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munity spirit and demonstrate how people can reallymake a difference in improving the environment.

Good planning comes from knowing the needs of yourarea. What types of sites need restoration? What areyour own interests? Nurseries primarily designed to re-tore a streamside will use different species and probablybe on a smaller scale than one whose goals includeurban plantings and wildlife enhancement. lt is best tostart small and let the nursery grow with your increasedexpertise, interest, volunteer base and funds.The key to sizing your nursery is to decide how manyseedlings you need to produce and, perhaps even more

how many you are capable of planting out__ every year. Even a corner of your

garden can produce a large numberof seedlings. Conifers are usuallygrown in a seedbed for two years,then moved to a transplant bed fortwo years. Deciduous trees can bemoved to transplant beds after thefirst year. Seedlings can also bestarted in containers or transplantedto containers after one or moreyears in a nursery bed.

STEP TWO - LocationAlmost any site is suitable for asmall, short-term nursery, includinga section of backyard garden. Morecare should be taken in selecting a

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Starting a community nurseryCommunity nurseries are a source of inexpensive plantsfor environmental restoration, beautification or wildlife en-hancement. The following pages lay out the steps youcan take to start your own nursery, large or small. Sincemany of our more unusual native trees and shrubs arenot available commercially, a community nursery may bethe only source of these valuable species. The nurseriesalready set up across the province are promoting the useof native trees and shrubs, which must be present if wehope to preserve and restore natural ecosystems.

STEP ONE - Making plansThe first step in starting a community nursery is decidingthat you want to use trees and shrubs to improve theenvironment. From organization to organization, thereasons will vary. Some groups might want to restore afavourite stream in the area. Others will be more con-emed with protecting soil, restoring degraded forests,saving energy, enhancing wildlife or reducing globalwarming.

Community nurseries ideally are operated by volunteersfrom one or more local organizations. Find out who elseis interested and how much time they will have to put intosuch a project. Localenvironmental groups, recreationalfisheries associations, church groups, Rotary Clubs,Women's lnstitutes, 4-H Clubs and Boy Scout troops aregood places to start seeking support. Try to get as manygroups as you can involved in the project and don't forgetlocal businesses - they may be looking for a project tosupport. The nursery and future plantings will build com-

MacphailWoods 37 Native Irees & Shrubs

site for a larger, permanent nursery. Here are some tipson what to look for and what to avoid,Access - A road that is accessible during the entiregrowing season is almost a necessity, especially if youhave to haul water or so1l amendments (manure,compost, etc.) very far. This means siting the nurserybeside a road or a well-maintained driveway. The closera nursery is to the centre of your group's operations, thebetter. Volunteers will be more likely to help out if theydon't have to drive long distances to get to the site.Accessibility has to be balanced against the chance ofvandalism.Water - no matter how much rain falls during the year,there are times when having water on site will make orbreak a crop of trees. Seeds need moisture togerminate, while a dry spellcan ruin newly transplantedtrees. Runnlng water is the best solution - from a townsystem or well, or pumped from a nearby pond. lf thoseare not avaitable, you will have to haulwater-Soil - dramatically changing soil is a challenge, so startoff with the best you can find. \y'fhen selecting a site,consider the following:- what has the site been used for during the past fiveyears? Avoid land that was continuously cropped or hadheavy applications of pesticides.- what is now growing on the site? Alders wi]l haveadded nutrients but can take quite a white to eradicate.Couch grass (also knorivn as quack or witctr grass) andthisttes are hard to get rid of without losing a year ofgrouting time. Again, if atlother aspects of the site areideal, it may beworth the effort.-what is the drainage like? Buitding raised beds witlhelpovercome drainage problems, but only to a degree. Makesure there is no standing water and avoid heavy claysoils.Site characteristics - the site should be flat or slightlysloping, with a southem or south-westem exposure.Light shade is acceptable, but the nursery must receivesun for most of the day. Avoid 'frost pockets" thatreceive frosts earlier than sunounding areas. Someonewho knows the area will probably be the best source ofinformation on this subiect.Shelter - windbreaks that slow prevailing winds can betrees or even buildings. lf there are no windbreakq treesand shrubs can be planted for this purpose- Fencingmade from slabs or boards can slow wind and keep outwildlife at the same time. Proper windbreaks reduce windspeed, allowing 50% permeability. Under normal condi-tions, a windbreak or fence 10 ft. (3 m) on the windwardside of the. nursery will protect plants up to 100 ft. (30 m)away.

STEP THREE - Soil conditioningThe ideal soilfor a nursery site is a light, loamy sand withplenty of organic matter. Take samples from severalareas on the site and test for nutrients, pH and organic

matter. The provincialDepartment of Agricutture and For-stry can lnstruct you in this and charges a nominalfee forthe test. Onee you know the condition of your soil, beginpreparing the site. [f the nursery will occupy part of yourgarden, the work may already be done. Small ptots inurban areas can be worked with hand labour and/or arototiller. Use a spade to strip off the sod, which shouldbe piled together and allowed to slowly decompose. Theground should be worked as deeply as possible, using aspade and a garden fork.

To improve drainage and add nutrients, add well-roftedmanure and compost if available. Most of our beds atMacphail Woods are roughly made up of tl6 part well-rotted manure, 113 part topsoil, 113 part potato cornpostor sorre other low-rrutrient organic matter, 1/6 part leafmould. We might also add seaweed, mussel mud orother orgenb.matter on hand at the time. Any natural soilamendmentthatmay be availahle in your area should notbe overlooked. Crab and lobster shells, flshmeal andbonemeal are excellent sources of nutrients. ln the spr-ing, spread dolomitic limestone to bring the pH up toabout 5.5, then use a garden fork or rototiller to preparethe soilfor planting.

For larger nurseries in rura] areas, you rnay decide to hirea nearby farmer to prepare the site, making use of his/herexpertise. Perhaps you could trade for a futurewindbreak planting. Plowing should be followed byspreading manure or compost. This can be disced inwhile the soil is still workable. Spread limestone in thespring, then hanow several times or use a rototiller.

Some old fields may have developed a hard pan, a com-pacted area just below plowing depth that can hamperdrainage. A chisel plow, designed to break up the subsoiland disturb the surface as little as possible, can solve thisproblem. lt should be noted that even rototilling too oftenat the same depth ereates a hard pan. Tillers can beused for initial preparation of the site and seedbeds, butshould not be used more than absolutety necessary.Excess tillage can destroy the soit texture that you haveworked so hard to aehieve.

MacphailWoods 38 Native Irees & Shru0s

STEP FOUR - Laying out the siteln gardens and urban areas, fencing may not bene@ssary, though cats and dogs can become problems.ln some rural areas it may be best to fence the nurserybefore planting, although we have stopped using fencingat MacphailWoods and have suffered little damage. A4-6 ft. (1.2-1.8 m) fence will usually keep snowshoe harefrom browsing twigs in winter. Fencing can be made ofchicken wire, boards, slabs, snow fencing - whatever ishandy.

Between the fencing and the actual planting beds, main-tain a weed-free strip. This will stop weeds that spreadby underground stems from creeping into your nursery.Lay down newspaper and then a heavy mulch, or till thestrip regularly.Your nursery may include one or more seed beds,potting area, transplant or container area, compost binsand watering system.

Seed bed - a good working size for all beds is 3 ft. (90cm) wide by up to 20 ft. (6 m) long, with 18 in. (45 pm)paths. Mark out beds with string and use a spade tomove soil from paths into beds, making the centre ofeach bed slightly higher than its edges. On heavy soil,beds should be 4 in. (10 cm) above paths; on well-drained soil, 2 in. (5 cm); and on very sandy soils thebeds need not be raised. Soil in beds should be firmed(but not compacted) using the back of a garden rake ora tamping board.Framing a raised bed with 8-10 in. (20-25 cm) wideplanks or boards is more costly but offers severaladvantages. The bed is easier to weed; dries out moreslowly along the edges; erodes less; and is more easilyscreened to keep out rodents.Pofting area - this can include a shed for tools andworking indoors when it rains, or be as simple as a largetable at convenient working height. Whether plantingsprouted seeds or year-old seedlings into containers, agood soil mixture is important. No one formula will fitevery situation, but here is a good general mix: 2 partsgarden loam; 1 part compost or leaf mold; 1 part clean,coarse sand. The addition of pulverized rock phosphateand either granite dust or greensand (1 tablespoon ofeach per 2-litre container), will reduce the chance ofnutrient deficiencies. Take a sample of the mix andraise the pH to about 5.5. About 6 lb. (2.7 kg) ofdolomitic limestone will raise the pH of 1 cu. yd. (.77cu.m) of mix 1 unit (e.9., 5.0 to 6.0).

Transplant or container area - whichever method orcombination of methods you choose, the area will be atleast four times the size of the seedling area. Bothsystems have advantages. Transplants in beds areeasier to watbr; require less water; have better drainage;can be grown in a smaller area; and suffer less lossfrom winter damage. Containergrown plants can beplanted out throughout the spring, summer and fall.

This is especially important if you will be doing plantingsaround certain events that take place outside of earlyspring and allows you to spread the work over a longerperiod. ln addition, plants in containers often experi-ence better growth and suffer less setback when trans-planted.

Containers can be anything you find locally, preferablyfor free. This system works well: use wooden grapecrates (free from most grocery stores) to hold 122-litreor 24 1-litre milk cartons. Cut off tops and use a knife tomake 112 in. (12 mm) drainage holes in bottoms ofcartons.

Compost bins - a three-bin system, using wire fencingor boards for sides, will give you room for all the com-posting materials you collect. lt is also easy to aeratethe material as you periodically move it from one bin tothe next. All dimensions of each section should beabout 4 ft. (1.2 m).

Watering system - however you obtain it, water mustbe clean and adequate to ensure good growing condi-tions. A convenient way to transport large quantities isin 4S-gallon (205-litre) foodgrade plastic barrels. Thesecan be purchased from fish-packing plants and bev-erage companies.

STEP FIVE .Collecting seeds and wild plantsMost seeds are best planted in the fall soon aftercollecting, while some prefer the spring. Plant seeds nodeeper than two times their diameter. Small diameterseed can be broadcast and covered with a 50-50 mix ofinland sand and sawdust, about 1/4 in. (6 mm) deep.For fall planting, wait until the ground is frozen and th€ncover the bed with a 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) mulch ofeelgrass, leaf mould, chopped straw or pine needles toprevent repeated freezing and thawing. ln the spring,remove most of the mulch and keep a close eye on thebed. The seedbed should be kept moist untilthe seedshave germinated and established roots. For both seedsand tender seedlings, use a watering rose or a specialhose nozzle that spreads out the water. These mostclosely emulate natural rainfall.

Native lrees & ShrubsMacphailWoods 39

Stratification beds - acorns and butternuts can beoverwintered in boxes with 10 in. (25 cm) wooden sides.Over a one-inch (2.5 cm) layer of sand, spread one layerof nuts. Cover with another layer of sand and peatmoss. Attach hardware cloth to the top of the frame,cover with a piece of plywood and mulch with 6 in. (15cm) of eelgrass, straw or sawdust. Check regularly inthe spring and plant in containers or beds when theseeds have begun to sprout. For the first two monthsafter germination, apply water several times a week if itdoes not rain. After that, a thorough, weekly wateringwill usually be adequate. Deep watering promotesbetter root growth at lower soil levels.

Most seedlings need partial shade during the firstsummer to conserve moisture and escape excessiveheat. The simplest way is to make a frame to supportsnow fencing about 1 foot (30 cm) over the bed. Youcan also use laths at the same height - anything thatgives you about 50% shading. lf the weather is especi-ally wet and muggy, you should remove the shading toallow the beds to dry out faster. This helps avoidproblems with fungiand bacteria

Transplanting is usually not a desirable way to get muchplanting stock. Often you can not be sure what theparent stock was like. The act of transplanting itselfusually damages the transplant and other plants growingnearby. Here are some areas where you can safely gettransplants:'1. forest roads - most people do not want treesgrowing up on their forest roads. Most of the plantswould get run over by machinery anyway, so this is agreat place to practice guilt-free transplanting. Becareful of damaging roots of trees growing alongside theroad - they spread for long distances at shallow depths.2. fields - if you are looking for white spruce or aldersto plant, many farmers will let you dig them for free fromtheir fields that have started to grow up. Other speciesnot wanted by farmers can be found in fields, such aswillow, red-osier dogwood and hawthorn.3. roadside ditches - often a good source of willow,alder and red-osier dogwood. These are usually hackeddown by machines or workers every year, so takingsome of the smaller plants does little harm.

Always transplant in early spring before plants producenew growth, unless you are able to dig up and carry asubstantial ball of earth around the roots. Seedlings upto 2 ft. (60 cm) give best results. Deciduous seedlingsshould be marked in the fallwith flagging tape (a differ-ent colour or code for each species) while they are stillin leaf, since it is often difficult to identify leafless seed-lings in the spring. Make sure the seedling has goodform and avoid suckers that have grown up from astump. Some species such as beech put up many rootsuckers, which make poor transplants. Deciduous andepniferous trees can be transplanted bare root or with aplug of soil. Treat transplants the same as if you weremoving seedlings to transplant beds (Step Six).

Transplanting seedlings with-in the nursery and lettingthem grow for a year or twoproduces stocky plants withdense root masses and notap root. Before new growthhas emerged, use a gardenfork to move seedlings totransplant beds or contain-ers. Take care to avoid dam-aging any roots or branches.On seedlings under 2 ft. (60cm), prune roots longer than8 in. (20 cm) with hand prun-ers or a pair of sharp scis-sors. Seedlings with split

roots or other major defects should be discarded. Prunemuttiple leades (the growing tips of the plant) to a singlestem, Roots MUST NOT be. allowed to dry out. Theycan be bunched together in wet moss and burlap,dipped in thin mud, or placed in a bucket of water. lt isbest to dig up small amounts of seedlings and transplantthem quickly.Plant seedlings in rows across the bed. A handy tool isa 6 in. (15 cm) wide board, 3 ft. (90 cm) long, marked offin increments of three, four and five inches (7.5, 10 and12.5 cm), Using a spade, dig a trench next to the boarddeep enough to hold the roots. The side nearest theboard should be vertical. Place seedlings against thevertical wall of the trench at the same depth as theygrew in the seedbed, indicated by a slight change inbark colour at the root collar. Roots should be spreadout evenly, not twisted together or L-shaped. Spacingdiffers for each species, but use the markings on theboard to ensure each is the same distance apart.Replace soil and firm around transplants to eliminate airpockets. Water deeply. Transplanting should be donein the evening or on a cloudy or rainy day. The greatestrisk is loss of water from shoots, especially if roots havebeen damaged in transplanting. lf you must transplantseedlings after they have leafed out, prune immediatelyto reduce the area from which water loss can occur. Fortrees, trim off about 30% of each branch but avoidcutting the leader if at all possible (this is less crucial forshrubs than trees). lt depends on the health of thetransplants and weather conditions.Treat transplants as you would new seedlings - a deepweekly watering and regular weeding are essential. A112 in. (1.3 cm) mulch of eelgrass, leaf mould orcomposted bark will help to keep weeds down andconserve moisture. Using a shade table (which allowsonly about half the available sunlight to get through, alsohelps save moisture and can mean the difference be-tween a successful transplant and a total waste of time.

Native lrees & Shrubs

STEP SIX.Transplanti ng seed I i ngs

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MacphailWoods 40

STEP SEVEN - MaintenanceApply a 3-4 in. (7.6-10 cm) mulch to the seedling andtransplant beds in November before the snow falls. Thiswill protect the roots from freezing and thawing andprevent frost heaving. Remember to apply mulch late inthe fall and remove it early in the spring. lf you havetrouble with rodents, you may have to pull the mulchaway from the seedlings and transplants, let some localcats patrol the area, or spray on some non-toxic rodentdeterrent.Overwintering container stock can be especially tricky -they do not have the large thermal mass of soil forprotection. Containers can be moved into an unheatedbuilding (a garage or your front porch). lf left outdoors,pack containers tightly together and place sawdust,seaweed or spruce boughs around the outside of thearea to lessen frost damage to roots. They should be inan area that will collect snow, which is an excellentwinter mulch. Snow fencing or spruce boughs can beused to trap snow.Be a regular visitor to the nursery - this is the only wayto avoid serious problems with underwatering, pests anddiseases. Many insect and disease problems can beavoided by growing plants in healthy soil with adequatewater. Plants that are undernourished, overfed orsubject to repeated dry spells are prime targets. Whenabsolutely necessary, look for organic insecticides thatare the least harmful controls. Most of these also killbeneficial insects, so use them sparingly.Good record keeping is an important part of nurserywork. Seed batches should be labelled with speciesname, collection date and where they are from; bedsshould be marked to clearly show the species and ageof the plant. A nursery map to identify seedling andtransplant locations is also essential. Accurate recordsallow you to learn from successes and mistakes.After a few years of growing seedlings, you will probablywant to develop new beds so that crops can be rotated.This will allow you time to plant green manures and addnutrients to beds so that seedlings and larger trans-plants atways get off to a good start. lt will also let youtake care of weed problems before they get out of hand,significantly reducing time spent on maintenance.

STEP EIGHT - Finished stockThis is the fun part, where your planning and work payoff. Before deciding on a planting site, consider thepossible effects of moving a plant to the area. Will theplant be too successful and crowd out what is alreadygrowing? Can you transplant and not damage roots ofexisting plants? Are you meeting the growing needs ofthe plant (amount of sunlight, water, soil conditions) sothat the plant will be healthy? Are you going to run into

conflicts with other people using the area, such as localfarmers? Certain plants are hosts to rusts and diseasesthat can affect farm crops, while other plants canbecome invasive in fields. Do you want to producehardwood lumber for a future harvest? Here are somepotential uses, with suitable species:{. Streamside restorationHow many of us have seen a favourite stream go fromprime fishing habitat to a silted, sluggish brook. Theseareas should be rich in wildlife, yet often are severelydegraded. To restore badly eroded and silted streams,you will often need to plant willow and alder along thebanks. These species grow quickly under difficult condi-tions and their roots help stabilize the soil. Once thestream banks are more secure and the shrubs areproviding shade, underplant species such as yellowbirch.

2. Urban landscapingTrees can help convert unused and degraded urbanareas into ecologically healthy and diverse parks, naturetrails and "green spa@s"; provide beauty and shade andreduce air pollutants. Red oak, sugar maple, red mapleand white birch are excellent choices for city plantings,as park trees or planted along streets. Shrubs such asalternate-leaf dogwood, serviceberry, beaked hazelnutand mountain ash beautify areas and attract wildlife.

3. Soil protection and crop improvementln rural areas, windbreaks and hedgerows slow the windand help prevent soil erosion by wind and water. Theyalso have a positive effect on crops, with yield increasesof 540o/o commonly reported. Mixed plantings ofconifers and deciduous species will also attractbeneficial birds and insects. Species often used inthese types of plantings include white spruce, larch, redoak, white birch, red maple, apple, mountain ash,serviceberry, highbush cranberry, wiH raisin and willow.4. Energy conservationSugar maple, red oak, white birch or white ash providesummer shade and reduce cooling costs when plantedto the south of your home. Plant a windbreak withconifers and shrubs along the north side of your houseto block prevailing winds and lower heating bills. A well-planned shelterbelt can also prevent snow from piling uparound the house and on the driveway.5. Restoration of degraded foresbAcross much of the province, forests have beensimplified and important components may be missing

Native lrees & ShrubsMacphailWoods 41

even in mixed wood stands. Underplant red spruce,yellow birch, sugar maple, white pine, and/or easternhemlock, at rates of 5-20/acre (12-50lha). ln stands thatare primarily white spruce, create small openings andplant red oak and white ash.

6. Wildlife enhancementWhile all trees and shrubs have value for wildlife, certainspecies are favoured over others. They may providefood for rarer types of birds; offer a food sourcethroughout winter; blossom early; or provide densecover for small mammals. Plant both deciduous andconiferous species, from low shrubs to tall trees. Learnabout needs of birds and mammals you want to attract.7. Reducing global warmingWindbreaks and other energy-saving plantings savemoney and reduce the amount of fossil fuel burned toheat or cool homes and offices. This reduction meansless carbon dioxide, a major contributor to globalwarming, is released into the atmosphere. Trees alsoremove carbon dioxide from the air and release orygen.Planting a variety of native trees and shrubs is an envi-ronmentally-sound way to achieve this goal.

Plant propagationThere are four routes to acquiring native plants - buyingfrom a nursery, transplanting from the wild, growing fromcuttings and growing from seed. Local supplies ofnative plants are seldom available. Even if they are, fewgroups or individuals can afford to buy stock in thenumbers required for most restoration projects.

The last three options make the best use of availableresources and are the keys to any large-scale projectssuch as stream rehabilitation, windbreak plantings orforest restoration. Select seed, cutting material or trans-plants from good parent stock and know that you aremaintaining or improving the quality of the species.Here are some general tips on collecting material -whether seeds, seedlings or cuttings:Always ask permission of the landowner: while thismight seem unnecessary, it is in your best interest. AtMacphail Woods we have been developing goodrelationships with landowners who are happy that wecan make use of plants on their property.Go easy on the environment avoid degrading onearea to improve another. You should never collect morethan 10% of the total seed crop in an area. lf others areusing the same sour@, lower this considerably.Prune with care: cuttings should be taken using properpruning techniques, leaving the parent plant in goodcondition and able to produce some seed in the nextgrowing season.Look for healthy plants: always collect from vigorousplants. Poor parent stock often means poor offspring,so avoid collecting from diseased or unhealthy plants.

TransplantsMost trees and shrubs are easy to transplant, especiallyif under 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Dig plants early in the springbefore new growth has started and ideally after a rainwhen the soil is soaked. Most roots will be within 8inches (20 cm) of the surface, so a wide hole is betterthan a deep one. A bushel basket will hold larger speci-mens, while small plants flt into 2 litre milk containers.The better you treat the transplant, the more successfulit will be. Here are some general tips:* Try to keep all roots intact with as much soil in placeas possible. Prune alldamaged roots and branches.* Keep transplants moist, but not soaking wet, at alltimes. Soilshould be wet enough to hold together.* Tall transplants of maples, alder, willow, wild roseand other species benefit by being pruned back to 1-2feet (3060 cm). The larger the root ball and the moreyou can water the plant, the less you need to cut it back.* Plant in a suitable location (common elder from awet area should not be placed in a dry windbreak).' Place transplants into the ground at the same depthas they were originally growing.* Water thoroughly at transplant time.* Mulch transplants after planting, using wood chips,bark, leaves or eelgrass.

CuttingsMany shrubs can be easily grown by taking cuttings inthe summer, fallorwinter. The pages on individualspe-cies contain specific recommendations. Use the follow-ing as guidelines for all cuttings:

Summer cuttings: use only the current yea/s growth,preferably taking the cutting mid-June to mid-August.Discard the soft, fleshy tip of the branch. The cuttingshould be about 6 inches (15 cm) long, with the top cutmade at a low angle about 1/4 inch (6 mm) above a budand the bottom cut straight across about 1/4 inch (6mm) below a bud, with one or more buds in between.This is the ideal that is not often reached. Try shorter orlonger cuttings if necessary. The angle of cuts is asimple way of making sure that you know which is thebase of the cutting. This way, you will never plant acutting upside down (a common mistake when usingcuttings without leaves). Cut the top leaves in half un-less they are quite small and strip away all remainingleaves.

As soon after collecting as possible, cuttings should beplaced in a bed located in a semi-shaded area. The bedcan be as large as you need and have time to look after.Let's use a 4 foot x 8 foot (1.2 m x 2.4 m) bed as anexample. The easiest method is to scrape the weeds offan area with a shovel or mattock and place 3-4 layers ofnewspaper on the ground, extending beyond the bound-aries of the bed. Construct your frame out of 1 inch x 8

Native lrees & ShrubsMacphailWoods 42

inch (2.5 cm x 20 cm) or 2 inchx 8 inch (5 cm x 20 cm) materialand set.in place. Place a 6 inch(15 cm) layer of clean, inlandbuilde/s sand in the bed andwaterthoroughly. Mulch outsidethe bed's base with wood chipsor bark to keep weeds frominfiltrating. Sprinkle a smallamount of #2 rooting hormone(we use Stim-Root, availablefrom most nurseries and storeswith gardening sections), on theflat top of an ice cream con-tainer. Dip each cufting in thehormone, covering the base,just before you plant it. Rootinghormone stimulates better rootdevelopment. Once it has comein contactwith plant material, do

not retum the hormone to its originalcontainer. lt cancontaminate the remaining product and should bediscarded at the end of each cutting session.Cuttings should be planted so that about 1 inch (2.5 cm)of the tip is exposed. Use a screwdriver, stick or what-ever you have to make a hole, place cutting to desireddepth and firm sand around cutting. Place cuttings 2-3inches (5-7.5 cm) apart, depending on species and sizeof the leaves. A bed this size can hold between 500-1150 cuttings. Cover the bed with white plastic, old win-dows or plylood - anything to keep the moisture levelshigh. Beds should not be allowed to overheat. Checkweekly to see if the sand is still moist, and water ifnecessary. After about three weeks, start giving a liftletug on a few cuttings of each species. When you feelresistance, you have succeeded in getting root growth.Dig up a few and see what they look like. lf the rootslook strong and are between 1-2" (2.5-5 cm), cuttingsare ready to transplant. Move them out into a shady,protected location or transplant them to the nursery andwdit a year or two until you have larger plants.

Winter cuttings: these cuttings can be made as soonas the plants become dormant in the fall, after theleaves have dropped, and anytime before the buds swellin the spring. Again, use the current yeads growth, dis-card the softest growth at the tip and make cuttings thesame as you would in summer. Remember to use aslanted cut at at the top of the cutting and a straight cutat the bottom. We tie winter cuttings in bundles of 50,.marking each bundle with a plastic tag and recordingspecies, location, date and other information that mightbe useful. The base of the bundle is then dipped in #3rooting hormone and the bundle is placed in a plasticbag. Store bag in a refrigerator or cool basement, or insand in the cutting bed under a thick layer of mulch.ln the spring, as soon as the ground is workable, youhave two options. Place the cuttings in a cutting bed toroot and be transplanted later; or plant them in a regular

garden bed at 3-6 inch (7.5-15 cm) spacings. Spacingdepends on when you want to use the plants - widerspacing allows you to leave the cuttings in the bed anextra year if you want to set out larger transplants,These beds need to have loose soil so that the newroots are free to develop. Mulch lightly and keep well-watered, since a garden bed can not maintain thecutting bed's high humidity level.

SeedsSaving the best for last is an old trick, but growing treesor shrubs from seed is really the best way to do large orsmall numbers of most species, You can select fromlocal, reliable parents - vigourous plants with heavycrops of seed - and grow hundreds of seedlings fortransplanting at almost no cost.Most seed has some kind of dormancy which preventsgermination in the fallduring a warm spell. Dormancycan be quite complex - a hard seed coat that needs tobreak down over a winter, an embryo that is not fullydeveloped, chemicals within the fruit that inhibit germin-ation, or any combination of the above. Fortunately, youdo not have to worry about dormancy, as long as youfollow recommendations for each shrub. lf you growsome species that germinate in the first growing seasonand some that sprout the second spring, separate thesegroups. lt makes weeding and mulching much easierand efficiently uses available nursery space.Seed preparation also differs between species - service-berry fruits contain multiple seeds, while wild raisin hasa single seed. Some seedcoats need to be removed orcrushed, while others are fine to plant just as they comeoff the shrub. Just follow the recommendations for eachspecies. Seeds should be planted as soon as possibleafter collecting, to prevent moulds from forming on thefruit or the seed from drying out. Planting depth isgenerally twice the diameter of the seed - plant smallseeds such as roses about 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep andlarger seeds like hawthom about 1/4 inch (6 mm) deep.Place a 2-3 inch (5-7.5 cm) layer of mulch such aseelgrass over the beds in the fall and remove most ofthis in the spring. lf the seeds need two winters beforegerminating, rhulch again the second winter.

Native lrees & ShrubsMacphailWoods 43