southern - the west australian · the southern forests has some of the best fresh food in the...

Thursday, February 23, 2017

BELLEsouthernFrom paddock to plate our Southern Forests is committed to be WA’s premiere food bowl

FRESH PLUS Delicious recipes by local chef Sophie Zalokar all with that Southern Forests fl air. P6-7

Retail therapyBringing the country

to the city. P3

A forrest of wineRay Jordan reviews

the region’s best. P13

Take five with David Ebsary,owner Manjimup Meat MartQ: How do you source your meat? A: Locally. We believe the quality isoutstanding and remarkably better thanproduct purchased further north. Qualityis also more consistent. Q: What value-added products do youproduce?A: Our products include heat-and-eatmeals, a vast range of sausages, stir-frymeals, marinated beef and lamb and a fullrange of first-quality roasts. The speedwith which these fly out of the shop is atestament to their popularity and furtherindicates that we are providing aconvenient, consistent, quality productwhich is always fresh and at a popularprice.

Q: What’s the secret to agreat sausage?A: Good-quality local meats,innovative flavours and alabour of love all contribute tothe making of our sausages.Q: What is your biggest challenge?A: We strive to stay in touch with ourcustomers and to provide what they wantas opposed to providing what we want toprovide. To do this we actually listen towhat our customers are saying and act onthis wherever and whenever we can.Q: Is there anything new in thepipeline?A: We have recently started displayingother local products such as vegetablesand condiments. This is to make ourcustomers’ shopping experience a littleeasier by providing a very friendly one-stop shop for their convenience.

Q&A

David Ebsary. Picture: Iain Gillespie

FRESH PLUS 3

258 Canning Hwy, Bicton

Genuinely Southern Forests fresh, local apples and plums now available from Fresh Provisions, Bicton.

BICTON | MOUNT LAWLEY

Welcome to thisvery special editionof Fresh. There’sgood reason whythe SouthernForests has some ofthe best fresh foodin the world. Itsrich pastures,ordered vineyards

and clean waters come together tocreate near-perfect fertile ground inwhich to plant, grow, graze and farm.Thanks to the Southern Forests FoodCouncil’s branding initiative,Genuinely Southern Forests, we cityslickers and those around the State canenjoy the fruits of its labour, with mostIGAs and independent retailers faststocking its produce. When a freshfood shop is in order, look for the logoand be assured the produce was sittingin soil, or perched on a tree or vine,just a day or two before. In this editionwe look at the people behind thisregion’s success.Hermione Stott

Thursday, February 23, 2017

ASSISTANT EDITOR — FEATURESJenni Storey, 9482 [email protected] Hermione StottSTAFF WRITER Olga de MoellerADVERTISINGSarah Owen, 9482 3481Cover Photo Iain Gillespie

Southern Forests is living up to itsreputation as WA’s food bowl withworld-class produce second to

none.Taking in Manjimup, Pemberton,

Northcliffe and Walpole, it’s home tothe internationally famous pink ladyapple and a dynamic truffle industrythat’s put an old timber milling town inthe spotlight as new producers comeon board to make the most of aharvest known as black gold with anestimated farm gate value of $8.5million last year.

Nearly 40 per cent of the State’spotatoes come out of this fertileregion 300km south of Perth, alongwith 50 per cent of its apples, 70 percent of its avocados and 90 per centof it broccoli, much of it grown bythird and fourth-generation farmersrepresented by a 400-strongSouthern Forests Food Council set upin 2012 through the State

Government’s Royalties for Regionsinitiative. It has 270 members and itsown Genuinely Southern Forestsbrand, launched in 2013.

“We’ve just got our own floor —Allstates — at the Canning ValeMarkets,” Southern Forests FoodCouncil executive chairman and plumgrower Bevan Eatts said. “About 100producers are using the GenuinelySouthern Forests co-branding, theretailers have come on board andconsumers can have the confidencethey’re buying something grown witha lot of care and pride.”

Come the first and third Saturday ofthe month and it’s all showcased atthe Manjimup Farmers’ Market inManjin Park in the centre of town, witheverything from berries to chestnuts,walnuts, honey, eggs, sparklingapple and grape juices, localwines, cheese, jams,chutneys, bread and cakes.

“The markets have been going since2003 in various locations around townand we have been in our presentposition since 2010,” co-ordinatorElizabeth Shorthouse said.

“Some 300-600 people attend, andthe latest postcode count we didshowed two-thirds were from out oftown.”

It’s a sign of the times that farmersare diversifying, with Mr Eatts jugglingplums, cattle, sheep and rainbowtrout. Avocados are the pick of thecrop all round, with more plantingsgoing in as growers jump on a valuefruit — actually, a single-seeded berry— anecdotally worth $86 million to theregion last year.

“A feijoa industry is getting off theground, with about 10,000 new treesplanted in the past 12 months,” MrEatts said.

“Kiwifruit have also presented anopportunity for some growersbecause our region has beenidentified as having an idealclimate and a four-to-six week

window to sell overseas before theNew Zealand season kicks in.”

Niche crops, such as finger limesand green tea, are creeping into the80,000ha of farmland to supplementestablished plantings of mainstay fruitand vegetables as grown-up childrenreturn to their roots to carry on familytraditions under the Southern ForestsYoung Farmers umbrella.

“A heap of 24-30-year-olds arecoming home and that’s great to see,”Mr Eatts said.

“They have a fresh perspective andthey’re not pigeonholed into doingthings the old way. The opportunitiesare there and the outlook is positivebecause cattle prices have beensensational and wool has been at itshighest in the past six months.”Olga de Moeller

SFFC cherries. Picture: Craig Kinder Food Photography

Walpole. Picture: Iain Gillespie

308 South St, Hilton

Join us for your own genuine taste experience of fresh local Genuinely Southern Forests produce instore on

TUESDAY 18 APRIL

MANDURAH | MIDLAND | HILTON | WILLETTON

Goodtastes

PLU

S

FRESH PLUS 3THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH •THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2017

The Roberts family. Picture: Iain Gillespie

258 Canning Hwy, Bicton

Genuinely Southern Forests fresh, local apples and plums now available from Fresh Provisions, Bicton.

BICTON | MOUNT LAWLEY

“The markets have been going since2003 in various locations around townand we have been in our presentposition since 2010,” co-ordinatorElizabeth Shorthouse said.

“Some 300-600 people attend, andthe latest postcode count we didshowed two-thirds were from out oftown.”

It’s a sign of the times that farmersare diversifying, with Mr Eatts jugglingplums, cattle, sheep and rainbowtrout. Avocados are the pick of thecrop all round, with more plantingsgoing in as growers jump on a valuefruit — actually, a single-seeded berry— anecdotally worth $86 million to theregion last year.

“A feijoa industry is getting off theground, with about 10,000 new treesplanted in the past 12 months,” MrEatts said.

“Kiwifruit have also presented anopportunity for some growersbecause our region has beenidentified as having an idealclimate and a four-to-six week

window to sell overseas before theNew Zealand season kicks in.”

Niche crops, such as finger limesand green tea, are creeping into the80,000ha of farmland to supplementestablished plantings of mainstay fruitand vegetables as grown-up childrenreturn to their roots to carry on familytraditions under the Southern ForestsYoung Farmers umbrella.

“A heap of 24-30-year-olds arecoming home and that’s great to see,”Mr Eatts said.

“They have a fresh perspective andthey’re not pigeonholed into doingthings the old way. The opportunitiesare there and the outlook is positivebecause cattle prices have beensensational and wool has been at itshighest in the past six months.”Olga de Moeller

SFFC cherries. Picture: Craig Kinder Food Photography

How fresh is fresh when itcomes to fruit and veg?Five days? Three days?

Gilbert’s Fresh Marketstrive for the freshestproduce available, whichmeans that more often thannot the apple on their shelfwas hanging on the tree theday before.

“If we order on a Mondaythen it’s with us by theTuesday,” said principal JohnOpferkuch. “Freshness is ournumber one priority, ourbible, and is why ourcustomers keep comingback.”

Mr Opferkuch said his fourstores in Midland, Willetton,Mandurah and Hilton werepurely a fresh fruit and vegmarket and GenuinelySouthern Forests producewas his produce of choice.

“They are fantastic to dealwith and the produce is justso, so good,” he said.

“Here in WA, being soisolated, we are reallyextremely lucky to have theright climate to be growing

such amazing fruit andvegetables.” Mr Opferkuchsaid not only did hiscustomers appreciate thefreshness, and flavour ofSouthern Forests produce butits lifespan was much longeronce it left the store.

“It’s not unusual for it to lastup to two weeks and is stillperfect to eat,” he said.

Wembley and LeedervilleSupa IGA producemanager/buyer Tim Jagotsaid he had found hiscustomers had become moreaware of the brand and thequality of produce it

provided. “In particular we sell a large

amount of Southern Forestsavocados with repeat salesmaking it hard to keep upwith demand,” he said.

“Local means higher qualityas the produce hasn’t had totravel large distances to getto our stores, and support oflocal farmers is key to theongoing viability of farmingin WA.”

He said helping to identifyand communicate the sourceof produce was paramount tothe success of his businessesas more customers soughtlocal.

“Southern Forests are wellon the road to vastlyimproving the ‘paddock toplate’ path through betterlogistics and marketing andin doing so will helpcustomers perceptions andunderstanding of what islocally available,” he said.

Mr Opferkuch has workedcollaboratively andsuccessfully with SouthernForests growers for the goodpart of 10 years and said hewas always on the lookout tobuild and create newrelationships.

“We really believe in theregion and its produce andwill continue to support themin any way we can,” he said.

Region’s championsFresh local produceshines on shelf, findsHERMIONE STOTT

Rachel Klumpp and John Opferkuch. Picture: Danella Bevis

Deryck Kippen, Craig Irons & Tim Jagot. Picture: Iain Gillespie

308 South St, Hilton


TUESDAY 18 APRIL


Take five with Charlie and ColeenRoberts, owners CharCol SpringsQ: What made you interested in farming eggs atyour Manjimup farm?A: We were rotational grazing our cattle throughthe fruit orchard and soon noticed that we couldalso graze chickens behind the cattle. The chickensclean up all the bugs and grubs and spread the cowmanure out and is highly beneficial to the soil in anatural way. We quickly realised that the eggs beingproduced were of amazing quality. With some moreresearch we figured out that we could operate thesame sustainable system on a larger scale over our70ha pastured paddocks with a herd of cattlefollowed by 2500 chickens. The results we arealready getting with our soil health are justincredible. With this continual rotational style offarming we became not only graziers of cattle butalso graziers of chickens. Q: How does your farm differ from others?A: Our whole ethos is based around sustainability,farming for the future, farming for our children. Ifwe don’t care for the land in this generation whatwill we be handing over to the next generation?Q: What are the some of the challenges you havefaced?A: Educating the consumer on what pastured eggsare, how they are produced and establishing thecategory of pastured eggs on the market in earliertimes were our greatest challenges. Now thedemand is far greater than we can produce. Q: What is your family’s favourite meal to makewith eggs?A: We all laugh at the fact that we should write abook titled 501 Ways To Eat Eggs. We are alwayslooking for different ways to eat them but ourfavourite is truffled egg — an egg that has beeninfused with a truffle for a few days then poached orfried. It’s absolutely delicious, but very seasonal.Q: What future plans to do you have for thefarm?A: Not only to educate our children on thissustainable style of farming but also to educateother farmers who wish to learn these practicesthrough workshops where we give them all the toolsthey require to get started in pastured eggproduction.

Q&A

4 FRESH PLUSTHE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2017

Restaurateur David Coomer plans to sell up inPerth next year and move to his 12ha truffle farm inManjimup as he weighs up the harvest from 1400trees planted in two stages over the past 10 years.

It means putting his restaurant, Fuyu, and Spanishdelicatessen, Xarcuteria, on the market to pursue hisnest egg that’s already produced a 560g truffle — hisbiggest — in its first harvest in 2014.

“We got only a couple of kilos that year but that’spretty much the trend,” he said.

“The following year, it was about 6kg and last year,20kg. This year, we’re expecting about 60kg from theoriginal planting and may look at a little bit ofexport, but the biggest issue for us has been supply.”

Coomer spends his weekends on the farm and losta truffle pup to a snake bite a few weeks ago.

“The pup was just starting to get the hang of it,”

he said. “We still have Olive, who’s nine, and just got anew dog —Twiggy — who’s four and a maniac. I takethem down with me each time. We’ve done a massiveprune and maintenance is ongoing.”

Manjimup is the biggest producer of truffles in theSouthern Hemisphere and many small orchards aredue to come on stream in the next couple of years.

“We just wanted a little piece of paradise andthought it could give us some income for life afterrestaurants,” he said. “If we can get 400-500kg out oftrees that would be fine, that’s about five years away.

“At the moment I use a lot of truffles in my owncooking and am probably more generous than if Iwere having to buy them because there are plenty ofoffcuts I can put into pates and terrines, evencustards,” he said.Olga de MoellerDavid Coomer with his dogs. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Manjimup farmer PeterNicolaou has raisedthe bar with his Karri

Springs Pure Natural SpringWater range of carbonatedand flavoured sugar-freebeverages made with naturalflavours to quench thirsts.

It’s taken eight years ofhard slog and heartache toget his $1.8 million plant within-line carbonation system upand running, sourcing waterfrom the same spring used byhis mother decades ago toflood-irrigate the vegetablegarden on the 52ha familyfarm 10km out of town at thehead of the Warren Lefroycatchment.

“It’s one of three springs onthe property and they run allyear, rising naturally to thesurface without bores orpumps,” Mr Nicolaou, 68,said. “A lot of people thoughtthat the water was so good itshould be bottled.

“A lot of my friends arediabetics and I wanted toproduce something theycould drink and enjoy andI’ve done it using a

high-quality stevia thatdoesn’t have any aftertaste.My formula is based on acompletely different conceptto traditional soft drinks andthe result is light andrefreshing. It’s 100 per centsugar-free and 100 per centnatural.”

Mr Nicolaou started withbottled still water, thenworked with John Noble,from Osborne Park-basedIngredient SolutionsAustralia, to come up withflavoured varieties — orangeand mandarin, lemon andlime, tropical fruits andwatermelon. He’s justdeveloped a caffeine-freeand sugar-free cola, which isdue to be released by March.

“I’ve fine-tuned all theflavours myself so that whenyou open the orange andmandarin you can smell thearoma and the lemon andlime gives you that nicetingle in your mouth,” he said.“The cola goes really wellwith bourbon.”

Still water is packaged in600ml bottles and

carbonated varieties are500ml. Production is 30,000units a day and talks areunder way to supplyWoolworths and Coles.Bunbury Farmers Market andMetcash, which supplies IGAand other independentgrocers, is already on board.

“My parents were tobaccogrowers in Manjimup,” he

said. “My father died when Iwas 15 and I had to fill hisboots pretty much from then,so I took over mygrandfather’s licencegrowing potatoes when I wasin high school. Most of thefarm is leased out, apart fromthe bit I do, and that’s morethan enough at my age.”Olga de Moeller

Sugar-free range bubbles overFarmer springs into a newnatural range of soft drinks

PeterNicolaouPicture: IainGillespie

‘Peoplethoughtthat thewater . . . should bebottled.’

Cnr Rouse Rd & Mandurah Rd, Greenfields



SATURDAY 18 MARCH AND TUESDAY 30 MAY

Truffle in paradise

1/64 Morrison Rd, MidlandMANDURAH | MIDLAND | HILTON | WILLETTON


SATURDAY 6 MAY

Steve BendottiPicture: Iain Gillespie


he said. “We still have Olive, who’s nine, and just got anew dog —Twiggy — who’s four and a maniac. I takethem down with me each time. We’ve done a massiveprune and maintenance is ongoing.”

Manjimup is the biggest producer of truffles in theSouthern Hemisphere and many small orchards aredue to come on stream in the next couple of years.

“We just wanted a little piece of paradise andthought it could give us some income for life afterrestaurants,” he said. “If we can get 400-500kg out oftrees that would be fine, that’s about five years away.

“At the moment I use a lot of truffles in my owncooking and am probably more generous than if Iwere having to buy them because there are plenty ofoffcuts I can put into pates and terrines, evencustards,” he said.Olga de Moeller

Sugar-free range bubbles over

PeterNicolaouPicture: IainGillespie

Cnr Rouse Rd & Mandurah Rd, Greenfields



SATURDAY 18 MARCH AND TUESDAY 30 MAY

1/64 Morrison Rd, MidlandMANDURAH | MIDLAND | HILTON | WILLETTON


SATURDAY 6 MAY

Q&ATake five withPaul Kerry, general manager,Bendotti ExportersQ: How long have the Bendottifamilies been growing potatoes in theregion?A: Brothers Ben and John Bendotti andtheir families moved from Italy in 1932.They began by growing a few hectaresof potatoes just north of Pemberton.Today, the Bendottis and theirdescendants have accumulated morethan 300 collective years of experience.Q: How did your WA Chip brandcome about and how many potatoesdoes it process?A: The Bendotti families decided toband together and buy out the MAES(Manjimup Syndicate Coolstores) siteand factory — from the administrator in2002. It was a way to continue valueadding to the potato crops grown in theregion. Knowing that the clean andfertile environment of the region was apoint of difference worldwide, the WAChip brand was a natural choice. Ourquarantine laws do not allow theimporting of potato tubers, so everyWA Chip product is exclusively cookedfrom home-grown potatoes. Q: What other value added productsdo you produce?A: Bendotti Exporters produces 7mm,10mm and 13mm French fries as well ascrinkle cut, steak, country style/skin onchips, wedges, slices, scallops, halvesand diced potatoes. Q: What is your biggest challenge?A: We have a two-fold challenge: energyand freight. Even small movements inworld energy prices can accumulate tobig challenges. Freight costs out of WAhamper exports to the Eastern Statesand overseas. Q: Any innovations in the pipeline?A: Hot Chips vending machines. That’sthe big development. We are investorsin and suppliers to this innovativeproject that will create a new market forFrench fries sales.

Steve BendottiPicture: Iain Gillespie

It is a known fact that if you want toget something done, give it to a busyperson. Blackbutt Broccoli partnerLauren East is a very busy personand is part of the glue that keeps herfamily’s farm up and running.

“I have a never-ending jobs list.When you finish one job there willalways be another one to start,” shesaid.

The farm, 10km north ofManjimup, mainly produces broccoliand has a sheep breeding program(wool and prime ribs). Broccoli isgrown over 22ha and is distributed toa major supermarket as well as otherindependent grocery stores aroundthe metro area.

“This year we will be adding fruitto the mix with our first crop ofpassionfruit and avocados,” she said.

The 30-year-old is athird-generation farmer and has beenworking on the farm for the past 10years with her parents and youngerbrother. “At this time of year a normalday for me is about a 13-hour workday,” she said. “My biggest challengeis probably not enough hours in theday.”

With the avocado and passionfruitcrops still to come to fruition, MsEast has busied herself in study,enrolling and graduating from aGrowing Leadership TrainingProgram with Rural Traininginitiatives.

She said she had found the coursesto be not only motivating, but helpfulhaving taken several ideas andimplementing them.Hermione Stott

Lauren EastPicture: Iain

Gillespie

Flat-out farmer

Middlesex orchardistsKate and DeanBaker are making

the most of their bountywith a range of sparklingapple juices under theNewLeaf Orchard label.

Think of it a bit like wine,bottled by single variety tohighlight the flavour ofpink lady, granny Smithand golden delicious.

There are also seasonalblends — apple and cherry,apple and strawberry andapple and quince, whichhas an aromatic palatewith hints of pineapplethat children, by allaccounts, love.

“The orchard’s 25 yearsold, so well established,”Ms Baker said. “We boughtit five years ago and havebeen doing the juices forsix months. They’re justpure juice, plus a little bitof sparkle and people likethat. The little bit of fizzbalances the sweetness of

the apple perfectly.”Fruit is belt-pressed and

the juice then filtered,bottled, carbonated andgently pasteurised.

“There’s nothing addedat all,” Ms Baker said. “Nopreservatives, no sugarand no flavourings.

“We have a young family,so I’ve been pregnant orbreast feeding for a lot ofthe past few years andthese juices are great forpeople like me who maynot want to drink anythingalcoholic when they go outbut still want to enjoysomething special.”

Pear juice is in thepipeline with a newplanting of trees, as well asheritage varieties of apple,including Cox’s orangepippin, which is regardedone of the most famous ofall. “I love it,” Ms Bakersaid. “It’s a good all-rounder and makesbeautiful juice.” Juices are

available in selected metroand regional IGAs. TheBakers hope to have themin gourmet grocery storesover the next few months.Olga de Moeller

New leaffor orchardAll apples for juice venture

Kate and Dean Baker atNewLeaf Orchard,Manjimup. Picture: IainGillespie


FRESH PLUS 7

Shop 78-80 Southlands Shopping Centre, Willetton



TUESDAY 14 MARCH AND SATURDAY 22 APRIL

Southerncomfort

Use fresh, local ingredientsfor a top-quality result


TUESDAY 28 MARCH

39 Ardross St, Applecross WA

t h e goodg ro c e r. c om.au

Preheat oven to 220C. Cut awaythe rib and stem end of the kaleleaves and reserve for a soup orvegetable dish. Spread the leavesand sourdough chunks onseparate baking trays, and lightlydrizzle both with olive oil. Roast inthe oven for 20 to 30 minutes,turning them over after 10minutes and roasting until goldenand crispy. Whisk together thecreme fraiche, Dijon mustard,anchovies and lemon juice with alittle seasoning, adjusting withcold water until the consistency ofpouring cream. Lay the roastedkale and crispy sourdoughcroutons on a platter and nestlethe pastrami and boiled egghalves evenly in and around thekale. Scatter over the parmesanand then drizzle over the dressing.Serve with extra freshly crackedblack pepper.

Crispy kale Caesar-style saladThis is a delicious version of theclassic Caesar salad that makesa sturdy lunch.

Rustic

Serves 4

2 large bunches or 4 whole curlykale

4 thick slices sourdough bread,roughly torn into chunks

olive oil1⁄4 cup creme fraiche1 tsp Dijon mustard4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped1 tbsp lemon juicesalt flakes and freshly cracked

black pepper, plus extra 250g Blackwood Valley organic

beef pastrami, thinly sliced4 free-range eggs, hard-boiled,

peeled, halved1 cup parmesan cheese, thinly

shaved

Preheat oven to 200C. Place the cherrytomatoes on a baking tray and liberallydrizzle with extra virgin olive oil.Sprinkle over the smoked paprika andseason with salt flakes and freshlycracked black pepper. Roast in the ovenfor 20-30 minutes until caramelised butstill holding their shape. Cut each sliceof grilled sourdough in half and thicklyspread with the ashed goat’s cheese.Top with the roasted cherry tomatoes,drizzle with the juices from the roastingtray and garnish with the fresh oreganoleaves.

Roast cherry tomatoes, smoked paprika, ashed goat’scheese on grilled sourdough Simple snack

Serves 4

2 punnets large red and yellowgrape or cherry tomatoes

extra virgin olive oil1 tsp smoked paprikasalt flakes and freshly cracked

black pepper4 thick slices sourdough

bread, grilled or toasted150g fresh ashed goat’s

cheese1 tbsp oregano leaves, togarnish

Cut away the rind and pith of the orange.Collecting the juice in a bowl, as you hold thepeeled orange, cut out the segments between themembranes. Squeeze out the juice from theremaining membranes into the bowl. Combineorange juice with the lemon juice and whisk in theavocado oil, seasoning to taste. Halve theavocados, remove the seed and scoop out of theskin with a large spoon. Thinly slice. Layer theavocado slices and nasturtium leaves with thefennel, radish and orange segments. Scatter overthe wild olives before drizzling with the dressingand seasoning with some salt flakes and freshlycracked black pepper.

Avocado, orange, fennel, radish,nasturtium and wild olive saladServes 4

1 orange1 tbsp lemon or lime

juice100ml avocado oil or

extra virgin olive oilsalt flakes and freshly

cracked black pepper

2 ripe Hass avocados1 large handful small

nasturtium leaves1 fennel bulb, thinly

sliced4 radishes, thinly sliced1⁄2 cup small wild olives

or halved pittedkalamata olives

Sophie Zalokar

Pictures: Craig KinderFood PhotographyStylist: Sophie Zalokar



Shop 78-80 Southlands Shopping Centre, Willetton




comfort


TUESDAY 28 MARCH

39 Ardross St, Applecross WA

t h e goodg ro c e r. c om.au

Cut away the rind and pith of the orange.Collecting the juice in a bowl, as you hold thepeeled orange, cut out the segments between themembranes. Squeeze out the juice from theremaining membranes into the bowl. Combineorange juice with the lemon juice and whisk in theavocado oil, seasoning to taste. Halve theavocados, remove the seed and scoop out of theskin with a large spoon. Thinly slice. Layer theavocado slices and nasturtium leaves with thefennel, radish and orange segments. Scatter overthe wild olives before drizzling with the dressingand seasoning with some salt flakes and freshlycracked black pepper. Eclectic

2 ripe Hass avocados1 large handful small

nasturtium leaves1 fennel bulb, thinly

sliced4 radishes, thinly sliced1⁄2 cup small wild olives

or halved pittedkalamata olives

Preheat oven to 180C and line a lamington bakingtin with baking paper. Sift the flour, baking powderand salt together and reserve to the side. Whiskthe egg whites with a pinch of salt until frothy andthen gradually add the sugar and continue to beatuntil a firm meringue. Add the yolks one at a timeuntil incorporated and light and frothy. Combinethe milk and vanilla extract. Fold in the flourmixture and vanilla milk alternately until wellcombined. Spoon into the lamington tin, smooththe top and bake 25-35 minutes until a skewercomes away clean when inserted. Combine thecondensed and evaporated milks and cremefraiche. With the cake still in the tin, evenly pierceholes halfway into the cake with a skewer andpour over this milk mixture. Cover and refrigerateovernight to absorb. For the strawberries, preheatoven to 220C. Halve the strawberries and evenlyscatter on a baking tray. Sprinkle over the half cupof caster sugar and bake in the oven for 10 minutesuntil the strawberries have collapsed a little andthe sugar dissolved into the strawberry juices.Allow to cool before transferring into a bowl. Stirthrough the rosewater, cover and refrigerate. Tomake the meringue topping, combine the castersugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to asimmer and stir to dissolve. Continue to cook untilthe syrup reaches 120C on a sugar thermometer.Meanwhile whisk the egg whites with a pinch ofsalt until soft peaks form. Gradually pour in the hotsyrup while continuing to whisk until the meringueis thick and glossy. Whisk in the rosewater. Spoonon to the cake in an even layer. For the three-milk(tres leches) sauce, combine the evaporated andcondensed milks and creme fraiche. Serve asquare piece of cake in a bowl and then pour alittle of the tres leches sauce around the base ofthe cake. Spoon some of the strawberries on tothe sauce with a sprinkling of dried rose petalsover the top to garnish.

Latin American ‘tres leches’ cake with strawberry and rose petal

DelectableServes 15

300g plain flour2 tsp baking powderpinch salt6 eggs, separated275g caster sugar1⁄2 cup milk1 tsp vanilla extract500ml sweetened condensed milk400ml evaporated milk300ml creme fraicheStrawberries3 punnets strawberries, washed,

tops removed1⁄2 cup caster sugar2 tsp rosewater1⁄2 cup dried rose petals, to serveMeringue topping360g caster sugar120ml water160g egg white (about 4 large eggs)pinch salt3 tsp rosewaterTres leches sauce120ml sweetened condensed milk90ml evaporated milk70ml creme fraiche

Take 5 with Chestnut Grove’sMark KordicQ: How did it all begin?A: We were among the first to plant vines inthe Manjimup/Pemberton region in 1987, led by VicKordic, who suggested planting the vines on hisproperty, 7km east of Manjimup. A true patriarch hehad a great ability to assess situations and developmethods of dealing with issues, with a high regard toquality. The philosophy has always been to achievethe best quality possible, while tempering that withthe requirements of the market. He also developed asystem for picking the olives from our 60-year-oldtrees, enabling two people to collect them and getthem to the press quickly, to produce a gold medal atthe Sydney Easter Show on our first showing.Q: What wines are you best known for?A: Because we’re independent, and have total controlof the process from when to pick and what to makewe are able to be versatile in what we make and how.We are known for our verdelho — a dry, fruity white,and our merlot, for which we won best merlot inAustralia for the 1999 vintage, and came second inAustralia in 2001. Q: What sets Chestnut Grove apart?A: Our ability to work with the grapes and enhancenature’s plan. With our intention to produce grapes ofpristine quality and make premium wines, and thefact that it is done on the estate with our ownmachinery, we can pick when the grapes are at theirprime. We’ve also been doing this for so long, we’reable to maintain the balance in this ever-changingenvironment — we know the areas on the vineyardthat have better soil, face just the right way to get themaximum sun, and we can pick those blocks andkeep them separate, to maximise wine quality. Q: What do you love about the wine industry in theSouthern Forests?A: Each season is so different. The wines change allthe time, according to heat, rain, timing. This year willbe fascinating, as there has been a very mild start,with lots of rain. We’ll have to wait to see what theweather is like leading up to Easter, when generallythe grapes are picked. Each wine is different everyyear, but the quality of the area, and the quality of thewine making is consistent.Q: Is there anything new in the pipeline?A: We’ve also been producing sparkling wines whenthe seasons permit — a pinot chardonnay whitesparkling, a deep and luscious sparkling merlot and agreat easy drinking rosé.

Q&A

Mark Kordic at Chestnut Grove. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Pictures: Craig KinderFood PhotographyStylist: Sophie Zalokar

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313 Vincent St, LeedervilleOPEN 24 HOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK


TUESDAY 11 APRIL


Organic and fermented foods are thenew black with products hitting theshelves faster than you can saykombucha. Loving Gift is one suchlabel specialising in raw and organicproducts.

The label, which sports more than30 superfood products from rawchocolate to granola, also producescertified organic fermented foodsgrown and made from its own farm inManjimup.

Founder Anita Edwards, who ran

Third-generationvegetable grower WayneEdwards hasn’t looked

back since he went organic 17years ago on the 300hafamily farm just outsideManjimup.

He’s one of a handful ofcertified organic andbiodynamic farmers in theregion, which includesNewton Orchards offshootValley View Organics.

“I did it from a soil healthperspective,” Mr Edwardssaid. “When you stop usingherbicides and pesticides, itchanges the dynamic of thefarm. Healthy soil is moreresistant to bugs and pestsbut yield is lower thangrowing conventionallybecause you can’t pump upcrops with liquid fertiliser andthere’s no instant fix.

“It’s a more alkaline way offarming and alkaline foodsare better for your health.”

The farm, which MrEdwards runs and manageswith his son Jason, wascertified in 1999. His80-year-old father Doug isstill on hand full-time.Plantings include beetroot,kale, potatoes, cauliflower,broccoli and three types ofcabbage under the BioVeglabel. They also have cattleand sheep for certifiedorganic meat.

“Our biggest crops arebeetroot and potatoes,” MrEdwards said. “Beetroot

really is a superfood, morepowerful than kale, and agreat energy booster by allaccounts.”

His wife Anita packagessuperfoods and bottlesfermented vegetables,beetroot chutney andcoconut kefir under theLoving Gift label.

Mr Edwards also growscertified biodynamicavocados under the Tree ofLove Resort label on a farmhe bought in 2008. It has2500 trees and he is puttingin more.

“Most of the avocados goover east,” he said.“Biodynamics is a whole levelabove organics and the mainreason I went for avocados isthat they’re a high-value cropand super-healthy food thatcan be used for every meal ofthe day.”

Certified organic applegrower Nicole Giblett said itwas a sign of the times thatconsumers were wanting“safe food”. The family hasconverted one of its threelong-established orchards toValley View Organics,growing royal gala, grannySmith, fuji, pink lady andsundowner.

“Compared to conventionalapples, they tend to have adenser flesh and moreintense flavour,” she said.“Our reasoning (to goorganic) was actuallythreefold. Apart from the

food integrity aspect,we’re also seeking toimprove our landstewardship andgrowing practices anddiversify production inan increasingly tightdomestic apple marketwhich has seenconsumption declineunder threat fromimported fruit products.

“There’s still a fewhectares of very youngtrees yet to come intoorganic production, soour tonnage will increaseover the next two-fiveyears.”

Rewards of farming theorganic waySoil health and crops improve,discovers OLGA DE MOELLER

Organic farmer Wayne Edwards with his son Jason. Picture: Iain Gillespie

‘It’s amorealkalineway offarming. . . betterfor yourhealth.’

11/1 Marshall Rd, Myaree


SATURDAY 25 MARCH AND WEDNESDAY 26 APRIL

LIMES FRESH FOODIES MARKET

FRESH PLUS 11

Third-generation farmerCarlo Pessotto has it inthe bag with his Karri

Country Gourmet Potatoes,which will sport a new lookand label co-branded with theGenuinely Southern Forestslogo over the next couple ofmonths.

The gourmet line is a nicheproduct to the mainstreampotato farm, Pessotto andSon, which produces800-1000 tonnes a year.

It’s a family affair, withbrother Frank overseeingplanting and his wife Tarynhelping Carlo’s wife Samanthabehind the scenes.

“We’re looking at March-April for the new bags,” MrPessotto said. “We’ve gonewith brown paper and a meshwindow so people can seewhat’s inside and called themNatural Gourmet Potatoes tohighlight the fact they’rehand-graded and unwashed.

“The idea behind thegourmet line is to offer peoplesomething different andunique when it comes to taste,colour and cooking qualities.These potatoes don’t really

Luxe spudsGourmet niche varietals hit thespot, finds OLGA DE MOELLER

Fermenting revolution . . .

Anita Edwards of Loving Gift, Manjimup.Picture: Iain Gillespie

313 Vincent St, LeedervilleOPEN 24 HOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK


TUESDAY 11 APRIL


Organic and fermented foods are thenew black with products hitting theshelves faster than you can saykombucha. Loving Gift is one suchlabel specialising in raw and organicproducts.

The label, which sports more than30 superfood products from rawchocolate to granola, also producescertified organic fermented foodsgrown and made from its own farm inManjimup.

Founder Anita Edwards, who ran

successful organic food outlets in bothNew Zealand and Bunbury beforerelocating to the Southern Forests, saidfermented foods should beimplemented into a daily diet to helpwith digestion.

“This is especially the case if you eata lot of meat,” she said.

Ms Edwards said there were twoways to ferment food, by adding aprobiotic or simply adding salt.

“Cabbage will ferment on its own butwe add a probiotic as well,” she said.

“We figure, why not get the very bestout of the vegetable?

“For kids we have just brought outnew ferment called Super SimplyCarrot. It’s a bit sweeter and a nicercolour and the kids are loving it.

“We are also just about to bring out asalad dressing into the market verysoon.”

You can find Loving Gift at morethan 300 retail outlets across Perth.Visit lovinggift.com.au for stockists.Hermione Stott

Organic farmer Wayne Edwards with his son Jason. Picture: Iain Gillespie

11/1 Marshall Rd, Myaree


SATURDAY 25 MARCH AND WEDNESDAY 26 APRIL

LIMES FRESH FOODIES MARKET


Relocating from the city to the country to becloser to family is one thing, but changingcareers and taking on family farming life isquite another.

Mechanical engineer Ryan East gave awayhis FIFO lifestyle two years ago and with hisnew bride Danika recently bought a plot ofland in Manjimup planting feijoas, pumpkinsand sapo melons.

“The decision to return to the family farmwas to enable us to spend more time at homewhen children eventually come along,” hesaid. “Raising kids with a FIFO lifestyle wasnot something we wanted to do and the familyfarm was a step in that direction.”

The family farm was purchased in the late80s by Mr East’s grandfather, who developedthe property with earthmoving machineswhich was his previous line of work. Whatstarted out as a cauliflower export businesswith Mr East’s father and uncles in the early90s transitioned into processing lettuce.

“Dad and Mum have remained on the farmwhile the brothers have moved into otherbusinesses,” Mr East said.

“We grow processing lettuce and baby leafproducts throughout the summer periodpredominantly for the WA market.”

It is this thriving business which allowedRyan and Danika to harvest their own dreams.

“Our main business is still working fulltimein our respective jobs but the feijoas, pumpkinand melons were a recommendation from theFood Council and now supplement ourincomes,” he said.

“Daily you’re doing many tasks for the farmto operate effectively. Similarly on a biggerscale, if you have appropriate land and waterto suit, you are able to grow/produce so manydifferent types of fruit/vegetables/meat. Itdepends on what you are prepared to try.

“The fact that you can see the effects ofyour labour is also very rewarding.”Hermione Stott

Fresh new start

Manjimup farmer Ryan East. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Third-generation farmerCarlo Pessotto has it inthe bag with his Karri

Country Gourmet Potatoes,which will sport a new lookand label co-branded with theGenuinely Southern Forestslogo over the next couple ofmonths.

The gourmet line is a nicheproduct to the mainstreampotato farm, Pessotto andSon, which produces800-1000 tonnes a year.

It’s a family affair, withbrother Frank overseeingplanting and his wife Tarynhelping Carlo’s wife Samanthabehind the scenes.

“We’re looking at March-April for the new bags,” MrPessotto said. “We’ve gonewith brown paper and a meshwindow so people can seewhat’s inside and called themNatural Gourmet Potatoes tohighlight the fact they’rehand-graded and unwashed.

“The idea behind thegourmet line is to offer peoplesomething different andunique when it comes to taste,colour and cooking qualities.These potatoes don’t really

work on a big scale becauseyield is lower and we do onlyabout 20 tonnes at themoment, though the plan isto expand over the next threeyears.”

Varieties include salad rose,Dutch cream, kipfler,Delaware, King Edward andpurple congo, which is purpleinside and out.

“Purple congo is quite a drypotato and works wellroasted but you can boil itand mash it to retain a lilaccolour,” Mr Pessotto said. “Myfavourite is salad rosebecause it has a light, smoothtexture that doesn’t feelheavy on the palate. It cooksquicker than other potatoesand has a beautiful flavour. Itmakes a silky mash but isbrilliant boiled and makesfantastic croquettes.”

Delaware and King Edwardwere old varieties that weregrown because peopleremembered them and theystill had their place.

“We also do new-seasonpotatoes, which are immatureand have a very fine, delicateskin,” he said.

Varieties in the pipelineinclude crimson pearl, whichhas pink skin and flesh,midnight pearl (purple skinand purple flesh), burgundyblush (deep red skin and pinkflesh), la ratte and sapphire.

“La ratte is similar to kipflerand sapphire has a deeppurple skin with streaky purpleand white flesh,” Mr Pessottosaid.

Luxe spudsGourmet niche varietals hit thespot, finds OLGA DE MOELLER

CarloPessoto ofKarriCountryGourmetPotatoes.Picture:IainGillespie

Fermenting revolution . . .

Anita Edwards of Loving Gift, Manjimup.Picture: Iain Gillespie


Ranford Rd & Wright Rd, Harrisdale


SATURDAY 25 FEBRUARY AND TUESDAY 2 MAY

Royal galas will be first pick at the end ofthis month for second-generationorchardist Michael Fox, who is packagingthem up in new cartons with theR.K. & J. Fox & Son label co-branded withthe Genuinely Southern Forests logo tostand out on supermarket shelves.

“We used to sell all our apples in tubsbut these cartons present the fruit muchbetter and can be put straight on the shopshelf,” he said. “Royal galas are colouringup beautifully now because of the coolnights and that’s what gives them the nicered colour.”

The orchard called Brookside was firstplanted with apple trees in 1964 by MrFox’s father, Ron, 92, and is run with thehelp of Mr Fox’s wife, Kaye, and eldest sonMathew.

“We’ve pulled up the original trees andreplaced them with newer varieties, such askanzi, fuji and pink lady,” Mr Fox said.“There are still some golden delicious andred delicious left, but we’re phasing themout, though we’ll keep our granny Smiths.”

The orchard has switched to higherdensity plantings to facilitate treemaintenance, apple picking and netting,which minimises sun and hail damage tofruit and keeps birds away.

Mr Fox said royal galas, fujis and pinkladys were the most popular and he hasrecently planted kanzi, a cross betweenroyal gala and braeburn. Plantings of bravoare in the pipeline.

“Younger people tend to go for newervarieties,” he said. “Few will choose agranny to eat but they still have theirplace.”Olga de Moeller

Foxy new look

Ron Fox, centre, with grandsonMathew and son Michael at theirproperty. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Marrying a third-generation farmer hastaken Walpole town

local Kelly Burton out of hercomfort zone as she venturesinto beekeeping andavocados to diversify thefamily’s longstanding beefproduction.

She has eight hives on the440ha property she runs withhusband Neil and his75-year-old father Don, whois always on hand.

“I started with one hive as ahobby five years ago andnow have eight,” she said.“The bees are there mainlyfor pollination but I’mplanning to bottle the honeyin 60ml jars and use it as abonbonniere option.”

Her honey is a blend oftrees and grasses on theproperty, including clover,jarrah, red tingle, yellowtingle, red gum andpeppermint which is, oddly,bittersweet. Extraction isdone by simple cold pressingand filtering to retain thenatural flavour and goodness.

“Raw honey is always best,”Nannup-based second

generation beekeeper SimonGreen said. He’s one of only ahandful of professionalapiarists in the region,expanding from 10 to 200hives in the past eight yearsas he weighs up exportmarkets for his range of rawhoney harvested from nativebushland under the SouthernForests Honey label.

“It’s totally natural andunpasteurised,” he said. “Wedon’t use any chemicals in thehives and my wife Sarah doesthe bottling.”

It’s small-batch beekeepingat its best, with honeyextracted on site into200-litre drums and simplypassed through a screen filterto take out the biggestparticles of wax. Honey ispacked into 300g and 900gglass jars and 3kg and 12kgplastic tubs. Red gum (marri),jarrah and wildflower arestaples, with karri floweringintermittently, depending onclimate.

“Red gum is the mostprolific,” he said. “It’s rich,without being overpowering,golden in colour and one ofthe best all-rounders. It wouldhave to be my favourite.

“Most varieties of eucalypt

flower biannually but karri isparticularly fickle. Last year’sflowering was one of the beston record for decades but wecan pick up a patch from timeto time in-between. Certaintimes, we’ll duck out of theregion for white gum, orwandoo but we don’t go farnorth so we can concentrateon the southern corner ofWA.”

Value-added productsinclude a range of flavouredcreamed honeys made withnatural infusions of vanilla,lemon myrtle, orange, chaiand ginger. The couple alsogrow lemon myrtle for therestaurant trade on their 10hafarm and have 200 blueberrybushes earmarked forcommercial production nextyear.

“Beekeeping is dependentnot only on environment, butalso on the genetics of ourbees and we’re continuallygoing through and finding thestrongest beehives to breedfrom,” Mr Green said.

“We’re in one of the bestparts of the world forbeekeeping and export is anoption down the track, but atthe moment we’re strugglingto fill domestic demand.”

How sweet it is . . .Bees are busyin the region,writes OLGADE MOELLER

Picture: Craig Kinder Food Photography

‘We’re inone ofthe bestparts ofthe worldfor bee-keeping.’

1/477 Riverton Dr E, Riverton


SATURDAY 1 APRIL AND TUESDAY 16 MAY

FRESH PLUS 13

For the intrepid winetourist, the SouthernForests region has plenty

to keep you busy, with manysmall cellar doors offeringwines that generally don’tmake it into the main storesand restaurants of Perth orother major regional towns.

In fact, it is one of the greatdisappointments that moreof these excellent wines don’tappear on liquor storeshelves. The wine quality isconsistently very good withthe region well suited to anumber of varieties becauseof the cooler, morecontinental climate.

The two main towns arePemberton and Manjimup.Pemberton has become oneof the most exciting of theState’s wine regions with theemergence of a distinctiveand beautifully elegant andrefined style of chardonnaystarting to be noticed.

In fact, many of the biggerWA wine producers and even

Cool-climate beautiesRAY JORDAN looks at one ofWA’s most exciting wine regions

Picture: Iain Gillespie

Noel and Kelly Burton and their daughterBree-Anna in Walpole. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Picture: Getty Im

ages

12 FRESH PLUS

Ranford Rd & Wright Rd, Harrisdale


SATURDAY 25 FEBRUARY AND TUESDAY 2 MAY

Royal galas will be first pick at the end ofthis month for second-generationorchardist Michael Fox, who is packagingthem up in new cartons with theR.K. & J. Fox & Son label co-branded withthe Genuinely Southern Forests logo tostand out on supermarket shelves.

“We used to sell all our apples in tubsbut these cartons present the fruit muchbetter and can be put straight on the shopshelf,” he said. “Royal galas are colouringup beautifully now because of the coolnights and that’s what gives them the nicered colour.”

The orchard called Brookside was firstplanted with apple trees in 1964 by MrFox’s father, Ron, 92, and is run with thehelp of Mr Fox’s wife, Kaye, and eldest sonMathew.

“We’ve pulled up the original trees andreplaced them with newer varieties, such askanzi, fuji and pink lady,” Mr Fox said.“There are still some golden delicious andred delicious left, but we’re phasing themout, though we’ll keep our granny Smiths.”

The orchard has switched to higherdensity plantings to facilitate treemaintenance, apple picking and netting,which minimises sun and hail damage tofruit and keeps birds away.

Mr Fox said royal galas, fujis and pinkladys were the most popular and he hasrecently planted kanzi, a cross betweenroyal gala and braeburn. Plantings of bravoare in the pipeline.

“Younger people tend to go for newervarieties,” he said. “Few will choose agranny to eat but they still have theirplace.”Olga de Moeller

Foxy new look

Ron Fox, centre, with grandsonMathew and son Michael at theirproperty. Picture: Iain Gillespie

1/477 Riverton Dr E, Riverton


SATURDAY 1 APRIL AND TUESDAY 16 MAY


For the intrepid winetourist, the SouthernForests region has plenty

to keep you busy, with manysmall cellar doors offeringwines that generally don’tmake it into the main storesand restaurants of Perth orother major regional towns.

In fact, it is one of the greatdisappointments that moreof these excellent wines don’tappear on liquor storeshelves. The wine quality isconsistently very good withthe region well suited to anumber of varieties becauseof the cooler, morecontinental climate.

The two main towns arePemberton and Manjimup.Pemberton has become oneof the most exciting of theState’s wine regions with theemergence of a distinctiveand beautifully elegant andrefined style of chardonnaystarting to be noticed.

In fact, many of the biggerWA wine producers and even

some of the smaller onesbased in other regions, aresourcing fruit fromPemberton for a specificstyle of elegant and refinedwine, both red and white.

Manjimup’s climate issimilar to that of Pembertonand, although only a smallregion, it produces excellentsauvignon blanc,chardonnay and merlot.

And pinot noir is a varietywell suited to both regions,with producers such asBatista Estate and Picardymaking some exceptionalexamples of this classicBurgundian variety in goodyears. In those good yearsthere is a level of intensityand power that issynonymous with the bestpinots, while at the sametime showing a velvetysoftness and fruitgenerosity.

This week I have includeda selection of wines in theregion.

Cool-climate beautiesRAY JORDAN looks at one ofWA’s most exciting wine regions

Picture: Iain Gillespie

HILLBROOK SAUVIGNONBLANC 2016 ($18)This variety has been the bigwinner for Hillbrook over theyears, with a number of showmedals. Not hard to see whywith this beautiful example ofa variety that does so well inPemberton. Gooseberry andherbal tones with light tropicalfruit and citrus tang. Just singsfrom the glass. 93/100

CLOCKWORK SAUVIGNONBLANC SEMILLON 2015 ($20)A precise and exquisitelycorrect interpretation of theWA style. Loaded withgooseberry and tropical fruitswith a splash of lemon and alittle grassy edginess. The fruitis sourced from Pembertonwhere savvy in particular doesreally well. Nice wine. 92/100

BELLARMINE HALF-DRYRIESLING 2015 ($24)Opens with a wonderful spicyaroma with a citrus mix oflemon and orange. It is sobeautifully compelling andengaging. The palate is slightlysweet, hence the nameHalf-Dry on the label, but thatis a spicy crisp acidity thatholds it to a narrow focus.Love this style whichBellarmine has been makingfor a while now. 93/100

PEMBERLEY CHARDONNAY2015 ($30)Mighty complex wine and it'snot hard to understand whywhen you find it gets 30 percent new French oak after thefive separate pickings over anumber of weeks to achievethe optimum ripeness andfruit flavours. Dense stone fruit

and cream with a peachycharacter. It is all naturallyfermented, pressed directly tooak. Very complete andintensely flavoured mouth feel.Has slightly savoury, smokybacon character on the palate.The acid is crisp and there isimpressive length. 94/100

WOODGATE TEMPRANILLO2014 ($25)Impressive tempranillo thathas a bit of European-likecharacter to it. It has thatsavoury sinewy feel in themouth to balance the fleshyprimary fruit. Balanced withgood tannin infusion andcleverly weighted oak. Thesweet plumpish middle palatefinishes with a nice drydustiness. Obviously, idealwith food. 91/100

CASTELLI CHARDONNAY 2015($34)This is sourced from vineyardsin Pemberton, an area that ismaking some of the finestchardonnays in the State.Opens with a compelling mixof grapefruit and cereal with atrace of stone fruit and slightcustard tart. The palatedelivers with a long sustainedrun to the finish packed withroasted nuts, grapefruit and acrunchy lemony zest.Brilliantly focused and long.95/100

PEOS ESTATE FOUR ACESCHARDONNAY 2014 ($35)One of the best chardonnaysyet from this excellent smallManjimup producer. Enticingmix of tasty cashew andnectarine aromas with somenice mealy influences. Thepalate has such poise and

expression with rich stone fruitheld with fine- grained oakand a spicy minerally acidity.Long finish. Like where it'sdrinking at this stage of itsjourney. 92/100

SMITHBROOK THE YILGARNBLANC DE BLANCS 2011 ($35)Impressive sparkling winemade from chardonnay grownon the Smithbrook property.Has had 36 months on lees, soyou are starting to see thatinteresting biscuit richness,while still retaining its keenfine edge that carries thefinish. Palate is developing abeautiful mix of meatinesswith some stone fruit yeastyautolysis. It's very good.93/100

JOHN KOSOVICH PEMBERTONVINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2015($35)There is a beautiful simplicityabout the winemaking atKosovich wines and yet thewines themselves are anythingbut simple. This comes fromtheir Pemberton vineyard.Strikes a great balancebetween the nutty stone-fruitcharacters of the fruit and thewell- weighted French oak.Crisp and tightly framed withgood depth of flavour. 91/100

ROBERT BOWEN PEMBERTONPINOT NOIR 2015 ($45)Another exquisite pinot noirfrom Bowen. Exotic spicynotes over the sour cherryaromas with raspberryconfectionary characters. Thepalate is still tight with a firmspine of fine tannins and acloak of oak holding a preciseline. Perfectly balanced.95/100


FRESH PLUS 15

Forest Fresh Marron distributor DaveEvans says simple is best when it comesto the region’s famous freshwater crayfishthat celebrated chef Paul Bocusedescribed as one of the world’sgreat tastes.

“Just boiled with some garlicbutter is best,” he said. “The fleshis very delicate and the flavourquite unique.”

He credits cooking programssuch as MKR for the big increasein demand since he bought thebusiness in 2010. It handles 4-5tonnes a year from growers and farmers, who bring them inlive.

The species is endemic to thesouth-west, between Harvey andAlbany, and ranges in colour from

jet black to chestnut brown or striped,red and cobalt blue.

“They bring them in 2-120kg lots,depending on whether someone’s pulled

them out of their dam or farmed them,”he said.

“Either way, you need an aquaculturelicence and we need more growers.”

According to the Marron GrowersAssociation WA, the number ofaquaculture licences for marronfarming has risen from about 30 in1994 to more than 250 today.

“Most of my wholesale stock goesto Margaret River and Perth but wesupply a few restaurants over eastand simply air freight them over,”he said.

“Retail stock is sold mainly tolocals and we do get a lot of touristswho come through and fall in lovewith the taste the first time they trythem.” Olga de Moeller

159 Onslow Rd, Shenton Park

Genuine fresh local produce now available from your local Greengrocer.

OPEN 24 HOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK

Ever bought a couple ofkiwifruit and beenthrilled with one but

disappointed with the other?Picking kiwifruit is intensive

and so they are picked justonce; this leaves room forinconsistency in the fruitripening because some areriper than others.

This inconsistency is set tochange as long-time potatogrowers Glen and Dean Ryan,along with father Tony,embark on a new productionventure into dori kiwifruit ontheir Manjimup property.

“With the deregulation ofthe potato system we havebeen looking for otheropportunities,” Glen said.

“Dori kiwifruit is an Italianvariety and has quite a goldflesh with good consistentcolour and taste.”

While not in Australia yet,the Ryans have already beenon a trip to Aprilia in Italy,where the climate is similar tothe Southern Forests, to talk

with growers and see the fruitin action. The rights to growdori kiwifruit are held by agroup of New Zealanders butregulation within the countrydoes not permit them toproduce it.

“One of the group’s farmmanager’s sisters lives inManjimup and mentioned hethought it would be a goodplace to grow the fruit so wegot to talking,” Glen said.

“It’s a case of they have therights, we have the land, sowhy not come together andproduce some great fruit.

“It’s going through abiosecurity process at themoment. We have plantedthe rootstock and so whenthe variety is released we’llthen be able to graft it on tothe rootstock, so it’s abouttwo years away.”

Mr Ryan said dori kiwisripen four to six weeks earlierthan the most commonhayward variety grown inNew Zealand so they could

get a jump on market share.New Zealand’s affiliation

with the Eastern States andSouth-East Asian marketswould be beneficial forexporting.

“It’s a slightlyunconventional way ofproducing the fruit but we’veseen it as a small windowwith great opportunities,” hesaid. Hermione Stott

Kiwifruit ishunky-dori

Dean and GlenRyan aretriallingkiwifruitproduction.Picture: IainGillespie

320 Cambridge St, Wembley




What started as aweekend-only hobbyorchard nearly 20

years ago with 3000 walnuttrees producing 1-2 tonneshas now blossomed into full-blown production of WA’sbest and only walnut supplier.

Owner and generalmanager Michael Williamssaid his Omega PremiumWalnuts family business, onthe picturesque banks of theBlackwood River in Nannup,had its first major harvest this

Walnut punt starts to bear fruitNiche nut business is crackingon, writes HERMIONE STOTT

Fresh Omega walnut.

Brenda Howlett, Dave Evans and his son Nick.Picture: Iain Gillespie

MKR-factor sends marron market wild

Take five with SteveVidovich, co-owner /director Blue RidgeMarronQ: How long does it take to grow a marron? A: Marron breed only once a year duringspring and can reach a saleable size ofaround 71-100g within 12 months. Marrongrown in purpose-built ponds are generallysold off at 2.5–3 years-old at which stage theywill be 150-300g in size. This means that amarron farmer needs to have three crops onthe go at any one time. In a good year we cansell 20 tonnes of marron which might bemore than 100,000 marron.Q: What species do you farm? A: Cherax cainii is the only species of marronwhich is farmed commercially for food. Theyare endemic to the South West of WAmaking them a truly unique product. Cheraxtenuimanus, the hairy cousin, is found only inthe Margaret River but is not farmedcommercially. Q: What’s the best way to eat them? A: Simple is best, well seasoned with a bit ofavocado in the summer or truffle in thewinter. On a recent trip to the river I cameacross a couple of characters out to catch afeed, in their kit bag they had a loaf of crustybread, a few beers and a jar of truffle aioli.Q: What is your biggest challenge? A: As marron don’t grow on trees, it isdifficult to know exactly what the harvest isgoing to look like when it comes in. Themarron might be bigger than we thought,less than we hoped or somewhere in between.There’s a lot of juggling involved in matchingdemand from very discerning customers witha somewhat unpredictable supply.Q: Is there anything new in the pipeline?A: As an industry we have a lot of work to do.We have some research underway lookinginto marron and variations in waterchemistry. We are also looking at feeding andnutrition as a means to improve production.

Q&A

Steve Vidovich, left, and Peter McGintyof Blue Ridge Marron, Manjimup.Picture: Iain Gillespie

Ancient gluten-free crop a family affair



159 Onslow Rd, Shenton Park

Genuine fresh local produce now available from your local Greengrocer.

OPEN 24 HOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK320 Cambridge St, Wembley




Growing buckwheat is a family tradition for formerpotato farmer John Della Franca, who has justharvested one of the world’s ancient crops that isoften called a grain but is actually a seed from aherbal grass related to sorrel and rhubarb.

It’s more nutritious than rice, millet and corn, has alow glycaemic index and, despite its name, is notrelated to wheat. Better still, buckwheat is gluten free,though packaging often carries a warning for coeliacsbecause of possible cross contamination duringprocessing.

“My grandfather bought the seed in 1926 and that’sthe one I grow,” Mr Della Franca said. “It’s a white-flowering nutty variety, which is different from theone coming in from China.

“I’m first-generation Australian but the family’soriginally from northern Italy and they eat this stuffon that side of the world. I’m also trialling apink-flowering variety from America but the flavour

isn’t as good. It’s taken a while to build up because Ionly had one handful of seed to start with.”

Sowing, harvesting and milling buckwheat was anannual tradition on the family farm his parents boughtin the 1950s just outside Pemberton, with plantings ofthe seed called grano saraceno in northern Italygradually increased as relatives and friends wantedmore.

Mr Della Franca is the only commercial producer inWA, growing 7ha on his portion of land.

“It yields only about 400kg to the hectare,” he said.“Last year I harvested about four tonnes and a lot of itgoes to restaurants. We grind it into flour and are inthe process of buying a de-hulling machine. When youtake off the husk, the seed is white.”

Flour is sold under the Karri Hill Buckwheat label.“I’ve also just started growing avocados and do

cattle with Mum,” he said.Olga de Moeller

What started as aweekend-only hobbyorchard nearly 20

years ago with 3000 walnuttrees producing 1-2 tonneshas now blossomed into full-blown production of WA’sbest and only walnut supplier.

Owner and generalmanager Michael Williamssaid his Omega PremiumWalnuts family business, onthe picturesque banks of theBlackwood River in Nannup,had its first major harvest this

financial year collecting 40tonnes from its current23,000 trees.

“It’s been challenging tosay the least,” said MrWilliams. “It’s been a lot ofresearch, many hard lessonslearned and realising thatwhat works over east doesnot mean it is going to workin the west.”

The results, however, arepaying off in spades. Whilestill a niche product (WebsterLimited’s Walnuts Australia isthe Southern Hemisphere'slargest walnut orchard andproduces between 6000 and9000 tonnes a year to put itinto perspective), Mr Williamssaid Omega’s productionwould rise to 350 tonnes ayear by 2020, withoutcompromising on quality.

“Because of our smallerproduction we are able tomodify our equipment tolessen the damage that canhappen to a walnut kernel,”he said. “Every time a walnutgets cracked there is achance its membrane, which

is responsible for keeping itfresh, can get damaged. If thishappens its oils oxidise andcreate a bitter taste.

“Everyone who eats ourwalnuts comments on thecreamy, smooth texture andflavour with zero bitter after-taste.”

Walnuts also havesignificant health benefits,according to Mr Williams.

“There is a certain ratio ofomega three and six that the

body needs and one walnuthas that balance,” he said.

“Studies have also shownthat they can reduce the riskof diabetes, lower cholesteroland increase cognitivefunction.”

Omega’s shelf life was alsoimpressive.

“Ours have an expiry date of12 months but stored properlyit’s really more like 18 — I havenuts from three years ago andthey still taste amazing.”

Walnut punt starts to bear fruitNiche nut business is crackingon, writes HERMIONE STOTT

FarmmanagerPaddyElphick ofOmegaWalnuts inManjimup.Picture:IainGillespie

‘Creamy,smoothtextureandflavourwith zerobitteraftertaste.’Fresh Omega walnut.

John Della Franca among his buckwheatcrop near Pemberton. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Take five with SteveVidovich, co-owner /director Blue RidgeMarronQ: How long does it take to grow a marron? A: Marron breed only once a year duringspring and can reach a saleable size ofaround 71-100g within 12 months. Marrongrown in purpose-built ponds are generallysold off at 2.5–3 years-old at which stage theywill be 150-300g in size. This means that amarron farmer needs to have three crops onthe go at any one time. In a good year we cansell 20 tonnes of marron which might bemore than 100,000 marron.Q: What species do you farm? A: Cherax cainii is the only species of marronwhich is farmed commercially for food. Theyare endemic to the South West of WAmaking them a truly unique product. Cheraxtenuimanus, the hairy cousin, is found only inthe Margaret River but is not farmedcommercially. Q: What’s the best way to eat them? A: Simple is best, well seasoned with a bit ofavocado in the summer or truffle in thewinter. On a recent trip to the river I cameacross a couple of characters out to catch afeed, in their kit bag they had a loaf of crustybread, a few beers and a jar of truffle aioli.Q: What is your biggest challenge? A: As marron don’t grow on trees, it isdifficult to know exactly what the harvest isgoing to look like when it comes in. Themarron might be bigger than we thought,less than we hoped or somewhere in between.There’s a lot of juggling involved in matchingdemand from very discerning customers witha somewhat unpredictable supply.Q: Is there anything new in the pipeline?A: As an industry we have a lot of work to do.We have some research underway lookinginto marron and variations in waterchemistry. We are also looking at feeding andnutrition as a means to improve production.

Q&A

Ancient gluten-free crop a family affair

16 FRESH PLUS

916 Canning Hwy, ApplecrossOPEN 24 HOURS 7 DAYS A WEEK


TUESDAY 28 FEBRUARY AND SATURDAY 3 JUNE

It’s all in the family for Pemberley ofPemberton, an award-winning vineyardmaking a mark with its sparkling winesin the heart of karri country.

David and Monica Radomiljac set itup from scratch, helped by their fourchildren on a generational farm that’sbeen in Mr Radomiljac’s family sincethe early 60s producing potatoes andbeef. Son Jordan, 29, has a degree inviticulture and has just returned hometo work full-time.

“We took on half the property in1995 and planted our first vines thatyear,” Ms Radomiljac said. “Currently,70 per cent is grapes and the restdivided between potatoes and beef.”

The vineyard, planted across a highopen ridge, produces about 1000tonnes of grapes a year and suppliesmany big players in the WA wine

industry. Plantings include chardonnay,sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, pinot grisand a smattering of Portuguese, Italianand Hungarian varieties, such asvermentino, tinta cao, touriga andharslevelu.

The family produces its own winesunder the Pemberley of Pembertonlabel, which includes a Broome-themedcollection, and some grapes are used bywinemaker Robert Bowen’s Domainesand Vineyards range.

“We love Broome and go there atleast annually, so we decided to create aniche market of great quality, easy-drinking wines with beautifuleye-catching labels that reflect thecolours and lifestyle of Broome-timeand the region loved by so manytourists,” Ms Radomiljac said. Olga de Moeller

David and Monica Radomiljac with their son Jordan. Picture: Iain Gillespie

Family’s sparkling future

We’ve been referred toas Asia’s garden withmuch of WA’s freshest

fruit and veg finding its wayon to overseas shelves.

Allstates Farm managingdirector John Da Silva, whohas been exporting producefor the past 20 years, has astrong focus on strawberrieswith farms in Wanneroo,Gingin and Manjimup andexports to places such asHong Kong, Mauritius andDubai. His son Paul is alsoinvolved in running theoperations.

He said brand awarenesshad been key in making hisexport business such asuccess and the GenuinelySouthern Forests campaignover the past few years hadproved fruitful.

“People are amazed at thequality of the strawberriesand they love knowing whereit came from,” he said.

“China is particularlyinterested but thoseinternational gates are notopen yet. They do get themthrough the back door inHong Kong but, by that time,they could be a week old andwe are all about freshness, soto be able to deal directwould be amazing foreveryone.”

Bunbury Farmers’ Marketdirector Kevin Opferkuch,who recently returned from atrip to China, said WA’s freshfood produce was consideredthe “Gucci” label of thesouthern hemisphere with aleaner, greener and morenutritious reputation.

“Dealing direct is difficultbecause of the free-tradeagreements and it’s allmoving much slower thananyone would like but thedemand is certainly there,” hesaid.

“While WA could not even

begin to fill the demand forChina’s 1.4 billion people, ourproduce is considered of avery high end and uniquequality.”

Mr Da Silva said WA hadsome of the best growingconditions in the world.

“We should be the gardenof Asia,” he said.

Top shelf WA grows the ‘Gucci’ of freshfood, hears HERMIONE STOTT

Paul Da Silva and his partner Kiara Marsh inManjimup. Picture: Iain Gillespie

‘Peopleareamazedat thequality.’

Take five with AlanaStarkie, co-owner,Sally’s LaneSparkling JuicesQ: How many varieties of sparklinggrape juice do you produce?A: We produce five varieties ofnon-alcoholic sparkling juice — muscat,taminga (an Australian-bred whitegrape), sauvignon blanc, verdelho andapple. We also produce a shiraz sparklingjuice but we are currently sold out.Q: How is it processed?A: We pick the grapes early in themorning so that they are very cold, andtransport them to our shed for crushingand pressing. Once we have the freshjuice in the tank we let it settle for 2-3days so that all the solids settle to thebottom, and then filter the clear juicefrom the top of the tank. The clear juiceis carbonated in a specially madepressure tank, bottled and capped byhand, and then gently pasteurised. Thewhole process from grape to bottle takesaround 7-10 days.Q: Where do you source your grapes?A: All of our grapes are sourced locallyfrom Manjimup, Pemberton andBridgetown vineyards. We work withShedley Wines, Pemberley Farms, andChestnut Grove as our suppliers ofpremium fruit. Our apples are alsosourced from local Manjimup orchards.Q: What is your biggest challenge?A: Our biggest challenge is working withfresh grape juice and making sure that itdoesn’t ferment before we get it into thebottle. Grapes naturally have yeast ontheir skins, which means as soon as youpick and crush them they want to startfermenting into wine, which is exactlywhat we don’t want.Q: Is there anything new in the pipeline?A: We have just had our first baby, Jack,so have our hands quite full at themoment, however in the next couple ofyears we want to experiment with newjuice flavours, grape varieties and typesof fruit (pears and cherries are definitelyon our radar).

Q&A

Alana Starkie. Picture: Iain Gillespie

THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2017

southern - the west australian · the southern forests has some of the best fresh food in the...

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