sophisticated primitive the catalog
DESCRIPTION
A collection of bespoke footwearTRANSCRIPT
The CaTalog
“i JusT love The enTire process of creaTing,
so i guess i’m “in ThaT mood” 95% of The day.”
meline kaTchi
02 MeeT KaTChI
Katchi
USe YoUR
haNDS“The New DeSIgNS aTTeMpT To CReaTe a haRMoNIoUS balaNCe beTweeN The exISTINg IDea of MaSCUlINITY aND feMININITY.”
.
01
Materials areSo IMpoRTaNT
“I’M CoNSTaNTlY ThINKINg, DRawINg aND TalKINg aboUT ShoeS. The MoRe I geT expoSeD To fooTweaR The MoRe I love IT.”
MaTeRIalS
Selecting MaTeRIalSA cotton threAd with A polyeSter core which iS Slightly
Stretchy but retAinS the trAditionAl looK of cotton
03 MaN SaNDal
Mfor the ‘Man’ SaNDal
he wAnted to looK cASuAl chic, yet retAin hiSSenSe of MASculinity
oh man
walkthe
walk...a DIffeReNT peRSpeCTIve To whaT The ‘MaSCUlINe’ Male poRTRaYS hIMSelf aS
The ‘MoDeRN MaN’.he MaKeS a bolD STaTeMeNT bY weaRINg TheSe SaNDalS aND DoeSN’T RegReT IT
oNe bIT.
04 MaN SaNDal
Using the principiles of fine tailoring, folding, drap-ing, and rearranging inspired by Mr. Georgiou. The design strengths are evident in the final Man SAN-Dal
”MultidiMenSionAl” by Sotiris georgiou
11 haND MaDe
the entire collection was conceived after an urban observation.
flexibility, security, geometry, symmetry and rhythm
Spring 2012
“I haD No IDea ThaT DeSIgNINg CoUlD be SUCh a ThRIll, aND M.KaTChI MaKeS IT looK So eaSY.” _MoNIqUe aDINa _IN-DepeNDeNT faShIoN bloggeR
05 MaN SaNDal
Slip on & SaNDal
06 MaN SaNDal
“The aesTheTic of The line is ‘refined simpliciTy.’ The rich maTerials and color
paleTTe allow The shoe To work as a funcTional arT piece. The sophisTicaTed
primiTive man or woman is a personificaTion of The
way my parTner and i build The sopr design language. They’re liTerally made on The fooT, so There is never
a separaTion beTween funcTion and design.”
uni_sex i SaNDalthese uni_sex sandals are made from a
Simplified pattern which are perforated for breathability and texture
08 bReaThe
uni_sex i SaNDalperforation allows for light and air to pass through
and creates an aesthetic design.
TRIo
three Spike SaNDalSoft MAteriAlS uSed to conStruct thiS SAndAl Are
purely repropoSed
TRIo
raw leaTheRS
bY TaKINg USefUl pRoDUCTS aND exChaNgINg TheM, wIThoUT RepRoCeSSINg, ReUSe help Save TIMe, MoNeY, eNeRgY, aND ReSoURCeS.
10 Raw hYDe
trio SaNDalre purpoSing iS to uSe A tool for uSe AS Another tool, uSuAlly
for A purpoSe unintended by the originAl tool-MAKer.
STep
Step down TaIloRthiS pArticulAr deSign wAS creAted
right on the Very foot of the Model. tAlK About A perfect fit
STep
haND SeleCTeD aND STITCheD SUeDeS CoMbINeD w_ vaCheTTa leaTheR TRIM. The SaTURaTeD golD ToNeD haRDwaRe IS The peRfeCT CoMplIMeNT.
tailor MaDe
11 haND MaDe
Selecting a unique color palette is essential when your hardware color is preselected. Here I chose to use gold toned hardware and exaggerate its Potential though these warm tones.
ripe pomogranate
dry sage
ruch plum
Autum orange
12 haND MaDe
classique SaNDaluSing priMitiVe deSignS AS the bASe of the
foundAtion & Adding Modern hArdwAre for SophiSticAtion
The de_saturated hues of this sandal were complimented by a small pop of color from the robust thread tones.Although these are the classic shaped sandal they are bold in their style.
13 haND MaDe
haIR
human hair SaNDalthe preMiSe with thiS SAndAl wAS to uSe A
AlternAtiVe MAteriAl which iS eXtreMely under uSed yet, ViAble
haIR
13a haND MaDe
inspirationfloRIaN DovIlleZ haTS
experimenting w_ 100% human hair
CaN ThIS MaTeRIal fUSeD w_ ReSIN & IRoNeDbeCoMe STRoNg eNoUgh To CReaTe a Shoe wITh?
haIR haS gReaT SoCIal SIgNIf-ICaNCe foR hUMaN beINgS.
14 haND MaDe
“haIR gRowTh begINS INSIDe The haIR
follICle. The oNlY “lIvINg” poRTIoN of The haIR IS foUND
IN The follICle. The haIR ThaT IS vISIble IS The haIR ShafT,
whICh exhIbITS No bIoCheMICal aCTIvITY
aND IS CoNSIDeReD “DeaD”. The baSe of The RooT IS CalleD
The bUlb.”
So so pRIMITIve
haIR IS a fIlaMeNToUS bIoMaTeRIal, ThaT gRowS fRoM follICleS foUND IN The DeRMIS
Feughelman, Max Mechanical prop-erties and structure of alpha-keratin fibres: wool, human hair and related fibres, Sydney, UNSW Press (1996) ISBN 0868403598
100%hUMaNhaIR
hUMaN haIR waS INCoRpoRaTeD IN jewelRY SINCe The laTe 18Th CeNTURY IN MeMeNTo MoRI pIeCeS, To ReMeMbeR a loveD oNe.
15 haND MaDe
16 haND MaDe
lets just sayIT woRKeD
haIRwoRK waS aS popUlaR aS CRoCheTINg oR TaTTINg IN The laTe 1850’S. VIcTorIAN HAIrWork SerVed NoT oNlY aS a MeMeNTo To ReMeMbeR The DeaD, bUT alSo aS “love ToKeNS” .
TSle
exposing whIMISICal TaSSelScreating a uniform pattern, which can comfortably
form to the male and female foot
TSle
16b haND MaDe
tassel TReNDSinspired by the d.i.y. Seasonal trend of tassel
These swingy accessories are elegant and fun and full of whimsy
lets just sayITS oN TReND
afTeR beINg feaTUReD heavIlY oN The Sp 2011 RUNwaYS, TaSSelS have beCoMe a boNa fIDe SUMMeR TReND. TheSe oRNaTe eMbellIShMeNTS CaN be foUND oN belTS & pURSeS To bloUSeS.
over the course of a few weekends, M.Katchi, 1/2 of the genius design team behind Sophisticated primitive, and i put our creative minds together and produced two stellar and uber chic sandals.
As a woman obsessed with
shoes, this opportunity was a dream. getting to design my own sandals alongside
one of the most creative and
gracious women i’ve met to date was amazing.
leInterview
and produced two stellar and uber
18 le INTeRvIew
tassel SaNDalbehind the ShoeS of Meline KAtchi
le Interview
19 CUSToM foR YoU
“oNe of The gReaTeST NeCeSSITIeS IN aMeRICa IS To DISCoveR CReaTIve SolITUDe.”_CaRl SaNDbURg
20 CReaTINg
Shoe obSSeSSeD
haND DRawINg aND CUTTINg The paTTeRN aS I aM IN The CReaTIve pRoCeSS allowS foR peRfeCTINg The‘CobbleRS’ pRoCeSS.
TeSTINg The Shape aND CoN-fIgURaTIoN of The CloSURe oN The fooT ITSelf IS KeY IN CReaTINg a CoheSIve DeSIgN.
Ω
the most STYlISh MaNcreating a uniform pattern, which can comfortably
form to the male and female foot
Ω
The UppeR CReaTeD heRe IS haND CUT fRoM oNe paTTeRN whICh CaN be STReTCheD oveR The fooT aND STRappeD oN To CReaTe a vaRYINg aeSTheTIC.
So so MSaCUlINe
22 haND MaDe
So so harris
below aRe The ChoICeS of ColoRS whICh ThIS SINgle ‘UppeR’ paTTeRN CaN be CUT oN agaIN aND agaIN.
23 whaT ColoR IS Me
Man SaNDalthiS iS Another VerSion of the uni_SeX SAndAl
which iS AgAin puShing the boundArieS of’ SiMpliStic’ deSign
So much ColoR
ColoR haRMoNY DelIveRS vISUal INTeReST aND a SeNSe of oRDeR. haRMoNY IS SoMeThINg ThaT IS pleaSINg To The eYe.
tAnning & leAther finiShing
24 whaT ColoR
1810 goeThe
“wheN MaSCUlINe IS USeD To DeSCRIbe MeN, IT CaN have
DegReeS of CoMpaRISoN—MoRe
MaSCUlINe, MoST MaSCUlINe. The
oppoSITe CaN be expReSSeD bY TeRMS
SUCh aS UNMaNlY. a TYpICal NeaR-
SYNoNYM of MaSCUlINITY IS
vIRIlITY.
roget’s II: The New Thesaurus, 3rd. ed., Houghton Mifflin, 1995.
25 STYlISh STepS
rich colorsoNe paTTeRN
MeN ThRoUghoUT hISToRY have goNe To MeeT exaCTINg CUlTURalSTaNDaRDS of whaT IS CoNSIDeReD aTTRaCTIve.
photography by tara Minshull
looking so ShaRp
MoDeRNITY aIMeD TowaRDS “a pRogReSSIve foRCe pRoMISINg To lIbeRaTe hUMaNKIND fRoM IgNoRaNCe ANd IrrATIoNAlITy” (roSeNAU 1992, 5).
26 IM heRe
“dramatic simplicity” of the day-wear of couturier
STUD
uni_sex STUDDeD SaNDal“dramatic simplicity” of the day-wear of couturier
STUD
So so UNI_Sex
U·NI·Sex_ of, DeSIgNeD, oR SUITable foR boTh SexeS; NoT DISTINgUIShINg beTweeN Male aND feMale; UNdIFFereNTIATed AS To Sex:
28 Me aND YoU
uni_sex SaNDalone SiMply cut yet preciSe
pAttern which coMpliMentS feMAle/MAle
29 jUST The 2 of US
THIS PARTICULAR SANDAL WAS PURELY CONSTRUCTED FROM RE PURPOSED/ DISCARDED LEATH-ERS.
CRoC
bold & beaUTIfUlpairing robust leathers and colors with rustic gold to create a chic/modern look
CRoC
31 STep IN
croc SaNDaleXotic SKinS JuXtApoSed with A electric blue
Suede creAte A drAMAtic bold StAteMent.
croc SaNDaluSing luXuriouS croc JuXtApoSed with
A VibrAnt electric blue Suede
32 oh MY CRoC
croc SaNDalbold And teXtured uSing nAturAl toneS
AS well AS rich/ bold colorS
creating a uniform pattern, which can comfortably form to the male and female foot
STUD
uni_sex STUDDeD SaNDalcreating a uniform pattern, which can comfortably
form to the male and female foot
STUD
edgy UNI_Sex
34 pUNK baCK
The aesthetic of the line is ‘refined simplicity.’ The rich materials and color palette allow the shoe to work as a
functional art piece. TheSophisticated Primitive man
or woman is a Personification of the way my partner and I build the SoPr
design language. our new designs attempt to create a
harmonious balance between the existing idea of masculin-
ity and femininity.
Photography by Monique Adina
35 CReaTINg
So so pRIMITIve
They’re literally made on the foot, so there is never a separation between function and design. attempt to create a harmonious balance between the existing idea of masculinity and femininity
USeD
re_purpused ReUSeDcreating a uniform pattern, which can comfortably
form to the male and female foot
USeD
“USINg IRRegUlaR MaTeRIalS foUND
IN DISCaRDeD bINS & haRDwaRe ReMoveD
fRoM DISCaRDeD haNDbagS.
haND_CUTTINg The SKINS & haND
paINTINg eaCh pIeCe of leaTheR To
CReaTe a CoMpleTe looK. ThIS Shoe haS
a SIDe TIe CloSURe allowINg foR
aDjUSTabIlITY baSeD oN The weaReRS
aNKle SIZe.”
36 haND MaDe
re_purposed SaNDalphotogrAphy by tArA MinShull
primitive YeT TReNDYconcept: take a primitive sandal design and
combine it with the rich trends seen in the high street as well as ready to wear
So so pRIMITIve
The woRD SaNDal DeRIveS fRoM The gReeK woRD SaNDaloN.
37 ClaSSIC
S
TeCh
re_purpused ReUSeDfused deposition modeling (fdM) is used in traditional rapid prototyping
TeCh
39b 3_d PrINTedfRee haND DRawINg befoRe CReaTINg THe Model IN 3_d IS eSSeNTIAl To THe DeSIgNeR.
initial drawings from sketchbookMArKer. pen. Acrylic. tApe
the floAting heelSolidworKS iS A pArASolid-bASed Solid Modeler & utilizeS A
pArAMetric feAture-bASed ApproAch to creAte ModelS.
39 3_d PrINTed
bUIlDINg a MoDel IN SolIDwoRKS USUallY STaRTS wITh a 2D SKeTCh
ThIS hIgh heel IS STaCKeD ABoUT 6 1/2 INcHeS HIGH WITH A 2 1/2 INcH PlATForM. THe PlAT-foRM haS a floaTINg ball INSIDe ITS STRUCTURe.
40 The MoNSTeR
“ThIS Shoe waS CReaTeD aND
deVeloPed oN A 3_d pRogRaM TheN laTeR
pRINTeD IN STaRCh WITH A 3_d PrINTer. The fabRICaTIoN of
ThIS IS aMaZINg beCaUSe IT allowS
foR DeTaIleD ‘SCUlpTURal’
pRoToTYpeS foR fUNCTIoNal
fooTweaR. aS IS Now IT IS ‘oNe of a KIND’.’
41 DoMINaTe
42 DoMINaTe
the process of creating the prototype to check for sizing and general measurements.
3-d
3_d pRINTeDthe process of creating the prototype to check for sizing and
general measurements.
3-d
3-d PrINTING IS A PHrASe USed To deScrIBe The pRoCeSS of CReaTINg ThRee DIMeNSIoNal objeCTS fRoM DIgITal fIle USINg a MaTeRIalS pRINTeR, IN a MaNNeR SIMIlaR To pRINTINg IMageS oN papeR.
44 3_d PrINTed
45 3_d PrINTed
Tcovered TRaNSfoRMeR
thiS wAS A purely conceptuAl Shoe. creAtedto tryconfiguring An AdJuStAbility SySteM
thAt would Allow it to be reSizAble.
ThIS Shoe SaMple waS MaDe IN SolIdWorkS & 3_d PrINTed IN A MaTeRIal CalleD fDM. objeCT pRINT, IS able To aCCepT hIgheR ToleRaNCeS aND MaINTaINS The pReCISIoN of ITS INTeNDeD foRMS.
46 eND of The RoaD
Tthank YoU So MUCh
hope you enJoyed the Show.
Sophisticated Primitiveis a collaboration between designers
MELINE KATCHI&
MESROP MEGRABYAN