steffi jacket - make · adjust, if necessary, if your measurements differ from the burda...
TRANSCRIPT
1
Pattern Pieces 1 Middle Front Piece 2x 2 Side Front Piece 2x 3 Middle Back Piece 2x 4 Side Back Piece 2x 5 Front Trimming 1x 6 Back Trimming 2x 7 Lapel Collar 2x 8 Upper Sleeve 2x 9 Lower Sleeve 2x 10 Pocket 2x 11 Lining Pocket 2x Copy Paper with DinA4 Print: The pattern pieces are printed with a narrow border onto 36 pages. Wait until all pages are printed. Arrange the pages as depicted in the page with instructions on how to put the pages together. Cut the pages at the upper right edge along the narrow border. Start with the lower left page and glue the pieces together at the border lines. Choose the size of the patter according to the Burda measurement chart. The sizes for dresses, Blouses, Jackets and Coats are determined by the bust measurement, the sizes for pants and skirts are determined by the hip measurement. Adjust, if necessary, if your measurements differ from the Burda measurement chart. Cut the pattern pieces for your size.
2
Sizes 34 to 44 The buttonholes in part one are depicted for a size 32. For all other sizes, draw the top buttonhole at the same distance from the neckline edge as for a size 32. The bottom buttonhole is at the same spot for all sizes. Mark the other four buttonholes with equal space in between them. Lengthening or Shortening the Pattern Our cut is designed for a height of 168 cm. If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern at the lines that say, “shorten or lengthen here”. That way, the fit remains the same. How to shorten or lengthen your pattern Cut the pattern lines at the marked lines. (To avoid changing the shape of the pattern piece, it helps to draw a line perpendicular to the marked line , now you can adjust the pattern by moving the pieces along the perpendicular line) To lengthen: Push the pieces apart as far as necessary. To shorten: Push the pieces together as far as necessary. Adjust the side edges. Redistribute the buttonholes. Cutting out Fabric Fold(-----) means: This is the middle of a pattern pieces, not an edge or a seam. The piece is cut twice the size of the pattern; the fabric fold is the middle axis of the piece. The pattern pieces with interrupted outlines are placed onto the fabric with the printed side facing down. The cutting plans show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric. If fabric is not folded, pin the pattern pieces to the right side. If fabric is folded, pin the pattern pieces with the right side of the fabric facing inside. Pin pattern pieces on wrong side. Place cutting plan over the selvage, finally, cut with fabric not folded. Cut part 11 from the leftover lining. Seam and Hem Allowances are included in the pattern: 4 cm (1 ½ Inches) seam allowance at the side and middle back pieces and sleeves 1.5 cm (1/2 inch) at all other edges and seams Using Burda copy paper, transfer the lines and marking on the pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric. Instructions are included in the package.
3
Jacket Tip: When sowing with jeans fabric, use contrasting thread. Front Dividing Seams
1.) Place side front pieces right sides facing onto the middle front pieces. Pin Dividing seams (Seam number 1). Stitch.
Back Dividing seams are stitched the same way (Seam number 2).Place back pieces right sides facing, pin and stitch back middle seam. De-baste all seam allowances and finish. Pockets
2.) Stitch the lining pocket right sides facing onto the cut trimming, leaving about 5 Cm (2 inches) open for turning. Secure ends of seam. Iron seam allowances into the lining.
3.) Turn cut trimming outside. Stitch the lining pocket and the narrow edges of the trimming onto the pocket. Trim seam allowances, cut diagonally at edges. Cut in at rounded edges. Turn pocket. Pin edges. Iron. Sew open seam by hand.
4.) Pin pockets, attaching them at the base lines, onto the front pieces and stitch, allowing 0.5 cm (1/4 inch).
Shoulder Seams 5.) Place front pieces right sides facing onto the
back trimming, pin shoulder seams (Seam Number 3), the dividing seams meet. Stitch.
6.) Place front trimming right sides facing onto the back trimming, stitch shoulder seams (Seam number 4). Trim seam allowances and finish. De-baste inner trimming edge.
4
Lapel Collar/ Trimming 1.) Stitch the lapel collar with the lining right sides
facing onto the neck line (Seam Number 5). Stitch the lapel collar without the lining the same way. Trim seam allowances, cut in and finish.
2.) Pin trimmings with collar right sides facing onto the
front pieces and the collar. Pin edges onto another (Seam Number 5). Stitch, the collar base seams are meeting. Trim seam allowances, also at collar, and cut diagonally at edges.
3.) Turn collar. Turn trimmings inside. Pin edges, iron. Pin collar base seams onto another, stitch together with reverse stitches.
Side Seams Place the trimmings at the side seams pointing down. 10.) Place front pieces right sides facing onto the back piece, pin side seams (Seam number 6), stitch, continuously stitching the narrow trimming edges onto the back piece.
De-baste seam allowances and finish. Hem 11.) De-baste hem at the back piece. Turn hem and trimming side. Pin edges. Sew hem and trimmings at seam from hand with loose stitches. (11a) Sleeves 12.) Place lower sleeve right sides facing onto the upper sleeve, pin back seam (seam number 7) and stitch. Finish seam allowances. 13.) Lay pleats around the arm base coming from the right fabric side in the direction of the arrow, pin. 14.) To secure the arm base from dot symbol to dot symbol, stitch in two rows close to each other with wide stitches. Fold sleeves lengthwise, stitch front sleeve seams (Seam number 8), finish seam allowances. De-baste sleeve seam, turn inside and stitch, allowing 3 cm. (1 ¼ inches) Inserting Sleeves To maintain the shape of the arm base, lightly pull the botbbin thread of the stitching seams. 15.) Place sleeves right side facing onto opening, . When inserting sleeves, 4 spots are important to the fit: The horizontal lines 9 of the upper sleeves and front piece have to meet. The horizontal line of the bottom sleeve has to meet the side seam. The horizontal line of the arm base has to meet the shoulder seam. The width between the dots has to be distributed so that no pleats are created. Pin sleeves coming from the sleeve side and stitch. Iron seam allowances into the sleeves.
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168
36
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94
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88103
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8. Largo lateral
43,5
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168
74
92
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104
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168
33
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38
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40
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168
34
39 61
43
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cm
106
8
inches37 3/4
82
168
17 3/4
105
30
5
100
cm
cm
105
1818 1/2
36 1/434 3/4
englisch
3331 1/2
inches
español
50 1/2
for trousers and skirts according to hip
1. Height
2. Bust
3. Waist
4. Hip
measurem
ent!
question.
select size according to bust measurem
ent,F
or dresses, blouses, coats and jackets
All burda patterns are prepared w
ith easeallow
ance appropriate for style in
1. Estatura
2. Contorno busto
3. Contorno cintura
4. Contorno cadera
del pantalón
104
y chaquetas, se determina de acuerdo con
La talla para los vestidos, blusas, abrigos
caderas.E
n el patrón−B
urda se incluyen losm
árgenes para la holgura necesaria.
faldas, de acuerdo con el contorno de lasel contorno del busto. Los pantalones y las
168 1
français
les pantalons et les jupes dʼaprès votre
1. Stature
2. Tour de poitrine
3. Tour de taille
4. Tour des hanches
tour de hanches!
seront choisis dʼaprès votre tour de poitrineR
obes, corsages, manteaux et vestes
Tous les patrons sont établis avec lʼaisance
nécessaire selon le genre du modèle.
5. Long.du dos
8. Long.côté
740
86
661 110
7. Contorno cuello
6. Largo manga
18 1/4
5. Largo espalda
7. Tour de cou
9. Long. taille devant
6. Longueur de manche
pantalon
8. Side leg length
7. Neck w
idth
6. Sleeve length
5. Back length
Talla
Size
Taille
18 1/2
55 1/4
44
37
55
36 1/4
146
63
122
46
140
108
168
46,5
5860
42
38 3/4
36
54
140
63
116
45
134
107
168
46 56
47
40
41
35
53
43 1/2
134
62
110
44
128
106
168
45,5
54
168
38
34
52
128
62
104
43
122
106
168
45 52
108
36
33
51
122
62
9842
116
106
168
44,5
50
146
34
32
50
116
61
9241
110
105
168
44 48
47
128
63 152
56384631
32 11
3025
2926
cm28
27
3031
1029
2428
25cm
2726
4849
947
4246
43cm
4544
11. Cont. de brazo
10. Altura de pecho
9. Largo talle delantero
10. Profondeur
11. Tour du bras
de poitrine
11. Upper arm
circumf.
10. Bust point
9. Front w
aist length
45 1/248
34inches
910
1
2
4
3
32 1/230 3/4
2329 1/4
27 3/426
39 1/2
24 1/2
66 1/4
6045 1/2
4850 1/2
52 3/455 1/4
57 1/243 1/2
inches41 3/4
40 1/432 1/2
38 3/437
35 1/234
41
66 1/4
17 1/417 1/2
6
8
7
511
17
17 1/416 1/2
15 3/415
14 1/213 1/2
18 1/412 1/4
12 3/4
66 1/4
11 7/89 7/8
11 1/210 1/4
inches11 1/8
10 3/4
16 3/415 3/4
14 3/414 1/2
14 1/413 1/2
1312 3/4
1511 7/8
12 1/4
43 1/2
11 1/29 1/2
11 1/89 7/8
inches10 3/4
10 1/4
17 1/4inches
16 1/216 1/4
16 1/216
66 1/466 1/4
66 1/466 1/4
66 1/466 1/4
66 1/4
57 1/2
66 1/4
21 3/421 1/4
2120 1/2
20 1/419 3/4
22 1/419
19 1/4
45 1/2
18 1/216 1/2
18 1/417
inches17 3/4
17 1/4
66 1/4
40 1/440 3/4
inches40 1/4
4139 3/4
41
48
41 1/241 1/2
42 1/242 1/4
41 3/441 3/4
42 1/241 3/4
41 1/2
66 1/4
13 1/214 3/4
14 1/4inches
14 1/213
1515 1/2
50 1/2
15 3/418 1/4
17 3/417 1/4
1716 1/2
16 1/418 1/2
66 1/4
23 1/4inches
23 3/423 1/4
23 3/423 1/4
2424
52 3/4
2424 3/4
24 3/424 1/2
24 1/224 1/2
2424 3/4
66 1/4