spring 2013 (vol. 39)

SPRING 2013 | FEB - MAR - APR

(pictured) St. Charles Exchange’sbraised lamb shank.

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Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com4

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SPRING�2013

ON THE COVER:St. Charles Exchange’sbraised lamb shank.

(see story page 20) Photo by Dan Dry

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5www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013

contents SPRING 2013 - VOLUME 39

RESTAURANT GUIDEDINING GUIDE 52Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurantscomplete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR) 86Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURESCHEF Q & A: Two chefs — Matt Weber of Uptown 14Café and John Plymale of Porcini — answer a few questionsyou’ve always wanted to ask.

PROFILESST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 20Through their décor and menu offerings, St. Charles Exchange will transport you to another time.

MANNY & MERLE 26Tony Palombino’s latest brainstorm adds country funk to Whiskey Row.

FEAST BBQ 46The masked man and his modern take on the world’s oldest cuisine — BBQ.

COLUMNSSTARTERSCOMINGS & GOINGS 6A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, withopenings, closings, moves and more.

FOOD$10 CHALLENGE: The Fish House & Café Beignet 10The Fish House wins the author’s mother’s seal of approval,but can it pass our $10 challenge?

FROM THE EARTH: Clearwater Seafood 32Outpost of the Atlantic Maritimes thrives in Louisville.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Lobster Feast 38Our experts take the fear out of cooking lobster, and the reward is well worth the effort.

LIQUIDSCOFFEE: Coffee & Spirits 12Our coffee expert teams up with our entertainment guru to introduce coffee to a few sunny day libations.

HIP HOPS: Tale of the trub 36Our prognosticator picks six craft beer trends for 2013.

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NEW TABLESAmong the new enterprises to mention this quarter, two of

them are creations of local restaurant heavyweights: The basement space at Actors Theatre of Louisville, 316 W.

Main Street, has seen a series of restaurant and bar concepts overthe years, but the newest, Milkwood, is arguably the mostanticipated since its creator is Edward Lee, celebrated chef-ownerof 610 Magnolia. Over the past two years, Lee has enjoyedcopious national exposure including a large spread in the second-to-last issue of Gourmet magazine, a victory on Iron Chef America,and a third place finish on Top Chef, where he made someappealing creations from animal cheeks and tongues.

The innately artsy, sub-street-level room has been made overto match a menu of clever interpretations of bistro cuisine influ -enced by the “Asian pantry.” Expect lines of people waiting to samplehis pre-show menu for sure, and crowds happy to trot down stairsafter the plays for drinks and hobnobbing with cast and crew.

Building on previous restaurant successes, including GuacaMole, co-owner Fernando Martinez, along with wife Christinaand cousin Yaniel, have opened Mussel & Burger Bar in thelarge space briefly occupied a few years ago by Caffé Perusaat 9200 Taylorsville Road.

Converting the wide-open and extravagantly decorated spacedesigned for its first role as a fine-dining spot, Martinez and hiscrew have created a seemingly more intimate eatery wherecustomers enjoy fresh mussels and half-pound burgers — eachoffered in a number of unique and savory versions.This restaurantis part of the family’s desire to open a new dining concept eachyear, an aggressive goal, no doubt, given the competitive localrestaurant scene.

Another irrepressible local restaurateur who continues to

generate public-pleasing ideas is Tony Palombino. His latest venturebrings him downtown with Manny & Merle in the Whiskey Rowspace at 122 W. Main Street, which old-timers will remember asZena’s Café.

Inspired by his discovery of Mexican street food duringexcursions to the Baja Peninsula and his love for the straight-up,earthy country music of Merle Haggard and others, Palombino’snew place features live music from local and Nashville bands,and a ModMex bar cuisine that shows locals another way toappreciate south-of-the-border flavors.

Other notable openings include Banh Mi Hero, at 2245Bardstown Road, specializing in modern interpretations of theclassic Vietnamese sandwich served on French baguette. Can’twrap your choppers around a big sandwich? Asian-inspired tacosand rice bowls fill out the menu.

Antique browsers fond of Goss Avenue Antiques and Interiors,at 946 Goss Avenue, have long enjoyed the on-premise café forrefueling after a morning of booth-prowling. The current iterationin the space is That Place on Goss, a solid lunch stop that includesSunday brunch. Soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps, desserts —grab a bite and get back to the treasure hunt.

Former It’s All Greek To Me owner Maria Bell has a newventure, Chef Maria’s Greek Deli, at 102 Fairfax Avenue, in St.Matthews. Food 4 Ur Soul has set up shop in the convenientspace on the corner of Fifth and Chestnut (612 S. Fifth Street) thathas seen a lot of turnover in recent years. At 2208 BardstownRoad, Mucho Queso Pizzeria has moved into the space onceinhabited by Fat Jimmy’s Pizza. The name promises a Mexican takeon pizzas, but we have yet to visit for confirmation.

Momma’s Mustard, Pickles and BBQ, at 102 Bauer Avenue,offers Kansas City-style pork and beef ribs, pulled pork, brisket and

starters comings & goings

As the off-again, on-again winter segues, we look toward a more promising spring, when wecan more fully enjoy a local restaurant scene that is still relatively stable, despite a fewnotable closings. There has been a modest uptick in new enterprises, including three newdirections by long-time movers in the industry. In the last three months or so there have been,or soon will be, 17 new restaurant choices, and four existing restaurants have added at leastone new outlet. On the debit side of the roster, 10 restaurants have closed, most notablyLynn’s Paradise Café, and six others with multiple locations have trimmed back a bit. All thoseinvolved in feeding the public can be relieved that things seem, for the moment, copacetic .

comings goings&

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chicken, smoked turkey, and, whenavailable, burnt ends. Also, jars of house-made mustard and pickles, of course. 30Red Sports Saloon, at 9601 NewbridgeRoad, is a new place for Fern Creek’sCardinals fans to congregate and cheer,and Marlyce’s Place, 1404 Eastern Blvd.,Clarksville, is a new bakery offering cus -tom cookies and cakes.

In addition to those newly opened, locallyowned businesses, five new restau rant chainshave entered the area. There are now twoCattleman’s Roadhouses in town, at 2901S. Hurstbourne Parkway and 139 HistoricalTrail in Shepherdsville. The Kentucky chainhas been developing around the area, inFrank fort and Shelby ville, and has nowpene trated this market. Decker’s GrilledSandwiches at 2350 Greene Way is a newconcept extension of the venerable WhiteCastle chain, offer ing slider fans analternative of pressed sand wiches.

Raising Cane’s has a simple businessplan — sell chicken fingers, fries, coleslawand soda. The Louisiana-based chain hasopened an outlet at 10490 Westport Road.Jamba Juice’s blenders are now hummingin Louisville’s Fourth Street Live district at320 S. Fourth Street. And the nation’slargest Chinese fast-food chain, PandaExpress, has brought one of its 1,500-plusunits here to offer its take on American-style Chinese food. Get your own bowl at1075 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville.

Local places on the grow includeLonnie’s Best Taste of Chicago, which hasa new store at 8129 Preston Highway. SalaThai has opened a second location at 10403Glenmary Farm Drive and SuperChef ’sBreakfast, a sort of pop-up restaurant ideathat serves hear ty, creative breakfastdishes in places that aren’t open beforelunch, has now also taken over the kitchenat Seafood Connection, 3941 ChenowethLane, in addition to the original space inthe Gyro’s restaurant in Clifton.

CLOSINGSThe most surprising closing, and one

which will continue to be discussed fora while, was the abrupt shuttering ofnationally known Lynn’s Paradise Café at984 Barret Avenue. Lynn Winter’s criticsand supporters have debated for weekswhy she closed, and the whole story willlikely unfold slowly, if ever. Savvy restaurantwatchers believe, however, that Winterisn’t gone from the scene for good.


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Fans will long lament the closing of acouple of other local establishments. MaidoEssential Japanese, 1758 Frankfort Avenue,so influential in expanding locals’ under -standing of Japanese food beyond sushi,closed with the death of its chef-owner.The closing of Joe Davola’s, 901 BarretAvenue, deprives Highland sandwich eatersof a place with solid, interesting choices.

Two locations at Fourth Street Live arenow gone: Pub Louisville and the ImprovComedy Club/Wet Willy’s, revealing onceagain that the downtown entertainmentcomplex is a hard nut to crack successfully.Also downtown, Main Street Tavern closedits space at 122 W. Main Street (it wassnapped up quickly by Manny & Merle).

Other closings have been small neigh -bor hood places that did not find sufficienttraffic or word of mouth buzz: Queenie’sSoul Cuisine at 2956 Richmond Avenue; LaTapatia at 3022 S. Third Street; Café Aromaat 2295 Lexington Road; and Corner DoorBar & Grill at 2222 Dundee Road.

City Café closed its spot at the BaxterAvenue side of Mid City Mall, 1250 Bard -stown Road, but retains a pair of other loca -tions. Bearno’s closed up shop at 1923 S.Fourth Street, but continues to bake pies ata dozen other outlets. Cellar Door Choco -lates shut its little space in the Galt House,140 N. Fourth Street, but still makes andsells continually interesting and cutting-edgeconfections from its Butchertown shop.Great Harvest Bread Company shut itsNew Albany store at 4214 Charles townRoad, though two area stores remain.

Fat Jimmy’s Pizza closed one branch at2208 Bardstown Road, but has two others,and the Oishii Sushi location at 2245 Bards -town Road has closed, leaving just one.

MOVES & CHANGESStill on the scene at the local library,

Earth Friends Café has moved its NewAlbany Grant Line Road location to 829 E.Market Street in Louisville.

The Fourth Street Live restaurant thatwas so briefly Mozzaria has reopened asQuattro, with a modern Italian food focus.

And finally, the folks at Heine BrothersCoffee have been busy. They opened anew location at 4305 Shelbyville Roadand, after purchasing the brand, broughtthe majority of the VINT Coffee shopsunder their banner — bringing the totallocations bearing the name HeineBrothers to 13. One VINT-branded storeremains in Clifton. F&D


I had to try The Fish House when the restaurant received mymother’s seal of approval.

Mommy has always been a notoriously finicky eater. And a fewyears ago, a doctor diagnosed her with a laundry list of food allergiesranging from carrots to cucumbers. So imagine my delight when shefinds a local restaurant that addresses her dietary restrictions, offersenough menu options to please her picky palate, and provides foodthat actually tastes good.

The Fish House met Mommy’s high standards and has beenadded to the list of restaurants she frequents. This is a good sign forthe rest of us.

The Fish House is a seafood restaurant that transforms into CaféBeignet, a New Orleans-style brunch eatery, on weekend mornings.This winning combination offers down-home food so authentic that ittransports diners to the gulf shore within two bites of fresh scrod orsweet beignets. And with plenty of dishes less than $10, a visit to thisrestaurant is probably the cheapest way to travel.

The Fish House is in a modest white and blue building that sits near the corner of Winter and Barrett Avenues. The restaurantfeels as if it has been plucked from a riverfront. The main dining area is more of a well-insulated enclosed porch. The walls and windowsare full of fluorescent beer signs, family photos and newspaper clippings praising the venue.

Weekend mornings are dedicated to Café Beignet, which offers a different menu from its weekday Fish House identity. The brunchmenu features traditional breakfast dishes like a ham and cheese omelet with fried potatoes ($7.95) and link sausage ($2.95). But thestar of the show is the beignet ($1.25 each or $2.95 for three), a hollow French pastry fried and coated in powdered sugar that ispopular in New Orleans.

about food $10 challenge BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Scrod sandwich combo(choice of bread not pictured)

$10challenge

The Fish House& Café Beignet

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The restaurant was a beacon on a damp weekday night when my husband and Irushed in about an hour before closing. A University of Kentucky game played across theflat-screen TVs, while country music piped in through the restaurant’s speakers. Theclutter, cacophony of sounds and bright lights welcomed us to a warm, unpretentiousenvironment that offered meals with the same comforting qualities.

The Fish House side of this establishment’s identity serves several kinds of fish to sea -food lovers like me — scrod, catfish, tilapia and haddock.These are available as sandwiches(starting at $4.95) or dinners that come with fries and coleslaw ($9.95-$13.95). Not toobig on fish fillets? Shrimp, pan-fried oysters and clams are also available.

The side dishes are even more diverse than the main dishes. Most seafood joints endtheir offerings after hush puppies, French fries and coleslaw. The Fish House goes aboveand beyond with choices like green beans with bacon ($1.75), potato pancakes ($2.50),and macaroni and cheese ($1.75).

All these choices kept me at the counter for a few long minutes. Fortunately, thecashier was patient until I settled on a fried scrod sandwich combo that included fries andslaw ($7.95). While we waited for our meal, my husband and I helped ourselves to a stackof little paper cups and filled them with house-made jalapeño tartar sauce. The condimentwas an intriguing mint-green concoction that mellows out the usual kick of jalapeñoswhile retaining the pepper’s flavor.

The food arrived in less than 10 minutes. My meal was a piping hot tangle of brown— crisp French fries, two fillets of scrod and a wheat bun. But upon closer inspection, Icould see plenty of flecks of black pepper mixed into the dark yellow cornmeal breadingof the fish. The lack of color was solved when I spread some jalapeño tartar sauce ontothe fish.

The fish was so fresh it could have been pulled out of the water that morning. Thecrust hugged each fillet and crunched with every bite. The jalapeño tartar sauce com -plemented the peppery fish perfectly. The French fries were some of the best I’ve had inages. Not too skinny, not too fat, and very, very crispy. A splash of malt vinegar on the fishand the fries added a finishing touch to my tasty meal.

My husband was just as pleased with his choice of the fried clam strip dinner ($9.95).The bite-sized strips were salty on the inside with a generous breading on the outside.It was hard to resist popping them into our mouths like breath mints. The coleslawtempered all of the fried food we consumed. This cabbage-based side dish was creamyand a little sweet, a necessity after a plate full of salty items.

As I scurried to my car clutching a to-go box with a leftover piece of scrod and someslaw, I realized why my mother had become so fond of The Fish House. The menu has alittle something for everyone, and the restaurant serves its wide selection in a cozy spotthat can take you to another world. It indeed pays to listen to your mother. F&D

The Bottom Line:Scrod Sandwich Combo: $7.95Fried Clam Strip Dinner: $9.95Total (with tax and before tip): $18.97Total for each person: $9.48Mission: Accomplished — twice.


The Fish House | 1310 Winter Ave. | (502) 568-2993

Beignets (served weekend mornings)

Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it ispossible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse andexpanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs$10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cash-strapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house.

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&liquids coffee BY DAVID LANGE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

SpiritsCoffee

COFFEE MARTINI4 ounces cold coffee1 ounce Crème de Cocoa1 ounce Vodka

1/2 ounce half & half

Place all the ingredients into acocktail shaker with ice. Shake for30 seconds. Rim a martini glasswith cocoa powder and strain thecocktail into the glass. Garnishwith shaved chocolate.

Another variation on a coffeemartini adds a little elegance tothe finish product, as shown in theTennessee-Tini.

TENNESSEE-TINI3 ounces cold coffee

11/2 ounces Jack DanielsTennessee Honey

1 ounce hazelnut liqueur

Place all ingredients into a cocktail

On a warm summer evening,there can be few things more re -fresh ing than coffee blended withcordials to make an after dinnercocktail like our Chocolate Rasp -berry Torte.

CHOCOLATERASPBERRY TORTE3-4 ounces cold coffee

1 ounce Crème de Cocoaliqueur

1 ounce Chambord blackraspberry liqueur

Place all the ingredients into acocktail shaker with ice. Shake for20 seconds. Rim a mar tini glasswith sugar and strain the cocktailinto the glass. Garnish with freshraspberries if desired.

For those super-muggy sum -mer evenings, we decided weneeded a cocktail that couldrefresh and cool you down withsouth of the border flavor. Thiscocktail promises to do just that.

GOOD MORNINGGUADALAJARA

3 ounces cold coffee11/2 ounces Herradura

Reposado tequila1 ounce Cointreau

1/2 ounce simple syrup

Place all ingredients into a cocktailshaker with crushed ice. Shake for30 seconds. Pour into a tall glass.Garnish with an orange twist.

shaker with ice. Shake for 20 seconds. Rim a martini glass withhoney and dip into crushed nuts. Strain the cocktail into the glass.

As summer approaches with its heat and humidity, everyone looks for ways to stay cool and still enjoy the increased entertainmentand festivities that warmer temperatures bring. Cocktails have become more and more creative, and I thought I could introduce coffeeto some summertime libations. Before undertaking this project, I knew that I would need a “cocktail expert” to guide me through thevarious levels of cocktails that could be introduced. I could think of no one more qualified than my good friend and fellow columnist,Tim Laird, the CEO (that’s the “Chief Entertainment Officer”) for Brown-Forman, who knows his way around the cocktail realm. Weboth have a true passion — Tim for creating imaginative cocktails and me for fantastic coffee.

So on a warm and rainy Sunday afternoon, we met at his house in his “libation lab” and started creating caffeine concoctions. Onething that is very important when using coffee in a cocktail that is going to be added to, or shaken with, ice is to make sure that it isbrewed correctly. My suggestion is to double brew, or in other words, when brewing, use double the amount of ground coffee than younormally would use. After brewing, allow it to cool before placing it in an airtight container and storing it in your refrigerator. Coffeecan be stored this way for up to two weeks, for a constant supply of coffee base for your coffee cocktails.

So what were some of the ideas that Tim and I came up with? We started with the basic coffee martini, which has many variations.But starting with this basic drink, you can add or subtract to meet your personal choice.

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Everyone is aware of how hot coffeeadded to cocktails can produce a warmingelixir that can eliminate the chill from thecoldest winters. Now we see how icedcoffee added to summer cocktails canrefresh as well as cool down the hottestsummer event. However, if you do notimbibe alcoholic cocktails, then be sure totry just straight iced coffee.

Coffee that is double brewed andpoured into a glass filled with ice canbe the perfect answer to Louisville’ssweltering summers. Whether you drink itblack or with cream and sweetener, youwill be amazed at how refreshing this drinkcan be.

Whether it be served hot or cold,alone or in a cocktail, “coffee when wellprepared is beyond question, one of theambrosial luxuries of modern life.” F&D

RestoreRefresh Revive

Offering:

812 923 2884

CAFFE NAW’LINS3 ounces chicory-laced cold

coffee11/2 ounces Southern Comfort

1/2 ounce Cointreau2 drops of orange bitters

Place all ingredients into a cocktailshaker with ice . Shake it for 30seconds and strain into a tall highballglass filled with ice.

CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS!

As a tributeto NewOrleans, oneof the greatcities forcocktails andalso rich, darkcoffee, wecreated ourCaffe Naw’linsto meldliquids fromthis great cityinto a MardiGrascelebrationdrink.

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Age: 46Current Restaurant: Uptown CaféPrevious Restaurants: Café MetroNeighborhood (current): Crescent HillHometown: Louisville (high school: Trinity)Spouse: Susan BiasiolliKids: Sons Griffin (16) and Gabe (12)Favorite Hobbies: Cycling, swimmingFavorite Cookbook: The Joy of Cooking, by IrmaRombauer — “for techniques, more than recipes”Favorite Kitchen Gadget: A sharp knife

CHEF MATT WEBER

Qpeople and places profiles BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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Q&A (pictured below, from left)Smoked gouda and tomatillo

queso with chips; grilled shrimptacos with guacamole and

sweet potato hay; grilled duckbreast with Bourbon molassessauce, fresh vegetable medley

and mashed potatoes.

Matt Weber will be the first to tell you he’s not part of Louisville’s cheffraternity. But he is part of a restaurant family of sorts, working since he was18 in Nancy Shepherd’s Uptown Café and its upscale sibling, the now closedCafé Metro. At the Uptown, he was an assistant pastry chef and prep cook,mentored by chefs Eric Sinnott, Dave Barnes and John Edgerton. Executivechef at Uptown Café since 1992, Weber has worked closely with kitchenpartner and sous chef Laurie Banta for the past decade. A self-professed laid-back guy, he sat down to talk with F&D one Monday morning in November.

What is your first food memory? “My mother was a single mother. I remem -ber my sisters making spinach egg noodleswith butter and parmesan and black pepper.We were little, and we had to eat. Mom wasat work.”

Who has influenced your cooking themost?“My mother, my grandfather, my father.He pushed me. When he wanted to knowhow to fix something himself, he’d ask me.My mother was an at-home gourmet inthe seventies and early eighties.”

Why did you choose to cook this typeof cuisine — new American bistro with aregional twist? “It’s eclectic. If you pick up my menu, you’llsee regional stuff, a lot of Italian, French,Asian influence. I can put anything I wanton there because we’ve got such a widevariety.”

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? “Cumin and thyme.”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your

kitchen — something you’d rather notbe spotted using? “Sometimes I use soup bases instead offresh stock. There’s not always time tomake fresh.”

What cooking skill required in yourkitchen is the most difficult to master? “Good knife technique is probably themost difficult. I always tell people to goslow. I’d rather you go really slow thanchop your fingertip off. ’Cause then you’reno good to me.”

Dumbest thing you’ve ever done in akitchen? (Laughs.) “I have chopped a couple of finger -tips at different times. And I dropped a rawcheesecake into a case of lettuce.”

If you had to work for one chef in theworld, who would it be? “I don’t know if I could. I’ve been the bossfor too long. But I would work with some -one and learn some stuff. I like JamieOliver. I’d definitely like to cook with him.He could teach me a lot about nutrition.

People ask me about nutrition, and I don’tknow. I’m a chef.”

What do you aspire to? “I kind of grew up on that corner there [atCafé Metro and Uptown Café]. They’rekind of my family. I’m pretty comfortablehere. I’d like to have my own place some -day, but I’m not actively planning anything.”

If you could cook a meal for anyone,who would it be? “My mother. I was a junior in high schoolwhen she passed away. It would have to bevegetarian.”

What music was playing in the kitchenlast night? “The Rolling Stones, ‘Dancing with Mr. D.’I had a playlist of all the songs that startedwith D on my iPod.”

What’s in your fridge at home? “A gallon of past-due milk. Some freshvegetables from my CSA farmer: a quarterhead of Napa cabbage, some sor t ofdelicious spinach with purple stems, a

(See WEBER, page 18)


Age: 49Current Restaurant: PorciniPrevious Restaurants: The Terrace, Afro-GermanTearoom, various Grisanti propertiesNeighborhood (current): Oldham CountyHometown: Louisville (high school: Atherton)Spouse: Kim PlymaleKids: Daughters Leah (19) and Kara (14)Favorite Hobbies: Tournament fishing, gardeningFavorite Cookbook: Camille Glenn’s Heritage ofSouthern Cooking and other “old-school,indigenous Kentucky cookbooks”Favorite Kitchen Gadget: His mind — “beingorganized, knowing staff members’ strengths …”

CHEF JOHN PLYMALE

Qpeople and places profiles BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY


Q&AWhat is your first food memory? “Mom and Grandma. I remember myGrandma making a white chiffon cake witha white icing and coconut and a fantasticlemon curd she’d put between the layers. Ican almost taste that cake and her lemonmeringue pie. Holidays, everybody’d bewatching ballgames, but I’d kind of bewatching the cooking.”

Who has influenced your cooking themost?“My grandmother, Elizabeth Cull, and mymother, Jeanne Gibson, were my biggeststarting influences.”

How about professionally? “Chef Dominic Serratore at Casa Grisante.Deedee Stokes at Afro-German Tearoom— she was an amazing cook. That res -taurant was a 100 percent scratch opera -tion, and I learned a lot about technique,about organization in the kitchen. Masterpastry chef Bernd Gronert [at Johnson &Wales University’s culinar y school inProvidence, R.I.].”

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? “Garlic. And olive oil.”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your

kitchen — something you’d rather notbe spotted using?“We stay pretty true to our roots. It’svery seldom we’ll use frozen or processeditems. We’re, I’d say, a 96 to 98 percentscratch operation here. You can see by allthis coming in.” (He gestures to indicate thesteady stream of deliveries.)

What’s your greatest strength in thekitchen?“My ability to stay even-keeled underpressure. I almost thrive on it. It’s almost anadrenaline rush. It’s why I still enjoy beingon the line every night.”

What’s your downfall? “Spending too much time on the day-to-day operations and maybe not enough onthe research and development part of it.”

Besides Porcini, what is your favoriterestaurant in Louisville? “Corbett’s. Dean is a very good friend. Andin Shelbyville, Science Hill Inn. We’ll gothere for Sunday brunch.”

Who are your favorite chefs? “My good friends: chefs Dean Corbett,Dave Moeller, Michael Cunha, Mac McBride,Josh Moore, Alex Perez.”

Other than your own restaurant, what’sthe first place you’d take an out-of-towner? “Science Hill Inn. It’s a good representationof the food of Kentucky.”

What cooking skill required in yourkitchen is the most difficult to master? “Having been here 22 years, I don’t knowthat there’s a technique out there that wedon’t employ in our everyday cooking.”

Dumbest thing you’ve ever done in akitchen? “I was leaving in a hurry for a U of L foot -ball game and I’d left some bacon in theoven. I went back to take it out and theoven doors hit the tray, it flew up in the airand bacon came down all over my sweater.The hot grease soaked through thesweater and burned my forearm, andwhen I pulled the sweater off it poppedthe blister. It was pretty bad.”

The last time you had a real nightmareof a night … “It was our opening week of Porcini andwe were supposed to be doing a softopen with about 75 guests the staff had

(pictured below, from left)Crispy pork belly with braised greens

and shallot polenta; seared scallopswith tomato concasse, toasted

pignola and a Romani sauce; grilledjumbo shrimp in a lemon garlic sauce

with a spring vegetable risotto.

(See PLYMALE, page 19)

Chef John Plymale has been with Porcini since before its 1992 opening.Twenty-plus years later, the restaurant seems like an exten sion of thechef himself. A thoughtful and affable guy, Plymale sat down for aconversation before the ritual of a nightly staff meal, which he cited asone factor in the staff’s dedication and longevity. “We can take fifteenminutes out of our crazy day,” Plymale says, “and sit down togetherand eat and talk and have that bond.”



Q&AWEBER (continued from page 15)

butternut squash, fresh garlic, carrots.Some Thanksgiving leftovers … chorizocornbread dressing with pecans andcheddar and jalapenos. I made that.”

Is there anything in that home fridgeyou’d rather not admit to having?“The expired milk.”

What was the last book you read?“The third book in The Hunger Gamestrilogy: Mockingjay.”

What food is your guilty pleasure? “I have a horrible sweet tooth. I’ll eatanything from chocolate soufflé to a LittleDebbie Nutty Bar.”

Your favorite quick meal to prepare athome?“Tacos, with beans and really good freshcorn tortillas.”

Which seasonings don’t you respect? “I think there’s a place for all seasonings.But I don’t like the pre-made stuff, ingeneral.”

Best cooking tip for a novice? “Salt your pasta water. It definitely bringsthe flavor of the pasta out. And don’t beafraid to try a new recipe, and don’t bediscouraged if it doesn’t come out prettyas a picture. Try it again — or order pizza.”

What do you think is the nextworthwhile food/dining trend?“In my world, we’ll come up with an ideaand we’ll see it in a trade magazine amonth later. Recently, Laurie came up withchorizo corn dogs, and then she sawessentially the same thing on the Internet.It was uncanny how close it was.”

Besides the Uptown, what is yourfavorite restaurant in Louisville? “I really like Nam Nam.”

Who are your favorite chefs? “I think Dave [Truong] at Nam Nam isreally good. Jim Gerhardt. Ed Lee. I’m notinto the chef fraternity. I like Jamie Oliver.His show The Naked Chef really had a laid-back approach, which is a lot of the way Iam in life and in cooking. I don’t get uptightabout cooking at all, and I have no pre ten -sions. Good food is good food.”

Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you notwant to battle? (Laughs.) “I’m afraid of all of ’em.”

Other than the Uptown, what’s the firstplace you’d take an out-of-towner? “610 Magnolia.”

Give us one reason Louisville should beconsidered a culinary destination. “Because there’s so many great chefs andrestaurants here. I mean, the competition’sfierce. It’s unbelievable. You’ve got main -stays like the Uptown, and then there’sThe Blind Pig, Harvest, Decca, all the newplaces opening up. There’s three restaurantrows in Louisville! And then offshoots ofthat. I’ve seen a lot of places come andgo, but it seems like the number of restau -rants is increasing. And the number ofgood restaurants is increasing. You haveto be on your game all the time. You can’treally slip.”

How do you feel about the pressure?“I’d like to have more customers. We’rediligent about changing our menu at leasttwice a year to keep it fresh. Changingthe drinks menu frequently. Trying tostay proactive.”

What are you doing in the kitchen nowthat you’re excited about?“We’re doing a lot more sandwiches, andI’m pretty excited about them. We’ve gota grilled goat cheese sandwich, toastedopen-faced with blackberr y jam andserved with mixed baby greens, drizzledwith a balsamic reduction. A hot ham andAmerican cheese sandwich with shreddediceberg lettuce, a fried egg and Srirachaaioli. A Cobb salad sandwich with turkey,bacon, avocado, and bleu cheese dressing.Sandwiches always make me happy. My lastmeal would be a sandwich.”

Your last food-related “wow moment”was … ? “My fried turkey. I made it for Thanksgiving.I took my Obama sign’s metal frame andturned the prongs into hooks and squishedthe long part into a handle, and took mytwo turkeys and trussed their legs withcoathangers and slipped the hooks underthe wire. You dunk it two or three times inoil at 375, and they’re done in 52 minutes.

What’s your last meal on earth, if youhad the chance to choose? “A BLT, with a really ripe, delicious Augusttomato from the garden, Hellmann’s may -on naise, black pepper, Bibb lettuce and acouple of Corona Lights.” F&D


Q&A


A invited. But all these people star tedshowing up, and they [the host staff] letthem in. We ended up serving over 200people. I had a couple cooks walk out onme because they couldn’t handle thepressure. It was pretty wild.”

If you had to work for one chef in theworld, who would it be?“Alice Waters. Her approach to food is alot like mine. I’d like to think we’d have agood relationship.”

What do you aspire to? “I love the community I work in, the facilityI work in. I have a great owner, great staff.[But] I aspire to dedicate more time tomy wife. There’s a lot of bir thdays, a lotof anniversaries I haven’t been able to bethere for.”

If you could cook a meal for anyone,who would it be? “My family and friends. Twice a year a lot ofchefs locally take a vacation together. Wecook for each other. It’s not that we try tooutdo each other ; we just want to dosomething nice for each other.”

What music was playing in the kitchenlast night? “Jimmy Buffet.”

What was the last book you read?“Cover to cover? Kitchen Confidential. I alsoread Jesse Stuart’s The Beatinest Boy. Mygrandmother gave me that book.”

What’s in your fridge at home? “Usually some type of pasta left over fromour evening service here at the restaurant.Colonel Newsom’s country ham. Neuske’sbacon. Some pomegranate. A lot of fixingsfor my daughter’s lunchbox.”

Is there anything in that home fridgeyou’d rather not admit to having?“There’s probably something moldy backin the corner.”

What food is your guilty pleasure? “Anything anyone else cooks for meinstead of the other way around.”

Your favorite quick meal to prepare athome?“Anything grilled. Pork or a nice steak.”

Which seasonings don’t you respect? “I try to use fresh herbs over dry herbs anychance I get.”

Which are underrated? “Saffron.”

Best cooking tip for a novice? “Make sure to have all your mise-en-placein place before you start something you’renot familiar with.”

What do you think is the nextworthwhile food/dining trend?“We’re in the midst of it r ight now.The local artisanal product. The artisanalcheese, the farmers’ market, your owngarden or orchard. The public has becomeso well educated with the Food Networkand cooking shows. They’ve brought a lotof people back into the kitchen. In theseventies, eighties, early nineties, it was allabout convenience. I’d like to see everyonesit down for the family meal every nightand talk over the day over good food.”

Give us one reason Louisville should beconsidered a culinary destination. “You have to look at the sheer volume ofrestaurants. Some people would probablysay we’re almost a saturated market. Thedegree of good quality establishments outthere has increased twofold over the last

10 years. There’s a lot of young talent outthere that are mixing up our culinaryscene. Even some of the food trucks.”

Your last food-related “wow moment”was … ? “My sous chef spent a lot of time with abraised pork belly that’s new to the menu.Sautéed organic greens; a polenta cake withcaramelized shallots, fontina and parmigiano;pork belly; and a blood orange agrodolce.”

Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you notwant to battle? “I don’t think professionally there’s anybodyI wouldn’t want to go up against. Personally,I wouldn’t want to go against an old employeeor good friend because one of us wouldlose, and hopefully it would be them. It’salmost like a fraternity here; you’d neverwant to have anybody humiliated becausethey lost to you. [But] I’m never afraid ofcompetition. I think it drives the world.”

What’s your last meal on earth, if youhad the chance to choose? “A meal my mother and grandmotherprepared for me. It wouldn’t even matterwhat it was; it’s just the company.” F&D

PLYMALE (continued from page 17)


people and places profiles BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

St. Charlesexchange

113 S. Seventh St.

Louisville, KY

502 .618 .19 17

20-25_St Charles Exch_spr13_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 1/30/13 12:19 PM Page 20

The Victorian-era building has a kind of tucked-away feeling,located as it is on Seventh Street just south of Main and across from21C. With high ceilings, exposed-brick walls and floors of polishedreclaimed barn wood, St. Charles Exchange could be loud andimpersonal, but its hard edges are softened by the lush, bourbon-hued drapes on the floor-to-ceiling windows and a black leatherbanquette that runs the length of the main dining area. Sofas andchairs define a cozy lounge area inside the front door.

The entire right side of the room is dominated by an ornateblack bar with nearly two dozen stools, where bartenders wearingflamboyant shirts and suspenders take their time crafting cocktails

and chatting with their customers, encouraging them to linger. Sitting here, it’s easy to imagine you’rein the lobby bar of the St. Charles Hotel, which occupied the building from 1866 to 1888.

“That’s the feel we were going for,” said owner Amy Hoffmann Frey. “There is a lot of history here.” The colorful history of the building at 113 S. Seventh St. includes its use in 1873 as a hideout for

a gang of bank robbers led by master forger Walter Sheridan, according to the book “ProfessionalThieves and the Detective” by Allan Pinkerton.

T(left) St. Charles

Exchange’s braised lambshank with Weisenbergergrits, Swiss chard and fig

in an espresso sauce.


hrough their décor and menuofferings, many restaurants inLouisville transport you to anotherplace, but St. Charles Exchangetransports you to another time.Open just since Derby 2012, italready feels like it’s beenwelcoming visitors since the turnof the century — the 20th century.

St. Charles Exchange once again encouragesguests to linger in the Victorian-era building


While one group of thieves was diggingat night toward the vault of the Falls CityTobacco Bank, Pinkerton writes, the others“were posted in a front room over the St.Charles restaurant immediately opposite”keeping watch. “In this manner the thieves hadan abundance of time and leisure, and finallyeffected an entrance to the vault … whenthey carried away almost everything of valuethe vault contained,” he concludes.

After the hotel closed, the buildinghoused the Bernheim Bros. Bourbon Distilleryand Warehouse. A wall made from barrelstaves in the restaurant’s private dining roomgives a nod to that chapter of its story.

“The name St. Charles came from thebuilding, of course,” Amy Frey said. “ ‘Exchange’is what they used to call hotel lobby bars inthe early 1900s. They were a place for peopleto exchange social graces and make businessexchanges. But Louisville was also a big city ofexchange because it was a river town. It alltied in.”

She and her husband, Rob Frey, andinvestor David McGuire opened St. CharlesExchange with family and friends of the Freysfrom Philadelphia who operate the FranklinMortgage & Investment Co., a speakeasy-typebar, and Lemon Hill, a restaurant and bar inwhich they partnered with noted Chef MitchPrensky of Philadelphia’s Supper restaurant.

Prensky created St. Charles Exchange’sinitial menu, which promised innovativevariations of classic items from the turn of thecentury — the Elvis on Horseback appetizer,

(above) Lamb burger on anEnglish muffin with curried

onions and lamb fat fries.(pictured) Scottish salmonwith parsnip mash, Swiss

chard and fried carrot.

Chef Patrick McCandless


for instance, a twist on Devils on Horseback thatfeatures banana vinaigrette with bacon-wrapped,peanut butter-stuffed dates.

Several months in, chef de cuisine PatrickMcCandless, an Indiana native who studied culinaryarts at Sullivan University, became head chef, andthe menu has evolved to include more regionalcuisine under his direction — see the KentuckyHot Brown Monte Cristo and Pork Belly Reuben.“I wanted to focus more on the Southern-stylecuisine and the great products Kentucky has tooffer,” he said. “I have also been working closelywith local farmers to get the freshest products thatare in season.”

Some of the restaurant’s most popular itemsare its daily selection of deviled eggs; the root beerchicken wings; the scallops with country ham; andthe St. Chuck Burger, an 8-ounce lamb patty on anEnglish muffin.

McCandless has added more vegetarianoptions to the menu and plans to incorporatesome low-country influences in the future as well.

Even more than its food, St. Charles Exchangequickly became known for its retro-inspiredcocktails, complicated concoctions involving exoticingredients like absinthe, Benedictine and Pimm’s.Many incorporate the bar’s house-made syrups —ginger, grapefruit, cinnamon and such — and allare served over the proper kind of ice, whethercrushed or formed into a rock that will melt slowly,so as not to water things down.

The cocktail program is over seen by barmanager Colin Shearn, a well-known bar tenderwhose drinks have been featured in national publi -ca tions. As general manager of The Franklin inPhiladelphia, he originally ser ved in a consultingrole at St. Charles Exchange, but he fell in love withthe restaurant and the city and moved his familyhere.

He brought with him The Franklin’s “punchbowl” concept — large-format servings of what ever

Towering draped windows,old wood, crafted leatherand well-tailored fabrics

greet you in this old-world space. (right) Aclassic to match the space— The Old-Fashioned.

(top)The Billet-Doux —rum, cassis, cocchi

Americano and lime juice.


(above) Pork belly“Reuben” withbraised cabbage,pickle relish, rye

bread pudding andGruyere fondue.

(right) A Louisvilleclassic, the mint

julep. (middle, right)Deviled eggs —

stir fry, olive, truffle,loaded potato andpickled pepper.

(far right) “Elvis onHorseback” —peanut butterstuffed dates,

wrapped in bacon.(top right) Dailycheese board.

Spring 201324


punch recipes are on the current menu, meant to beshared by six to 10 people. “It’s one of my favoritethings to see at the bar — a communal experiencebringing people together,” he said. “It’s almostimpossible to have a bad time drinking a bowl ofpunch.”

While St. Charles Exchange is located just offLouisville’s historic “Whiskey Row,” where a Bourbonrenaissance is taking place, one thing you won’t findthere is a list of 50-plus Bourbon brands. The Exchangehas a respectable Bourbon list and features the spiritin several cocktails, but quantity isn’t Shearn’s goal.

“I think curation is one of the most important,and often overlooked, aspects of a bar program,” hesaid. “Sure, I could bring in 100 more Bourbons. Butwhy? The back bar is only so big, I can only expect mystaff to know so many products, I don’t want to carryan extra $5,000 in inventory. I also just edited thecocktail list. I want it to cover a certain amount ofterrain, spirit and flavor wise; I want it to be fun andexciting. What I don’t want is for people to be intimi -dated by two pages of esoteric ingredients and flavorsthey’re not familiar with. That’s not fun for anyone.”

What is fun is being behind a bar that so definesa space — both literally and figuratively. The vintagefeel that St. Charles Exchange seems to have effort -lessly achieved in just months is due in no small partto that “grand old hotel bar” vibe, Shearn said.

It hasn’t happened yet, Frey said, but “I wouldn’tbe surprised to have someone come in here and ask,‘Where do we check in?’ You never know.” F&D


TThe new place, Manny & Merle, which opened in

late November in the building at Second and Main thatonce housed Zena’s Café, features a short list of tacosand sandwiches, house-made salsa, a trio of house-madeguacamoles and a couple of salads and desser ts,complemented by an extensive list of Bourbons andtequilas. The one-sheet menu makes ordering quick and

easy, a bonus if you’re on your way to a concert or game at the KFC Yum! Center across the street.“This is a destination location,” Palombino said. “The bar is the main focus, and we back that up

with creative food and round it out with live music four or five nights a week.” Palombino, the brains behind Tony BoomBozz and AP Crafters, said he’d been eyeing this

location for almost a year, drawn by its proximity to the arena, the city’s intention to develop WhiskeyRow and “just being downtown in general. It’s an area that’s just hitting its stride.”

Mool

Manny & Merleproprietor Tony

Palombino

Tony Palombino is at it again.The dining-concept king whobrought fish tacos and potato-topped pizza to Louisville is nowserving up “ModMex” cuisinewashed down with Bourbon andtequila and followed by a chaserof live music in a honkytonk onWest Main Street’s Whiskey Row.

Manny & Merle,Tony Palombino’slatest brainstorm,adds country funkto Whiskey Row

people and places profiles BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Mex


26-31_Manny&Merle_spr13_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 1/30/13 12:23 PM Page 26

Crispy PBR beer-battered fish tacowith shavedcabbage, salsa frescaand baja crema.

Manny &Merle

122 W. Main St.

Louisville, KY

502 .290.8888


He drew inspiration for the dining concept from honkytonks in Texasand California in the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s. “The kitchens were run byMexican immigrants who served up Old World Mexican — what we nowcall Modern Mexican, basically a modern take on Mexican street food,”he said. “That’s where the ‘Manny’ comes in.”

“Merle,” of course, is Merle Haggard, whose gritty, blue-collar musicsets the tone for the honkytonk atmosphere Palombino is going for atManny & Merle.

The shotgun-style space has been warmed with brick walls up front andwood-plank walls in the back. A black-leather banquette runs down the rightside of the restaurant; bar-height tables and tall black stools provide moreseating. Large ceiling fans connected by belts that run the length of theceiling give a nice “old-timey” feel. Servers wear cowboy-style shir ts withpiping and snaps.

The large bar was built in 1920. Sitting atop it are a miniature Route 66gas pump, a bass fiddle covered in license plates and a small WoodfordReser ve barrel. A nearby chalkboard adver tises the $3 Bourbon andtequila shots of the day.

“When I saw the location, here on Whiskey Row, I felt compelledto incorporate the histor y of Bourbon” in the concept, Palombinosaid. The Bourbon list currently stands at 54, but he is shooting for at least60 and a spot on the Urban Bourbon Trail. That would seem entirelyappropriate, considering that a large portion of the side of the building iscovered by a poster celebrating Bourbon innovator and Brown-Formanfounder George Garvin Brown, credited with being the first to sell Bourbonin bottles.


Manny & Merle also carries 32 kinds oftequila, in keeping with the menu. “People arealways amazed by the number of tequilas wehave,” said general manager Emily Tolle. Creativecocktails include the popular Sarsparilla (BuffaloTrace Bourbon with cinnamon schnapps androot beer), the Sangritatini (a martini featuring ElJimador tequila and house-made sangrita) andthe Blue-Eyed Merle, which combines Bourbonand tequila, along with sour mix, triple sec andblue curacao.

The place has been busy since it opened, shesaid, particularly on the day of the UofL-UKgame, when former Cards coach Denny Crumstopped by. But things have gone smoothly, whichshe credited to the overall vision and direction ofPalombino, with whom she first worked at APCrafters, his gastropub in Westport Village.

His philosophy, she said, is “this is what weare; this is who we are; and we will always bethis,” she said. “That makes it easy for the staff toexecute things well.”

Palombino takes a very hands-on role indeveloping each of his concepts, from the décorto the food to the beverage program. While hedoesn’t have professional culinary training, he

does have a backg round infood, having grown up in therestaurant industry. His father,mother and sister moved tothe States from Naples, Italy,and ran Italian restaurants inLexington and Orlando beforemoving in 1975 to Louisville,where they operated severalother eateries.

I n 1997 , Pa lomb inoopened his first concept inLouisvi l le , Thatsa Wrapp.After selling it, he openedBoomBozz Pizza, home ofthat chicken-and-potato-topped pizza, the Pollotate.Now i n i t s 15 t h ye a r,BoomBozz has grown fromthat one small carryout anddelivery store to multiple sit-down locations featuring craftbeer as well as gourmet pizza.

About the same time, healso developed Baja Grill —later sold and renamed Bazo’s— which brought fish tacosfrom the West Coast toLouisville. “Fish tacos havealways been dear to me,”he said. “I love fish tacos. Iremem ber when I first put

Along with several views ofManny & Merle’s interior— including the image ofnamesake Merle Haggard(top right) — are some of

their drink and menuitems. Food — (above)

Roasted wild mushroomtaco with corn salsa, Cotija

cheese and pickled redonion. (left) Seared porkbelly torta with poachedegg, guacamole and red

onion. (far left) Flank steaktaco with guacamole, redonion, cilantro and lime.

Drinks — (above, right)TheMannyrita — Lunazul

Blanco tequila, triple secand fresh squeezed lime

juice. (left)Tequila shot witha homemade sangrita back.

(far left) A shot in the boot— choice of Bourbon with

a PBR draft back.


(clockwise fromabove) Choppedsalad with blackbeans, avocadoand a cilantro-

honey vinaigrette;trio of guacamole

— traditional,grilled pineapple

and roasted corn;chips and chorizo

queso; Bourbonflan with a candiedpistachio crumble;

sopapilla — flashfried puffs withcinnamon sugar

and a tequila-pineapple sauce.

Spring 201330


them on a menu and how ‘weird’ that was forsome people.” But not for anyone who hadever lived near the Baja Peninsula. “I thinkeveryone who was born and raised in SanDiego came to Baja in those first two weeks;they were like, ‘Oh my god, fish tacos.’”

It was while traveling the Baja coast in theearly 2000s researching that concept that hefirst discovered the Mexican street food he’snow featuring at Manny & Merle. The belovedfish taco is on the menu, the cod coated in abatter made with Pabst Blue Ribbon.

Other favorites so far, Tolle said, are theMachaca taco, made with braised beef brisket,caramelized onions and peppers, cilantro andqueso fresco, and the chorizo and rock shrimptorta (sandwich). The menu has already beentweaked a bit, Tolle said, to add two desserts(a Bourbon flan and sopapillas) and a couplemore sandwiches, including one made withpork belly.

“But overall, we’ve gotten really goodfeed back on the food,” she said.

“Louisville is a great incubator” for newdining ideas, Palombino said. Louisvillians seemmore open to trying new things, or to trying alocal version of something they’ve sampledelsewhere. “We aren’t inventing things; we arebringing things that fill a niche. Louisville hasembraced everything we’ve done.” F&D


IIn a non-descript business park in South Louisville, among

loading docks and plain-faced offices, a Nova Scotia company isbusy handling a treasure among ocean seafood — live, hard-shelled lobster harvested from the cold Atlantic waters ofCanada’s maritime provinces.

Clearwater Seafood set up operations here when UPSestablished its air freight operations in 1999. The company builthuge, custom holding tanks that replicate ocean conditions and,unobserved and unknown to most passing motorists, ship morethan half a million pounds each year of the tasty crustaceansacross North America.

When the doors swing open to unload the weekly tractortrailer delivering ten to twenty thousand pounds, the distinct saltysmell of a northern harborwharf comes rolling out. Ifyou closed your eyes, youcould picture seaweed-covered pilings at low tideand gulls circling overheadto observe the action.

A forklift starts to un -load large plastic cratesmarked with abbre viationsof the port of origin anda number showing theminimum weight of eachtreasured crustacean inside— 11/2, 3, 6, 9. ClearwaterOperations Manager PaulValdez pulls open theclam shell top of a cratemarked “9” and inside are some of the darkest, biggest lobstersyou have ever seen, with claws larger than an outspread hand.

“Yeah, the claws are as large as a steak,”Valdez says as he hoiststhe strange-looking creature out. “This is about a 13-pounder.”

Its spread-eagle length stretches the length of his torso fromarmpits to waist.

“It takes about seven years for them to grow to a pound andthen they continue growing about a pound a year,” Valdez said.“After a while their bodies don’t get any larger but their clawskeep getting bigger.”

By Valdez’s estimate, this grand lobster has lived nearly 20 years,crawling the ocean bottoms off Canada’s Maritime Provinces —Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. And itseems unperturbed when returned to the bin with its mates.

Today, that lobster will fetch $14 or more per pound at retail,as much as a fine cut of beef. At high-end restaurants it will be aseafood lover’s delight, with white, sweetish meat that is only onepercent fat before sauces, baked or broiled toppings or meltedbutter and lemon are added.

From ignorance to blissWhat today is considered a delicacy of fine dining was to

early European colonists only fit as food for poor people andprisoners or use as a farm fertilizer. Lobster was held in generaldisrepute because of the mistaken belief that it was a bottom-feeding scavenger. So low was the opinion of its fitness as a properfood, that laws were passed to limit how many times a week

it could be served toprisoners, lest they besubjected to cruel andunusual punishment.

Tastes changed overtime and by the mid-1800sthe poor man’s dish hadbecome a pleasure of therich and, thanks to rail -roads and ice, was avail -able in most urban centers.Canning expanded thedemand, and distributionreached around the worldat a time when specimensbelow four pounds wereconsidered not wor thbothering with.

As a luxury food, lobster was not rationed during the war andremained in demand as an important source of protein. Whiledemand slacked after WWII, it rebounded and ultimately fisherieswere put under pressure and over-harvesting led to fallingproduction before more stringent management practices targetinga sustainable yield were adopted.

Clearwater got its start in the turbulent economy of the mid-1970s when OPEC price increases and inflation pressured manysmall businesses. Amid distress, Clearwater found opportunity anda mantra: “Premium, Wild, Sustainable.”

“With a pick-up truck and an optimistic vision, brothers-in-lawColin MacDonald and John Risley saw an opportunity and focusedon becoming lobster distributors after they opened a small retailshop in Bedford [Novia Scotia],” said Catherine Boyd, Clearwater’s

about food from the earth BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

from ClearwaterOutpost of the Atlantic Maritimesthrives in Louisville

the Seafood


EARTH

32-35_From the Earth_spr13_Copy of profile_sTEFAN_fall05.qxd 1/30/13 12:29 PM Page 32

Clearwater Operations Manager, Paul Valdez, wrangles lobsters.


director of sustainability and public relations.“They started to integrate all aspects of thebusi ness ‘from trap to table,’ acquiring fishingquotas, vessels and processing and distri bu -tion facilities. They wanted to ensure sus tain - ability and the highest quality, and con stantinnovation to achieve these goals has beena hallmark of Clearwater’s history.”

As smart entrepreneurs, Risley andMacDonald (who is still chairman of thecompany) succeeded at their goal ofver tical integration and are the largestfisheries quota holder in Canada. They alsoimplemented modern technologies likebottom mapping and GPS technology toreduce fuel costs and areengaged in a 10-year jointresearch project with theCanadian Depar tment ofFisheries and Oceans onsustainability issues.

As a testament to itsfocus i s the fact thatClearwater has become thefirst har vester and dis tri -butor in the world to qualifyfor Mar ine StewardshipCouncil (MSC) certification— considered the goldstandard for fisheries sus - tain ability — on all of itscore species: sea scallops,lobster, shrimp, Arctic surfclam and Canadian snowcrab.

Staying aliveOne-half of the facility

Paul Valdez manages consistsof two huge tanks, roughly30' x 60' each holding about70,000 gallons, across whichropes stretch holding large,trunk-like bins full of theweight-graded crustaceans.Near the loading dock thereis a nearly twenty-foot-tall row of four-foot-square rectangular towers that have ashower of water falling onto them. In acorner there is a large tank, like a mash tunat a distillery, where 4,500 gallons of saltwater can be mixed at a time for this one-of-a-kind marine facility. The constant soundof running water, aeration bubbling out of thetanks, and the hum of biofilters, skimmers,and chilling equipment fills the air.

“The rectangular towers areClearwater’s innovation, the ‘DrylandPound,’ ” Valdez said. “They are stackedstorage trays, like large par ts bins you’dsee at Lowe’s, designed to keep indi -vidual lobsters separated and mimic thespace and structure of an underwaterrocky crevice.”

“We monitor the water pouringthrough them for temperature, oxygencontent, pH and salinity, all of it replicatingwinter conditions on the bottom of theAtlantic,” Valdez continued. “By keepingthem at 38 degrees from harvest todelivery, they’re slowed down and stay

healthy and fresh, maintaining the bestmeat condition.”

The other side of the space isdedicated to packing and shipping, wheresmall mountains of foam containers andcartons get marshaled into a single packingline before being shipped to fine restau -rants and individuals all over the States.

“When we set this up in 1999, wethought it would be just to service Internet

orders,” Valdez said. “But restaurant salesjust took off and now account for seventy-five percent of our business. We also supplydistributors and retail outlets and do asurprising walk-in retail business.”

And that is perhaps the most sur -prising news of all — that so many localshave discovered the unprepossessing,all-but-invisible source of super-fresh,attractively-priced lobsters here in themiddle of the country. Louisville’s air cargohub makes it a crossroads of supremelyfresh and sometimes exotic foodstuffs,and that’s why Clearwater built its trans -shipment facility here. It’s nice to know that

Clearwater will let you search it out andbuy its treasures at near wholesale prices($9.99/lb. for select, $6.99 for culls) — ifyou can find it. F&D

TIP: Now that you know where to scoretop-notch lobster, want to know how tocook it? Check out our Easy Entertainingcolumn (see page 38) for great lobsterrecipes and cooking tips.

Clearwater Seafood | 3904 Produce Rd., #103 | (502) 966-3100 | www.clearwater.ca

One of the two massive holding tanks at Clearwater.



s 2012 came to a close, the Brewers Association,America’s non-profit trade association for smalland independent craft brewers, abruptly seizedthe rhetorical initiative by challenging multi -

national brewing firms to be truthful about who brewswhich beers, and where.


Localism, meet craft beerYou two have very much in common,

so get acquainted. In 2013, I believe basicconsumer information about craft beer’sor igins increasingly wil l be viewed asessential in calculating the full value of one’sbeverage purchase, in the same way that atomato in the farmer’s market ideally shouldspring from the seller’s dirt, and not a green -house in a neighboring state. Can there everbe too much information? I don’t think so.Let’s look at five other matters of potentialrelevance during the coming year of beer.

Hemispheric hopsMotueka, Southern Cross, Galaxy,

Pacific Gem and Nelson Sauvin.They’re not folk bands formed in the

wake of Mumford & Sons’ global success.

Rather, they’re red hot hops from Australiaand New Zealand, and owing to scarcity,they’re making “Southern Hemisphere”watch words for exclusivity. Flavors andaromas are often tropical, with passionfruit, gooseberry, peach, lemon and limepopping up in savory descriptions.

In 2013, proven brands include SchlaflyTasmanian IPA, Anchorage Brewing GalaxyWhite and Sierra Nevada Southern Hemi -sphere Harvest Ale. There’ll be others.

Blurring the linesLast summer I visited New Day

Meadery’s tap room, situated on FountainSquare in a revitalizing Indianapolis neigh -bor hood just southeast of the city centerthat also is home to Fountain SquareBrewing Company.

the trubthe tale ofSaddle up

and Ride!

1529 Bardstown Roadwww.OldTownWine.com

502.451.8591

1529 Bardstown Roadwww.OldTownWine.com

502.451.8591

Prepare for Derby with the

class of a thoroughbred.

Open 7 Days a Week in

Louisville’s Historic Highlands.

Our knowledgeable staff

will guide you through our

extensive wine selection

and more than 40 bourbon

and whiskey distilleries

or explore online at:

www.KyBourbon.net

Our prognosticator picks sixcraft beer trends for 2013

“When someone is drinking a Blue Moon Belgian WheatBeer, they often believe that it’s from a craft brewer, sincethere is no clear indication that it’s made by SABMiller.The same goes for Shock Top, a brand that is 100 percentowned by Anheuser-Bush InBev. The large, multinationalbrewers appear to be deliberately attempting to blur thelines between their crafty, craft-like beers and true craftbeers from today’s small and independent brewers.”

liquids hip hops BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Brewers Association

A

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Mead is a beverage fermented fromhoney, and it predates beer in humanity’sannals. The use of fruit, herbs and spices toflavor mead is a longstanding custom, butNew Day’s Brett Canaday likes to take theprocess a step further by consulting the aleplaybook for ideas.

Hence, Snap Dragon: Mead infused withapricots, spiced with orange peel and co ri -an der, and hopped with Hallertauer. If thealcohol base were fermented from grainand not honey, you’d know this as Belgian-style Witbier. The flavor is very similar.

Snap Dragon points to increasing fer -ment able cross-pollination. Most states havediffering regulatory regimes for beer andwine production, with both mead and cider(fermented fruit juice, usually apple) beinggoverned as wine. Whereas lighter ale ofmild character might be hopped with NelsonSauvin and resemble Sauvignon Blanc, meadcan be spiced to approximate Pale Ale witha twist.

Pucker upIn beer, sourness once was a cue to

aim for the spittoon, but nowadays inten -tionally soured ales surpass all previousnorms in terms of acceptance. Americancraft brewers are emulating and modifyingBelgian-style sours, from the vinegarysourness of a barrel-aged Rodenbach tothe funky wildness of traditional Lambic,and conjuring their own variants.

Regionally, Upland Brewing Company(Bloomington, Indiana) has honed its sourprogram to an award-winning edge, andjust a bit further north, Michigan’s JollyPumpkin brews nothing but sour alesin a variety of interpretations. If you’re atart tout, do your due diligence, and buybottles whenever they’re available becausedemand outstrips supply.

Expanding collaborationsEach year, numerous craft brewers

work with, not against, each other toformulate collaboration beer s. Theycreatively combine ideas, ingredients andmethods and share skill, wisdom andexperience. Recently, the ar t of the col -labo ration gradually has star ted reachingbeyond the brew kettle into the kitchenand beyond, as with Louisville’s quirkyAgainst the Grain Brewer y and itsAtG/Chef Collaboration series.

Working with head brewer Jerr y

Gnagy, a chosen Louisville chef is asked toin cor porate a “signature flavor” into thecol labo rative beer, suggest a type of beerdesigned to pair well with cuisine at thechef ’s res tau rant, aim toward creating abeer that he or she would like to drinkwith food, or combine all three of thesecriteria into one tasty mug. To date, theresults have been impeccably eclectic:

• Bay and Pepper Your Bretts, with ChefJosh Lehman (Holy Grale), a Belgian-style “wild” Saison spiced with bayleaves and black peppercorns.

• Galangal Action, with Chef LevonWallace (Proof on Main), Thai-inspiredKölsch with galangal root, kaffir limeleaves and watermelon.

• BierePoix, with Chef Andy Myers(Anchorage Café), combining classicFrench mirepoix (onion, carrot andcelery aromatics) with thyme, corian -der, orange peel and sorghum in aBière de Garde.

Let’s get smallDepending on whom you ask, it’s

nano brewing, picobrewing or even“bucket” brewing, the latter referring toplastic vessels sometimes used by home -brewers. These terms of wee intentdescribe small-scale and fully legal com -mercial brewing, with batch sizes of threebarrels or less. With nanobrewing, we’vetraveled full circle in beer, back to usingcompact workplaces to brew beer, drinkbeer, and (maybe) sell what’s left.

Two nanobreweries are operating inSouthern Indiana (Basket Case in Jasper,and Hawcreek in Hope), and more areplanned. In Louisville, my old friend RickStidham and a few of his brewing buddiesare plotting a course for a nano to becalled Muse Brewing, scheduled to openin 2013. In an e-mail, Rick reveals theconceptual plan:

“We'll be brewing our favorites, butwe'll also be constantly experimenting.Recent test batches were a Bière de Gardebrewed with local butternut squash, and aSaison with hibiscus and chamomile. Wealso love the funky and the sour, and we'llbe gleefully inflicting as much of it onLouisville as we possibly can.”

Craft beer and localism: As collabora -tions go, it’s the main trend to watch as2013 unfolds. F&D


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A Lobstereasy entertaining lobster BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

38-43_Easy Entertain_spr13_Beer_John_V1_Fall05.qxd 1/30/13 12:32 PM Page 38

r Feast

As anyone who has seen Woody Allen’s “Annie Hall” knows, cooking

whole live lobsters can be intimidating. After all — they’re alive!

But we’ve taken the fear out of the process by providing easy steps

to properly cook lobsters, for the reward is well worth the effort.


ot only is lobster delicious eaten whole, its rich meatis luxurious in a variety of dishes including appetizers,soups, entrées and sides as well. We’ve includedseveral of our favorite lobster recipes to enjoy as a

full lobster-feast meal or as an accom pani ment to other dishes. For a wine pairing, we suggest a chardonnay to com pli ment

the flavor and not over power the lobster. Sonoma-CutrerSonoma Coast Chardonnay fits that bill perfectly. For dessert, doas they do in the northeast: Enjoy fresh blackberries with adollop of whipped cream — the perfect ending to a decadentlobster-filled dinner.

Having the ability to buy top-quality lobster at a very goodprice is one amazing benefit of living in Louisville. ClearwaterSeafood is truly a hidden gem in our city. Read more about themin our “From the Earth” feature by Greg Gapsis (page 32) tolearn how Louisville became the major trans-shipment point forEast Coast lobsters.

Traditional Boiled LobsterTo get the skinny on how to manage cooking one

of those squirming green arthropods, we went to thesource — Clearwater Seafood, whose Produce Roadoperation keeps them squirming until they are readyfor our tables. Here is their advice on how to easily cooka whole lobster.

Bring at least a half-gallon of water per poundof lobster to a rolling boil in a very large pot — ifit is a 2-pounder, use a gallon of water.

Add in four tablespoons of sea salt per half-gallon of water — that’s a half-cup for a 2-pounder.

Carefully drop the lobsters, one at a time,head first into the water. Return the water to a boil,and then start timing: 1 lb. = 12-15 min1.5 lbs. = 15-20 min2-3 lbs. = 20-25 min

Determining fully cooked Lobsters:l Lobsters will turn their characteristic bright

red color well before the meat is thoroughlycooked inside.

l Tug on an antennae or pull off one of the smallwalking legs. They both will come off easilywhen the lobster is done.

l The meat inside will be firm, white and opaque. l The tomalley, which fills much of the body cavity,

will be green. l The roe in female lobsters will be bright red

and firm. If it is a dark greenish black, with an oilytar-like consistency, the lobster is undercooked.

l The internal temperature will be 180 degrees. l If the lobsters will not be eaten right away, they

must be cooled quickly in ice water. Drain thechilled lobsters, cover and keep refrigerated. Youcan keep cooked lobsters in your refrigeratorfor one or two days.

Lobster Primer

Lobster Lingo:Culls: lobsters missing a claw

Chickens: about 1 pound

Quarters: about 11/4 pounds

Selects: 11/2 to 21/2 pounds

Jumbos: over 21/2 pounds

Lobster Equivalents & Measures:1 pound cooked = about 2 cups

chopped chunks

1 tail (8-ounce) = 1 serving or 4 ouncescooked meat

1 whole lobster = 1 serving or 4 ounces(1- to 11/2-pound) cooked meat

N



For the lobster tails:

3 lobster tails6 tablespoons unsalted

butter, softened6 skewers

Lobster Cocktail(SERVES 6)

1 pound of fresh-picked cookedlobster meat cut into bite-size piecesChopped lettuceRemouladeLemon wedges for garnish

Divide the chopped lettuce among sixchilled martini glasses. Top each with equalportions of fresh lobster meat and spoon adollop of remoulade sauce on top. Garnishwith lemon wedge.

For the Champagne dipping sauce:

1 bottle Korbel Brut Champagne1 cup fresh parsley, chopped1 bunch thyme, chopped1 bay leaf4 shallots, chopped

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cutinto 12 piecesSaltPepper (continued)

Grilled Lobster Tails with Champagne Dipping Sauce (SERVES 6)



For the bisque:1 cup heavy cream

For the lobster meat:2 tablespoons butter 3 cooked lobsters, meat cut bite-sized,

claws reserved for garnish1 bunch fresh chives, for garnish

Broth: In a large pot, over medium heat, com -bine the butter and olive oil. Add the garlic,carrots, celery, onions, salt, pepper and sautéfor 10 minutes. Deglaze the pan with theBourbon. Add the chardonnay and let reducefor 1 to 2 minutes. Add the vege table stock,tomato paste, peppercorns, lobster car casses,bay leaves, parsley and thyme. Add enoughwater to just cover the shells. Turn the heatdown to medium-low and simmer, partiallycovered, for one hour.

Roux: In a small saucepan, over medium heat,add the butter and flour and cook, whiskingcontinuously until amber in color, 6 to 7minutes. Remove from heat.

Bisque: Using a very fine strainer, strain thelobster broth into a medium pot. Add theroux and heavy cream and stir to combine.Let reduce on medium-low heat until thick,another 15 to 20 minutes.

Lobster meat: In a medium-size pan, overmedium-high heat, melt the butter. Add thelobster meat and sauté until heated through,1 to 2 minutes.

To serve: Divide the lobster meat among sixbowls, placing it in the center. Ladle thebisque around the meat and top with a clawand chives.

Lobster Tails: Heat the grill to medium-high heat. Cut the lobster tails in halflengthwise. Remove the meat from thetail shell and rub the inside of eachshell with one tablespoon of the butter.Replace the meat and skewer each tailto keep the meat in place and to stopit from curling while cooking. Place thetail, shell side down, on the grill andcook without flipping the tail, until themeat is opaque, about 8 to 12 minutes.

Dipping sauce: Pour the Champagneinto a medium-size saucepan. Add theparsley, thyme, bay leaf and shallots.Cook over medium heat until just onecup of the liquid remains, about 25minutes.

Strain the liquid and discard theherbs. Slowly whisk in the butter, onetablespoon at a time, over low heat.When all the butter has been incor -porated, season with salt and pepperto taste. Keep the mixture warm whilegrilling the lobsters then divide intoindividual bowls for dipping.

Lobster Bisque(SERVES 6)

For the lobster broth:1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, chopped2 carrots, scraped and roughly

chopped 2 celery ribs, roughly chopped 1 red onion, peeled and roughly

chopped 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

Fresh cracked black pepper 1 ounce Bourbon1 cup chardonnay6 cups vegetable stock

1/3 cup tomato paste 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns 3 cooked lobster carcasses,

roughly chopped 3 bay leaves 1 cup fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley,

roughly chopped1 sprig fresh thyme

For the roux:8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter

1/2 cup flour

Grilled Lobster Tails withChampagne Dipping Sauce(continued)



or 20 minutes, until the dish is bubbly and browning on top. Remove from the oven, drizzle withthe truffle oil, and sprinkle with chopped chives as garnish.

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE NOTES:l When using fresh lobster, you can boil it a day ahead of time. For this recipe you will need

two lobsters. You can add the tail meat, as well as the knuckle meat, into the pasta, or you canfreeze it for later use.

l We chose to use shell-shaped pasta instead of the traditional penne because shells comefrom the sea like lobsters — and they hold the cheese sauce better. F&D

Avalon’s TruffleLobster Mac ‘n’Cheese(SERVES 8 AS A SIDE DISH OR 4 AS AMAIN COURSE)

Note: Avalon is gone now, but thememory of its rich lobster mac ‘n’cheese lingers. F&D liked the dish somuch that we featured it back inthe Spring 2006 issue (availableonline at www.foodanddine.com).

Salt1 pound penne pasta2 tablespoons vegetable oil3 tablespoons butter5 tablespoons all-purpose flour3 cups whole milk

3/4 cup heavy cream2 cups grated white Cheddar

Black pepperCayenne

1/2 pound lobster claw meat1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese2 tablespoons truffle oil3 tablespoons chopped chives

Bring one gallon of water to aboil with ample salt to make thewater “taste like the sea,” as Italianssay. Boil the pasta until it’s al dente,taking care not to overcook as itwill cook further in the dish.

Drain and rinse with coolwater to stop it cooking; drizzlewith a little vegetable oil and toss,to keep the pasta from stickingtogether.

Melt the butter in a two-quartsaucepan over medium heat, andwhisk in the flour. Cook for oneminute, then slowly pour in themilk while stirring constantly witha wire whisk. Stir vigorously toensure that there are no lumps.Bring to a simmer, then, once themilk has thickened somewhat,remove the pan from heat and addthe heavy cream and Cheddarcheese. Mix well. Season to tastewith salt, pepper and cayenne.

Toss the cooked pasta, cheesesauce and lobster meat togetherand place in a heavy oven-proofcasserole dish. Sprinkle with thegrated Parmesan cheese and bakeuncovered at 350 degrees for 15


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people and places profiles BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

(above) Chef/Owner Ryan Rogers (masked), and GMChip Hartley. (right) Half rack of baby back ribs.

The masked man behind Feast BBQ and hismodern take on the world’s oldest cuisine

It may be that Louisville, Kentucky’s finest barbecue is in New Albany, Indiana. That is, if we can classify theofferings at Feast BBQ as such. Purists might object to Chef Ryan Rogers’ approach to the science of smoke. With histalk of salinity points and cutting edge electronics, the founder of this New Albany barbecue joint may as well bewearing a lab coat. Trained at the French Culinary Institute, Rogers has a fondness for kitchen gadgets and relishes thechance to fly in the face of conventional wisdom.

Take, for instance, the way he eschews the normally coveted “smoke ring” found in classic, slow-and-low barbecue.Despite making for an appealing presentation, Rogers says the much-ballyhooed pink circle of nitrosyl hemochrometends to occur in drier meat, creating a dish that is, well, dry. Instead, Rogers employs modern, unconventional meansin his quest for consistently cooked, drippingly moist meats that he and his team at Feast brine for days.

This tender, juicy product finds its way into a pleasing array of packaging, from tacos with pickled onions, cabbageand Cotija cheese (starting at $3.50), to sliders ($5 and up). Half or full pound sandwiches ($6.50 to $10.50) are alsoavailable. These and other plates can be rounded out with an assortment of crafty, not overly fussy sides and sweetsthat hint at the Chef ’s culinary school background and stint in one legendary New York kitchen.

Rogers’ preference for computerized smokers may leave some traditionalists looking askance. But the narcoticeffect brought on by Feast’s buttery brioche, vinegar slaw and a brisket that spends seven days in the making will havemost turning a blind eye to all the heresy here — like the kitchen’s partiality for thermal immersion circulators and thepresence of tofu in what is otherwise a shrine to animal protein. I


right on’cue

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FEAST BBQ116 W. Main St., New Albany IN (812) 920-0454


This unlikely ingredient has received ravesfrom critics, in part because the cooks here treattheir soy protein with the same reverence they doeverything else: slowly smoking it until a snappyskin forms, then dolling it up in a suit of slider, tacoor sandwich fixings.

“I’m not trying to kick dir t on traditionaltechniques. I’ve done them and they produce anice product. But they can also suck — from abusiness point of view,” says Rogers.

Rogers had opportunities to test his theorieswhile building a resume around Louisville. AtZanzabar, he’d often feed a steady diet of split oaklogs into the standard-style barrel smoker there,struggling mightily to balance his temperatures.On cold nights, the Chef might poke at the heatuntil 3 in the morning, unable to walk away fromthe small fortune in butt and brisket roasting atits excruciating pace. All this effort, he says,sometimes produced overwhelmingly smoky,unbalanced meat — not to mention a valuablelearning experience.

You won’t be seeing a full-time pit masterat Feast any time soon. In place of this, Rogersreveals the digital equivalent — a CookshackSmartSmoker SM260 — along with his own head-spinning system of weights and measures thatdetermine how much brine, what degree ofsmoke and the ideal temperature settings.

That last element is one that can spike orsink well beyond the 200 to 250 degree standardfound in classic ‘cue textbooks. These heatvariations are simplified through the circuitry of astainless steel, six-foot-tall BBQ robot, which cancook 40 chickens through a fusion of prehistorictechnique and smar t phone-era technology.Thermostatic controls and an electric heater that

Now housed in the historicbuilding that was known as

the Sunny Side Saloon when itoriginally opened in 1882,

Feast’s interior boasts muchhistory and now lays claim

to the largest Bourboncollection in Indiana.



smokes small wood chips allow the SmartSmoker tosafely keep things smoldering during off-hours.

As for how the meat is treated once leaving thesmoker, well, that gets a little cloudy.

“Other things happen, but I refuse to talk aboutthem,” says Rogers.

Asked if the food here is, technically, still barbe -cue, the Chef responds, “At the end of the day, if youget a better product, then I don’t think you can beupset about the method getting there.”

Smoke and mirrorsThe science is all well and good, but what we

really want to know is, what’s with the mask? During the Food & Dining photo shoot that pro -

duced the adjoining images, Rogers appeared as thoughhe was on his way to a stagecoach robbery, agreeingto be photographed only after he knotted a bandanaaround his face. We were a bit mystified why some -one who possesses the looks of a Bret Easton Ellischaracter would want to hide behind a hanky? Per -haps it’s because Rogers is one-part American Psycho.

“I want to put across the message that I’msomewhat out of my mind,” says the former actingstudent. “I think photos should tell a story. I don’twant to be the chef in the chef ’s coat holding a dish.I want people to remember it, to think either, A: ‘I’mgoing to go check out this guy’s restaurant, he’s clearlya nut case,’ or B: ‘I should not check out this guy’srestaurant, he’s clearly a nut case.’”

To that end, Rogers stayed up for days in advance

A pair of Feast’s sandwiches — pulled pork(above, right) and the tofu sandwich (opposite,

bottom). The Maple Bourbon Sour made withIndiana maple syrup, lemon juice and one ofthe 105 available Bourbons (below, center).


of a Courier-Journal photo shoot in order to get into the char -acter of a culinary madman. A blindfolded Rogers also recentlyappeared on the cover of a LEO Weekly Dining Guide, and in anearlier article on his time at the Anchorage Café, Rogers becamecomfortable with the camera only after suspending a pig’s headbetween himself and the shooter.

Pressed further on his apparent camera-shyness, Rogersstresses — as he did repeatedly during our interview — that FeastBBQ is not about him. It’s about the food and the trusted teamthat help execute it.

He also expresses a pointed distaste for the celebrity chef thing.“I don’t like the notion of celebrity chef at all. And I’m not saying

anything against anybody who promotes themselves as such. Just forme, personally, I don’t want to be the focus of this restaurant.”

This position is interesting, noting the four months Rogersspent “getting his ass handed to him” in what was probably thehottest restaurant in the country at the time, one helmed by achef who has truly become a household name. Listening to Rogersrecount the gory details of that culinary boot camp, it doesn’t takea huge leap to understand his sometimes arms-length relationshipwith media, as well as how he became the restaurateur he is today.

Unlucky peachThe salty air coming off of the Atlantic Ocean was likely Ryan

Rogers’ first sign that he’d fallen asleep on the subway again. Whenhis eyes cracked open it was 5 a.m. on Coney Island and theexhausted culinary student began the trek back inland. Uponreaching his apartment, he prepared for what would surely beanother non-stop day, pursuing a kitchen career in New York City.

It was 2009, with graduation nearing. After classes at theFrench Culinary Institute, Rogers made the mile-plus sprint to hisjob at Momofuku. Still recovering from his last shift, he chuggedtwo Monsters before reaching the buzzy noodle bar that washungrily slurping up renown since its 2004 opening. Chef DavidChang was becoming a national story and Rogers was content togrind away, without salary, for most of his tenure with the GQ Chefof the Year.

Chang would go on to open 15 eateries, receive two Michelinstars, portray himself on TV shows, like the food-obsessed, HBOseries “Treme,” write cookbooks and publish the magazine LuckyPeach. But working for the bun king was no cakewalk.

That night, Kevin Pemoulie was running the show in place ofthe increasingly sought after Chang. Pemoulie was “just mean,” ayes chef / no chef, Gordon Ramsey-type of monolith who seemedto have it in for Rogers. Unfortunately, not long into Rogers’ shiftat the busy bun station, the oven door broke.

“I don’t know who kicked his dog that morning, but (Pemoulie)just unleashed this tirade,” says Rogers. “A solid 20 minutes withevery curse word in the book, and a packed dining room!”

In this classic kitchen nightmare, Pemoulie condemned Rogersto a night of mise-en-place in the basement, raging at him, tellinghim, in not very delicate language, not to show his face for the restof the service, to not even come upstairs for the rest of the night.

This all within sight of what must have felt like every foodiein New York. Rogers’ night out of Pemoulie’s glare didn’t improve.He perhaps tried to accomplish too much too quickly, moving ahotel tray stacked to the ceiling with house-made, soft-serve icecream base. Rogers flung the freezer open, hastily scooped up his

tower of dessert and attempted to slide into the walk-in beforethe door shut. He didn’t make it; 44 quarts of homemade icecream base were ruined when their plastic, Lexan containerssmashed to the ground.

Of course, when he looked up, he found Pemoulie staringover the disaster with a look of profound disgust and a fresh litanyof F-bombs on the ready.

Somehow, Rogers managed to turn things around, actuallygetting offered a full-time gig by Pemoulie later that week. He wenton to nail his cooking final and it seemed that things were lookingup. However, while proudly donning his chef whites on the way tograduation commencement, Rogers was halted by his ringing cellphone, just steps from the door.

It was Pemoulie. The boss heard Rogers and a date had visitedthe restaurant the night before to celebrate the end of culinaryschool. After asking a couple of questions about their evening,Pemoulie abruptly fired Rogers. Stunned, the young chef thenproceeded into the ceremony, suffering from “a minor form ofpost traumatic stress.”

(right) After five hours in the smoker, Feast’sfried chicken is flash-fried. (above)Tater totscovered with creamy slaw, BBQ sauce andgreen onions. (top)Taco of brisket, cabbage,Cotija cheese, pickled onion and cilantro.



Meanwhile, happy classmates moved to congratulate Rogerson his new post at Momofuku, saying they were happy they’dnow have time to visit him at the hotspot.

“Yep, yep. I’ll see you there,” the shell-shocked Rogers battedback, unsure whether he was being replaced by the injured chefhe’d filled in for or had offended some unwritten policy at therestaurant or what.

“They call me Tastebuds.” Though it would leave an indelible impression, Rogers has

recovered well from that rollercoaster week, since trading thehigh-traffic, high-profile world of the New York food scene forNew Albany’s Main Street. He seems at home among the 36,000who inhabit this city and although he’s chosen a most basic formatto showcase his talent, there remains a controlled element of flashand whimsy that Chang and Pemoulie were unable to knock outof him.

Rogers says he learned more from that kitchen experiencethan any culinary class. He believes the genius of David Chang is

how he created a one-of-a-kind brand without trying to reinventthe wheel. He notes the five other noodle bars within blocks ofMomofuku that few can name.

This is something Rogers clear ly aspires to, although itwould be a fib to say the contrarian isn’t guilty of a little wheel

reinvention. See Feasts’ riff on Tater Tots ($5) for an example ofthis.

These nuggets of deep-fried potato arrive in igloo-sizedportions and are dusted with green onions, creamy slaw and BBQsauce. The salty crunch of the tots may evoke your school days,but the crispness of the cabbage and gently sweet sauce formsomething elevated. Adding any of Feast’s smoked meats ($2 or$3) promotes these Tots from side dish to meal.

Further down the menu, there’s Rev. Rogers White ChocolateBread Pudding ($7). Asked if the Reverend was real, the chefreveals that the recipe was presented to him by his grandfather, aminister who, during time away from the flock, had cooked 10,000sheet pans of the stuff at his son’s Gallatin, TN restaurant.

Rogers was honored and, of course, couldn’t leave wellenough alone. Because the dense pudding can take up to 30minutes to warm in the oven, Rogers elected instead to deep fryit, cut it into sticks, roll those in sugar Asian-style and use the whitechocolate as a dipping sauce.

“Well, my grandfather comes in about a month after we

open. Of course, he wants his namesake bread pudding, and I thinkit really offended him,” says Rogers.

By now, it comes as no surprise that Rogers manages to pissoff even his own family members with all this recipe tinkering. It’salso no surprise that it is entirely worth it. F&D




African............................76Asian/Chinese ................76Asian/Filipino..................77Asian/Japanese ..............77Asian/Korean..................78Asian/Mongolian ............78Asian/Thai ......................78Asian/Vietnamese...........79Bar & Grill ......................74Barbecue ........................73Bistro/Contemporary. .....60Cafés .............................62

Cafeterias .......................69Cajun/Creole...................82Caribbean/Cuban............82Casual Dining .................65Coffee/Tea House ...........84Desserts/Bakery .............85Entertainment Dining......69European/Bosnian ..........79European/French ............79European/German ..........80European/Irish................80European/Italian .............80European/Spanish ..........80

Fine Dining .....................56Home Style/Southern .....68Indian .............................81Mexican..........................82Microbreweries ..............76Middle Eastern ...............81Pizza...............................70Sandwich/Deli ................72Seafood..........................64Southwest/Tex Mex ........84Steakhouse ....................65Upscale Casual...............56

Bela’s Café 76 African 13Bendoya Sushi Bar 77 Asian/Japanese 1Big Al’s Beeritaville 74 Bar & Grill 2Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Home Style/Southern 1The Bistro 69 Cafeterias 3Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2Bistro 301 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1Bistro 42 80 European/Italian 10Bistro Le Relais 79 European/French 4BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 66 Casual Dining 5Blackstone Grille 57 Upscale Casual 10The Blind Pig 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1Blue Dog Bakery 63 Cafés 2Blue Horse Café 66 Casual Dining 13Bluegrass BBQ 73 Barbecue 3Bluegrass Brewing Co. 76 Microbreweries 1, 3Bluegrass Burgers 66 Casual Dining 3Bluegrass Café 63 Cafés 2Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 72 Sandwich/Deli 16Bombay Grill 81 Indian 5Bonefish Grill 64 Seafood 5Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12Boombozz Famous Pizza 70 Pizza 3Boombozz Pizza Bistro 70 Pizza 6Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 70 Pizza 2, 5Boomer’s Café 63 Cafés 1Bootleg Barbecue Co. 73 Barbecue 11, 13Borromeo’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13Bosna-Mak 79 European/Bosnian 4Bourbons Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza 73 Barbecue 5Bravo! 57 Upscale Casual 3Breadworks 85 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7The Brewery 74 Bar & Grill 2Brian’s Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 66 Casual Dining 6Bristol Bar & Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16Brix Wine Bar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 8Brownie’s Grille & Bar 74 Bar & Grill 5Bruegger’s Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 3Buca Di Beppo 80 European/Italian 6Buck’s 56 Fine Dining 13Buckhead Mountain Grill 66 Casual Dining 4, 16Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 74 Bar & Grill 12Buffalo Wild Wings 74 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15Bungalow Joe’s 74 Bar & Grill 11Bunz Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2Burger Boy 72 Sandwich/Deli 13Burning Bush Grille 81 Middle Eastern 10Butcher’s Best 72 Sandwich/Deli 10Butterfly Garden Café 63 Cafés 2Café 360 81 Middle Eastern 2Café Fraiche 63 Cafés 7Café Lou Lou 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3Café Magnolia 66 Casual Dining 1Café Mimosa 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2

211 Clover Lane 56 Fine Dining 330 Red Sports Saloon 74 Bar & Grill 1160 West Bistro 56 Upscale Casual 3610 Magnolia 56 Fine Dining 13A Nice Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 14, 16A Taste of China 76 Asian/Chinese 1A.P. Crafters Kitchen & Bar 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5Achille’s Pizza 70 Pizza 16Addis Grill 76 African 1Adobo Mexican Restaurant 82 Mexican 11Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 85 Desserts/Bakery 16Adrienne’s Italian 80 European/Italian 16Against The Grain Brewery 76 Microbreweries 1Al Nuur 76 African 13Al Watan 81 Middle Eastern 4Alley Cat Café 62 Cafés 5Amici 80 European/Italian 13Anchorage Café 62 Cafés 5Angilo’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13Angio’s Restaurant 70 Pizza 4Ann’s by the River 69 Cafeterias 16Annie Cafe 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13Annie May’s Sweets Café 85 Desserts/Bakery 3Annie’s Pizza 70 Pizza 1, 12Another Place 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Anselmo’s Italian Bistro 80 European/Italian 2Apocalypse Brew Works 76 Microbreweries 2Applebee’s 66 Casual Dining [6]Arata Sushi 77 Asian/Japanese 10Arni’s Pizza 70 Pizza 14Aroma Café 63 Cafés 14Asahi Japanese 77 Asian/Japanese 3Asian Buffet 76 Asian/Chinese 4, 14Asian Moon 76 Asian/Chinese 4, 6Asiatique 57 Upscale Casual 2Aspen Creek Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 11Atrium Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5August Moon 76 Asian/Chinese 2Austin’s 57 Upscale Casual 7BD’s Mongolian Grill 78 Asian/Mongolian 6B3Q BBQ 73 Barbecue 14Baby D’s Bagels & Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 2Backyard Burger 72 Sandwich/Deli 6The Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 4Bamboo House 76 Asian/Chinese 13Banh Mi Hero 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2Bank Street Brewhouse 76 Microbreweries 14Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Home Style/Southern 2The Bard’s Town 69 Entertainment Dining 2Basa Modern Vietnamese 57 Upscale Casual 2Baxter Station 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill 74 Bar & Grill 2Bazos Mexican Grill 82 Mexican 3, 6Bean Street Coffee Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 14Bearno’s Pizza 70 Pizza [12]Beef O’Brady’s 74 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 77 Asian/Japanese 14

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dining guide

Area Maps begin on page 86

AlphabeticalIndex

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWEDBY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINESTYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

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Eagle Lake & Restaurant 64 Seafood 12Earth Friends Café 64 Cafés 1, 14Eastern House 76 Asian/Chinese 12Eddie Merlot’s 65 Steakhouse 1Edesia Gardens 66 Casual Dining 6Eggroll Machine 76 Asian/Chinese 2Eiderdown 80 European/German 13Einstein Brothers Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 1El Burrito de Oro 82 Mexican 15El Caporal 82 Mexican 4, 6, 15El Mariachi 82 Mexican 5El Marlin Seafood 82 Mexican 6El Molcajete 82 Mexican 13El Mundo 82 Mexican 2El Nopal 82 Mexican [16]El Ranchero 82 Mexican 4El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 82 Caribbean/Cuban 13El Sombrero 82 Mexican 16El Tarasco 82 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13El Tenampa Bar & Grill 82 Caribbean/Cuban 12El Torazo 82 Mexican 6El Toro Cantina & Grill 82 Mexican 5Emperor of China 76 Asian/Chinese 7Empress of China 76 Asian/Chinese 4The English Grill 56 Fine Dining 1Equus 58 Upscale Casual 3Erika’s German Restaurant 80 European/German 6Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 1Ernesto’s 82 Mexican 6Exchange Pub + Kitchen 61 Bistro/Contemporary 14Expression Of You 84 Coffee/Tea House 2The Falafel House 81 Middle Eastern 2Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 73 Barbecue 6, 15Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 66 Casual Dining 13Fat Daddy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13Fat Jimmy’s 70 Pizza 5FeastBBQ 74 Barbecue 14The Feed Bag 72 Sandwich/Deli 3Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 82 Mexican 8, 11Fire Fresh Bar B Q 74 Barbecue 1, 12Firehouse Subs 72 Sandwich/Deli 5First Wok 76 Asian/Chinese 12The Fish House 64 Seafood 2, 5The Fishery 64 Seafood 3, 5The Fishery Station 64 Seafood 11Fish-Fry House 64 Seafood 2Five Guys Burgers & Fries 66 Casual Dining 8, 14Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 66 Casual Dining 13Flanagans Ale House 75 Bar & Grill 2Food 4 Ur Soul 68 Home Style/Southern 1Forty Acres & A Mule 68 Home Style/Southern 13Four King’s Café 75 Bar & Grill 4Four Pegs Beer Lounge 61 Bistro/Contemporary 13Franco’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 12Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 74 Barbecue 3Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 72 Sandwich/Deli 8Frolio’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13Frontier Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 12The Fudgery 85 Desserts/Bakery 1Fuji Asian Bistro 78 Asian/Japanese 12Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 78 Asian/Japanese 5, 8Funmi’s African Restaurant 76 African 4FX Pizza 70 Pizza 14Garage Bar 66 Casual Dining 1Gary’s On Spring 58 Upscale Casual 2Gasthaus 80 European/German 7Gavi’s Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1Gelato Gilberto 85 Desserts/Bakery 8Genghis Grill 78 Asian/Mongolian 8Gerstle’s Place 75 Bar & Grill 3Ghyslain 79 European/French 1, 8Gigi’s Cupcakes 85 Desserts/Bakery 6Golden Buddha 76 Asian/Chinese 13Golden Corral 68 Home Style/Southern4,13,15Golden Palace 76 Asian/Chinese 13Golden Star Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 13Golden Wall 76 Asian/Chinese 13Goose Creek Diner 66 Casual Dining 8Gordon Biersch Brewery 76 Microbreweries 1Grady’s Burgers & Wings 66 Casual Dining 13Granny’s Apron 68 Home Style/Southern 13Granville Inn 75 Bar & Grill 13Grape Leaf 81 Middle Eastern 2Great American Grill 75 Bar & Grill 13Great Harvest Bread Co. 85 Desserts/Bakery 5Great Life Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15Great Wall 76 Asian/Chinese 2Great Wok 77 Asian/Chinese 13Green Leaf Vegetarian 66 Casual Dining 13Green Room Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 6Guaca-Mole 82 Mexican 5Habana Blues Tapas 82 Caribbean/Cuban 14Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 2Hammerheads 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 78 Asian/Japanese 10Happy China 77 Asian/Chinese 6Hard Rock Café 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 74 Barbecue 16Harvest 58 Upscale Casual 1Havana Rumba 82 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5Hawksview Gallery 58 Upscale Casual 13Hazelwood Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 12Heart & Soy 78 Asian/Japanese 2Heine Brothers Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House [13]Heitzman Bakery & Deli 85 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5Henry’s Place 58 Upscale Casual 7Hibachi Sushi Buffet 77 Asian/Chinese 11Highland Coffee Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 2Highland Morning 64 Cafés 2

Café Montagu 63 Cafés 13Café Thuy Van 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13Caffe Classico 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2Cake Flour 85 Desserts/Bakery 1California Pizza Kitchen 70 Pizza 5Captain’s Quarters 66 Casual Dining 10Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 66 Casual Dining 13Carrabba’s Italian Grille 80 European/Italian 5Cast Iron Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 10, 16Cat Box Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Cattleman’s Roadhouse 65 Steakhouse 6, 13Caviar Japanese Restaurant 57 Upscale Casual 1Cellar Door Chocolates 85 Desserts/Bakery 1Champions Grill 66 Casual Dining 16Champions Sports Bar 74 Bar & Grill 1Champp’s Americana 74 Bar & Grill 3Charim Korean Restaurant 78 Asian/Korean 3Charlestown Pizza Co. 70 Pizza 16Charlestown Train Station 64 Seafood 16Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen 57 Upscale Casual 6Check’s Café 68 Home Style/Southern 1Cheddar Box Café 63 Cafés 3Cheddar’s Casual Café 66 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15Cheer King Star 76 Asian/Chinese 1The Cheesecake Factory 58 Upscale Casual 3Cheezy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 16Chef Maria’s Greek Deli 72 Cafés 3Chez Seneba African 76 African 13The Chicken House 68 Home Style/Southern 14Chicken King 68 Home Style/Southern 1Chili’s 66 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13China 1 76 Asian/Chinese 3China Buffet 76 Asian/Chinese 15China Café 76 Asian/Chinese 13China Castle 76 Asian/Chinese 12China Garden 76 Asian/Chinese 13China Inn 76 Asian/Chinese 13China King 76 Asian/Chinese 6China Taste 76 Asian/Chinese 16Chinese Chef 76 Asian/Chinese 13Chinese Express 76 Asian/Chinese 12Choi’s Asian Food Market 78 Asian/Japanese 5Chong Garden 76 Asian/Chinese 12Chopshop Salads 66 Casual Dining 1, 3Chopsticks 76 Asian/Chinese 1Chopsticks House 76 Asian/Chinese 1Chung King 76 Asian/Chinese 1Chuy’s 84 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15City Café 63 Cafés 1Clark’s Lyndon Village Pub 74 Bar & Grill 5Clarksville Seafood 64 Seafood 15Clifton’s Pizza 70 Pizza 2Clucker’s Wings 74 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16Coach Lamp 66 Casual Dining 1Coals Artisan Pizza 70 Pizza 3CoCo’s Chocolate Café 85 Desserts/Bakery 2Coffee Crossing 84 Coffee/Tea House 14Come Back Inn 80 European/Italian 1, 16The Comfy Cow 85 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13Copper Cupcake 85 Desserts/Bakery 8Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 56 Fine Dining 8Corner Café 58 Upscale Casual 5Cottage Café 68 Home Style/Southern 5Cottage Inn 68 Home Style/Southern 13Crave Café & Catering 63 Cafés 2Cravings a la Carte 69 Cafeterias 1Creekside Outpost & Café 63 Cafés 14Cricket’s Café 63 Cafés 15Crystal Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 1Cuban Flavor 82 Caribbean/Cuban 11Cubana Restaurant 82 Caribbean/Cuban 2Culver’s 66 Casual Dining 6Cumberland Brews 76 Microbreweries 2Cunningham’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 10The Cupcake Shoppe 85 Desserts/Bakery 3D’Nalley’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 1Dakshin Indian Restaurant 81 Indian 11DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 13Dancing Sushi 78 Asian/Japanese 8Danish Express Pastries 72 Sandwich/Deli 3Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 70 Pizza 13Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle 68 Home Style/Southern 5Day’s Espresso 84 Coffee/Tea House 2De La Torre’s 80 European/Spanish 2Decca 58 Upscale Casual 1Deckers Grilled Sandwiches 66 Casual Dining 6Del Frisco’s 65 Steakhouse 3Derby Café 63 Cafés 13Derby City BBQ 73 Barbecue 13Derby Dinner Playhouse 69 Entertainment Dining 16Desserts By Helen 85 Desserts/Bakery 2Devino’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Diamond Pub & Billiards 74 Bar & Grill 2, 3Difabio’s Casapela 80 European/Italian 2DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub 70 Pizza 3Dish On Market 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1Ditto’s Grill 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Doc Crow’s 58 Upscale Casual 1Dooley’s Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 7Double Dragon 76 Asian/Chinese 1, 2Double Dragon II 76 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13Double Dragon 9 76 Asian/Chinese 6DP UpDogs 72 Sandwich/Deli 14Dragon King’s Daughter 78 Asian/Japanese 2Drake’s 74 Bar & Grill 3, 8Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food 68 Home Style/Southern 13Dunkin’ Donuts 85 Desserts/Bakery 2DuValle Grub N Scrub 73 Barbecue 13

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Lotsa Pasta 72 Sandwich/Deli 3Louis Le Francais 79 European/French 14Louisville Pizza Co. 70 Pizza 6Louisville Tea Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 5Luigi’s 71 Pizza 1Ma Zerellas 71 Pizza 15Maa Sha Allah 76 African 4Mai’s Thai Restaurant 78 Asian/Thai 16Main Eatery 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Main Street Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Majid’s St. Matthews 62 Bistro/Contemporary 3Maker’s Mark Lounge 59 Upscale Casual 1Manhattan Grill 67 Casual Dining 1Manny & Merle 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1Mark’s Feed Store 74 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14Marketplace Restaurant 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1Marlyce’s Place 85 Desserts/Bakery 15Martini Italian Bistro 80 European/Italian 8Masa Japanese 78 Asian/Japanese 5Mayan Café 84 Mexican 1McAlister’s Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli [9]Mellow Mushroom 71 Pizza 3, 5The Melting Pot 59 Upscale Casual 6Meridian Café 64 Cafés 3Mexican Fiesta 84 Mexican 4Mexico Tipico 84 Mexican 12Mexico Viejo 84 Mexican 2Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 78 Asian/Japanese 3Mike & Matt’s 68 Home Style/Southern 16Mike Linnig’s 65 Seafood 12Mike’s Tavern 75 Bar & Grill 14Milkwood 56 Fine Dining 1Mimi’s Café 67 Casual Dining 5Ming’s Buffet 77 Asian/Chinese 2Mirage Mediterranean Grill 81 Middle Eastern 13Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 69 Home Style/Southern 1,2Mitchell’s Fish Market 65 Seafood 8Moe’s Southwest Grill 84 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15Mojito Tapas Restaurant 81 European/Spanish 7Molly Malone’s 80 European/Irish 2, 3Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 74 Barbecue 3The Monkey Wrench 67 Casual Dining 2More Shenanigan’s 80 European/Irish 4Morris Deli & Catering 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2Morton’s of Chicago 65 Steakhouse 1Mr. Gattis 71 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 1Mucho Queso Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 67 Casual Dining 2Mussel & Burger Bar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 6My Favorite Muffin 85 Desserts/Bakery 5My Old KY Dinner Train 69 Entertainment Dining 13NamNam Café 79 Asian/Vietnamese 3Nana’s Country Kitchen 69 Home Style/Southern 12Nancy’s Bagel Box 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 72 Sandwich/Deli 2Napa River Grill 59 Upscale Casual 5Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 67 Casual Dining 14New Albanian Brewing Co. 71 Pizza 14New Albany Roadhouse 67 Casual Dining 14New China 77 Asian/Chinese 5New Direction Bar & Grill 75 Bar & Grill 8Nonnie’s Kitchen 64 Cafés 5Nord’s Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 13North End Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2O’Charley’s 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15O’Dolly’s 69 Home Style/Southern 13O’Shea’s Irish Pub 80 European/Irish 2The Oakroom 56 Fine Dining 1Oasis Sushi & Soul 78 Asian/Japanese 13Oishii Sushi 78 Asian/Japanese 4Old 502 Winery 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 71 Pizza 6, 8Old Spaghetti Factory 80 European/Italian 1Old Stone Inn 59 Upscale Casual 5Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 74 Barbecue 11The Olive Garden 80 European/Italian 6,8,11,15Ollie’s Trolley 72 Sandwich/Deli 1Onion Restaurant & Tea House 77 Asian/Chinese 14Orange Clover Kitchen 64 Cafés 16Oriental House 77 Asian/Chinese 3Oriental Star 77 Asian/Chinese 13Original Impellizzeri’s 71 Pizza 1, 2, 10Osaka Sushi Bar 78 Asian/Japanese 1, 2Otto’s Café 67 Casual Dining 1Outback Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 59 Upscale Casual 5Palermo Viejo 81 European/Spanish 2Panda Chinese 77 Asian/Chinese 10Panda Express 77 Asian/Chinese 15Panera Bread Co. 72 Sandwich/Deli [9]Papa John’s 71 Pizza [30]Papa Murphy’s Pizza 71 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2Passtime Fish House 65 Seafood 6Pat’s Steak House 65 Steakhouse 2Patrick O’Shea’s 80 European/Irish 1Paul’s Fruit Market 73 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7Paula Deen Buffet 67 Casual Dining 14Pearl 79 Asian/Vietnamese 14Peking City Bistro 77 Asian/Chinese 5Penn Station 73 Sandwich/Deli [17]Peppers Bar and Grill 67 Casual Dining 1Perfetto Pizza 71 Pizza 6Perkfection 84 Coffee/Tea House 16Pesto’s Italian 80 European/Italian 1Petra Mediterranean 81 Middle Eastern 4Pho Binh Minh 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13

Highlands Taproom Grill 75 Bar & Grill 2Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 78 Asian/Japanese 5Hill Street Fish Fry 64 Seafood 13Hilltop Tavern 75 Bar & Grill 2Hitching Post Inn 75 Bar & Grill 11Hobknobb Roasting Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 14Holy Grale 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2Home Run Burgers & Fries 66 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13Homemade Pie Kitchen 85 Desserts [9]Hometown Buffet 68 Home Style/Southern 6,3Hometown Pizza 70 Pizza 7Honey Creme Donut Shop 85 Desserts/Bakery 14Honeybaked Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14Hong Kong Chinese 77 Asian/Chinese 14Hong Kong Fast Food 77 Asian/Chinese 13Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 75 Bar & Grill 13Hooters 66 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16Howl at the Moon 69 Entertainment Dining 1Hunan Wok 77 Asian/Chinese 11Ichiban Samurai 78 Asian/Japanese 6IHOP 66 Casual Dining 6, 15Incredible Dave’s 69 Entertainment Dining 8Indi’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16The International Mall 80 European/Italian 1The Irish Exit 80 European/Irish 14The Irish Rover 80 European/Irish 2, 7Iroquois Pizza 70 Pizza 13J. Alexander’s 58 Upscale Casual 3J. Graham’s Café 64 Cafés 1J. Gumbo’s 82 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6J. Harrods 59 Upscale Casual 10Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 56 Fine Dining 14Jack Fry’s 56 Fine Dining 2Jack’s Lounge 62 Bistro/Contemporary 3Jackson’s Seafood 64 Seafood 14Jade Palace 77 Asian/Chinese 5Jamba Juice 64 Cafés 1Jane’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 4Jasmin Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 4Jasmine 77 Asian/Chinese 5Jason’s Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5Java Brewing Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 2,8,10Jazzyblu 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 1Jersey Mike’s Subs 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8Jersey’s Café 75 Bar & Grill 15Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 72 Sandwich/Deli [9]Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Entertainment Dining 14Joe’s Crab Shack 64 Seafood 1Joe’s O.K. Bayou 82 Cajun/Creole 6Joe’s Older Than Dirt 66 Casual Dining 5John E’s 59 Upscale Casual 4John O’Bryan’s Tavern 75 Bar & Grill 12Johnny Brusco’s Pizza 70 Pizza 8Johnny V’s 70 Pizza 6JR’s Pub 75 Bar & Grill 14Jucy’s Smokehouse 74 Barbecue 5Jumbo Buffet 77 Asian/Chinese 6Kailana Sushi 78 Asian/Japanese 11Kansai Japanese Rest. 78 Asian/Japanese 6, 15Karem’s 67 Casual Dining 8Kashmir Indian 81 Indian 2Kayrouz Café 64 Cafés 3Kenna’s Korner 70 Pizza 8Kern’s Korner 67 Casual Dining 2King Wok 77 Asian/Chinese 3Kingfish 64 Seafood 6, 7, 16King’s Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 14King’s Fried Chicken 68 Home Style/Southern 13Kobe Japanese Steak 78 Asian/Japanese 16Koreana II 78 Asian/Korean 13KT’s 59 Upscale Casual 2Kum’s Kafe 68 Home Style/Southern 13La Bamba 82 Mexican 2La Bocca 80 European/Italian 14La Bocca Pizzeria 70 Bar & Grill 14La Bodega 80 European/Spanish 2La Carreta 82 Mexican 13La Colombiana 81 European/Spanish 8La Coop: Bistro à Vins 79 European/French 1La Gallo Rosso Bistro 80 European/Italian 2La Hacienda Guadalajara 82 Mexican 13La Monarca 82 Mexican 11La Pasadita 82 Mexican 16La Popular 82 Mexican 13La Que 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2La Rosita Mexican Grill 82 Mexican 14La Rosita Taqueria 82 Mexican 5, 13, 15Lancaster’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 14Las Gorditas 82 Mexican 11Lee’s Korean 78 Asian/Korean 13Legend’s 67 Casual Dining 14Lemongrass Café 79 Asian/Vietnamese 5Lenny’s Sub Shop 72 Sandwich/Deli 4The Lighthouse 75 Bar & Grill 16Lil’ Cheezers 72 Sandwich/Deli 2Lilly’s 56 Fine Dining 2Limestone 56 Fine Dining 5Ling Ling 77 Asian/Chinese 5Little Caesar’s Pizza 70 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16Little India Café 81 Indian 4Liu’s Garden 77 Asian/Chinese 5Logan’s Roadhouse 65 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15Lolitas Tacos Inc. 84 Mexican 13Longhorn Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago 72 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13Los Aztecas 84 Mexican 1, 5, 10Los Mezcales 84 Mexican 13

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Sol Aztecas 84 Mexican 1, 2Sonoma Coffee Café 85 Coffee/Tea House 2Soora Korean Restaurant 78 Asian/Korean 8Soupy’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 4Spaghetti Shop 80 European/Italian 11, 14Spinelli’s Pizzeria 71 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8Sporting News Grill 75 Bar & Grill 13The Sports & Social Club 75 Bar & Grill 1Spring St. Bar & Grill 75 Bar & Grill 2St. Charles Exchange 65 Steakhouse 1Star Sushi 78 Asian/Japanese 16Starbucks Coffee 85 Coffee/Tea House [35]Starving Artist Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 5State Donuts 85 Desserts/Bakery 8Steak N Shake 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15Stevens & Stevens Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 2Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 80 European/Italian 7Stoney River 65 Steakhouse 8Stricker’s Café 64 Cafés 16Studio Pizza 71 Pizza 15Sub Station II 73 Sandwich/Deli 13Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 85 Desserts/Bakery 11Sully’s Saloon 75 Bar & Grill 1Sunergos Coffee 85 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13SuperChef’s Breakfast 68 Casual Dining 2, 3Sway 59 Casual Dining 1Sweet Stuff Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 14Sweet Surrender 85 Desserts/Bakery 2Sweets & Such Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 12Taco Punk 68 Casual Dining 1Taco Tico 84 Mexican 12Tacqueria La Mexicana 84 Mexican 13Taj Palace 81 Indian 8Take Out To The River 64 Cafés 10Tambayan Filipino 77 Asian/Filipino 11TanThai Restaurant 79 Asian/Thai 14Tazza Mia 85 Coffee/Tea House 6TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 73 Sandwich/Deli 1Tea Station Chinese Bistro 77 Asian/Chinese 8Texas Roadhouse 65 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15Texicans BBQ Pit 74 Barbecue 7TGI Friday’s 68 Casual Dining 1Thai Café 79 Asian/Thai 7Thai Siam 79 Asian/Thai 4Thai Smile 5 79 Asian/Thai 13Thai Taste 79 Asian/Thai 2That Place On Goss 68 Casual Dining 13The Back Door 75 Bar & Grill 2The Café 64 Cafés 1The Cheddar Box 64 Cafés 3The Cheddar Box Too 64 Cafés 3Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 73 Sandwich/Deli 13Tin Roof 75 Bar & Grill 3Toast On Market 68 Casual Dining 1, 14Tokyo Japanese 78 Asian/Japanese 7Tom + Chee 73 Sandwich/Deli 2Tomo 78 Asian/Japanese 14Tony Impellizzeri’s 71 Pizza 14Trailside Café 85 Coffee/Tea House 5Troll Pub Under The Bridge 76 Bar & Grill 1Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14Tumbleweed 84 Southwest/Tex Mex [15]Tuscany Italian Restaurant 80 European/Italian 13Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint 71 Pizza 2Uptown Café 59 Upscale Casual 7Varanese 60 Upscale Casual 2Verbana Café 64 Cafés 8Vic’s Café 76 Bar & Grill 14Vietnam Kitchen 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13Village Anchor Pub & Roost 82 Bistro/Contemporary 5Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1Vint Coffee 85 Coffee/Tea House 2Vito’s Pizza 71 Pizza 13Volare 80 European/Italian 2W.W. Cousin’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 3Wagner’s Pharmacy 69 Home Style/Southern 13Wall Street Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 1Warehouse Hookah Café 82 Middle Eastern 14Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 78 Asian/Japanese 2Webb’s Market 69 Home Style/Southern 1Wick’s Pizza 71 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14Wild Eggs 64 Cafés 3, 5Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion 78 Asian/Japanese 2William’s Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 15Wiltshire On Market 60 Upscale Casual 1The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 13Wingstop 76 Bar & Grill 12Winston’s 56 Fine Dining 4Wok Express 77 Asian/Chinese 1Wolfgang Puck Express 64 Cafés 1Wonton Express 77 Asian/Chinese 4Yaching’s East West Cuisine 60 Upscale Casual 1Yafa Café 64 Cafés 1Yang Kee Noodle 77 Asian/Chinese 5Yellow Cactus 84 Mexican 14Yen Ching 77 Asian/Chinese 6You-Carryout-A 77 Asian/Chinese 15, 16Za’s Pizza 72 Pizza 2Zanzabar 76 Bar & Grill 13Zaxby’s 68 Casual Dining 5,13,14,16Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 82 Middle Eastern 2Zen Garden 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2ZiaLaLa Café 64 Cafés 5Zoe’s Kitchen 82 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8Zoup! 73 Sandwich/Deli 1Z’s Oyster Bar 56 Fine Dining 5

Piccadilly Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 6Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 84 Mexican 12Pink Baron BBQ 74 Barbecue 16Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 74 Barbecue 5Pita Delights 81 Middle Eastern 1Pita Hut 81 Middle Eastern 2Pita Pit 81 Middle Eastern 6Pizza King 71 Pizza 14, 16Pizza Place 71 Pizza 4Please & Thank You 84 Coffee/Tea House 2Plehn’s Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 3Police Donuts 85 Desserts/Bakery 5Ponderosa Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 13Porcini 80 European/Italian 2Potbelly Sandwich Shop 73 Sandwich/Deli 1Proof On Main 59 Upscale Casual 1Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 71 Pizza 3Puerto Vallarta 84 Mexican 11, 14, 16Qdoba Mexican Grill 84 Mexican [13]Quattro 80 European/Italian 1Queen of Sheba 76 African 1, 4Queue Café 64 Cafés 1Quick Wok 77 Asian/Chinese 1Quill’s Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14Quizno’s Subs 73 Sandwich/Deli [7]Rafferty’s of Louisville 67 Casual Dining 3, 8Raising Cane’s 67 Casual Dining 8Ramiro’s Cantina 84 Mexican 2Ramsi’s Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2Red Hot Roasters 85 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 67 Casual Dining 3, 8Red Sun Chinese 77 Asian/Chinese 4Red’s Comfort Food 73 Sandwich/Deli 1Relish 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1Ri Ra Irish Pub 80 European/Irish 1Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 74 Barbecue 1River City Drafthouse 75 Bar & Grill 2River City Winery 62 Bistro/Contemporary 4River Road BBQ 74 Barbecue 7Riverside Café 64 Cafés 16Rivue 56 Fine Dining 1Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 71 Pizza 4Rocky’s Sub Pub 71 Pizza 16Romano’s Macaroni Grill 80 European/Italian 5Rooster’s 67 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 75 Bar & Grill 8Roots 78 Asian/Japanese 2Rosie’s Pizza 71 Pizza 5Rosticeria Luna 84 Mexican 13Royal Garden 77 Asian/Chinese 13Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 74 Barbecue 13Ruby Tuesday 67 Casual Dining 6, 15The Rudyard Kipling 67 Casual Dining 1Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 65 Seafood 5Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 3Ryan’s Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 11Rye 59 Upscale Casual 1SaE Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 1Saffron’s 81 Middle Eastern 1Safier Mediterranean Deli 81 Middle Eastern 1Saigon Café 79 Asian/Vietnamese 3Saigon One 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13Saint’s 75 Bar & Grill 3Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 78 Asian/Japanese 11Sakura Blue 78 Asian/Japanese 3Sal’s Pizza & Wings 71 Pizza 5Sala Thai 79 Asian/Thai 11Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 84 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5Sam’s Food & Spirits 67 Casual Dining 14Santa Fe 84 Mexican 16Santa Fe Grill 84 Mexican 13Sapporo Japanese Grill 78 Asian/Japanese 1, 2Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 77 Asian/Filipino 2Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 78 Asian/Japanese 3Schlotzsky’s Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 8Scotty’s Ribs & More 74 Barbecue 5Scotty’s Village Market 73 Sandwich/Deli 8Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 82 Cajun/Creole 5Senor Iguana’s 84 Mexican 5, 6, 13, 15Sergio’s World Beers 75 Bar & Grill 2Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Fine Dining 2Shack In The Back BBQ 74 Barbecue 13Shady Lane Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 7Shah’s Mongolian Grill 78 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13Shalimar Indian 81 Indian 6Shane’s Rib Shack 74 Barbecue 7Shanghai Restaurant 77 Asian/Chinese 1Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 80 European/Irish 2Sherry’s Corner Café 64 Cafés 16Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 81 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13Shirley Mae’s Café 69 Home Style/Southern 1Shogun 78 Asian/Japanese 6, 8Shoney’s 67 Casual Dining 5, 13Sichuan Garden 77 Asian/Chinese 6Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 71 Pizza 1The Silver Dollar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2Simply Thai 79 Asian/Thai 3, 5Sin Fronteras 84 Mexican 15Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 71 Pizza 15Sister Bean’s 85 Coffee/Tea House 13Sitar Indian Restaurant 81 Indian 2Skyline Chili 67 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12Smashburger 67 Casual Dining 1, 5Smokehouse BBQ 74 Barbecue 11Smoketown USA 74 Barbecue 1Smokey Bones BBQ 74 Barbecue 6Smokey’s Bean 85 Coffee/Tea House 13Snappy Tomato 71 Pizza 8

RESTAURANT PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE MAP #RESTAURANT PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE MAP #


RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = DinnerSpring 2013 www.foodanddine.com56

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln.896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews con -tinues to rank among the city’s top tables. Owner-manager Andrew Smith and long time Chef TroySchuster have burnished the upscale atmosphereand creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to adestination dining spot. $$$$ Br L D pf

610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. ChefEdward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has

kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restau -rant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthlyfamily style pasta and bistro dinners across the streetin the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciatehis skills at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf

BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but notoverstated, this fine dining room in the MayflowerApartments has been quietly serving high-stylelunches and dinners for more than two decades.The quality of food and service remains high, andRick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano.$$$ L D hpfe

CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 NortonHealthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, long timefixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-outwith his East End destination. Housed in the stunningformer Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is stateof the art, the dining room amenities include achef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to thekitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worththe trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf

ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel),583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room isfiring on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli,who brings an international sophis ti cation to themenu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occa -sional special wine dinners. We recom mend bookingthe chef’s table for an especially memorable evening.$$$ D p

JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel,Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horse -shoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, isno gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steak house,but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccableservice, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp

JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Goodtimes or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisvilleinstitution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — isalways crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has

taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but theupscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicyfried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe

LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisvilleinstitution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s,under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, con -tinues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods shefeatures on her Kentucky-accented menus. Herfrequent special wine dinners are among the moreaffordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p

LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. ChefJim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegantdining experience in the East End. Seasonal themedinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offerspecial values. $$$$ L D hpf

MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Edward Leehas taken over the basement space at Actors Theatre,revamped the decor, and with Len Stevens, formerlyof L&N Wine Bar managing, will run it as a “modernspeakeasy with cuisine that will explore Southern BarFood with an Asian pantry.” That means both wineand beer on tap, and a quirky menu that will includeLee’s take on fried chicken and “lip-smacking froglegs.” $$$ D p

THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel),585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who alsooperates Limestone in the East End) continues tomake the Oakroom worthy of its AAA five-diamond desig na tion. The menu is refined butlively, melding local produce and specialty itemslike spoonfish caviar with classic continentalcuisine. $$$$ Br D pe

RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239.The sleek black and white modern decor, slowlyspinning to give a panorama of the city, brings tomind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’smenu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes,adds another top hotel dining experience to thecity. $$$ Br D hp

SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 BardstownRd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche,the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrusjuices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers abroad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes.Lamas has recently been getting national notice inEsquire and on TV’s “Extreme Chef,” and with therenovation and expansion of the restaurant nowcomplete, he is setting a new standard of cool forthe Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known forits suave professional service, high-end NorthernItalian fare and many trademark dishes finished attableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own againstgrowing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe

WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd.,(Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Highereduca tion meets higher cuisine at this elegant on-campus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary artsstudents. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractiveand stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs thestaff through its paces guaranteeing that whilestudents are learning their craft, your dinner willace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservationssuggested. $$$ Br L D p

Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 WhittingtonPkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Thesuccessful upscale steak and oyster concept thathas worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs isnow also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue.Splendid steaks, extra ordinary seafood, fine serviceand clubby ambience will give visitors anothercenter-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelby -ville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortabledining room with a large, friendly bar offering an

$$$$ = $15-$20$$$$ = $21 & up

$$ = under $8$$ = $9-$14

GUIDE KEY

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATEDIN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. Whenout of the area, use area code 502 forall listings except Indiana, use 812.

Average Entrée Price:

RED=Advertiser

B = Breakfast

Br= Brunch

L = Lunch

D = Dinner

h = Late NightOPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar

f= OutdoorDining

e = Live Music

56-85_Guide_spr13_Guide_MASTER_FirstEdit_Summer08_Robin02.qxd 1/30/13 12:43 PM Page 56

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 57www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013

im posing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails.The menu offers fairly priced ContemporaryAmerican bistro fare. $$$ D hfe

ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteenyears ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville dinersto pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophis - ti cated, multi-level, Bards town Road restaurant hecon tinues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes thatpresent often startling flavor combinations. Hiswok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite.$$$ Br D hpf

AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded andbistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, thissuburban watering hole taps the same vein as thenational franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and doesso well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$Br L D p

BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave.,896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style ofAsian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing enter -taining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daringchoices like caramelized catfish claypot andtamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp

BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962.Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly ofRick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his manyfans at his latest restau rant in the Prospect Center.The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistroentrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken,including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light”fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf

THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.(See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.)

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W.Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLUoffers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine instriking surroundings highlighted by Mexican lime -stone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxinglibation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offersa more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe

BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chainas “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positionedbetween the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American stylefare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ Br L Dhpf

BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W.Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585,2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr.,Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A corner stone of Louis - ville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started threedecades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venuesaround town, diners can always find dependablepub grub, eclectic entrées, and ever green standardslike the green-chile won tons and the BristolBurger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted anexceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. MuhammadAli Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of theFuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases down -town diners with this stylish Japanese eatery nextdoor to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choosea comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp

CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 491-1184. The restaurant in the Jeffersontown Marriottplays up its Bourbon theme on the menu divisions(“10 minute White Dog” lunch choices, “BourbonKitchen Favorites,” “Bootlegger Burger Bar” and soon) but in addition you will find some interestingoutliers: fish tacos, a turkey burger, truffle mac andcheese and hot water cornbread. The Bourbonselection is impressive and includes more than 75offerings of Kentucky’s finest. $$$ Br L D hp

The Perfect Location for Every Occasion

KENTUCKY’S FIRST AND ONLY AAA FIVE DIAMOND

AWARD RESTAURANT

KENTUCKY’S FIRST AND Y’S FIRST AND

500 South Fourth Street www.TheOakroomLouisville.com

(502) 807-DINE

Located in


THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd.,(Mall St. Matthews) 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is itsname, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers awide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in ortake out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though,with a wide-ranging menu of California, South -western and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service.$$$ Br L D hpf

CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about thissuburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term“eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp

DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Located in an1870s building in NuLu, Decca brings the talent ofchef Annie Pettry to Louisville. A commitment tolocally farmed and small production ingredients isevident in the kitchen, and throughout the bar andwine program. Decca features local artists andmusicians alongside inspired food and drinks in awarm atmosphere. $$$$ D hpfe

DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’ssolidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row.Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried greentomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all servedin a hand some renovation of one of Main Street’sclassic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp

EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newishCorbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders,veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to hisflagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning theroom for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusingthe menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over$19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expectthe quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ D p

GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. ChefHarold Baker has been at the helm of this IrishHill upscale casual spot since the start about ayear ago. His menu features appetizers such as ababy Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chilisauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye,Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant napoleon.$$$ D phpfe

HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agriculturalentre preneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into therestaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods(Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shootingfor 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limitsthe fish selection, but increases diners’ awarenessof how much local food producers can do. Dishessuch as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilkfried chicken with arugula hoecake show whatthey have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf

HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 CarterAve., Shepherdsville, KY, 955-1010. In this“American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eatamidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Dailyspecials are inspired by world cuisines and the“confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzertortes and extreme turtle cheese cake. Watch glassbeing blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e

HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585.Named for reputed gourmand Henry Watterson,this new East End, Euro-inspired brigade decuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale diningin surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices suchas Wagyu beef carpaccio, seared ahi tuna withfennel slaw, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chefand co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolkduck eggs in his house-made pasta for added rich -ness and color. $$$$ D p

J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court,339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, aNashville-based chain, features “contemporaryAmerican” fare with a broad menu that ranges fromburgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats asgrilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp



J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J.Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly com -fort able. The food is competitive in both quality andvalue. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fareand old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p

JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Thirty yearsof framed Derby programs and winning tickets linethe walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoythis rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhousesteak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whetheror not your horse came in. $$$$ Br L D pfe

KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to arguewith success, and KT’s has earned its popularity byproviding good American-style bar and bistro chowfor a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf

MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009.Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its nameand its signature red-wax image to this stylish restau -rant and lounge in the booming down town enter -tainment complex. A magisterial bar features morethan 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditionalKentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf

MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.This Florida-based chain brings back pleasantmemories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you canmelt it and dip things in it, the Melting Potprobably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp

NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Inno -va tive wine-country cuisine, excellent service andfine California-focused wine collection can be foundin the stylish quarters of this popular East Endrestaurant. With an expanded menu serving bothlunch and dinner, it’s become one of the anchors oftrendy Westport Village center. $$$ L D hpf

OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville,KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners havehappily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both thehistoric building and the traditional Kentucky menuof this dining institution. Those in the know orderthe fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd.,327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themedrestaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinese-style dishes. To its credit, everything is preparedwell and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf

PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., (21c Hotel) 217-6360. Executive chef Levon Wallace is at the helmin the kitchen now, promising to keep the bisonburger and the octopus on the menu as he exploreshis own ways to incorporate local products into hisculinary vision. $$$ Br L D hpf

RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. After a long appren -ticeship in the New York restaurant world, MichaelTrager-Kusman has returned to his hometown wherehe and his partner, Aaron Yarmuth, have investedin the renovation of the old Hausmann Jeep Eaglebuilding on far east Market St. Operating the restau -rant is front-of-the-house manager Erin McDonald,who came from Chicago, and Chef Tyler Morris, aveteran of The Breslin in New York. $$ L D hpf

SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434.After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency,long without a signature competitive restaurant, isnow back in the game, with one of the handsomestdining spaces around. The menu is based on the“Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway,which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food withlocal sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opensonto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching.$$$ B L D hpf

UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212.Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for twodecades now, the Uptown continues to be a popularlunch and dining destination, with its excellentbistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections.$$$ L D hpf


LOCAL EATS AMERICAN SPIRITS900 EAST MARKET STREET RYEONMARKET.COM



VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef JohnVaranese has made even old-timers forget that thisstylish venue was once a gas station. With a slateinterior waterfall and a front wall that folds open ingood weather, the dining room is as interesting asthe lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz,con temporary art and urban style complete themood. $$$ D hpfe

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See reviewunder European/Italian.)

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 589-5224. Understated elegance and creative dishescharacterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner SusanHershberg set the benchmark for fine catering inLouisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she con -tinues here with her finely crafted small platesmenu that changes weekly to showcase the bestseasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reser -va tions suggested. $$ D pf

YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St.,585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu ofcontemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractivemix of East and West, sufficient to give just abouteveryone something to enjoy, regardless of whichcompass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

A.P. CRAFTERS KITCHEN & BAR 1321 Herr Ln.,690-5000. Tony Palombino stretches beyond hisgourmet pizza with this bold venture in WestportVillage. The decor echoes the place’s name, withfloor to ceiling shelving stocked with vintagecookware, distillery and brewer’s supplies. The menuconcept is Euro gastropub, with upscale comfortfood, craft beers and “Prohibition-style” cocktails.$$ L D hpf

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (EmbassySuites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere inthe heart of the hotel. Specials run from theirpopular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to aReuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp

BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 584-1635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is alsoan ambitious restaurant, known for surprises likeCajun linguini with andouille sausage, home madedesserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunch time“steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impres -sive beer list to go with your meal. $$ L D pf

BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 618-1745. Michael Crouch, formerly of BourbonsBistro, heads the kitchen, offering a menu he calls“new American-French fusion” and describes ascontinental techniques applied to an eclectic rangeof small plates. All parts of the menu are offered atthree size/price ranges: petite for tasting, appetizerand small entrée, allowing diners to explore themenu at reasonable cost. The bar emphasizes winesand custom cocktails. $$$ D hpf

BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Qualitycontemporary American cuisine in a stylish envi -ron ment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternativewhen you’re looking for upscale-casual diningdowntown. $$$ L D pf

THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.A popular hangout since its opening, this Euro-stylegastropub’s menu focuses on French country cooking,house-made sausages and charcuterie, served in acasual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19thcentury building in Butchertown. After dinner, popupstairs to the trendy Meat, one of Louisville’s topnightspots. $$ Br L D hpe

BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and agreat bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list.This Crescent Hill favorite’s menu is well-matchedwith the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf



BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’spronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar contentof ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietorsof this wine bar know their vino. Interesting winesand a short bistro-style menu make it a welcomesuburban alternative. $$ D hpe

CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot winscritical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-ChefClay Wallace is comfortable with his internationalbill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. Asecond location in the Douglass Loop is drawingequally-pleased crowds. $$ Br L D hp

CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. Atfirst a coffee bar, but over the years the classy spaceat Clifton and Frankfort has matured into anelegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmoncroquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, aninternational array of salads, panini, bocadillos andpizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for alate-night supper. $$ B L D fe

DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669.Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissomhas stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch spaceon Market Street, renovating the kitchen and someinterior space of the old Delta Restaurant into asome what upscale spot now open breakfast throughdinner. $ B Br L D pf

DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129.This informally whimsical Highlands space masksthe work of classically trained owner-chefs DominicSerratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of thefanciful art work adorning the exposed brick wallsand the gar goyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlookSerratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New Englandcrab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch eggdishes. $$ Br L D hpf

EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., NewAlbany, IN, 948-6501. Ian Hall, with Chef RickAdams in tow, has moved his gastropub to asumptuously renovated historic building in thecenter of the New Albany dining revival. His cleverbut accessible American bistro style food isavailable from lunch to late night. Notable on themenu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (house-made chips with bison chili topping) and skirtsteak. $$ L D hpfe

FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Taking over the space vacated by the German -town Pub, Four Pegs offers craft beer at approach -able prices, as well as well-priced pub grub such asa chicken and waffle sandwich and a pork chopsandwich served with a Granny Smith apple slaw.Chef Matt Flink, formerly of Browning’s, helms thekitchen here. $ D h

HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Twoveterans of the upscale kitchens along BardstownRoad have taken over the old Swan Dive space, andpatrons of the previous vegan haunt are quicklybecoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispymush room medley and veggie tacos join interestingoddities like duck sliders and bacon plantaincroquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes,and a reasonable beer selection. $ D h

HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth StreetLive), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Liveechoes with a bang amid hammering guitars andhappy throngs at the local branch of this popularshrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, butyou’ll have no com plaints about Hard Rock’sstandard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe

HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. Theowners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted aformer church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twentytaps offer a rotating choice of international brews,and an eclectic menu offers Belgian fritjes, pretzelsand beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ L D he



JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. Asophis ticated, elegant bar associated with theEquus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short butexcellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites,along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf

JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The base mentspace at Glassworks that formerly housed The JazzFactory is bopping again with regularly scheduledlive jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, andsouthern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri.$ L D hpe

MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 618-2222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch hostMajid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St.Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu.The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses onAmerican wines and an eclectic list from unusuallocations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and theBalkans. $$$ Br D pfe

MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888.Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclecticlocal empire serves up contemporary Mexicanstreet food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu thathighlights an impressive collection of tequilas andBourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live actsmost nights of the week, featuring Nashville bandsas well as local talent tending to the rawer, honky-tonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe

MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St.,625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater isa deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular baris the serene dining room, with a central hearth, andbeyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef DallasMcGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinaryconcepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout andcurry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf

MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his wifeand cousin continue to stretch their ambitions andimagina tions with an affordable “American bistro

concept” featuring six different mussels dishes saucedwith things like meunier, sofrito, marina, curry andGreek style. There are 12 clever twists on burgerswith the pattys ground fresh daily from a mix of topsirloin, brisket and short rib. Located in a strip malljust beyond the Hurstbourne Lane-TaylorsvilleRoad intersection, it is worth seeking out, both forthe food this talented crew presents, and for thecomfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernousspace tricked out by former owners. L D hpe

NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770,2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Now with a secondlocation in Douglass Loop, folks in the Highlands,as well as Clifton, can enjoy North End’s hearty andunusual breakfast, or satisfying lunches anddinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas andinteresting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordableplace to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe

OLD 502 WINERY 122 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. Watchthe winemakers craft 10 varieties of wine fromKentucky-grown grapes and imported juices as youenjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale-casual eateryjust west of downtown. The winery serves a fullbar-style menu. $$ L D he

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd.,451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of theHighlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclecticspirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban.Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, aweekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw.$$ L D hpf

RELISH 1346 River Rd., 587-7007. After a long hiatusfrom the restaurant biz, former Jack Fry’s and LaPaloma owner, Susan Seiller, has opened this small,50-seat lunch and takeout place focusing on “healthy,clean cuisine.” After cooking for her father following aheart attack, Seiler was inspired to create a restaurantserving healthful foods with lots of flavor. Takeout willbe available only to customers with pre-paid accountsand who order their food online for pickup. $$ L f

RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN,945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and MelissaHumphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 IndyInter national Wine Competition. Their honest,straight forward wines and Italian-inspired menu,featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciativecrowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyedpea salsa. $$ Br L D e

THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540.The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk barand restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused onthe “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali andAmerican roots music. The southern country-stylemenu with sophis ticated nuances has been an imme -diate hit. Choose from more than 80 KentuckyBourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreignwhiskey” like Scotch or vodka. $$ Br L D hpf

VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 ParkRd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the oldtrain station is this two-level Euro-village inspiredconcept. On the upper level, a French bistro a laMoulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairsat The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. Thehearty upscale comfort food-style menu is servedlunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short,well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list withmore than 50 craft and import choices accompany55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544.This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright littleplace, and the lunch-only menu is affordable andappealing. $ L

THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880.It started as a suburban coffee bar and café offeringcontinental breakfasts and sandwiches. But in notime Anchorage Café has morphed into a premiumbakery and Anchorage-area go-to spot for eclectic,

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner



farm-to-table meals at lunch and dinner. And it stilloffers excellent espresso. $ B Br L D f

AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN,888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffeewill fuel you for a night of enter tain ment. $ B L D hp

BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 FrankfortAve., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium atthis popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunchspot. And its artisanal bakery continues to producehearty European-style breads that have set a goldstandard on restau rant tables and in better grocerystores around town. $$ B L f

BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320.This little lunch spot in the Derby City AntiqueMall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet lineplus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. OnSundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice ofbreakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L

BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In themidst of the booming West Main Street arts andmuseum district, this lunch spot offers standardAmerican café fare. $ L

BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd.,456-4500. This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in anattractive old house on Bardstown Road, offersinteresting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealingdessert choices. $$ L

CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929.Cuisine from around the world is featured at thisEast End neighborhood café, featuring home madesoups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonallychanging menu. $ B L

CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. Thisbreakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts andlunches mainly to the denizens of the WattersonTowers office complex. Home-style cooking, dailyspecials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keepthe wheels of business rolling. $ B L

CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2622. An attractive — and busy — Middletownlunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew servespopular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well ashot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish,specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken withorzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your nextcocktail party. $ L D f

CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. PrestonSt., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star inthe city’s culinary firmament, brings his cookingskills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients tothese simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L

CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave.,896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offercasual but quality café fare in this comfortable oldframe house in Clifton. $$ L D

CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln.,New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpostwarps customers back into the days of general storesand maintains every bit of old fashioned charm.Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers.Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, blackbear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) roundout an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f

CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN,246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to localHoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Fullbreakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. Afull range of standard lunch sandwiches, withReubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials.Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f

DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky DerbyMuseum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round inthe dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum withsuch regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and theHot Brown. $ L pf

Located on 10th Street between Main and MarketMon – Sat: 11am – 11pm

122 South 10th Street, Louisville, KY

(502) 540-5650

et a glimpse of wine making, while enjoying a glass of wine.

old

502 winery

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EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E.Market St., 180 W. Spring St., New Albany IN, 949-4430. Vege tarians and vegans can find a lot to lovehere in the sandwich, salad and soup sections of themenu, but they will have to co-exist with carnivores.The menu insists, though, that “all meats [are] pro -duced from humanely raised, grass-fed animals andare produced without added hormones.” $ B Br L

ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 635-6960, 455 S. Fourth St., (Starks Bldg.) 585-5120.These popular bakeries attract crowds looking foran enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlightedby French-style breads and pastries. $ B L

HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. You can order breakfast anytime at thisHighlands space, with an eclectic menu that alsoencom passes brunch, burgers, soul food, Southerndishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h

J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (TheBrown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary“Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a morecasual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscaleEnglish Grill, with choice of menu service or buffetdining. $$ B L pf

JAMBA JUICE 320 S. Fourth St., 581-0066. A nationalchain known best for its silky-frosty fruit smoothies,some of which are health focused (the carrot juiceand orange-berry anti-oxidant blend is one example),Jamba has added some basic breakfast (oatmeal,wraps) and lunch items (flatbread pizza andtoasted sandwiches) to broaden its appeal. $ L D

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tuckedin among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the bestsandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad,Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken andhamburger — all are innovative and all come withsome of the best fries in town. $ L D f

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. Thislittle lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St.Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the placeis sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare isconsistently fine. A selection of appetizing break -fast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f

NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown,245-4411. Picturesque downtown Middletown needspleasant places for ladies to lunch, and Nonnie’sKitchen now occupies the space that once housedTiffany Cellars Café. A mother-son team fromChicago has hit the ground running, with a menuof soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that havedelighted early adopters. $ L f

ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 MissouriAve., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick break -fast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clovermuffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors witha blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake versionwith cranberries. Two soup specials offered everyday out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’tresult in many repeats. $ B L

QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building),583-0273. $ B L f

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr., JeffersonvilleIN (Sheraton Hotel), 284-6711. The breakfast roomand bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast serveduntil 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ Bpf

SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charles -town IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are servedat this archetypical family eatery specializing infresh, home-style cooking. $ L

STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffer -sonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant servinghearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts andbreakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L

TAKE OUT TO THE RIVER 9550 US Hwy. 42, 365-2605. $ L D

THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see thetraffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene

walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast andlunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dillsoup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amusedat the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture andchan de liers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent ofits former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f

THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324.For more than 25 years this St. Matthews traditionhas delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students whomunch, and just about everyone else with their sand -wiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It catersparties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, partysandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extendedher presence with a café just across the parking lot.Look for the same tasty salads, soups and dessertsthat have made her take-away business so popular.$ B L

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for break -fast and serves hearty lunches till mid afternoon,but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of thosehours. $$ B L f

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicyegg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more havemade Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast andlunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can nowbe found at this growing mini-chain’s third outlet.$ B Br L p

WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St.,562-0983. Bearing the name of the celeb rityAustrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in thecorner of the convention center offers tasty wraps,sandwiches and soups. $$ L

YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D hf

ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803.The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian back -grounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latincafé with a European flair.” The eclectic menuincludes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crustpizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, paniniand empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican andJamaican flavors. $ L D f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4666. This franchise concept from the Florida-based Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressiveseafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish toyour short list of suburban chain eateries that dothe job right. $$$ D hp

CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A familyfriendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating andthe kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ LD pf

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarks -ville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendantof Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, ClarksvilleSeafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood,served on paper trays — but it is consis tentlyexcellent and affordable. And now open until 8p.m. most nights. $ L D

EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd.,937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eatfish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County.Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy theirstocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not pos -sible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f

FISH-FRY HOUSE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583.The owners of Sharom’s and Zaytun have opened anew fish house, serving up the crisp, fresh friedseafood that made Sharom’s an Okolona favorite.$$ L D hp

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993.Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lakewith fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House isright up there with the best. Crisp breading lacedwith black pepper is the signature of Green Riverfried fish from Western Kentucky. $ Br L D f

THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fisheatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash withthem, The Fishery remains justly popular for itsquick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafoodmeals. $ L D f

FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD

HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy tomiss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversizedfried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but avaried menu is also available. $ L D f

JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New AlbanyIN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locally-famed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiledor blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’sformer employer will find many similarities in thefood, but offered with customer-friendly serviceand rational, predictable hours. $ L D

JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. Thesetting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright,noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing apanoramic river view. $$ L D hpf

KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd.,895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Friedfish in a family dining setting has made this localchain a popular favorite for many years. Two of itsproperties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive— boast river views. $$ L D hpfe



MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. MikeLinnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish andseafood at family prices since 1925 and remainsimmensely popular. There’s indoor seating and abar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade treesmakes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out ofseason — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters theplace and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr.,412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokesthe feeling of a large fish market, with an openkitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Qualityseafood and service have made Mitchell’s a populardestination. $$$ L D hpf

PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633.If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich anda cold beer or two, with no frills, this southsidetavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order,and be sure to have cash — no credit cardsaccepted here. $$ L D fe

RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelby -ville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without thescantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a beadon Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L Dhpf

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St.,Jefferson ville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 384-7466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaksand sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hitsuch a popular nerve that he opened two morelocations on the Kentucky side of the river. Theambience of all his places is upscale with “nopeanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or countrymusic,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf

CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. HurstbournePkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574.The small chain that’s grown up around Louisvilleis now here. In addition to the mid-priced beefofferings look for starters such as fried pickle chipsand jalapeno poppers, grilled chicken and salmonand plenty of sandwich choices. $$$ L Dhp

DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. LoyalLouisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28-year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brickwalls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiastwould know to order the filet or Porterhouse, butonly regulars know the glories of something calledgreen phunque. $$$$ D hp

EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. FourthSt., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuousrenovation of the space at the corner of Fourth andMuhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largestdining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based smallchain with big ambi tions boasts glittering mosaicartwork, a handsome bar opening onto FourthStreet, and luxurious seating in secluded nooksand corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks,well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$L D hpe

JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 584-0102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made animpact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks,glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. Therooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steakstake the rail with seafood and sushi coming up faston the outside. $$$$ D hpe

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 893-3884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis &Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 AlliantAve., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanutshells on the floor and steaks on the table into apopular formula. $$ L D hp

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne GemLn., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210

Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 284-5800, 4813Outer Loop, 969-9790 . Over size steaks and a “bigsky” western theme are the draw at this chaineatery, although most of its properties are east ofthe Mississippi. $$ L D hp

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This below-ground temple to the red meat gods is elegant andmasculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails andleather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grownrestaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-basedchain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895-4329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Browns -boro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399,1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The namesuggests Australia, and so does the shtick at thispopular national chain, but the food is pretty muchfamiliar American, and the fare goes beyond just steakto take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 896-9234. A local favorite for fifty years and as tradi -tional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like hisfather before him, cuts the meats himself. Its com -bination of quality beef and hospitality rank itamong the best steak houses in town. The big newsat Pat’s: credit cards now accepted! $$$$ D pf

PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy.,964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranchtheme kept alive with the open flame from thegrills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods,salads and desserts is also available. $ L D

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln.,479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declaredRolex the world’s best watch, Armani the bestmen’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Christhe best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak inan atmosphere of elegance that will make you feelpampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe

RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd.,491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offersfamily dining with good variety: Its diverse and exten -sive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D

THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St.,618-1917. Two Philadelphia restaurateurs havebrought this new upscale eatery and cocktaillounge, upstairs in the same building Morton’ssteakhouse. The menu turns back the clock to early1900s style food — dishes like crab Louie, shrimpcocktail, steak Diane, and coq au vin, with a “high-level” cocktail program. $$$$ D hp

STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 SummitPlaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Spring -hurst shopping center is one of the chain’s firstproperties outside its Georgia home. It draws bigcrowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings,with extra points for friendly service and acomfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp

TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.(Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy.,897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spiritof the West sets the theme for this popular steakhouse. Salads, vegetables and breads with heartyside dishes round out your meal options. This isfamily-style dining, with no tray sliding — serviceat your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., NewAlbany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160,Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. 404 Lafollette Station,Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billedas “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enoughto have launched two more branches. All specializein simple, down-home breakfast and lunch ataffordable prices. $ B L



APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chainfeatures an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs,poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s ascon sistent as a cookie cutter, but competent exe cu -tion makes it a good bargain for those whose tastesrun to main stream American cuisine. $$ L D hp

ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd.,239-2200. The entrepreneur who created TexasRoad house and Buckhead’s is back with a conceptthat’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurantthat invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, andoffers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry atprices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 ShelbyvilleRd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern Cali -fornia chain arrived east of the Mississippi, includinga large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. Afull range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dis pensed,along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp

BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown PlazaHotel) 367-2251. $$$ L D hp

BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 614-6567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered tooffer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger— grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie(or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — andthen head for the topping bar. $ L D f

BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. HurstbournePkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearingtight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typicalbar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encouragepatrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winningcorporate concept, don’t you think? $$ L D hpf

BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 BardstownRd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., JeffersonvilleIN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. Thedeck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville,with its view across the river, is a great place for alazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribsand a couple of cold ones is all you want. The bigsquare bars in all three locations, with multiple TVscreens, make for excellent sports viewing as well.$$ L D hpf

BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132.This little Highlands made-to-order gourmethamburger shop concocts quality burgers with arange of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf

CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House),589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue offersa range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon andeggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd.,228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateriesfor atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches thebeautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare thatwon’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightfulplace to dine. $$ Br L D pfe

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 CrittendenDr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of theKentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U ofL sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards,photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memo -rabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! CasualAmerican dining features everything from a “CardinalBurger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn),Clarks ville IN. 283-4411. Known by locals for itsSaturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye andprime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendlymenu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd.,339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. Thispopular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungrycrowds with its large bar and familiar “casual toupscale American” fare. $ L D hpf

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More thanjust a place to chow down on baby back ribs, thisnational chain has a wide selection including fajitas,burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp

CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467,126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handedmezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop uplettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads orwraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating,the steady lunchtime crowds attest that officeworkers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D

COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 137-year-old building has gonethrough some remodeling this winter, and JeromePope, 10 year veteran of The Brown Hotel, hasreturned with a revamped menu. He is serving upmodern American fare, things like house-madesoups, braised rabbit, and a sizzling chicken dish.$$$ L D pf

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger”and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, youknow you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast foodand friendly service make this chain a popular EastEnd spot. $ L Df

CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into itsthird century in modern quarters that capturemuch of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’svends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in thisdown town location and in a second eatery onHarrods Creek. $ Br L D hpf

DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 GreeneWay, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched byWhite Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches(the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great)

and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices.No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h

EDESIA GARDENS 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 263-7100.Named after the Roman goddess of gourmet foods,this banquet and events space also offers a Sundaybrunch buffet to the public. $$ Br

FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 WilsonAve., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary com bi -na tion — steak and lemonade — but this little near-West End place is a gem offering an eclectic range ofquick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizzarolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h

FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street,New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr.,426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokesthe early days of fast food with freshly-grilledburgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condi mentsto satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out ofthis world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D

FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 290-7273.Since 1952, serving up rolled oysters, Germancomfort food and fried chicken to Germantownresidents and fans from far and wide. Where elsecan you find limburger and braunsweiger withonions on rye and Warsteiner on draft? $ D f

GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housedin a former service station in NuLu, Garage Barserves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons,seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a wood-fired brick oven and Southern specialties, with anemphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The hamflight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.This family-owned eatery has been around fordecades. Standard casual American cuisine adds afew Russian-style specialties such as homemadeborsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specialsinclude lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L

GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 339-8070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned com -fort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but tran -scen dently adds a gourmet taste to the down-homeeats. $ B Br L D

GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd.,361-1106. The name says most of what you need toknow. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced.The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggestsellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f

GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf servesup vegetarian fare in the new town center ofUniversity of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asianfocus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, aswell as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D

HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. HurstbournePkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388,12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. CardinalBlvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinkswith a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot,and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’schoice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f

HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 DixieHwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarks ville IN, 284-9464.Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standingreputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for thefood, an appetizing selection of soups, salads,seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 285-1772, 1401 S.Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans canchoose to go out to the East End or across the riverto satisfy their jones for the national chain’sinimitable food. $ B L D h

JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd.,426-2074. Going strong after many years in this



Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from alittle house to a sprawling complex of indoor andoutdoor tables with live music many evenings.Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-coldbeer. $ L D hpfe

KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants toopen in the village-like Norton Commons, carriesthe look and feel of a neighborhood watering holeinside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, isthe food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h

KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726.This family-owned tavern has been a popular neigh - borhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshlymade ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers,as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers.$ L D pf

LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN,888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders areserved up with riverboat hospitality, but in a LasVegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a livestage welcome the best of regional and visitingnational acts. $$ L D hpe

MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd.,561-0024. $ B L

MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588.This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goesurban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy andcountry. This East End outlet has developed afollowing beyond those familiar with it from otherlocations. $$ B Br L D hpf

THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wherethe Highlands meet Germantown, The MonkeyWrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, topflight music, a relaxed ambience and welcomingservice. A rooftop patio packs them in on warmevenings. $ L D hpfe

MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd.,632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone,but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Althoughthe “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still out -side, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoe-shaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs showthat a new game is afoot. The beer list now includesBBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu isgeared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steakand shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf

NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned andoperated outpost up the road a piece, long known fortheir warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere,has expanded their craft beer selection. The localcognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas,steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups arecreated daily. Coffee and desserts are always madefresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p

NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd.,New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp

O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. couldserve well as the picture in the dictionary next to“American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chainoperates 206 properties in 16 states in the South eastand Midwest, serving a straight forward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with anattitude.” $$ Br L D hp

OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel),585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makesOtto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s moreupscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern BreakfastBuffet and Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$BBrL

PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel,Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extendsher food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled afterher restaurants, the motif is based on the architec tureof Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there’sa shop attached, where you can purchase aprons,

cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line.$$$$ B Br L D

PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (HyattRegency) 587-3434. This newly renovated casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a fulldinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitorsas well. $$ D hp

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln.,897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. Thisfull-service, casual dining establishment has a heartymenu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcasethe gourmet offerings along with some of the largestand most creative salad combinations in town. $$L D hpf

RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. Anational chain with a single core product — chickenfingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custardbrings simple and straightforward fried chickenfingers combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries onthe side. $ L D f

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von AllmenCt., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded“gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East Endlocations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attractshordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf

ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 DixieHwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., ClarksvilleIN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain con quered Ohio and is now spreadingits franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its firstthree Louisville properties have gained popularityfor a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings.$ L D hpf

RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100,1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 288-5010. Ifsuccess demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s

600 international properties and 30,000 employeescan stand up with pride. They’ve been upholdingthe slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” inLouisville for a generation. $$ L D hp

THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eateryin just about every dimension, from its funky decorto its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array ofentertainment that bridges the generations fromGeneration X’ers to aging hippies. The owners arescaling back, though, and opening only on Fridaysand Saturdays. $ D hp

SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd.,Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander PointDr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Andersonhas been running his popular Southern Indianainsti tu tion for over 17 years now, feeding an armyof happy diners. You’ll find his extensive and childfriendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs.$$ L D hp

SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years,Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’stop choices for fast roadside dining, and happilythey’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D

SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutch mans Ln.,721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louis ville’soutposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant,these casual eateries offer the regional favorite(really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet)and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h

SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain locatedmostly in the West and the South now has twoKentucky locations serving made-to-order Angusbeef burgers, and is looking to open up to fourmore locations. $ L D f



STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109,2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 FischerPark Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.,Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-foodchains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestryto an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics:quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakesserved, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h

SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270, 3941 Chenoweth Sq., 899-5655. InsideChicago Gyro and The Seafood Connection youwill find Sullivan grads Darnell Ferguson and RyanBryson offering an ambitious morning menuincluding beignets and coffee, granola-encrustedFrench toast, red velvet pancakes and peanut butterand jelly oatmeal. $ B f

TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder,formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own servingfunky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market.But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of EdwardLee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the oldToast on Market space to continue his explorationof everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-madetortillas packed with ingredients ranging fromtraditional to the unique — duck, lamb andchorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf

TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S, Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live),585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie andcongregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries onits party atmosphere tradi tion with American bistrodining and libations. The bill of fare ranges frombaskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées.$$ L D hpf

THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave.,409-5409.Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textilemill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweakedlunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especiallyfond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich,grilled and topped with Jack cheese and theirspecial sauce. Art on the walls is from friends atMellwood Art Center, where owners Amy andWilliam Enix initially started. $ Br L

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099,141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. Thislocal breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyalfollowing and tremendous word-of-mouth, andopened a second outlet across the river. Theoriginal NuLu location has moved out of the funky,cavernous old theater building to the formerArtemisia a few doors west. $ B Br L pf

TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999.Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with adown-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, avariety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp

TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd.,451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig”is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’reenjoying it while venturing out on a leisurelySunday morning or heading home very late on aSaturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, fillingbite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Anotherwings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U ofL fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wingsthat range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf

ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080,807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln.,632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN,725-7484. They have been all around us out in thestate, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana havetheir own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutensits menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz,wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd.,897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refugefor years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search oftraditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub,honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L Dh

BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway,772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitableplace in the West End to get genuine soul food. Adifferent main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as bakedchicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish… and fried chicken every day. $ L D

CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. Youcan whiff a scent of Louisville history coming offthe old walls of this quintessential Germantownsaloon, along with years of frying grease. The barfood here is about as good as bar food gets, andthat’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup areparticularly recommended. $ L D pf

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, SellersburgIN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white framebuilding in rural Indiana is packed on weekendnights as families from throughout the area wait ondelectable fried chicken. This is the very heart ofAmerican comfort food, including green beans,dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy,crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is theprimary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 244-9497. This nostalgic old house in the countrysideoffers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an arrayof lunch specials that range from homemade soupsand sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L

COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtimeneighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright newlook, and continues happily doling out the kind ofexcellent down-home food it has served for morethan 70 years. $ L D

D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves tothis classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hoursare sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, greenbeans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard placeto beat. $ B L D

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main CrossSt., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D

DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 PoplarLevel Rd., 384-7685. $$ L D

FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. Thenewest incarnation in the corner space at Fifth andChestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish,rib tips, pork chops (grilled, smothered, or fried),sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, andfried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D

FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 DixieHwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria— including politicians and national entertainers —are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve upSouthern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices.Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, friedchicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D

FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. Thename “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighbor -hood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just whatyou’d expect in down-home comfort fare. Theword on the street, though, is simple: Go for thepancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D

GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004,8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St.,Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining— one price, all you can eat. Steaks are servedbeginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D

GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026.Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade byowner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinnerhere will remind you of a trip back in time toGrandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmotherwas a really good cook. $ B L D

HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or yourcheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the HazelwoodRestaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lotsof character and a low price. $ B L D

HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044,6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves upnostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts thatallow you to set an all-American supper table withthe all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985,3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern ValleyRd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 MarketSt., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tinyWest End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vendsa variety of affordable soul food and barbecuespecialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h

KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013.$ L D h

KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispyfried chicken and fried catfish, as well as dailyAsian specialties. $ L

MIKE & MATT’S 2835 Holman Ln., Jeffersonville IN,590-1565. Good country cooking in the Amishtradition. Fried chicken, of course, but also moreinteresting dishes such as walleye, elk, quail andfrogs’ legs. Real mashed potatoes and made-from-scratch pies a specialty. $$ L D f



MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave.,759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You willfind traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods,such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s whitecheddar and tuna salad using the recipe fromStewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L

NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd.,384-6525. When you want home-style cooking,you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast allday, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like themeatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D

O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestylesteam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner,not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollysa Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L Dhp

SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. ThisSmoketown institution draws hungry locals as wellas celebrities in town hungry for the soul food oftheir youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbreadcooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chickenwings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley MaeBeard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D

WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.A track-side institution that has as much history asthe nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups,sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird“trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll callyou “hon.” $ B L

WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 583-0318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery storehouses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find asteam table loaded with exceptional comfort food.Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili.$ B L

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN,284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style diningdone well. They serve up the standard steam tablemeat-and-three menu items as good as any. Withthe Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D

THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gemhidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Homegrounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrificword-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastasare the mainstay of the menu, with a four-itemlunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f

CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National CityTower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety ofbuild-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar,and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and amonthly ethnic creation. $ L

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doinga brisk business on the steam tables since 1955,they attract customers from Butchertown’s truckloading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D

JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how tocook for folks missing their home table. Count onan attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L

LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., NewAlbany IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandsonof Southern Indiana catering king TommyLancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage withthis family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D

PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.,493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadillyoffers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimpdinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a fewethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seatlounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’sTown Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicatedto producing new works from Kentucky play wrightsand beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical actsfrom around the country. Food and beverage service,but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ Br D hpfe

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr.,Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing atDerby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in thedinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansivebuffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ L D pe

HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (FourthStreet Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next?How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” pianobar with two pianos and a sing-along concept?You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at FourthStreet Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe

INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.“Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family funhits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giantdining and entertainment venue. It’s not just forkids: an upscale menu in a signature dining roomis at the center of it all. $$ L D hp

JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’shas built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’swell-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce isgrown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf

MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. ThirdSt., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about anostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers



a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage alongscenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstownin vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reser va tions arestrongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., JeffersonvilleIN, 288-8882. $$ L D h

ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The localfavorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizzasauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wideselection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D

ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendlyneighborhood crowd with hefty subs and qualitypizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D

ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwichessuch as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italiansausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h

ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 945-1149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805.A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insiston getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h

BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as asimple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field hasmorphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13locations. $$ L D h

BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 935-5540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t beenrenovated in ages, the service can be surly at times,and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of itsthin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming backand talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h

BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave.,896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of

Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyn -cratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphouse-style menu of pastas and sandwiches along withaward-winning pies carves its own niche withbottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf

BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd.,261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for excep tionallyhigh quality pizza and other quick Italian-stylefare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies andgourmet-style specialties that have won awards innational competition. $$ L D hp

BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 BardstownRd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boom -bozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, andthe menu now extends into appetizers, sand wichesand pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlandslocation boasts one of the only “frost bars” in thearea — a refrigerated rail designed to keep yourbrew cool. $$ L D hpf

BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas tochowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h

CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizzabecame a trend when famous chefs gave this simpleItalian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditionalPacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translatesthis trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf

CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St.,Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venueon Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriverfrom Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learnedtheir pizza and beer at New Albanian BrewingCompany. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows inimpressive quality. $$ L D

CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza andowner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back inthe kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of

down town J’ville, serving up well crafted tradi -tional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h

CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza,with additional toppings placed over the cheese.The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adultstyle, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spicesand available with grown-up toppings like anchoviesand artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe

COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 742-8200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F,charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. Thedough rises for three days, making for a lighter,more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionally-sourced, with specialty concepts. Look for localcraft beers and house-made soups and salads inaddition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf

DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St.,635-7994. $$ L D h

DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424.The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthewsfinally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice,as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilledsandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and agood selection of domestic and import beers,including some BBC brews. $$ L D hpf

FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN,903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana,veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, havenamed their own pizzeria after their grandfather,Francis Xavier. In addition to hand-tossed thin-crust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wingsand breadsticks, and its owners are planning anine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D

FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551.$$ L D h

FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neigh bor -hood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot sliceof pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishesand salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly bikercrowd. $$ L D h

FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo,Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dimItalian-American mood and an all-you-can-eatpizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ L D h

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and coldbeer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kindBacon Cheese burger pizza. $$ L D h

IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L Dh

JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400.The Kansas City chain has opened its first loca tion inKentucky, in Norton Commons, offering New Yorkstyle pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D

JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L Dhp

KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$L D he

LA BOCCA PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds KnobsIN, 945-7711. Going northwest from I-265 youwill find the latest in pizza choices at La Bocca,which is Italian for “the mouth.” You can fill your“bocca” with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza,calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia!$$ L D p

LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) ThisDetroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share inthe ’90s, but business analysts say the companyknown for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal hasturned things around with a renewed commitmentto quality and service. $$ L D h

LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeriamakes good, fresh pizzas and Italian-American sand -wiches. $$$ L D hpf



LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just aboutevery street corner there, has been making inroadsin River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offerin its authentic form here. $$ L

MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN,246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun estab -lish ments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served forlunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h

MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 409-6874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. Thissmall pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts itsstoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of itsofferings such as magic mushroom soup and MauiWowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlettries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$L D p

MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., ClarksvilleIN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920.This Austin-based chain was one of the first nationalpizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, andquality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgroundsfor the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crustpizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ L D

MUCHO QUESO PIZZERIA 2208 Bardstown Rd.,479-1040. $$ L D h

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr.,New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizzain Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizzaonly tells half of this tasty story. NABC combinesthe fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerlyknown as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’sremarkable beer list, with more than 100 selectionsfrom around the world — plus locally brewed craftbeers — has won international awards. A pizza likethe famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoesand roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with aworld-class beer to wash it down. $$ L D h

OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 TaylorsvilleRd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700.This growing chain specializes in both thickChicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus animposing list of 110 beers from around the world.$$ L D hp

ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd.,454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W.Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massivepies loved for a generation, can now be scarfeddown near the new arena on Main, in addition toits High lands and Brownsboro Road locations.$$$$ L D hpf

PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” JohnSchnatter got into the pizza game as a SouthernIndiana high-school student in 1984 and has builthis business into a 3,000-restaurant internationalchain on the basis of a simple formula: traditionalpizza, made from quality ingredients in a straight -forward style. $ L D h

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D

PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Formerrestaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenbergcontinues to satisfy his Highlands customers with hiscrispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium,made in-house toppings. Take home an18-inchpies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, ormake a meal from the calzones, breadsticks andshort list of salads and desserts. $ L D h

PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644.Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurst -bourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York styletradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave.Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italiansausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D

PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN,945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 282-8286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone

oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where theingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L Dhpf

PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd.,721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based inIndianapolis opens its first Louisville property onShelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and otherItalian-American dishes are served in an attractivesetting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D

ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 690-8500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering forthe classic Italian subs and pizzas that you haveenjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get themquick and to go at this counter-service only branch inthe outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D hpf

ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jefferson villeIN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by goingback to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appella -tion, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with agrowing selection of craft and import beers and aselect choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoya pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana andsome hoppy draft. $ L D hpf

ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484.This Middletown pizzeria has been wowingcustomers for a while with its store-made crusts,and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go forthe Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D

SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700.Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the foodchoices in the Lyndon strip mall that also housesother ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf

SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 589-8686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtownstorefront offers good, standard pizza and otherfamiliar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hf

SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave.,Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf

SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 412-6205. $$ L D

SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665,2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 ShelbyvilleRd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. Thislocally-owned pizzeria, widely known for theirmassive pizza by the slice, has expanded into St.Matthews, and now downtown too. All four loca -tions are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesdaythrough Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza andreal Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h

STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN,288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicago-style pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare,with a performance stage ready for pro performersor karaoke. $$ L D

TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., NewAlbany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizza -maker moves across the river to fill the cravings ofHoosiers. $$$ D

UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 GrinsteadDr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at thecorner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luringsome commercial occupants. The first restaurant inthere is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’sSouthwest Grill. Order at the counter from a rangeof custom choices and your pizza gets delivered toyour table. $$ L D

VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A littleneigh borhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantownhas been serving up its signature pies to neighborsand commuters who pick up pies before they geton nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp

WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828,2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelby -ville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN,945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza)409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming



mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendlyneighbor hood feel at all five of its eateries. The piesare straightforward, made with ample toppings.“The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe

ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L Dhpf

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S.Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, goto a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpetshop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-dolist, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L

BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave.,365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamedbagel sandwiches and wraps, made with house-smoked and roasted meats. Look for funkysandwich names and desserts such as chocolate-covered bacon. $ B L D h

BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.The open flame at this counter-service dinerprovides the next best thing to a family cookout.Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance thenostalgic theme. $ L D

BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0200. Withoutlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings theirfresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley.A step up from fast food with large patties that canbe dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D

BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. BetweenChestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard,Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd withsoup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f

BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 618-1158. The bagel / deli sandwich chain has set upshop in the middle of St. Matthews, offeringanother quick breakfast and lunch option. Choosefrom bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins,panini, salads and soups. $ B L f

BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a realslice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoonat the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing.Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chowdown on burgers and break fast until the wee hours(the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is hometo a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a goodchance he’s sitting at their counter right now,recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h

BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. Thisfully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plusa well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilledbutcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f

CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. Thename of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bankbuilding might warrant a double-take, but its felinetheme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open forbreakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection ofsandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L

CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 895-7075. $ L D

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln.,895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nookinto a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handfulof diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunchesare available, but as the name implies, Danishpastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L

DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylishdeli offers another lunch and dinner option down -town. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’sHead meats and cheeses cut on the premises, withdining inside and on the patio; package beer andwine is also available. $ L D f

DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery is an insti tu tion. It

goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changedmuch. It opens early and stays open late and offersgood value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf

DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln.,426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels,as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagelswith an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs andcoffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches —subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L

DP UPDOGS 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 948-0768. The long-lived but now defunct Little Chefdiner at the corner of New Albany’s Market andBank Streets has a new life and identity. Stop in fora variety of wiener concoctions, or an ice creamsandwich. $ f

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St.,(Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bageland a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel,a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For thosewho don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups,salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at thisbranch of the national chain. $ B L f

THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as wellas the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or afresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off thelunch-only schedule. $ L

FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-3473. This national chain touts that they steamtheir meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subscarry out the Firehouse theme and the kids mealsinclude a little fire helmet. $ L D

FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-styledeli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italianhot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf

GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807,9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis &Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This smallbut growing local chain, founded by Steve andJill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune,specializes in health and nutrition supplements andvitamins. $ B L D

HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Beforeholidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts foryour own parties. In the off season, you sit downin the café and order generous, filling sandwichesmade from those same meats, served on rolls orcroissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soupand salads too. And cookies. $ L D

JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101,4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. HurstbournePkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanitesare lining up at its multiple locations for oversizesand wiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f

JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 ShelbyvilleRd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025,9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-stylesub shop with local faves that includes cheese,ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni andfixings. $ L D

JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550,4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 DutchmansLn., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.,425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, NewAlbany IN. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarks -ville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884,341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This nationalsandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of overstuffed subs that benefit from fresh qualityingredients. But what sets them apart from the restis their value — and they deliver. $ L D f

LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831.Another semi-national chain, covering mostly theSouth and Midwest, brings a selection of familiarsubs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville dinerseager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f

LIL’ CHEEZERS 938 Baxter Ave., 409-7424. The foodtruck specializing in sort-of upscale grilled cheesesandwiches has added a brick and mortar spot inthe Highlands. Its specialties include capresegrilled cheese (tomato and mozzarella) and a FancyPants that includes Brie, caramelized onions, appleand walnuts. $ L D hf

LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St.Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 509-3640. This appetizing operation offers genuineChicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmos -phere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Asecond location brings the Windy City fare toOkolona. $ L D f

LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. ALouisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips,hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly aneclectic specialty-food store but fans stand three-deep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. Andnext door is a comfortable place to have coffee andpastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f

MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smackdab in the middle of the Main Street historicdistrict, this fashionable deli lures the savvybusiness midday crowd. $ L

MAIN STREET CAFÉ 217 E. Main St., 992-8080.Offering sandwiches made from house-smoked andcured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanalfoods. $ B L f

MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 425-8900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 VeteransPkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St.(U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Empha sizing qualitycustomer service, this delicatessen ladles up suchsoups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along withcutting board favorites. They have a special waywith a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D

MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd.,458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popularHighlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtimeprevious owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in afew crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality,hand-made deli fare. A second location is now openin the YMCA downtown. $ L

NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton,this little outlet, inside Theater Square Market -place, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’sunique take on the bagel. $ B L

NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave.,895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhoodgathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks,coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises toits own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f

OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. Alittle piece of fast-food history remains on an urbanstreet corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of thenation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisville-based chain that spread across the nation in the’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemadeflavor are just as good as ever. $ L

PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (OxmoorMall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991,601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar LevelRd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., ClarksvilleIN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160.Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a



tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads,coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’soutlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f

PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 896-8918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119Shelby ville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd.,456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources forproduce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sand -wiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D

PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the EastCoast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen doesa brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D

POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 540-1100. The Chicago-based chain has set up shopalong the quick-lunch row just north of 4th StreetLive.The Louisville location is run by two escapeesfrom the financial services world who depended onChicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them throughgrueling trading sessions. $ L D

QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sand -wich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built tofight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, fromchili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L

RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd.,587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red”offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chickenbarbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian sidedishes, many made with locally sourced products.Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans haveto wait til spring. $ L f

SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunkydowntown breakfast and lunch place has goals ofserving more healthful — and tasty — choices.Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s,a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, cornsyrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clevernames — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mamawrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there arealso salads and daily soup specials. $ B L

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-8447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just onekind of sandwich — “The Original” — when itopened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971.Now this national chain vends a full selection ofdeli-style fare, with one significant improvementon the traditional deli: the servers are invariablypolite. $ B L D f

SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St.,384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retailmix at Norton Commons. In keeping with theVillage theme, the store will evoke the feel andambience of the old local grocery, in addition todoing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offeringfull to-go dinners. $ L D f

SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 893-5118. Another attractive East End storefront,Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviewsfor simple breakfast and lunch fare served infriendly surroundings. $ Br L f

SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soupkettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato,bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken anddumplings and more. At the cutting board they’llmake your meat, cheese and veggie sandwichesaccording to your custom design. $ L D

THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 NewLagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. This authentic New York-style deli occupiesthe rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of theHighlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths,you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and cornedbeef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel— even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075.The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub,keeps the store buzzing. An array of sand wiches,

salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunchmenu. $ L D

TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 581-9200. $ L

THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St.,367-8394. $ L

TOM+CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494. Louis -ville’s first outlet of the Cincinnati-based soup andsandwich chain fills the space once occupied byPenn Station Subs. Its hook is serving many varia -tions on grilled cheese sandwiches (including agrilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety)and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specialsaugment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f

W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd.,897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery

looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, butthe local boys do a better job, with huge burgers onmagisterial home-baked buns and a MetropolitanMuseum of toppings. $ L D h

WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (JewishHospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style withKentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will servein-house diners or take orders for deliveries.Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D

ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Anotherchain outlet downtown gives all the lawyersand government workers another choice forsoups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat,dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotatedaily. $ L D

B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN,951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, servedup as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked

baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirlointips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-outand catering available. $ L D f

BLUEGRASS BBQ 119 Saint Matthews Ave., 893-3111. Taking over the space vacated by theNeighborhood Café, this tiny BBQ joint in the heartof St. Matthews offers the usual smoked meats:pulled pork and brisket, chicken and ribs, and apanoply of side dishes. $ L D

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 BardstownRd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and agood helping of country hospitality, as it dishes outhearty portions of well-prepared and affordablesmoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few placesin Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ L D f

BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd.,426-6666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordabledinners. $ L D

DERBY CITY BBQ AND CATERING 2932 S. FourthSt., 690-4204. $ L D

DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 772-1277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get someBoss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels.Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers,pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and softserve cones. $ L D

FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way,493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN,282-3283. This franchise chain operation may bebased in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgiagas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheekfaux country decor. The important thing, though,is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine,hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf



FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0454. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the FrenchCulinary Institute, brings a modernist sensibility tothe age-old art of barbecue. He works out formulasfor brining times, and trusts the electronic circuitryof his high-tech smoker to keep the temps low andkeep the smoke from overwhelming he meats. Healso boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbonin southern Indiana. $ L D hpf

FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eatheartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, thatFire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local firedepartments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecueand country fixin’s stand comparison to the bestfirehouse cuisine. $ L D

FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 FrankfortAve., 895-3223. A neigh bor hood bar that welcomesall comers with some of the most notable ’cue intown. The burgoo and the baked beans rank assome of the best in the city and the pulled pork bythe pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf

HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. OwnerFrank Harley said “I found my calling, which is bar -be cue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken andbrisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce.A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D

JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 NewLagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionallygood Texas-style barbecue from a little woodenshack that looks just like a country BBQ jointshould. Highly recommended. $$ L D f

MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 DixieHwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New AlbanyIN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808.Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’sFeed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes localhonors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meatybaby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f

MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 BauerAve., 938-6262. The Okie owner of this new spotbrings Kansas City barbecue to St. Matthews. Knoton your bib for smoked ribs, brisket, chicken,pulled pork and all the standard sides. Lots of heftyparty packs perfect to-go options. $$ D f

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 ShepherdsvilleRd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house notfar from General Electric’s Appliance Park, thisLouisville relative of a famous Western Kentuckybarbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f

PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361.$ L D

PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 253-6740. This familiar old local brand, long a down -town fixture, now offers its smokey Texas barbecuein an East End industrial park just off the GeneSnyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ L D

RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. CatherineSt., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West Endlandmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery,offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribsthat rank with the city’s best. $ L D

RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Rightnext to the Water Tower, this little take-out onlyplace smokes brisket and pork: some days one sellsout, on other days the other. Winter hours are 11-6 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw anddrinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D

RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End familyknows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beatenpath for some folks but here you’ll find the bountyof secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd.,244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte anddinners. The small East End venue moves a lot ofpizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 363-3227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokesand serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribsand a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad)from an 1896 log house. House specialty ishickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturdaynights. $ L D fe

SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.“Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fillup on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and moreat this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f

SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422.This smokery on Bardstown Road just pastHurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs,pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, alongwith home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweetpotato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with acoconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p

SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. Thename “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s loca -tion in this legendary midtown neighborhood, whilesignaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fusedMemphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be foundhere. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains hisneighborhood spot also is about vegetarian foodand yard sales, and everything in the store is forsale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the saltshakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find liveentertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f

SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln.,491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fast-food chain, which also runs Olive Garden and RedLobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveysmore of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, butthe ribs are fine. $$ L D hp

TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 241-9227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 inCrestwood pleases fans with standard barbecuefare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well assmoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops.Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection ofgreen beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

30 RED SPORTS SALOON 9601 Newbridge Rd., 690-3050. Fern Creek gets a lively new sports bar — lotsof TVs — with Happy Hour specials on food anddrink, and solid bar food —— cheese quesadillasand mini-corn dogs, burgers, wings and fried fishsandwich. The Roulette Wheel is your choice ofthree appetizers, meant for sharing. $$ L D hp

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 409-9422. This recent addition to the Baxter corridor,offers bar food, luring both rockers and good ol’boys with a combination of rock and country andwestern in its music plan. $ L Dhpfe

BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322,5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St.,637-3737, 105 LaFollette Ct., 923-1316, 1450 VeteransPkwy., Jefferson ville IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley StationRd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515. If youthink your basic sports pub is only suitable for guysguzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’sputs the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering awhole some environment. $ L D hf

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 893-4487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The signout front says it all, and we might add “coolatmosphere” in praise of this small but friendlyButchertown oasis. $ L D hpf

THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First reno -vated in 1984, including the antique bar from the

old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from adecade-long hiatus serving wings and calamari,chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas.And beer. $$ L D hpfe

BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237Whitting ton Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant ownerand name sake Keith Brown used to host neighbor -hood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now hebrings the same sociable concept to his pub andeatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengalsfans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurst -bourne has to a Germantown neighborhoodsaloon. $ L D hpfe

BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 DixieHwy., 384-9131. New ownership has spiffed up thisShively outpost now offering honest bar food that’sreceiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried”grouper, burgers (including a Rueben burger),burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe

BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy.,935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd.,394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy.,Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar asa restaurant, this national franchise chain offerstasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trade -mark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf

BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 BeulahChurch Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports barand grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVsincluding a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D foot -ball viewing. A game room for kids, and plenty ofwings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe

CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W.Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Anotherpopular option at the striking down town Marriott,Champions provides a fun, casual dining alter na -tive with a Kentucky sports theme — and a galleryof big-screen televisions to keep the sports actionflowing as freely as the libations and upscale pubgrub. $$ L D hp

CHAMPPS AMERICANA 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620.The Fox & Hound sports bar concept wasn’t quiteworking at this Oxmoor location, so its Wichitaowners are trying another sports bar concept. Ifyou like “big, made-from-scratch burgers piled skyhigh, big selection of ice-cold beers and big … no,massive screens on the walls,” it’s your kind ofplace. $$$ L D hp

CLARK’S LYNDON VILLAGE PUB 813 Lyndon Ln.,290-7334. This sports bar-music venue highbredfeatures Clark, a guitarist himself, joining musicianson stage for frequent jam sessions. Daily bar specialsrun the gamut of wine, spirits and beer for sportsfans who also can catch games on its nine flat-screen TVs. In addition to the usual sliders andwings, the menu includes a fried bologna andbacon, egg and cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpfe

CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New AlbanyIN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., JeffersonvilleIN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. Atthis growing chain, you can get your wings dousedin an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicygarlic bar be cue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — ahabanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Alsobreaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches,appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave.,895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 895-7513. $ L Dhpfe

DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 SummitPlaza Dr.,384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hos -pi tality Group now has two Louisville outlets, thefirst in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthewsand the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beerson tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos,ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by



day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videosand a DJ. $$ L D hpf

FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700.Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beerselection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neigh -borhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’sopen until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in thecity. $$ L D hpf

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.Steam-table service featuring spaghetti andmeatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungrylunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunchspecialties are just as popular. $ L D p

GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since1924. Although dining is secondary to booze andsports here, the food goes well beyond mere pubgrub. $ L D hpfe

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A long -time gathering place for U of L students, facultyand fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north ofthe university campus offers a good variety of barmunchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare pluspizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for thesignature Granville Burger, widely reputed as oneof the best burgers in town. $ L D hp

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr.(Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the HiltonGarden Inn. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwichesare available for the casual diner; main entréesinclude New York strip, filet of salmon andmore. $ Br D pf

HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 BardstownRd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer andbar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but withformer Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm themenu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beercheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty,smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage,house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulledpork spring rolls are on their way to becominglegendary. $$ L D hpfe

HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908.The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche)have taken over this prime Clifton location, oncethe original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavernfare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork andbeer-butt chicken specialties, along with heftysandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden,and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Innoffers an array of pub grub, including burgers,chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf

HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 StrawberryLn., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casualdining and good things to drink all find theirnatural meeting place at this friendly neighbor -hood spot where hot wings and hoops reignsupreme. $ L D hpf

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 288-2100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyondpub grub to include an awesome smoke houseburger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, thatyou can just tap the end of the bone on your plate,and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf

JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 449-4940. $ B L D

JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030.This new bar and grill adds more life to anincreasingly busy New Albany downtown with liveentertainment every Friday and Saturday, a daily $1draft beer pick, a full menu including a daily $6Blue Plate Special (think comfort foods likeSalisbury steak and liver and onions), and an all-you-can-eat fish, fries and slaw choice. $$ L Dhpfe

THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN,283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon ofcasual, home cooking and tavern environment foryears. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fishbaskets, salads and desserts round out the menu.$ L D pe

MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Long-standing blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans wererelieved when the funky downtown space wasreopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville,who continue to offer great music and even betterbar food. $ L D hpe

NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 ChamberlainLn., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe

RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd.,690-5111. Another beer joint along the BardstownRoad corridor boasts more than 20 taps concernedon independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its

limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praisefor its wings. $$ L D hf

ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of theBuffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’sangle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick,hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost liketwo restaurants in one, Saints features both asmall, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger,happily boisterous main room with the look andfeel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe

SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337.Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digspull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and thewhole aura of haughty mystery. What you reallyneed when you locate the place is a desire toexplore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000different brews. $$ D h

THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount ParkDr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want ina sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptionsto all the pro and college sports networks, andhearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimpand salmon. $$$ L D hpf

THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St.,(Fourth Street Live) 568-1400. This Cordish-ownedspot has four bars — including one that opens outonto the street — plenty of TVs to catch everygame, and even a “stadium style sports mediaroom.” Chow down with the usual burgers,sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf

SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St.,584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, openlate on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers,sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmos phere.The decor includes a collection of old bicycleshanging from the ceiling, and amenities includeseveral video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp

SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth StreetLive) 585-4100. $$ L D hpfe

THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., (Mid CityMall) 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance totrack down this saloon on the back side of Mid-CityMall. When you do, you will find one of the city’sfriendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pourof drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t missthe chicken wings. $ D hpf

TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. ThisNashville-based chain, which took over the oldBrendan’s loca tion in the heart of St. Matthews hasa split personality: a family-friendly vibe during thelunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night withlive music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasseseverything you expect from bar grub: deep-friedhot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for theladies. $ L D hpfe



TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Wash ing -ton St., 618-4829. On the downslope along side theClark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons theadventurous into a space excavated out of the lostspace in the old whiskey warehouse. The reno va -tion boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as wellas a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. Themenu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers andsweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf

VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-4338. $ L D

WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally,now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wingsof course, and you can get them 9 different ways.$$ L D hp

ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon ofthe ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself atits original location in Germantown. The stylishtile front has been recreated anew, and chef JackTapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, withitems such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesameseed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crustedrib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight livemusic is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip lateinto the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St.,515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub.The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival,have worked out an ambitious rotating beerselection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen,with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf

APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave.,589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes,Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth have teamed up toopen a new brewery in Butchertown. Their tap -room, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, will serve up to10 of their concoctions. $ h

BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., NewAlbany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this off -shoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s NewAlbanian brewing empire has morphed intoAmerican bistro cuisine, with emphasis on freshand local ingredients, and daily fish specials.Devotees will still find steak frites and croquesmonsieurs et madames to go with the exceptionalbeer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelby -ville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007.More than just a brewpub. BBC’s manage ment givesequally serious attention to both cooking andbrewing, making this a great place to stop in forboth dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site nearthe new arena boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge.$$ L D hpfe

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 458-8727. Giving new meaning to the term “micro -brewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of thesmallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earningits crowds the old-fashioned way by providing verygood food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ L D hf

GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing nationalbrewery and restaurant chain has become ananchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty,brewing their characteristic German-style bottom-fermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners andSchwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pub-grub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on thepremises. $$$ Br L D hpf

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., NewAlbany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. Thesignage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises“Mediter ranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but themenu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys —kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades,tabbouleh. $ L D h

AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outletfor Arabian food, but one that goes beyond theusual. You can find long-braised lamb shank androasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish andspaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D

BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. Thislittle Somali café caters mostly to the Muslimcommunity settling in around Churchill Downs,offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foodssuch as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled eggin a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind ofAfrican Scotch egg. $ L D

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interestingethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international diningscene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalesecuisine from West Africa. $ L D h

FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 BardstownRd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “ModernNigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishesfrom North and Central African cultures. Samplegoat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a WestAfrican shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub ormoin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, aTunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegandishes are available as well. $$ L D

MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152.The name is an Arabic blessing or expression ofjoy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” Thislittle Buechel storefront is another example of theentre preneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in thiscase from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu isAfrican, the ambiance modest, the food spicy andtasty. $$ L D

QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 TaylorsvilleRd., 459-6301, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-5777. This authen -tic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection ofintriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety ofvegetarian selections as well as the traditional beefand chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made forsharing and eating with the fingers, but they’llgladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ L D

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New AlbanyIN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competentcookery and careful management that ensuresbuffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes thesebuffets a good choice among the growing crowd ofall-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D

ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998,3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D

AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinaryoversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as theforce behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, openspace with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commit -ment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it atop spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rearaffords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$L D hpf

BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, thisSoutheastern Louisville spot may not offer thetrendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for thefamiliar Cantonese-American standards. $ L D

CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Justwhat downtown needed — a Chinese buffet forquick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix ofCantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for thosewho need a little spice to fire them up to get backto work. $ L D

CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarks -ville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous,but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularlyrefreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, andproperly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it abovethe other places typical of the genre. $ L D

CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D

CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busyrestaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese andAmerican menu items. $ L D

CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not theposh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spotmay be one of the most popular eateries around theUniversity of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D

CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D

CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., JeffersonvilleIN, 284-5580. $ L D

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L Dh

CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D

CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D

CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D

DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-foodshopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragonhits on all cylinders, turning out con sis tently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ L D

DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766,6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St.,367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D

DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD

EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D

EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa ispresented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed tothe Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosamenu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here,including combination platters. $ L D hp

EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center,426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most note -worthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quartersare stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a formersuburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp

EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empresswas one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscaleCantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up tofancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp

FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L Dh

GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh

GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868.$$ L D

GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 TaylorBlvd., 368-1833. $ L D h

GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. ThisClifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-foodChinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competentlyprepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h



GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just aboutevery shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinesespot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz ofword-of-mouth publicity about its well-craftedChinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D

HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistenttrends in American dining, this hot table placeoffers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standardsushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlicsauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summermaki — it is all here. $$ L D

HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 NewAlbany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D

HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 367-8828. One of the many international eateries inIroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offersCantonese standards hot and fast and inexpen -sively. Check the daily specials for an occasionalintriguing item. $ L D h

HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L Dh

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palaceis a decent place for Chinese food at any time, butdon’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday,when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum(Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp

JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charmingAsian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurousside with more unusual authentic dishes from the“Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f

JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028.Housed in a good-looking dining room, high onChinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers astandard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with alarger-than-average selection of American dishes forthose who want something less exotic. $$ L D h

KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Anotherof the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-foodChinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiarstandards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h

LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modernand efficient in its East End shopping center loca -tion, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese;better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to thebill of fare. $$ L D

LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Smallbut charming, with white tablecloths and softChinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approvalwith fresh, competent cookery and courteous,friendly service that makes you feel like you’revisiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D

MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822.Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinesebuffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a fewAmerican-style items and sushi rolls. $ L D

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D

ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 CharlestownRd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chineseand Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots,donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice)set this airy restaurant apart from the horde ofother Asian spots. $ L D f

ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.New owners continue the tradition at this long-standing St. Matthews restaurant, featuring bothtraditional Chinese-American and now, authenticCantonese, menus. $ L D p

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area.This establishment is quite good with Lo MeinNoodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D

PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42.,228-6400. $ L D

PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville,IN 288-0774. The Pentagon even has one of the1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fastfood chains, and now Clarksville does too.Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken,Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honeywalnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D

PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 253-6777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot tablefare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinesecommunity, runs the kitchen. $ L D

QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D

RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 BreckinridgeLn., 499-7788. $ L D

ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D

SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833.$ L D

SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767.

Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test oftime, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatownstyle and well-made dishes, plus a few Thaispecialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D

TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 NortonCommons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant owned and operated byPaul and Amy Yang joins the small but growingcluster of businesses in the Norton Commonsvillage center. $$ L D h

WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h

WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Tradi -tional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, thispopular neighborhood establish ment has enjoyed asteady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (OxmoorMall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operatedOxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an

intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishesfrom all over Asia with fast-food efficiency andprices happily matched by sit-down restaurantquality and style. $ L D f

YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D

YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., JeffersonvilleIN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN,282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave.,894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers atasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare ofthis Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishesare affordable during the dinner hour and down -right cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D

TAMBAYAN KARAOKE BAR & FILIPINO RESTAU -RANT 9601 Newbridge Rd., 749-2727. $$ L D h

ARATA SUSHI 9207 US 42, 409-4880. Prospect getsa sleek sushi place, with crisp dark moderninterior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and afine selection of sakes. $$ L D p

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.This small room in St. Matthews houses this neigh -bor hood sushi spot where award-winning ChefYong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magicat the sushi bar. $ L D

BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311,Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.Adding international flair to its downtown neigh -bor hood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in


a storefront just across the street from the court -house. $$ L

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. MuhammadAli Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln.,426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serveshot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ L D

DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D

DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd.,632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious takeon fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at thispopular café at the corner of Bardstown Rd. andElmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menubuilds on traditional Japanese ingredients withunexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, andtacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf

FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp

FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 SpringhurstBlvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that youget to watch the chef at work. Put in your order,then sit back and sip your tea while the artistcreates edible delights. This suburban sushi bardoes the job well. $$ L D hp

HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber RidgeDr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting,and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialtieshave made this family run Prospect spot a worthyalternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L Dhp

HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To theleft is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right isHeart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” andentertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofu-making room. State-of-the-art equip ment fromTaiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohiointo soy milk and then coagulates and presses itinto tofu as you watch. $ L D

HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi bringshis artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grillin Westport Village. In addition to fine dining atthe bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms,Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a smallfish market. $$$ L D hp

ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339.This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originallya Benihana, offers similar delights, with the tradi -tional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Bestdeal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushinightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p

KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. FernCreek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generousrolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Fourlevels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, aswell as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 VeteransPkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S.Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. TraditionalJapanese dishes and sushi are available here, butlike most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grilltables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef showfor maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp

KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jefferson -ville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first seriousJapanese restaurant has been drawing crowds withits excep tional sushi bar, with skilled and friendlychefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tastybites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L Dp

MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040.Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Openfor lunch and dinner, the standard menu isbolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specialsinclude the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanesetoppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramennoodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h

MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 DupontCircle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse inthe popular restaurant ring in the BreckinridgeLane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor,entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations,and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf

OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 375-8766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Barhave opened this Japanese restaurant on PrestonHighway. $$ D h

OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. Thissmall, attractive and popular sushi spot hascontracted to a single location near Bowman Field.$$ L D h

OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501,426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standingClifton favorite also has a second locationdowntown, serving up sushi and other Japanesedishes in a bright and cheery environment to aloyal clientele. $$ L D

ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran,who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base withher Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp,elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoysmoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in aJapanese pit table in the back. Choose from aninternational selection of small plates. $ L D

SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar CenterWay, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant bringsthe “full-service” Japanese restaurant experienceto the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look forhibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with atradi tional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L Dhp

SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St.Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — directdescendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranksamong the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h

SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 BardstownRd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. Withits original location in the middle of BardstownRoad’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo hasestablished itself as one of the city’s top spots forsushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in abeautifully designed space in Theater Square offBroadway downtown. $$$ L D hp

SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln.,893-8901. The menu of this Japanese restaurantboasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, redbean and tempura ice cream, and a variety offlavored sakes. $$ L D h

SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylors -ville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality foodand service make it a pleasant dining destination.It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those whofind exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enoughto satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanesedinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp

STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jefferson -ville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi aroundthe area? Even Jeffersonville now has its ownsource of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, whichis drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of itsofferings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D

TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime KilnLn., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmos -phere and friendly in service, and most important,this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanesetreats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D

TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-0200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers agood show of knife skills and tableside grilling, aswell as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize

sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and thegrilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p

WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 BaxterAve., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with achef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions.Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta,salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with acitrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with whitewine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h

WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 BardstownRd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did notmolder long — this sushi and Asian fusion spot hasbeen pulling in intrigued customers who admirethe sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asianmenu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined withspecials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuan-style crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad Thai andcurries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oeschli Ave.,290-8900. This St. Matthews site behind the OldSears building housed several other restaurants, andnow the promise of Korean food in St. Matthewshas many ethnic food fans salivating. $ L D

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One ofthe city’s few restaurants devoted entirely toauthentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a specialtrip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicyalternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln.,456-9714. This little spot has been a secret sincethe ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into whatlooks like a diner in an office building, but pushpast the counter to the back room, where you’llfind generous heaps of really authentic Koreanfood for next to nothing. $$ L D h

SOORA KOREAN RESTAURANT 2840 Goose CreekRd., 339-5888. The big space on Goose Creek hasseen a lot of ethnic food service in the last fewyears — Latino, Turkish, and now Korean. If youare familiar with Korean foods, there will be little tosurprise you. Barbecues and bee bim bop. $$ L D

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. HurstbournePkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michigan-based East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,”building your own choice of ingredients and saucesfor the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf

GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 426-4945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants hasbeen steadily moving northward from its Dallashome base. At this suburban location just beyondthe Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one oftheir dozen “signature bowls” includingSzechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp,Mexican jalapeno and chipotle steak. Or designyour own from a choice of protein, vegetables,sauces and starches. $$ L D p

SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd.,493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. ThirteenthCentury Mongol warriors used to turn their steelshields to use as frying pans over the campfire,using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries theirspirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun,and the food is fine. $$ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St.,Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range ofwell-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s isthe eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thairestaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’sright up there with the top Thai places in NewYork, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D



SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on thegrowing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans,partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly.$$ L D

SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing isBurmese; his wife, a classically trained Thai chefhave built upon the popularity of their St.Matthews spot and opened a second location inMiddletown. Their menu of traditional Thaidishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredientsfrom their small home garden. $$ L D f

TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., NewAlbany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but thefolks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmos -phere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy theroom up into serene little chambers. The menu ofThai specialties is small — just a dozen or soentrées — but nicely executed and beautifullypresented. $ L D

THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815.You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner ofthe “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snowand her family offer a small but well-prepared selec -tion of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonableprices. $ L Df

THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’sfirst Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built aloyal audience over the years, perhaps respondingto its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s abit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D

THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part ofa regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simplebut well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the five-chile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D

THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. Theowner-host of this friendly, casual spot in CrescentHill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving toLouisville, and his experience shows. The warmthof his welcome — and the quality of the food —make Thai Taste special. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847.Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the betterVietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best ofany variety, particularly when value and price aretaken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food ismade with care and served with pride. $ L D

BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022. Thetraditional Vietnamese sandwich, based on thecolonial French paté-filled baguette, but with theaddition of Asian condiments, meets Americanfusion food in this imaginative sandwich shop.Seven versions of the sandwich, plus Asian tacosand rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamesecoffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned softdrinks. Or Coke products if you have to. $ L D

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chineseand pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, mightfinally wean Louisvillians from referring to hisbuilding as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot istrue, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service over -comes any language barrier, and prices are hardto beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditionalVietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Queprovides the lower Highlands with a dependable,economical Vietnamese menu that includes somedishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf

LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend

of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simplesetting that transcends an obviously low budgetwith style and grace. $ L D h

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. Thissmall St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant hasgained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for thepho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamesedishes. $ L D f

PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantlyserved, Pearl is the newest dining choice at HorseshoeCasino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese springrolls, pho, ginger and scallion fried lobster andcrispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South Endspot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are theproprietors. There’s some language barrier, but theowners are so friendly, and the food so good, that

it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare andinexpensive prices. $ L D

SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthewsdiners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asianfare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes areall choices on the menu. $$ L D h

SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. Viet -namese cuisine joins the choices for residents, withthis addition to the dining array at the newuniversity dorm and restaurant row at CardinalTowne (where Masterson’s used to be). $ L D h

VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.This little South End storefront is well worthseeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary,preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusualsubtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointedwith the quality of the food or service. $ L D h

ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114.Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found acombination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’sowner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulfulAsian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919.Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-ownedBosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the ownersand chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkansand picks up a few culinary additions from theirtime in Germany. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (BowmanField), 451-9020. This art deco spot makesstylish use of an historic 1920s airport building

to present elegant modern French cuisine. ChefAlexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’srefocus of the restaurant around a bistro menucontinues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe

GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln.,690-6001. This French bistro, run by French-Canadianchocolatiers, is expanding into a second WestportVillage location. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner,serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini,quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ L D

LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 410-2888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Ubertalented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classicFrench bistro fare with some modern twists, an ideathat keeps his little place packed with happy diners.$$$ B L D hpf

LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., NewAlbany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro


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extends the range of inter national dining optionsin New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman”Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine ofhis native southwest France. $$$$ D p

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The ownersof the Germantown watering hole Nachbar alsooperate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southerncomfort food influenced by the owners’ Germanand Euro pean heritage. Dreams of a microbrewerythere also dance in their heads; in the meantime,diners are satisfied with a large selection ofEuropean craft beers on tap. $$ L D h

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurst bournePkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong Germanheritage, Louisville is woefully short on authenticGerman restaurants, but this genuinely Germaniceatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne.Take care not to miss its former fast-food quartersjust off I-64 local access ramp. $$ D

GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177.Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here withtheir five kids in 1993, straight from North Rhine-Westphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle fromstrands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty Germanfare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with redcabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929.The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring tothe quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriatedHibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patronswith karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables anddart boards. $ D hpe

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E.Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidyis the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. fromCounty Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth asGuinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine asScotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building datesfrom 1859. $ Br L D pf

MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructedreplica of a modern urban Irish pub, MollyMalone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating anddrinking scene, has added a second, suburbanlocation. Both are as authentically Irish as theWearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe

MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. $ L D hpfe

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 BaxterAve., 589-7373. One of the most popular wateringholes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor.Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love itsaction. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roastbeef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’sgreat to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe

PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. Thisdowntown Irish bar was one of the first to open inthe Whiskey Row complex, anticipating the revivalof that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowdshave been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflectedbar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the ownershave rehabbed the funky underpinnings of theirbuilding into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar,”focusing on an aggressive Bourbon program andlive entertainment. $$ L D hpfe

RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth StreetLive) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authenticIrish experience,” this growing chain is ensconcedin a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in FourthStreet Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and goodfun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishingsfrom Ireland. $$$ L D hpfe

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 454-3919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (althoughit’s a fine neigh borhood tavern), Irish-accentedShenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimableselection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. CourtAve., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of thedining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville,Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners withhome-style Italian dishes. The owners also operateAdrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D

AMICI� 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfyingtraditional Tuscan dishes are served in thisinteresting — and supposedly haunted — OldLouisville building. Dine inside or on the romanticpatio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extracharge if the ghosts want to share your penne allaLorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf

ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd.,749-0444. Highland residents hankering forsimple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can findjust that in this Italian bistro. The menu offerswhat one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — atreason able prices. $$ L D hp

BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Anotherentry in the dining choices at Prospect Villageshopping center. This little family-run place, servingpasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishesis proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna andtheir 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at anattractive price. $$ L D hpfe

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessaryingredients: huge portions of excellent food servedwith flair and the Buca scene is fun, a consciousparody of the exuberant decor of family Italian-American restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp

CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. HurstbournePkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburbanshopping-center franchise eatery. This placedramatically exceeds expectations. From warmedbread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rateItalian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L Dhpf

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With bothits branches located in urban neighborhoods,Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any otherneighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisvilleneighborhood saloons, this one houses a familyItalian spot that wouldn’t be out of place inChicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p

DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela hasmade its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with amenu that harks back to the red-checked tableclothand Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Lookfor baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli,veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and yourchoice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f

THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St.,561-8871. $ L D

LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495.This addition to the dining explosion in New Albanyserves Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and riga -toni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaksthe New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf

LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in theShoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Con -ti nen tal food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ Df

MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr.394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continuesto serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas

and pizzas a comfortable approximation of a Tuscantrattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven givesa peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf

OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 581-1070. One of the original ventures of this nationalfirm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basicItalian family fare and dishes it out for surprisinglylow prices. $$ L D hp

THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 339-7190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 OuterLoop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., ClarksvilleIN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain,Olive Garden now operates more than 500 propertiesand bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant inthe casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapesand sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carrythe Italian theme. $$ L D hp

PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St.,584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty intothis bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunchesfeaturing hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads,red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchenswitches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D

PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchortrattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has beenserving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of thetables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe

QUATTRO 450 S. Fourth St., 618-1904. The short-lived Mozzaria has morphed into Quattro, whichsees the return of Bim Deitrich to the Louisvillescene. Josh Hillyard is the chef. $$ L D hpfe

ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville,IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.)

ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. HurstbournePkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at thiscasual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers,salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertainwhile creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp

SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545,4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400.Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers areprepared while you wait. $ L D

STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146,LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas andfine family-style Italian-American dishes make thiscasual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth aspecial trip out from the city. $$ L D

TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop,363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretchof the South End that hasn’t been over-served byrestaurants, this good-sized storefront near NewCut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstratesan expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced Italian-American fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listingunder Upscale Casual.)

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The nameevokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce andcandles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicksthat image up a notch. With a combination ofItalian standards and monthly menu updates, ChefJosh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suaveItalian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beefprogram has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955.Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella.But the renewed focus at this High lands standby istapas, in such variety that you can have anythingon the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next doorto the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, LaBodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-



style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originallyinvented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp

LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colom -bian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new tothe area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndon-arearestaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake,including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish.Look for plenty of beef on the menu, includinglengua, tongue. Friendly service and no languagebarrier. $$ L D p

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday ManorCenter, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St.Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba,Mojito quickly established its own identity as theEast End spot for Spanish-inspired small plateswith a global taste profile. Always crowded onweekends; no reservations, but call ahead to gethigh on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461.Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentinecooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cookedover charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes,like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the LittleItaly of Buenos Aires, hometown of ownerFrancisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892.With its broad array of Indian regional specialtiesincluding the requisite lunch buffet, this spot inThe Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise forits aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D

DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 BardstownRd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the samefamily that brings us Kashmir Restaurant andBombay Grocery in the Highlands, this additionbrings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare tothe Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in theEastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p

KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 BardstownRd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popularIndian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither poshnor expensive, and it produces an extensive menuof seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf

LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353.It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a formerQuizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such aslentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-batteredstuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb andvegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs.There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for thosewho want really fast service. $ L D f

SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurst -bourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek inappearance, modest in price, this restaurant hasbecome the patriarch of local Indian restaurants.With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range ofdinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D

SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd.,473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musicalinstrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitarfeatures a full Indian menu and an impressivelytasty buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for atiny new chain with four places in Tennessee andone in Alabama. $$ L D

TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focusedon Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a widerange of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes.Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunchbuffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. ClassicArabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a

cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes AlWatan a destination for lovers of fine MiddleEastern fare. $ L D

BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42,228-7776. A fran chisee of the popular Shiraz localmini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthyMediter ranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb,salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f

CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlandsdiners enjoy an eclectic and inter national menu atthe friendly corner place, with Southern friedcatfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediatejuxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, justabout 24/7. $ B L D hpf

THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This small Highlands spot is strategicallysituated to offer quick and affordable sustenancealong the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip.Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual,quick-service setting. $$ L D hf

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Rela -tively recent renovations and an expanded menuhave elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status,placing it well above the generic Middle Easterneatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while thefood and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f

MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100Preston Hwy., 363-7788. The owners of LittleJerusalem lost their lease on Taylor Blvd., andfound a new location in a former pizza joint out onPreston, which continues to grow its own inter -national restaurant row. Gyros, hummus, falafel —what one would expect, but done with attention todetails and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f

PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to theethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many“Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is

largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmasand hummus and flafel. $$ L D h

PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. ThisNear Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers asplendid mix of gyros, falafel and other pita-basedgoodies. $$ L D

PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After itsexpan sion more than doubled the space in thisonce-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition ofa few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, ofcourse. $ L D

PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchiseoperation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillingsinto a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesarpita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections,from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus andbaba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. AlthoughMajid Ghavami has sold his interest in his down -town Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and MimiDabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), whoare keeping on most of the staff and con tinuingwith the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duckfesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St.,585-1125. You can get standard American fare atthis welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, butwho’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizingArabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels andthe gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pitasandwich. $ L D f

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 FrankfortAve., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neigh borhood


OPEN: TuesWedThurs: 4–10pm • FriSat: 11:30am–11pm • Sun: Noon–10pm • Mon: CLOSED

5 0 2 / 2 9 0 - 2 3 9 0 • E i D E R D O W N G E R M A N T O W N . C O M

>

983 Goss Avenue

Food&Drink

m i n u t e s f r o m w h e r e y o u a r e

European+americancuisine

•seasonallyconsciousmenus•15 wines bythe glass•21 Beerson tap


storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its originallocation and expanded into a local mini-chain. Inall its locations, Shiraz shines with authen tic Persian(Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, finepitas and lavish bread. $ L D f

THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504State St., New Albany IN, (502) 276-5894. Choosefrom up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the tablewith friends at this first hookah bar in southernIndiana. Also on offer is a full bar and Americanpub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corndogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso tomunch on between puffs. $ L D hpe

ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 BardstownRd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is partof the draw in this upper Highlands eatery with aneclectic Middle Eastern menu. Excellent gyros andfriendly, sympathetic service kick it up a notchfrom other hummus joints. $ L D h

ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000,4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 LexingtonRd., 409-8963. This chain has been growingthrough out the South and Southwest, and now hasthree Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offerskabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pitasandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $L D

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 426 W. Jefferson St., 589-9245, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 PoplarLevel Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox hascreated a popular mini-chain serving hearty,affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing onexpansion, he is now back in the saddle and in thekitchen again, to the delight of his fans. Thedrunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f

JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320.Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare isthe draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayoufishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajunand Creole chow. $$ L D p

SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrangeRd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has broughthis Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experienceto the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration andrenovation were extensive, turning this Anchorageroadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant.Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute toPascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L Dhpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. Theflowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reachingout beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall,of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asadoto Okolona. $ L D

CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 409-4828. Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnicofferings in town, has another outlet in the busyupper Clifton/lower Crescent Hill dining core.Usimg local, seasonal food sources, the menu offersweekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/Central American food traditions. $$ L D pf

EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 PrestonHwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona.Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo,the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo(braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetablestew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas— a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D

EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way,493-4053. $ L D p

HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E.Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana

Blues’ exten sive Cuban menu has a few inter -national dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas.Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a fewdinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arrozcon pollo. $$ L D pfe

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959,12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste ofOld Havana, this bright, inviting and consistentlybusy Cuban restau rant has opened a secondlocation, in Middle town, in the strip mall locationformerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountifulservings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key Westor Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar,have earned Havana Rumba a place on our shortlist of local favorites. $$ L D pf

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd.,618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican withthis eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portionin a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch onwhile sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 DutchmansLn., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A down -town location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offeringfine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare inan inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f

EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarks -ville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h

EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.,Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growingMexican-American com munity has fostered ahappy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. ElCaporal bridges the gap between the Latino andAnglo communities. $ L D p

EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Earlyfans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between abakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much torave about: tacos and burritos made with thebakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, andquick, friendly service. $ B L D p

EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurst -bourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take onMexi can seafood cookery as is possible in land-locked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy prep ara tionsof marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p

EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S.Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp

EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. Thiscrowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offerscreative renditions of Mexican regional specialtiesthat make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The settingmay lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ FronteraGrill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar veinand does so nearly as well. $ L D pf

EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally ownedrestau rants have become a growing mini-chain,winning popularity on the basis of delicious andinexpensive Mexican fare in com fortablesurroundings. $ L D pf

EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. FormerlyEl Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up abit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well ofthe nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicier-than-usual queso. $$ L D p

EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 285-0109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has takenover the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and openedthis “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p

EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add ElTarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants runby Latinos and offering authentic Mexican foodand atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and

make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinaryadventure without compromise. $ L D p

EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272.A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins thechoices at this Hurstbourne shopping striplocation. All the expected menu items, as well assome more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 maressopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus;banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuletasabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf

EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 ShelbyvilleRd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurantsin the metro, El Toro earns our recom men dationfor food, service and environ ment. Tex-Mex dishesare fine, but save room for the authentic Mexicanseafood specialties. $ L D pf

ERNESTO’S 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291.One of the first of the locally-owned Mexicanrestaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains con sis tentlyreliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to fillingMexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s aworthy destination for good Mexican food andexcellent value. $ L D pfe

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr.,425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ L D p

GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823.Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba andMojitos, has graced the East End with his “creativeMexican” restaurant. The hyphenated nameemphasizes the menu’s exploration of differentmoles, and the creativity comes with modern twistson classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, forboth the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktailprogram designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$Br L D pe

LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bambaboasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It maybe Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery thatis more than it appears to be, and that goes for bothquality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish,it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fareand Latino flair. $ L D h

LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. One ofseveral new Mexican joints to open recently butwith a bit more interesting menu than some. Lookfor Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajitanachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas,taquitos and queso. $$ L D h

LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop,384-6427. $$ B L D

LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938.$LDf

LA PASADITA 245 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-7918. $ B L D

LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LDp

LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New AlbanyIN, 944-3620. Starting as a little walk-in space, thepopularity of La Rosita’s traditional Mexican food,offering some of the most vivid Latin flavors wehad encountered, led to a move to a huge, formerdepartment store space near the action in the NewAlbany downtown renaissance. $ B L D

LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588,5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 BlackistonMill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those whocrave genuine Mexican tacos, you want themconvenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes.These little places will certainly satisfy thosecravings. $ L D

LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. AsLouisville’s small but thriving Latino communitygrows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authenticMexico City-style dining experience at this tacoand gordita wagon that rolls up in the EastlandShopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundaysonly. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza




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Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual,and as friendly as can be. $ D hf

LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. Thistiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the foodis about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp orsoft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rollsturn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f

LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 HerrLn., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450.Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viableoption in Louisville, thanks to a growing immi -grant com mu nity. With fresh bar and blenderofferings, creative appetizers and comfortableseating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tastyMexican dishes good enough to lure us back againand again. $ L D pf

LOS MEZCALES 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-3466. A“family Mexican restaurant” on a strip with plentyof such to choose from. Serving huevos ranchero,burritos, chicken a la plancha and camarones a ladiabla. $ L D

MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. ChefBruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurantrenaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district.Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctivecuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula,before NuLu was fashionable. For the secondyear his Market Mondays promote locally-raisedpastured meats. $$ L D

MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $L D hp

MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexicaneateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal followingfor good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingualservice. $ L D pe

MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp

PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 DixieHwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food haveanother place to try, out along the wide, widehighway. You won’t find anything new here, butthey say it will be real. $ L D p

PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., NewAlbany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct.,Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah ChurchRd., 239-4646. $$ L D p

QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (13 locations). This chainoperation extends from Louisville to Frankfort andLexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out itscompetitors on variety and interesting salsas, plussizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f

RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners andgave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of thekitchen. His Mexican restaurant in the heart ofCrescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name andsome unique menu items, such as enchiladasverdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, andshrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty:scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, anda full bar. $ L D hpf

ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898.Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spoton Preston looks like another tacqueria but thespecialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it toanother level, juicy and succulent and roastedgolden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get anybetter than this. $ L D hp

SANTA FE 318 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-2595. $ L D

SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. Thistiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South Endstore front near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfywith genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fareat prices that will leave you plenty of change for anexacta bet at the races. $ L D

SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., ClarksvilleIN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd.,409-9565. These four Mexican-American eateriesare known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexicanfood, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, com -fortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe

SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN,292-0901. $$ L D p

SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 520 S. FourthSt., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St,. 583-5505. SaulGarcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems tohave a knack for finding hot locations to serve hissatisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museumrow before the museums were, took over theformer Raw space on the southern edge of the hotFourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiestlocation on Whiskey Row, a handsome reno va tionwith a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and abroader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf

TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded inWichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell wasborn in Southern California, The Taco Tico chainhas been gone from Louisville for more than adecade. Its happy return has been drawingremarkable crowds. $ L D

TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy.,969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos arethoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and theywill happily provide a menu with all the Englishtranslations written in. $ L D

YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN,903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to thisIndiana restaurant that offers standard Mexicancantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in bothAmerican and Mexican styles, and a few seafooddishes. $ L D hp

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 VeteransPkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas“unchain,” has two area loca tions, offering a com -pli men tary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in theback end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memo -rabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, andTex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. HurstbournePkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may bemore fast-food Mexican-American than authenticSouth-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly madefrom quality ingredients and comes in oversizeportions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D

SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln.,897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424.Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche thatfeatures gigantic burritos made to order. Now withtwo locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $L D f

TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See reviewunder Casual Dining)

TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR(15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican res tau -rant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become anarea favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired foodsuch as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquite-grilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each TumbleweedMargarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties anddozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations.Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagshipRiver Road location. $ L D hp

BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station,Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street intro -duced the Sunny Side to the joys of seriousespresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re notjust an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $

CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076.(See review under Bistro/Contemporary.)

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., NewAlbany IN, 981-2633. $ f

DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bards -town Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you wouldexpect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop excepta college near by. $ hf

EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad AliBlvd., 584-6886. $ fe

GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.,491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center,music lovers can find music-themed breakfastdishes to fortify them as they shop for instrumentsor practice their craft. $ e

HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (13 locations) With the absorption of the VINT outlets, HeineBros. asserts their dominance in the local brewingscene. The stores are always friendly andaffordable, with good coffee roasted on thepremises and a short list of pastries, desserts andpanini sand wiches. $ hfe

HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 451-4545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozyneighborhood coffee shop also functions as one ofLouisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy ahot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hotspot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf

THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike,Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., NewAlbany IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hotcoffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries,cakes and cookies. $ fe

JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton HealthcareBlvd., 339-4744, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677,1707 Bards town Rd., 384-3555. These casual spotsboasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned bookshop, with comfortable seating, a good selection ofpastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe

KING’S COFFEE 406 Popp Ave., Sellersburg IN, 748-9448. Sellersburg gets a taste of espresso, chai andexotic teas, along with fresh pastries. $

LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrangeRd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookiesmake for a perfect morning snack the English call“elevenses.” $ B L

MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867.$f

PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 218-0611.$

PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. Anotheraddition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district,this little coffee house with a difference serves break -fast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection ofvinyl records, which can be sampled in a listeningroom. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granolaparfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes ona baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherriesand blue cheese. $ f

QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129,327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St.,New Albany IN 590-3426. This local purveyor ofexcellent coffee and pro vider of amenable workingspaces has opened two new locations, in the new Uof L.student housing, and in the midst of the NuLuaction. $ f



RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000,901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911.The drive-through take-away joint (entrance offLexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, withan expanded menu and new cold-brewed icedcoffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on thepremises are also available at groceries. $

SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ fSMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located

on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this newcoffeehouse and sandwich shop gives more choiceto Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffeeplus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sitdown and puff on a hookah till 2 a.m. $ hf

SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd.,384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of thisfranchise coffeteria. $

STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ fSUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243,

306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St.,589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller usedto roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Theirfriends said they did it so well, they should turnpro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e

TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada PlazaHotel) 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shopjoins the food options at the Ramada Plaza ineastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find break -fast pastries such as Danishes and muffins alongwith the house-roasted coffees. $

TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $

VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Nowowned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location isthe only one that keeps the name that reflects theconcept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, aleand wine — will “have a vintage, an annual releasecycle.” $ f

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. CourtAve., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need some - thing for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied,count yourself lucky if the craving strikes whenyou’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indianaspot, with its good selection of homemade cakesand treats. $ f

ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave.,384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery inthe state caters to customers with dietary issuessuch as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies,brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all madewithout wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arriveearly, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmealcream pie cookie sells out. $

THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Notjust a fine bakery but a place where bakers learntheir business, this excellent establishment is partof the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’shard to beat the quality breads and pastries offeredhere to eat in or carry out. $

BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200,2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd.,452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B

CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. Thisjewel box shop serves up precious French pastries,quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. Thechef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connectionsmake for exquisite tastes. $ f

CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave.,561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano continues herchocolate explorations at her artsy shop int theButchertown Market building on Story Ave., Lookfor esoteric, but luscious, inven tive chocolateconfections such as beer flavored truffles andavocado soft-centers. $

COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd.,454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and bakedgoods made on the premises make this tinyHighlands spot a stylish place to stop and lingerover for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ hf

THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd.,409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlormade an immediate splash in its original WestportVillage location with its intriguing range of flavors(salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanutbutter butter), and is in the throes of expansion,into the historic building on Frankfort next to theold Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at theold Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf

COPPER CUPCAKE 10616 Meeting St., 708-2418.The goodies in this gourmet bakery in NortonCommons are baked by a California CulinaryAcademy graduate who touts using premiumingredients in her confections. On offer areseasonal breakfast breads, regular and filledcupcakes, cookies, whoopie pies and even peanutbutter woofers, bone-shaped crunchy chews for“man’s best friend.” $

THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 899-2970. You won’t need three guesses to name thespecialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, whichhas gained instant popularity for its wide variety ofmoist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $

DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr.,368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamesefamily, which makes perfect sense. Order Frenchpastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamesespecialties. Savory choices, such as pork patewrapped in choux pastry are also available. $

DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151.Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele sincethe 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting piesand tortes and designer cookies. $$

DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865.The first of two new franchises in the area (the otherwill be in the East End). You will find hot sandwichesas well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you needto get you going in the morning or to get you steadyenough to get home at night. $ B L h

THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live),409-7484.$

GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd.,423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved thegelato they ate as students in Italy that theyreturned there after graduating to study gelatomaking. Their popular store draws fans out toNorton Commons, though owners can often befound scooping cones and cups at special events.Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well.$ h

GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakerychain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changingselection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors— Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconutsnowball, and so on. $

GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurs -tbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 584-2437. The Heitzman family has been baking in theLouisville area since your great-aunt was a girlordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies,cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tastynostalgia for all who visit. $

HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd.,618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd.,326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606

Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston MillRd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave.,409-6100. $ L D hf

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St.,New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track,this down-homey bakery in a plain white buildingoffers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters andDanish that keeps the shop’s fans coming backagain and again. $ B

JASMIN BAKERY 3825 Bardstown Rd., 458-0013. This“European-style” bakery offers fresh breads androlls, as well as Eastern Mediterranean fare, such asgyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L

MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., ClarksvilleIN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyoneneeding a sweets fix. Come in for a line up forelaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies,cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need acake in the shape of an enchanted castle for yourlittle princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $

MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store,including such popular choices as the CinnamonCrumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B

NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. Thisold-school, family-owned bakery on the edge ofGermantown has a devoted following, drawn bydivine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from thenearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re asucker for over-the-top excess, try the carameldonut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B

PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. Aneighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy asit is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountainwith ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorfulcookies to be boxed. $ B

POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880.The first incarnation of this jokey concept did notquite work out, but new ownership is trying again,putting out good bakery products at reasonableprices. $ B

STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $

SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 BardstownRd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads ofloyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donutby mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, andeven little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B

SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., NewAlbany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southernIndiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goodsjust like your grandmother made. Its specialty:painted sugar cookies, with designs in whitechocolate that change with the seasons and holidays.Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B

SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008.Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm,has returned to its original Clifton neigh borhoodto provide elegant desserts as well as signaturevegetarian lunches. $$ hf

SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 449-1008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery.Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but itsrenown stems from the Presidential donut, acream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’sadmiration. $

WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., ClarksvilleIN, 284-2867. $ B




MAP INDEX

MAP INDEXMAP # DIRECTION PAGE #

DOWNTOWN 881 downtown louisville

NEAR EAST 892 highlands – crescent hill

NEAR EAST 903 st. matthews

SOUTH EAST 914 hikes point – buechel

EAST 925 hurstbourne – anchorage

EAST 936 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown

NORTH EAST 947 indian hills – westport

FAR NORTH EAST 948 westport rd. – gene snyder

NEW MAP NA9 under construction

NORTH EAST 9510 prospect

SOUTH EAST 9511 fern creek

SOUTH WEST 9612 shively – pleasure ridge

SOUTH 9713 old louisville – airport

INDIANA 9814 new albany – floyds knobs

INDIANA 9915 clarksville

INDIANA 9916 jeffersonville

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spring 2013 (vol. 39)

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