squeals129.121.107.232/~costumer/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/squeals_2… · a black silk pillbox...

Squeals The Official Newsletter of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc.

January

2015

You’re reading the January Edition of SQUEALS: The official newsletter of Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. January. Volume 30, Number 3.

CGW website: www.costumersguild.org

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Membership / Subscription info: CGW One-Year Individual Dues: US $30.00, Canada and Mexico US $31, International US $36. CGW Household Dues (optional, no newsletter): each additional member at any address, add $15 each to the primary household member's dues.

Please send Change of Address notices to: Costumer's Guild West, Inc. 1917 Crestshire Dr. Glendale, CA 91208

Deadline for February issue: 12 Jan 2015 Send your contributions to the editor at [email protected]. All e-mail messages received are assumed to be for publication unless specifically marked DNP or DNQ (do not print/do not quote). We’re always looking for articles on costume-related subjects in the 100 to 400 word range. Longer articles also desired for serialization.

Please let us know if you would like your hardcopy Squeals subscription to be changed to E-Squeals. If so, be certain that we have your current email address. This is not an automatic change, nor do you have to wait until your membership renewal. The change can be done anytime.

Squeals, the Official Newsletter of CGW Inc. 3 | P a g e

Contents About Our Cover .................................................................................................. 4

From The President ............................................................................................. 5

From the New Treasurer….….…………….…………………………………..……………………..….6

From the Vice President…………………………………………….…………..……………………..….6

From the Costume College Dean ........................................................................ 9

From the Costume College Asst. Dean ............................................................. 10

From the Director at Large Patti Buckley .......................................................... 13

Seeking Costume College Classes ...................................................................... 14

Where Do You Find Your Inspirations? .............................................................. 15

Events Highlights .............................................................................................. 16

Do you ever consider the “FAIR”? .................................................................... 17

Colophon ........................................................................................................... 19

A word from the Editor ...................................................................................... 19

HAVE YOU MOVED? OR ARE YOU PLANNING TO? If you have changed address or are planning to, please don’t forget to notify us of the change. You can do so by emailing me at [email protected] or by contacting any of the board members listed in Squeals. Natalie Meyer, Bookkeeper and Keeper of the Member List

mailto:[email protected]


ABOUT OUR COVER: Our lovely cover model is Alyxx Ianetta. She imparts us with this brief narration of her ensemble: I joined the Guild of St. George and needed a dress in short order for a period feast, so I had to get cracking. I was playing the Viscountess Montague and the year was 1578 and I had less than a month including getting everything I wanted to do approved. For character reasons, and for variety, I chose black for the gown as there wasn’t much black being worn in the guild at the time. Good quality cotton velvet was easy to find and reasonably priced. The trim is metal bullion embroidery from India, and was gorgeous but difficult to work with. Being handmade, it was tough to find two lengths of it that were well matched enough to pair down the front of the gown. I also added pearls to the trim, and a welt of salmon pink on each side. The sleeves and underskirt are made from a heavily embroidered silk taffeta that I dyed burgundy and jeweled. The cuffs on the sleeves are made from Point de Venice antique lace I’ve been hoarding for years.

Other pieces of the ensemble, some seen, some not seen, are hand-made shoes (by Frances Classe based on the Ashmolean find), inkle woven garters, fitted hose, linen bloomers, a rectangular-construction linen smock, linen partlet and ruff with silver metal bobbin lace, a linen and silk effigy corset, silk Alcega farthingale, small bum roll, cloth-of-gold and pearled coif. On the front cover I am wearing a black silk pillbox hat with hand-curled plume, and on the back over I am wearing a silk satin tall hat with hand-curled plume.

Photo credits: Front cover, Kitty Jones. Back cover, Joe Foley. This page, Gar Travis.


FROM THE PRESIDENT

By Eileen Smolenski Wow, 2015! Time passes more quickly each year it seems. Could it be because we plan more than is humanly possible? I for one have very ambitious costuming goals in mind for this New Year and am excited to look at my already filling calendar pages while trying to block out time to ensure timely completion of various outfits. I have just rearranged my sewing work space and already scheduled a pattern fitting day with my daughter. Now that the house is in order maybe it can stay that way.

Just when I think everything is set to run smoothly something happens to challenge my perception. As some of you have probably already heard our Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. Treasurer, Christine Kelsey, resigned from her position on the Board of Directors as of November 30, 2014. She will be missed but hopefully this will be a good move for Christine. According to our CGW By-Laws: Article VIII, section 4-B , “In the event of . . . resignation . . . the Board of Directors shall appoint an officer to fill the unexpired term if the time remaining is less than half the term. If more than half the term remains, a special election shall be held to fill the vacancy.” Because of the 2013 amendments to our By-Laws the CGW Treasurer is elected for a two year term during odd numbered years. Ten months remain of Christine’s two year term. Consequently, the Board of Directors needed to appoint a new treasurer. The search began and, with Rebecca Howard’s great contacts, we have found Annette Grace to fill the position. We are all excited to get to know Annette better while working together on the Board this year but I will let her introduce herself.


From the New Treasurer

By Annette Grace I originally went to school for theatrical costume design, and then I changed to business. I never stopped loving costuming though. Eight years ago I met my husband and began historical reenacting with him, which allowed me to dive into costuming once again. Now I have fun with historical as well as fantasy costuming and I love learning new techniques and sharing my love of the hobby with others. I am an avid ballroom dancer, and hope to

incorporate fantasy costuming into my dance gowns. I work as an office manager, so I love having this creative outlet when I'm not at work. I would like to thank everyone for entrusting me with this position. I look forward to a fun and productive 2015. I can't wait to meet everyone. -- Annette Grace

FROM THE VICE PRESIDENT

By Rise Reading

Happy New Year everyone! I hope one of your New Year’s resolutions is to get involved with Costume College, if you aren’t already, and CGW in general. CGW members had a wonderful time at the Hollywood Costume exhibit in November, and the Victorian Christmas at Banning House in December. And I know 2015 is going to be a fun year for CGW.


To start off, we are Getting Moody – a meet up at Mood Fabrics Los Angeles on January 17th at 11 am. Mood’s new warehouse store is a wonder to behold, and though not cheap, you can find almost anything you are looking for there. Don’t we all need more fabric? Of course! Mood LA is located at 645 S. La Brea in Los Angeles. The number for the store is 323-653-6663. Metered street parking and parking in the alley behind the store. Laissez les bon temps roulé! Our big event for February is our Mardi-Gras Party on the 7th at the home of Patti Buckley, who hosted our Costume College Galas for the past 2 years, so it should be a great party. Wear anything Mardi-Gras: a crazy modern outfit, a historical piece with a twist, your Steampunk best, Fantasy, a mask, a wild hat, tiaras, or your best wacky boots…. The sky’s the limit! (PG-13 rated costumes please) No pressure –just fun! The event will be held at 282 Park Avenue, Long Beach, starting at 6 p.m. The cost is $30.00 per person, $45.00 for couples. Check the website for payment information. Patti has some wonderful things planned – a New Orleans-style Cajun menu including appetizers, cornbread, jumbo, red beans & rice, veggies, King Cake, and Beignets; games, prizes, a make-and-take, dancing to Zydeco, Cajun, and Jazz, and some surprises as well. There is plenty of free street parking available. See you there! Contact: Patti Buckley [email protected]. Looking forward to spring, mark your calendars for the Regency Petticoat Bodice workshop March 29th taught by Mela Hoyt-Heydon, and a Black-and-White Tea at Huntington Gardens in late May… plus much more. Make sure to check our website and upcoming Squeals for more info. Questions? Email me at [email protected]

mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]


From the Costume College Dean

I’m so looking forward to the theme for Costume College 2015! “Plucked From The Pages” is all about costuming your favorite literary characters. Have you decided what characters you’ll portray? Nothing like a nighttime stroll to give you ideas. The choices are nearly infinite. The mind is not a book, to be opened at will and examined at leisure. Thoughts are not etched on the inside of skulls, to be perused by an invader. The mind is a complex and many-layered thing. How will you decide? Our tastes vary so much. Differences make good sparks. But you- you have the Spark! Where will you find your inspiration? Books—oh! no. I am sure we never read the same, or not with the same feelings. You can create something so unique to how you see a character that there can only be one. As you design your costumes remember, you see pretty with the heart, not with the eyes. How will you accomplish these exciting costumes? That’s easy; Begin at the beginning, and go on till you come to the end: then stop. And don’t forget the details- the little things are infinitely the most important. When you’re feeling overwhelmed, do not be hasty, that is my motto. As though the fabulosity of all of these amazingly costumed literary characters were not enough, there will be an added incentive to embrace the theme; I have tokens that I was bidden to show to thee – to thee in especial, if thou shouldst dare to come.

I’m sure you have all heard the term “transition year” in regards to this Costume College, but what exactly does it mean? The 2015 year is the first where the theme and the bonus track are entirely separate. The Dean is responsible for the theme and the overall running of College, while the Assistant Dean chooses the bonus track and guest teacher. The Assistant Dean will then translate her bonus track into the theme for the following year when she becomes Dean. The idea of translating is important because the theme will likely not be exactly the same as the previous bonus track. This means that you’ll have a year to utilize all the techniques that you learn, and complete all the projects that you start in the bonus track classes this year. Now you will be able to show them off to their fullest with completed costumes at Costume College events the next year.


That brings us to one of the most important times of year for Costume College, class submissions! We are looking for all types of classes: technique specific classes, overview classes, and project classes. We are hoping for an assortment of classes to help beginners learn about costuming-- everything from Sewing 101, to Reenactment Survival, to Building a Costume from the Thrift Store. By the way, none of these examples are already taken. If you want to teach one of the classes I mentioned, then please do. We are also looking for classes specific to the bonus track, Fabric Manipulation. Please see Dani’s article about the bonus track for more information and inspiration. We’re hoping for an educational and fulfilling curriculum, but we need your participation to make it happen! Rebecca Howard Costume College Dean 2015 [email protected] PS -- The first paragraph is filled with literary quotes, designated by color. I’m offering bragging rights and a $20 Joann’s gift card to the person who identifies the most quotes correctly. Just email me with your list of identified quotes by January 15th. In the case of a tie I will draw a name at random. Good luck!

From the Costume College

Assistant Dean By Dani Crum

Pleating, slicing, stacking, folding, burning, dyeing, twisting...

The term “fabric manipulation” may bring to mind a wealth of technical terms describing ways to alter a simple flat sheet of fabric into something else. But fabric manipulation is not just about techniques and methods. Throughout history (real or imagined) each new fashion, fad or sub-culture of dress has differentiated itself by their ability to alter or embellish the basic fabrics available in their day.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD CIRCA 1960’S (COURTESY WWW.INDEPENDENT.CO.UK)

http://www.independent.co.uk/


Think of the artful rips of the punk look that launched Vivienne Westwood ’s career, the body-contouring pleats of Fortuny that exemplified the ascetic of the pre-Raphaelites, or the detailed, carefully created, slashes of a 16th century doublet.

LAUREN HUTTON IN VINTAGE FORTUNY (COURTESY WWW.ALAINTRUONG.COM)

SWEDISH SLASHED DOUBLET AND BREECHES (COURTESY PINTEREST)

This year at Costume College, the bonus track will focus on techniques and applications for fabric manipulation. In some ways, it’s the exact opposite of the 2014 theme and bonus track “embellishment” – embellishment implies adding something to a fabric or clothing to change it, while fabric manipulation is about changing the base fabric. In real life, things are much more complicated, of course – a folded collar is definitely using fabric manipulation techniques, but it’s used to embellish a shirt.

http://www.alaintruong.com/


We want to think broadly about fabric manipulation – not just expand our horizons of “manipulation” to include both traditional (slashing, folding, pleating) and non-traditional (burning, acid, heat distortion) techniques, but also our definition of “fabric”. While all the traditional fibers are of course a part of that, so too are new fabrics and fibres like Tyvek (popularly used for weatherproofing new buildings), Fosshape (looks and sews like felt, can be hardened with heat), Styrene (can be vacuum thermoformed), Wonderflex (white plastic with mesh, can be hardened), and Warbla (Made from wood pulp, can be softened, shaped, hardened, then burned sanded and painted like wood).

EARLY 17TH CENTURY PLEATED COLLAR FROM THE NETHERLANDS (COURTESY PINTEREST)

“MOONDRAGON” 2012 COSTUME-CON WINNER WITH HORNS MADE OF SHAPED, BURNED WARBLA. (COURTESY COSTUME-CON ARCHIVES)

And we’ve only scraped the surface

of the endless world of fabric manipulation. We’re planning a Costume College that should unlock your imagination and give you tools to make your dreams a reality, no matter what period, planet, species, or fairytale you’re costuming. Come join us for Costume College 2015!


Greetings from Director at Large

Patti Buckley

An Abbreviated History of Mardi

Gras

The history of Mardi Gras can be traced back to early Pagan festivals that were later adapted by the Roman Catholic Church. Based on the European celebration of Carnival, Mardi Gras begins on January 6th, also called 12th Night or Epiphany. Epiphany is 12 days after Christmas and notes the Wisemans’ visit to the Christ child. Carnival season goes from January 6th until exactly midnight on Fat Tuesday, the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Ash Wednesday marks the start of Lent. Lent is the 40 days of penance between Ash Wednesday and Easter Sunday.

Even though, the first organized parade in New Orleans occurred in 1837, it wasn’t until 1857 that the Mystick Krewe of Comus, introduced fully costumed characters on decorated, themed floats. Mardi Gras social clubs or krewes host lavish costume balls and parades. Parades are made up of combinations of floats, truck floats, marching and walking clubs. Riders on the floats toss “throws” to the crowds lining the parade routes, which are followed year after year by the major krewes. Beads, plastic coins and small toys are favorite throws. Most krewes developed from private social clubs with restrictive membership policies. In 1992, laws were passed to force the secret krewes to operate under an open business structure allowing membership to anyone who pays dues and allowing any member a place on the floats. However, even today many established krewes still have membership by invitation only. Every year the Rex Organization chooses a new Rex, King of the Carnival. His motto is “pro bono publico”- for the public good. Rex is always a prominent person in New Orleans, who is given a symbolic key to the city. In 1892, Rex decided the purple of Mardi Gras stood for Justice, the gold for Power and the green for Faith.


By the middle of the 1900’s, fully costumed participants became the norm. Often referred to as “masking”, costumes play an important role in Mardi Gras parades and balls. Costumes were an integral part of the Carnival celebration in Paris. Masks are required by law for float riders. In the beginning, masks allowed the wears to escape class and society constraints. Later, krewes used masks to protect the identity of members. Worn today by revelers and ball attendees, masks add mystery and magic to the celebrations. One can behave in ways he or she normally would not, without fear of social stigma. Mask decorations include paint, feathers, sequins, ribbons, beads and rhinestones. Today, anything goes! Fancy dress fashion plates and photos have amazing creative ideas for Mardi Gras costumes. The Met Costume Institute, fashion plates of Mardi Gras has wonderful material for historical costumers also.

Seeking Classes for

Costume College 2015

It’s January, Happy New Year! My name is Jennifer Byrd, and I’ll be your Programming – Teacher’s Liaison.

This year’s theme is ”Plucked from the Pages,” a wonderfully inclusive theme that can apply to almost all eras and techniques – books, drawings, and blogs cover historical to fantastical character costuming and we’re looking for classes on all aspects of these. There are as many ideas as there are stories that we’ve read, have been written as plays, or scripts for movies. This year’s bonus track is “Fabric Manipulation”. We’re using a loose and modern interpretation of “fabric”, including not just traditional fabric but those made of plants, animals, metals, feathers, and synthetics ranging from polyester and rayon, to warbla and fosshape. Between the theme and the bonus track, whatever you can imagine you can consider for a course, including: Overview classes, fabrication techniques, sewing techniques, project classes, tools and their usage, accessories, undergarments, shaping, molding, armor, ribbon work, shoes, wings, wigs, tailoring, needlework, make-up, hats… Please start thinking about your class ideas. The form for submitting your classes will be available on the Costume College website after January 2, 2015. The deadline for class submissions is February 2, 2015. If you have any questions, please contact me at [email protected].


Thank you, Jennifer Byrd Programming - Teacher’s Liaison Costume College 2015

WHERE DO YOU FIND YOUR INSPIRATIONS?

Portrait of Princess Tatyana Alexandrovna Yusupova, 1858 Francois Xavier Winterhalter


English Ball Dress

Upcoming Events CGW Board of Director’s Meeting (Jan 3) Gathering of the Gunfighters, Yuma Territorial Prison (January 10, 11) CGW goes to Mood Fabrics LA (January 17th) CGW Event -Mardi Gras Party, contact Patti Buckley (February 7th) Dickens Fair meet-up in Riverside (February 21st) Jan 31-Feb 1 Civil War Days Yuma Quartermaster Depot* Jan 31 Viennese Ball, San Diego Jan 31 Jane Austen Tea & Ball SOLD OUT

Looking Ahead Costume College Registration Fees go up! (Jan 5th) Her Royal Majesty’s Steampunk Symposium Queen Mary (Jan) Gallifrey One (February) Civil War Reenactment, Antique Steam Engine Museum, Vista (Mar) CGW goes to the movies: Live action Cinderella film (March 13th) Steampunk Orange Empire Railroad Museum , Perris (Mar) Descanso Gardens Meet-up ( March 28th) Regency Petticoat Bodice Workshop ( March 29th) SDI Grand Spring Ball, Pasadena (April) Fitted Gothic Dress Workshop (April 25th) Costume Con (April) 1915 - Panama - California Exposition Balboa Park (April) Heritage Square Fashion Show (April) Black-and-White Tea at Hunting Gardens (May 16th) Gaslight Gathering (May) The Avalon Ball, Catalina (May) LA Cosplay Con June 2015

Costuming and Jewelry Museum Exhibitions Television Out of the Box. Through 2015, (Wed-Sun) Los Angeles, Paley Center, Warner Bros. $10, $8 senior/student, $5 under 13. Props, costumes from 50+ yrs WB TV. www.paleycenter.org/tp-television-out-of-the-box

Bound to Impress: Corsets from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection. FIDM Gallery Los Angeles. (Jul 22 – Nov 1). [ed Here for a few more months at the LA location of FIDM]


8th Annual Outstanding Art of Television at FIDM (July 22 – Sept 20) FIDM Museum Los Angeles

Hollywood Costume by the Victoria and Albert Museum. Wilshire Mayco Building. Oct 2 2014 – March 2 2015. Los Angeles http://www.oscars.org/hollywoodcostume/index.html

Do you ever consider the "FAIR"??? Your local County fair, that is. For your Sewing & Crafting & Cooking PROJECTS. If you haven’t, then let me ask you this: Why Not? ********************************************** It’s not difficult and it’s not expensive and those things entered there are often seen by thousands! What a way to share!!!! **************************************** I was perusing our local county fair catalog to decide what I may enter this year (our fair is in February) and realized again how appropriate our hobby/passion is for potential entries!!!! All of us here at CGW enjoy & love costuming in SO many aspects. Many make the most amazing & beautiful projects. Things that that most Modern households no longer see, use or make. WE love these wonderful treasures we find in our research, & we also love to Share them. I for one do, but find myself limited at times as to Where to share them. The local county fair is another wonderful resource. What better way to share this passion with New people than by entering something in your fair. And I might add, there is NO rule anywhere about not using vintage patterns and designs in any fair I have looked at. It’s not a difficult or expensive thing to do. Last year the cost at my own county fair was $3.00 per entry. Each fair has its own method of divisions and sections to what you can enter but the rules are spelled out and pretty straightforward. Many fairs are now going online for entries – Ours is totally online this year (with provisions for those who are not computerized) which makes the entries even easier. In fact one can download the ENTIRE fair entry handbook! So I am asking this question for ALL of those of us who sew, knit, crochet (or really any craft) --- WHY NOT share your incredible creations at your fair? Entering for a ribbon is fun (I enjoy the ones I have earned) but ribbons aren’t the actual point of the whole thing. The biggest thrill I have is for people to

http://www.oscars.org/hollywoodcostume/index.html


SEE what we are creating, to enjoy it and be intrigued by it. Perhaps there is a new member of your particular group/activity just waiting to be found out there. For those unfamiliar with such things, here is an example of categories one can enter in OUR county. Your county may have even more. Again, at least in our fair, there is NO regulation stating that ANY of the projects that are judged have to be of modern design. In point of fact, at least from my point of view, the judges seem to LIKE the classic, even vintage type things…. As I told a friend who was nervous about whether her craft would ‘win’ or not. Its not about the win – a judge may simply like, or not like a particular style, so there is no predicting that at all. But it IS about the sharing the beauty of what you have created. Just think of all the wonderful conversations your piece might create! So please – check your local fair entry information and help keep our county fairs from dying from lack of good entries/participation!! Examples in our fair, you can see just about anything can be entered.. TEXTILES & CRAFTS COSTUMES – most period correct clothing would be listed in “other” QUILTED ARTICLES = this includes clothing (I would think a revolutionary war petticoat would be awesome!!) CROCHETED ITEMS / HAND-KNITTED ITEMS EMBROIDERED ITEMS Hand-Embroidered Clothing Hand-Embroidered Household Items - towels, tablecloths, pillows, etc. Other - Type of hand-embroidery must be specified SEWING 1. Baby Clothing 2. Children’s Clothing 3. Ladies Clothing 4. Men’s Clothing 5. Any Suit – Two (2) or Three (3) piece set 6. Other - Type of clothing must be specified (this would be great for things like gloves, ruffs, reticules etc, this category makes me think of the AMAZING things that you as a costumer often make.) Then there are the MISCELLANOUS CRAFTS this is only a FEW examples – our list is a great deal longer……. 1. Appliquéd Item 2. Soap Making 3. Beadwork 4. China Painting 5. Decorated Boxes 6. Candle Making, Leather Craft and many more... Give your FAIR’s a chance and go have some FUN!!!!!


If you are also into vintage recipes try out the Food section of your fair listings great fun there as well (I plan to )

Important Stuff & Colophon

Officers of the Costumer's Guild West, Inc. President: Eileen Smolenski, [email protected] Vice President: Rise Reading, [email protected] Events: [email protected] Recording Secretary: Zoe Jones, Treasurer: Annette Grace Corresponding Sec: Robin Johnson, [email protected] Director at Large: Rebecca Howard, [email protected] Director at Large: Lorri Gums, Director at Large: Maryann Jones , Director at Large: Patti Buckley, Appointed positions: Costume College 2015 Dean: Rebecca Howard, [email protected] Costume College Assistant Dean: Dani Crum, Parliamentarian: OPEN Scholarship Committee Chair: Colleen Crosby, Bookkeeper: Natalie Meyer, Membership Development: OPEN Website Administrator: Colleen Crosby, Community Calendar: Patti Buckley, Social Media Coordinator: Becky Thelin,

A WORD FROM THE EDITOR: By Robin Johnson, Corresponding Secretary A Wonderful New Year to Everyone!!!

Looking forward to so many new & fun things in 2015!!!! “May this New Year bring many opportunities to your way, to explore every joy of life. May your resolutions for the days ahead stay firm, turning all your dreams into reality and all your efforts into great achievements. May the coming year bring for you happiness, success and be filled with peace, hope & togetherness of your family & friends.” Happy New Year to you & your family!

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