ss14 design concept for web

Design Concept FALL.WINTER 2014.15

istory repeats itself in a modern yet romanticized renaissance of early COLONIAL LIFE, Parisian

art deco, reigning Russian monarchs, and classic heritage. Romantic dances of the BALLET RUSSE

allure and harken back to the beginning of the century. The hazy hardships of the Dust Bowl,

ornamentation of the Far East and wholesomeness of midcentury Americana piece together for a

subtle twist on the past. A new DRESS CODE is enforced, mixing old and new, feminine and masculine.

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Antiqued and aged lilacs, pewters, whisper grays and moss look wistful and soft. A deep burnished range looks rough and rugged and harkens back to when the West was won.

Rose-hued light permeates a dusty 1920s boudoir setting. Sophisticated tones of olive, lavender and copper evoke the intrigue of a rendezvous at dusk.

A retro uniform vibe plays up the nostalgia through active-inspired aesthetics Homogenized looks speak to the status quo in deep and somber burgundy, evergreen, hazel and mulberry.

COLONIAL LIFE

CONTENTS 03

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Renowned as artful manipulations of material, the figurative sculptures of Anna Gillespie are beautifully elemental. Yet the Somerset-based sculptor doesn’t just create such art -- she creates nature. The combination of collected acorn caps or beechnut casings with those crafted from bronze and stone epitomizes that which is naturally artificial. The simulation of nature through synthetic material creates an intriguing compromise.

In the piece, “America (Burnt/Unburnt),” artist Clair Fontaine maps the United States in hundreds of matches. Lending an old fashioned, rustic quality to her work, the matches look weathered and dry in a uniform shade of hazel. It’s only once Fontaine lights the piece on fire, the flame spreading rapidly from match to match, that the piece comes alive and possesses a haunting historical vibe.

NATURALLY SYNTHETIC MAP OF THE U.S.GAME OF THRONES HISTORY REVEALED

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Returning for its third season, the HBO award-winning series Game of Thrones masterfully combines elements of old world mysticism with territorial claim. Echoing messages of colonialism, the fight for land interweaves several plots while displaying a visual feast for the eyes. The imaginative costumes and scenic design are already spilling over into runway looks, street style ensembles and interior design.

Running until May of 2013, the MET exhibit, “Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity,” provides an in-depth look into some of the most intricately constructed garments depicted in infamous Manets, Monets and Zolas. Side by side for the first time, works of art are dramatically displayed next to the actual garments as to amplify not just how accurately they were portrayed, but the involvement behind the historical clothes.

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SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDSCOLONIAL LIFE

Colonial Life Colonial Life

COLONIAL LIFEAntiqued and aged lilacs, pewters, whisper grays and moss look wistful and soft. A deep burnished range looks rough and rugged and harkens back to a

colonized world.

FRONTIER

PIONEER

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COLONIAL LIFEAn unfamiliar world is discovered through curiosity and exploration. A new FRONTIER of settlers and progressive thinkers uncovers

alternative lifestyles, and a melting pot of the old and new comes to a boil. Cultural diffusion allows for idea sharing and adaptation among hard working sharecroppers, rustic farmers, ornamented conquistadors, and early American PIONEERs. Daring new flourishes in dress create distinction among the ranks and establish a visual class system. From a simple agrarian lifestyle to the entirely outfitted and adorned, colonial looks span from the peasant to the puritan.


Arid landscapes produce baked and parched color. An agrarian aesthetic sets the stage for an old Spaghetti Western.

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COLONIAL LIFE

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FRONTIER

Colonial Life

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HOME ON THE RANGE PG.10

PLYMOUTH ROCK PG.12

COUNTRY BUMPKIN PG.14

OREGON TRAIL PG.16

Colonial Life

Rugged agrarian cloth has a rough and natural hand. Time-eroded and ancient textiles feel old as the hills. Thick knit bundles of bouclé, mohair, alpaca and hide look rustic yet rich.

HOME ON THE RANGE

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1. space-dye bouclé 2. one-ply thick and thin yarn 3. mohair/silk 4. alpaca/wool 5. mohair/wool/polyamide

FRONTIER

RUGGED KNITS


Worn and weathered twill, moleskin, and shearling evoke a foreign colonial mentality. Durable workwear fabrics for labor-intensive days get down and dirty and exemplify the settler’s lifestyle.

PLYMOUTH ROCK

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1. curly lamb shearling 2. printed twill 3. stretch canvas 4. felted and brushed 5. enzyme washed 6. moleskin cotton/polyester 7. micro structure

SUEDE SURFACE WORKWEAR

FRONTIER


Handicraft twists on classic ditsy, mini check, and micro calico possess a colloquial handmade charm. Traditional pastoral basics look faded and slightly delicate. Tea-stained grounds and crinkled textures feel homespun and unique.

COUNTRY BUMPKIN

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FRONTIER

1. tea stain plaid 2. slightly brushed 3. cotton/linen 4. tablecloth chambray 5. homemade tattersall 6. inky simple floral 7. calico mini leaves

SIMPLE YARN-DYES & PRINTS


Utilitarian canvas, chambray and modal are put to work in functional and coated finishes. Drab grays paint a picture of live-off-the-land austerity. The American Dream gets pursued in sensible workwear layers.

OREGON TRAIL

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1. woolen french terry 2. micro modal/alpaca 3. double-faced interock4. ring spun canvas 5. indigo chambray 6. herringbone and railroad stripe 7. coated cross hatch

WORKER HENLEY & JEANS

FRONTIER


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Tea-stained grounds frame the humdrum village repeats of handicraft ditsy florals and weathered shirting stripes. Worn out color combinations subdue patterns until they appear flat and commonplace.

FABRICS & PRINTS FRONTIER


Imperial settlers colonize and live by the land. Garnished and adorned, a nouveau riche mindset adds flourish to the countryside.

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COLONIAL LIFE

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PIONEER

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OLD COUNTRY PG.20

GENTLEMAN’S LEAGUE PG.22

HIGH SOCIETY PG.24

GOLD RUSH PG.26


Coat-weight heavy woolens have a tactile hand. Rural touches like basket weave and hemp yarns feel old and natural. Traditional chevrons and checks are surprisingly revamped in bonded technical combinations.

OLD COUNTRY

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1. needlebonded chevron/check 2. handloom effect 3. basket weave4. hopsack canvas 5. hemp and coarse yarn 6. washed wool

HEAVY WOOLEN

PIONEER


Classic menswear suiting textiles evoke a bespoke, made-to-measure allure. Attention to detail and crafted qualities like clips and yarn dyes lend an ornate feeling to the conventional pinstripe, herringbone and plaid.

GENTLEMAN’S LEAGUE

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1. oversized plaid 2. clip dot stripe 3. damask stripe 4. yarn dye shirting 5. broken pinstripe alpaca/cotton 6. worsted herringbone 7. grandad stripe

OLD FASHIONED SUITING

PIONEER


Tea time-ready chiffon, taffeta and jacquard look dainty and light. Ginger grounds against delicate roses, and fanciful cinnamon colored tapestry florals have subtle elements of ornamentation and antiqued surface sheen.

HIGH SOCIETY

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1. sheer crepe 2. fine tussore 3. printed chiffon 4. tencel/nylon voile5. gassed mercerized cotton 6. jacquard and clips 7. silk satin 8. silk cloque

SOPHISTICATED UNDERPINNING

PIONEER


Luxury goes for the gold in elaborate European-inspired mixes. Opulent embellishments and embroidery adorn the surfaces of burnouts, brocades and other indulgent fabrications. Metallic sheen is embedded into rich, plush surfaces.

GOLD RUSH

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1. wool taperstry jacquards 2. silk matelassé 3. moiré taffetas 4. silk messaline 5. laser burnout 6. gold embroidery 7. metallic brocade

DECADENT DRESSING

PIONEER


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Blouse fabrics and decorative flourishes add a sense of occasion to fancy florals, jacquards, and lace. Menswear dobby stripe, tapestry looks, and crest emblems possess a regal and dignified spirit.

FABRICS & PRINTS PIONEER

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SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDSBALLET RUSSE

High-tech 3-D printing is now being used to put a little old fashioned charm back into innovation. The “Smart Replicas” project by Dutch designer Maaike Roozenburg recreates centuries old antiques and relics in exact likeness, so much so that they can actually replace the real objects in museums. The project will enable smart phone interaction with the antiques and will go into prototype testing in late 2013.

The chalk medium is no longer limited to scribbles and doodles. The old childhood game of sidewalk chalk gets a sophisticated and artistic update thanks to artist Francois Pelletier. Incredibly achieving the likeness of famous works of art, Pelletier carefully transfers oil paintings stroke by stroke in chalk on to the street, viewable to passersby and vulnerable to stomping feet. Making it no longer necessary to view in a gallery, pictured here is the chalk masterpiece of La Treille by William-Adolphe Bouguereau.

MODERN ANTIQUES SIDEWALK CHALKTHE GOLDEN AGE EAST MEETS WEST

Baz Luhrmann’s re-imagining of the classic ’20s novel and 1974 film “The Great Gatsby” is anticipated to have a profound effect across the cultural spectrums. From the drop waists, bob cuts and fringed hemlines to multiple pearl strands and feather boas, the movie is ripe for strong fashion interpretation. Said to release at the Cannes Film Festival on May 15, critics are excitedly anticipating the psychedelic visuals Luhrmann is famous for creating.

In a beautiful combination of Western architecture and Eastern craft, artist Babak Golkar has seamlessly integrated skyscrapers into Persian carpets. Golkar treats the patterned carpet as a blue print for the base of his structures, and then extrapolates that to a fully erected New York City-style skyscraper. The contrast is stark and intriguing while underlining the magic to be made when melding Eastern and Western cultures and concepts.

BALLET RUSSERose-hued light permeates a dusty 1920s boudoir setting. Sophisticated tones of olive, lavender and copper evoke the intrigue of a rendezvous at

dusk.

LOLITA

ORIENTEXPRESS

BALLET RUSSERomantic gestures and exotic treasures fuse together for an elegant assembly of eclectic worldliness. Blurred and

hazed color looks subdued and alluring. French coquettes and showgirls primp and pamper in dim lit boudoirs. Dainty doilies and dripping beads adorn sophisticated mademoiselles and naive LOLITAs head to toe. Enticing folkloric fantasies of the Far East conjure up a cultured longing for the foreign. Overly ornamented takes on bohemian style manifest in luxurious color and fabric. A trip on the ORIENT EXPRESS inspires, intrigues and infatuates.


French coquettes and expert seductresses appear as damsels in distress. Poetic pastels and rich vegetable dyes spark another Renaissance.

BALLET RUSSELOLITA

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DAMSEL IN DISTRESS PG.38

LA VIE EN ROSE PG.40

FORTUNE TELLER PG.42


Debauchery unfolds around a 1920s boudoir setting where waif-like flapper girls lay in wait. Tender floral satin, Chanel tweeds, luscious velvet, and glimmering voile effuse a romantic and alluring aura.

DAMSEL IN DISTRESS

1. chanel-inspired tweed 2. velvet 3. stitch relief merino 4. printed satin 5. shimmer voile 6. silk broadcloth 7. twill crepe

BULKY TWEED & FLUID SATIN

LOLITA


Scenes from a French foreign film play out in dusky cosmetic shades. Ultra feminine lingerie-inspired pleats, embroidery and shimmer look dainty and fragile. Seeing the world through rose-colored lenses casts an entrancing view of double knits, tulle and brocade.

LA VIE EN ROSE

1. shimmer double knits 2. basketweave tweed 3. velveteen 4. mechanical pleats 5. embroidered tulle 6. sheer jacquard crepe 7. metallic brocade

PRECIOUS BLANKET & FANCY CHEMISE

LOLITA


A flare for the theatric culminates in an oracle’s premonition of a blooming, mysterious future. Hazy, dusty hues look mystical and Old World in deluxe velvet, chunky tweed, lightweight/pajama-weight geo jacquard, and lustrous chiffon.

FORTUNE TELLER

1. bulky tweed 2. silk velvet 3. embroidered tulle 4. iridescent chiffon 5. dot jacquard 6. burnout velvet 7. wool lace

SILK VELVET & BREEZY CHIFFON

LOLITA


Dainty potpourri-hued compositions appear heavily influenced by the Far East and vintage art deco. Intricate foliage is depicted in winding swirls and dizzying repeats.

LOLITA


FABRICS & PRINTS

Rich and exotic colors dance and swirl around intricate tile patterns, forgotten empires, folkloric wallpaper and lavish tapestries.

BALLET RUSSEORIENT EXPRESS

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THE SILK ROAD PG.48

FOLK LURE PG.50

MADAME BUTTERFLY PG.52

MOULIN ROUGE PG.54


Far Eastern riches have travelled great distances to pepper into a worldly assortment. An exotic appeal is peaked by handicraft stitching and appliqués, glossy matelassé, hefty upholstery brocades, and royal ottoman jacquard.

THE SILK ROAD

1. appliqué and hand stitching 2. over embroidery 3. uneven brocade 4. ottoman jacquard 5. silk/cotton/wool 6. matte and shine matelassé

HAND EMBROIDERY & ORNATE BROCADE

ORIENT EXPRESS


Ornamental and over-the-top surfaces add shinning facets and places of interest in a folkloric story. Gleaming foil printing on velvet, luxe jacquard and exotic tapestries promises a glamorous and foreign journey.

FOLK LURE

1. floral tweed 2. tonal jacquard 3. ornate tapestry 4. foil printed velvet 5. folkloric jacquard 6. metallic brocade

FOLKLORIC JACQUARD & PRINT

ORIENTAL EXPRESS


An eclectic fusion of Asian and Byzantine flourishes comes together in a rush of Old World fantasy. Geisha house kimonos, Oriental-inspired silk brocade and Eastern relief jacquard depict a stunning scene from a tragic opera.

MADAME BUTTERFLY

1. relief jacquard 2. silk velvet 3. japanese kimono 4. silk/wool tapestry 5. wool etamine 6. silk brocade 7. flock print velvet

KIMONO VELVET & SILK

ORIENT EXPRESS


A theatric display of provocative satin, alluring metallic jacquard and opulent laser-cut leather tells a timeless tale of Parisian promiscuity. Fanciful foulards and eccentric diamond quilts leave much to the imagination.

MOULIN ROUGE

1. laser-cut leather 2. dobby weave 3. diamond quilt 4. metallic jacquard 5. mini foulard 6. double-faced satin 7. heat print satin

DOBBY & SATIN

ORIENTAL EXPRESS


Exotic patterns straight from a Japanese screen grace every facet. Vivid color and dark grounds look rich and saturated. A flair for the foreign is expressed through Byzantine pattern work in tapestry and wallpaper.

ORIENTAL EXPRESS


FABRICS & PRINTS

SOCIO-CULTURAL TRENDSDRESS CODE

59Dress Code58 Dress Code

Hidden gadgets, discreet enhancements, and that which is innovative yet functional define the new age of wearable technology. With a subtler quality and more organic feel, today’s performance clothing is less about in-your-face developments and more about lifestyle integration. Artefact is a company that constantly pushes the envelope in striving for the most seamless “modwells,” tiny modules incorporated subtly into fashion that collect and transmit your health data, pictured here.

The New York start-up Uncharted Play has recently decided to go to market with the innovative mini generator that is Soccket. Treated as a soccer ball, the more you kick this technologically enhanced ball the more electricity you generate, “converting play into power.” Originally envisioned to aid Third World countries, the socially conscious soccer ball unites athleticism and innovation for the common good.

HIDE AND SEEK SOCCKET TO MEVINTAGE TECH BOND. JAMES BOND.

The Polaroid camera has long been a symbol for vintage, obsolete technology. The photosharing app Instragram even borrowed one incarnation for their logo. Yet the new Socialmatic camera goes a step further with this retro approach to tech, actually implementing a Polaroid design that simultaneously speaks to the vintage quality and instant gratification of the Polaroid camera, while enabling it with Instagram-sharing web access.

An etiquette survival manual for the modern day gentleman, the Gentleman’s Academy located in New York City strives to turn every Average Joe into James Bond. Boasting classes on dressing, mannerisms and style and emphasizing ideals of dignity, honor and virtue, founder Michael Leopolt epitomizes all these things in his personal lifestyle.

DRESS CODEA retro uniform vibe plays up the nostalgia through active-inspired

aesthetics. Homogenized looks speak to the status quo in somber burgundy, evergreen and hazel.

CHAMPION

ACADEMY

DRESS CODECoordinated attire and ensembles look to the past for a modern makeover. Min ima l mascu l in i ty fee ls sober yet new. C lass ic her i tage looks ,

competitive activewear, and scholarly collegiate ideas are revamped through nostalgic and vintage notions. Iconic tried and true looks emerge as the reigning CHAMPION and are the height of sophisticated styling. An understood status quo amplifies the expected code of dress. Pre-ordained rules and regulations governing dress are upheld by ACADEMY standards and preserved through time. Discreet homogenized looks are able to blend in while standing out.


Traditional Americana prep gets a technological twist through subtle active-inspired details. Brights combine with neutrals for a casual statement.

DRESS CODECHAMPION

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OLD SCHOOL PG.64

HONORS SOCIETY PG.66

THE A-TEAM PG.68

BADGE OF HONOR PG.70


Functional fabrics get a classic twist that hides their practicality in a modernized take on the age old uniform. Double-faced preppy plaid is paired with bonded backing. Unlikely luxury duos like tweed and neoprene are heat pressed together to form a new spin on performance.

OLD SCHOOL

1. prince of wales plaid 2. double-faced spacer jersey 3. spacer viscose/wool 4. nylon-backed jersey 5. neoprene-backed tweed 6. double gabardine

DOUBLE-FACED BASIC

CHAMPION


1. synthetic melton polyester/viscose 2. brushed glen check 3. washed flannel 4. tonal tweed 5. wool felt 6. compact crepe wool/nylon 7. wool chino

BRUSHED & COMPACT


Densely knit textiles have an added touch of relaxed plush in brushed and swept surfaces. Highly technical qualities look ultra compact and light yet almost studious in washed flannel, wool felt and brushed iconic glen check.

HONORS SOCIETY CHAMPION

Athletic accents like classic sailor buttons and rip stripe tape give a scholarly appeal. A vintage collegiate approach is taken to fine tweed, rich Bedford cord, stretch gabardine and wool jersey.

1. broken twill tweed 2. dense knit 3. overlock wool jersey 4. double weave crepe 5. stretch gabardine 6. bedford cord

CLASSIC & DENSE


THE A-TEAM CHAMPION

Merits of distinction are donned proudly and honorably by the top of the class. A preppy undertone lends an Americana vibe as traditional cashmere jersey, Prince of Wales check and wool fleece are captured in a timeless mélange.

BADGE OF HONOR

1. cashmere jersey 2. prince of wales 3. mélange jersey 4. wool fleece 5. hair interlock 6. merino stripe

LUXURIOUS KNITS

CHAMPION


Team players and varsity stars are decked out in monograms and numbers. Preppy basics like plaid, cable knit and stripes are expected yet updated in muddier, tonal colorways.

CHAMPION


FABRICS & PRINTS

Prestigious dressing is re-envisioned through structured yet performance-driven separates. Deepened neutrals look sophisticated and sharp.

DRESS CODEACADEMY

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EYE SPY PG.76

DOUBLE AGENT PG.78

ALTER EGO PG.80

SECRET SOCIETY PG.82


Discreet and camouflaged looks blend in and out of the background. Uniform basics look bold and sharp with added performance elements. Laminated felt, resin coating, and fleece-backed nylon lend a sleek hand to traditional textures.

EYE SPY

1. fleece-backed nylon 2. technical cotton/polyamide 3. jersey backed 4. resin coated 5. wool/polyester bonded 6. laminated felt

PERFORMANCE COATING

ACADEMY


Plaid-on-plaid duets suit up in tailored and neat ensembles. Dapper and oversized variations zoom in to breathe new life into the classic staple. Felted windowpane, double-weave and heathered plaid look three-piece suit ready and matchy-matchy.

DOUBLE AGENT

1. heathered plaid 2. shadow check 3. rigid drill 4. felted windowpane 5. bulky double weave

OVERSIZED PLAIDS

ACADEMY


Double agents are artfully homogenized in formal, gentlemanly suiting. Espionage is achieved through anonymity in clan plaid, pinstripe and dobby weave. Neoprene bonding adds an active practicality.

ALTER EGO

1. dobby weave back 2. luminous pinstripe 3. neoprene bonded 4. classic pinstripe 5. windowpane check 6. clan plaid

FORMAL SUITINGS

ACADEMY


Classified information is kept hidden behind a private agenda. A preppy front is maintained by schoolboy stripes, silk tie prints and classic tartan. Civilized regalia has a modernized outfit edge.

SECRET SOCIETY

1. silk tartan 2. schoolboy stripe 3. sateen club stripe 4. ribbon silk leno 5. silk taffetas 6. tie stripe 7. compact sateen

CLUB STRIPE & SILK TIE

ACADEMY


Dapper prints evoke the essence of three-piece suits, silk foulards, chivalry and James Bond-esque style. Classic ticking stripes, plaids and tweed form a timeless combination.

ACADEMY


FABRICS & PRINTS

© Copyright 2013 by Henry Doneger Associates,Inc.463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 P 212 564 1266 www.doneger.com

All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,including photocopying, recording or by any information retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

is a division of The Doneger Group

ss14 design concept for web

Documents

deep burnished range

hued light permeates

fabrics

orient express

whisper grays

copper evoke

harkens back

silk velvet 3