Safe startingNote: (M) = manicure; (P) = pedicure.� Prepare work area and client.� Complete record cards and check for

contra-indications.� Sanitise your hands using an anti-bacterial hand

wash.� Ask client to remove his or her jewellery and put

it away (M).� Sanitise the clients hands using an anti-bacterial

hand wash (M).

� Spray the client’s feet with anti-bacterial footspray.

� Practice point: Always cut and file toenailsstraight across, to prevent onychocryptosis.

Safe working1 Remove existing nail enamel.

2 Agree nail length and shape. Cut and file nailsof left hand/foot, checking with the clientthroughout. Toenails should be cut straightacross to avoid ingrowing nails.

Unit 4: Basic skills in beauty therapy 159

1 Soak foot in warm water. 2 File toenails. 3 Cut nails.

4 Apply cuticle cream. 5 Soak foot in warm water. 6 Apply cuticle remover.

7 Push cuticle back. 8 Use cuticle knife. 9 Apply rough skin remover.

10 Massage foot. 11 Massage calf. 12 Paint toenails.

Step-by-step procedure for a pedicure:

3 Apply cuticle massage cream with an orangewood stick from the back of your hand.

4 Place tips of fingers in warm water and repeatto other hand (M).

5 Place feet in a bowl of warm soapy water andsoak for 5 minutes (P).

� Practice point: As soon as you have finished withthe water bowl, clear it away to prevent spillages.

6 Soften hard skin on the feet with a foot fileand/or scrub (P).

7 Dry hands/feet thoroughly after soaking.

8 Apply a small amount of cuticle remover withan orange wood stick.

9 Use a tipped orange wood stick to gently push thecuticles back using small circular movements.

� Practice point: For hygiene reasons, always coverthe end of the orange wood stick with cotton wool.

10 Use a wet cuticle knife to free any cuticleadhered to the nail plate. Always keep theblade flat to the nail and facing away from thenail groove.

11 Use cuticle nippers to remove hangnails notsoft cuticle.

12 Remove debris with nail brush and repeat tothe other hand/foot.

13 Buff the nails to remove ridges.

14 Perform a hand and arm/foot and leg massage.

15 Squeak nails with enamel remover beforeapplying enamel. Always use a base coatfollowed by two coats of colour plus a top coat.

� Practice point: Massage procedures and benefitsare explored in Unit 9: Body massage (pages209–222).

Safe stoppingGive the client time and space to allow his or hernails to dry thoroughly.� Help your client on with his or her coat and shoes.� Check the client is satisfied with the treatment

and with the end result.� Offer home care advice and retail

recommendations.� Book your client’s next manicure/pedicure

appointment.

� Practice point: The treatment isn’t complete untilyou have given your client home care and retailadvice and booked his or her next appointment.

Special hand and foot treatments

Warm oil manicure

Oil can be warmed to aid its penetration into theskin. Ideal products to use for manicure are almond,olive, grapeseed or sunflower oils. Indications forwarm oil treatments are overgrown or split cuticles,dehydrated and/or brittle nails, and dry orchemically dehydrated skin. This is an idealtreatment for softening the skin around the nail andis therefore performed prior to cuticle work. It is notadvisable to carry out a warm oil treatment on thefeet in the salon as the client could slip. However,warm oil could be used on dry feet at home as amassage medium. For additional benefit to theclient, abrasive ingredients, such as bran or salt,could be added to the oil. When massaged over theskin this acts as an exfoliant, removing dry skin andstaining, and allowing further penetration of thewarm oil. � Practice point: Warm oil and paraffin wax can be

included as an intensive treatment for certainconditions or as a luxury treat for anyone!

160 Section 4: Practical skills in beauty therapy

A client attends for manicure treatment. Duringthe consultation you discover she has an allergyto lanolin. Her hands and nails are dry, withsome splitting, and her cuticles are overgrown.Complete a record card for your client whichcontains accurate, precise and reliableinformation. (D)

Assessment task 4.3

Application of warm oil to hands.

Safe working� Carefully place a small bowl of vegetable oil in a

larger bowl of very hot water.� Protect the work area and the client’s clothing

with towels and tissues.� Test the temperature of the oil on yourself and

your client.� After cutting and filing the nails, immerse the

fingertips in the warm oil to soak.� Remove excess oil (or use it to massage) and

carry out cuticle work.� It is best not to paint the nails as squeaking

would defeat the purpose of the treatment.

Paraffin waxParaffin wax is a traditional beauty therapytreatment still favoured by clients. In the salon itrequires the use of specialist equipment whichmelts the wax and maintains it at a specifictemperature of about 49°C. Paraffin wax causes alocalised increase in heat which means it has farreaching benefits for a range of clients. Indicationsfor use can broadly be divided into three categories:dry skin/nail conditions, relaxation, and sluggishphysiological disorders; these are summarisedbelow. Like warm oil, it is beneficial to use paraffinwax before cuticle work for dry skin conditions. As arelaxation or luxury treatment, paraffin wax can beused after the completion of cuticle work since it isusual in beauty therapy to perform the ‘nice bit’ atthe end of the treatment. Once again, squeaking thenails in preparation for painting may be detrimental.

Safe starting� Prepare all tools and materials.� Prepare the work area with one small towel and

one piece of couch roll for each hand/foot.� Line a metal bowl with two or three layers of

clingfilm.� Complete the manicure up to/after completion

of cuticle work.� Apply a generous amount of hand/foot lotion to

both hands/feet.� Pour about three-quarters of a ladle of wax from

the wax heater into the lined bowl.� Test the wax on yourself (inner forearm) and

your client (outer forearm) using a brush.

Unit 4: Basic skills in beauty therapy 161

Indications Benefits and effects

Cold hands/feet Penetration of heat causes local increase in skin temperature

Sluggish circulation Increases superficial blood circulation

Stiff, aching joints Heat penetration provides relief from discomfort

Dry, cracked skin/cuticles Aids penetration of nourishing products

Non-medical swelling Increases lymphatic circulation and reduces congested fluid

Sluggish appearance to skin Exfoliates dead skin cells and induces perspiration

Muscle tension Heat penetration encourages muscle fibres to relax

Uses of paraffin wax treatment on hands or feet:

Ladling melted wax from the wax heater into a linedbowl.