stitch april 2012
DESCRIPTION
STITCH is a fashion and photography publication housed in Northwestern University. Since its creation in 2006, the student-run magazine distributes two issues per year to the student body, the Evanston community, and select stores in Chicago. It is wholly funded and produced by student efforts. For more information or inquiries regarding STITCH, email [email protected]TRANSCRIPT
STITCHNO 14APRIL 2011
Contents 5. LOOKS Dispatches from Paris and London, illustrated by Cristine Ryan
7. PLEASURES A few of STITCH’s favorite (dream) items
9. SPOTTED Northwestern street style, captured by our STREET TEAM
11. FEATURE “Fashion That Cares” by Delia Privitera
15 . COVER “The Gridiron Gang” by Jacqueline Andriakos Photographed by Luke Vogelzang 25. SHOOT “Tough as Nails” by Nick Arcos
33. SHOOT “His and Hers” by Justin Schuman
49. 2DO Music Review by MattGrosinger and TV Review by Corinne White
51. LAST WORD “Where Have All the Models Gone?” by Arabella Watters
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
“Fashion is connected to the reality in which we live. It’s not just about a logo or how short is a dress. We have to care about what’s going on around us.” –Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-chief of Italian Vogue
I look up to Franca Sozzani for more reasons other than the fact that her iPod is filled with Neil Young and the Stones. I read about Sozzani in a recent profile in the Wall Street Journal and was struck by her deter-mination to use her position as editor to raise awareness of important issues, like the lack of business interest in Africa. Sozzani, who has been editor for 24 years, constantly pushes for a realistic, substantive ap-proach to fashion. For example, she tweets ways to help victims of the Syrian uprising and gives lectures on the importance of increasing diver-sity in fashion. As the new editor of STITCH, I want to give you a magazine that, yes, is aesthetically pleasing and puts fashion in the context of a college stu-dent’s life, in a smart and useful way. But in the spirit of Sozzani, I want to prove that a fashion magazine can have a larger effect than just being a piece of eye candy. Fashion is a vital piece of the cultural pie, and we’re here to serve you a delicious and nutritious slice throughout your career here at Northwestern. That being said, I’m so proud to introduce our April issue, where staff writer Delia Privatera explores the realm of eco-friendly fashion. Regard-less of your opinion on global warming, we should all share a desire to treat our beautiful planet with love. What you wear, to be sure, is an im-portant part of that, and not often considered when creating a wardrobe. We share with you a list of companies that Mother Nature will thank you for wearing. As for me, I thank you for reading! Please email me at [email protected] with any comments or suggestions for future issues of STITCH.
--Corinne
3| STITCH
STITCHEDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Corinne White
CREATIVE DIRECTORDiane Tsai
MANAGING EDITORAlyssa Clough
SENIOR EDITORJacqueline Andriakos
PHOTOGRAPHY EDITORNick Arcos
DESIGN EDITORRosalind Mowitt
EDITOR-AT-LARGENadina Gerlach
CO-DIRECTORS OF PHOTO-SHOOTS Samantha Brody & Katie Cannady
PHOTO-SHOOTSCarly Shapiro
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Luke Vogelzang, Hillary Thorton, Christina Jameson, Justin
Schuman, Maggie Gorman, Christina Welch, Kate Villa, Tracy Lin, Ivonne Carla, Ben Breuner
ONLINE DESIGN EDITORJessica Kane
ASSISTANT EDITOR-PRINTKendra Vaculin
ASSISTANT EDITORS-ONLINESara Chernus & Brianna Keefe
DESIGN AND MULTIMEDIAAlexandra Sifferlin, Rebecca Lai, Meg Baglien, Sophie Jenkins,
Christine Ryan Michelle Chang, Peter Yoo, Eden Schoofs, Rachel Jones, Sungsub Billy Choo
STAFF WRITERS Kendra Vaculin, Matt Grosinger, Alexa Wong, Alia Wilhem, Arabella Watters, Beth Glaser, Cathaleen Qiao Chen, Delia Privitera, Emerly Soong, Erin Ku, Hannah Howard, Kalindi Shah, Rachel Nussbaum,
Sameeraa Pahwa, Victoria Castro, Xander Shepherd, Ian Hendrickson
COPY EDITINGCatherine Clark, Samantha Kaiser
DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONSJazmyn Tuberville
PUBLIC RELATIONSDanielle Pieere, Andy Garden, Tim Hughes, Rebecca Rodriquez
TREASURERImani Mixon
DIRECTOR OF FUNDRAISING AND ADVERTISINGClarke Humphrey
FUNDRAISINGNeelima Agrawal, Diana Tseng, Amy Beadle
ADVERTISINGLauren Schiappa, Rebecca Liron, Sonali Dasgupta, Clarke Humphrey
STITCH |4
LOOKS
5| STITCH
In his last show for the brand, Stefano Pilati made magic. The elegant looks that
characterize Yves Saint Laurent were given a more whimsical touch with the
addition of colored flowers and gold trim. A parade of varying textures and embel-
lishments, such as this looks heavy silk and leather, exhibit the brilliance that will soon
be missing from the label. After spring’s pastel flurry, Pilati reminded everyone the power of black and intense gold and jewel
tones. Needless to say, his successor will have very large shoes to fill.
In her fall collection for her namesake label, Mary Katrantzou managed to
make mixing saturated hues, house wares, and floral prints all make sense together. Continually topping herself each season, Katrantzou uses architectural aspects, like
this dress’ strong shoulders and swirl-ing skirt as a palette for shocking colors and life-like patterning. Not to shy away
from boldness, Katrantzou choose to pair the look with a sleek yet sloppy bun and matching yellow heels. While her looks
are wild and not for the faint of heart, Ka-trantzou never ceases to flatter a woman’s body, or to appeal to her inner eccentric.
YSL
Fall at McQueen was all about volume and embellishment, once again showing Sarah Burton’s ability to mix feminine
romanticism and artistic creativity. This ribcage-baring look reminds us how “leav-ing something to the imagination” can still be sexy and young. In an effort to reclaim the edge that the label is known for, Bur-ton accessorizes the look with voluminous
skirt-like armbands, towering abstract heels, and an opaque visor.
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Alexander McQueen
Mary Katrantzou
PLEASURES
7| STITCH
WES ANDERSON’S MOONRISE KINGDOM, IN THEATRES MAY 25
CHICAGO SPORTS COOKIES, PRICES VARY, SARAH’S PASTERIES ON OAK ST
DISNEY COUTURE SNOW WHITE POI-SON APPLE RING, $45, AMAZON.COM
MILK CHOCOLATE CARAMEL BRULEE BITES, $1.75, STARBUCKS
OLYMPIA LE-TAN BOOK CLUTCH, MARC JACOBS, $1500
STITCH |8
O.P.I NICKI MINAJ NAIL LACQUER,$12.93, AMAZON.COM
RINGSANDTINGS.COMONLINE FASHION AND JEWELRY STORE
YVES SAINT LAURENT GLOSSY STAIN,$32, SEPHORA.COM
BZR OMBRE TIGHTS IN COAL,$50, ETSY.COM
SIGG WATER BOTTLE,$21.99, MYSIG.COM
SPOTTED
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STITCH |10
CHECK OUT MORE STREET TEAM PHOTOS AT STITCH-
FASHION.COM
JEANS: GAPSHIRT: H&MJEAN JACKET: RALPH LAURENSHOES: KATE SPADEBAG: FRANCESCASCARF: “I HONESTLY HAVE NO IDEA WHERE IT’S FROM BUT I WANNA SAY URBAN.”
“I just got these red pants yesterday. I’ve want-ed them for a while and it seems like they’re pret-ty in right now. And I love leopard print.”
SENIOR • AMERICAN STUDIES MAJOR
PHARAH DAHYA
Fashion That CaresHow eco fashion, fair trade, and sustainable design are changing the fashion industry
by Delia Privitera13| STITCH
Fashion That CaresHow eco fashion, fair trade, and sustainable design are changing the fashion industry
by Delia Privitera STITCH |12
s slaves to a world of consumer-
themselves spiraling within a vicious cycle of buying more and more. With retail su-perpowers like H&M and Zara offering low-cost clothing inspired by coveted runway and haute couture trends, it’s easy to fall prey to a borderline shopaholic mindset.
update their wardrobe every season. What’s the shame in having ten pairs of dark wash skinny jeans in your closet if you can afford it?
To answer this question we must think of the wasteful consequences of our out of control shopping habits. According to sta-tistics from the Textile Exchange Sustain-able Apparel Workshop, textile waste oc-
in the U.S. and it takes approximately 700 gallons of freshwater to make a cotton t-shirt. With statistics such as these, many companies worldwide are embracing inno-vative textile materials, from organic cotton
-tempt to reduce their carbon footprint.
Unfortunately, sustainable design is not necessarily 100 percent environmentally friendly. “Eco fashion is part of sustainable fashion,” says Arti Sandhu, fashion design professor at Columbia College. “But, sus-tainable fashion is not always eco fashion.”
She believes that the difference lies in the concept of sustainable design. “It’s about creating or designing products and services that have a longer lifespan with re-sources that have more sustainability on a
long-term level”, says Sandhu. The Columbia College professor put
these ideas to test last year as a curate of the ZERØ Waste exhibition. ZERØ Waste focused on two popular approaches to sustainable design: recycled products and products that don’t create production waste.
“The exhibition featured both artists and designers,” said Sandhu. “The design-ers were thinking about products that are marketable for sale and are actually on the market, whereas artists were making work that was zero waste and provocative.”
The exhibition was a showcase of the alternatives to the current fast fashion sys-tem, which is based on instant purchases and immediate satisfaction, but not neces-sarily longevity. A lot of shoppers today ac-cept the fact that an item of clothing is not going to last, but it was not always like this.
Think back to your grandparents. How many suits does your grandpa own? How many times have you seen your Grandma ironing the same navy blue skirt?
“Before the 1950s,” says Sandhu, “peo-ple had few things, but they had good things.”
Our grandparents’ generation collected unique, well-made, and wonderfully craft-ed clothing, planning to wear it for dec-ades. People accommodated to changing trends by transforming clothes they already owned, according to Sandhu. Nowadays, the majority of people do not think of sus-tainability; quantity often prevails over quality and longevity.
Another important aspect of sustain-
ability is its social commitment. The fash-ion world is home to labor rights viola-tions and corporate governance lawsuits that deeply contrast the glamorously portrayed industry. Shoppers should be conscious of the manufacturing process
sweatshops, exploitation and miserable wages can be the apparel industry’s best-kept secrets. An alternative to this corrupt system is fair trade fashion. Fair trade is a form of trade that helps developing coun-
Holly Elzinga, manager of Anderson-ville Galleria and founder of Fair Earth, discovered the power of fair trade during a trip to Uganda, where she went to teach functional art skills at a local development organization.
Elzinga views her stay in Uganda as a tremendous learning experience, saying, “I saw how fair trade made a tangible dif-ference in women’s lives in Uganda.”
The experience pushed her to found Fair Earth, an eco friendly and socially conscious brand that produces acces-sories and jewelry, with a focus on using recycled materials. Fair Earth counts on East African artisans for the production of its merchandise.
“The bottom line is that fair trade puts people before numbers,” says Elz-
cheapest place to produce our product line. We are working to provide oppor-tunities for sustainable employment; the social element is more important.”
Social responsibility and sustainability come together in fair trade, a system that is gaining popularity among costumers. Elzinga says, “More and more people care about where they spend their money. Cus-tomers want to put their money towards something meaningful, or a cause that they believe in.”
As consumers, we are witnessing a rise of the conscious shopper and a transition to a system that promotes sustainable fashion, a change that Professor Sandhu hopes will become a global long-term cultural shift. It’s the advent of a new era where luxury fashion houses and retailers alike are committed to improving ethical responsibility. Will you take part in the movement?
A
BBrBB andsdsanrr yyouou’ll ll ffeel eelff good doobbuying from:m:frong uy
Stella McCartney’s’srtnMcCellaS collections often feaen ns ect -ture natural and organic materials.eriac morgal anatuure
Vivienne WestwooddwoWennVi debuted an accessoessn auteddd -ries collection in collaboration with the Ethical hiche witatillabn inects cFashion Africa Programme, a project thatatjecta pmmProgfricaionFaims to empower Kenyan artisans and bring ng nd bansn arKenweemimswealth to poor African communities.iesmun cAfripooalth
For Spring 20122ng 2r S H&MMH launched an Exclusive vexclud anuncMMGlamour Collection of red-carpet looks made madookrpeed-on oollemouGfrom sustainable materials. All year round ounyeas. AterblestaromH&M carries the sustainable Conscious ColCocioConae suies&M -lection.nle
ISSI’sI’s chic accessories are all made from fromaaresorc ac waste (http://www.issiworld.com).m).rld.ssiw/wwhttwa
John Patrick designed the “O by Organic” cololnic”y Oe “Onedk dePaJ --lection for forect Anthropologieolothr , a line made from froe m, a organic and recycled materialsaterclednd rani
PHOTO COUTT RTERSRR Y OFY ARTI SANDHURR
13| STITCH
WORK BY: DERICK MELANDER
s slaves to a world of consumer-
themselves spiraling within a vicious cycle of buying more and more. With retail su-perpowers like H&M and Zara offering low-cost clothing inspired by coveted runway and haute couture trends, it’s easy to fall prey to a borderline shopaholic mindset.
update their wardrobe every season. What’s the shame in having ten pairs of dark wash skinny jeans in your closet if you can afford it?
To answer this question we must think of the wasteful consequences of our out of control shopping habits. According to sta-tistics from the Textile Exchange Sustain-able Apparel Workshop, textile waste oc-
in the U.S. and it takes approximately 700 gallons of freshwater to make a cotton t-shirt. With statistics such as these, many companies worldwide are embracing inno-vative textile materials, from organic cotton
-tempt to reduce their carbon footprint.
Unfortunately, sustainable design is not necessarily 100 percent environmentally friendly. “Eco fashion is part of sustainable fashion,” says Arti Sandhu, fashion design professor at Columbia College. “But, sus-tainable fashion is not always eco fashion.”
She believes that the difference lies in the concept of sustainable design. “It’s about creating or designing products and services that have a longer lifespan with re-sources that have more sustainability on a
long-term level”, says Sandhu. The Columbia College professor put
these ideas to test last year as a curate of the ZERØ Waste exhibition. ZERØ Waste focused on two popular approaches to sustainable design: recycled products and products that don’t create production waste.
“The exhibition featured both artists and designers,” said Sandhu. “The design-ers were thinking about products that are marketable for sale and are actually on the market, whereas artists were making work that was zero waste and provocative.”
The exhibition was a showcase of the alternatives to the current fast fashion sys-tem, which is based on instant purchases and immediate satisfaction, but not neces-sarily longevity. A lot of shoppers today ac-cept the fact that an item of clothing is not going to last, but it was not always like this.
Think back to your grandparents. How many suits does your grandpa own? How many times have you seen your Grandma ironing the same navy blue skirt?
“Before the 1950s,” says Sandhu, “peo-ple had few things, but they had good things.”
Our grandparents’ generation collected unique, well-made, and wonderfully craft-ed clothing, planning to wear it for dec-ades. People accommodated to changing trends by transforming clothes they already owned, according to Sandhu. Nowadays, the majority of people do not think of sus-tainability; quantity often prevails over quality and longevity.
Another important aspect of sustain-
ability is its social commitment. The fash-ion world is home to labor rights viola-tions and corporate governance lawsuits that deeply contrast the glamorously portrayed industry. Shoppers should be conscious of the manufacturing process
sweatshops, exploitation and miserable wages can be the apparel industry’s best-kept secrets. An alternative to this corrupt system is fair trade fashion. Fair trade is a form of trade that helps developing coun-
Holly Elzinga, manager of Anderson-ville Galleria and founder of Fair Earth, discovered the power of fair trade during a trip to Uganda, where she went to teach functional art skills at a local development organization.
Elzinga views her stay in Uganda as a tremendous learning experience, saying, “I saw how fair trade made a tangible dif-ference in women’s lives in Uganda.”
The experience pushed her to found Fair Earth, an eco friendly and socially conscious brand that produces acces-sories and jewelry, with a focus on using recycled materials. Fair Earth counts on East African artisans for the production of its merchandise.
“The bottom line is that fair trade puts people before numbers,” says Elz-
cheapest place to produce our product line. We are working to provide oppor-tunities for sustainable employment; the social element is more important.”
Social responsibility and sustainability come together in fair trade, a system that is gaining popularity among costumers. Elzinga says, “More and more people care about where they spend their money. Cus-tomers want to put their money towards something meaningful, or a cause that they believe in.”
As consumers, we are witnessing a rise of the conscious shopper and a transition to a system that promotes sustainable fashion, a change that Professor Sandhu hopes will become a global long-term cultural shift. It’s the advent of a new era where luxury fashion houses and retailers alike are committed to improving ethical responsibility. Will you take part in the movement?
A
BBrBB andsdsanrr yyouou’ll ll ffeel eelff good doobbuying from:m:frong uy
Stella McCartney’s’srtnMcCellaS collections often feaen ns ect -ture natural and organic materials.eriac morgal anatuure
Vivienne WestwooddwoWennVi debuted an accessoessn auteddd -ries collection in collaboration with the Ethical hiche witatillabn inects cFashion Africa Programme, a project thatatjecta pmmProgfricaionFaims to empower Kenyan artisans and bring ng nd bansn arKenweemimswealth to poor African communities.iesmun cAfripooalth
For Spring 20122ng 2r S H&MMH launched an Exclusive vexclud anuncMMGlamour Collection of red-carpet looks made madookrpeed-on oollemouGfrom sustainable materials. All year round ounyeas. AterblestaromH&M carries the sustainable Conscious ColCocioConae suies&M -lection.nle
ISSI’sI’s chic accessories are all made from fromaaresorc ac waste (http://www.issiworld.com).m).rld.ssiw/wwhttwa
John Patrick designed the “O by Organic” cololnic”y Oe “Onedk dePaJ --lection for forect Anthropologieolothr , a line made from froe m, a organic and recycled materialsaterclednd rani
PHOTO COUTT RTERSRR Y OFY ARTI SANDHURR
STITCH |14
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It is impossible to conduct a boring interview when the word ‘swag’ even enters conversation. From the sec-ond that Kain walked into Norris, it was clear who he was even without the quick photo stalking that I did on the Northwestern athletics page. He did in fact have swag, an unex-pected ease as he met a stranger armed with questions, ready to dis-sect his personal life. Wearing sweat-pants, a flat-brimmed Northwest-ern Wildcats hat and Timberland boots, Northwestern quarterback Kain Colter slipped out of athlete mode and eased into 52 minutes of conversation surrounding a man’s nightmares: girls, gossip, and glam.Kain greeted me in the lobby of Nor-ris with a firm, purposeful handshake and one of those it’s-really-a-pleasure smiles that almost makes you forget if you asked them to meet you for the interview or if it was the other way around. As we walked down to the bottom level of Norris to find a quiet interview-friendly table, we eased into small talk about football and midterms. He seemed appropriately rehearsed with answers regarding his post-college plans, pressures of football, nerves during the big games of the season. But what was still puzzling was why his email wasn’t “Kain” at all, but instead Theodis.
“I’ve just gone by Kain my whole life. But if I think about it I ac-tually respond to either one. I think Theodis is a nice and strong name too,” he said with a smile. Despite the big name revelation, Theodis Kain Colter remained a relative stranger, so we began with the typical academic demographics: 19-year-old sophomore, psychology and pre-med student. Growing up in Denver, Colo. surrounded by an ath-letic family (a University of Colorado football national champion dad and a UFC football star uncle), it was in-evitable that Kain would head down a sports road in their footsteps. Al-though he was surrounded by this fa-milial love for the game, he never felt pressured to relive family glory days.“My parents did a good job of nev-er pressuring me to do anything I didn’t want to but I realized I really did love it,” said Kain. “I’m also just a really competitive person and no matter what it was I always wanted to go out there and perform well.”After agreeing to participate in a fashion magazine spread, it was only a matter of time until the STITCH team would see whether or not this football star could bring that same competitive A-game attitude to a photo shoot set. Aside from the perks of pretty female models,
19| STITCH
cameras, and the familiar back-drop of Ryan Field, Kain did admit to having some long-standing per-sonal interest in this type of feature.“I usually only get asked to do in-terviews for sports things, so I got excited to see the email from the fashion magazine,” he said. I waited out his sheepish grin for what I really wanted to hear, “And O.K, I have thought about model-ing. It can’t be too difficult, right?”It was endearing to watch as athlete stereotypes melted away, reveal-ing a reasonably fashion-fueled man under a façade of purple jerseys and game-day suits. I learned that a typical Kain-night-out consisted of rendezvous’ with team members at David Nwabuisi’s apartment, one of Kain’s fellow NU footballers. He clarified that his winter attire fre-quently consists of jeans, Timber-lands, a neat button-down, and his pea coat and scarf to “keep it classy.” One had to wonder, however, if there was any behind-the-scenes fashioni-sta planting trends and labels into this quarterback’s closet. Regardless of his off-the-market status – with a long-distance girlfriend, a love interest originally from his home-town – he was more than willing to spill his personal dating criteria.“I don’t discriminate,” he assured laughingly, claiming to have dated just about every size, color, and shape out there. “First off, she’s got to be intelligent. I like smart girls.”Luckily, after a shoulder injury re-sulting in a decision to decommit from Stanford and switch to North-western, he certainly didn’t leave be-hind that perk of an intelligent dating pool. Not only has the academic rigor of NU showed him the importance of brains over beauty, Kain continued to
explain the importance of a woman having that same internal drive that pushes him both on and off the field.“She needs to be independent. Don’t get me wrong; I like a girl holding my arm, showing that she likes to be with me. But I really like when a girl has her own ambitions. She wants something out of life.”At this point hearts are both melting and shattering as this macho ath-lete admits to valuing his indisput-ably meaningful relationship with his chick, who also happens to be a fashion-aspirant at Loyola Chicago to whom Kain gives credit for some of his better-dressed days. But right be-fore walking away under the impres-sion that there is in fact a holy grail of a man out there solely attracted to personality he was sure to add the disclaimer, “Number three, she’s got to look good. I’m not shallow or anything but hey, that really makes a relationship whole, for both people.”O.K. so we forgive him; and in all hon-esty girls are probably still wondering
STITCH |20
what sparks Mr. Colter’s attention so I asked and he answered: sundresses. “I might be athletic but I really do like a girly girl,” he said. “I’m not really all that picky, though. I mean if she looks good, she looks good. Am I right?”After an hour of entertaining conver-sation learning both the ins and outs of Kain, it was apparent that the guy had it all: A great athletic career, a steady girlfriend, a supportive fam-ily, academic drive. But even this Big Ten name could admit to the under-standable apprehensions of what is to come, both in his pending college years and post-college endeavors. With the obvious dream of playing in the NFL, Kain spoke very honestly about his coming to terms with the fact that playing for the big leagues is a long shot for any college athlete.“If it isn’t football it would prob-ably be medical school. But can you imagine, eight more years of schooling?” he laughed.As only a second-year student at NU, Kain will certainly become a more Evanston-household name as he climbs the football ranks and
continues to excel on the field. With the pressures of being a young and successful Big Ten athlete, Kain has learned ways to cope with the exter-nal pressures of being a known play-er. Through all of the sports haze and publicity that constantly surrounds him, he still managed to radiate a humble self-assurance, while remain-ing completely raw and honest about the non-sports world in which he lives.“Everyone here at Northwestern has these unbelievable abilities and tal-ents that God has given them and mine right now just happens to be football. There are people here go-ing on to be doctors, lawyers, ac-tors,” he said. “Who am I to ever say that what I do is any better or more worthwhile than what these people accomplish everyday around me?”It was time to let this Levi-501’s wearing, swag-filled man get back to the rest of his afternoon. How-ever, this whole notion of swag stuck with me and I couldn’t help but ask, what does that even mean?“Swag is confidence,” he clarified. “I always let it come out because confi-dence is contagious to other people. Wherever I go, whatever I put on, I make sure I’m still wearing swag.”Kain’s confidence was in fact conta-gious. It was admirable to watch an infamous campus character emotion-ally disrobe and let someone into his world, beyond the automatic and rehearsed world of sports journal-ism. With his confidence and drive, hopes are high for this Wildcat. “I can have confidence and contin-ue to be competitive but in the end things will work out the way they are supposed to,” he said. “I always remind myself, whatever God wills for us on that day, just let it happen.”
-Jacqueline Andriakos
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25| STITCH
TOUGHAS NAILS
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designs by: Catherine Moglia and Taylor Thomasmodels: Kaitlin Miller, Elizabeth Male, Laura Prullage, Megan Jane Bradley, and Rachel Jonesphotographed by: Nick Arcos
designs by: Catherine Moglia and Taylor Thomasmodels: Kaitlin Miller, Elizabeth Male, Laura Prullage, Megan Jane Bradley, and Rachel Jonesphotographed by: Nick Arcos
HERSHIS
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HIS
&HERSHIS
Girls can (and should) borrow from the boys. After all, isn’t a good mix of masculine and feminine what makes the
world go ‘round? Dress the part.
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skirt: Beyond Vintageshirt: Rag&Bone KNIT
vest: model’s own (Isabel Marant)
pants: model’s own (JCrew)shirt: model’s own (Isabel Marant)shoes: model’s own (Miu Miu)
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pants: Funktionalbra: Cameoblazer: model’s own (JCrew)
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skirt: Cut25shirt: Whetherly
shoes: model’s own (Christian Louboutin)
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shirt: model’s ownpants: McQ by Alexander McQueen
cream skirt: Beyond Vintageshirt: Rag&Bone KNIT
shirt: model’s own (Polo)pants: McQ by Alexander
McQueen
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dress: model’s own (Betsey Johnson)
photographed by: justin schumanmodels: elise chagas (‘14), kavi gupta (‘14)
styling by: katie cannadyjewelry provided by: gavin
STITCH |48
DO2
TO
LIS
TE
N THE ALABAMA SHAKES
BY: MATT GROSINGER
BOYS & GIRLSI am sick of all my music. Given the whole “music diehard/reviewer” thing, this has become more than slightly distressing and problematic. I feel like everything I listen to is just a staid formula of what pop media dictates (and what I propagate) or a disjointed web of related art-ists. Thinking about music is something that I obviously love to do, but I would never care about the analytical endeavor were it not the logi-cal extension of feel-ing the music, of hearing it for the first time and instinctive-ly liking it before grokking why. Such was the visceral tryst of hearing the Alabama Shakes’ debut LP, Boys & Girls for the first time. I say “hearing” in-stead of “listening” because listening im-plies some sort of concerted effort on behalf of the audience: before my syn-apses fired and registered the Shakes’ penchant for blues hooks or Brittany Howard’s robust vocal prowess, the corners of my mouth had already turned upward and my foot had already began rapidly assaulting the floor. To be
terse, Boys & Girls is a blues album that succeeds more the less it is appraised.I could tell you that Jack White is a huge proponent for this band. I could also compare their sonic inclinations to the neo-garage movement of the early 2000s. But none of this matters. When it is just you and your speak-
ers, lurching two-step and twelve-bar dives coarsely remove my-thology. On “Hold On,” the album’s anthemic opener, Howard even obviates the need for an audience by directly addressing herself in the bridge: “You got to come on Brittany, you got to come on up.”
All that matters is that the individual engages presently with the song, and trusts the sunbconscious reflex – for their part, the Shakes do an insane job of conveying spontaneity within the tight confines of a thirty minute record. Decontextualizing this album into its most basic parts and trusting the knee-jerk reaction seemed at first like a faulty critical approach, but Boys & Girls is an album you need to hear first and listen to second. Sometimes you just need to reboot and trust your instincts.TO
P 10
1. Jai Paul “Jasmine”2. Mikal Cronin “Apathy”3. Willis Earl Beal “Monotony”4. Ratking “Wikispeaks”
5. Lotus Plaza “Monoliths”6. Chromatics “Kill For Love”7. Japandroids “The House That Heaven Built”
8.Kanye West “Theraflu”9. THEESatisfaction “QueenS”10. Action Bronson “Hookers at the Point”
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DO2
TO
WA
TC
HGIRL, PLEASE
BY: CORINNE WHITE
HBO’S “GIRLS”So it finally happened. After the inces-sant hype, Girls premiered on HBO last Sunday. As an English major who will probably move to New York af-ter I graduate (much like the writer/producer/main character Lena Dun-ham, and much like many many other literary-minded col-lege graduates across the globe), and as an avid Sex and the City watcher (which Girls is constantly compared to), I was looking forward to the premiere. Really looking forward to it. But after watching, I couldn’t help but wonder: why do I want Sex and the City right now like it’s a glass of ice water in a desert. Critics love Girls because it’s realistic, unlike the Manolo-wearing, hot-sex having Sex and the City crew. The characters in Girls wear scuffed-up boots from Urban Outfitters and have sex that is much more awkward than it is hot (Samantha would be horrified). Where SATC is cotton candy, Girls is, you know, a sandwich. It’s funny, it’s in-telligent, it has layers. How many layers did Carrie have? And that’s not count-ing the many layers of her clothing. In a particularly shocking scene, Lena eats a cupcake for break-
fast, naked in her bathtub, while her roommate sits on the edge of the tub shaving her legs. See—this sounds great in theory. It’s real. This realness is—or at least supposed to be—refreshing. And maybe after a few more episodes of Girls, I’ll adapt to it. But I have to ad-mit, I found myself craving the escap-
ism of SATC. I found myself thinking, “Man. I really don’t want an-other reminder about how broke I’m go-ing to be in a year.” Most people knew that SATC wasn’t re-alistic. Articles were published in countless women’s magazines about how Carrie’s newspaper columnist salary would barely cover four pairs of Manolos. SATC wasn’t great because it was
realistic. Is Girls great because it is? Maybe the Girls sandwich just looks too meaty for me right now. Maybe, after the fluff and sparkle of SATC, my tastes are skewed, addicted to sugar. Sugar, though, is an acquired taste. I’ll keep watching Girls, because I do think it is certainly worth watch-ing. After all, when you’re hungry, who would take cotton candy over a sandwich? And our generation—who often can’t afford lunch unless our parents cover it (like Lena Dun-ham in the pilot episode)—is hungry.
STITCH |50
LASTWORD
Aside from the fact that Biel is a subpar actress (have you seen Valentine’s Day? Wow), I find it slightly off-putting that magazines like W that pride themselves on being at the forefront of fashion journalism continue to put celebrities on their covers. A lot of celebrities do dress well, but it isn’t without effort. I have qualms since most stars are styled meticulously by stylists who don’t let them walk out of their mansions in West Hollywood without looking artfully tousled. The fusion of fashion and celebrity is something that has always been a part of pop culture, but lately the fashion world seems to have been completely infiltrated by “stars.” I don’t know when the ability to act began to equate with the ability to model, but it certainly seems that way. Celebrities are everywhere: modeling badly on the cover of magazines (I cringe thinking
about Jessica Simpson’s most recent naked, pregnant cover of Elle), starring in ad campaigns for designers (the atrocity of Mischa Barton’s dead-eyed, open-mouth modeling 2009 stint for Bebe), and getting their outfits plastered all over my favorite blogs. It’s not as though I specifically resent the idea of the celebrity as a fashion icon. I don’t deny that I am obsessed with Rooney Mara and Emma Stone and crave the way they seem to effortlessly put their looks together, but it perturbs me that simply by being an actress, you get an all access pass to the fashion world. Please, if you’re going to put a celebrity on the cover of your reputable publication, make it someone who actually knows how to take a photograph; I’m sorry Jennifer Aniston, I love you, but you constantly look like a deer in the headlights.
where have all the models gone?AS A SEVENTH GRADER I WAS NOTORIOUSLY GOOD AT KEEPING UP WITH MY MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONS. I LIVED FOR THE THURSDAY AFTERNOON WHEN VOGUE WOULD LAND IN MY MAILBOX AND I’D GET TO CEREMONIOUSLY RIP OFF THE PLASTIC, ANTICIPATING WHO WAS ON THE COVER. A PARTICULARLY AWE-INDUCING COVER OF NATALIA VODIANOVA LOOKING STUNNING IN A WHITE DRESS HUNG ON MY WALL FOR YEARS. THESE DAYS I’M HORRIFIED THAT THE COVER OF A W MAGAZINE LYING ON MY ROOMMATE’S BED IS JESSICA BIEL, TRYING HER HARDEST TO LOOKING ALLURING.
By: Arabella Watters
51| STITCH
By: Arabella Watters
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STITCHS
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