skin products neil watson the body shop [email protected]
TRANSCRIPT
Formulating cleansing products
Formulating moisturising products
Control of body odour and sweat
Sun Protection
Removal of unwanted hair
Cleansing products
• Product types Soap. (Superfatted soap, Transparent/ Glycerin soap,
Translucent/ pearlised soap, Combo Bars (Dove Beauty Bar, Syndet bars.)
Emulsions. (Creams, Lotions, Milk, Cold Cream, Rinse –off emulsions (foaming cleansers)). Liquid synthetic detergents. Gels. (Surfactant, basic viscous lotion). Wipes. Masks. Mousse. Scrubs. Toners.
Skin types
Dry skin
Normal/Combi skin
Oily skin
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Moisturising Products
Formulating moisturising products
Emollients– An emollient is a material which, when applied
to the skin makes it feel soft and smooth.
Humectants– These exhibit hygroscopic behaviour, they can
draw in and hold onto large amounts of water.
What makes a good moisturiser?
You need to understand the skin type you are formulating for.
You need to understand target area It should feel nice on application, not too
greasy. It shouldn’t ‘soap up’ It should smell nice, or have no base odour
Additives
Natural additives Hydroxyacids Vitamins EFAs Polysaccharides Delivery vehicles – liposomes,
encapsulates
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Control of body odour and sweating
Sweat
Apocrine – contains proteins and amino acids- Main source of nutrients for bacteria
Eccrine – salt and water
Formulations
3 actions Odour modification – deodorising action or
masking– Fragrance
Odour removal – washing
Odour prevention – anti-perspirants– Aluminum Chlorohydrate– Aluminum zirconium Chlorohydrate
Product formats
Roll-on – good skin contact, efficacy» Might pull your hair, longer drying time
Aerosol – quick drying time» Hygienic
Stick - good skin contact, efficacy» Poor hygiene profile
Cream – excellent skin contact» messy
Efficacy testing
Olfactory Sniff test – trained noses
Gravometric Controlled conditions Weighing the amount of sweat At least 20% reduction in sweat levels in treated
versus untreated
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Sun protection
Suncare products
How does sunlight affect the skin?– Tanning through darkening of melanin
precursors– Skin damage – sunburn, premature ageing,
skin cancer
• Free radicals
UVA & UVB light
UVA – (320-400nm)Responsible for long term damage
Can penetrate glass
UVB – (290-320nm)Causes sunburn (erythema)
Sunscreens
A Sunscreen is the UV light absorbing agent that helps to lower the incidence of dermal malignancies. The function of the sunscreen is the protection of the skin from damaging UV light.
Physical sunscreens Chemical Sunscreens
SPF calculations and star rating
SPF = Time to produce erythema in protected skin Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin
Star Rating = mean UVA/UVB ratio– 0 to <0.2 too low to make UVA claim
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Hair Removal
How do we remove hair?
Mechanical– Tweezing– Threading– Electrical epilation– Electrolysis– Sugaring – Waxing– Shaving
Chemical– Thiglycollates– Enzymes
Epilation & Depilation
Epilation – is a process of hair removal from below the skin’s surface
Depilation – is a process of the temporary removal of hair from the surface of the skin.
Shaving
Wet shave Soften hair Mechanical removal
Dry shave Reducing friction on skin
Depilatories
Thyoglycollate– Work by breaking the disulphide linkages in the
keratin hair fibres, and totally disintegrate the hair
Enyzme based– These contain protein-digesting enzymes
(papain is a good example. Treat the empty hair follicle to reduce hair growth over a number of months