a

fjordside idyll

Balestrand — only four

hours from Bergen by

express boat (norled.no) is one of Norway’s

most popular retreats;

hardly surprising as

the artsy village enjoys

a magnificent setting

on the banks of

Sognefjord. The more

active can try fishing,

boating and walking.

Visit Ole Bull’s Villa

on Lysøen Island

Ole Bull was

a Norwegian violin

virtuoso who built

a beautiful summer

residence on Lysøen

Island, an hour by boat

from Bergen. It’s now a

splendid museum

dedicated to the

violinist, with miles of

paths to explore.

Hike to the

Troll’s Tongue

The Troltunga is a

gigantic piece of rock

that juts alarmingly out

of the mountainside

2,300ft above Lake

Ringedalsvatnet in

the Hardanger area

(opplevodda.com). It’s

a 15-mile round-trip

hike but the views are

well worth the effort.

20 years to build and is one of the steepest standard gauge lines in the world. From Myrdal, you take the train back to Bergen, an exceptionally beautiful route.

The most famous of the Fjord Tours is “Norway in a nutshell”, which as well as featuring the Flåm railway ride also includes Voss and the spectacularly situated hamlet of Gudvangen at the end of the narrow Nærøyfjord.

The beauty of these packages is that they offer the chance to split the itinerary by staying in hotels along the way. You can also add a variety of adventurous activities. For example, the Fjord Safari in Flåm involves buzzing up Nærøyfjord in a fast RIB boat. To get a little closer to nature, there are kayaking and hiking options in majestic Aurlandsfjord.

Whether you use organised excursions, public transport or rent a car, there are numerous impressive things to see and do within easy reach of Bergen and its international airport.

An hour and a half east by train is the town of Voss. An adventure sports centre, it has a lively atmosphere and is surrounded by mountains, forests, lakes and white-water rivers. The Hangur cable car transports passengers to a point 2,180ft above the town.

There’s also Bordal Gorge, which has been carved out of the bedrock over millions of years. Stroll along the path inside, listening to the water dashing below. A few miles out of town is the 500ft Tvindefossen waterfall.

Norway isn’t only famous for fjords, mountains and trolls – it’s home to impressive glaciers. Nigardsbreen is an arm attached

to the biggest glacier in continental Europe, the mighty Jostedalsbreen. It’s in the pristine valley of Jostedalen, between four and five hours from Bergen.

It’s possible to book hikes on the glacier itself at the visitor centre, an impressive building that also houses a fascinating exhibition about the glaciers. If you don’t fancy stepping on the ice, just witnessing the glacial tongue as it hangs down through the mountains is inspiring.

The Briksdal glacier not far from the village of Olden is another spur of Jostedalsbreen. It is a frozen tumble in a cleft that finishes in a blue-grey lake. There are various ways to witness this icy beast. Most people take the 45-minute path, but others ride on one of the “troll cars”.

In the Hardanger area, guided hikes on the Folgefonna glacier offer a thrilling day out.

Slightly less hair-raising is kayaking in Hardangerfjord from the town of Jondal, while those who prefer hiking should try the exceptional route in the Husedalen Valley, near the inland end of the fjord, which takes in four significant waterfalls.

Using Bergen as a gateway to the surrounding region combines a city that is steeped in culture with some of the most astonishing landscapes on the planet. And they are all linked with transport that makes travelling a pleasure.

For more on the city of Bergen, go to visitBergen.com. Details of Fjord Tours can be found at fjordtours.com. For more on Norway in general, go to visitnorway.com.

One of the Fjord Tours — “Sognefjord in a

nutshell” — takes you from Bergen and

combines a boat trip on Nærøyfjord

with a journey on the Flåm Railway.

Witnessing the glacial tongue as it hangs down between the mountains is inspiring

The Hardanger district is Norway’s orchard

and on the fruit and cider route in Ulvik

you can visit three fruit farms to taste

a variety of fresh produce.

The train on the Flåm railway usually stops

at the Kjosfossen waterfall to allow people

to witness the song and dance of a forest

lady who mysteriously appears.

The 127-mile Sognefjord is Europe’s

longest and deepest. Today it wows

tourists but for more than 1,000 years

it was a major trade route.

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SUMMER IN NORWAY | VISIONS The Daily Telegraph

Always worth a thousand words

Atlantic

Road

This is the bridge

Storseisundet, the

highlight of the

five-mile Atlantic

Road that is often

cited as one of the

best road trips in

the world. The

road, half an hour

from Kristiansund,

zig-zags across

small isles. During

storms, the waves

crash dramatically

on the rocks; on

sunny days it is an

outstanding route

for cyclists and

even walkers.

Kayak a fjord

The fjords

provide

mesmerising

places for outings

by kayak or other

small boats. The

Hardangerfjord is

especially good, as

is the Sognefjord

at Balestrand.

Boat hire is readily

available from

tourist centres.

Due to the height

of the peaks

surrounding most

fjords, the water is

often still. Boating

on larger lakes is

also popular.

Runde

Island

Regular boat trips

operate from

Ålesund to Runde

Island, a haven

for hundreds of

thousands of birds

including puffins

which come here

to nest in spring

and summer,

particularly among

the cliffs. They can

be viewed by boat

or on a hike, either

independently or

guided. Runde also

has charming

accommodation

for overnight stays.

Historic

wharf

Trondheim is a

delightful city to

wander around,

especially along

the River Nid

which is lined with

handsome wharf

buildings, many

of them from the

18th century.

Formerly used by

merchants, they

are now homes,

shops, offices and

cafés. The nearby

Old Town Bridge

over the river has

a distinctive pair

of wooden gates.

Stave church

Norway has a

total of 28

exquisite stave

churches such as

this fine example,

Borgund, at

Laerdal. Very few

of these wooden

buildings exist

outside the

country. The triple-

nave Borgund was

built around the

beginning of the

13th century and

is in remarkable

condition. The

staves refer to the

huge posts used in

construction.

Norway is a visual feast. This applies not only to

the incredible landscapes and seascapes, but to the

handsome architecture in both city and country, the

rainbow-infused spray of the waterfalls, the wildlife,

the many feats of engineering, the colourful festivals,

even the fresh food. Bring your camera; after your

exhilarating visit, it may need a rest as much as you.


9

VISIONS | SUMMER IN NORWAYThe Daily Telegraph

Troll Path

The most

famous of

Norway’s snaking

mountain passes,

Trollstigen (Troll

Path) rises to

2,790ft to the

north of Nordfjord.

The route has

several places to

stop and admire

the view, including

a 1,000ft cascade,

Stigfossen. The

road is one of nine

National Tourist

Routes within the

fjord area and is

exciting yet safe

for drivers.

Making a

splash

It’s almost as if the

country is leaking...

Norway boasts a

huge number of

waterfalls, many

of them huge such

as Feigumfossen,

left. It has a total

height of 720ft

and can be found

next to Lusterfjord

at the end of

Sognefjord. In

early summer, it is

powerful enough

to shake the

ground. Waterfalls

make excellent

‘targets’ for hikes.

Steam

power

The world’s oldest

paddle steamer

still operating on a

scheduled service

can be found on

Lake Mjøsa, an

hour or so north

of Oslo. Skibladner

was built in 1856

and has been

immaculately

preserved.

She provides a

fascinating way to

get between the

lakes villages and

towns such as

Hamar, Eidsvoll

and Lillehammer.

Viking

trails

The island of

Bukkøy, a short

way south of

Haugesund, is the

place to investigate

Norway’s Viking

history in a fun

and educational

way. Here is the

Viking Farm, a

reconstruction of

a 1,000-year-old

settlement that

depicts everyday

aspects of life

back then. The

13th-century St

Olav’s church is a

short walk away.

Edvard

Munch

Munch, the artist

best known for

The Scream, was

an expressionist

painter and

engraver. When

he died in 1944 he

left all the works in

his possession to

the city of Olso.

More than 1,000

paintings and a

huge number of

drawings can be

seen now in the

Munch Museum.

There is another

Munch collection

in Bergen.

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Sail closer to the soul of a country Hurtigruten’s routes show visitors so many different aspects of Norway – and the scenery is rarely less than spectacular, explains Sylvia Derrick

Some would argue that winter is the best time to see the Norwegian coast and fjords and that you can only get a measure of the melancholy splendour when they’re blanketed in snow. Maybe – but I’ll cast my vote for summer and the pleasure of seeing the landscape bathed in long hours of clear light.

There’s nothing quite like the classic Hurtigruten coastal voyage: a 12-day round-trip between Bergen, Norway’s second city, and Kirkenes, right up against the Russian border.

The modern ships have many of the facilities you would expect of a cruise liner, from cosy cabins and fine food to smart panoramic lounges in which to sit back and soak in the astonishing scenery. Yet I believe it’s the differences between a cruise liner and a Hurtigruten ship that are by far the biggest attraction.

The way in which the voyages bring you so much closer to the spirit and people of Norway, the different routes they take, the large number of ports they visit, the fact that the ships are an essential part of the community... it all adds up to a rewarding experience.

On both the northward and southward voyages, the ships call at 32 intermediate ports so you’ll visit each of them twice, usually once by day and once by night.

If you travel in the summer, the midnight sun means you’re guaranteed to see all the northernmost destinations by daylight. These include the Lofoten Islands, cited by many travellers as the most scenic part of the itinerary.

As the ship draws close to the archipelago, there’s the illusion that you’re sailing towards an impassable barrier as the constellation of isles seem to merge into one land mass (known as the Lofoten Wall). The views are just breathtaking as the ship threads around the larger islands, with their precipitous cliffs and lonely shore dwellings.

My personal highlight of the voyage is the Seven Sisters mountain range, a place steeped in folklore. The vast crag of Hestmannen is supposed to represent a troll prince turned to stone while pursuing a beautiful troll maiden. Her seven handmaidens became the peaks of the Seven Sisters, and Torghatten – a mountain pierced by a natural tunnel – is the hat of another troll that was pierced by one of Hestmannen’s arrows.

Many people think that Hurtigruten ships sail only along the coast and among the coastal islands, but they do in fact enter fjords – including some

rarely or never visited by cruise ships – so passengers can experience their magnificence at close quarters.

Although the sailing schedule runs with clockwork precision from Bergen to Kirkenes and back, time is always put aside for a detour into one of the country’s most beautiful inlets. The exact route changes with the seasons.

Southbound sailings in spring (April to late May) take in Lyngenfjord, a finger of water that stretches just over 50 miles into the wild interior of Troms county.

It grants access to a dramatic landscape of rugged cliffs and deep glacial canyons, while the waters of the fjord are known for their abundance of fish. Local fishermen often come on board and offer tastings of Lyngenfjord prawns, straight from the clear waters.

Between June and September, Hurtigruten ships are routed via Geirangerfjord, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Known as the “Pearl of the Western Fjords”, it contains several of the most celebrated beauty spots in the country, most notably the Seven Sisters, Friar and Bridal Veil waterfalls.

Early autumn (September and October) sees the ships visit Hjørundfjord. Cutting deep into the wooded mountains of the Sunnmøre Alps, it’s one of the less-visited of the fjords and characterised by swathes of green meadow, isolated highland farms and pretty rural hamlets.

Hurtigruten ships also make a side-trip into Trollfjord whenever conditions permit. One of my favourite parts of the voyage is the approach to the fjord mouth. At just 300ft in width it seems impossibly narrow, but the captain is able to navigate the vessel in with ease.

It’s not difficult to gauge why so many myths have grown up around this eerie gorge, scored into the sheer rock. The peak of Trolltindan is more than 3,000ft above sea level and I could well imagine the trolls of Norwegian legend peering down upon us from its heights.

On top of the natural grandeur, a Hurtigruten voyage offers plenty of opportunity to discover the human settlements of the Norwegian coast. The ports served by the ships range from tiny villages to handsome cities, and there’s often the option to explore ashore on your own or on an excursion organised by the ship’s specialist team.

Each larger port has its distinct attractions. The town of Ålesund is a treasury of Art Nouveau architecture

to rival any in Europe, with an excellent museum devoted to the style.

Trondheim is a delight, with the impressive Nidaros Cathedral and Stiftsgården Palace both playing a central role in Norway’s intricate history.

Marking the gateway to the Arctic, Tromsø has a proud heritage as a mining and hunting centre and though it’s now an attractive blend of old and modern, the location still lends it the feel of a frontier settlement.

More northerly still is Hammerfest, a quirky outpost that attracts herds of up to 3,000 reindeer in the warmer months.

Although most passengers take in the full route, it is sometimes possible to “jump ship” at various points for a stay on land, either returning home from that location or joining another ship to continue the journey.

It’s not just the route that makes this voyage so magical. For example, you’ll be part of a maritime tradition that stretches back well over a century. Since 1893, when Captain Richard With first began operating a regular steamer

service on his “express route” – hurtig ruten in Norwegian – the ships have provided an essential service for the coastal communities.

This means that on this voyage, you’ll become familiar with the authentic culture of Norway as well as its natural beauty. Locals use the ships rather as people would use a rail service in more landlocked nations and it’s a totally normal part of coastal life.

The on-board lounges are sociable places and I’ve learnt a huge amount from chatting to Norwegian travellers, including family groups on their way to see relatives and musicians bound for folk festivals in the north. The ships carry cargo, too, and it’s surprisingly compelling to go out on deck and watch the loading and unloading on the quayside below – everything from frozen fish to new cars.

Summer voyages make the most of the midnight sun in the north of the country. Activities on the open deck can occur in the evening or even late into the night, such as an “introduction”

There’s the illusion that you are sailing towards an inpenetrable barrier

In spring and summer, little Runde Island

is home to more than half a million seabirds

of at least 80 species, including

puffins, kittiwakes and razorbills.

Hurtigruten began daily departures from

Bergen to Kirkenes in 1936. The company

now sails every day except Christmas

Day, calling at 34 ports.

On the southbound voyage, ships visit the same

ports but at different times of day,

so those you passed in the night you

now see in daylight.The Daily TelegraphDistributed with



11

There is a wide choice of itineraries this

summer on the only cruise option that

gives you an intimate and comprehensive

experience of Norway — Hurtigruten.

Called Classic Voyages, they will show you

many different aspects of the country, both

from on board and with the imaginative

choice of optional excursions and activities.

Exciting RIB boat trips, eagle safaris, going

to the Russian border, guided walking tours,

kayaking, whale watching, standing at the

northernmost point in mainland Europe…

all these and many more are possible.

Each voyage includes comfortable

accommodation and either full or half board.

Certain departures are offered with special

charter flights from a number of UK airports.

Depending on departure, you can fly from

Gatwick, Stansted, Bournemouth, Bristol,

Leeds/Bradford, East Midlands, Glasgow or

Manchester. Or you can fly with a scheduled

airline from a number of airports: Heathrow,

Gatwick, Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham,

Bristol, Dublin, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds/

Bradford or Manchester.

A voyage-only option is always available,

which is ideal for those who would like to

spend a couple of nights in, say, Bergen

before or after their cruise.

You can join the ship for the complete

round-trip from Bergen right round to

Kirkenes on the Russian border and back

again. Or you can choose a shorter holiday.

CLASSIC ROUND TRIP

This 12-day journey from and back to Bergen

will ensure that you see everything along the

incredible coastline in daylight. You’ll sail

down the gorgeous Geirangerfjord, enter

the narrow Trollfjord, visit the lovely Lofoten

islands and have the chance to go to the

“Roof of Europe”, the North Cape.

With direct charter flights, from £1,313.

With scheduled flights, from £1,792. Voyage only from £1,462.

NORWEGIAN DISCOVERY

An 11-day journey that includes all but the

last part of the sector south. You’ll sail high

above the Arctic Circle, admiring all the sights

as in the Classic Round Trip above but leaving

the ship at the medieval city of Trondheim.

With scheduled flights, from £1,756.

Voyage only from £1,381.

VOYAGE NORTH

Taking seven days from Bergen to Kirkenes,

from where you fly home, this itinerary

includes the unsurpassed Geirangerfjord

and the chance to go up close to the mighty

Svartisen Glacier and visit the North Cape,

among many highlights.


Voyage only from £917.

VOYAGE SOUTH

A six-day holiday from Kirkenes to Bergen

ensures daylight viewing of the Lofotens, the

dramatic Seven Sisters coastal mountains

and Torghatten, the “mountain with a hole”,

with many additional natural features.


Voyage only from £794.

SPECIAL VIKING VOYAGE

To celebrate the British Museum’s major

Viking exhibition this year which opens this

month, Hurtigruten has created a Voyage

of the Vikings which will be accompanied by

the museum’s curator and old Norse expert

Gareth Williams. The 12-day round-trip

cruise includes a feast at the reconstructed

longhouse in the Lofoten Islands.


Call Hurtigruten on 020 3642 6411, visit

hurtigruten.co.uk or see your travel agent.

to a giant king crab (which may end up on the dinner table) or a market that sells specialities of the region.

Of course, you’ll need to sleep at some time, but if there’s a part of the trip you don’t want to miss, you can arrange for a wake-up call in your cabin. Alternatively, it’s possible to sleep out on deck under the languid light. The staff will provide everything you need to keep you cosy when you’re camping out.

Throughout the voyage, Hurtigruten’s optional excursions aim to give you an insight into the real Norway. During my journeys, I’ve found out about the coast’s wildlife, folklore, architectural heritage… everything that makes this part of Europe such a remarkable place.

I’ve heard Grieg’s greatest works performed in Tromsø’s futuristic Arctic Cathedral and gazed northward from the cliffs of the North Cape, knowing that only the pack ice of the Arctic lies beyond. I reserve a big soft spot for the time I felt the rush of turbulence as a sea eagle swooped for fish right beside my head in the Raftsund. The choice of

excursions is imaginative and many of the experiences will stay with you for life.

I’m determined to do the trip again so I can join the trip on a nimble RIB boat to Saltstraumen to witness the world’s strongest tidal current rushing in or out of a narrow channel.

From the beginning of June, a number of summer excursions will take particular advantage of the seemingly neverending hours of daylight.

On the southbound leg, you can take a nocturnal reindeer-spotting trip to Nordkyn, mainland Europe’s northernmost peninsula. With an expert guide, you’ll be issued with binoculars to spot the grazing herds. You’ll learn about the Sami people and their relationship with the reindeer before travelling on to a camp for amazing views over Kjøllefjord and your ship.

Reindeer aren’t the only creatures you can seek out at night. When the ship reaches Risøyhamn, there’s the chance to sign up for an excursion on MS Reine, a dedicated whale-watching vessel. You’ll be taken to the edge of the

continental shelf where sperm whales gather in great number. Sightings occur on 90 per cent of sailings, as the experienced crew can detect where the whales are using hydrophones.

This year will see brand-new excursions added to the summer portfolio. The possibilities will include an expedition to the Svartisen Glacier at night, mountain walking in Tromsø and fishing in the Lofotens.

The improvements will extend to the on-board experience, including the food. Excellent dining has always been part of a Hurtigruten cruise, but special summer menus are now being created that will make even better use of the Norwegian coast’s seasonal delicacies – from Tromsø lamb to king crab from the waters of the Barents Sea.

It’s yet another reason to follow the sun to the fjords this summer and find out how the world’s most beautiful voyage has become better than ever.

For further information, call 020 3642 6411 or visit hurtigruten.co.uk

Getting personal: above, negotiating Trollfjord; right, observing sea eagles; midnight sun at the North Cape; meet the Sami people

Hurtigruten’s MS Midnatsol combines a

modern design with a strong environmental

profile, with Norwegian materials used

extensively throughout its interior.

Saltstraumen has the world’s most powerful

tidal current, as 13 billion cubic feet of

water are forced in and out through a

passage 500ft wide and 100ft deep.

The Hurtigruten steamer Finnmarken,

built in 1956 and retired in 2002, is a prime

attraction at the Coastal Express

Museum at Stokmarknes.

At the Lofotr Viking Museum, the largest

Viking building ever found has been

recreated. The original chieftain’s house

was inhabited from AD 500 to 900.

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The Daily TelegraphDistributed withDistributed with

SUMMER IN NORWAYINTRODUCTIONSUMMER IN NORWAYINTRODUCTION

architecture and is one of the world’s only opera houses with a walkable roof. It is also known for its three gorgeous, acoustically tuned oak auditoriums, in which both the Norwegian Opera and the National Ballet perform.

The Opera House is located just across the fjord from the impressive castle-fortress known as Akershus Slott and Festning, built by King Hakon V in 1299 to protect the city from maritime raiders.

Oslo is also celebrating the bicentenary of the Norwegian constitution, with events including an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art and a military tattoo.

Historical attractions along the Oslofjord are plenty. A quick trip away is the island of Bygdøy and the world’s best preserved Viking ships, the oak Gokstad and Oseberg boats, dating from 800AD. The Viking Ship, Kon-Tiki and Norwegian Folk Museums all put on outstanding cultural exhibits throughout the year.

Stretching south of the capital, the 62-mile fjord is a great destination for day-tripping culture buffs.

The fjord’s western coast, for example, holds remains of a number of Viking settlements, while its eastern shore is lined with historical centres such as Halden’s Fredriksten Fortress and the former fishermen’s village of Drøbak.

With its idyllic whitewashed wooden houses, Drøbak is great for a quiet day out ambling along narrow lanes

and taking in cosy handicraft shops and small art galleries.

Set in the middle of the fjord and a few minutes’ ferry ride away from Drøbak is Oscarsborg Fortress, a bulwark that long defended the region and in summer becomes a backdrop for opera.

There’s more history north of Oslo in Hamar, where you will find the ruins of a 12th-century cathedral,

encased in a striking steel and glass “case”. It is now part of the admirable Hedmark Museum. The cathedral’s location at the highest point on a headland made it one of the region’s key landmarks, visible to sailors on nearby Lake Mjøsa, Norway’s largest lake — which is home to another great attraction, the historic Skibladner paddle steamer.

These and other attractions make Oslo perfect for a double-aspect holiday, with mountains, rushing rivers and lush fjordscapes just a short distance from the cosmopolitan capital.

To take part in exhilarating activities, take the family to Oslo Summerpark, which is only a 20-minute tram ride from the city. It features a downhill bike park, a climbing park and a thrilling range of ziplines.

Another example of how the Oslo Region has something for everyone.

For more information, go to visitoslo.com/en For more on Norway, go to visitnorway.com

Solving the debate of city or countryOslo is a trend-setter yet so close to nature, says Roger Norum

Norway’s first city is currently the best place in the Nordics for high-minded design and culture, stellar historical museums and ruins – and outstanding days out close to Mother Nature.

Osloværinger – Oslo’s residents – remain as proud as ever of what their city has to offer visitors.

The city has upped its ante in recent years with a slew of new restaurants, cultural attractions and activities. It manages easily to solve the city-break-versus-country-sojourn dilemma, since the capital is ideal for both lovers of the outdoors and urban-chic travellers.

Oslo’s churches, historical

Stretching south, the fjord is a great place for day trips

buildings and museums rival those of its Nordic brethren. The main street of Karl Johans gate terminates at the Stortinget, a neo-Romanesque parliament building from the mid-19th century. Just adjacent is the Domkirke, a 17th-century square cathedral with a green copper spire.

The nearby red-brick Rådhus is a twin-towered functionalist structure from the Thirties that holds the seat of municipal government but is better known for staging the annual Nobel Peace Prize ceremony, held each December 10, the anniversary of Alfred Nobel’s death.

Nearby is the Peace Centre, which has a grand hall dedicated to the past holders of the Prize, with multimedia presentations showcasing the fascinating lives of the laureates.

Just off Karl Johans gate is the Nationalgalleriet, with the country’s largest collection of art including Edvard Munch’s

The Scream. Munch has his own museum as well, where you’ll find most of the artist’s other famous (and lesser-known) works, including his sketches of the Madonna, Despair and The Kiss.

The museum is a short walk from the sprawling Frogner Park, best known for being home to 212 bronze, granite and wrought-iron obelisks and sculptures by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland.

His Vigelandsparken is crammed full of works that display in explicit detail hundreds of intertwined stone bodies playing, eating, sleeping and fighting.

Still the city’s hottest eye candy since it was built in 2008, Oslo’s graceful Italian marble waterfront Opera House comprises an angular white building that cleverly simulates an iceberg sloping into the fjord.

The sleek structure won the 2009 Mies van der Rohe award for contemporary

Ancient and modern: at Hamar, the remains of a cathedral have been encased in steel and glass

Oslo is one of Europe’s greenest capitals.

It is more than 50 per cent forest, has

343 lakes and nowhere is more than

15 minutes from wild nature.

At Oslo’s Kon-Tiki Museum, you can see

the original balsawood raft on which

Thor Heyerdahl and his crew bravely

crossed the Pacific in 1947.

Built in 1856, Skibladner is the world’s

oldest paddle-steamer in regular service.

She still plies Lake Mjøsa between

Lillehammer and Eidsvoll.


13


Resting between Norway’s fjorded south and its Arctic northern stretches is a fat chunk of country known as Trøndelag, one of the most unexplored regions.

History is never far away in Trøndelag, not least in the centre where the atmospheric waterside city of Trondheim has most of its 19th-century centre still intact.

The airy, open city is presided over by the striking Nidaros Cathedral, one of Scandinavia’s finest medieval structures. Ever since construction began in 1070, pilgrims have flocked here; it is Norway’s national shrine.

On display just next door, in the Archbishop’s Palace, are the country’s crown jewels: a sceptre, orb and anointing horn that date from the early 1800s.

A few minutes away, the vintage buildings at the Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum showcase the region’s rural and urban architectural traditions. The old neighbourhood of Bakklandet is enjoyable, with colourful wooden wharf buildings along the river Nidelven and charming small houses with cafés and restaurants.

Laid-back Trondheim is a great spot to relax before heading out into the countryside.

The sea has always been important for Norway and Norveg Coastal Museum at Rørvik, north along the coast, details life as a Norwegian through 10,000 years.

Wildly beautiful, the coast invites exploration. You could take a short trip to tiny Munkholmen island, a few minutes by boat from the city. An execution ground during Viking times, it now holds an old stone fortress.

The islands of Hitra and Frøya have a long tradition of fishing and salmon farming and here you’ll find some of the best spots in Europe for deep sea fishing. Or perhaps you would prefer to join a sea eagle safari, or visit the old lighthouses along the coast.

Hire a car and investigate the lush Inderøy peninsula along the Golden Route just north of Trondheim. Here are artisans and galleries, farmsteads and churches such as the Alstadhaug church in Skogn, built in the 1180s by the same masons who constructed Nidaros Cathedral.

North along the fjord at Tautra and Munkeby are two recently built cloisters, where the nuns sell some impressive local products such as soap, beer and cheese.

For Viking fans, Trøndelag is best known for the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030, a turning point in the Norway’s development as a nation. Here, Olav Haraldsson – later St Olav – was killed by an army of farmers. A descendant of Harald Hårfagre (Fair-Hair), Haraldsson was one of Norway’s most important kings and the founder of the Norwegian Church; he is buried in Nidaros.

The Stiklestad cultural centre commemorates his death through

Caught in the middle of rich historyTrøndelag, the central segment of Norway, is a picturesque region with splendid architecture and ‘living’ museums

an open-air amphitheatre, a Viking longhouse and museums that chronicle the events leading up to Olav’s demise; another stone church marks the spot where he was stabbed.

The pride of the site is the Stiklastadir (longhouse), a stately, 100ft building where the chieftain would hold meetings. In summer, there are exhibitions and Viking heritage theatre performances.

The pageant of St Olav, in July around the anniversary of the battle, is Scandinavia’s largest outdoor drama, recreating the events of the Viking Age. Another highlight is the Historical Market next to Nidaros Cathedral, a great place to pick up handicrafts.

Trøndelag is not all about re-enactments, of course. There is plenty to keep those with modern tastes happy too.

The Unesco copper mining settlement of Røros, near the Swedish border, is one example.

Renowned for being one of Europe’s oldest preserved wooden towns, the city has gained fame for dishing up superb, locally produced, award-winning food (Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant is a customer of Røros produce). Many local cafés serve cheeses, breads and other foods adorned with fresh berries and herbs. The local farmsteads are ideal for “epicurious” explorations.

For somewhere that combines nature, history and gastronomy, Trøndelag is well worth a visit.

ROGER NORUM

For more on Trøndelag, go to en.trondelag.comFor more on Norway, go to visitnorway.com

Striking: from top, Nidaros Cathedral; houses in Røros; Norveg Coastal Museum; a summer dairy farm

SUMMER IN NORWAYTRØNDELAG

Well-known national and international artists

come to Trondheim’s St Olav Festival in

July and August — it is Norway’s biggest

religious and cultural event.

Stiftsgården royal palace in Trondheim

dates back to the late 18th century. With

140 rooms, it’s one of the largest

wooden buildings in Europe.

The ancient 400-mile Pilgrim’s Route from

Oslo to Saint Olav’s shrine in Trondheim

was reopened in 1997 and is a peaceful

way to experience the landscape.

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SUMMER IN NORWAY | NSB RAILWAYS The Daily Telegraph

A moving panorama Travel on Norway’s railways for a fresh perspective, says, Anthony Lambert

Passengers often catch sight of the world’s oldest paddlesteamer still in service

Scenic route: glorious landscapes on a train journey through the Romsdalen Valley, above and below

Norway boasts some of the world’s most beautiful and fascinating railway journeys, operated with high levels of efficiency and comfort.

What’s more, the services are offered at reasonable prices (as little as about £25, even for long distances) because it is government policy to encourage greater use of trains.

On the longer-distance trains the experience is enhanced with buffet/restaurant cars serving such national dishes as roast reindeer in mushroom sauce with bacon or traditional meatballs with potatoes. Free Wi-Fi is available on most trains and some have children’s play areas.

As a measure of the challenges faced by Norway’s railway builders – who included Robert Stephenson and Thomas Brassey – three-quarters of the 2,500-mile network is curved. But all those engineering difficulties translate

into routes with spectacular views from the train window. I thought the Settle & Carlisle line was remote until I travelled on Norway’s main lines!

All of Norway’s passenger railways are operated by Norges Statsbaner (Norway State Railways), or NSB.

It took more than 80 years to build the only railway in Norway to penetrate the Arctic Circle – the 456-mile Nordlandsbanen between Trondheim and Bodø, which was opened in stages between 1882 and 1962.

It’s a journey full of variety. It begins with the train skirting the waters of Trondheimsfjord, the vista broken by the skeletal remains of long-abandoned wooden boats along the rocky foreshore. A rising shelf in the rocky hillside carries the railway inland to Hell (despite its name, the village is charming) and through farming country before returning to the sea at Røra.

The line weaves through forest-covered hills to reach Grong and the delightful valley of the River Namsen, where the rock cuttings alternate with tunnels and the clatter of girder bridge crossings.

The landscape becomes treeless as the train climbs the

lonely mountain area known as Saltfjellet where it crosses the Arctic Circle, marked by a pair of cairns, north of Bolna.

At the marble-panelled station of Fauske, the line turns west to the terminus at Bodø, where a Norwegian air force Spitfire can be seen in the outstanding Norwegian Aviation Museum, the town’s principal attraction. Visitors arriving by overnight train in summer won’t miss any of the scenery as Bodø has six weeks of midnight sun.

Few railways have been as extensively or creatively filmed as the Nordlandsbanen; a recent 10-hour-long documentary by the Norwegian Broadcasting Company was shot in all four seasons, minute-by-minute, but most might prefer to watch the one-hour version.

The Nordlandsbanen and the Raumabanen are reached by another NSB service, the Dovrebanen, linking Oslo with Trondheim through the stunning landscapes of Dovrefjell, a mountain area almost entirely within two national parks.

Trains for Trondheim leave the capital along the fast line to Gardermoen Airport and Eidsvoll, where it joins the River Vorma to reach Norway’s largest lake, Mjøsa. Passengers often catch sight of the lake’s jewel, the paddlesteamer Skibladner, which is the world’s oldest paddler still in timetabled service.

Halfway up the eastern shore is Hamar, home to the Norwegian Railway Museum and the Hedmark Museum, with 65 reconstructed historic buildings. At the northern end is the venue for the 1994 Winter Olympics, Lillehammer. Besides the Olympic Museum, the city has the vast Maihaugen Museum of almost 200 re-erected buildings, giving an insight into past urban and rural life.

Between May and late August, many passengers leave the train at Dombås for a trip on the Raumabanen, which drops more than 2,000ft in 70 miles to reach the sea at Åndalsnes. Descending at a fearsome gradient, the line clings to a shelf on the mountain,

with cliffs dropping sheer from the plateau. The emerald River Rauma cascades beside the track for much of the way and the train slows at the most scenic places.

An alternative way of reaching Trondheim from Oslo is to take the Rørosbanen between Hamar and Støren. The principal attraction on the 240-mile line is probably the small town of Røros; farming and mining co-existed within the town boundaries and the fine collection of 17th- and 18th-century buildings has earned it World Heritage Site status, complemented by a mining museum that takes visitors 1,500ft into the mountain of the Olavsgruva mine.

Norway’s second city, Bergen, is linked to the capital by the highest mainline railway in northern Europe, reaching a summit of 4,267ft while crossing the Hardangervidda plateau.

For more than 50 miles the railway is above the treeline and this sense of isolation made it an ideal location for filming the scenes depicting ice planet Hoth in Star Wars. Some passengers disembark at Norway’s highest station, Finse, to stay at the lonely adjacent hotel.

But far more passengers break the journey at Myrdal for the celebrated Flåm railway, which carries more than 600,000 passengers a year, most between May and mid-September.

The steepest standard-gauge railway in Europe, it drops 2,380ft in just 14 miles with fabulous views before arriving at the end of Aurlandsfjord, a branch of Norway’s longest fjord, Sognefjord. A photo-stop is usually made at a roaring waterfall, Kjosfossen, and it is possible to walk part of the way back down the valley and pick up the train at another station.

Combine such spectacular landscapes with the very comfortable trains and it is no wonder that more people are choosing to explore Norway by rail.

For more on Norway’s railways, go to nsb.no/en and for more on Norway in general, go to visitnorway.com


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although some are conveniently close to towns.

Perhaps the most emblematic of the country’s accommodation options are the rorbu and sjøhus, available for overnight and longer stays along various parts of the coast, especially in Northern Norway. Rorbuer (fishermen’s shacks) date back to the 12th century, when King Øystein had several built to provide shelter for visiting fishermen.

Most of the original rorbuer disappeared long ago but their modern brethren are comfy, cosy seashore cabins with wood-fired stoves, bunk beds and space for between four and six guests.

Similar in provenance are the sjøhus (“sea-houses”), the quayside halls where the catch was processed and workers slept. Many have been smartly converted into attractive apartments with self-catering facilities.

Friendly, family-run guest houses and B&Bs can be found in most towns and represent good value.

Food & drink

Norway’s cuisine, once thought of as consisting of staples such as dried mutton, potato dumplings and cabbage stew, has changed dramatically in recent years. Now there’s plenty going on in the country’s kitchens and restaurants, some of which offer real value for money.

Given so much coastline and so many lakes, it is little surprise that fish takes pride of place. Cod, haddock and halibut are harvested from

the clean sea waters, while salmon are caught in the rivers and trout and char in the lakes. Shrimps and prawns are very popular.

The country’s diverse geography provides habitats for a range of sheep, elk, reindeer and woodland fowl which graze on green, unpolluted grass, giving their meat a particularly rich, succulent taste.

Furthermore, the country’s temperate summers allow plants to ripen at a slower pace than elsewhere, infusing fruits and vegetables with a flavour that you can appreciate instantly.

Norway’s recent rediscovery of its culinary identity has inspired new foodie movements, celebrity chefs and a series of initiatives – such as Taste of the Coast – aimed at supporting local food producers, preserving local farming traditions and championing regional fresh ingredients.

In Oslo in particular, a host of new tastes and menus have spiced up Nordic cuisine.

This is largely thanks to the diversity of people – Asian, Indian and Middle Eastern – in the city and should you be on a budget or just fancy a tasty snack, there are plenty of interesting outlets.

As for drinking, Norway’s national spirit is aquavit, which can vary from firewater to very refined. Beer has been made here for many hundreds of years and the purity of Norway’s water gives it an especially refreshing, sparkling taste.

PRACTICALITIES | SUMMER IN NORWAYThe Daily Telegraph

Top tips for a great visit Getting around, where to stay, what to eat... here’s our handy guideTransport

Norway is easy to explore and certainly easy to enjoy.

Transport is clean, efficient, comprehensive and reliable, comprising a good network of trains, buses, car ferries and passenger express ferries.

In addition to helping you get around, public transport can also be a great way of sightseeing.

Trains and buses leave Oslo to reach local areas and those much further afield, while from Bergen there are boats to take you into the fjords as well as buses and trains.

The two cities are connected by a stunning tunnel-and-mountain rail adventure if you wish to visit both. These cities are also key departure points for the excellent Fjord Tours (see pages 4-5).

Norway’s cities offer various ways to save on transport. Pay upfront for an Oslo Pass, which gives you unlimited travel on public transport (as well as free admission to museums and other top sights), discounts on

sightseeing buses and boats and a rebate on car hire. Bergen has a very similar tourist card. They are well worth the initial outlay.

Another way to save money on car rental is to take public transport to your preferred location, then rent for a day or two rather than the whole trip.

Driving to the most spectacular spots in Norway can involve using mountain passes but even these roads are very well surfaced and usually have safety barriers.

Accommodation

When it comes to places to spend the night, Norway offers a wide range, from designer campsites and wood cabins (many of which have kitchenettes for self-catering) to stylish luxury hotels and landmark properties that date from the 19th century. There’s also De Historiske, a hotel and restaurant organisation (see panel below).

If you’re travelling around the west coast and fjords, it makes a lot of sense to pick

up a Fjord Pass, which gives visitors up to 50 per cent discount on selected hotels, guesthouses and cabins.

One option for outdoor lovers are mountain huts, or hytter, which are strategically positioned on major hiking routes. The south has many staffed lodges which provide meals and beds. Further north the huts are often unstaffed,

offering bedding and kitchen equipment, though you must bring your own food.

Many campsites have huts too, which can vary from simple cabins with a sink – you’ll often need to bring a sleeping bag – to spacious units with kitchens and en-suite bathrooms. Many sites are in idyllic rural locations with a cafe or restaurant,

Succulent: fresh seafood from pure waters is a Norwegian treat

Historic: the Hotel Union Øye has had many famous guests

If you’re seeking somewhere memorable to stay in Norway, or a special meal, then look no further than De Historiske (The Historic).

De Historiske is an organisation that brings together 50 hotels, 19 restaurants and even two wonderful historic ships, right across the country.

The hotels are all remarkable in some way, whether it is for a spectacular location, its heritage or the degree of luxury. Country manors, old coaching inns and architecturally significant hotels are all on the list.

Likewise, the restaurants have all been selected for being out of the ordinary for their location or history, but always for the quality of the cuisine, which features fresh regional ingredients.

For 2014, De Historiske has put together a selection of inspirational short breaks.

Sparkling Romance in the Heart of Fjord Norway starts

For quality hotels and restaurants, take a look at De Historiske

with a night at the Hotel Brosundet, beside a canal in Ålesund. This elegant hotel, with individually design rooms, boasts the fine-dining Maki restaurant.

The second night is spent south of the city at one of Norway’s best-loved hotels, the Union Øye at the end of Norangsfjord. This 1891 hotel has been described as a living museum and has played host to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Edvard Grieg as well as royalty.

Historical Adventures in Bergen is a two-night break in this fine maritime city at the Grand Terminus Hotel, a classic first-class establishment in a central

location. The break includes a delicious evening meal at a distinctive city restaurant and lunch at the Fløien Folkerestaurant at the top of the city’s mountain.

The Culinary Route – Flavours from Fjord to Coast is a short break close to Bergen that’s designed for food lovers. One night with dinner is spent at the fjordside Solstrand Hotel & Bad, built in 1896, and another at the 17th-century Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri, with a restaurant run by Norway’s Chef of the Year.

For details of these and other breaks, go to dehistoriske.com/roundtrips

Sleep and eat in fine style

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