studies on the improvement usage possibilities of textile and clothing

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Chapter1. Supply chain of the product

1.1Products characteristics(definition, evolution, classifications)

Textiles are indispensable part of human civilization. Textiles serve the individual, the

home and the country. We are all aware that the prime needs of man are food, clothing, shelter

and fuel.

The word Textile comes from the Latin word ‘Textilis’ and the French word “Texere”

pertaining to weaving or to woven-fabric.

It covers all the woven materials whether made of wool, cotton, silk, jute, rayon or other

manmade fibres. The variety of materials is simply tremendous.

Textiles are so much a part of our daily lives that it is not unusual that we take them for

granted. The fabrics that clothe us can be considered a part of us, just as the air we breathe and

the environment that surrounds us. In fact, textiles have created a stimulus for man’s

indigenousness and creativity since before the recorded history. The recorded oldest indication of

fibre usage comes with the discovery and spinning of flax and wool fabrics at excavation sites of

the Swiss lake inhabitants in the 6th and 7th century BC

The invention of sericulture began in China around 2640 B.C. and was introduced in

India in times as ancient as 400 AD. While reports of spinning of cotton date back to 3000 BC.

The cultivation date of Hemp, the oldest fibre plant that originated in south-east Asia, and spread

to China, dates back to 4500 BC.

Similarly, the art of spinning linen and weaving was introduced by Egyptians in around

3400 BC through their self developed tools and objects.

By the time civilization reached ancient Egypt, textiles had reached such an advanced

state of technology that the linen used to wrap mummies still remains preserved as textile

materials. Through the following centuries textiles played a major role in civilization and world

economics.



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The 18th and 19th centuries witnessed an era of industrial revolution with invention of

machines for processing various natural fibres. The result was a tremendous upsurge in fibre

production. The introduction of regenerated cellulosic fibres (fibres formed of cellulose material

that has been dissolved,purified, and extruded), such as rayon, followed by the invention of

completely synthetic fibres, such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, challenged the monopoly of natural

fibres for textile and industrial use.

A variety of synthetic fibres having specific desirable properties began to penetrate

anddominate markets previously monopolized by natural fibres. The first commercial production

started was of rayon fibres in America in 1910 and then further nylon fibre was introduced by the

Du-Pont company in the year 1939.

Since then multitude of fibres viz. Acetate, Acrylic, Polyester, Spandex, Polypropylene

etc. have been incubated from various sources and chemical integration through intensive

research and development. In this regard several Micro fibres are introduced. (A micro fibre is

the thinnest, finest of all manmade fibre, even finer than the most delicate silk, and amongst the

line is the most recent fibre introduced is Lyocell fibre in 1993.

Lyocell is a manmade environment friendly fibres produced from spieces of trees

specifically grown for this purpose.

Recognition of the competitive threat from synthetic fibres resulted in intensive research

directed towards the breeding of newer and better strains of natural-fibre sources with higher

yields. Improved production and processing methods, and modification of fibre yarn or fabric

properties and mechanization of textile machinery in this regard were also incorporated.

But, if we glance back through the pages of history, the mechanics of textiles have

undergone rapid and creative evolutions and inventions. The world economy is imprinted with

rich history of the textile industry and its evolution and progress since ages. Weaving is the oneof the oldest crafts that has survived till date, dated back to the Neolithic ages, almost 12,000

years back. It is true that man’s need for clothing since first signs of civilization and the spinning

of wool fibre into yarn and then weaving of cloth is the basic step that has led to development of

the new technology for the textile industry.



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Now, if we refer to this one of most basic but important process of spinning, it can be

divided into two primary stages. The fleece was opened to create a sliver of fibres which could

be drawn out to produce an fine thread.

It used to be then twisted into a yarn. It is known that people from early ages probably

twisted fibres from a lock of wool to form an extending length of yarn which would then be

wound up into a ball. The yarn was afterwards wrapped on to a stick and a flywheel added at the

lower end to produce a spindle. This led to the development of spinning wheel in India first and

then reached Europe during the late 14th century. This ancient spinning wheel was mechanized

over the years and lead to spinning process being carried out on a large scales at mill level

Thereafter, these yarns had to be assimilated together for construction of a fabric, the

process termed as weaving. To serve this purpose a equipment that is loom was evolved.

The first loom is believed to have been simple with a straight tree branch running parallel

to the ground. The lengthwise threads were hung from the branch, weighted at their lower ends

and the widthwise threads interlaced to create a rough textured cloth.

Classif ication of Fabrics:

Fabrics may be classified in different ways

Utility:

Apparel,

Household

Industrial, which is modified as:Apparel ,Outer wear,Inner wear, Seasonal wear

Staple wear, Fancy wear.

Household : Bedding, Home textiles.

Technical textiles Mobile textiles, Geo textiles, Construction textiles, Industrial textiles,

Medical textiles, Safety textiles, Smart or Intelligent textiles, High-altitude textiles,

Mountaineering textiles, Outer space textiles, Military textiles, Agriculture textiles,

Horticulture textiles, Sericulture textiles, Dairy textiles., Fishery textiles, etc.



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Method of manufacture as:

Woven Hand loom, Power loom, Khadi.

Knitted Hand knitted, Machine knitted, Wrap knits, Weft knits.

Embroidery Hand embroidery, Machine embroidery.

Lace Hand- made, Machine- made.

Braiding Personal wear, Industrial, Oceanic.

Crochet.

Tatting.

Knotting.

Netting.

Felting.

No-weaving, etc.

Materials used as:

o Natural,

o Man-made

o Blends.

4. Yarns used as: Filament (mono/multi), Spun (single/folded/cable/fancy).

5. Fabric condition as: Grey/Greige / Loomstate, Finished: Scoured, Bleached, Dyed,

Printed, Mercerized, Stentered, Calendered, Sanforized/Zero-Zero finished, Sized, Glazed,

Etched/Embossed, Felted, Raised, Sheared, Gassed/Singed, Fire-proofed, Schreinered, Soil-

resistant, Soil-release, Stain-resistant, Anti-crease, etc.

6. From Technologists viewpoint as: Structure Weave/Nature of interlacement,

Knitting/Nature of interloping, etc. Texture/Nature of construction.

7. From Engineers viewpoint as: Breadth or width, Length, Yarn size, Setting: Warp,

Weft, Weight, Fabric Thickness, Fabric face, Fabric cover.

8. From Standards viewpoint as: Construction, Weight, Strength, Condition,

Application or End use.



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1.2 Supply chain of the product and life cycle stages

( characteristics.production,technological process, environmental impact0

The textiles and clothing sectors can be seen as a supply chain consisting of a number of

discrete activities. Increasingly the supply chain from sourcing of raw materials via design and

production to distribution and marketing is being organized as an integrated production network

where the production is sliced into specialized activities and each activity is located where it can

contribute the most to the value of the end product.

When the location decision of each activity is being made, costs, quality, reliability of

delivery, access to quality inputs and transport and transaction costs are important variables.

The supply chain in the textile and clothing sector is illustrated by Figure 1. The dotted

lines represent the flow of information, while the solid lines represent the flow of goods. The

direction of the arrows indicates a demand-pull-driven system.

The information flow starts with the customer and forms the basis of what is being

produced and when. It is also worth noticing that information flows directly from the retailers to

the textile plants in many cases. The textile sector produces for the clothing sector and for

household use. In the former case there is direct communication between retailers and textile

mills when decisions are made on patterns, colours and material. In the second case textile mills

often deliver household appliances directly to the retailers.

Fig1.Supply chain in the textile and clothing sector



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At each link in the production chain to the left of the distribution centre in Figure 1, there

are usually several companies. In order to make goods, information and payments flow

smoothly, a number of logistics and business services are needed. Depending on the size and

development of the host economy, such services are provided by the lead firm in the supply

chain or independent service providers in the more advanced countries

Textile processes

The textile industry has one of the most complicated industrial chains in the

manufacturing industry. It is a fragmented and heterogeneous sector , with a demand mainly

driven by three dominant end-uses: clothing, home furnishing and industrial use. Characterizing

the textile manufacturing is complex because of the wide variety of substrates, processes,

machinery and components used, and finishing steps undertaken. Different types of fibers or

yarns, methods of fabric production, and finishing processes (preparation, printing, dyeing,

chemical/mechanical finishing, and coating), all interrelate in producing a finished fabric. When

one of these components is changed, the properties of the end product are affected. There are

several properties that can be used to define a fabric. Some examples of fabric properties include

weight, appearance, texture, strength, luster, flexibility, and affinity to dyestuff.

Figure 2 is a generalized flow diagram depicting the various textile processes that are

involved in converting raw materials in to a finished product. All of these processes do not occur

at a single facility, although there are some integrated plants that have several steps of the

process all in one plant. There are also several niche areas and specialized products that have

developed in the textile industry which may entail the use of special processing steps that are not

shown in Figure 2 .



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Fig 2 generalized flow diagram of the various textile processe



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Environmental impact

Cotton is the most pesticide intensive crop in the world: these pesticides injure and kill

many people every year. It also takes up a large proportion of agricultural land, much of which is

needed by local people to grow their own food. Herbicides, and also the chemical defoliants

which are sometimes used to aid mechanical cotton harvesting, add to the toll on both the

environment and human health. These chemicals typically remain in the fabric after finishing,

and are released during the lifetime of the garments. The development of genetically modified

cotton adds environmental problems at another level. Growing cotton uses 22.5 percent of all the

insecticides used globally. Growing enough cotton for one t-shirt requires 257 gallons of water.

On top of that, bleaching and then dyeing the resulting fabric creates toxins that flow into our

ecosystem.

First of all, the cotton must be grown; this entails vast amounts of chemical fertilizers and

pesticides that pollute and deplete the soil. Despite mecha¬nized harvesting, the cotton industry

is still largely dependent on cheap labour. The raw cotton is then dyed, meaning chemicals and

heavy metals with harmful effects on the envi¬ronment. Finally bands of cotton are assem¬bled

in factories to be sown into a T-shirt. From wastewater emissions to air pollution and energy

consumption, the textile industry weighs heavily on the environment.

Wool pollution: both agricultural and craft workers in the UK suffer from exposure to

organophosphate sheep dip problem. Getting from fibre to cloth - bleaching, dyeing, and

finishing - uses yet more energy and water, and causes yet more pollution.

Nylon and polyester - made from petrochemicals, these synthetics are also non-

biodegradable, and so they are inherently unsustainable on two counts. Nylon manufacture

creates nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas 310 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Making

polyester uses large amounts of water for cooling, along with lubricants which can become a

source of contamination. Both processes are also very energy-hungry.

Rayon (viscose), another artificial fibre, is made from wood pulp, which on the face of it

seems more sustainable. However, old growth forest is often cleared and/or subsistence farmers

are displaced to make way for pulpwood plantations. Often the tree planted is eucalyptus, which

draws up phenomenal amounts of water, causing problems in sensitive regions. To make rayon,



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the wood pulp is treated with hazardous chemicals such as caustic soda and sulphuric acid. The

use of rayon for clothing is contributing to the rapid depletion of the world's forests. Petroleum-

based products are detrimental to the environment on many levels.

Other materials used in clothing industry include:

PVC .Harmful solvents - used e.g. in glues and to stick plastic coatings to some

waterproof fabrics.

Harmful solvents used in glues, to stick plastic coating to some water proof fabrics.

Dyeing alone can account for most of the water used in producing a garment; unfixed dye

then often washes out of garments, and can end up colouring the rivers, as treatment plants fail to

remove them from the water. Dye fixatives - often heavy metals - also end up in sewers and then

rivers.

Different fibres have different impacts on the environment. MADE-BY, a European

NGO with a mission to make sustainable fashion common practice, published a study in which

the environmental impact of the production of several fibres is benchmarked. The table below

summarises the results of the study. The fibres under ‘Class A) are believed to be the most

environmentally friendly.

This classification is not only based on water use, but also on energy use, land use, the

use of non renewable resources and the use of hazardous chemicals

Table 1. Environmental Benchmark for Fibres



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Energy and Water Use Energy consumption and water usage in the textile industry are

extremely high and occur at each stage of the lifecycle of textiles – at the production stage, in

the use phase, where consumers use and care for textiles and garments and at the end stage,

which covers either disposal and/or re use of the materials.

In regards to energy use, different fibres will have varying energy impacts depending on

the raw materials used in their production.

Polyester is made from non-renewable petroleum and requires huge energy inputs to

produce the fibre. Over 70% of the total energy used for a polyester garment occurs at this

production phase. However, for cotton most of the energy impacts occur in the use phase, when

the consumer is washing, drying and ironing the garment.

The main effects of this energy use is the emission of greenhouse gases, which are

causing global warming. Like other industries, the textile and garment industry is beginning to

implement strategies to control or reduce their carbon emissions and tools such as Lifecycle

In regards to water use, the impacts include the over-use of water and the release of

chemical pollution in waste water. Again, the impacts vary according to the fibre type.

Cotton is one of the most water-intensive agricultural crops whereas bamboo, a

regenerated cellulose fibre, uses very little water to grow. In modern intensive cotton agriculture,

between 20, 000 – 40, 000 litres of water are used to grow each kilogram of cotton.

A lot of energy is used in the production process of textiles. Especially the wet processing

of textiles costs a lot of energy since most of the time the water has to be heated. Another

important source of energy use is the use of machinery in all other stages of the production chain.

There are several reasons why the reduction of energy use has a positive impact on the

environment. Nowadays, most energy still comes from fossil fuels (oil, gas and coal).

These are non-renewable resources which will become scarce in the long therm.

Furthermore, the use of fossil fuels has a negative impact on the environment because of

the emission of CO2 , a greenhouse gas which is generally believed to contribute to global

warming and climate change.



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Chapter 2. Consumption patterns

2.1 Interested parties ( identification,roles and responsabilities)

The apparel industry is the quintessential example of a buyer-driven production chain

marked by power asymmetries between the producers and global buyers of final apparel

products. The most valuable activities in the apparel value chain are not related to manufacturing

per se, but are found in the design, branding, and marketing of the products. These activities are

performed by lead firms, which are large global retailers and brand owners in the apparel

industry. In most cases, these lead firms outsource the manufacturing process to a global network

of suppliers. Apparel manufacturing is highly competitive and becoming more consolidated, with

increasing barriers to upgrading. Developing countries are in constant competition for foreign

investments and contracts with global brand owners, leaving many suppliers with little leverage

in the chain. The result is an unequal partition of the total value-added along the apparel

commodity chain in favor of lead firms.

Beginning in the 1970s, East Asian suppliers extended their upgrading opportunities in

the apparel value chain from simple assembly to a series of new roles that included OE

(fullpackage) production, ODM (design), and OBM (brand development) stages (Gereffi, 1999).

As intangible aspects of the value chain (such as marketing, brand development, and design)

have become more important for the profitability and power of lead firms, “tangibles”

(production and manufacturing) have increasingly become “commodities.” This has led to new

divisions of labor and hurdles if suppliers wish to enter these

The main stages of functional upgrading in the apparel value chain are described below

Assembly/CMT: A form of subcontracting in which garment sewing plants are

provided with imported inputs for assembly, most commonly in export processing

zones (EPZs). CMT stands for “cut, make and trim” or CM (cut and make) and is

a system whereby a manufacturer produces garments for a customer by cutting

fabric provided by the customer and sewing the cut fabric into garments in

accordance with the customer’s specifications. In general, companies operating on

a CMT basis do not become involved in the design of the garment, but are merely



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concerned with its manufacture. Under CMT, a factory is simply paid a

processing fee, not a price for the garment, and uses fabric sourced by, and owned

by, the buyer.

Original Equipment Manufacturing (OEM)/FOB/Package Contractor: A

business model that focuses on the manufacturing process. The contractor is

capable of sourcing and financing piece goods (fabric) and trim, and providing all

production services, finishing, and packaging for delivery to the retail outlet. In

the clothing industry, OEMs typically manufacture according to customer

specifications and design, and in many cases use raw materials specified by the

customer. Free on Board (FOB) is a common term used in industry to describe

this type of contract manufacturer. However, it is technically an international

trade term in which, for the quoted price, goods are delivered on-board a ship or

to another carrier at no cost to the buyer.

Original Design Manufacturing (ODM)/Full Package: A business model that

focuses on design rather than on branding or manufacturing. A full package

garment supplier carries out all steps involved in the production of a finished

garment — including design, fabric purchasing, cutting, sewing, trimming,

packaging, and distribution. Typically, a full package supplier will organize and

coordinate: the design of the product; the approval of samples; the selection, purchasing and production of materials; the completion of production; and, in

some cases, the delivery of the finished product to the final customer

Original Brand Manufacturing (OBM): A business model that focuses on

branding rather than on design or manufacturing; this is a form of upgrading to

move into the sale of own brand products. For many firms in developing

countries, this marks the beginning of brand development for products sold in the

home or neighboring countries.

In the apparel value chain, there are three main types of lead firms (retailers, brand

marketers, and brand manufacturers). These lead firms not only have significant market power

because of their size (reflected in sales), but they also have moved beyond production to different

combinations of high-value activities, including design, marketing, consumer services, and

logistics.



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2.2 Market description

The textile industry has played an important role in the development of human

civilization over several millennia. Coal, iron/steel and cotton were the principal materials upon

which the industrial revolution was based. Technological developments from the second part of

the eighteenth century onwards led to an exponential growth of cotton output, first starting in the

U.K., and later spreading to other European countries. The production of synthetic fibers that

started at the beginning of the twentieth century also grew exponentially

. Assuming that world population will grow to 10 billion in 2050, and further to 11.6

billion in 2150 when it is expected to plateau, total textile consumption is forecast to double,

even using the relatively conservative 1990’s figure of per capita annual average textile

consumption (8 kg/person).

The textile industry is traditionally regarded as a labor-intensive industry developed on

the basis of an abundant labor supply. The number of persons employed in the textile and

clothing industry was around 2.45 million in the European Union (EU) in 2006 (European

Commission, 2009a), around 500,000 in the U.S. in 2008 ,and about 8 million in China in 2005

China is the world’s top textile exporter with 40% of world textile and clothing exports

(European Commission, 2009b). The textile and clothing industry is the largest manufacturing

industry in China with about 24,000 enterprises. The value of its total output was 1,064 billion

Yuan in 2002 (US $129.8 billion2). China is the largest clothing producer in the world and has

the largest production capacity for textile products consisting of cotton, manmade fibers and silk

(Qiu, 2005). In 2008, the total export value of China’s textile industry was US $65.406 billion,

an increase of 16.6% compared to 2007. With the rising living standard of the Chinese people,

local demand for high quality textiles and apparel goods continues to increase

China is also the largest importer of textile machinery and Germany is the largest

exporter of textile machinery Figure 4 and Figure 5 show the leading exporters and importers of

textiles in 2003 with the amount of exports and imports in billion U.S. dollars. It should be noted

that the graphs are just for textiles and do not include clothing. As can be seen in the figures, EU,

China, and US are the top three textile importers and exporters.

The EU textile and clothing sector represents 29% of the world textile and clothing

exports, not including trade between EU Member countries, which places the EU second after



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China. In 2000, the European textile and clothing industry represented 3.4% of the EU

manufacturing industry’s turnover, 3.8% of the added value and 6.9% of the industrial

employment

Fig 4 .Leading Exporters of textile in 2003 ( WTO,2004)

Fig 5. Leading Importers of textile in 2003 ( WTO,2004)



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the lassification of consumer decision - making process. The former represents group

involvement while the latter denotes involvement of a single individual in the decision- making

process. Joint decision - making is different from individual decision - making not only in terms

of the unit but also in terms of the process

Many major consumer decisions are arrived at by consultation or give-and take among

group members .And there are several stages in the consumer decision-making process for

deriving the expected level of satisfaction.

Stages in Consumer Decision -Making Process

Every consumer decision-making process is the meridian of several phasic stages.

These stages are problem or need - recognition, information search, evaluation of al

tematives, purchase and post - purchase- evaluation . Both the personal and the non-personal

aspects of consumers may influence each stage in the decision- making process. I

Where there is a discrepancy between the desired condition and the actual condition, the

consumers locate a problem to be solved or a need to be satisfied.

Economic advancement, change in the stages of lifecycle, technological development

and socio-cultural environment are the major contributory factors that may arouse the urge for

solving a problem or satisfying a need. Besides, factors like market environment and promotion

campaigns of marketers are instrumental to accelerating the process of problem- solving or need

- satisfaction.

Awareness of a problem induces the consumers to search for information.

Product features, brand, seller and price are the major subjects, which are to be analysed

with the help of the information obtained from the various sources. Now-a-days, consumers

have been hugged by information explosion;particularly by the coverage given by the mass

media. Consumers use decision rules to cope with exposure to too much information or

information overload

If consumers are provided with too much information at a given point of time, it exceeds

their processing limils.



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After profiling the characteristic features of the target product1 brand and evaluating the

alternatives, the consumer proceeds to the actual buying process, by which prospective

consumers will become actual consumers. Perhaps consumers may go for a compromise, if the

products/ brands, which have secured the highest ratings are not available in the immediate

vicinity. Purchase is characterized by factors like store loyalty, brand affinity, timing and even

group-involvement. Consumers may also use a preference formation strategy that is other-

based-in which they allow another person to make the selection or purchase for them.

Post-purchase evaluation is the last phasic stage in the decision-making process. If the

product is an expensive one, the consumer will be keen in evaluating the product. If the

evaluation evokes a dissonance, it causes mental fatigue to the consumers. The discontented

consumers will give word - of-mouth that may discourage the other prospective buyers. Unless

precautionary measures are taken by the marketers against the injurious word - of - mouth of the

consumers, their existence will be at stake. Perhaps the most important thing for marketers to

understand about word -of -mouth is its huge pckential economic impact Understanding the

factors that can exert an influence on the behaviour of prospective consumers is the short-cut to

reach at this destination.

Factors Affecting Consumer Behaviour

Cultural Factors

The cultural setting of consumers is conspicuously integrated with their behavioural

aspects, because culture envisages distinctive modal patterns of behaviour, and the underlying

regulatory beliefs, norms and premises

. In general, the cultural background of consumers acts as the control surface with regard

to their consumption process. Choice of products1 brand, mode of buying, type of vendor

selected may be pointed out as the examples for the interplay between the culture and behaviourof consumers. In the textile market, culture is a vital factor that influences the fashion adoption.

Now-a-days, cultural tiends have tended to redefine the usage pattern of many a product,

ranging from consumer products to sptus - symbol products. In a country like India, cultural

norms exceedingly influenced by religious doctrines, have considerable implications on the

behavioural aspects of consumers.



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Social Factors

The social characteristics of consumers may be identified as a factor, which has an

enduring impact on consumer behaviour. There are three types of social character; tradition -

directed, inner - directed, and other - directed Nevertheless, the interaction between social factors

and consumer behaviour varies from social class to social class. The basic distinction between

the middle -class and the working class is that the latter advanced as a result of group activity

whereas those above them moved forward

by individual initiative .In the social set up, consumers get ample opportunities to

interact with others, and to be influenced by them. The group that exercises influence on

consumers is termed reference group in consumer behaviour science. Reference group is any

person or group of people that significantly influences an individuals behaviour

Personal Factors

There can be free interplay between the personal factms of consumers such as age or

lifecycle stage, occupation, economic situation, lifestyle, personality and self concept and their

behaviour.

The personal factors may influence many aspects of consumers like thinking, searching,

and processing of information, decision- making and judgement of products or services. For

instance, an educated consumer having a lucrative occupation will be more competent to take a

wise decision with regard to con- suming and using products or services.

Life Cycle Stage

The behaviour of consumers is subject to radical changes during the entire life span,

because they require different types of products at different stages of the life cycle. To quote an

example, the requirements of the elderly are diametrically opposite to those of the youngsters.

Over the years, the elderly segment of consumers has .been widened, as people are enjoying

longer and healthier lives Similarly, age or life cycle- stage causes drastic changes in the

formation of attitude aild perception. Now-a-days, psychological life cycle - stages have also

been identified by the marketers as an input while designing products as well as strategies for

different market segments.



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Occupation

The trenchant changes that have taken place in the market environment on the global

level are due to the changes in the occupational scene of the consumers.

A sizeable number of consumers have given up agriculture as their source of income,

and have occupationally migrated to other avenues, particularly white- collar jobs. This has

considerably improved the economic status of consumers; thereby spectacular changes have

been witnessed in the c2onsumption process and pattern. Exposure to information, preference

for brand, store and media habit are some of the important facets of changes that have been

brought about by the occupational mobility of consumers. Change in media habit tlue to the

new horizons of occupation is apparent from the enhancement in the number of readers of

dailies and magazines. Readership is the strongest among college graduates and among those in

executive-managerial professions

Psychological Factors

The four identifiable psychological factors that modulate the behaviour of consumers are

motivation, perception, learning and attitude.

Motivation

Human needs and motives are siamese twins. Hence, striking a precise difference

between the two concepts seems to be a hair-splitting task. As Bayton has observed, some

psychologists claim that words such as motives, needs, urges, wishes and drives should not be

used as synonyms; others are content to use them). In the absence of a comprehensive

conceptual framework, motivation can be regarded as a desire that springs from the "unsatisfied

needs" of human beings, which leads to a goal-setting. Motivation activates the behaviour of an

individual in a direction towards a typical activity. A motivated organism will engage in an

activity more vigorously and more effectively than an unmotivated one



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Organic cotton is much more environmentally friendly than the traditional variety as it

uses no pesticides, herbicides, or insecticides during the growing cycle. There are many growers

of this crop, and the number is steadily increasing.

Usually manufacturers using this plant to make textiles follow up the process by using

natural dyes to further reduce the amount of chemicals dumped into our ecosystem.

Even more promising is new cotton that is grown in the tradition of the Aztecs - coloured

cotton. Sally Fox, a biologist, spent ten years perfecting coloured cotton with long enough fibres

to be spun into thread. She managed to get it to grow naturally in shades of green and brown. It

has the added benefit of not fading (in colour) and in fact, it gets more vibrant with the first few

types of washing.

GEO -JUTE - The Eco-friendly Fiber

One of the oldest industries in India, Jute has traditionally been used for packaging.

However, its versatility is only coming to light now as the world looks on for natural options to

save the environment.

TENCEL

Tencel is a natural, man-made fiber. It has many of the qualities of synthetics, but is

made of natural cellulose found in wood pulp making it fully biodegradable. The pulp used to

produce Tencel is grown in tree farms, and the closed-loop production process recovers a solvent

used in the spinning process and is able to re-use 99% of it. The process also uses no chlorine for

bleaching, making the entire process relatively environmentally friendly. Products that can be

made from this material include all forms of clothing such as shirts, pants, skirts, and suits, as

well as sheets or any other cloth application where something other than cotton is desired. Tencel

can be blended with other materials to produce other effects, however depending on the materials

it is blended with it may or may not affect the biodegradability of the product. This is an

important product because traditionally synthetic clothing has been made from oil, which has

many downsides. Cellulose is a renewable resource, whereas a lack of oil will result in a lack of

synthetic clothing in addition to all of the fuel-related issues. Tencel could be an excellent

replacement for synthetic materials such as Rayon. The full product lifespan has been taken into



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own look. Digital textile printers, embroidery and laser cutting machines can design products

tailored to an individual’s specifications.

The manufacture of ‘halfway products’, f or example, kits that offer consumers the

opportunity to creatively assemble (and repair) the product could also increase attachment and

usage, as could clothing designed with detachable parts that can be customised by the consumer.

In addition, designers can co-create products with consumers to increase attachment to the

product, for example, through the internet, with consumers making the final design decisions.

Services that focus on consumer needs can also be used to extend the lifetime use of textiles and

clothing and postpone product replacement. For example, high-quality garments that can be used

in renting, leasing, lending or sharing schemes; and services that modify the garments can all be

offered. New business opportunities could be found in this switch to a services-orientated

economy; manufacturers can offer higher quality garments, increase customer satisfaction and

extend the use of the product.

Reuse is today mainly limited by economic conditions with low cost of virgin textile and

fast changing fashion. There are however opportunities in that second hand may be a fashion in

itself and that the informal second hand market is to a large extent working without any specific

policy instruments.

If the quality of new textiles is not high enough to enable a second hand use.

Much of the textiles is collected by charity organisations are not of a sufficient quality to

be sold and reused on the market. This is to some extent solved by exports to less demanding

markets outside the country but also can lead to incineration.

Social, institutional: Fast fashion makes “out of style” clothing hard to sell second hand.

Some clothing is fashion sensitive, which when fashion changes creates a large supply of this

type of clothing when at the same time there is little or no demand

Economical: Price of second hand textiles is not competitive compared to new textiles.

Handling costs (collection, sorting and selling) of reused textiles are in some countries

higher compared to material and productions costs in textile producing countries such as India

and China which makes second hand clothes comparably expensive.



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3.3 Post usage stage

Recycling is a non-existing market which is due to economical, technical and institutional

hindrances. Textiles are today a complex material which makes it hard to recycle but different

niche markets may provide a basis for an increased recycling. It must however be approached

with care since it if implemented improperly may replace reuse which is not recommended from

an environmental point of view

Economical: Current recycling technology produce low grade products with a low

value. Current recycling technologies are rather crude and produce low value products. Due to

cheap virgin production there is little incitement to try to compete with high end products.

Technical, economical: Textile waste is not a homogenous material. Textiles are not one

material but an infinite mix of different fibres not only in different garments but also in the

same fabric. The fibres and fabrics have of course different colours and are hard to dye if the

exact composition is not known.



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Conclusion

The textile and clothes industry is one of the most globally dispersed of all industries

across both developed and developing countries, with some garments companies havingtheir

goods produced simultaneously in as many as forty countries around the world

It is an organisationally complex industry, containing elements of both very new and very

old organizational practices, and changing constantly in its organisation and geography

The textile and clothes industry is currently unsustainable due to pollution, dwindling

natural resources, unjust labor conditions and wages, and insatiable consumption. Because many

facets within the textile and clothes industry are tied to infrastructure problems within other

major industries (i.e. transportation and manufacturing)

The textile industry is one of the most ecologically damaging industries in the world.

Petroleum-based products release dangerous emissions that wreak havoc on our environment,

and bleaching and dying create toxins that pollute our air and waterways. The growing trend

of eco-friendly fabrics, however, reduces the carbon footprint of both the textile industry and the

consumer.

With the eco-industry still in its infancy, the main responsibility at the moment lies with

clothes manufacturers and fashion designers, who need to start using sustainable materials and

processes.

There are a variety of materials considered "environmentally-friendly" for a variety of

reasons. First and foremost, the re-new ability of the product. Renewable resources are items that

can be replenished in a relatively short amount of time .

Energy and Water Use Energy consumption and water usage in the textile industry are

extremely high and occur at each stage of the lifecycle of textiles – at the production stage, in

the use phase, where consumers use and care for textiles and garments and at the end stage,

which covers either disposal and/or re use of the materials .The textile industry is expected to

play an ever-more-progressive role in developing environmentally friendly technologies and

processes. There is a lot of potential for savings. By saving energy and water, the textile industry

can not only save a lot of money, but also help to slow down climate change.

http://life.gaiam.com/gaiam/p/Organic-Clothing-Can-You-Read-Between-the-Lines-on-the-Tag.html

http://life.gaiam.com/gaiam/p/The-Fabric-of-Our-Lives.html

http://life.gaiam.com/gaiam/p/The-Fabric-of-Our-Lives.html

http://life.gaiam.com/gaiam/p/Organic-Clothing-Can-You-Read-Between-the-Lines-on-the-Tag.html



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o Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles

and clothing Kirsi Niinimäki Lotta Hassi Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011)

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Industry The Energy Conservation Center (ECC), Japan 1992 Selin Hanife

Eryuruk Greening of the Textile and Clothing Industry Department of Textile

Engineering, Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, Istanbul Technical

University, 2002

o Energy usage and cost in textile industry Harun Kemal Ozturk* Mechanical

Engineering Department, Engineering Faculty, Pamukkale University,

Muhendislik Fakultesi, 20070 C¸ amlık, Denizli, Turkey 2007

o Energy-Efficiency Improvement Opportunities for the Textile Industry Ali

Hasanbeigi China Energy Group Energy Analysis Department ,Environmental

Energy Technologies Division September 2010

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for Textile and Apparel Manufacturers April 2001

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Utilization Study: Parts 1 and 2." Apparel Manufacturer, May and August 1989.

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States." Tillman, J. W., A. Robertson, and E. L. George, Science Applications

International Corp.,

o U.S. EPA, DOC EPA-68-C8-0062; EPA-600/2-91/051, September 1991.



o Websites;

o http://www.epa.gov/waste/conserve/smm/wastewise/pubs/texfact.pdf

o http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/publications/assistance/sectors/noteboo

ks/textilsn.pdf

o http://www.wpi.edu/

o http://www.innovationintextiles.com/

http://www.epa.gov/waste/conserve/smm/wastewise/pubs/texfact.pdf


http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/publications/assistance/sectors/notebooks/textilsn.pdf





http://www.wpi.edu/

http://www.wpi.edu/

http://www.innovationintextiles.com/



http://www.wpi.edu/




studies on the improvement usage possibilities of textile and clothing

Documents