sparkling wines highlights of the year€¦ · sparkling wine of the year. it is a solid but...

11
Year 2 no.17 November-December 2012 Editor Lorenzo Ruggeri [email protected] ADV Director Franco Dammicco [email protected] Dealer Poster Pubblicità [email protected] Gambero Rosso Holding spa Via Enrico Fermi 161 00146 Rome (Italy) TRE BICCHIERI monthly news for wine professionals ® INTERNATIONAL Let’s say goodbye to the year 2012 with eight marvelous spumanti wines. We begin in the Dolomites, with TrentoDoc, the mountain bubbly, move on to the elegance of Franciacorta and a sensational blanc de noirs, then to the wonderful mouthfeel of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, the complexity of a great Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico and a praiseworthy Alta Langa. This selection will take us through the New Year’s Eve, and all are excellent choices for enhancing the flavors of celebratory meals, thanks to their ability to continuously refresh the palate. This is our way to wish you success and happiness in 2013. May you have many joyful occasions for drinking sparkling wines. Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD Asian events draw crowds WINE DRAMA IN TUSCANY Gianfranco Soldera loses 7 years of wine WINE NEWS from Singapore, Sardinia, and Armenia PAGE 3 PAGE 7 PAGE 9

Upload: others

Post on 29-Sep-2020

2 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

Year 2 no.17 November-December 2012

Editor Lorenzo [email protected]

ADV Director Franco Dammicco [email protected]

Dealer Poster Pubblicità[email protected]

Gambero Rosso Holding spa Via Enrico Fermi 161 00146 Rome (Italy)

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

EXE chianti manchette 66x61.pdf 1 11/12/12 13:39

TREBICCHIERImonthly news for wine professionals

®

INTERNATIONAL

Let ’s say goodbye to the year 2012 with eight marvelous spumanti wines. We begin in the Dolomites, with TrentoDoc, the mountain bubbly, move on to the elegance of Franciacorta and a sensational blanc de

noirs, then to the wonderful mouthfeel of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, the complexity of a great Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico and a praiseworthy Alta Langa. This selection will take us through the New Year’s Eve, and all are excellent choices for enhancing the flavors of celebratory meals, thanks to their ability to continuously refresh the palate. This is our way to wish you success and happiness in 2013. May you have many joyful occasions for drinking sparkling wines.

SparklingWines

Highlights of the Year

gamberorossoon the roadasian events draw crowds

wine drama in tuscanygianfranco soldera loses 7 years of wine

winenews fromsingapore,sardinia,andarmenia

page 3 page 7 page 9C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

EXE chianti piede 206x35.pdf 1 11/12/12 13:40

Page 2: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

we move precious commodities: yours.

www.ggor i.com

The advanced logistic solution for Wines & Spirits

cesarini sforza | Trento Aquila Reale Ris. 2005A logo, tied to the identity of the territory it represents: the eagle is

the symbol of the city of Trento and the Trentino region. Cesarini Sforza is one of the top houses for Trentino’s spumante classico. Let’s look first at Aquila Reale, Gambero Rosso’s Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous flavorful drinkability along with soft, velvety verve. Only great wines display all this.

ca’ del bosco | Anna Maria Clementi Rosé 2004The Ca’del Bosco winery enjoys over 150 hectares of vineyard in prestigious positions and an ultra-modern winemaking facility, a sort of contemporary art gallery. The level of the cuvée and of its wines is impeccable, as we see in the Franciacorta Extra Brut Rosé Annamaria Clementi’04 which won our top award. It has a lively pink color with coppery h igh l ights , a complex, rich nose, and a sumptuous palate of great depth. An excellent Pinot Nero in Chardonnay territory.

monsupello | OP Classese 2006With Classese, we are in the presence of a Metodo Classico of quite a different style, even if the Monsupello approach always

brings together full body and major acidity. The influence of the Oltrepò zone is felt in the preponderance of pinot nero over chardonnay. Classese is a rich, almost opulent wine, achieved without special effects of heavy dosage. A minimal use of wood enriches the bouquet wh i l e ma in ta in ing env iab le freshness: altogether the result is a very satisfying spumante.

cavalleri | Franciacorta Pas dosé 2007The success of this winery is due to the Cavalleri family and to their wonderfully competent staff. Pas Dosé ’07 can hold its own next to the more important cuvées of the house (and other houses as well). It has a brilliant greenish straw-yellow color, complex aromas of yeast and bread crust, a rich and creamy palate sustained by excellent acidity and a very long and pure finish. It’s one of the best Franciacorta we’ve tasted over the last years.

serafino | Alta Langa Zero 2006Two Alta Langa labels from Enrico Serafino winery –a project devoted

to launching Piedmontese spumante – managed to attain top positions in the restricted club of premium Italian sparkling wines. The work done by the technical team, coordinated by Lorenzo Barbero and cellar master Paolo Giacosa, has proved to be praiseworthy. Alta Langa Zero 2006 is both powerful and elegant, touched with sensations of warm bread and toasted hazelnut: it is a great spumante to serve at mealtime.

nino Franco | Valdobbiadene Brut V. della Riva di S. Floriano 2011Nino Franco is one of the standard bearers of Prosecco in the world. His production never compromises with the marketplace and always aims for maximum quality. Try the Riva di San Floriano, a Brut that has a distinctively fruity, immediate and fragrant impact. On the palate, its richness is striking, along with its creamy bubbles and perfectly integrated acidity. Delicious.

ruggeri & c | Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Giustino B. 2011The Bisol family have produced a true champion of their denomi-nation. For those who love elegant sparkling wines, this is the bot-tle. Its aromas are delica-tely floral, with fruit present but not overwhelming. Bubbles caress the palate, accompanying the wine along its path, enlivened by fresh acidity and under-stated sweetness. You can never have enough of it.

Ferrari | Trento Perlé Nero 2006Ferrari - a name, a guarantee. A name that evokes dreams, stimulates thought, calls up the memory of flavors, leads to knowledge. Few wineries in Italy have managed to make a legendary spumante classico. We can’t describe Ferrari’s individual wines – all of them are jewels. So we’ll focus on what’s new: Perlè Nero, a ‘blanc de noirs’, made with

pinot nero grapes alone. This unrivalled bottle joins opulence to the freshness and vigor of an exuberant wine, with notes of fresh fruit, citrus tones, even incense, so well-amalgamated that we can only marvel.

Page 3: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

Gambero Rossoon the Road

Interest in wine is growing in Korea at a dizzying pace. Wine bars are opening everywhere, the range of labels available on the market is increasing, new wine-related courses and associations are springing up. An entire sizzling movement gathered for the Roadshow event at the Grand Hyatt, Seoul’s most elegant hotel, ideally located on Mount Namsan for an extraordinary view of the city. With its ten million inhabitants, almost twenty if you consider the entire metropolitan area, Seoul represents more than half of the wine-drinking market of South Korea. “I’ve never seen an initial approach to wine as systematic and professional as here. In proportion to the actua l d imensions of the wine phenomenon, I think there are more sommelier schools in Korea than anywhere else in the world,” commented Marco Sabellico, senior editor of the Vini d’Italia guide. “Korean tastes are very accustomed to all aspects of fermentation,” explains Micky Choi, wine columnist of Wine21.com. “We eat fermented foods – kimchi, for example - every day, so wine fits into this framework easily, and helps explain all the enthusiasm.” The culture of aging foods took us by surprise, and was an important part of seminars and interviews.

Japan’s third most populous city, Osaka, is traditionally considered the culinary capital of the country. “Osaka is for Japan what Naples is for Italy,” was the concept we heard from many of our interviewees during the first wine tasting organized by the Gambero in this city. Osakans have a cheerful, open manner, always ready with a witty remark: the greatest comedians in the country typically come from here. One of the iconic dishes of the city is takoyaki, octopus dumplings, found on every street. We visited the owner of Satoraita, a chain of five eating places in the city, and famous for one of the best versions of this popular snack. The name derives from tako, or octopus, and yaki, grilled.The Rite.A cast-iron griddle with half-spherical molds is an essential tool for making takoyaki. The batter is poured into the hot molds and deftly rotated with chopsticks. This manual dexterity, perfected over centuries, is the key to the success of this delicious specialty.First, the cook drizzles vegetable oil into the little rounded depressions in the hot grill. The batter is then added, a mixture of flour, eggs, baking powder and dashi (fish, algae and ginger broth). Then come bits of octopus, shrimp and optional ingredients such as green onions. When the under part of the dumpling is cooked, the cook turns it until the whole sphere is crispy and brown, a process that takes ten minutes. The dumplings are garnished with a sauce of vegetable broth, soy sauce, tomato, onion and aonori (green seaweed powder). A sprinkle of katsuobuschi, flakes of dried, fermented fish, adds c r u n c h , a n d J a p a n e s e mayonnaise is the finishing touch. These flavors combine for a balanced, rich, subtle, sweet and sour experience. In Osaka, the restaurateur explains, every family has at least one grill for preparing takoyaki.

Fermentation Fever. news From seoul

osaka’s glorious takoyaki

Here’s a brief account of our recent travels with Gambero Rosso. We accompanied the wine-tasting events with a television crew, and very soon these road stories will be shown on Gambero Rosso TV. We went from Seoul to the street food of Osaka, from the fish market in Tokyo to a tea house in Shanghai and the kingdom of dim sum in Hong Kong. Then we headed to M o s c o w a n d t e c h n i c a l approaches to pairing at the end of November. A final thank you to all for your extraordinary participation in our events.

gambero rosso’s ambassadors

sua eccellenza ItalIa 2012

Dominic nocerino

Vinifera import,USa

for introducing the best italian

producers and their bottles to the

american wine-drinker

celso la Pastina World Wine import

,

BraZil for the extraordi

nary work in

research and marketing of italian

products, both wine and food

Dmitriy FeDotov, rUSSia

for having created a bridge betwee

n

italian producers and the russian

public, thanks to his inexhaustibl

e

knowledge of the subject.

soPhie liu, CHina

for being the first journalist in

China to dedicate an entire volume

to italian wine, spotlighting even

lesser-known denominations

Jorge lucki, BraZil

for his work in communicating abou

t

italian wine through articles,

tastings and teaching. an

irreplaceable, critical voice that

expressed the values of the italia

n

wine-making culture.

Page 4: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

To know Tokyo better, we wandered around the stands in its celebrated fish market. Tsukiji is the largest fish market in the world, an immense structure that is buzzing by four in the morning and involves more than 65,000 people. Starting at four, an uninterrupted flow of trucks enters the market, followed by an army of workers in a violent hurry. They launch all the operations of transporting, storing and preparing, moving around the immense space on foot or in small, individual electric carts. Over 450 varieties of fish, many of them still alive and swimming in large tubs, have to find their way to the 1,600 stands. The market is divided into two principal sections, one internal, where wholesale dealings are carried out, and one where the retail sale of fish occurs. The star of the show is tuna. At the beginning of the day, the tuna are divided into groups and evaluated. Each fish is cut open, allowing buyers to judge its consistency, fat, and the quality of its meat. The underside, or belly, has the most prized meat, lighter in color and fattier than the rest. The tuna are laid out on the floor in an enormous warehouse, with frozen fish on one side – there are at least 200 in the room – and fresh on the other. At exactly five o’clock, the first bell rings the signal for the start of bargaining. In a few intense and spectacular minutes, all the fish are purchased, loaded onto tables and transported to market stands. Experts wielding long, traditional oroshi hocho blades, rapidly and expertly cut the tuna into pieces by hand in minutes, a dazzling show. Within seconds the pieces are on display on the stands. We buy some and taste exquisite tuna sashimi that melts in the mouth, sumptuous and flavorful.

the experience oF a liFetime,tsukiji Fish market

Few cities in the world offer such marked contrasts as Shanghai. The financial center has an incredible concentration of skyscrapers, banks and elegant restaurants where clients usually have western faces and speak english. Cross the Huangpu, move away from the Bund, the tourist-friendly area along the river, and you enter a different world. We aimed for Dongtai Road market, a little flea market, its stands laden with ceramics, baskets, and collector’s objets. We chose a boutique, Zhang Lingmu’s Tea (11 Dongtai Road). Zhang, its owner, offered us free tastes of the many varieties of tea on sale, ranging from udong that comes from the Fujian zone, to white tea with delicate hints of white pepper, to fruity Jasmine, black tea from Yunuan and one of the excellent selections of green tea from the Hangzhou area. It was a wonderful way to spend a slow, cloudy afternoon - on a unique sensory voyage. One bit of advice: bargain a little when finally buying your tea.

Hong Kong is one of the world capitals of street food. Perhaps only Bangkok can compete with the offerings of the one-time British colony that range from stinky tofu, to spits of calamari, meat and much more. The epicenter of street food is the neighborhood of Mongkok on the Kowloon peninsula. Here is a street restaurant that offers one of the most amazing value-for-price opportunities in the world. Be ready for a long wait, but rest assured, it’s worth it. Tim Ho Wan is the king of dim sum – those bite-sized dumplings often served in steamer baskets. In this place, you are given a list and can indicate which dim sum you want, and your selection will be brought to you. We liked the prawn-filled ones, the fragrance of the just-cooked shrimp framed by the raviolo-like dim sum wrapping. Baked barbecued pork buns balanced the hearty mixture of pork with the sweet and sour of the sauce. Rose petal gelatin was beautiful, sweet and delicate. We sat at a spartan but convivial table with other clients and spent less than ten dollars for our feast in a one-star Michelin restaurant. A few years ago, Tim Ho Wan opened a second location inside the international financial center of Hong Kong, adjacent to the train station.

Borsch is a soup that figures in many Eastern European cuisines. Each country has its version, which changes according to the season. In summer it is often served cold. The main ingredients are beets – which give it a vivid purple color – onions, carrots, beef broth, cabbage and lemon. The soup is usually topped with sour cream. It is a flavorful dish, and nutritionally complete. But what to pair with

it is a problem, almost insoluble. In Moscow we tried successfully to match it with a soft and

satisfying Lugana, Lugana Superiore Molceo 2010 made by Ottella, made

from a selection of late harvest turbiana grapes. The vegetal notes of the soup found echoes in the wine, enlivening a balanced and

very pleasant mouthful. A surprise.

tea in the old city oF shanghai

tim ho wan, the dim-sum king

borsch meets its match. in moscow

Page 5: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

Allegrini Experience in ShanghaiAllegrini brought Valpolicella to the heart of China. On November 4, 2012, Allegrini Estates presented their labels from Valpolicella during a delicious dinner in the famous restaurant SCENA in Shanghai. Located in the Ritz Carlton Hotel of Pudong, the restaurant has a

spectacular wiew over the richest and most densely populated city in China. Silvia Allegrini, co-owner of this famous winery, which in the past has earned Tre Bicchieri Awards from Gambero Rosso almost thirty times, was there to welcome her guests, among them the top ranking food and wine journalists of Shanghai. Executive Chef Riccardo La Perna is a brilliant young professional with a sterling career, having worked with famous chefs like Ciccio Sultano in Ragusa and Sadler in Milan. He designed an Italian menu that best showed off the great red wines of Allegrini. The wines were discussed by Marco Sabellico from Gambero Rosso, who commented on the pairings. One of the most successful matches was Tournedos Rossini, reinvented with wagyu beef, and La Poja 2007. Grace Zheng, a famous wine writer, commented: “It’s a really classy red, and the pairing with la Poja is as fascinating as Amarone and the Taleggio cheese we tasted.” Even more surprising was the combination of traditional Emilia-style lasagna and La Grola 2007, a red made of corvina grapes with a small amount of syrah, which offered full and well-defined character with crunchy sensations of red fruit. It paired well with the fatty notes of the meat and its sweet and creamy tannins resolved the challenging acidity of the tomato. A lovely surprise. At the end, Recioto della Valpolicella Giovanni Allegrini, dedicated to the founder of the winery, showed off its versatility. This rare sweet red wine was perfect with a chocolate tart, extending the aroma of cacao and enhancing the spicy profile of the wine. On other hand it was a good match even with the gorgonzola cheese, creating an intense and successful contrast. Try it to believe it. Riccardo La Perna Marco Sabellico

Jin Xuan Private Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong

© J

. Pat

rick

Fis

cher

Page 6: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

To us at Allegrini hospitality is the joy of welcoming into our vineyards and our cellars all enthusiasts and visitors who are interested in learning about, tasting and understanding our wines. Villa della Torre, the monumental 16th-century residence belonging to the Allegrini family, is the heart of these vocative places, where experiencing our wine becomes a discovery of excellence.

when wine excellencemeets the art of welcoming

ALLEGRINI ESTATES - Fumane Verona (Italy) - Tel + 39 045 6832011 - www.allegrini.it

Page 7: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

Cantina ValpoliCella negrar via Ca’ Salgari 2 - Negrar - Verona - ITALY - tel. +39045 601 43 00 - www.cantinanegrar.it

Cantina ValpoliCella negrar a mosaiC of men, territory and Wine

Follow us on

Drama in MontalcinoDuring the night between December 2 and 3, a criminal entered the wine cellars of the Case Basse winery in Montalcino

and emptied the barrels that contained Gianfranco Soldera’s entire production of the six vintage years 2007-2012. No bottles or other objects were disturbed. Over 600 hectoliters of wine about to become Brunello di Montalcino were lost, an enormous quantity for a small producer who releases 15,000 bottles annually, and an incalculable loss for passionate wine enthusiasts. Thanks to the investigations carried out by the Carabinieri of Siena and Montalcino, an arrest was soon made. The suspect is Andrea Diggisi, an ex-employee of the winery, who apparently acted in revenge for having been fired from his job.Fabrizio Bindocci, President of the Consorzio of Brunello di Montalcino expressed his complete solidarity and total condemnation

of the event. “This is a crime that hits all Brunello producers and the entire territory of Montalcino. The business community of Montalcino will not abandon a winery that has been hit so basely and so hard. We will support it in whatever way and at whatever time our friend Soldera finds suitable.” Meanwhile, the cynicism of the market became evident. Taking advantage of the destruction of more than 600 hectoliters of Brunello di Montalcino, the prices of the remaining bottles of the 2006 vintage, the last Case Basse labels on the market, are increasingly wildly. A restaurateur in New York may be able to find customers willing to pay even 1300 euros per bottle. Gianfranco Soldera, in its press release, condemns speculation on the price of its wines and suspended sales from December 3, 2012 to a date yet to be determined. The few bottles of 2006 found in Italy were removed from the market.

To appreciate a new Case Basse vintage we will have to wait until 2018. In the meantime, here is our review of the last vintage year: Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2006 Case Basse. After an initial stiffness, with evolved notes – but those lovely ones, those odors of wine cellar and mild cheese that are a prologue to something extraordinary and vital – the nose opens like a fan, showing a pure, fascinating panoply of spicy and floral notes capable of going well beyond the single components. A red and yellow nose, we could say, with the typical peach aroma of sangiovese from vintages years that tended to be warm, although here they are only hinted at and never invasive. Above all, an exceptional mouth that has to be described as digestible, dangerously easy to drink, with a superb iodine tone, only slightly disturbed by the tannin that is the signpost of this vintage year.

Page 8: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

There is no better metaphor than the Etna volcano todescribe Cantine Nicosia: an ancient and solid Sicilianwinery with a long history and ongoing commitment torenewal. Thanks to an ardent passion handed downfrom father to son for five generations, today theNicosia family company is one of the most importantSicilian wine producers with a well-defined productionphilosophy, which finds its highest expression in theEtna Rosso Fondo Filara.

Nicosia wines are a tribute to the heart of Sicily. Theyembody the light and warmth of its Mediterraneanclimate, the strength and generosity of its people, andthe untamed and exuberant character of that volcanothat has both a destructive and regenerative power atthe same time.

The Nicosia Family

Etna vineyards

WWW.CANTINENICOSIA.IT WEBSITE FOR U.S.A. WWW.NICOSIAWINES.COM

Page 9: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

David Taub, the man who introduced Pinot Grigio to American wine-drinkers, died in November at 72 of complications from a long-standing kidney disease. Born in Brooklyn, the co-founder of a wine-importing company, he changed the image of Italian wine in the United States. Before Taub, Italian wines were synonymous with two names, Chianti in its characteristic straw-covered flask, and Soave. Taub, who was a great expert on the Italian wines of the day, believed that the Pinot Grigio variety could be successful with the American public. He thought that its immediacy and easy drinkability would suit the market he wanted to reach. Taub convinced the Trentino winery, Cantina Viticoltori del Trentino, to change their name to something more easily remembered: they became Cavit. He then linked that name to one of the country’s most beloved television hosts of the day, Dick Cavett, through a charming series of advertisements. From zero, the imports from the Trentino winery soared to 500,000 cases, most of which was Pinot Grigio. David Taub’s insight reminds us how the world of wine is full of surprises, and how one man’s intuition can change the marketplace for everybody.

the wine world loses an innovator

Wine Advocate moves to Asia...

Sardinian wine and food looks outward

Robert Parker, the influential American wine critic, has just signed an important deal with some Singapore-based investors to sell a major stake of his company. amounting to $15 million. Parker’s newsletter will be edited from now on in Singapore

and directed by Lisa Perrotti-Brow. “She’ll assume all responsibilities for coordinating The Wine Advocate content, editing and proof-reading, things that I have found enormously time-consuming” said Robert Parker. He also thinks now it would be easier for The Wine Advocate to serve Asian countries from Singapore. The Wine Advocate spokeswoman also made it clear that “there are no plans to do away with the hard-copy edition. We are now simply offering subscribers a PDF option for those who wish to utilize it – by subscriber request.”

A long-established and p o p u l a r e v e n t dedicated to vin nouveau, or vini novelli, Vip Wine Sardegna, recently took place in Milis, a small town in the province of Oristano, in Sardinia. Something new was added this year. Besides featuring the popular new wines, as they have for 25 years, producers also presented classic local bottles along with top quality food products that are protected by the Dop, denominazione d’origine protetta, an Italian guarantee of authenticity. The event also featured restaurateurs, recognizing that it is they who work hard to spotlight and introduce the island region’s excellent products to the public. “It seemed opportune to

include, alongside the new wines which are famously appreciated by young wine drinkers, top quality bottles that a more experienced public demands.” The

program was rich and varied. The numerous wines presented included well-known varieties such as Cannonau and Vermentino di Sardegna as well as labels from Gallura, Cagliari, Carignano del Sulcis, Alghero and Sorso Sennori, plus two of the island’s most renowned wines, Vernaccia di Oristano and Malvasia di Bosa. A mini tasting course of Dop Sardinian cheeses, such as Pecorino Sardo and Fiore Sardo highlighted this traditional resource. Sardinian food and wine is livelier than ever.

An amazing discovery in a prehistoric grotto near the village of Areni in Armenia brought to light fermentation vessels, pressing vats, ceramic and clay containers and the remains of bunches of grapes – seeds and skins. The research, financed by the National Geographic Society and carried out by archaeologist Boris Gasparyan, uncovered what appears to be a cave for vinification, where the ancient vintners pressed the grapes with their feet. The liquid they obtained, after fermentation, was stored in clay jars in the fresh, dry environment of the grotto. Chemical analysis of the ceramic fragments has revealed traces of malvidin, a plant

p i g m e n t t h a t i s responsible for the color of the grape. The dig also indicates that 7,000 years ago grape vines were already domesticated. Evidence found at the site appears to confirm genetic studies conducted in the mountains of Armenia and Georgia. The grapes of Areni might have tasted similar to ancient varieties found in Georgia which appear to be the ancestors of Pinot nero. There are many puzzles still to unravel, but it seems certain that the production of wine was tied to religious funeral rites: the presence of about twenty tombs around the wine

caves suggesting that drinking the beverage played a role in commemorating the dead. Large-scale wine production, a hypothesis supported by finding this ancient equipment for vinification, demonstrates that this prehistoric population was advanced both technologically and socially. Wine became a source of food that transformed the nutritional, culinary and social history of humankind.

7,000-year-old wine foundin Armenian excavation

Page 10: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

wine buy oF the month

lugana sup. molceo 2010 ottella15,000 bottles | 12 euros (cellar price)

Francesco and Michele Montresor are highly respected producers in this small appellation along the southern shore of Lake Garda. The

winery itself is in San Benedetto di Lugana, facing Lake Frassino, but the vineyards for Lugana wines grow on clayey soil around the lake. Other vineyards on the hills of Ponti sul Mincio are dedicated to red berries. The land produces enough grapes for

the winery’s needs, and they are interpreted in a clean, fresh style. Lugana Superiore Molceo ‘10 is an excellent white wine made from a selection of turbiana grapes, an indigenous variety that is harvested late to concentrate its aromatic qualities, perfectly balanced by acidity. The wine displays fresh, appealing citrus and peach aromas, along with a mineral note. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, juicy and rich in savory notes, very pleasant and persistent. It is a white that can improve with time, its evolution a story in itself.

wine, Food & other Fun

sirmione. the joy of spas.If visiting wineries and eating in restaurants hasn’t fully satisfied your curiosity about this vast and interesting territory, or if you are simply looking for something extra special during your trip, we suggest a stop in Sirmione, and perhaps even a stay at the renowned Sirmione spa. Located on the southern shore of Lake Garda, the largest in Italy, the town features an historic thermal source, known since the Renaissance, called Bojola. When the spring was finally channeled and directed into many small outlets in 1896, the thermal waters became famous throughout Europe as a destination for relaxation and wellness. Hotels, artificial lakes, swimming pools and spas line the walkway adjacent to Lake Garda, offering tranquility to all who seek it in this corner of Lombardy, so richly blessed by nature.

...and where to drink it

ristorante la casa degli spiritiCostermano (Verona) www.casadeglispiriti.it

According to legend, this residence, long abandoned after some unnamed mysterious dark events, was haunted by ghosts. Today it is simply a beautiful building on Lake Garda, offering excellent food in an enchanting setting – ghost-free. Federico Chignola and his wife Sara manage their restaurant elegantly, with chef Marco Tozzi in the kitchen. While enjoying a beautiful view over the lake, you’ll eat a raw seafood platters or shrimp salad with peaches, celery, carrot, bergamot and fois gras. Then try basil ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms and scallops in a mild gorgonzola sauce, served with beets and honey. Next comes a mixed fry of vegetables and shrimps served with aromatic sauce, or beef fillet from Nebraska presented inside a crisp pastry cover and with a foie gras sauce. To close the meal, a memorable selection of cheeses or house-made sweets. Adequate wine cellar and the opportunity to pair different glasses with different dishes.

“who drinks more... the wine or music industry???”~ @RobertMParkerJr

“Apparently ‘I judge a wine by its alcohol content’ does not impress anyone at a sommelier convention.”~ @Carbosly

“Many many commiserations to Soldera re the vandalisation of last 5 vges of Case Basse Brunello. Shocking in so many ways”~ @Jancis Robinson

“Rule #1 when buying a Christmas tree...let another family member make the choice!”~ @Antonio Galloni

@twitter dixit

Page 11: Sparkling Wines Highlights of the Year€¦ · Sparkling Wine of the year. It is a solid but elegant Trento DOC, with seductive fragrances, citrusy notes of candied fruit, and a generous

2013

INTERNATIONAL EVENTS

worldtour

Gam

bero

Ros

so

trebicchieri

Official lOgistic Pasryner

INFO: [email protected] tel +39 06 55112234

Gambero Rosso

Vini d’Italia2013tour

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN jul aug sep OCT NOVCALENDAR 2013

TORONTO 5 june

15 januaryWARSAW

17 januaryCOPENHAGEN

ROMEoctober

25 novemberZURICH

TOKYO1 november

MOSCOW19 november

SAN FRANCISCO7 february

8 marchBANGKOK

11 marchSINGAPORE

TRE BICCHIERI ROADSHOW VINI D’ITALIA

MONTRÈAL3 june

SAINT PETERSBURG17 june

CHICAGO12 february

NEW YORK15 february

SHANGHAI4 november

HONG KONG6 november

GUANGDONG 28 may

MONACO 27 march

18 aprilRIO DE JANEIRO

22 aprilSÃO PAULO

DÜSSELDORF23 march