splicing instruction

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e y e s p l i c e 1 2 - s t r a n d C l a s s I I

Class II ropes are made in whole or part from any of the following high modulus fibers: Dyneema®, Vectran®, Technora®, and Zylon®.

The eye splice is used to place a permanent loop in the end of a rope, generally for attachment purposes to a fixed point. An eye is also used to form the rope around a thimble, which is used to protect the rope, especially when it is to be attached to a shackle, chain or wire rope.

This eye splice may be performed on new or used rope. This is an all- purpose splice technique designed for people who generally splice used rope as frequently as new rope. By following the procedure below, the splice can retain from 90% to 100% of average new rope strength and in used rope up to the same proportion of residual used rope strength.

1step

measurementTape end of line to be spliced and measure 1 tubular fid length (or 2 wire fid lengths because wire fids are half the length of tubular fids) from taped end of line and make Mark 1.

From Mark 1 measure 2 tubular fid lengths (or 4 wire fid lengths) and make Mark 2. Now form size of eye desired and make Mark 3.

Form size of eye desired

Mark 3

Mark 2

2 Fid

Mark 1

1 Fid

or

2 Wire Fids

Splice, loop, etc.

Three strands (or pairs of strands), right and left, pulled out and cut off

Mark 2Mark 1Retape end to stop unbraiding

2step From Mark 1, in the direction of the taped end of the line, mark every second right and left strand* for three strands.** Cut every marked strand and pull out of line (tape at end can cause resistance and may have to be removed in order to pull out cut strands).Tapered end will now have only 6 strands remaining (or 4 strands for an 8 strand braid). Tape tapered tail tightly to keep from unbraiding.

*Some rope diameters may have pairs of strands in right and left direction. In this case, treat the pairs of strands as a single strand, marking and cutting both in each direction as described above.

making taper

step3 Measure 3-1/2 tubular fid lengths (7 wire fid lengths), make Mark 4. Insert fid and tapered tail at Mark 3 and bring fid out at Mark 4. Pull fid and tapered tail out. Don’t let the line twist.

Bury ta il into standing part of l ine

Mark 3Mark 4Fid Mark 1

Mark 2

3-1/2 Fid Lengths

Tapered tail

Push

** 8 strand taper

Additional rope needed for splice: 3-1/2 fid lengths plus length of eye;

with thimble: 3-1/2 fid lengths plus 1/2 circ. in feet.


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4step Remove fid. Pull hard on tapered tail with one hand. With other hand, smooth bunched line towards eye splice until Marks 2 and 3 converge. Now, smooth the cover away from eye towards Mark 4. Mark the tapered tail where it emerges at Mark 4. Pull tail out several inches, cut tail off at an angle, so the angle cut ends at this mark. Then with both hands and weight of body, smooth cover slack to bury tail in standing part of the line.

f in ish ing Bury ing

5step

When finished, Mark 2 and Mark 3 should be at the same point in the vertex of the eye—which, yields eye size desired. To finish eye splice, the splice must be lock-stitched (procedure following).

to f in ish eye spl ice

Mark 3

Mark 2

Mark 4

Smooth

Tapered Tail

Standing part of rope

PullFirst Tighten... ...Then Smooth

Push

Hold Firmly Here

PullPull

e y e s p l i c e 1 2 - s t r a n d C l a s s I I

S t e p 4After completing Step 3, rotate spliced part of rope 90° and reinsert end A into spliced area in the same area and in the same fashion as in Steps 1, 2 and 3. The splice will now be stitched on two planes perpendicular to each other.

S t e p 5After stitching at least three complete stitches as in Step 3, extract both ends A and B together through the same opening in the braid. Tie them together with a square knot and reinsert back into braid.braid.

S t e p 1Pass stitching through spliced area near throat of eye as shown.

S t e p 2Reinsert as shown pulling snug but not tight.

S t e p 3Continue to reinsert as shown until you have at least 3 complete stitches.

lock st itch procedure

B

A

A

B

123

A

B

123A

B


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All slings use the same measurements

with proper size fid.

NOTE: These instructions are intended for use with Samson’s Tenex and Tenex-TEC (2 end per carrier Tenex). Published Whoopie Sling strengths are for Samson’s Tenex-TEC when spliced in accordance with these instructions.

Using these measurements do the Locked Brummel Splice. Directions are as follows...

1step

spl ic ing f ixed eye

1A Leave tail at full volume. Just cut end at an angle, then tape.

CUT LEngThS For SLingS:

1/2" 10' 30" to 48"

5/8" 12' 36" to 60"

3/4" 15' 42" to 72"

Rope Cut Sling Adjusts Size Length From/To

A B

1 Fid 1 Fid 1/2

Fid

Fid short section

1B Pass taped end through center of rope at Mark B. Do not bury Mark A, leave on entry side of standing rope.

A

B

1 Fi

d

A

Eye

1 Fid

B

1C Pass the opposite end through the center of the tail approximately 2 picks from where it exits the standing rope.

1D Close up Brummel.

1E To bury the tail into the standing end, make a mark approximately 2 picks from where the standing part passes through the tail (Mark C). This will be the tail entry point. From Mark C, measure down the stand-ing part 1 fid length and make Mark D. Insert fid and tapered tail at C and bring out at D. Remove fid and smooth the standing part out, which will bury the entire tail.

Mark D

1 Fid

Mark C (entry point)

whoopie sling 12-strand tenex & tenex-tec


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2 creat ing adjustable loopstep

2A2B Attach end of rope to a fid and pass the

fid and tail in at Mark E and out of Mark D.

Pull the tail end through the buried portion and leave the tail exposed.

From Mark D measure 1-1/4 fids and make Mark E.

CD

1-1/4Fids E

Fixed Eye

CD

1-1/4Fids E

Fixed Eye

Short section of fid

step3 back spl ic ing the end

3A Insert the end of the rope in at the 1/2 fid mark and out at the short section mark.

From the unspliced end of the rope, measure 1/2 fid then measure a fid short section. Use these marks to do a Back Splice as follows:

1/2 Fid

Short section of fid

1/2 Fid

3B Pull firmly on the tail until the “eye” completely closes.

3C Grasp the “butt” of the splice and milk back towards exit point.

3D Mark the tail at the exit point. Pull the tail out slightly and cut off at an angle.

COMPLETED WHOOPIE SLING

3E re-milk to bury tail.

Milk

whoopie sling 12-strand tenex & tenex-tec


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Lay ropes out and count 30 picks or crowns from end of both ropes. Tie string or tape securely at these points

GETT ING STARTED

E N D f o R E N D 8 - s t r a n d C l a s s I I


1step

2step Holding the end of the rope, note the pairs of strands going to the left. Mark these pairs. Mark the strands up to the string and continue to mark the strands for five (5) or more picks beyond the strings.

MARKING

Bitter end of rope Standing part of line

30 Crowns (Picks)

30 (Picks)

2 Picks

3stepRemove tape from end. Start unlaying strands in their respective pairs. It is important to keep them together. After they are separated into pairs up to the string, untwist the pairs. Tape the ends of pairs together with a taper as shown.

SEPARAT ING & TAP ING Pairs taped together

Layout ropes as shown:

4step It is important that the next steps of the procedure be followed carefully.

Marked L [1] Strands go between Marked R [1] StrandsUnmarked R [2] Strands go between Unmarked L [2] StrandsUnmarked L [3] Strands go between Unmarked R [3] StrandsMarked R [4] Strands go between Marked L [4] Strands

jo IN ING ThE PA IRSL4

L2

L3

R2

R4

R3

R1

L1

Additional rope needed for splice: length of 30 crowns x 2.


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E N D f o R E N D 8 - s t r a n d C l a s s I I

5 After the initial step has been completed, you should have some-thing that looks like the drawing at left. Marry the ropes as shown in Step 6. This part is preferably a two-person job. Cut the string that you previously tied at the splicing points of both ropes.

step

6step

7step

Keep the ropes together snuggly. Tie a piece of string tightly around the splicing point as shown at right.

Start your splice with a marked pair under an unmarked pair of strands. Now you can follow the same procedure as the eyesplice, but we suggest that you complete one (1) full tuck in one direction and then do a full tuck on the other side of the marriage. Pull everything tight before proceeding.

MARRy ThE RoPES

Complete splicing in both directions so that each side is finished off as per strand reduction sequence (steps 7-10) of the eye splice procedure.

f IN ISh ING ThE SPl IcE

String tied here

Page 2 of 2


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e y e s p l i c e 8 - s t r a n d C l a s s I I

Plaited rope is no more difficult to splice than 3-strand. It is made of 8-strands grouped in 4 pairs. 2 of these pairs turn to the left and 2 to the right. The illustrations show the 2 pairs turning to the left in white and the 2 pairs turning to the right in gray. They will be referred to as the “white” and “gray” pairs. Note: The gray pairs are diametrically opposite one another but at a 90-degree angle to the white pairs and vice-versa.



gett ing started E y E S i z E : The size of the eye is determined by bending the bitter end of the rope back over itself for a distance equal to the desired length of the eye plus a length of 30 pics (crowns).

p r E p a r a t i o n : If the rope which you are about to splice is all of one color, mark those pairs which turn to the right so that they will conform with the gray pairs in the illustrations. Count back a distance of 30 pics from the end and tie a string securely around the rope so it passes directly over the center of both pairs of gray strands. Place the knot so that it is directly on top of one of these pairs. It is important that this be tied securely to prevent slipping. Now, unlay the pairs of strands back to the string. Making sure not to mix, or twist them, tape the ends of the pairs together.


30 Crowns (Picks)

2 Crowns

2 Picks

1step

Hold of lay the rope so that the pairs of white strands are on top and bottom with a knot to the right as you look toward the end.

2step Bend the rope over to form the desired eye in such a way as to keep the knot inside the loop as shown in fig. A.

Now turn eye over, tuck the white pairs under the diametrically opposite gray pairs as shown in fig. B. Note that in fig. B the splice is turned over from fig. A. The white pairs to be tucked should follow the white pairs of the standing part and the gray to be tucked should follow the gray pairs of the standing part. The ends in the drawing have been numbered to help show their position as the tucks progress.

step3 Using the fid to make clearance and starting with the gray pairs, tuck them under the diametrically opposite white pairs as shown in fig. A. Make sure you do not disturb the lay of the pairs. Do not twist them so that the individual strands cross over one another in the pair.

4step

Fig. A

1

2

3

4

Standing part of line

Fig. B

4

1

3

Additional rope needed for splice: length of 30 crowns plus length of eye: with thimble: length of 30 crowns plus

1/2 circ. in feet.


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5step Now you have your eye with the first full tuck complete (a full tuck

means inserting all 4 pairs); pull all 4 ends down firmly. Starting with the gray pairs, take another full tuck. By starting with the gray pairs you avoid having to go under 2 pairs at once. Your splice should now look like fig. C, (which now lays on the same side as fig. A). From here on, you should have no difficulty completing the splice.

6step7step

Now starting with the gray pairs, make four more full tucks with each pair of strands.

Having completed 6 full tucks for each pair of stands, select the strand in each pair that is closest to the eye and tape it where it emerges from the tuck. Then cut off the taped strands as shown in fig. D.

Fig. D

2

3

1

4

Fig. D

2

3

1

4

e y e s p l i c e 8 - s t r a n d C l a s s I I

8step

9step

Now splice the remaining single strands just as before for another three full tucks. The splice should now appear as shown in fig. E, which will lay on the opposite side as shown in fig. D. Each single strand should now have three full tucks.

10step

The tapering process continues by reducing the volume of each remaining strand by half (count the number of yarns that comprise each strand and divide as evenly as possible). Select the divided half of each of the four strand yarns.

With the remaining four half-volume single strands, perform three full tucks. Tape the strands after they have been tucked and cut them off as done with previous strands.

Fig. F

2

41

3

Fig. E

2

3

1

4

Page 2 of 2


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Rope to chain splice 3-strand Class I

1step Getting Started: From one end of the rope, count back 16 crowns.

Tape this section. Unlay the rope up to the tape then tape the end of each strand. To avoid a twist in the finished splice, untwist the rope one-half turn between the pieces of tape.

pRepaRing the Rope

Class I ropes are made from any or all of the following fibers: olefin, polyester, or nylon.

Although the 3-strand splice is the most common splice, and simple to perform, technique is important to preserve splice strength. Take care that the tucks lie neatly; rope strength can be lost if the strands are twisted incorrectly.

1

2

3

Unlay the strands from the bitter end up to the taped section. Tape each individual strand at the bitter end, to prevent unraveling, and label each strand 1, 2 and 3.

Apply tape


16 crowns

Crown (1 pick)

Put end on rope

Additional rope needed for splice: length of 16 crowns.

2step Line up the rope to the last link of the chain so that the 2 strand is in the middle and the 1 and 3 are on either end. Take the 2 strand and pass it through one side of the chain link. Strands 1 and 3 are to pass through the chain link from the opposite side, staying on the outside of strand 2.

thReading the cha in

3stepBegin tucking the strands in an over one under one pattern, just as in a 3-strand Eye Splice.

beg in tuck ing stRands3

1

2

1

32

Page 1 of 2


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With strands 1 and 3 tucked once, (4A), turn splice over to tuck strand 2 (4B).

tuck ing the stRands4step 4A

4B

1

32

1

32

Rope to chain splice 3-strand Class I

Perform 4 more complete tucks with all 3 strands. Tighten tucks if necessary.

NOTE: This method of joining rope and chain is designed to minimize chafe between rope and chain, but as a matter of prudent seamanship, it should be checked regularly and remade if there is any evidence of wear.

5step

Front of finished splice.

Back of finished splice.

Page 2 of 2


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5

4

1

2

3

6

Page 1 of 2

Class I Deep Six ropes are made from any or all of the following fibers: olefin, polyester, or nylon.

The Deep Six construction requires a splicing technique different from other 6-strand braided ropes. The “tuck” procedure may be performed in the field on both new and used rope with a minimum of tools.


2 Individually tape each of the 6 strand ends at the end of the rope. After the ends are taped, unbraid the rope back to the point wrapped with tape in Step 1. Form the desired eye size using the tape wrapped around the rope as a reference mark. Mark the body of the rope at the point coinciding with the tape.

marking eye s izestep

1step

Lay out the rope and measure down from the end of the rope one fid length. At this point put one loose wrap of tape around the rope.

measurement

1 Fid Length

Fid Specifications: A fid lengthis equal to 7 times the rope

circumference.

step3 separating & placement of strandsLay out the rope to form an eye taking care there are no twists in the rope. 3 srands will be passed under the body of the rope. The 3 strands must be passed underneath the rope to the other side and 3 strands will remain adjacent to the rope.

deep siX eye splice 6-stranD


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5

After the 3 strands have been placed underneath the body of the rope you can start tucking the strands into the braid of the standing part of the rope. Begin by tucking strand 1 under the top left strand of braid and then tuck strand 4 under the top right strand of standing rope. One complete tuck consists of passing a strand under an individual strand in the braid and over one strand. Each strand is always tucked under the same line of braid so that the tucks progress straight down the body of the rope.

Be sure to maintain the original amount of twist in the strand as they are tucked.

Beg in tucks

step

6

Continue tucking individual strands (number 2 will go to the left of 1 and number 5 will go to the right of 4) until all 6 strands have been tucked. After one complete tuck has been made with each of the six strands, pull on each pair to remove any slack from the strands and snug-up the base of the eye.

removing slack from tuck

step 7step

Do three complete sets of tucks. Do not attempt to pull them so tight that they lay straight. It is desirable to leave the tucked strands with some twist in them so they have the necessary elongation when the rope is placed under load.

complete tuck ing procedureAfter completing the first 3 tucks, drop ½ of the yarns that make up the strand by cutting them. Leave enough of an end protruding so that the end does not slip back into the rope when the rope is loaded. Tape the remaining ½ volume strands and tuck for another set of 3 tucks

taper ing the spl ice

deep siX eye splice 6-stranD

4step

41

8step f in ish ing the spl iceOnce you have completed the last tucks, cut off the excess material and tape the ends. Leave enough of an end protruding so that the end does not slip back into the rope when the rope is loaded.


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DEEP SIX RoPE to chaIn SPlIcE 6-stranD

1step Getting Started: From one end of the rope,

measure back 1 tubular fid length. Tie securely at mark with 2-3 wraps of small twine.

Unlay the rope up to the mark then tape the end of each strand. Divide the six strands into two groups as shown.

PREPaRIng thE RoPE

Apply twine


1 fid length

Put End on Rope

2step

Pass the two groups through the last chain link in opposite direction as shown.

thREaDIng thE cha In

Unlay & D Iv IDE StRanDS

3step

Page 1 of 2

Pull gently on each strand group to draw the link close. Strands should be snug on link, but not too tight.

PUll & SEcURE StRanDS4step

Pass through link

Pass through link

PULL

PULL


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Starting with one strand group, make one tuck with each strand. A tuck consists of passing one strand under of the standing part of the rope. Adjacent strands should be tucked under adjacent rows of strands in the braid.

After the initial tuck, each tuck will consist of crossing over one strand, then under one strand, and will prog-ress straight down the axis of the rope. (Refer to eye splice instructions). Make an additional two tucks with each strand in this fashion.

Cut away half of the yarns in each strand and make an additional 3 tucks with each half-strand.

Trim all tails to a length approximately equal to the rope diameter.

Be sure to maintain the original twist level in the strands while performing the tucks.

Turn splice over and make one tuck each with the remaining three strands

tUck Ing thE StRanDS

cont InUE aDDIt Ional tUckS

cUt away half of StRanDS

tUck half StRanDS

6step

step8

7step

5step

Page 2 of 2

DEEP SIX RoPE to chaIn SPlIcE 6-stranD


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e y e s p l i c e 8 - s t r a n d C l a s s I

Plaited rope is no more difficult to splice than 3-strand. It is made of 8-strands grouped in 4 pairs. 2 of these pairs turn to the left and 2 to the right. The illustrations show the 2 pairs turning to the left in white and the 2 pairs turning to the right in gray. They will be referred to as the “white” and “gray” pairs. Note: The gray pairs are diametrically opposite one another but at a 90-degree angle to the white pairs and vice-versa.

Tools Required: A splicing fid or marlinspike, sharp knife or scissors, plastic or masking tape, marking pen, 10 inches of twine.

Class I ropes are made from any or all of the following fibers: olefin, polyester, or nylon.


gett ing started


20 crowns (picks)

2 crowns

2 Picks

E y E S i z E : The size of the eye is determined by bending the bitter end of the rope back over itself for a distance equal to the desired length of the eye plus a length of 20 picks (crowns).

p r E p a r a t i o n : If the rope which you are about to splice is all of one color, mark those pairs which turn to the right so that they will conform with the gray pairs in the illustrations. Count back a distance of 20 picks from the end and tie a string securely around the rope so it passes directly over the center of both pairs of gray strands. Place the knot so that it is directly on top of one of these pairs. It is important that this be tied securely to prevent slipping. Now, unlay the pairs of strands back to the string. Making sure not to mix, or twist them, tape the ends of the pairs together as shown in Fig. A.

Additional rope needed for splice: length of 20 crowns plus length of eye; with thimble: length of 20 crowns plus

1/2 circumference in feet.

Using the fid to make clearance and starting with the gray pairs, tuck them under the diametrically opposite white pairs as shown in Fig. A. Make sure you do not disturb the lay of the pairs. Do not twist them so that the individual strands cross over one another in the pair.

Bend the rope over to form the desired eye in such a way as to keep the knot inside the loop as shown in Fig. A.

Hold or lay the rope so that the pairs of white strands are on top and bottom with a knot to the right as you look toward the end.

Now turn eye over, tuck the white pairs under the diametrically opposite gray pairs as shown in Fig. B. Note that in Fig. B the splice is turned over from Fig. A. The white pairs to be tucked should follow the white pairs of the standing part and the gray to be tucked should follow the gray pairs of the standing part. The ends in the drawing have been numbered to help show their position as the tucks progress.

1step

2step

3step

4step

Fig. A

1

2

3

4


Fig. B

4

1

3

2

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e y e s p l i c e 8 - s t r a n d C l a s s I

Having completed the 3rd full tuck (or 4th or 5th if necessary) select the strand closest to the eye in each pair. Tape this strand close to where it emerges from the tuck and then cut off as shown in Fig. D.

Now starting with the gray pairs, take at least one more full tuck. With a very soft rope, it may be necessary to take a 4th or 5th full tuck.

Now you have your eye with the first full tuck complete (a full tuck means inserting all 4 pairs); pull all 4 ends down firmly. Starting with the gray pairs, take another full tuck. By starting with the gray pairs you avoid having to go under 2 pairs at once. Your splice should now look like Fig. C, (showing same side as Fig. A). From here on, you should have no difficulty completing the splice.

5step

6step

7step

Fig. C

4

1

3

2

1

Fig. D

2

3

4

A more professional appearance may be achieved by cutting the ends off flush and then taping or whipping the entire splice.

Tape first and then cut off the 4 single stands as shown in Fig. F. The 8 ends may be heated and fused so they will not fray; however, take great caution to be certain that you fuse on the ends and do not damage the strands.

Now, splice your remaining single strands just as before for another full tuck. The splice should now appear as shown in Fig. E (showing side opposite that shown in Fig. D).8step

10step

9step

Fig. E

2

3

1

4 Fig. F

2

43

pagE 2 of 2

Technical Bulletin

www.samsonrope.com | Email [email protected] | Tel +1.360.384.4669

Stretch

Published date: November 2005

Initi

al L

engt

h 30

ft.

Load

ed L

engt

h 40

ft.

New

leng

th o

f rop

e

Afte

r elo

ngat

ion

32 ft

.

ELAS

TIC

ELO

NGAT

ION

Imm

edia

tely

reco

vera

ble

New RopeUnloaded

LoadApplied

LoadReleased

LoadReleased

AfterSeveral Hours

Severalhourslater...

HYST

ERES

ISRe

cove

rabl

e ov

er ti

me

PERMANENTELONGATION 2 ft.Non-recoverable

2 FT

.

3 ft.

Tota

l Str

etch

10

ft.

5 ft.

ELASTIC ELONGATION (E.E.): Refers to the portion of stretch or extension of a rope that is immediately recoverable after the load on the rope is released. This recoverable tendency is a primary result of the fiber (or fibers) used as opposed to the rope construction. Each type of synthetic fiber inherently displays a unique degree of elasticity. Relatively, HMPE fiber has an extremely low elasticity compared to nylon fiber.

HYSTERESIS: Refers to a recoverable portion of stretch or extension over a period of time after a load is released. In measuring elastic recovery it is the recovery that occurs immediately when a load is removed; thereafter, a remaining small percentage of elastic recovery will occur slowly and gradually over a period of hours or days. This retardation in recovery is measured on a length/time scale and is known as hysteresis or recovery over time.

PERMANENT EXTENSION (P.E.) WHILE WORKING: The amount of extension which exists when stress is removed but no time is given for hysteresis recovery. It includes the non-recoverable and hysteresis extension as one value and represents any increase in the length of a rope in a constant working situation, such as during repeated surges in towing or other similar cyclical operations.

The percentage of P.E. over the working load range is generally in order of four or six percent for braided ropes and two to three times as much for plaited. However, it will vary slightly with different fibers and rope constructions.

Allowances must be made for this factor in applications such as sub-surface mooring or when using devices that demand precise depth location and measurement.

PERMANENT EXTENSION (P.E.) AFTER RELAXED: That portion of extension which, due to construction deformation (compacting of braid and helical changes) and some plastic deformation of the yarn fibers, prevents the rope from returning to its original length.

CREEP (COLD FLOW): Fiber deformation (elongation) due to molecular slippage under a constant, static loading situation. Fibers with this inherent characteristic display extremely low or negligible creep if minor fluctuations occur in the rate and/or frequency of load levels. In rope form, this would apply to polypropylene, polyethylene and HMPE fibers.

COMPONENTS OF STRETCH ON A LOADED ROPE

ELONGATION (STRETCH)

Published Elastic Elongation Data: All reported percentages are averages based on tests of new rope stabilized from 200D2. Tested ropes are stabilized by being cycled 50 times at each stated percentage of its average break strength.

Getting StartedPlaited rope is no more difficult to splice than 3-strand. It is made of 8-strands grouped in 4 pairs. 2 of these pairs turn tothe left and 2 to the right. The illustrations show the 2 pairs turning to the left in white and the 2 pairs turning to the rightin gray. They will be referred to as the "white" and "gray" pairs. Note: The gray pairs are diametrically opposite one anotherbut at a 90-degree angle to the white pairs and vice-versa.

Tools Required: A splicing fid or marlinspike, sharp knife or scissors, plastic or masking tape, marking pen, 10-inches oftwine.

Eye Size: The size of the eyeis determined by bending thebitter end of the rope backover itself for a distance equalto the desired length of theeye plus a length of 10 picks(crowns).

Preparation: If the rope which you are about to splice is all of one color, mark those pairs which turn to the right so thatthey will conform with the gray pairs in the illustrations. Count back a distance of 20 pics from the end and tie a stringsecurely around the rope so it passes directly over the center of both pairs of gray strands. Place the knot so that it isdirectly on top of one of these pairs. It is important that this be tied securely to prevent slipping. Now, unlay thepairs of strands back to the string. Making sure not to mix, or twist them, tape the ends of the pairs togetheras shown in fig. A.

8-Strand Tuck Splice - Class 1

The eye splice is used to place a permanent loop in the end of a rope, generally forattachment purposes to a fixed point. An eye is also used to form the rope around athimble, which is used to protect the rope, especially when it is to be attached to ashackle, chain or wire rope.

This splice is in accordance with Cordage Institute instructions for use in "Standard Test Methods for Fiber Rope" STM 6/80. This provides for the required strength retention for 8-strand (plaited) synthetic fiber rope as given in the CordageInstitute Rope Specifications.

Step 3Using the fid to make clearance and starting with the gray pairs, tuck them under thediametrically opposite white pairs as shown in fig. A. Make sure you do notdisturb the lay of the pairs. Do not twist them so that theindividual strands cross over one another in the pair.

Step 2Bend the rope over to the desired eye in such a way as to keep the knot insidethe loop as shown in fig. A.

Step 1Hold or lay the rope so that the pairs of white strands are on top and bottomwith a knot to the right as you look toward the end.

Step 4Now turn eye over, tuck the white pairs under the diametricallyopposite gray pairs as shown in fig. B. Note that in fig. B the spliceis turned over from fig. A. The white pairs to be tucked should follow the white pairs of thestanding part and the gray to be tucked should follow the gray pairs of the standing part. Theends in the drawing have been numbered to help show their position as the tucks progress.

8-Strand Class 1 ropes are made from any or all of the following fibers: olefin, polyester, or nylon.

Step 10A more professional appearance may be achieved by cutting the ends off flushand then taping or whipping the entire splice.

Step 9Tape first and then cut off the 4 single stands asshown in fig. F. The 8 ends may be heated andfused so they will not fray; however, take greatcaution to be certain that you fuse on the endsand do not damage the strands.

Step 8Now, splice your remaining single strands just asbefore for another full tuck. Your splice should nowappear as shown in fig. E (showing side oppositethat shown in fig. D).

Step 7Having completedthe 3rd full tuck(or 4th or 5th ifnecessary) selectthe strandclosest to theeye in each pair.Tape this strandclose to where itemerges from the tuck and then cut off as shown in fig. D.

Step 6Now starting with the gray pairs, take at least onemore full tuck. With a very soft rope, it may benecessary to take a 4th or 5th full tuck.

Step 5Now you have your eye with the first full tuck complete (a full tuck means inserting all 4pairs); pull all 4 ends down firmly. Starting with the gray pairs, take another full tuck.By starting with the gray pairs you avoid having to go under 2 pairs at once. Yoursplice should now look like fig. C, (showing same side asfig. A). From here on, you should have no difficultycompleting the splice.

© 2003 Samson Rope Technologies - updated 3.3.04

www.samsonrope.com2090 Thornton Street / Ferndale, WA 98248

T. (800) 227-7673 / (360) 384-4669

F. (800) 299-9246 / (360) 384-0572


(T) 360.384.4669(F) 360.384.0572


SATURN-12 TUck-bURy Splice 12-strand

1step

meASURe ANd mARkTape end to be spliced. Then measure 2 fid lengths from the bitter end and mark. This is Mark 1. Wrap tape tightly around the rope at Mark 1.

1A From Mark 1, form a loop the size of the eye desired and mark. This is Mark 2.

1B From Mark 2, measure down the rope 2-1/4 fid lengths and mark. This is Mark 3.

2step At Mark 1, pull out half the strands (three “S” and three “Z”) by rotating around the rope, pulling out strands in the pattern shown:

Z strand = counterclockwise twist S strand = clockwise twist

This should leave 6 strands still braided down the middle. Tightly tape the ends of the 6 individual strands, and the end of the remaining braided portion.

2A On one side you should have two “S” strands and one “Z” strand and two “Z” strands and one “S” strand on the other side.

TAp eR The TA il

This is a modification to the standard HMPE Tuck-Bury 12-strand splice to increased splice length on Saturn-12. This modificaton must be used on Saturn-12 products over 1.5" in diameter.

sz

zsz

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2-1/4 Fids

2 Fids

Form size of eye desired

Mark 1

Mark 2Mark 3

Mark 1Mark 1Bitter End

Additional rope needed for splice: 2-1/2 fid lengths plus length of eye; with thimble: 2-1/2 fid lengths plus

1/2 circumference in feet.

Pass the 3 strands closest to Mark 2 through the rope at Mark 2. Do not pull strands all the way through at this stage.

bURy The TA il3step

3A

With all 6 strands that are still braided, start to bury them down the center of the rope, entering at Mark 2 and exiting at Mark 3. The tail should enter the standing part at the same point where the 3 strands pass through the rope. Pull the tail out until Marks 1 and 2 meet. Taper the end of the tail by cut-ting it across at a 45-degree angle.

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SATURN-12 TUck-bURy Splice 12-strand

Smooth the bunched line away from the eye.The braided portion of the tail should disappear into the standing part of the line.

3c

When the braided section is buried, make sure that the 3 strands that have been passed through the rope are all the way through,with no slack in the strands.

3d

4step

Do 5 complete tucks for all 6 strands. Each strand is always tucked under the same line of the braid so that the tucks progress straight down the body of the rope.

TUck The STRANdS

4A After completing the first 5 tucks, remove half of the length of the twisted yarns from each of the 6 strands near the taped ends and complete 3 more tucks with the shortened strands.

Start the tuck splice the same way as a standard tuck splice. One complete tuck consists of passing a strand over 1 strand and under 2 strands.

4B

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After completing the 2nd set of 3 tucks, cut off the excess material and tape the ends. Leave enough of an end protruding so that the end does not slip back into the rope when the rope is loaded.

F iN iSh The Spl ice

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THE TOOLS YOU WILL NEEDsharp knife, tape, marker pen and ruler (tape measure), polyester seizing thread (hollow braid), 5 mm diameter for ropes up to 5” circ., 6 mm dia for larger sizes, large needle.

DESCRIPTIONThis splice is made in a 7-strand rope with a cover-braided jacket. The jacket has to be removed in two places.start with marking the rope. The first mark should be placed at the end of the rope measuring back upwards for 45 times the diameter, place a mark here. Then mark the length of the eye, this part will stay on, and finally mark the splicing area, which should cover a length of 35 times the diameter of the rope.

Make sure the core is not damaged when removing the jacket.

strip the jacket of the first marked area of the outer cover (length approx. 45-times rope diameter) to expose the 7 strand core. Tape each of the 7-strands to keep yarns together.The part of the jacket covering the eye should remain in tacked.now strip the jacket of the splicing area (length approx. 35 times the rope diameter). bend the rope to form the eye and use tape or a whipping to keep the two rope parts together at the start point of the splice.

Read more on i-7 about starting the splice.

SPLICE INSTRUCTIONS FOR TIPTO WINCHLINE®

www.lankhorstropes.com

The master of innovation in ropes

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Starting the splice of Tipto Winchline®

First strand tuckfor the first tuck use strand 1, being closed to the running part and which does not disturb the rope construction. Tuck this strand under 3 strands (a,b,c) wiTh the lay of the rope (right hand lay).

Second strand tuckuse strand no. 2 and tuck this one under two strands (a and b) wiTh the lay of the rope.

Third strand tuckstrand no. 3 has to be tucked under strand (a) wiTh the lay of the rope.The core is now released.

Fourth strand tuckstrand no. 4 together with the core is tucked under one strand (f) wiTh the lay of the rope.

Fifth strand tuckstrand no. 5 is tucked under the following strand of the rope (E), wiTh the lay of the rope.

Sixth strand tuckstrand no. 6 is tucked under the remaining strand (d) wiTh the lay of the cable.

Second till eighth series of tucksEvery strand (starting with strand one) is tucked over one strand againsT the lay and under two strands wiTh the lay of the cable. The core is cut after the third tuck.

ThE splicE is now coMplETE.

COvERING THE SPLICEfirst start with securing the jacket to the core. stitch a large needle with thread through the jacket and core. The ends of the thread must be tucked back into the splice. do this at both ends of the formed eye as well as the start of the jacket after the splice. Ensure that at least 3 full tucks are made.

now cover the splicing area with a whipping. sometimes it is easier to first cover the splicing area with tape before starting with the whipping.

ThE RopE is now REady foR usE.



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Determination of splice length5 full braid length are required for the splice.form the eye and seize the end of the rope to the main body on the 6th full braid length.

Final preparationan 8 strand rope consists out of 4 left hand lay (s) and 4 right hand lay (z) strands. always keep the left (s) and right hand lay (z) strands apart (s) by (s) and (z). Tape each individual strand at the end in order to avoid untwisting. Then unlay the strands up to the point where the eye is formed and where the seizing is placed.

Starting the spliceTuck two s-lay strands under two z-lay strands of the body of the splice;

Tuck the first z-lay strand under the two preceding z-lay strands of the body. Tuck the second z-lay strand only under the first z-lay strand;

Tuck the third s-lay strand under the first s-lay strand of the body and tuck the 4th s-lay strand under the next s-lay strand of the body;

The third z-lay strand is tucked under the outer z-lay strand of the body and the fourth z-lay strand is tucked under the inner z-lay strand of the body;

we are back to the first two s-lay strands. Tuck the first s-lay strand under the outer s-lay strand of the body and tuck the second s-lay strand under the inner s-lay strand of the body.

all strands have now been tucked into the right position. Make sure that s-lay strands are tucked under s-lay strands of the body and that z-lay strands are tucked under the z-lay strands of the body;

continue with tucking two s-lay strands under s-lay strands and two z-lay strands under z-lay strands of the body;

Turn the rope and continue by tucking two s under s and two z under z;

continue until all strands are tucked 5 times.

To finalise; tuck the first s-lay strand under first s-lay strand of the body and the second s-lay strand under the second s-lay strand of the body.

do the same with the first two z-lay strands.

Turn the rope and repeat the steps with the remaining strands.

seize the out sticking strands in pairs and cut of the over length.

ThE splicE is now coMplETE!

SPLICE INSTRUCTIONS 8 STRAND PLAITED ROPES



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THE TOOLS YOU WILL NEED: sharp knife, tape and a spike

This splice is suitable for 12 strand ropes, braided one over one.

STARTa. start with measuring the length of the tail. it should at least be 12 full braiding pitches long. wrap a tape around rope at the start point of the splice (photo 1);

b. Tape the individual ends to keep yarns together. Then unlay the tail for the full 12 braiding pitches;

c. bend the rope to form the eye and add eye protection if required. a seizing or whipping may be used to keep two rope parts together at the start point of the splice;

d. divide the 12 strands into 6 pairs. 3 pairs of left hand lay and 3 pairs of right hand lay strands (photo 2).

SPLICINGnote: always tuck right hand lay strands under right hand lay strands and left under left.

a. Tuck from the first pair (1R right red), the 1st strand under 6 strands (2 right, 2 left, 2 right) of the body (photo 3);

b. Tuck the 2nd right hand strand from this pair under 5 strands (photo 4);

c. continue tucking these strands under resp. the same 5th and 6th right hand strand of the body. (over one, under one, over one) (photo 5);

d. both strands are tucked in the same way 3 times in total. only with the second strand a fourth tuck is made over one, under two (photo 6);

E. The second pair of strands (2l, left, grey), are tucked under the 4th and 3rd strand of the body (photo 7). continue here as well with tucking these strands over and under the same 4th and 3rd strand of the body. again, only the second strand is tucked for a fourth time over one, under 2 (photo 8);

SPLICE INSTRUCTIONS TIPTO TWELvE®

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f. The third pair (3R, right, yellow), are tucked under resp. the 2nd and 1st strand of the

body. Then follow the same procedure as described before (photo 9 + 10);

g. The fourth pair (4l, left, black), go under resp. the 1st and 2nd strands of the body

(calculated from the tucks made at f) Then follow same procedure (photo 11 + 12);

h. The fifth set (5R, right, white), are both tucked under one strand, then follow same

procedure (photo 13+14);

i. The last pair (6l, left, blue) are tucked under resp. 2 and 3 strands, then follow the

same procedure (photo 15+16);

j. The splice is now finished. Tape the two most close laying ends together (if the

procedure has been followed correctly then such a pair will consists out of a left

and right hand laid strand) and cut off the over length (photo 17).


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Mark 1: at 10 times the rope dia from end of rope.

Mark 2: at 45 times the rope dia from end of rope.

Mark 3: after forming desired eye length.

(Tapering the end by cutting strands over a length of 10 x rope dia, up to mark 1, may be performed before or after the inserting the end into the stranding part)

pull the full rope twice through the standing part of the rope and bury the tail into standing part of the rope by using a hollow splice pen. if the tail should still be tapered then let the end come out of the stan-ding part. Ensure the tall has been pulled deep enough to re-enter the standing part.

now ensure that mark 2 and 3 are again in place. Then hold the crotch of eye tight and pull back the cover over the inserted core.


QUICk SPLICE INSTRUCTIONS EURONEEMA®

Mark 1

Mark 2

Mark 3

form size of eye desired



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This pRocEduRE dEscRibEs ThE splicE bEing TucKEd 10 1/2 TiMEs

THE TOOLS YOU WILL NEED: sharp knife, tape and a spike

This splice is suitable for 12 strand ropes, braided one over one.

STARTa. start with measuring the length of the tail. it should be at least 22 braiding pitches long. wrap a tape around rope at the start point of the splice (photo 1);

b. Tape the individual ends to keep yarns together. Then unlay the tail for the full 22 braiding pitches;

c. bend the rope to form the eye and add eye protection if required. a seizing or whipping may be used to keep two rope parts together at the start point of the splice;

d. divide the 12 strands into 6 pairs: 3 pairs of left hand lay and 3 pairs of right hand lay strands (photo 2);

SPLICINGnote : always tuck right hand lay strands under right hand lay strands and left under left.

a. Tuck from the first pair (1R right yellow), the 1st strand under 6 strands (2 right, 2 left, 2 right) of the body (photo 3);

b. Tuck the 2nd right hand strand from this pair under 5 strands (photo 4);

c. continue tucking these strands under resp. the same 5th and 6th right hand strand of the body (over one, under one, over one)(photo 5);

SPLICE INSTRUCTIONS EURONEEMA®

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d. both strands are tucked in the same way 4 times in total;

E. The second pair of strands (2l, left, blue) are tucked under the 4th and 3rd strand of the body (photo 6). continue here as well with tucking these strands over and under the same 4th and 3rd strand of the body for 4 times in total (photo 7);

f. The third pair (3R, right, black), are tucked under resp. the 2nd and 1st strand of the body. Then follow the same procedure as described before (photo 8 + 9);

g. The fourth pair (4l, left, grey) go under resp. the 1st and 2nd strands of the body (calculated from the tucks made at f). Then follow the same procedure as described before (photo 10 + 11);

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h. The fifth set (5R, right, white) are both tucked under one strand, then follow the same procedure as described before (photo 12 + 13);

i. The last pair (6l, left, red) is tucked under resp. 2 and 3 strands, then follow the same procedure as described before (photo 14 + 15);

j. now we go back to the first pair of strands (1R, right, yellow). continue to tuck this strand under one, over one until 10 full tucks are made (photo 16);

K. To finish this pair the second strand is tucked also under the next strand, we call this Ω a tuck (photo 17);



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20 21 22

23 24

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l. continue with the second pair of strands (2l, left, blue) and tuck the strands until one has made 10 full tucks and the other has made 10 Ω tucks (photo 18 + 19);

M. continue with the third pair of strands (3R, right black) follow the same steps as described before (photo 20 + 21);

n. continue this procedure until all strands are tucked into the body (photo 22 + 23 + 24);

o. The splice is now finished. Tape the two most close laying ends together (if the procedure has been followed correctly then it will consist out of a left and right hand laid strand) and cut off the over length (photo 25).


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RECOMMENDATIONS ON TOWING LINES

a few recommendations for the installation of synthetic towing lines on a winch.

Sufficient turns on the drum. The load on the towing line should not be transferred to the fixing point of the dead end of the rope on the drum. depending the friction coefficient, a minimum number of turns will be required on the drum. for Euroneema ropes (hMpE) the minimum is 10 full turns, on Euroflex and strongline (polyester based) a minimum of 6 should be respected.

Back tensioning. The first time the rope is being spooled on the drum, this must be done with back tensioning on the rope. A load of 5-10% of the MBF should be sufficient. This will prevent slipping of the rope (due to elongation properties in the rope) and it will prevent the rope to burry into lower layers on the drum. (see picture 1)

Twist in the rope. unwind the new coil of rope from a turn table or from an elevated pallet connected to a crane wire with a turnbuckle. The rope should be installed onto the winch drum without any twists in the rope. please note that 2 turns in 1 meter of NEW rope, will result in a loss of MBF of easily 10% on a twelve strand rope and up to 25% in an eight strand rope. (see picture 2+3)

Cow Hitch. synthetic ropes can be connected to each other by means of a ‘cow hitch’. Tie a small rope or a webbing sling into the eyes to facilitate taking the cow hitch apart in a later stage. in case of using a grommet the abf will reduce. (see picture 4) Smooth path for the ropes. prepare the vessel in such way that all the contact points with the rope are as smooth as possible. polished stainless steel plating is commonly applied. low friction will minimize the abrasion on the rope and will reduce heat generation. (see picture 5)

Repairs on a jacket. Ropes with a non-load-bearing jacket should be repaired once the jacket has been damaged. preferably with a thin line, that has good abrasion resistance and that has good elongation properties (polyester / nylon). (see picture 6+7+8)

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WIRE ASSEMBLY

Nominal Diameter (mm)

89

1011121314161820222426283236404448525660

leg factork

Working load limits (t)

0.750.951.151.401.702.002.253.003.704.605.656.707.809.00

11.8015.0018.5022.5026.0031.5036.0042.00

1

1.051.301.602.002.302.803.154.205.206.507.809.40

11.0012.5016.5021.0026.0031.5037.0044.0050.0058.00

1.4

0.750.951.151.401.702.002.253.003.704.605.656.707.809.00

11.8015.0018.5022.5026.0031.5036.0042.00

1

1.552.002.403.003.554.154.806.307.809.80

11.8014.0016.5079.0025.0031.5039.0047.0055.0066.0076.0088.00

2.1

1.101.401.702.122.503.003.404.505.656.908.40

10.0011.5013.5017.5022.5028.0033.5040.0047.0054.0063.00

1.5

1.201.501.852.252.703.153.704.806.007.359.00

10.6012.5014.5019.0023.5030.0036.0042.0050.0058.0067.00

1.6

One leg sling Two leg sling Three and four leg sling Endless sling

Angle to thevertical

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0o to 45o Over 45o to 60o

0o

Direct Direct Direct Direct Direct Choke hitch

6x36WS+IWRC 1770 N/mm2

- Efficiency 0,90- Acc. EN-13414-1



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weight, length and diameter are measured in accordance with En 919. The breaking force of new, unused synthetic ropes, both standard and high performance, are in accordance with En 919. all data in this brochure is provided for technical reference and guidance only, it does not constitute a guarantee. lankhorst Ropes reserves the right to amend details of their specification in line with technical developments. for calculation purposes customers should consult the salespeople of lankhorst in-depth and up to date technical details.

it can be expected that the strength of the rope will decrease from the moment it is taken into service. at any time avoid using ropes that show signs of wear and abrasion. if in doubt contact the salespeople of lankhorst Ropes. we recommend taking the rope out of usage until possible repairs have been made or the rope has been rejected.

Joints and knots can cause loss of strength, in extreme cases up to 50%. When ropes are running over pulleys orsheaves, one also should take care of proper d/d ratios as well as grooves. if in doubt about any of the mentioned actions, please contact our salespeople for details.

consTRucTions3 and 4 strand3 and 4 strand hawser laid constructions are easy to splice and have an excellent abrasion resistance.

8 strand plaitedA 100% torque balanced rope due to the 4 left and 4 right hand lay constructed strands. This construction does not kink, is easy to terminate and has a great abrasion resistance.

12 strand plaitedA 100% torque balanced rope due to the 6 left and 6 right hand lay constructed strands. This construction does not kink, is easy to terminate and has a great abrasion resistance.

Cover braidscover braided constructions can be offered with a variety of cores. in most cases the jacket (cover) does not contribute to the ropes strength. The non load bearing jacket provides a protection to the rope’s core, this being the strength member. if the jacket is damaged, this does not automatically mean loss of strength. The larger sizes of cover braids especially, will retain their breaking strength even if the jacket is completely abraded. our cover braids offer maximum strength at a minimal diameter and thus weight.

Extruded jacketsExtruded jackets can be provided upon request depending upon the application. however for certain application they are provided as standard, like for instance our tower guys (hpTg). in order to provide a die-electric strength member the rope core is surrounded by an abrasion and uv resistant, water proof jacket. Extruded jackets (pp,pE,pa,puR) normally provide a more abrasion resistant cover, but restrain the rope’s use due to less flexibility (higher stiffness).

SpecialitiesMany varieties on above constructions can be provided. plaited cores with braided jackets as well as extruded jackets can be supplied if the application demands a special design. lankhorst Ropes is not only able to design a rope, but is also able to engineer specialty terminations suited for your needs.

ROPE INFORMATION



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critical areas for examination and associated defects

1. Examine termination of rope at drum (c,g)2. Examine for defective coiling, which causes deformations (flattened portions) and wear, which can be severe at cross over positions (g)3. Examine for wire breaks (a,e)4. Examine for corrosion (b)5. look for deformations caused by snatch loading (c,d) 6. Examine portion which winds over sheave for wire breaks and wear (a,e,f )7. points of attachment, check for wire break and corrosion. similarly, check section of rope which lies on or adjacent to compensating sheaves (a,b)8. look for deformation (c,d,e,f )9. check rope diameter (b,e)10. Examine carefully length which runs through sheave block, particularly that length which lies on the sheave when the appliance is in a loaded condition (a,f )11. Examine for wire breaks or surface wear (a,e,f )12. Examine for corrosion (b)

STEELWIRE ROPE INSPECTION AND RETIREMENT CRITERIA

a) a wire rope that is repeatedly bended over sheaves will show fatigue breaks in individual wires. The breaks are square and can be seen on the picture alongside. This type of damage is related to items 2, 3, 6, 7, 10 and 11 in above drawing.



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in the table alongside one can see the number of broken wires over a length of 6d at which the wire rope is discarded. see for detailed and exact data iso 4309.

when sheaves are too small and heavy loads are applied, the wire rope could be heavily damaged. of most importance is to observe the rate of breaking of wires, a high rate indicates the wire rope will have to be replaced soon.

b) corrosion can be both internal and external. Reduction in diameter could be compensated by build up of rust. it is of utmost importance to examine the wire rope internally as well. corrosion may result that the shape of the wire rope is flattened because the core no longer supports the outer strands. with severe corrosion, the wire rope should be replaced (related to items 4,7,9 and 12 in drawing on page i-18).

c) sharp objects (related to items 1, 2, 5, 8 in drawing on page i-18) can da-mage the wire rope as shown. when the strands are damaged accordingly, the wire rope needs to be replaced. This type of damage can be avoided by adjusting proper bending radius.

another effect of bending over a sharp angle.

CONSTRUCTION

6x19s6x25sf6x26ws6x36ws6x41ws8x36ws19x7

ORDINARYLAY

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d) The core of a wire rope will be protruded when a shock load is applied to the wire rope. The wire rope can no longer be used (related to items 5 and 8 in drawing on page i-18).

e) wear of the wire rope can be determined by measuring the diameter (related to items 3, 6, 8, 9, 11 in drawing on page i-18). When reduction in diameter by internal exceeds 3% for non rotating wire ropes and 10% for other wire ropes, the wire rope shall be replaced. Even if no broken wires are visible. wear is promoted by a lack of lubrication. Even if no broken wires are visible, but the decrease in diameter exceeds 7%, the wire rope has to be replaced.

f ) when the wire rope went over the edge of a sheave,it is applied to a sharp bending (related to items 6, 8, 10, 11in drawing on page i-18). This can be prooved when the individual wires are examined and ar either broken as cup-cone breaks or shear breaks.

g) drum crushing results in a flattened wire rope. This is caused when the load applied to wind the wire rope is too high, the drum is too small or when multiple layered winding (related to items 1 and 2 in drawing on page i-18).

The guidelines above are intended to indicate possible cause of damage

and are not obsolete.



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inspEcTion of coRdagEbefore a length of rope is issued for use, the entire length, including eye splices and/or long splices should be inspected by a competent person. This examination should be undertaken to check the following:

inTERnal wEaR(diRT and gRiT)where ropes have been used in a gritty environment, sharp grit may penetrate into their centre. it is important to open the rope and examine between the strands to establish whether such damage is occurring. This examination must be undertaken very carefully to prevent buckling and distortion of the strands which may itself cause trouble at a later date. The presence of large quantities of fibre dust in the centre of the rope indicates that a replacement may be due. oil and grease deposits by themselves do not damage most rope materials. however they do trap dirt and grit and may make the rope difficult or unpleasant to handle.

ExTERnal wEaRsome types of ropes will develop a fur or pile on their surface as the result of dragging over rough surfaces. This is quite normal and will not cause weakening of the rope to any significant extent. Excessive wear is indicated by a major proportion of the cross sections of the yarns on the outside of the rope being removed. such wear usually is seen most clearly on the strand crowns, on the inside of eye splices, in particular underneath a rope thimble, if incorporated.

MEchanical daMagEalthough most external abrasion is localized, mechanical damage will always weaken a rope. The weakening will depend upon the severity of the damage. it must be remembered that mechanical damage, especially chafing, will always have a more drastic effect on smaller ropes than on the larger ropes.

cuTscuts require close examination to establish their depth, and hence how much of the rope’s cross section has been damaged. for jacketed ropes where the jacket is not load baring(e.g. Tipto-winchline), a cut that does not damage the core will probably not affect the strength. however core deformation or herniation could occur on subsequent use if the jacket is not repaired. also, cuts to jackets may cause adverse effects such as handling difficulties, inability to slide through fittings smoothly and exposing the core to grit.

flEx faTiguE – pullEys, RollERs, chocKs, faiRlEadsconstant bending of any type of rope causes internal and external fiber abrasion. This is frequently caused by running over pulleys. but other types of flexing such as frequent bending over a small radius surface(chock/fairlead) can also cause fatigue damage. flexing over fixed surfaces is often accompanied by surface wear, especially if sliding action is also present. wear will appear on the surface of the contact area. The fibers will become matted on the surface and/or glazed from heat build-up.

hocKlE, TwisT oR coRKscREwif too much twist is introduced into a hawser laid rope it will tend to hockle(kink). hockles that can not be turned back easily to restore the ropes integrity indicate severe damage. The same applies for the opposite, corkscrews, when restoring the rope back into its original structure is difficult or impossible the rope should be taken out of service. braided and plaited ropes should not display any twist and these ropes should not be used unless restored to normal appearance.

chEMical aTTacKdeterioration of cordage by chemicals is usually not the result of the rope having been contaminated by a chemical foreseen by the user. That is to say, ropes, which are used in known chemical environments usually, are supplied in a quality to offer the highest resistance to the conditions. Rather, frequently contamination occurs by accident from chemicals whose presence was not foreseen.

FIBRE ROPE INSPECTION AND RETIREMENT CRITERIA



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sunlighT daMagEultra-violet radiation from sunlight can cause brittle, weak outer rope yarns in polyolefin lines and strength deterioration in ropes from some other fibres.

ThERMal daMagEfriction of synthetic fibre ropes under high tension while rendering around bitts and winches, or while going through fairleads, can generate enough heat to melt or fuse fibres, yarns or strands together.The examination should determine whether any areas of fusion or carbonisation are present. if in doubt discard the rope.

wETTingnatural fibre ropes when wet or damp should not be left on the ground as in this way the germs of rot start. also particles of grit are picked up. Man-made fibre ropes although not affected by wet or damp are nevertheless liable to damage by particles of grit. all wet ropes should be hung up in freely circulating air and allowed to dry naturally. if this cannot be done the ropes should be loosely stacked on pieces of timber or any other suitable substance, clear of damp ground or sweating concrete. coils of new rope should be stacked in a similar manner. on no account should ropes be dried by any form of heat.

MildEwMildew does not attack man-made fibres although surface contamination may, under certain circumstances, provide a nutrient, which permits the growth of moulds. whilst these are unpleasant, they do not affect the strength of the rope. They may be removed by washing in water. The use of harsh detergents should be avoided. Mildew will attack natural fibre cordage if it is stored wet in stagnant air. The mould will live on the cellulose of the rope and in consequence a loss of strength will inevitably occur.

accEpTancE oR REjEcTionReaching a decision on whether the cordage is, or is not, fit for further use must be based on the conditions of the cordage, and what defects have been observed during the examination. The examination must only be undertaken by someone who is competent. in forming a decision, the examiner should adopt a fail-safe policy. if there is any doubt that the cordage may not sustain the stresses, which it is likely to have to bear, then it must not be used. Rope/yarn damage regardless of the percentage leads to strength loss. The attached discard criteria may describe a certain percentage after which the rope should be rejected. This percentage is valid for ropes in general service. for ropes used in critical applications the retirement criteria should be determined in cooperation between user and lankhorst Ropes and will/can vary upon application.

preferably a sample should be taken from the rope in order to determine the actual residual breaking strength of the rope. when this is not possible the attached criteria should be used in order to determine whether or not the rope should be taken out of service. in practice it has proven to be very difficult to estimate strength loss based upon visual inspection alone. The visual examination should therefore be carried out very conservatively.

finally, the user must take notice of the fact that even carefully used ropes will wear out if they receive sufficient use, and care should be taken to withdraw them from service before this time is reached rather than allowing them to continue in use until they fail.



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All unjacketed ropes • Rope suspected of being shock loaded in excess of wll • Exposure to excess temperature as specified for type of fibre • Abrasion on inside radius of eye, with bulk of surface yarns or strands reduced by 50% or more • Oil and Grease • Heavy surface fuzz-progressive • UV degradation, splinters on yarn surface

For braided cover ropes (jacked is not load baring) • cover jacket is damaged. determine core coverage and assess critically the coverage for particular application (core is undamaged). = jacket can not be repaired = jacket can be repaired • Core damage – pulled, cut, abraded, powdered or melted strands. • Herniation - core pokes through cover (sheath) which can not be massaged back into original structure.

For 3 strand hawser laid • > 10 % of fibres cut, fused or badly abraded (on rope or single strand within one lay length) • Powdering between adjacent strand contact surfaces • Hockles or backturns that can not be removed.

For 8 and 12 strand (braided) ropes • > 10 % of fibres cut, fused or badly abraded (on rope or single strand within one lay length) • Powdering between adjacent strand contact surfaces.

Thermal damage • The rope shows hard, melted, flattened areas • Melting or fusing affecting 20% or more of rope yarns • Short term exposure to temperature above fibre working temperature: polyolefins (incl. uhMpE) over 65ºc polyamide over 100ºc polyester over 100ºc Manila over 100ºc sisal over 100ºc aramid and hemp over 150ºc

Chemical exposure (very much depends on fibre)

GENERAL EvALUATION GUIDE

Resplice/ Repair(if localised) Retire

x x

x xwash in mild detergentx xremove source of abrasion x

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x

x x

x xx x

x x

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x xx x

x x x x x x

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splicing instruction

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