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artShop Tutorial: Prototype

Stretcher Bars - Intermediate This tutorial will walk through the process of creating intermediate level stretcher bars for canvases. Depending on your needs, there are simpler and more complex versions of stretcher bars you might wish to consider. As with all activities in the shop, YOU MUST COMPLETE TRAINING BEFORE USING ANY MACHINE DISCUSSED IN THIS TUTORIAL.

COMPLETED FRAME

(front view)

ELEMENTS OF COMPLETED

FRAME 4 Sides (A)

1 Full Crossbrace (B) 2 Half Crossbraces (C) 4 Corner Supports (D) 1 Central Support (E)

PPE

A 

D

C E

B

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Stretcher Bars - Intermediate

GET TRAINED AND PREPAREDYOU MUST BE TRAINED ON THE SHOP TOOLS BEFORE YOU BEGIN THIS PROJECT! It is also suggested that you complete training in stretcher bar construction. These demonstrations are offered regularly by the artShop. Take the artShop safety exam before using any tools in the shop.

GATHER YOUR TOOLS AND MATERIALS This tutorial is designed to use 1’’x2’’ furring strips for the 4 sides. All measurements in the tutorial are based on these dimensions. Check with the tech if you are using different wood. Materials: Furring strips long enough for sides, wood for cross-braces and supports. Tools: Ruler, Table Saw, Miter Saw, Corner Jig, Clamps, Nail Gun, and Wood Glue.

1: CUT FIRST GROOVE TABLE SAW: The first cut will be on the short side of your furring wood strip. Set the fence at 3/8". Make sure the blade is at 0 degrees. Raise the blade to cut at 3/8’’. Using push sticks, run your entire strip through the saw.

2: CUT SECOND GROOVE TABLE SAW: Set the fence to 1 1/4". Leave the blade at the set angle and height of 3/8". The goal is to cut out a second groove along the length of the wood creating a rabbet. Using push sticks, run your entire piece through the saw. Be careful, as the small strip of wood you cut away will be swinging around a bit.

3: CUT WEDGE TABLE SAW: Adjust the fence distance to 1 3/8". Line up the blade with the edge of your wood. Crank the blade until the angle is 15 degrees (it rotates counterclockwise). Raise the blade 1/8" higher than the board. Using push sticks, run the entire piece through the saw.

4: CUT LONG SIDES OF THE FRAME MITER SAW: Determine the length of your longest side. Set the stop block to that distance. Set the angle of the blade to 0 degrees. Place your furring strip in the miter saw and cut your first side. Repeat steps for the second long side of the frame.

PASS THESAFETYEXAM!

END

3/8”

3/8”

END

1 1/8”

END

15º

Length ofLong Side

BladeStop Block

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5: ANGLE THE LONG SIDES OF THE FRAME MITER SAW: Leave the stop block as is. Adjust the blade to a 45-degree angle toward the stop block. Place the strip along the fence with the flat side against the railing (rabbet towards you). Cut your first 45-degree. Flip the wood, keeping the flat side against the fence. Cut your second 45-degree. Repeat for second long side of frame.

6: CUT AND ANGLE SHORT SIDES OF THE FRAMEMITER SAW: Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the short sides of your stretcher bar frame. Remember to set stop block, cut at 0-degrees, angle the blade, cut 45-degrees on both ends with the flat side against the fence (rabbet toward you).

7: CUT STRIP FOR CORNER AND CENTRAL SUPPORTS TABLE SAW: Set the fence at 4 inches. Make sure the blade is at 0 degrees. Raise the blade to 3/8". Using push sticks if needed, run your flat piece of 1/4" thick piece of wood through the saw, creating a long strip.

8: CUT CORNER SUPPORTS MITER SAW: This step has five (5) cuts. Angle the blade to 45-degrees towards the stop block and cut once from end of the strip. You don't need this triangle piece. Flip the wood and line up with the blade. Make second cut (Your first corner support). Flip the wood and repeat the cut (Second corner brace). Make three more cuts this way. You will have four corner braces when finished with this zig-zag cut pattern.

9: ASSEMBLE FIRST CORNER - SIDES CORNER JIG: Collect one long side, one short side, and one corner support. Using the corner jig, apply glue to one end and butt the 45-degree corners against each other the rabbet side up. When aligned, clamp in place. With the pieces secure, use the nail gun shoot two nails into the corner on each side.

10: ASSEMBLE FIRST CORNER - SUPPORT CORNER JIG: Grab one corner support triangle and apply glue to the rabbet. Place the corner in the rabbet. Using the nail gun, shoot two nails into each side of the triangle. This action anchors the support to the two sides of the frame.

11: ASSEMBLE OTHER THREE CORNERS CORNER JIG: Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the other three corners of the frame. When complete you will have nailed the frame and all of the supports.

END

Cut 1Cut 2

RABBET& WEDGE

SIDE

OUTER SIDE

REPEAT STEPS 4 & 5

1

REPEAT STEPS 9 & 10

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ARE YOU DONE? Depending on the size of your frame, you may need crossbraces for support. If any frame side is over 24-inches, you will need to continue with the tutorial. If not, you are finished.

12: MEASURE AND CUT FULL CROSSBRACE MITER SAW: Take the wood that will become the cross-braces and place it in the rabbet on one of your short sides. Lay the wood down and mark your cross cut on the other side of the frame. Go to the miter saw and cut the wood (0-degree angle on the blade). This piece will be about 3/4" shorter than you short side.

13: RABBET FULL CROSSBRACE TABLE SAW: Place the cross-cut guide in position. Raise the blade to 3/8’’. Lay the crossbrace on the surface with the 1 1/2" side down. Line up the end of the wood with the blade so that it will remove 1/8" from the end. Using the cross-cut guide, pass the wood over the blade. Then slide the wood to the right (toward the fence) to remove another 1/8". Repeat for a third cut (3/8" total). Cut a rabbet in both ends of the full brace.

14: INSTALL FULL CROSSBRACE Mark the center point of the short side of the frame. Place the full crossbrace in that position. With your new rabbets, it should fit snugly into the frame. Once you have confirmed the fit, apply wood glue to the rabbets. Place the brace in position and use the nail gun to secure the brace with two nails at each end.

15: MEASURE AND CUT HALF CROSSBRACES MITER SAW: After the full crossbrace is secure, mark the center point of your full crossbrace and measure the lengths of your half crossbraces. The measurement should go from the edge of the full brace to the rabbet of the frame. Go to the miter saw and cut the wood (0 degree angle on the blade).

16: RABBET AND INSTALL HALF CROSSBRACES TABLE SAW: Using the cross-cut guide, cut rabbets in ONE side of each half crossbrace. Return to your frame and confirm your lengths were correct. If accurate, glue the rabbet and place a brace in position. Secure the brace in the rabbet with two nails. Secure the half-brace to the full-brace with two nails. Repeat for the other half-brace, creating a + shape.

17: CUT AND INSTALL CENTRAL SUPPORT MITER SAW: Angle the blade to 0-degrees. Cut a square piece from your strip of 1/4" support. Return to your frame. Flip the frame so that the front side facing up (wedges facing up). Apply wood glue to the intersection of the crossbraces. Place the central support over the intersection and secure with the nail gun.

Mark

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