step 1 reprappro tricolour frame assembly - reprappro wiki
DESCRIPTION
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7/17/2019 Step 1 RepRapPro Tricolour Frame Assembly - RepRapPro Wiki
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10/11/13 RepRapPro Tricolour frame assembly - RepRapPro Wiki
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RepRapPro Tricolour frame assembly
From RepRapPro Wiki
Introduction | Frame assembly | Y axis assembly | X axis assembly | Z axis assembly | Heated bed assembly |
Extruder drive assembly | Hot end assembly | Wiring | Power supply | Commissioning | Printing |Multi‑colour/multi‑materials | Colour Printing - Slic3r | Colour Printing - RepRapPro Slicer | Maintenance |
Troubleshooting | Improvements
Contents
1 Goal
2 Tools
3 Frame triangles4 Cross bars
5 Put them all together
6 Z-motor mounts, diagonal, and power connector
7 Smooth rods
8 Aligning the frame
9 Frame finished
10 Next stage
Goal
By the end of this stage, your machine should look like this:
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Tools
You will need the following tools
M8 (13mm) spanner
Adjustable spanner
300mm RuleLasercut MDF Measuring template (supplied with kit)
(optional) Spirit level, cotton and Blu-tack
Frame triangles
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Item Quantity
370mm M8 rods 6
Printed frame vertex with foot 4
Printed frame vertex 2
Printed U clips 2
M8 nuts 28
M8 lock washers 28
Note that there are three types of printed U clips in your kit:
The ones on the left are the frame clips, the ones in the middle are the Z-drive flexible coupling clips, and the
ones on the right are the printed-circuit-board clips. For this step you want the ones on the left.
Split the components into two equal sets. The footed frame vertices are not all the same; there are two pairs.
For each frame triangle, use a pair of vertices with feet that point in different directions as shown below.
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Also, make sure you slide a belt clamp along the bottom M8 threaded bars between the frame vertices with
feet, with a lock washer and nut either side. The other nuts should also all have lock washers under them.
Loosely screw together each frame triangle.
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Make the gap between the frame vertices measured face to face next to where the nuts and washers tighten
about 290 mm.
Your kit has a template to make it easy to get these measurements right.
Don't tighten anything at this stage.
Cross bars
Item Quantity
330mm M8 rods 4
470mm M8 rods 2
Printed U clips 4
8mm bearings 2
M8 lock washers 24M8 nuts 26
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Assemble the bars as shown in the following picture:
NOTE: the 3rd and 5th bars (the ones with 608 bearings) are not quite the same! One does not have washers
around the bearing.
From top to bottom and left to right the sequences are:
1. Lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer 2. Lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer
3. Lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, U Clamp, lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, bearing, lock washer,
nut, nut lock washer, U clamp, lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer
4. Lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, lock washer,nut, nut, lock washer
5. Lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, U clamp, lock washer, nut, nut, bearing, nut, nut, lock washer, U
clamp, lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer
6. Lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer.
Put them all together
Item Quantity
M8 nuts 12
M8 lock washers 12
Slide all the cross bars into one of the triangles as shown below, and secure lightly with a locking washer and nut
on each rod end. Next slide the second triangle onto the other end of the cross bars; use a locking washer and a
nut on each rod end. The holes in the feet should line up to form an X as shown in red below.
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Using the numbers of the rods from Step 2:
At the top attach the two long Rods: 1 and 2.
Back top: Rod 3
Back bottom: Rod 4
Front top: Rod 5
Front bottom: Rod 6
Now go round the frame tightening everything up using two spanners. Tighten the triangles first, then the six bars
in the x direction.
Use the template to get the measurements right.
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Make the gap between the faces of the vertices on the triangles 290mm, as mentioned above. Make the gap in
the x direction between the faces of the vertices 273mm, along the length of each crossbar.
Get the two top rods even, with an equal amount projecting each side, then move the back one 5mm to the right
and the front one 5mm to the left.
Try to get the measurements accurate. But it is more important to get the lengths equal than to get them precise.
Z-motor mounts, diagonal, and power connector
Item Quantity
470mm M8 rods 2
Printed Z motor holders 2
Printed U clips 2
M8 nuts 16
M8 lock washers 14
M8 washers 10
XLR panel plug 1
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20mm M3 caps 2
M3 washers 2
M3 nuts 2
Put the two U clips on the bottom rods of the frame triangles roughly in the middle of their bars. Using a 470mm
rod, thread it through the two U clips, with a nut and lock washer each side. You may have to twist the rod to
get it through the U clips, using its thread to move it - it can be quite a snug fit. Secure the rod to the frame withanother lock washer and nut on the outside of each U clip.
Use nuts and lock washers to put two more U clips on its ends for the Z smooth rods, as shown below. Leave
all these loose.
The order of parts on the lower rod should be:
nut, lock washer, U clip (for z smooth rod), lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, U clip (frame), lock washer, nut
- (gap between frame triangles) - nut, lock washer, U clip (frame), lock washer, nut, nut, lock washer, U clip
(for z smooth rod), lock washer, nut
Next thread the base diagonal rod through two of the four feet. Put nuts and lock washers on it both inside and
outside each foot, but leave them lose.
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Put eight smooth washers on the top bars, with two on either side of each rod then put the Z motor mounts on.
Secure them with two nuts each, with one smooth washer and one lock washer. The smooth washer goes on the
clamp that will hold the Z rods. Tighten the other nuts against their lock washers, but leave the Z-rod-clamp nuts
lose.
Fit the XLR plug to the frame vertex at the rear right of the machine with the socked facing outwards, i.e. this is
the side with the nuts on the bottom bar and on the foot with the diagonal cross brace, using the M3 screws,
nuts and washers. The washers go under the nuts. Fit the plug so that the triangle formed by its three pins pointsupwards.
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Smooth rods
Item Quantity
400mm smooth rods (Y) 2
350mm smooth rods (Z) 2
If the ends of the rods are sharp or burred from cutting, use a file to smooth off the ends to give a small
taper/bevel/chamfer; 1mm is fine. Without it, there is a risk of unseating the balls inside linear bearings while
inserting the rods.
Check that the linear bearings slide smoothly on each of the smooth rods. The linear bearings may need a little
extra oil, and the smooth rod may need cleaning, for smooth running. The quick way to clean the smooth rod is
to put it in an electric drill, then use wire wool or a kitchen scourer on it while the drill turns the rod. Be careful
though!
Slide the Y rods through the U clamps. Adjust the U clamps on the left-hand Y rod so that there is a gap of
22mm between their nuts and the nuts on the left frame triangle. Adjust the right-hand Y rod U clamps so there
is 175mm between the rods. Lightly tighten the clamps on the rods.
Now slide the two Z smooth rods into place. Do not over-tighten the clamping nuts on the Z motormounts. The rods need to be held firm, that is all.
Aligning the frame
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Place the frame on a flat surface. Wooden furniture, by and large, is not flat. But thick kitchen worktops are
very flat.
Frame alignment order:
1. Check all triangle sides are equal
2. Check cross bars (between vertices of triangles) are all equal
3. Adjust base diagonal to square the base; you should be able to measure across the corners of the base
(upside down is easiest) - the red lines shown in the image here:
4. If the frame doesn't sit flat on the table (assuming a flat table) once you've done this, press the frame on the
corners that are high, so the base square does sit flat.
5. Use the supplied glass to check that the Y axis smooth rods are level with each other. The rods need to be
level, or the heated bed will not move in one plane only; one side will rise and fall as it move back and forth on
the Y axis. Place the glass on the rods, and see if the glass rocks. Use a piece of paper on each side, and at
each end, to check there is no gap between rod and glass. If the rods are not level, check your table is flat, that
nothing is caught under the footed vertices, and that the smooth rod bar clamps are evenly clamped. You will
have to remove the rods to fit the Y axis and bed, but this test will check that your construction is correct and
the frame is square. If you can't get the rods quite level, you may need to place a shim under one foot, like afolded piece of paper, to get the bed perfectly level. Leave doing this until later.
6. Square the Z rods front/back. Tie a piece of string quite tightly around the base of both Z rods, and measure
along the triangle bottom rod on each side to get the rods central. Equalise the length by moving the frame clip
along the triangle bottom rod.
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7. Square the Z rods left/right, using a set square. (you can put the glass on the Y rods diagonally to help)
8. Measure the distance between the Z rods top and bottom to check they are parallel
You can now tighten the M8 nuts along the bottom cross bar. You will have to remove the Z rods to fit the X
axis; only undo the outer nut on each side, you should then be able to put them back in without moving the frame
too much, though you may need to check it again after fitting the X axis.
You can revisit this checklist at any point during building and running your machine, to check your frame is still
square.
Frame finishedYou will now have an assembled RepRapPro Mendel frame (though the smooth Y rods and the bearings will
still be loose):
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Next stage
assemble the Y axis.
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