stihl gs 461...relevant spare parts list to check the part numbers of any spare parts required. a...

STIH)

STIHL GS 461 2012-06

q© ANDREAS STIHL AG & Co. KG, 2012

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01Contents

1. Introduction and safety precautions 2

1.1 Introduction 21.2 Safety precautions 3

2. Specifications 4

2.1 Engine 42.2 Fuel system 42.3 Ignition system 42.4 Tightening torques 5

3. Troubleshooting 7

3.1 Clutch 73.2 Chain Drive, Chain

Tensioner 83.3 Water system 93.4 Starter 103.5 Ignition system 113.6 Carburetor 123.7 Engine 15

4. Clutch 16

4.1 Clutch drum 164.2 Clutch 164.3 Pin / hand guard 184.4 Chain tensioner 194.5 Cut-off chain 204.6 Bar mounting studs 214.7 Collar nuts for chain

sprocket cover 21

5. Engine 22

5.1 Muffler 225.2 Leak testing 235.2.1 Preparations 235.2.2 Testing with

negative pressure 245.2.3 Pressure test 255.3 Oil seal on

ignition side 255.3.1 Oil seals on

clutch side 265.4 Shroud 275.5 Cylinder 285.6 Crankshaft 305.6.1 Ball bearing /

crankcase 345.7 Piston 355.8 Piston rings 375.9 Decompression valve 37

GS 461

6. Ignition system 38

6.1 Ignition timing 386.2 Ignition module 386.3 Testing the ignition

module 406.3.1 Testing the ignition

module with engine analyzer MDG 1 40

6.4 Spark plug boot / ignition lead 41

6.5 Flywheel 426.6 Wiring harness 436.6.1 Testing 436.6.2 Ground wire 436.6.3 Wiring harness

Removal and installation 43

6.6.4 Contact spring 466.7 Troubleshooting,

ignition system 48

7. Starter 51

7.1 General 517.2 Starter

Removal and installation 51

7.3 Pawls 517.4 Rope rotor 527.5 Starter rope / starter

grip 527.6 Tensioning the

rewind spring 537.7 Replacing the

rewind spring 53

8. Antivibration elements 55

8.1 Ring buffer fuel tank / clutch side 55

8.1.1 Ring buffer fuel tank / ignition side 55

8.1.2 Ring buffer guard / clutch side 56

8.1.3 Ring buffer guard / ignition side 57

8.1.4 Stop buffer on clutch side 58

8.1.5 Stop buffer on ignition side 58

8.2 Handlebar 588.3 Guard 59

8.4 Rubber buffers / support 60

8.4.1 Water hose 608.4.2 Shut-off cock 618.4.3 Support 61

9. Actuating levers 63

9.1 Master Control lever 639.1.1 Removal and

installation 639.2 Throttle trigger /

trigger interlock 649.3 Throttle rod 65

10. Fuel system 67

10.1 Air filter 6710.2 Filter base 6710.3 Carburetor 6710.3.1 Leakage test 6910.4 Repairing

the carburetor 6910.4.1 Metering diaphragm 6910.4.2 Inlet needle 7010.4.3 Pump diaphragm 7110.4.4 Adjusting screws 7210.5 Carburetor adjustment 7410.5.1 Basic setting 7410.5.2 Adjustment 7410.5.3 Standard setting 7510.6 Intake elbow 7610.6.1 Impulse hose 7710.7 Tank vent 7810.7.1 Testing 7810.7.2 Removal and

installation 7810.8 Fuel intake 7910.8.1 Pickup body 7910.8.2 Fuel hose 7910.8.3 Tank housing 80

11. Special tools 83

12. Service accessories 85

1

1. Introduction and safety precautions

1.1 Introduction In the text:

This Service Manual contains detailed descriptions of all the typical repair and servicing procedures for this power tool.

Refer to the illustrated spare parts lists during all repair work. These lists show the installation position and order in which the individual parts and modules should be assembled.

Refer to the latest edition of the relevant spare parts list to check the part numbers of any spare parts required.

A fault on the machine may be due to several causes. To help locate the fault, consult the chapter on "Troubleshooting" and the "STIHL Service Training System" for all functional groups.

Refer to the "Technical Information" bulletins for engineering changes which have been introduced since publication of this Service Manual. The "Technical information bulletins" also supplement the spare parts list and Service Manual until an updated edition is issued.

The special tools mentioned in the descriptions are listed in the chapter "Special Servicing Tools" of this manual. The tools can be identified according to part number in the "Special Tools Manual". The manual lists all tools supplied by STIHL.

Symbols are included in the text and pictures for greater clarity. The meanings are as follows:

2

: = Action to be taken as shown in the illustration above the text

– = Action to be taken but not shown in the illustration above the text

In the illustrations:

A Item pointer (short)

aDirection of movement (long arrow)

b 4.2 = Reference to anotherchapter, in this case to Chapter 4.2

Service Manuals and "Technical information bulletins" are intended exclusively for the use of properly equipped repair shops. They must not be passed on to third parties.

In order to be able to fit the machine on the assembly stand, the support 5910 850 1651 mounting kit must be used. The new support (1) can be identified with the aid of the marking "5910 851 1601 B" printed on the housing.

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xxxx xxx xxxx x

– Remove support 5910 850 1650

: Secure the support (1) 5910 851 1601 B to the assembly stand with two screws (2) and washers.

The screws must not protrude, as they may damage the housings when clamping the machine, depending on the model.

Preparing to make repairs

In order to be able to clamp the machine for the repair work on the assembly stand, the chain sprocket cover, cut-off chain and guide bar must be removed.

The machine is guided with the collar screws through the lower holes of the clamping rail and fastened using nuts M 8 (arrows).

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Always use original STIHL 1.2 Safety precautions The chapter "Tightening Torques"
replacement parts.They can be identified by the STIHL part number,the logo STIH)and theSTIHL parts symbol (The symbol may appear alone on small parts.
Storage or disposal of fuel

Collect fuel in a clean container and dispose of it in accordance with environmental regulations.

Routing the leads

In principle, press all electrical leads into the guides using the wiring tool 5910 890 4000.

GS 461

Specific national safety regulations and the safety instructions in the instruction manual must be observed if the machine has to be started up during maintenance or repair work.

Fuel is highly inflammable and can also be explosive under certain conditions.

Do not bring any fire, flame, spark or other source of heat near the fuel. All work with fuel must be performed outdoors only. Spilled fuel must be wiped away immediately.

Test for leakage after all work on the fuel system and engine.

Exercise extreme caution while carrying out maintenance and repair work on the ignition system. The high voltages which occur can cause serious or fatal accidents.

Suitable gloves must be worn without fail if parts are heated for assembly/disassembly purposes.

Improper handling may result in burns and other serious injuries.

Always replace damaged parts. Check dismantled parts for wear and damage before installation, replace if necessary.

Only use the machine with the starter and shroud mounted –otherwise the rotating flywheel poses a risk of injury and there is a risk of engine damage due to overheating.

lists all components of this machine that must be tightened with the specified tightening torques or coated with thread-locking adhesive. These specifications must be observed throughout the Service Manual when tightening screws and nuts as well as other fasteners.

Fuel system – barbed connectors

Pull or push the fuel hoses, by hand whenever possible, in the direction of the connector in order to ensure leakproofness of the fuel system.

Avoid damaging the barbed connectors – sharp-edged pliers, screwdrivers, etc., may not be used.Also, do not cut open fuel hoses with a knife or similar aids.

Do not reuse fuel hoses after disassembly, but instead always replace them with new hoses – fuel hoses can be overstretched when being detached.

Mount new fuel hoses dry or using STIHL press fluid – apply press fluid to the ends of the hose and the connectors, b 12.

Other press fluids are not permitted and may lead to fuel hose damage.

3

2. Specifications

2.1 Engine

GS 461

Displacement: 76.5 cm3

Cylinder bore: 52.0 mm

Stroke: 36.0 mm

Engine power according to ISO 7293: 4.3 kW (5.9 HP) at 9800 rpm

Idle speed: 2500 rpm

Clutch: Centrifugal clutch without linings

Clutch engages at: 3500 rpm

Crankcase leakage test

at gauge pressure: 0.5 bar

under vacuum: 0.5 bar

2.2 Fuel system

Carburetor leakage test at gauge pressure: 0.8 barOperation of tank vent at gauge pressure: 0.5 barFuel: as specified in instruction

manual

2.3 Ignition system

Air gap between ignition module and fanwheel: 0.20 (+ 0.1/- 0.25) mm

Spark plug (suppressed): BOSCH WSR 6 FNGK BPMR 7 A

Electrode gap: 0.5 mm

4 GS 461

2.4 Tightening torques

P and DG screws are fitted in plastic and light alloy metal parts. These screws form a permanent thread when they are installed for the first time. The material is permanently deformed. Screws can be removed and installed as often as necessary without impairing the strength of the screwed assembly, provided that the specified tightening torque is observed.For this reason it is essential to use a torque wrench.

When inserting DG and P screws into an existing screw thread:

Insert the DG or P screw in the hole and turn counterclockwise until it gently drops into the hole in axial direction and engages the existing threads. Tighten the screw clockwise to the specified torque.

This procedure ensures that the screw engages properly in the existing thread and does not form a new thread and weaken the assembly.

For the microencapsulated screw, before renewed assembly, clean both threads (insert tap in the internal thread by hand and then blow out the threaded hole, brush off the exterior thread), coat the cleaned screw with medium-strength Loctite 242 or 243.

Screwdriver speed with: P and DG screws max. 500 rpm.Do not use an impact wrench to release or tighten screw connections.

Screws with and without locking serration must not be confused.

Fastener Thread size For component Tighteningtorques Nm

Comment

Screw M 4x12 Cover for chain tensioner / crankcase 3.0

Stud M 8 Stud / crankcase for bar 23.0 2)

M 10x1 Decompression valve 14.0

Screw D 4x12 Spring housing / fan housing 3.0

Collar nut M 5 Filter cover / slotted nut 1.0

Collar nut M 5 Flange / filter base / carburetor 3.5

Screw M 4x10 Flange / crankcase 2.5 5)

Screw M 4x12 Crank drive flange / crankcase 3.5 4), 6)

Screw P 6x21.5 Handlebar at top / tank housing 8.0 3)

Screw P 6x32.5 Handlebar at bottom / tank housing 8.0 3)

Screw P 4x19 Handle molding 1.6

Screw D 4x16 Hand guard clutch side 4.0 4), 6)

Screw M 5x35x22 Hand guard ignition side 7.0 4), 6)

Screw M 5x23 Shroud / crankcase 6.0

Nut M 5 Shroud / cylinder 3.5

Screw M 5x25 Crankcase drive side / fan side 10.0 4), 6)

Screw M 5x20 Fan housing 7.0 4)

Carrier M 12x1 L Carrier 50.0

Screw M 4x16 Ring buffer / crankcase 4.5 5)

Screw P 6x19 Ring buffer / tank housing rear 5.5

5GS 461

Fastener Thread size For component Tightening torque Nm

Comment

Screw P 6x32.5 Ring buffer / tank housing rear ignition side top 5.5

Screw P 6x19 Ring buffer / tank housing front 5.5

Screw M 6x30 Muffler / crankcase 15 4), 6), 8)

Screw M 5x16 Muffler / cylinder 11.5 1), 4), 6)

Screw M 5x6 Muffler top 6.5 1), 4), 5)

Nut M 8x1 Flywheel / crankshaft 33.0 7)

Screw M 4x8 Side plate / crankcase 3.0 4), 6)

Screw M 3x20 Clamp / manifold 0.5

Screw P 4x14 Water attachment / handle housing 2.0

M 14x1.25 Spark plug 25.0

Screw M 5x20 Ignition module / crankcase 7.0 5)

Screw M 6x30 Cylinder / crankcase 15.0 4), 6)

Remarks:

1) Loctite 242 or 243 medium strength2) Loctite 270 high strength3) Loctite 649 very high strength4) Screws with locking serration5) Microencapsulated screws6) Screws with easy-slide coating7) Connection between crankshaft and flywheel must be degreased and oil-free8) Coat screws and threaded hole with medium-strength Loctite 242 or 243

6 GS 461

3. Troubleshooting

3.1 Clutch

Problem Cause Remedy

Cut-off chain becomes stuck under full load

Clutch shoes badly worn Replace clutch

Clutch drum badly worn Replace clutch drum

Cut-off chain runs when idling Idle speed too high Readjust idle speed screw LA

Tension springs of the clutch shoes are stretched

Replace clutch springs or replace clutch

Tension springs of the clutch shoes are broken

Replace clutch springs

Loud noises Tension springs stretched Replace all clutch springs

Needle cage damaged Replace needle cage

Clutch shoe retainer broken Replace retainer or clutch

Clutch shoes and carrier worn Replace clutch

7GS 461

3.2 Chain Drive, Chain Tensioner


Chain sprocket wears rapidly Cut-off chain not properly tensioned Tension cut-off chain properly

Insufficient cooling of cut-off chain Check water cooling

Insufficient water volume Check water pressure

Cut-off chain becomes stuck under full load

Clutch shoes badly worn Replace clutch

Clutch drum badly worn Replace clutch drum

Cut-off chain runs when idling Idle speed too high Readjust idle speed screw LA

Tension springs of the clutch shoes are stretched

Replace clutch springs or replace clutch

Tension springs of the clutch shoes are broken

Replace clutch springs

8 GS 461

3.3 Water system


No water supply Shut-off cock, connectors of hose connections or opening of water outlet very dirty / clogged

Clean shut-off cock and connectors of hose connections, replace if necessary

Too little water Water hose kinked or damaged – also check water supply hose

Check hose clips, water hose and seals, replace if necessary

Connectors of hose connection very dirty

Check and clean connectors, replace if necessary

Leaks in the water system O-ring on water attachment damaged

Replace O-ring, replace whole water attachment if necessary

Hose clips open or damaged or hose damaged

Close hose clips, replace if necessary, replace damaged hose

9GS 461

3.4 Starter


Starter rope broken Rope pulled out too vigorously as far as stop or over edge, i.e. not vertically

Replace starter rope

Normal wear Replace starter rope

Starter rope does not rewind Heavy fouling or rust on rewind spring

Clean or replace rewind spring

Spring insufficiently tensioned Check rewind spring and increase tension

Rewind spring broken Replace rewind spring

Starter rope cannot be pulled out far enough

Rewind spring overtensioned Check rewind spring and reduce tension

Starter rope can be pulled out almost without resistance (crankshaft does not turn)

Guide peg on pawls or pawls themselves are worn

Replace pawls

Spring clip fatigued Replace spring clip

Spring clip improperly installed Install spring clip properly

Starter rope is difficult to pull or rewinds very slowly

Starter mechanism is very dirty Thoroughly clean complete starter mechanism

At very low outside temperatures:Lubricant oil on the rewind spring becomes viscous (spring winding stick together) or moisture has penetrated the rewind spring (spring windings are frozen)

Coat rewind spring with a little standard solvent-based degreasant (containing no chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons), then pull rope carefully several times until normal action is restored

10 GS 461

3.5 Ignition system

Exercise extreme caution while
carrying out maintenance and repair work on the ignition system. The high voltages which occur can cause serious or fatal accidents.

Engine runs roughly, misfires, temporary loss of power

Spark plug boot is loose Press spark plug boot firmly onto spark plug and fit new torsion spring and spark plug boot if necessary

Spark plug sooted, smeared with oil Clean spark plug, replace if necessaryIn the event of repeated sooting, check air filter

Ignition lead loose in ignition module

Replace ignition lead

Fuel / oil mixture – contains too much oil

Use a fuel mixture with the correct mixing ratio

Incorrect air gap between ignition module and flywheel

Set the correct air gap

Flywheel is crackedor has other damage or pole shoes have turned blue

Install new flywheel

Incorrect ignition timing, flywheel out of adjustment – woodruff key has sheared off or groove in flywheel is worn

Replace flywheel or woodruff key

Weak magnetization in flywheel Install new flywheel

Irregular spark Check operation of switch shaft / contact spring and ignition moduleDamaged insulation on ignition lead or interruption in ignition lead or short circuit wire, check ignition lead / ignition module and replace if necessary.Check operation of spark plugClean spark plug, replace if necessary

If the engine runs roughly, this may also be due to problems in the carburetor or engine.

11GS 461

3.6 Carburetor


Carburetor floods; engine stalls Inlet needle not sealing – Foreign matter in valve seat or cone

Remove and clean inlet needle or clean carburetor

Inlet needle worn Replace inlet needle

Inlet control lever sticking on spindle

Check inlet control lever, replace if necessary

Helical spring not located on nipple of inlet control lever

Remove the inlet control lever and refit it correctly

Perforated disc on diaphragm is deformed and presses constantly against the inlet control lever

Fit new metering diaphragm

Metering diaphragm is deformed Fit new metering diaphragm

Poor acceleration Low speed adjusting screw "too lean"

Check basic carburetor setting, correct if necessary

High speed adjusting screw "too lean"


Inlet needle sticking to valve seat Remove inlet needle, clean and refit

Metering diaphragm or gasket is damaged

Replace metering diaphragm and gasket

Tank vent faulty Replace tank vent

Leak in fuel line between pickup body and carburetor

Seal connections or replace fuel line

12 GS 461


Engine will not idle, idle speed too high

Throttle shutter opened too wide by idle speed screw LA

Set idle speed screw LA correctly

Oil seals / crankcase leaking Seal or replace oil seals / crankcase

Throttle shutter does not close Replace carburetor

Engine stops when idling Idle jet bores or ports blocked

Clean the carburetor

Low speed adjusting screw "too rich" or "too lean"

Correct setting of low speed adjusting screw L

Idle speed screw LA setting incorrect – throttle shutter completely closed

Set idle speed screw LA correctly




Cut-off chain rotates at idle speed Idle speed too high Readjust with idle speed screw LA (counterclockwise)

Tension springs of clutch shoes stretched or fatigued

Replace tension springs or replace clutch

Anchor loops of the tension springs for the clutch shoes are broken

Replace tension springs

13GS 461


Engine speed drops quickly under load – low power

Air filter dirty or wet Clean or dry air filter, replace if necessary

Throttle shutter not opened fully Check throttle cable and rod


Fuel pickup body dirty Replace pickup body

Fuel strainer dirty Clean fuel strainer in carburetor, replace if necessary



High speed adjusting screw H "too rich"


Main jet bores or ports blocked Clean the carburetor

Pump diaphragm damaged or fatigued

Fit new pump diaphragm

Incorrect ignition timing, flywheel out of adjustment– woodruff key has sheared off or groove in flywheel is worn

Replace flywheel or woodruff key

Engine runs extremely rich, lacks power and has very low final speed

Choke shutter does not open fully Examine the carburetor and starter shaft and repair or replace if necessary

14 GS 461

3.7 Engine

Always check and, if necessary,
repair the following parts before looking for faults on the engine:
- Air filter- Fuel supply- Carburetor- Ignition system


Engine does not start easily, stalls at idle speed but operates normally at full throttle

Oil seals in crankcase damaged Replace oil seals

Crankcase leaking or damaged (cracks)

Seal / replace crankcase

Engine does not deliver full power or runs erratically

Piston rings worn or broken Replace piston rings

Muffler / spark arresting screen carbonized

Clean muffler (inlet and outlet openings), replace spark arresting screen, replace muffler if necessary

Air filter dirty or wet Clean or dry air filter, replace if necessary

Fuel line kinked or cracked Fit new lines and ensure they are installed without kinking

Decompression valve not closed Close decompression valve, check and replace if necessary

Engine is overheated Insufficient cylinder cooling. Air inlets in fan housing blocked or cooling fins on cylinder very dirty

Thoroughly clean all cooling air openings and the cylinder fins

Air intake in fan housing is fouled Clean air intake on fan housing

15GS 461

4. Clutch

4.1 Clutch drum – Coat the needle cage and

: Remove cap (1)

: Push out circlip (1) and remove washer (2) – always use new circlip

: Remove the clutch drum (3)

: Remove needle cage (1)

– Clean needle cage and crankshaft stub, b 12

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crankshaft stub with STIHL grease, b 12

– Examine the clutch drum (1) for signs of wear

The remaining thickness must be measured if there are distinct signs of wear on the inside diameter of the clutch drum (1). The clutch drum must be replaced if the remaining thickness is less than approx. 80 % of the original thickness.

Installation

– Install the clutch drum

– Coat cap with STIHL press fluid, b 12

– Fit rim sprocket and press on cap until the groove completely enclose the clutch drum

4.2 Clutch

– Troubleshooting, b 3

– Remove filter cover

– Remove air baffle

– Take off the spark plug boot and remove the spark plug

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100%

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: Insert locking strip (1) 0000 893 5903 into the cylinder with the wide side in front and align so that the words "OBEN-TOP" are visible

: Locking strip (1) 0000 893 5903 must rest against the cylinder wall (arrow)– Position as shown

– Remove rim sprocket and clutch drum

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GS 461

: Unscrew the clutch (1) at hexagon (arrow)

The clutch has a left-hand thread.

Disassembly

: Use hook (2) 5910 890 2800 to remove the clutch springs (1)

If there are distinct signs of wear of the clutch kit (set of 3), replace clutch shoes.

Assembly

: Fit holder (1) and slide clutch shoes (2) over the legs (3)

TOP

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Attach the springs to the side with the raised hexagon (arrow).

– clamp assembled clutch on a horizontal clutch shoe in the vise

: Attach one end of the clutch spring (1) to the clutch shoes

: Use the assembly hook (2) 5910 890 2800 to pull the other end of the spring and hook it into the clutch shoe

– Examine the clutch – all springs must be hooked in properly

The washer (1) must be in place and the word "TOP" (arrow) must be visible.

off

off

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TOP

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: Fit the clutch (1) on the crankshaft stub so that the raised hexagon (arrow) can be seen

: Screw on and tighten the clutch (1) – left-handed thread

– Pull the locking strip out of the cylinder

– Fit rim sprocket and clutch drum

– Fit the spark plug and tighten it down firmly

– Refit the spark plug boot

– Insert air baffle

– Attach filter cover

TOP

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4.3 Pin / hand guard

The pin ensures that the hand guard is securely mounted. If it is worn, replace the pin.

– Remove starter, b 7.2

: Pull out rubber buffer (1)

: Unscrew the screw (1)

: Draw hand guard (2) with insert (3) off the pivot pin simultaneously

– Pull insert out of hand guard

– Remove washer

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: Disassemble bolt (1)

Installation

– Coat the knurled area of the new pin with Loctite before fitting the pin, b 12

: The pin must be inserted in the hole (arrow) so that the knurling on the pin engages the knurled profile

Turn the pin back and forth slightly until it fits.

The pin must be driven in square.

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: Drive in pin (1) in accordance with the following information

: Pin (1) a = approx. 10.3...10.5 mm

: Orient insert (1) so that the tab (2) is at the top

: Slide insert (1) into recess in hand guard (3) until the holes (4) and (5) are lined up

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GS 461

– Use STIHL press fluid to simplify

: Slide on the washer (1)

: Slide hand guard (1) with insert (2) across the machine as far as it will go on the pivot pin (arrow)

: Screw in the screw (3) and tighten

: Align rubber buffer (1) so that the pegs face the machine and the raised part (2) faces upwards

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assembly, b 12

: Press rubber buffer (1) into the mount so that the raised part (2) rests against the hand guard (arrow)

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order

4.4 Chain tensioner

– Troubleshooting, b 3.2

– Remove outer side plate, b 8.1.2

: Turn the spur gear (1) anticlockwise until the tensioner slide (2) makes contact on the left and the tensioning nut is visible


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: Hook assembly hook 5910 890 2800 onto tensioning nut (arrow) and pull out the complete chain tensioner

– Remove sealing ring from shaft

– Examine the chain tensioner, replace if necessary

Installation

: Fit new sealing ring in the groove (arrow) of the spur gear

– Clean all disassembled parts, b 12

– Grease screw threads, gear wheels and sealing ring with STIHL grease, b 12

– Before fitting the chain tensioner, assemble the individual parts and push limit stop into the mount

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Installation

– If the cut-off chain cannot be tensioned,

: Place guide bar (1) into the second hole (arrow), then repeat tensioning operation


4.5 Cut-off chain

The following damage to the cut-off chain can be repaired. The following assembly steps are the same for all repairs.

– Drive link cracked

– Rivet cracked

– Segment broken off

– Remove cut-off chain

If a drive link is cracked, both neighboring tie straps (1) must always be unriveted.

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: Clamp die (1) 5805 757 7106 in vise and insert cut-off chain with the tie straps to be unriveted

: Push insert (2) 5805 757 9500 as far as it will go over the segments (3) of the tie straps to be unriveted and break away segments (3)

: Insert cut-off chain into the die (1) 5805 757 7106 so that the drive links (2) make contact on both sides (arrows)

– Unrivet tie straps with STIHL NG 4 or NG 7 – see Instruction Manual STIHL NG 4 or NG 7

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With the drive links (1) and (2), always make sure that they alternate – drive links that are the same must not be installed one after the other.

The lugs (arrows) of the drive links (1) must face the same direction.

: Twist lock links loose (1), twist lock links rolled (2) and assemble drive link (3) so that the "STIHL" embossing is visible, then rivet with STIHL NG 5 or NG 7 (roll in just like saw chain with "spinner insert A" and "thrust screw A, B") – see Instruction Manual STIHL NG 5 or NG 7

– Adapt newly inserted chain link to the dimensions of the others

– Mount cut-off chain

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4.6 Bar mounting studs – Reassemble remaining parts in – Pull out the collar nuts

– Remove outer side plate, b 8.1.2

– Unscrew studs out of the crankcase using stud driver 5910 893 0501

: When fitting, coat thread (1) of the studs with Loctite, b 12

: Screw in and tighten studs (1) with stud driver (2) 5910 890 3000

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reverse order

4.7 Collar nuts for chain sprocket cover

To replace the nuts, use special tool stud 5910 893 9601.

– Remove chain sprocket cover

: Screw the assembly tool (1) 5910 893 9601 with the stud marking "S" as far as it will go into the collar nuts (2)

– Flip over the chain sprocket cover and clamp the assembly tool into a vise by the hexagon

: Drill out the collar nuts with an 11 mm diameter drill bit – the base in the chain sprocket cover must not be drilled out

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– Unscrew the assembly tool from the collar nuts

Installation

: Push in new collar nuts (1)

– Hold the hexagon of the collar nuts in place

: Screw the assembly tool (1) 5910 893 9601 with the stud marking "L" into the opposite side of the collar nuts as far as it will go

Now the new collar nuts have been flanged and secured in the chain sprocket cover to prevent loss.


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5. Engine

5.1 Muffler

Check and if necessary repair the fuel supply, carburetor, air filter and ignition system before looking for faults on the engine.

– Troubleshooting, b 3

To keep dirt particles from entering the cylinder, move piston to top dead center – the top dead center is attained when the magnet poles of the flywheel face upwards.

: Remove screws (1) and (2)

: Take out and examine the exhaust casing (3), replace if necessary

: Remove gasket (1) and unscrew screws (2) – always use a new gasket

– Remove and examine the muffler, replace if necessary.

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: Remove the muffler gasket (1) and cooling plate (2)

– Installing and removing the spark arresting screen, see Instruction Manual

Installation

– Place the machine in an upright position.

– Cover exhaust bore and remove any fouling on the cylinder and exhaust bore

: Examine and clean the mating surfaces (arrows) on the exhaust bore, cooling plate and muffler – there must not be any gasket residues or dirt particles in the exhaust bore

Parts with damaged mating faces must be replaced.

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: Line up the cooling plate (1) with the pegs (arrows) on the cylinder exhaust port and attach

: Line up the muffler gasket (1) with the pegs (arrows) of the cooling plate (2) and attach

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5.2 Leak testing 5.2.1 Preparations

: Carefully fit the muffler (1)

: Coat the screws (2) with Loctite, b 12

: Fit screws (2) and check that cooling plate or gasket is correctly positioned

: Insert and tighten the screws (2)

– insert new gasket

: Coat the screws (3) with Loctite, b 12

: Position exhaust casing (1), screw in and tighten screws (2), screws (3)

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Defective oil seals and gaskets or cracks in housing are the usual causes of leaks. Such faults allow supplementary air to enter the engine and upset the fuel-air mixture.

This makes adjustment of the prescribed idle speed difficult, if not impossible.

Moreover, the transition from idle speed to part or full throttle is not smooth.

Oil seals tend to fail when subjected to a vacuum, therefore always start with the vacuum test and then continue with the pressure test.

The engine can be thoroughly checked for leaks under vacuum and at gauge pressure using the pump 0000 850 1300.

– Remove filter cover and air baffle

– Remove shroud, b 5.4

– Take off the spark plug boot and remove the spark plug

– Set the piston to the top dead center (this can be checked through the spark plug hole)

– Remove the decompression valve, b 5.9

: Fit the stopper (1) 1122 025 2200 and screw it tight

: Screw in spark plug (2) and tighten it securely

– Remove exhaust casing and loosen muffler screws, b 5.1

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5.2.2 Testing with negative

: Slide sealing plate (1) 0000 855 8106 on the cylinder exhaust port between the cooling plate and cylinder

– Tighten screws lightly

The sealing plate must fill the full width between the screws.

– Remove the carburetor, b 10.3

: Washer (1) and sleeve (2) must be fitted

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2

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: Orient flange (1) 5910 850 4200 and push it onto the studs – Screw (2) for impulse hose must be screwed in at the bottom

– Coat screw or inside of impulse hose with STIHL press fluid, b 12

: Slide on flange (1) 5910 850 4200 so that the screw (2) engages in the impulse hose (3)

: Slide on sleeves (1) 5910 893 1701

: Tightly screw on nuts (2)

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pressure

: Push the hose (1) of pump 0000 850 1300 onto the connector (arrow)

: Slide ring (2) to the left– Vacuum test

: Operate lever (3) until the pressure gauge (4) indicates a vacuum of 0.5 bar

If the vacuum reading remains constant, or does not decrease by more than 0.3 bar within 20 seconds, it may be assumed that the oil seals are in good condition.If the vacuum in the crankcase is reduced further, the oil seals must be replaced, b 5.3.

– After testing, slide the ring on the pump back to the right to vent the pump

– Continue with pressure test, b 5.2.3

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5.2.3 Pressure test – Tighten screws of muffler and fit

The same preparatory steps are required as for the vacuum test, b 5.2.2.

: Push the hose (1) of pump 0000 850 1300 onto the connector (arrow)

: Slide ring (1) to the right– Pressure test

: Operate the lever (2) until the pressure gauge (3) indicates a pressure of 0.5 bar. If this pressure remains constant for at least 20 seconds, the crankcase is airtight.

– If the pressure drops, the leak must be located and the faulty part replaced.

To find the leak, coat the suspect area with soapy water and pressurize the crankcase. Bubbles will appear if a leak exists.

– After testing, slide the ring on the pump to the left to vent the pump – disconnect the hose.

– Remove flange 5910 850 4200

– Loosen screws on muffler and pull out sealing plate 0000 855 8106

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exhaust casing, b 5.1

– Install the carburetor, b 10.3


5.3 Oil seal on ignition side

It is not necessary to disassemble the complete engine in order to replace the oil seals.


– Remove the flywheel, b 6.5

: Push woodruff key (1) out of the groove

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Avoid damage to the crankshaft stub.

– Free the oil seal in its seat by tapping it with a suitable tube or a punch.

: Apply the puller (1) 5910 890 4400 with jaws (profile no. 3.1) 0000 893 3706

– Clamp the puller arms

– Pull out the oil seal

Installation

– Clean the mating surface, b 12

– Coat the sealing lips of the new oil seal with STIHL grease, b 12

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25

Installation

: Slide on oil seal (1) with the sealing lip facing the crankcase

: Use the press sleeve (2) 1115 893 4600 to install the oil seal (1)

The seating face must be flat and free from burrs.

– Install woodruff key

– Crankshaft / flywheel connection must be degreased and oil-free, clean if necessary, b 12


5.3.1 Oil seals on clutch side

– Remove clutch, b 4

: Undo screws (1) and remove flange (2)

– Remove gasket – always use a new gasket

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26

: Press out oil seal

: Examine and clean flange (1), replace if necessary


– Free the oil seal in its seat by tapping it with a suitable tube or a punch.

: Apply the puller (1) 5910 890 4400 with jaws (profile no. 3.1) 0000 893 3706

– Clamp the puller arms

– Pull out the oil seal

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1

– Clean the mating surface

– Coat the sealing lips of the new oil seals with STIHL grease, b 12

: Fit the assembly sleeve (1) 1118 893 4602

– Slide the oil seal over the assembly sleeve with the sealing lip facing the crankcase

: Remove the assembly sleeve (1)

: Use the press sleeve (1) 1118 893 2401 to install the oil seal (2)

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Installation

: Align new oil seal (1) in accordance with the illustration with the open side facing upwards

: Press oil seal (1) by hand as far as it will go into the mount on the inside of the flange (2)

: Fit new gasket (1) so that the tab (arrow) engages in the recess

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: Fit the assembly sleeve (1) 1118 893 4602

: Align holes of flange (2), slide flange (2) over assembly sleeve (1) and fit

: Remove the assembly sleeve (1)

– Insert and tighten the screws


5.4 Shroud

– Remove the spark plug

: Unscrew twist locks (arrows) – loss-proof screws

: Unscrew slotted nut (1) and remove shroud (2)

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2

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12

: Pull out twist locks (1)

: Fit shroud (2) so that the ignition lead and insulating tube are seated in the guide (arrow)

: Screw in slotted nut (1) and tighten

: Screw in twist locks (2) and tighten


2

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27

5.5 Cylinder

Before removing the cylinder, decide whether or not the crankshaft is to be removed.

With cylinder installedThe crankshaft must be prevented from twisting by blocking the piston through the spark plug hole in order to remove the flywheel and clutch.

With cylinder removedThe crankshaft is blocked by placing the piston on the piston support in order to remove the flywheel and clutch.



– Remove filter base, b 10.2


– Remove the muffler, b 5.1

– Remove the decompression valve, b 5.9

: Remove washer (1) and sleeve (2)

Press out manifold flange in the direction of the cylinder

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2

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28

: Unscrew pan head screws through the holes (arrows)

: Carefully remove cylinder (1) by pressing the manifold flange (2) out of the tank housing

: Remove the cylinder gasket (1)

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– Examine the intake elbow (1), replace if necessary. Engine operation may be impaired even by the slightest damage, b 3.7

: Undo screw (2) and remove intake elbow (1)

– Clean the sealing faces, b 12

The mating surfaces must be in perfect condition and without any damage whatsoever. Parts with damaged mating faces must be replaced.

Always use a new cylinder gasket after removing the cylinder.

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2

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Installation

– Apply STIHL press fluid to the inside of the intake elbow, b 12

: Push intake elbow (1) onto the intake stub so that the tab (2) on the right rests against the raised part

: Push on hose clip (3) – the screw head (4) must align with the cooling fin (arrow)

: Tighten screw (4) as far as possible

: Align new cylinder gasket (1) so that the embossing faces upwards

: Guide new cylinder gasket (1) over the piston so that the tab (2) faces the guard

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: Align piston support (1) 5910 893 5300 so that the recesses (arrows) engage over the flange, then push between piston and crankcase

Avoid damage to the cylinder gasket.

– Coat piston, piston rings and inside of cylinder with oil, b 12

– Ensure that piston rings are correctly positioned, b 5.8

: Use the clamping strap (1) 0000 893 2600 to compress the rings around the piston

The clamping strap (1) must be fitted in such a way that the piston rings do not protrude beyond the piston sides.

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: Orient cylinder (1) so that the intake elbow (2) faces the tank casing

When fitting the cylinder over the piston, ensure that the clamping strap securely encloses the piston and that none of the piston rings protrudes – danger of breakage.

: Slide cylinder over piston; the clamping strap is removed at the same time

– Remove clamping strap and piston support

: Fit screws (arrows) and secure cylinder with gasket.

: Tighten the screws through the holes (arrows) crosswise

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29

Always fit new ball bearings and oil

: Place a piece of string (1) around the manifold flange and guide through the opening on the tank housing

Ensure that the cylinder gasket is correctly positioned.

: Push on cylinder (2) as far as it will go and fit manifold flange (3) onto tank housing

– Apply STIHL press fluid to the outside of the manifold flange, b 12

– Push tank housing towards the cylinder and hold in place

: Pull the manifold flange (1) through the hole with the ends of the string (2)

– Remove the string

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: Orient the manifold flange (1), – the openings must rest against the studs (2)

: Fit washer (3) and push sleeve (4) into the opening of the intake elbow (1)


5.6 Crankshaft

– Empty the fuel tank, b 1.1

– Remove front handlebar, b 8.2

– Remove the flywheel, b 6.5

– Remove short circuit wire, b 6.6.3

– Remove clutch, b 4.2

– Remove flange and replace oil seal, b 5.3.1

– Remove chain tensioner, b 4.4

– Remove guard, b 8.3

– Remove cylinder, b 5.5

– Remove piston, b 5.7

– Remove tank housing, b 10.8.3

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2

3 4

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seals when removing the crankshaft, b 5.6.1 and b 5.3.

Clutch side half of crankcase

: Undo screws (1) and remove flange (2)

The tools from the assembly tool kit 5910 007 2206 are used for removal and installation.

: Unscrew the screws (arrows)

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: Insert three M5 x 72 screws (3)

: Unscrew spindle (1) until it no longer rests on the crankshaft stub

: Push assembly tool (2) from kit 5910 007 2222 onto the studs (arrows), twist on and tighten the nuts

: Turn spindle (1) clockwise until the crankshaft stub has been forced out of the ball bearing

– Replace ball bearings and oil seals, b 5.6.1 and b 5.3

Ignition side half of crankcase

: Remove the gasket (1)

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Washer 5910 893 2101 without holes "28" can be reworked as illustrated with 5.5 mm holes.

Dimensions are given in millimeters.

The drilled plate is shown from above in the illustration.

The tools from the assembly tool kit 5910 007 2201 are used for removal and installation – use washer 5910 893 2101.

: Unscrew the spindle (1) so that the disk (2) rests against the half of the crankcase.– Left-hand thread

: Align the assembly tool with the washer (2) 5910 893 2101 against the ignition-side half of the housing so that the edge number "28" (arrow) is at the bottom

5,0

19,8

32,8

40,0

86,5¡

20,2

40,6

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through the holes marked "28" and screw them as far as possible into the crankcase half

: Turn the spindle (1) counterclockwise until the crankshaft has been forced out of the ignition-side half of the crankcase

Crankshaft, con-rod and the needle bearing between them form a complete unit which must always be replaced as such.

– Check the two halves of the crankcase and the ball bearing, replace if necessary, b 5.6.1

– Before installation, clean the crankshaft, b 12

Installation

Ignition side half of crankcase


31

– Align the crankshaft with the The crankshaft also turns when it is

– Heat the inner race of the ball bearing to approx. 160 °C (320 °F)

: Align the crankshaft with the conical stub (arrow) facing the ignition-side ball bearing and push it as far as it will go.

The crankshaft must be fitted rapidly, as the heat is transmitted to the crankshaft stub and the inner bearing race contracts.

If the inner race cannot be heated, the crankshaft can be drawn into the crankcase with the assembly tool 5910 007 2201 – use washer 5910 893 2101.

: Screw the threaded sleeve (1) 5910 893 2420 onto the completely screwed in spindle as far as it will go

Coat the conical crankshaft stub with oil.

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conical stub facing the ignition-side ball bearing and push it home.

: Fit the screw sleeve (2) over the thread of the conical crankshaft stub (1) and screw it on

: By turning the spindle (1), position washer 5910 893 2101 against the ignition-side half of the crankcase and orient it so that the edge number "28" is at the bottom

: Insert M5x72 screws (2) through the holes marked "28" – anti-twist device

: Turn the spindle (1) clockwise

– Draw the ignition-side half of the crankcase in as far as possible

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drawn in with the installing tool. For this reason, ensure that the rod eye (3) always faces upwards towards the cylinder.

– Remove the assembly tool

: Screw two screws (1) M5x72 into the holes on the ignition side – for guidance and to prevent twisting

: Fit new gasket (2) and secure it at the guide sleeves

– Coat the cylindrical crankshaft stub with oil

Clutch side half of crankcase


Examine and clean the mating surfaces of the clutch-side half of the crankcase (including the cylinder sealing surface) – the sealing face must not display any signs of damage.

2

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– Coat the cylindrical crankshaft

Ensure that the guide sleeves (arrows) align with the holes and that the housing gasket is not jammed or buckled.

– Heat the inner race of the ball bearing to approx. 160 °C (320 °F)

– Align the crankcase half with the cylindrical crankshaft stub and the two screws and position it

: Push the crankcase home until it makes contact

The crankcase must be fitted rapidly, as the heat is transmitted to the crankshaft stub and the inner bearing race contracts

If it is not possible to heat the inner race, the crankcase half is drawn in with the assembly tool from kit 5910 007 2206.

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stub with oil

– Align the crankcase half with the cylindrical crankshaft stub and the two screws and position it

– By turning it, screw the spindle completely into the assembly tool

: Screw the threaded sleeve (1) 5910 893 2409 onto the spindle as far as it will go – Left-hand thread

: Fit threaded sleeve on crankshaft stub (arrow) and push assembly tool over the studs

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: Hold crankshaft (1) steady and screw threaded sleeve onto thread of crankshaft stub by turning the spindle (2)

– Release crankshaft (1) and hold assembly tool steady and continue turning the spindle (2) until the assembly tool rests against the crankcase half.

– Screw nuts onto the studs and tighten it by hand

: Turn spindle (2) counterclockwise until the crankcase half rests against the guide sleeves

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– Examine and install the piston, Examine both halves of the

Ensure that the guide sleeves (arrows) align with the holes and that the housing gasket is not jammed or buckled.

– Continue turning the spindle of the assembly tool until the gap between the halves of the crankcase is closed

– Unscrew nuts.

– Turn the spindle clockwise to remove the assembly tool

– Remove the two M5x72 screws which were fitted to prevent twisting

: Insert the screws (arrows) and tighten them crosswise

– Install oil seals, b 5.3

– Fit flange with new oil seal, b 5.3.1

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b 5.7

– Examine and install the cylinder, b 5.5


5.6.1 Ball bearing / crankcase

The two halves of the crankcase can be replaced individually if they are defective.

Examine and clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves (including the cylinder sealing surface) – The mating surfaces must be without any damage whatsoever.

New crankcase halves are delivered with the relevant components pre-assembled– see spare parts list.

Those parts which are not supplied with the new crankcase must be removed from the old crankcase halves, examined and replaced if necessary.

When fitting a new crankcase, the machine's serial number must be stamped on the crankcase with 2.5 mm figure stamps.

If the old crankcase is reused, the oil seals and ball bearings must be replaced, all gasket residues removed and the mating surfaces cleaned thoroughly. The mating surfaces must be absolutely flawless and clean to guarantee a perfect seal.

crankcase for cracks and check all mating surfaces for signs of damage.

– Refer also to troubleshooting, b 3.7

– Remove crankshaft, b 5.6

Ignition-side half of the crankcase

: Carefully drive the oil seal out with a punch

: Examine and clean the crankcase half, replace if necessary

– Replace the ball bearings if the crankcase half is in good condition.

– Heat the area around the bearing seat to approx. 160 °C (320 °F)

The bearing drops out of its own accord when this temperature is reached.

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Installation – Replace the ball bearings if the – Remove flange, b 5.3.1


– Position ball bearing so that the open side (balls visible) faces the inside of the crankcase

: Press the ball bearing home as far as possible

The ball bearing must be fitted rapidly, as it absorbs heat and expands.

– Check that the ball bearing is seated properly, if necessary, use press arbor 1120 893 7200 to press the ball bearing fully home

Clutch-side half of the crankcase

The oil seal is seated in the ball bearing and does not need to be removed separately.

– Examine and clean the crankcase half, replace if necessary

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crankcase half is in good condition.


The bearing drops out of its own accord when this temperature is reached.

Installation

Because the clutch-side half of the crankcase does not have a fixed bearing seat, the flange must be fitted first – the flange acts as a stop

– Fit flange without installed oil seal, b 5.3.1


– Position ball bearing so that the centering ring (arrow) points towards the flange

: Press ball bearing fully home (flange)

The ball bearing must be fitted rapidly, as it absorbs heat and expands.

– Check that the ball bearing is seated properly, if necessary, use press arbor 1118 893 7200 carefully press in the ball bearing until it rests against the flange

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– Install crankshaft, b 5.6

– Install oil seals, b 5.3

– Fit flange with new oil seal, b 5.3.1


5.7 Piston

Before removing the cylinder, decide whether the crankshaft is to be removed, b 5.6

– Remove cylinder, b 5.5

The clutch-side snap ring does not need to be removed.

: Prise the hookless snap ring on the ignition side out at the recess (arrow)

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35

Installation

: Push the assembly drift (1) 1108 893 4700 through the installed snap ring

: Push the piston pin (2) out of the piston with the assembly drift (1) 1108 893 4700

If the piston pin is stuck, tap the end of the drift gently with a hammer to loosen it. The piston must be held steady during this process to ensure that jolts are not transmitted to the connecting rod.

– Remove the piston

– Examine the piston rings, replace if necessary, b 5.8

: Take out the needle bearing (1), examine and clean it, replace if necessary

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– Coat needle bearing with oil and slide it into the rod eye

: Line up the piston so that the arrow (arrow) in the piston base points towards the exhaust port

The assembly drift (1) can be inserted through the fitted snap ring.

– Position the piston on the rod eye

: Push the assembly drift (1) 1108 893 4700 with the stub end first through piston hole and rod eye (needle cage) and secure the piston

: Coat the piston pin (2) with oil

: Fit the piston pin (2) on the stub of the assembly drift (1) and slide it into the piston

– Use the assembly tool 5910 890 2212 to prepare the snap ring for installation

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The snap ring must be fitted so that the gap in the ring (arrow) points upwards in axial direction of the piston.

: Assembly tool 5910 890 2212 with the taper sleeve (flat face facing upwards) on the piston boss, hold the piston steady and press the tool shank home until the snap ring slips into the groove

The tool must be precisely aligned in axial direction of the piston pin.

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5.9 Decompression valve

– Examine the piston rings, replace if necessary, b 5.8

– Install the cylinder, b 5.5


5.8 Piston rings

– Remove piston, b 5.7

– Remove piston rings from piston

: Use a piece of old piston ring to scrape the grooves clean (arrows)

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: Align the new piston rings so that the radii at the ends of the ring (arrows) face upwards

– Carefully slide the piston rings over the piston – danger of breakage

: Position the piston rings so that the radiuses at the ring gaps encircle the fixing pins in the piston grooves

Check the correct installed position of the piston rings again

– Install the piston, b 5.7


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: Unscrew decompression valve (1)

: Examine the sealing cone (arrow) on the decompression valve for signs of damage

– Use a new decompression valve if the sealing cone on the decompression valve does not seal tightly or is damaged.

– Fit the decompression valve by hand and screw it in

– Screw the decompression valve tight


1

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6. Ignition system

Exercise extreme caution while 6.2 Ignition module : Disconnect the ground wire (1)
carrying out maintenance and repair work on the ignition system. The high voltages which occur can cause serious or fatal accidents.
Troubleshooting on the ignition system should always start with the spark plug, b 3.5


The electronic ignition system basically consists of an ignition module (1) and flywheel (2).

6.1 Ignition timing

Ignition timing is fixed and cannot be adjusted during repair work.

Since there is no mechanical wear in these systems, ignition timing cannot get out of adjustment during operation.

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The ignition module accommodates all the components required to control ignition timing. There are two electrical connections on the coil body:

– High-voltage output (1) for the ignition lead

– Connector tag (2) for the short-circuit wire

Testing of the ignition module is limited to a spark test. A new ignition module must be installed if no ignition spark is obtained (after checking that the wiring and stop switch are in good condition).


– Remove filter cover and pull off spark plug boot, b 4.2

: Unscrew the screws (arrows)

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1

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1

– Remove the ignition module.

: Unlock the plug (1) of the short circuit wire and pull off

: Unhook short circuit wire (2) on cable holder (3)

: Slide grommet away from ignition module and unscrew ignition lead

A new ignition module is delivered with ignition lead, grommet and cable holder.

– Inspect cable holder, replace if necessary

: Drive cable holder (1) out with a suitable punch

– Reassemble parts in reverse order

– Examine spark plug boot and ignition lead, replace if necessary, b 6.4

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1

3

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: Position ground wire (3) and : Turn the flywheel until the raised

– Before twisting in the ignition lead, fill the high-voltage output with STIHL multi-purpose grease, b 12

Do not use either graphite grease or silicone insulating paste.

– Screw the ignition lead into the ignition module – protective tube and grommet must be pressed onto ignition lead

: Push on the grommet (1)

Grommet (1) must be pushed on fully to avoid faults on the ignition system caused by dirt or moisture.

The short circuit wire and ground wire are run below the ignition lead

: Position ignition module (1) and insert screws (2) – do not tighten

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insert screw (4) – do not tighten

: Fit connector (5) of short-circuit wire (6) with the crimped side facing the ground wire

: Press short-circuit wire (6) into the cable holder (7) so that there is no tensile load – Connector tab and blade receptacle must run parallel to the edge of the ignition module

: Push back ignition module and slide setting gauge (1) 1111 890 6400 between the legs of the ignition module and the magnetic pole of the flywheel

Shown without setting gauge for a better view.

: Push back ignition module (1) and hold in place – flywheel must turn freely

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part of the magnet poles (arrows) is on the ignition module – Setting gauge is pressed in during the process

: Press and hold the ignition module (1) against the setting gauge

: Tighten screws (1) and pull out setting gauge

: Align cable lug (arrow) of the ground wire (2) so that the distance to the blade receptacle and housing wall is the same, hold in place and tighten screw (3)

– Check correct functioning – Turn the flywheel: it must not touch the ignition module

NS

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3

1

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39

– Reassemble remaining parts in – Before starting the test, check

The compensation for longitudinal movement of the short-circuit wire (1) is between the crankcase and the cable holder of the ignition module

: Press short-circuit wire (1) into the guide (2) – the protective tube (3) must be flush with the fin (arrow)

: Position insulating tube (1) so that it rests against the grommet (arrow)

Protective tube (1) with ignition lead must be in the guide (arrow) when the shroud is fitted.

– Fit the shroud, b 5.4

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reverse order

6.3 Testing the ignition module

Before starting the test, install a new spark plug.

The engine may start and accelerate during the test.

– Test the ignition module using either the ZAT 4 ignition system tester 5910 850 4503 or the ZAT 3 ignition system tester 5910 850 4520.

If a spark is visible, the ignition system is in order.

– If no spark is visible in the spark window, check the ignition system with the aid of the troubleshooting chart, b 6.7

The ignition test refers only to a spark test, not to the ignition timing.

6.3.1 Testing the ignition module with engine analyzer MDG 1

The STIHL MDG 1 is used to easily, reliably and quickly test the ignition module.

The following is tested during the test run:

– Ignition voltage

– Spark

– Short circuit

– Remove filter cover and air baffle – secure air filter with slotted nut

spark plug, replace if necessary – use only spark plugs recommended by STIHL

: Install engine analyzer MDG 1 between spark plug and spark plug boot– Ground clips must rest against the hexagon of the spark plug

– To diagnose the GS 461, select "Other STIHL products". Then start the "Diagnosis" function and follow the steps of the diagnostic software.

For an accurate result, crank the engine quickly with the rewind starter.

The engine may start and accelerate during the test.

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6.4 Spark plug boot / ignition – Cut new ignition lead to the
lead
– Remove the ignition module, b 6.2

: Pull grommet (1) off high-voltage output (arrow)

: Unscrew ignition lead (2) from the ignition module and pull grommet (1) off ignition lead

: Remove the cover (3) from the spark plug boot

: Use suitable pliers to pull the torsion spring out of the spark plug boot

– Unhook the torsion spring from the ignition lead

– Pull the boot off the ignition lead

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specified length, see spare parts list

Installation

– With an ignition module, use a pointed tool to pierce the center of the lead's insulation approx. 15 mm from the end of the ignition lead

: Pinch the hook of the torsion spring into the center of the ignition lead (arrow) where it has been pierced

– Coat the inside of the spark plug boot with STIHL press fluid, b 12

: Push the ignition lead and torsion spring into the spark plug boot

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: Ensure that the torsion spring (arrow) is located in the recess

: Slide the cover (1) over the spark plug boot

– Use a pointed tool to pierce the other end of the ignition lead, which is to be connected to the ignition module.

– Before twisting in the ignition lead, fill the coil tower with STIHL multi-purpose grease, b 12

Do not use either graphite grease or silicone insulating paste.

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– Push grommet (1) onto ignition lead

– Screw the ignition lead into the ignition module.

: Push on the grommet (1)

– Install the ignition module and adjust the air gap between ignition module and flywheel, b 6.2


6.5 Flywheel



– Block the piston with the locking strip, b 4.2

: Unscrew the flywheel nut (1)

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: Screw puller (1) 1110 890 4500 as far as it will go into the flywheel

: Turn screw (2) clockwise until the flywheel comes off the crankshaft stub

– Unscrew puller (1) 1110 890 4500 from flywheel

: Flywheel and magnet poles (arrows) must not show any signs of damage or blue discoloration, otherwise the flywheel must be replaced

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: Check the woodruff key (1), replace if necessary

: Make sure that the woodruff key (1) is properly seated, align if necessary

Connection between crankshaft and flywheel must be degreased and oil-free

If the groove is worn (arrow), replace the flywheel.

Ensure that the woodruff key engages in the groove (arrow).

– Adjust the air gap between ignition module and flywheel, b 6.2


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6.6 Wiring harness The ground wire must also be 6.6.2 Ground wire

Ground wire and short circuit wire are combined into one wiring harness.

6.6.1 Testing

Check the short circuit wire if the spark plug and ignition lead with spark plug boot are in order.


: Pull short-circuit wire (1) out of the cable holder (2)

: Remove connector (3)

: Connect the ohmmeter to ground (4) and the short circuit wire (1)

– Set Master Control lever to "0"

The resistance measured must be approx. 0 Ω. If it is much higher, the reason is a break in the wire and the wiring harness must be replaced, b 6.6.

– Set Master Control lever to "F"

The resistance measured must be infinitely high, otherwise replace the wiring harness, b 6.6.

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GS 461

tested for contact and continuity.

If the ground wire is damaged, the wiring harness must also be replaced.

– If no fault can be found, test the ignition system in accordance with flow chart, b 6.7

: Fit connector (3) of short-circuit wire (1) with the crimped side facing the ground wire

: Press short-circuit wire (1) into the cable holder (2) so that there is no tensile load – Connector tab and blade receptacle must run parallel to the edge of the ignition module

The compensation for longitudinal movement of the short-circuit wire (1) is between the crankcase and the cable holder of the ignition module

: Press short-circuit wire (1) into the guide (2) – the protective tube (3) must be flush with the fin (arrow)

– Install starter, b 7.2

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Functioning of the short circuit wire may be impaired or made impossible by a damaged ground wire.

The ground wire is incorporated in the wiring harness of the short-circuit wire, if it is damaged, replace the whole wiring harness.

– Perform contact and continuity test on ground wire, replace wiring harness if necessary

6.6.3 Wiring harnessRemoval and installation


– Unplug the spark plug boot



: Press out grommet (1) in the direction of the cylinder and pull out wiring harness (2) in the direction of the cylinder

: Pull grommet (1) off wiring harness


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: Pull fuel suction hose (1) out of the guide (arrow) and set it aside

: Press out bushing (1) in the direction of the carburetor space and pull out wiring harness (2) in the direction of the carburetor space

– Remove switch shaft, b 9.1.1

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: Pull off blade receptacle (1) and pull wiring harness out of the guides (arrows)

– Check contact spring and switch housing, replace if necessary, b 6.6.4

– Examine wiring harness, replace if necessary

Installation

: Push wiring harness (1) with protective tube (2) in front through the hole (arrow) towards the cylinder

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12

– Use STIHL press fluid to simplify assembly, b 12

: Press the bushing (1) into the hole so that the wires run horizontally in the bushing

The bushing (1) must enclose the hole completely on the opposite side.

: Push wiring harness as far as it will go into the protective tube (2) towards the bushing

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GS 461

: Push grommet (1) onto wiring

: Press short-circuit wire (1) into the guides (arrows)

: Press ground wire (2) into the guides (arrows)

Route wires parallel so that they do not cross.

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Crimped side of the blade receptacle (1) must face the switch shaft bearing.

: Push blade receptacle (1) of ground wire (4) onto the contact spring (2)

: Push in short-circuit wire (3) and ground wire (4) between fin (arrow) and housing wall – Short-circuit wire (3) must be routed below the ground wire (4)

– Install switch shaft, b 9.1.1

: Check correct functioning – The eyelet (1) of the short-circuit wire must touch the contact spring (arrow) in position "0"

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harness (2)

– Install tank housing, b 10.8.3

: Push fuel suction hose (1) into the guide (arrow) and press between the wires and the collar (2) of the intake elbow mount – fuel suction hose is secured

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Installation

Grommet (1) must be pushed on.


: Push wiring harness (2) through the opening and press grommet (1) completely into the opening

: Pull wiring harness (2) further in until the start of the protective tube is at the fin (arrow)

– Install ignition module, b 6.2


6.6.4 Contact spring

– Remove throttle rod, b 9.3

– Remove switch shaft, b 9.1

– Remove ground wire

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: At the recess (arrow), lift tab (1) until the peg no longer engages in the housing wall and pull out switch housing (2)

: Lift contact spring (1) over the tab (arrow) and pull out of guide

– Check contact spring and switch housing, replace if necessary

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: Push contact spring (1) into the guide so that the connector tab (2) faces upwards – contact spring (1) must be behind the tab (arrow)

: Push switch housing (1) into the guide (arrows) until the peg of the tab (2) engages in the hole of the housing wall – switch housing is secured

– Install switch shaft, b 9.124

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Crimped side of the blade receptacle (1) must face the switch shaft bearing.

: Push blade receptacle (1) of ground wire (4) onto the contact spring (2)

: Push in short-circuit wire (3) and ground wire (4) between fin (arrow) and housing wall – Short-circuit wire (3) must be routed below the ground wire (4)

: Install switch shaft, b 9.1.1

: Short-circuit wire (1) and ground wire (2) must be between the fin (arrow) and housing wall, push in completely if necessary – Short-circuit wire (1) must be routed below the ground wire (2)

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6.7 Troubleshooting, ignition system

Engine does not run

Master Control lever:– in position "F"?

Check spark plug:– Smeared with oil, black?

– Sooted?– Electrode gap correct?

– Contacts shorted (threads)?– Clean, adjust or replace spark plug,

b 6.3

Check spark plug boot:– Firmly seated on spark plug (torsion

spring)? – Torsion spring hook in center of ignition

lead?– Spark plug boot damaged?

– Replace spark plug boot and/or torsion spring if necessary,

b 6.4

Check ignition:with ZAT 3 or ZAT 4

(use ZAT 3 as main spark gap TI 32.94), alternatively check with MDG 1

b 6.3, b 6.3.1

1

48 GS 461

Check flywheel: – Have pole shoes turned "blue"?– Replace flywheel if necessary,

b 6.5

Air gap: – Check ignition module / flywheel,

– adjust if necessary, b 6.2

Check ignition lead: – Severe chafing?

– Spark plug boot: Holes / cracks?– Resistance of spark plug boot to ground:

Required 1.5...12 kΩ – Ignition lead fully twisted into the ignition

module?– Check resistance of spark plug lead to

ground, (spark plug boot and ignition module have been removed) Value: Required < 10 Ω,

Replace spark plug boot and / or ignition lead or ignition module if necessary,

b 6.4

Check short circuit wire:

– Wire damaged?– Plug connections firmly seated?

– Check continuity, replace wiring harness if necessary, b 6.6.1

1

3

yes

no

2

Powerful spark?

49GS 461

buretor

sel on

Engine runs smoothly,troubleshooting procedure completed

no

Replace ignition module.

b 6.2

yes

no

– Look for fault in fuel or carsystem

– Check engine for leak– Check position of flywhe

crankshaft,b 5.2, b 6.5

yes

Switch shaft Check correct operation:– Short circuit wire chafed?

– Function between contact spring and eyelet on the switch shaft:

– Position "F" = no connection– Position "0" = connection

– Replace short circuit wire or contact spring if necessary, b 6.6.3

2 3

Powerful spark?

Is engine running?

50 GS 461

7. Starter

7.1 General 7.2 Starter Installation

If the action of the starter rope becomes very stiff and the rope rewinds very slowly or not completely, it may be assumed that the starter mechanism is in order but plugged with dirt. At very low outside temperatures, the lubricating oil on the rewind spring may thicken and cause the spring windings to stick together. This has a detrimental effect on the function of the starter mechanism.

To clean the rewind spring, it is sufficient to apply a few drops of a standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons to the rewind spring.

Carefully pull out the starter rope several times and allow it to rewind until its normal smooth action is restored.

Before installing, lubricate the rewind spring and starter post with STIHL special lubricant, b 12.

If clogged with dirt or pitch, the entire starter mechanism, including the rewind spring, must be removed and disassembled. Take particular care when removing the rewind spring.

– Clean all components

GS 461

Removal and installation

: Remove screw (1) and screws (arrows)

– Lift hand guard slightly and remove starter


7.3 Pawls


– Relieve the tension of the rewind spring, b 7.4

: Carefully ease the spring (1) off the starter post

– Remove pawls

1

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: Push new pawls onto the shafts (arrows) and coat pegs (1) with STIHL grease, b 12

: Fit spring (1) so that the rings (arrows) run along the pawls and enclose the pegs (2)

Check correct functioning

– Pull starter rope, the rope rotor turns, and the pegs of the pawls move in the direction of the anchor loops – the pawls move outward


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7.4 Rope rotor

Relieve tension of rewind spring

The system will not be under tension if the starter rope or rewind spring is broken.


– Pull the starter rope tensioned with the starter grip out slightly and hold the rope rotor tight

: Unroll starter rope (2) from rope rotor (1) – hold the rope rotor tight

: Pull out the twisted starter rope (2) towards the starter grip and straighten it out

: Keep the starter rope (2) tensioned and carefully release the rope rotor

– Remove pawls, b 7.3

12

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The rewind spring must be relieved.

: Remove washer (1) and carefully remove rope rotor (2)

– Remove starter rope on the rope rotor, remove any remaining scraps of rope if necessary or replace starter rope, b 7.5

: Examine the sealing ring (1) and sealing lip of the spring housing (2), replace if necessary

– Examine the return spring, replace if necessary, b 7.7

Installation

– Coat the sealing ring, sealing lip of spring housing and the whole length of the starter post with STIHL special lubricant, b 12

– Install starter rope in rope rotor, b 7.5

2

1

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: Fit the rope rotor on the starter post so that the inner loop of the spring (arrow) enters the recess (1) – the sealing lip of the spring housing must enclose the rope rotor hub

– Fit the washer

– Install pawls and spring, b 7.3

– Tension the rewind spring, b 7.6

– Coat the shafts and pegs of the pawls with STIHL grease, b 12


7.5 Starter rope / starter grip

– Remove starter and segment, b 7.2

– Relieve the tension of the rewind spring, b 7.4

The rewind spring will not be under tension if the starter rope is broken.

– Remove any remaining rope from the rope rotor if necessary

The starter rope must not be shortened.

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Hold the tensioned rope rotor firmly,

: Push starter rope (1) out a short distance, undo the knot and pull out

: Prise out nipple (1) and pull starter rope (2) out of the starter grip

– Check starter rope, replace if necessary

Installation

: Thread the new starter rope into the starter grip from above, then press nipple (1) into the starter grip until it engages

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: Then thread the starter rope (1) through the opening (arrow) and into the rope rotor

: Tie a simple knot in the end of the starter rope (1) to secure it and pull it into the rope rotor

– Tension the rewind spring, b 7.6


7.6 Tensioning the rewind spring


: Pull out part of the starter rope (1)

: Make a loop in the unwound starter rope (1) and use it to turn the rope rotor six full revolutions in the direction of the arrow

1

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as the rewind spring will be damaged if it jumps back suddenly.

: Pull out the twisted starter rope (1) towards the starter grip and straighten it out

: Keep the starter rope (1) tensioned and carefully release the rope rotor

The rewind spring must sit firmly in the rope guide bushing. If it tips: increase the spring tension by another turn.

It must be possible to turn the rope rotor another half-turn when the starter rope has been drawn out completely. Otherwise the spring tension must be reduced – danger of breakage.

Reduce spring tension

Hold the rope rotor tightly and remove one turn of the rope from the rotor.

– Install starter, b 7.2

7.7 Replacing the rewind spring


– Remove starter and segment, b 7.2

– Relieve the rewind spring if necessary and remove the rope rotor, b 7.4

A worn rewind spring may still be under tension while installed.

53

– Remove frame, keep if The rewind spring must sit

: Unscrew screws (1) and carefully remove spring housing (2) – rewind spring can pop out

– Remove any fragments of the old spring

: Check sealing lip (4) and rubber seal on the inside of the spring housing (2), replace spring housing if necessary

: Examine sealing ring (3), replace if necessary

Installing new rewind spring

– Lubricate replacement spring with frame with a few drops of STIHL special lubricant before installing it, b 12

: Position replacement spring with frame in the fan housing and press into in the mount (arrow) – the outer anchor loop must be over the mount for the loop (1)

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necessary

The rewind spring must sit completely in the mount or mount for the loop, if necessary, press completely into the mounts.

Reinstalling a rewind spring that has popped out

If the rewind spring pops out during installation, fit it in the fan housing as follows:

: Arrange the rewind spring (1) as shown in the illustration

: Insert outer anchor loop in the recess (arrow) of the fan housing

: Fit the rewind spring (1) in a circular fashion, working in clockwise direction

– Hold the inserted loops securely to prevent them slipping out again.

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completely in the mount or mount for the loop, if necessary, press completely into the mounts.

– Coat the rewind spring with a few drops of STIHL special lubricant, b 12

: Coat the sealing ring (3), sealing lip (4) of spring housing and the whole length of the starter post with STIHL special lubricant, b 12

: Position spring housing (2) so that the protrusion (5) is over the mount for the loop



1

24 3

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8. Antivibration elements

The front handle / tank housing and Installation
engine housing are connected by vibration-damping spring and stop buffers.
Damaged ring buffers must be replaced as a matter of principle.

8.1 Ring buffer fuel tank / clutch side

– Remove chain sprocket cover

: Pry out plug (1)

: Remove screw (1) and prise out ring buffer (2)

– Examine the ring buffer, replace if necessary

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: Orient ring buffer (1) – smaller diameter points toward the crankcase


: Press ring buffer (1) into the hole until the groove (arrow) completely encloses the ridge (2)

– Insert and tighten the screw

– Press plug into the ring buffer as far as it will go


8.1.1 Ring buffer fuel tank / ignition side


1

2

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: Push ignition lead (1) slightly to the side

: Unscrew screw (2) and remove the sleeve (3) and hose

: Unscrew screws (4) and remove ring buffer


– Check sealing plug on the tank housing / check carburetor space, replace if necessary

Installation

: Align ring buffer (1) with the tapered side facing the crankcase and fit

– Make sure that the ignition lead is seated in the guide and does not become jammed


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8.1.2 Ring buffer guard / clutch


: Push the ring (1) onto the sleeve (2) as far as it will go

– Fit tank housing on ring buffer – the holes must line up

: Push sleeve (1) with ring into the ring buffer, screw in screw (2) and tighten


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side

: Unscrew screw (1) and remove side plate (2)

: Pry out plug (1)



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: Remove rubber ring (1) from stop dome of the tank housing and push through the hole (arrow) of the crankcase

– Check rubber ring, replace if necessary

Installation


: Push rubber ring (1) through the hole (arrow) of the crankcase and press as far as it will go onto the stop dome of the tank housing

Rubber ring must not become jammed between the ring buffer and tank housing.

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GS 461

: Push rubber ring (1) through the


: Press ring buffer into the hole with the smaller diameter (1) pointing towards the housing until the groove (arrow) is completely flush with the ridge (2)


– Press plug into the ring buffer as far as it will go


8.1.3 Ring buffer guard / ignition side

– Remove guard, b 8.3

: Pry out plug (1)

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GS 461



: Remove rubber ring (1) from stop dome of the tank housing and pull through the hole (arrow) of the crankcase

– Check rubber ring, replace if necessary

Installation


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hole (arrow) of the crankcase and press as far as it will go onto the stop dome of the tank housing

Rubber ring must not become jammed between the ring buffer and tank housing.


: Press ring buffer into the hole with the smaller diameter (1) pointing towards the housing until the groove (arrow) is completely flush with the ridge (2)


Rubber ring (1) must be fitted between the tank housing and crankcase.


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8.1.4 Stop buffer on clutch side – Reassemble remaining parts in The conical peg must enclose the


: Press out stop buffer (1) from the outside inwards

– Examine the stop buffer, replace if necessary

Installation

: Align stop buffer so that the peg (1) faces the opening (arrow) of the tank housing


: Push stop buffer into the mount and press the peg (1) into the opening until it completely encloses the opening (arrow)

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reverse order

8.1.5 Stop buffer on ignition side



: Push the stop buffer (1) out

– Examine the stop buffer, replace if necessary

Installation


: Align the stop buffer (1) with the smaller conical pegs (arrow) facing the crankcase and press into the hole by turning slightly

1

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hole completely on the ignition side.


8.2 Handlebar

: Remove screws (1) on the bottom of the tank housing and remove the support (2)

: Undo screws (1) and remove handlebar (2)

Installation

– Coat screws for fastening the handlebar with Loctite, b 12

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2

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GS 461

– Check guard, replace if

: Fit handlebar (1) on the bottom of the tank housing into the handle mount (arrow)

: Orient support (1) on the bottom of the tank housing so that it engages with the recess (arrow) in the tab (2)

: Screw in screws (1) on the bottom of the tank housing

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: Position handlebar (1) on the side handle mount (arrow)

: Screw in screws (2)

– Tighten all 4 screws

8.3 Guard

– Remove side plate, b 8.1.2

: Prise out plug (1) and pull out tab (2)

: Pull guard (1) out of the mounts (arrows) and remove

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2 124

11R

A094

TG

1

necessary

Installation

– Use STIHL press fluid to simplify the following assemblies, b 12

: First, press the bottom stud (1), then the top stud (2) completely into the mounts

: Press in tab (1) between the housing fins and press the plug (2) on the ignition side into the opening (arrow) so that the profiles engage with each other


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8.4 Rubber buffers / support 8.4.1 Water hose Installation

: Push out rubber buffer (1) to the side

– Examine rubber buffer, replace if necessary

Installation

– Use STIHL press fluid to simplify the following assemblies, b 12

: Push rubber buffer (1) with the rubber tab into the guide until the lug (arrow) protrudes – lug stops the rubber buffer from sliding out

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: Apply a screwdriver to the hose clips (arrow) and turn slightly to open the clip

: Remove water hose (1) at both connectors and remove hose clips

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: Guide water hose (1) through the opening in the support (2)

: Fit hose clip (3) and push water hose (1) as far as it will go onto the connector (arrow)

: Fit hose clip (1) and push water hose (2) as far as it will go onto the connector (arrow)

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: Align hose clips (1) on both connectors and press the tabs (arrows) together until they engage – make sure hose is not twisted when secured

8.4.2 Shut-off cock

– Remove water hose, b 8.4.1

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: Push hexagonal socket wrench SW 4 into the connector (1) and unscrew connector (1) – Push in hexagonal socket wrench along the whole length of the connector

– Pull out shut-off cock

: Check shut-off cock (1), unscrew hose connection (2) if necessary, replace sealing ring (3) and O-ring (4)

Installation

: Slide shut-off cock (1) into the mount on the support (2)

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: Fit connectors (1), screw in with hexagonal socket wrench SW 4 and tighten– Push in hexagonal socket wrench along the whole length of the connector

– Fit water hose, b 8.4.1

8.4.3 Support

– Remove support from handlebar, b 8.1.2

: Apply a screwdriver to the hose clip (arrow) and turn slightly to open the clip.

: Pull water hose (1) from connector

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Installation

: Unscrew screw (1), lift support (2) in the area of the shut-off cock (3) and push out to the rear

– Examine the support, replace if necessary – Reconfigure shut-off cock, rubber buffer and water hose if necessary

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: Position support (1) with the tab (2) on the base of the rear handle (3) and fit

: Push support (1) as far as it will go towards the guard, then press in the direction of the clutch side until the lugs engage

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– Fit water hose, b 8.4.1

– Fit support on handlebar, b 8.1.2

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9. Actuating levers

9.1 Master Control lever

The positions of the Master Control lever are described in the Instruction Manual.

9.1.1 Removal and installation


– Remove throttle rod, b 9.3

: Set the switch shaft (1) to "0"

: Prise out switch shaft (1) on the bearing (arrow) and carefully pull off from switch housing (2) – Short-circuit wire (3) is still fitted to switch shaft (1) and must not be damaged

: Pull short circuit wire (1) out of the guides (arrows)

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: Lift eyelet (1) of the short-circuit wire over the guide (2) and pull out

– Check the switch shaft, replace if necessary

Installation

: Push eyelet (1) onto the peg (2) so that the crimped side (arrow) faces in

: Place eyelet (1) in guide (3)

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: Guide short-circuit wire (1) so that it lies snug around the switch shaft (2) and press or hook into guides (arrows) – short-circuit wire (1) must be snug against the switch shaft (2)

: Orient switch shaft (1) so that the lever (2) faces the carburetor

: Lift contact spring (3) slightly and push switch shaft (1) with the bearing journal (4) into the hole (arrow) of the switch housing

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: Position screwdriver at the tab (1) and press switch shaft (2) into the guide (arrow) until it engages

: Short-circuit wire (1) and ground wire (2) must be between the fin (arrow) and housing wall, push in completely if necessary – Short-circuit wire (1) must be routed below the ground wire (2)



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9.2 Throttle trigger / trigger interlock

– Remove air filter, b 10.1

– Open the throttle wide and hold, then unhook throttle rod from throttle trigger

: Unscrew screw (2) and remove handle molding (1) – The trigger interlock (arrow) may pop out.

: Pull trigger interlock (1) out of the bearing points (arrows)

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: Drive pin (1) out with punch (2) and remove throttle trigger (3) with torsion spring

– Examine trigger interlock, throttle trigger and torsion spring, replace if necessary

Installation

: Hook the torsion spring (1) into the throttle trigger (2)– Note the installed position (arrow)

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: Turn throttle rod (1)

: Insert throttle trigger (1) in the handle so that the holes on the throttle trigger and handle line up

: Center throttle trigger (1) with punch (2) and drive in pin (3) until it is equidistant on both sides

: Press end of the torsion spring (1) toward the handle

: Position trigger interlock (2) so that the limit stop (3) engages in the throttle trigger

: Hook the torsion spring (1) onto the trigger interlock

: Press the trigger interlock (2) into the bearing points (arrows) until it clicks into place

The trigger interlock may pop out.

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: Hook handle molding (1) with theHook tabs (2) into the openings (arrow) and fit in position


– Open the throttle wide and hold, then hook throttle rod into throttle trigger – throttle trigger must only turn if the trigger interlock is pressed

– Check correct functioning– Press throttle trigger down completely, the lever on the carburetor must be at full throttle and must not move any further in open direction


9.3 Throttle rod


– Remove handle molding, b 9.2

– Open the throttle wide and hold, then unhook throttle rod from throttle trigger

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counterclockwise and unhook from throttle trigger (2) of the carburetor

– Remove throttle trigger with bushing and baffle

– Examine the individual parts, replace if necessary

Installation

: Guide throttle rod (1) with the square part (arrow) from the bottom through the bushing (2)

: Press studs (1) into the hole of the baffle

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: Push baffle (1) with bushing (2) and throttle rod (3) over the studs and position

: Hook throttle rod (1) clockwise into the lever (arrow) of the throttle shaft

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: Push the bushing (1) into the mount (arrow) and position

– Open the throttle wide and hold, then hook throttle rod into throttle trigger – throttle trigger must only turn if the trigger interlock is pressed

– Check correct functioning– Press throttle trigger down completely, the lever on the carburetor must be at full throttle and must not move any further in open direction


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10. Fuel system

10.1 Air filter : Pull hose (4) off connector

Dirty air filters reduce engine power, increase fuel consumption and make starting more difficult. The air filter and auxiliary filter should be checked when there is a noticeable loss of engine power.

– Refer also to Troubleshooting, b 3.6, b 3.7

– Loosen slotted nut and remove filter cover

– Pull off air filter and auxiliary filter

– Check the air filter and clean or replace if necessary – see Instruction Manual

– Check auxiliary filter, replace if necessary – the auxiliary filter cannot be cleaned


10.2 Filter base

– Remove air filter, b 10.1

: Unscrew nuts (1) and pull off flange (2)

Switch shaft (3) must be set to cold start.

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(arrow) and remove filter base (5) via the stud bolts

Installation

Sleeve (1) must be in place and bushing (2) must engage in baffle (3).

Switch shaft (1) must be set to cold start.

: Guide filter base (2) over the stud bolts (3), push hose (4) completely onto the connector (arrow) and fit filter base (2)

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4

: Guide flange (1) over the stud bolts (arrows) and position so that the stud bolt (2) faces upwards

: Tightly screw on nuts (3)


10.3 Carburetor

– Open filler cap and drain fuel tank

– Collect fuel in a clean container, b 1


– Remove baffle with throttle rod, b 9.3

The fuel hose may only be removed when the tank filler cap is open.

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: Push fuel hose (1) and impulse hose (2) back slightly – Fuel hose and impulse hose are released

: Push out bushing (1) and pull off carburetor (2)

– Examine the carburetor and repair or replace it if necessary

– Check sleeve, remove and replace if necessary

Installation

Washer (1) and sleeve (2) must be in place.

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: Press carburetor (1) over the studs (arrows) – sleeve (2) must be in place

Fuel hose must be located in the mount (arrow).

: When fitting, make sure that the connectors are pushed into the fuel hose (1) and impulse hose (2)

– Install throttle rod and check operation, b 9.3

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: Press bushing (1) into the holes of the handle housing until the rubber strips fully protrude on the opposite side

– Install filter base, b 10.2

– Install air filter, b 10.1

– Check correct functioning


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10.3.1 Leakage test If this pressure remains constant,

The tank vent must also be checked and replaced if problems develop with the carburetor or fuel supply, b 10.7

The carburetor can be tested for leaks with the pump 0000 850 1300.


: Push the fuel line (1) 1110 141 8600 onto the double connector (2) 0000 855 9200 and then push onto the fuel port (3)

– Push pressure hose of the pump 0000 850 1300 onto the double connector

: Push ring (1) to the right and pump air into the carburetor until the pressure gauge (2) shows a pressure of approx. 0.8 bar (80 kPa)

31

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the carburetor is airtight. However, if the pressure drops, this may have the following three causes: 1. The inlet valve is not sealing

(foreign objects in the valve seat,

sealing cone of the inlet needleis damaged or inlet control lever is sticking), remove to clean, b 10.4.2 or b 10.7.1

2. Metering diaphragm or gasket is damaged, replace if necessary, b 10.4.1 or b 10.7.1

3. Pump diaphragm or gasket damaged, replace if necessary, b 10.4.3

or b 10.7.1

– After completing the test, slide ring (1) to the left and vent the system, then disconnect fuel line from elbow connector of carburetor

– Install filter base, b 10.2


10.4 Repairing the carburetor

10.4.1 Metering diaphragm



– Check sleeve, remove and replace if necessary

: Unscrew the screws (1) and remove the end cover (2)

If the gasket and diaphragm are stuck to the carburetor, they must be removed very carefully

: Carefully separate the metering diaphragm (1) and gasket (2)

The diaphragm material is subjected to continuous alternating stresses and eventually shows signs of fatigue. In other words, the diaphragm distorts and swells and must be replaced.

– Examine the metering diaphragm for signs of damage and wear, replace the gasket.

2

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1

1

219R

A21

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Installation

Note the order in which the gasket (1) and metering diaphragm (2) are installed.

: Align the gasket (1) and metering diaphragm (2) so that the pins (arrows) engage in the holes

: Align the end cover (1) so that the connector (arrow) points towards the choke shutter

: Align the end cover (1) until the holes engage in the pins (2)

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70

: Fit and tighten screws (1)

– Check that the metering diaphragm and gasket are correctly seated, then tighten the screws crosswise

– Push sleeve onto the connector


10.4.2 Inlet needle

– Remove the metering diaphragm, b 10.4.1


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: Pull the inlet control lever (1) with spindle (2) out of the groove in the inlet needle

The spring under the inlet control lever may pop out.

: Pull out the inlet needle (2)

: Take out and examine the spring (1), replace if necessary

: The sealing cone of the inlet needle must be replaced if a circular indentation (arrow) is visible on its tip.

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A348

TG

GS 461

Installation

10.4.3 Pump diaphragm

: Fit the inlet needle (1)

: Fit spring (2) in bore

: First fit the spindle (2) of the inlet control lever (3) at the conical seat (arrow) of the spring, then slide the clevis on the inlet control lever into the groove on the inlet needle (1)

Ensure that the spring locates on the nipple of the inlet control lever.

– Press the inlet control lever down and secure it with the screw.

– Check that the inlet control lever moves easily

– Install the metering diaphragm, b 10.4.1

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: Unscrew the screw (1) and remove the end cover (2)

If the gasket and pump diaphragm are stuck to the carburetor, they must be removed very carefully.

: Carefully remove pump diaphragm with gasket

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: Carefully separate pump diaphragm (1) and gasket (2)

The diaphragm material is subjected to continuous alternating stresses and eventually shows signs of fatigue. In other words, the diaphragm distorts and swells and must be replaced.

– Examine the pump diaphragm for signs of damage and wear, replace the gasket.

– Inspect the fuel strainer for contamination and damage, clean or replace it if necessary.

: Pull the fuel strainer (1) out of the carburetor body with a needle and clean or replace it


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71

Installation 10.4.4 Adjusting screws

: Fit new gasket (1) so that the contours line up with the end cover (2) and engage in the pegs (3)

: Place pump diaphragm (1) onto the gasket so that the tab (arrow) is on the same position as with the gasket and engages in the peg (2)

Gasket and pump diaphragm are now secured.

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: Position the end cover (1) on the carburetor housing from below so that the gasket and pump diaphragm remain secured to the end cover

: Orient end cover (1) so that the tabs (arrow) are in the opposite direction to the starter shaft lever

: Move the end cover (1) back and forth slightly until the pegs on the end cover engage in the holes in the carburetor housing

– Check that the pump diaphragm and gasket are correctly seated



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1

There are three adjusting screws on the carburetor: – Adjusting screws (1) and (2) with mounted limiter capsH = High speed adjusting screw (1)L = Low speed adjusting screw (2)LA = Idle speed adjusting screw (3)

If the carburetor setting can no longer be adjusted, this may also be due to the adjusting screws.

The high speed screw H and low speed screw L have limiter caps which must be removed before removing the adjusting screws.

Always use new limiter caps.


– See also Troubleshooting on the carburetor, b 3.6

H

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L

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LA

GS 461

Low speed adjusting screw

: Screw puller (1) 5910 890 4500 about 5 turns into the limiter cap – Left-hand thread

Do not turn puller (1) any further – Low speed adjusting screw Lcan be damaged.

: Turn limiter cap with the puller in a clockwise direction until the ridge (2) or screw slot aligns with the groove (1)

The dot on the limiter cap must be lined up with the mark (arrow).

– Pull out limiter cap

– Unscrew low speed screw L

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GS 461

: Examine the tip (arrow) for signs of damage or wear. Fit a new low speed adjusting screw L if necessary.

: Examine O-ring (1), replace if necessary

– Turn the low speed adjusting screw L in as far as possible

– Continue with the high speed adjusting screw H

High speed adjusting screw

: Screw puller (1) 5910 890 4500 about 5 turns into the limiter cap – Left-hand thread

Do not turn puller (1) any further – High speed adjusting screw Hcan be damaged.

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: Check alignment of limiter cap, turn with the puller in an anticlockwise direction until the ridge (2) or screw slot aligns with the groove (1)

The dot on the limiter cap must be lined up with the mark (arrow).

– Pull out limiter cap

– Unscrew high speed adjusting screw H

: Examine the tip (arrow) for signs of damage or wear. Fit a new high speed adjusting screw H if necessary.

: Examine O-ring (1), replace if necessary

: Turn the high speed adjusting screw H in as far as possible

– Continue with "Fitting the limiter cap"

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Fitting the limiter caps – Examine the spark arresting 10.5.2 Adjustment

: Press new limiter caps (1) onto the hole in the adjusting screw until they engage the first position (arrow) – do not push them down fully

If screwdriver 5910 890 2304 is not available, the basic setting must be made without fitting the limiter caps.

– Make the "basic setting", b 10.5.1

10.5 Carburetor adjustment

10.5.1 Basic setting

Only necessary if the high speed adjusting screw H or low speed adjusting screw L has to be replaced or for cleaning and setting the carburetor.

The basic setting must always be made after removing the limiter caps.

– Install carburetor and air filter – The adjusting screws must be pre-set and the new limiter caps must be fitted

– Check chain tension, adjust if necessary

134

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A325

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74

screen (present only in some countries); clean or replace it if necessary, b 3.7 or b 5.1

– Check the air filter and clean or replace if necessary, b 10.1

Adjusting screws on disassembled carburetor shown for a better view.

: Push screwdriver (1) 5910 890 2304 through the pre-fitted limiter caps of the high speed adjusting screw H and low speed adjusting screw L

: Unscrew high speed adjusting screwH counterclockwise by 1 1/2 revolution out of its seat

: Unscrew the low speed screw L counterclockwise by 1 revolution out of its seat

– Continue with "Adjustment", b 10.5.2

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– Push screwdriver5910 890 2304 through the bushing and pre-fitted limiter caps of the high speed adjusting screw H and low speed adjusting screw L

Set speed with speed tester or engine analyzer STIHL MDG 1 (select from software "Other STIHL products" / "Tachometer"). Set the specified speeds within the tolerance range of ± 200 rpm.

To allow the engine to warm up, there are the following options:

1. with cut-off chain and guide bar if water supply possible

2. without cut-off chain and guide bar if water supply not possible

– Start engine and allow to warm up for 1 minute with load change.

GS 461

Setting idle speed – Check the air filter and clean or

Set idle speed with fitted guide bar and cut-off chain.

For the short time it takes to set the idle speed, the machine can be used without water supply. During the time it takes to set the idle speed, the guide bar and cut-off chain must be sufficiently coated with STIHL multispray – The cut-off chain must not run dry, repeat the STIHL multispray process if necessary

1. Turn thelow speed adjusting screw Lleft or right to set the highestspeed

If the highest set speed is between 2900 1/min and 3100 1/min, continue with step 3.

If the highest set speed is outside of the speed range of 2900 1/min and 3100 1/min, continue with step 2.

2. With the idle speed screw LAset the speed to 3000 rpm and start again withstep 1

3. With the low speed adjusting screw L

set the speed to 2500 rpm

4. Unscrew high speed adjustment screwH

clockwise by 1 1/2 revolution out of its seat

– Continue with "Securing the limiter caps"

GS 461

: Insert a suitable punch through the holes (arrow) of the bushing and press the limiter caps fully home

Now the basic setting of the high speed adjusting screw H and the low speed adjusting screw L has been established and secured.

10.5.3 Standard setting

The limiter caps (1) must not be removed when making the standard setting.

To avoid problems, the following steps must be performed for all settings:


– Check chain tension, adjust if necessary

– Examine the spark arresting screen (if installed); clean or replace it if necessary, b 3.7 or b 5.1

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replace if necessary, b 10.1

Standard setting

– Switch off the engine

– Carefully turn the high speed adjusting screwH counterclockwise as far as possible, max 3/4 turn

– Carefully turn the low speed adjusting screwL clockwise as far as possible, max 3/4 turn, then back by 1/4 turn

Check running behavior:The engine must accelerate well when the throttle is opened and idle smoothly.

Setting the idle speed

– Adjust to standard setting

– Let the engine warm up

Engine stops when idling

– Turn the idle speed screw LAclockwise until the cut-off chain runs as well, then turn back by 1 1/2 turn

Cut-off chain runs when idling

– Turn the idle speed screw LAanticlockwise until the cut-off chain stops, then turn back by 1 1/2 turn

75

Erratic idling behavior, poor 10.6 Intake elbow
acceleration(despite low speed screw = 1/4)
Idle setting is too lean.


– Turn the low speed adjusting screw L counterclockwise until the engine runs smoothly and accelerates properly.

The setting of the idle speed screw LA must usually also be adjusted whenever the setting of the low speed adjusting screw L has been corrected.

Correcting the carburetor setting for use at high altitudes

If the engine does not run satisfactorily, a minor correction may have to be made.

– Check the standard setting


– Turn the high speed adjusting screw H slightly clockwise (leaner), but no further than the stop.

The screws should be adjusted as little as possible. The slightest adjustment produces a tangible difference in engine behavior.

If you make the setting too lean it will increase the risk of engine damage through lack of lubrication and overheating.

After descending from a high altitude, set carburetor setting back to "Standard setting".

76

A damaged intake elbow may lead to impaired engine performance, b 3.7.

– Troubleshooting, b 3.6 or b 3.7



– Unscrew screws of ring buffer and loosen tank housing, b 10.8.3


: Press the manifold flange (1) out of the tank housing (2) by hand in the direction of the cylinder

: Pull tank housing (2) out slightly – when pulling out the tank housing, make sure that the wiring harness is not exposed to tensile loads

1

2

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: Loosen screw (1) and push hose clip over intake elbow towards tank housing

: Pull intake elbow (1) off the intake fitting (arrow)

– Examine intake elbow and replace if necessary. The slightest damage may lead to impaired engine performance, b 3.7

The mating surfaces must be in perfect condition and without any damage whatsoever. Parts with damaged mating faces must be replaced.

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Installation – Examine the impulse hose and

– Fit intake elbow to cylinder, b 5.5

– Apply STIHL press fluid to the outside of the manifold flange, b 12

: To pull in the manifold flange (1), place a string (2) that is approx. 15 cm long around the manifold flange and feed through the hole in the tank housing

– Press tank housing against the manifold and hold in place



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: Orient the manifold flange (1), – the openings (arrows) must rest against the studs (2)

: Fit washer (3) and push sleeve (4) into the opening of the manifold flange (1)



10.6.1 Impulse hose

A damaged impulse hose may lead to impaired engine performance.



: Press impulse hose (1) out of the tank housing in the direction of the cylinder

1 2

2

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replace it if necessary,

– Coat new impulse hose on the conical outside with STIHL press fluid, b 12

: Push impulse hose (1) through the hole (arrow) and press in until the rubber lip encloses the hole completely

: Align impulse hose (1) so that the flange with the rounded side (arrow) faces upward

– Install tank housing, to do so, push impulse hose on the connector, b 10.8.3



1

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10.7 Tank vent Testing with gauge pressure : Check hose (1), remove if

10.7.1 Testing

If problems develop in the carburetor or fuel supply, the tank vent must always also be tested and replaced if necessary. Correct functioning is determined by testing the fuel tank with negative pressure or gauge pressure via the fuel suction hose.

– Open filler cap and drain fuel tank, b 1

– Close the filler cap


Testing with negative pressure

: Push the connector (1) 0000 855 9200 with hose (2) into the fuel suction hose

: Slide ring (3) to the left and connect the pump (4) 0000 850 1300 to the hose (2) – Create vacuum in fuel tank

Pressure is equalized via the tank vent. A negative pressure must not build up inside the tank.

– Clean the area around the tank vent

– Replace the tank vent or tank housing if necessary, b 10.7 or b 10.8.3

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: Slide ring (1) to the right and connect the pump (2) 0000 850 1300 to the double connector (arrow) – create excess pressure in fuel tank

– Actuate the pump until the pressure gauge shows a pressure of 0.5 bar. If this pressure remains constant for at least 20 seconds, the tank and tank vent are airtight. If the pressure drops, the leak must be located and the faulty part replaced.


10.7.2 Removal and installation

– Remove the air filter cover, b 10.1

: Pull the hose (1) off the connector (arrow) on the tank vent

2

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necessary from connector of filter base and replace

: Push new hose (1) onto connector of filter base

: Pry out the tank vent (1) via the mounting rib (arrow) – always use new tank vent

Installation

– Wet O-ring of new tank vent with STIHL press fluid, b 12

– Press new tank vent in by hand until you hear it click into place and push hose onto connector of tank vent


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10.8 Fuel intake : Pull off pickup body (1) and Installation

10.8.1 Pickup body

Very fine dirt particles in the fuel can clog the pores of the filter. This reduces the intake diameter and fuel can no longer be delivered in sufficient quantities.

Always check the fuel tank and pickup body first if problems develop in the fuel supply.

– Troubleshooting, b 3.6 or b 3.7

Clean the fuel tank if necessary.

– Open the filler cap and drain the tank.

– Fill a little clean gasoline into the tank, close the tank and shake it thoroughly.

– Reopen the tank and empty it

– Ensure that the fuel is disposed of correctly and without harming the environment, b 1

– Open the filler cap

: Use hook 5910 893 8800 to pull the pickup body (1) out of the fuel tank

Take care not to overextend the fuel hose.

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examine it, replace if necessary


10.8.2 Fuel hose

– Open the filler cap


– Remove pickup body, b 10.8.1

: Pull the fuel suction hose (1) from the guide (arrow)

– Feed through lever tool below the wires

: Pry out the fuel suction hose (1) and pull out of the inside of the tank

– Examine the fuel suction hose, replace if necessary

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– Push the fuel suction hose (1) into the hole in the fuel tank

: Align fuel suction hose (1) so that the straight side (arrow) of the flange faces the housing wall, then press fully into the hole

Do not damage wires of wiring harness.

: Push fuel suction hose (1) into the guide (arrow) and press between the wires and the collar (2) of the intake elbow mount – fuel suction hose is secured

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: Use hook 5910 893 8800 to pull the fuel suction hose (1) out of the fuel tank

Take care not to overextend the fuel suction hose.

– Fit the pickup body, b 10.8.1

– Close the filler cap


10.8.3 Tank housing

– Empty the fuel tank, b 1



– Unscrew the ring buffer screws,"Ring buffer fuel tank / clutch side", b 8.1,"Ring buffer fuel tank / ignition side", b 8.1.1,"Ring buffer guard / ignition side", b 8.1.3, "Ring buffer guard / clutch side", b 8.1.2

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: Press the manifold flange (1) out of the tank housing (2) by hand in the direction of the cylinder

– Pull tank housing out by approx. 30 mm

: Disconnect the impulse hose (1) from the connector (arrow)

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: Press out grommet (1) in the direction of the cylinder and pull out wiring harness (2) in the direction of the cylinder

: Pull out the tank housing (1) and examine it, replace if necessary

Those parts of the old tank housing which are not supplied with the new tank housing must be reused – see spare parts list.

– Reconfigure the front handle, b 8.2

– Reconfigure the switch shaft, b 9.1

– Reconfigure the front handle, b 6.6

– Reconfigure the interlock lever and throttle trigger, b 9.2

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Installation : Align impulse hose (1) so that the

: Push rubber ring (1) with inside diameter 12 mm and rubber ring (2) with inside diameter 18 mm onto the stop domes (arrows)

: Push tank housing (1) with the narrow part (2) first between the crankcase halves as far as it will go onto the intake elbow

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Grommet (1) must be pushed on.


: Push wiring harness (2) through the opening and press grommet (1) into the opening until it encloses the opening on both sides

: Pull wiring harness (2) in until the start of the protective tube is at the fin (arrow)

: To pull in the manifold flange (1), place a string (2) that is approx. 15 cm long around the manifold flange and feed through the hole in the tank housing

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flange with the rounded side (arrow) faces upward

– Push tank housing towards the cylinder and hold in place



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: Orient the manifold flange (1), – the openings (arrows) must rest against the studs (2)

: Fit washer (3) and push sleeve (4) into the opening of the manifold flange (1)

: Press tank housing (1) in the direction of the cylinder until the holes line up with the ring buffers

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3 4

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The rubber rings (1) and (2) must be between the tank housing and the crankcase.

– Insert and tighten the screws of the ring buffers,"Ring buffer fuel tank / clutch side", b 8.1,"Ring buffer fuel tank / ignition side", b 8.1.1,"Ring buffer guard / ignition side", b 8.1.3, "Ring buffer guard / clutch side", b 8.1.2


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11. Special tools

New special tools

Existing special tools

No. Designation Part No. Use Remarks

1 Set of tools 3/8" G 5805 007 1001 Unrivet and rivet cut-off chain

- Insert 3/8“ Bursting of segments

- Die Unriveting of tie straps

2 Service tool kit AS 5910 007 2222 Removal and installation of crankshaft (clutch side)

3 Support mounting kit 5910 850 1651 Clamping machine to assembly stand

4 Piston support 5910 893 5300 Positioning piston

5 Installing tool 5910 893 9601 Removing and installing collar nuts on chain sprocket cover


1 Carburetor and crankcase tester

0000 850 1300 Test crankcase and carburetor for leaks

- Connector 0000 855 9200 Testing carburetor for leaks

- Hose for leakage test 1110 141 8600 Testing carburetor for leaks

- Plug for leakage testing 1122 025 2200 Testing decompression valve for leaks

2 Sealing plate 0000 855 8106 Checking crankcase does not leak

3 Installing tool 0000 890 2201 Installation of starter rope guide bushing

4 Clamping strap 0000 893 2600 Tensioning the piston rings

5 Locking strip 0000 893 5903 Blocking the crankshaft

6 Bit T 27 x 125 0812 542 2104 Removing and installing spline socket head screws with electric or pneumatic screwdrivers; tightening down screws with torque wrench

7 Assembly drift 1108 893 4700 Removing and installing piston pins

8 Puller 1110 890 4500 Removing the flywheel

9 Setting gauge 1111 890 6400 Setting the air gap between ignition module and flywheel

10 Press sleeve 1115 893 4600 Pressing in oil seal(Ignition side)

11 Assembly tube 1117 890 0900 Hooking in clutch spring

12 Press sleeve 1118 893 2401 Pressing in oil seal(Clutch side)

13 Assembly sleeve 1118 893 4602 Protection of the oil seal(Clutch side)

14 Press arbor 1118 893 7200 Pressing in ball bearing (clutch side)

83GS 461


15 Press arbor 1120 893 7200 Pressing in ball bearing (ignition side)

16 Combination wrench 1129 890 3401 Spark plug 1)

17 Service tool ZSincluding Washer 5910 893 2103

5910 007 2201 Removal and installation of crankshaft (ignition side)

– Washer 5910 893 2101 Pulling together the crankcase

-Screw sleeve 5910 893 2420 Installing crankshaft

18 Engine analyzer STIHL MDG 1

5910 840 0200 Running motor diagnosis

19 Test flange 5910 850 4200 Leakage test

- Sleeves 5910 893 1701 Spacer sleeves for test flange

20 ZAT 4 ignition tester 5910 850 4503 Testing ignition system

21 ZAT 3 ignition tester 5910 850 4520 Testing ignition system

22 Torque wrench 5910 890 0302 Screw connections (0.5 to 18 Nm)

23 Torque wrench 5910 890 0312 Screw connections (6 to 80 Nm)

24 Assembly tool 12 5910 890 2212 Fitting hookless snap rings in piston

25 Screwdriver 5910 890 2304 Setting carburetor with limiter caps

- Setting washer 5910 893 6600 Supplement to screwdriver 5910 890 2304

26 Bit T 27 x 150 5910 890 2400 IS-P screws (4 mm)

27 Assembly hook 5910 890 2800 Detaching tension springs from clutch shoes

28 Stud puller M 8 5910 890 3000 Screwing in and tightening rail mounting studs

29 Assembly stand 5910 890 3101 Holding machine for servicing / repairs

30 Wiring tool 5910 890 4000 Installing electrical leads

31 Puller 5910 890 4400 Removing oil seals

- Jaws (with profile no. 3.1) 0000 893 3706 Extracting oil seal(s)

32 Puller 5910 890 4500 Pulling out limiter caps

33 Screw sleeve 5910 893 2409 for assembly tool kit AS 5910 007 2222 – Pulling together the crankcase

34 Stud puller, M8 5910 893 0501 Removing rail mounting studs

35 Socket, 13 mm, long reach 5910 893 2804 Removing and installing decompression valve

36 Assembly hook 5910 893 8800 Removing pickup body

Remarks:

1) Use only for releasing.

84 GS 461

12. Service accessories

No. Designation Part No. Use

1 Multispray (400 ml) 0730 411 7000 Lubricating, protects against corrosion

2 Grease (225 g tube) 0781 120 1111 Oil seals, sliding and bearing points

3 STIHL special lubricant 0781 417 1315 Bearing bore in rope rotor, rewind spring in fan housing

4 STIHL press fluid OH 723 0781 957 9000 Rubber elements, antivibration elements

5 STIHL multi-purpose grease 0781 120 1109 High-voltage output on ignition module

6 Medium-strength thread-locking adhesive (Loctite 242)

0786 111 2101

7 High-strength thread-locking adhesive (Loctite 270)

0786 111 2109

8 Very high-strength thread-locking adhesive (Loctite 648)

0786 111 2117

9 Standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons

Cleaning mating surfaces and the carburetor, cleaning the crankshaft stub and tapers in flywheel

85GS 461

englisch / english

0455 761 0123. VA0.E12. Printed in Germany

stihl gs 461...relevant spare parts list to check the part numbers of any spare parts required. a...

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