six and seventhousanders of the tien shan and the pamirs

YEVGENIY GIPPENREITERVLADIMIR SHATAEV

Six and Seventhousandersof the TIen Shan and the Pamirs

The mountains of the Tien Shan and Pamirs comprise four summitsabove 7000m and 135 summits above 6000m. When these summits

were first climbed their local names were sometimes ignored. It also usedto happen that subsidiary summits were reported as if they were mainsummits, which added to the confusion. For the first time an attempt hasbeen made to catalogue these summits. The list is dated I January 1994and the names have either been taken from maps or from the OfficialClassification Table of mountain summits of the country.

Subsidiary summits are given in italics below the name of the mainsummit. Earlier names, or those suggested by first ascensionists, are givenin brackets. It will be seen from the list that several summits are still awaitinga first ascent.

Tien ShanThere is a high mountain ridge in the Tien Shan named Meridional Range.It stretches from north to south for about 110km and numbers 17 summitsabove 6000m. It is joined by the three main latitudinal ridges of the CentralTien Shan: namely Sarydshaz, Tengri-Tag and Kokshaal-Too. These ridgesreach the Meridional ridge from the west, cross it and continue eastwardsinto China.

Sarydshaz ridge separates the valley of the Northern Inylchek glacierfrom the upper reaches of the Sarydshaz river and the Tedes river basin. Itsmain summit is Pik Semyonov (5816m).

Another latitude ridge is Tengri-Tag which has three summits andseparates the valleys of the Nand S Inylchek glaciers. Tengri-Tag ridgestarts 15krn from the snout of the SInylchek glacier; its steep rocks resemblethe prow of a ship and are known as 'the battleship'. The ridge then soarsto a great height. Its main summits are Pik Petrovski (5860m), Pik Gorki(6050m), Pik Chapaev (6371) and Khan Tengri (6995m).

The southernmost and longest ridge of the Tien Shan is named KokshaalToo which has four summits and serves as a border between Kyrgyzstanand China.

122

HIGH PEAKS OF THE TIEN SHAN AND THE PAMIRS 123

The PamirsSituated between the Tien Shan and the Central Asian mountain ranges,the Pamirs are bounded to the north by the Trans-Alai ridge and to thesouth by the base of the Hindu Kush; their western border goes along thevalley of the Pyandzh river and the upper reaches of Amu Darya (Oxus),and their eastern boundary is formed by the Kashgar ridge. The main partof the Pamirs belongs to Tajikistan, the Southern Pamirs belongs toAfghanistan, while the Kashgar mountains are in Chinese territory.

The Trans-Alai ridge has 23 summits stretching from the confluence ofthe Kyzylsu and Mukhsu rivers in the west to Pik Otchailo in the east onthe border with China. The ridge consists of three sections separated fromeach other by two relatively gently sloping passes: Tersagar (3513m) in thewest and Kyzylart (4280m) in the east. The highest sections of the ridge liebetween these two passes, with Pik Lenin (7134m) at its highest point,followed by Pik Kurumdy (661Om) to the east and an unnamed peak(5705m) to the west.

South of the Trans-Alai ridge, and branching out from its three sections,are three meridional ridges named the Academy of Sciences, Zulumartand Sarykol. These ridges are the most important orographic features ofthe Pamirs. Joining the latitudinal ridges, they act as the main watershedsbetween river basins. Moreover, the first two form barriers against humidair masses, creating favourable conditions for the formation of extensiveglaciation.

The principal watershed ridge of the Pamirs is Zulumart ridge whichhas three summits and reaches a height of 6396m. It divides the basins ofMuksu river and Karakul lake. The Zulumart ridge runs southwards fromthe centre of the Trans-Alai ridge, near Pik Lenin, to the Kokuibel pass.

The Academy of Sciences ridge is joined in the west by the mighty rangesof the NW Pamirs. The most northerly of these is Peter the First ridge, withseven summits. South of that ridge is the three-summited Darvaz ridgewhose northern slopes have big spurs, covered with heavy modern glacierformations, which are quite Alpine in character. Further south again isthe Vanch ridge which runs in a SW direction from the sources of theFedchenko glacier and serves as a watershed for the rivers of the Vanchand Yazgulem ridges. Its medium altitude is considerably lower than thatof surrounding ridges.

Yazgulem ridge, with 22 summits, forms the most southerly section ofthe mountain ranges that abut the Academy of Sciences ridge. Its easternend is fringed with the sources of the Fedchenko and Grumm-Ghzhimailoglaciers. Its highest point is 6974m (Pik Revolutsii). The western part ofthis ridge serves as a watershed between Yazgulem and Bartanga ridges.

Muzkol ridge is situated to the east of Yazgulem ridge and has ninesummits. It runs in a latitudinal direction from the South Akbaital valleyto the confluence of the Murgab and Kudara rivers. Its highest points,above 6000m, are all at its eastern end.

124 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1996

To the south of the Muzkol and Yazgulem ridges, between two valleylakes - Sarez and Yashilkul - lies one of the most massive ridges of thePamirs. It is called Rushanski in the west and Bazardarinski in the east.The highest part of the ridge lies to the west, where Pik Patkhor rises to6080m. The South-Alichur ridge at about 5000m is a watershed for theAlichur and Pamirs rivers. The Shakhdaryinski ridge is a watershed betweenthe Pyandzh and Shakhdara. Its high altitude, above 6000m, results inlarge-scale development of glaciers and fim fields. Situated in the extremeSW Pamirs, the Shakhdaryinski ridge is separated from the mighty rangesof Hindu Kush by the deep gorge of the Pyandzh river. Its twin-summitedmeridional section is named Ishkashimski ridge and its main latitudinalsection, comprising twelve 6000m summits, is named Shakhdaryinski ridge.

6000m and 7000m Peaksof the Tien Shan and the Pamirs

Abbreviations:P for PamirsTSH for Tien ShanT for Tajikistan

KazKyrCh

for Kazakhstanfor Kyrgyzstanfor China

Heights are given in metres above sea level. Main summits are in bold type.A hyphen before a name denotes that it is not an autonomous summit.Former names, or those proposed by the first climbers, are given in brackets.

Height Peak Country Region Ridge Leader of 1st ascentand the year

7495 Kommunizma T P Academy E Abalakov, 1933(Garmo, Sta1ina) of Sciences

7001 - Bolshoi Barier K Kuzmin, 19577439 Pobeda Kyr TSH Kokshaal- V Aba1akov, 1956

(Khan Tengri, Ukr. TooNIl geografii i karto-grafii, Sakko iVan-cetti,Zvezdochka,20-letia Komsomola)

6918 - Western o Khazaradze, 1961(Vazha Pshave1a)

6762 - Eastern I Erokhin, 19587134 Lenina Kyr P Trans-Alai E Allwein, 1928

(Kaufmana)7105 Evgenii Korzh- T P Academy A Ugarov, 1953

enevskoi of Sciences6782 - Western D Guschin, 19376995 Khan Tengri Kaz/Kyr TSH Tengri- M Pogrebetski, 1931

Tag



6974 Revolutsii T P Yazgu- A Ugarov, 1954(TrekhgIavyi, lemskiDreispitz)

6900 - Central S Savvon, 19606850 - Southern S Savvon, 19606596 - 2nd Southern S Savvon, 1960

(Tumannyi)6500 - North-Eastern E Schneider, 1928

(Khimik) P Skorobogatov, 19546875 Rossii T P Academy M Gvarliani, 1955

(Molotov, of SciencesAlpenverein)

6873 Voennykh topo- Kyr/Ch TSH Meridional A Vododokhov, 1965grafov

6816 - Western I Erokhin, 19586842 Marshal Zhukov T P Trans-Alai K Kuzrnin, 1958

(50 years annivers-ary of Soviet State)

6335 - Southern A Piankov, 1967(Aviastroitelei)

6841 Izvestia T P Academy V Elchibekov, 1964of Sciences

6603 - Western o Bragin, 1961(Pionerskaja Pravda)

6834 26 Baku Commissars T P Yazgulem- E Allwein, 1926(Broad HornlShiroki ski E Tamrn, 1957

Rog/Breithom)6050 - Northern Y Dobrynin, 1960

(Peredovoi)6814 Rapasov Kyr/Ch TSH Meridional A Novikov, 19886800 Druzhba Kyr/Ch TSH Meridional A Nozdrjukhin, 1953

(Sovetski Uzbekistan)6785 Moskva T P Peter the 1st I Bogachev, 1959

(Sidov)6725 - Western D Oboladze, 19566046 - South-Eastern Sh Mirianash-

(Soyuz-Appolon) viii, 19756780 Octjabrski T P Zulumartski E Beletski, 19556742 Nehru Kyr/Ch TSH Kokshaal- V Ivanov, 1970

(Sovetski Sport) Too6723 Karl Marx T P Shakhdary- E Beletski, 1946

(Tsar Mirotvorets) inski6340 - Northern M Gvarliani, 1964

(Nikoladze)6718 Fikker (Meteor) T P Yazgulem- V Nozdrjukhin, 1959

ski6150 - Western A Shukurov, 1962

(Soviet Cosmonauts)6717 Dzerzhinski T/Kyr P Trans-Alai E Beletski, 1936

(Lagarsed)



6683 Kyzylagyn T/Kyr P Trans-Alai V Elchibekov, 19566624 - Eastern V Litvinov, -6673 Edinstva T P Trans-Alai E Beletski, 19556645 Akhmadi Donish T P Academy V Abalakov, 1959

(Voroshilov) of Sciences6641 Zetkin T P Academy V Bozhukov, 1968

of Sciences6637 Shater (Yuan) Kyr/Kaz TSH Meridional B Studenin, 19686637 - Western (50 years B Efimov, 1964

of Komsomol)6612 Karpinski T P Academy A Borovikov, 1966

(Komintern, of SciencesAcademician Komarov)

6610 Kurumdy T/Kyr P Trans-Alai- Western E Timashev, 1932

6602 Garmo T .. P Darvazski A Bagrov, 1948(Darvaz, Kaganovich)

6595 Khokhlov T P Academy Y Borodkin, 1968of Sciences

6565 Nagel Kyr/Ch TSH Meridional V Khrischaty, 19906565 Tajikistan T P Shakhdary- V Sawon, 1962

inski6300 - Southern VLaukhin, 19726551 6551 T/Kyr P Trans-Alai no information6537 Chetyre bogatyrja Kyr/Ch TSH Kokshaal- V Glukhov, 1972

(In memory of TooSojuz-l0 crew)

6527 Pogrebetski Kyr TSH Meridional E Streltsov, 1980(Soviet Uzbekistan)

6525 Grin T P Yazgulem- V Serebriakov, 1960ski

6150 - Northern M Levin, 1968(Paustovski)

6510 Engels T P Shakhdary- M Gvarliani, 1954(Czarina Pik) inski

6318 - Southern YYakovenko, 1964(40 years of Ukranian

Komsomol)6509 Kalinin T P Academy K Kuzmin, 1972

of Sciences6507 Leningrad T P Peter the 1st K Kuzmin, 1972

(Zinaida Krylenko)6500 Rossiyskoe geogra- Kaz/Ch TSH Meridional B Solomatov, 1974

ficheskoe obschestvo-RGO(Nikolai Mikhailovichl100 years of VGOILetuchaja mysh)

6450 - Northern B Solomatov, 1974(Grudzinski)



6485 6485 T P Academy no informationof Sciences

6457 6457 T P Academy V Kovtun, 1981of Sciences

6450 Przhevalski Kaz/Ch TSH Meridional Y Popenko, 19746447 30 Years of Soviet T P Peter the 1st E Abalakov, 1947

State (Sulimov)6000 - Western A Sidorenko, 1947

(Panoramny)6446 AbalakovE. T P Peter the 1st K Kuzmin, 1959

(Enukidze)6445 Patriot T P Academy B Garf, 1950

(Tron Petra Velikogo) of Sciences6445 6445 T P Academy no information

of Sciences6419 Krylenko N. T P Yazgulem- V Zetlin, 1960

(Dorofeev) ski6100 - Western G Yazovskikh, 1967

(Vasiljev D.)6419 Kommunisticheskaja T P Academy A Pjankov, 1965

Akademia of Sciences6370 - Southern A Pjankov, 19656403 Sovetskih alpinistov T P Yazgulem- K Kuzmin, 1954

(Czechoslovatsko- skiSovetskoi druzhby)

6401 Demchenko M. Kyr/Ch TSH Meridional B Romanov, 1964(Torez M.)

6400 Mramornaya Stena Kaz/Ch TSH Meridional V Shipilov, 19536200 - Northern (Plato) V Naumenko, 19466389 Oshanin T P Peter the 1st L Lozovski, 1975

(Varvara Yakovleva)6305 - Eastern L Lozovski, 19756181 - Western L Lozovski, 1975

(Rodionov)6175 - 2nd Western D Dangadze, 1976

(XXV Party Congress)6372 Kirov T P Peter the 1st V Rusanov, 1970

(Kaganovich)6372 Pravda T P Academy M Gvarliani, 1955

of Sciences6371 Chapaev (Kosior) Kyr TSH Tengri-Tag I Tjutjunnikov, 19376365 Ordzhonikidze T P Academy o Aristov, 1937

of Sciences6354 Parizhskaja kommuna T P Yazgulem- V Benkin, 1957

ski6002 - Eastern V Ryazanov, 1964

(Amosov/Marichka)6350 Chalsol T P Yazgulem- K Muru, 1982

(Tartusski Universitet) ski6350 Vosmi alpinistok Kaz/Ch TSH Meridional B Solomatov, 1974



6325 Vasilevski T P Academy V Pushkarev, 1974of Sciences

6315 OmarKhayam T P Yazgulem- o Bragin, 1960ski

6025 - 1st Western V Serebvriakov,(Dokuchaev) 1960

5798 - 2nd Western Y Oparin, 1968(Molodykh Vysotnikov)

6305 6305 T P Trans-Alai no information6300 Valikhanov Kyr TSH Meridional no information6300 Vysokaya Stena T P Yazgulem- no information

ski6289 Muzdzhilga (Gou) T P Academy V Abalakov, 1955

of Sciences6283 6283 T/Kyr P Trans-Alai no information6277 Muzkulak (Parrot) T . P Yazgulem- A Lykhmus, 1982

ski6265 Revvoensovet T P Academy E Tamm, 1961

(RKKA/Krasnoi Armii) of Sciences6254 Shipka T P Yazgulem- N Kharechko,

ski 19686251 Rakzou T P Yazgulem- no information

ski6248 6248 T P Zulumart- K Kuzmin, 1955

(Sovetskaja Gruziya) ski6240 TurkVO T/KYR P Trans-Alai E Nagel, 19566236 Al-Biruni (Korolev) T P Yazgulem- A Vakhmenin,

sli 19686233 Sovetskikh Ofizerov T P Muzkolski V Strygin, 19886232 Yakir T P Academy I Korkin, 1966

of Sciences6230 Chetyrekh T P Academy 1933

of Sciences6222 Leningradski T P Shakhdary- V Tikhonravov,

Gosuniversitet -LGU inski 19585750 - Northern I Geldiashvili,

19836213 Latvia T/Kyr P Trans-Alai E Imants, 19606210 Zhebetau (Zorge) Kyr TSH Meridional V Kochnev, 19646207 6207 T P Academy no information

of Sciences6205 Turist Kyr/Ch TSH Kokshaal- V Glukhov, 1972

(Zatonski/Dybenkol skiSAVO)

6205 Krasnoyarsk T P Trans-Alai V Svetlakov, 1978(Poronin)

6203 Rudaki T P Darvazski D Medzmariash-viii, 1957

6202 Estonia T/Kyr P Trans-Alai P Varep, 19606201 Shipilov Kyr TSH Meridional no information



6200 Snezhnaya Skazka Kyr TSH Meridional V Khrishchaty, 19906200 Raikova T P Muzkolski A Bleschunov, 19406189 Kuibyshev T P Peter the 1st K Kuzmin, 19576183 Tajikski Gosudars- T P Shakhdary- S Savvon, 1961

tvennyi Universitet- inskiTGU

6183 Spartak T P Trans-Alai V Abalakov, 19606181 Aktau Kyr TSH Meridional TKim, 19926179 Boryschiysa Vietnam T P Academy G Kaspirovich, 1975

(Tupolev) of Sciences6154 6154 T P Trans-Alai no information6148 Razdelnaya T/Kyr P Trans-Alai E Beletski, 19376148 Dvukhglavyi T P Muzkolski no information6146 6146 T P Zulumart- K Kuzmin, 1958

ski6142 6142 T P Trans-Alai no information6141 Tbilisski Gosudars- T P Shakhdary- S Gugava, 1954

tvennyi Universitet inski6080 - Ist Southern (Litva) R Augunas, 19646007 - 2nd Southern (Babel) V Simonenko, 19676138 Sovetskoi Armii T P Shakhdary- V Starlychanov 1976

(Vooruzhennykh Sil inskiSSSR)

6136 6136 T P Shakhdary- V Solonnikov; 1983inski

6134 Shvernik T P Yazgulem- K Kuzmin, 1952ski

6133 Chatagai T P Muzkolski A Glushkov, 19866132 Severnyi Muzkol T P Muzkolski no information6132 Vudor (Vundor) T P Yazgulem- V Lavrukhin, 19766124 - Southern (Snezhnyi) ski V Lavrukhin, 19766130 Dnepropetrovsk T P Academy V Shabokhin, 1975

(Rudzutan) of Sciences6126 6126 T P Yazgulem- no information

ski6123 6123 T P Muzkolski no information6122 6122 T P Yazgulem- no information

ski6113 MGG (Titov) T P Yazgulem- A Shukurov, 1962

ski6107 6107 T P Trans-Alai V Abalakov, 19606106 6106 T P Muzkolski no information6105 Marshal Grechko T P Shakhdary- V Starlychanov; 1976

inski6098 Vooruzhennykh Sil T P Academy V Nekrasov, 1972

of Sciences6096 Mayakovski T P Ishkashim- V Budanov; 1947

ski6094 Berga T P Ishkashim- E Kazakova, 1947

ski



6088 Korzhenevskiy T/Kyr P Trans-Alai V Nozdrjukhin, 19515875 - Western (VMF) P Zak, 19576083 Arnavad T P Darvazski o Kapitanov, 19466080 Patkhor T P Rushanski E Abalakov, 19466075 Moskovskaya Pravda T P Shakhdary- A Snesarev, 1964

inski5739 - Southern M Gvarliani, 1964

(Pamati pogibshikhna Tetnulde)

5491 - Northern A Jurgelenis, 1964(Vechernia Moskva)

6075 Be1etski T/Kyr P Trans-Alai P Zak, 19576040 - Eastern P Zak, 1957

(Simanovich)6074 Bitkaya Vostochnaya T P Muzkolski no information5986 - Western V Zhak, 19866073 Kirov Kyr/Ch TSH Kokshaa1- no information

Too6072 Sandal T P Academy V Kizel, 1955

of Sciences6063 Saint-Exupery T P Academy K Vese1ov, 1976

of Sciences6050 Gorki Kyr TSH Tengri-Tag B Gavrilov, 19626048 Trapetsia Kyr TSH Trans-Alai E Allwein, 1928

V Abalakov, 19346047 Pasor (Tallin) T P Yazgulem- A Pugachev, 1980

ski5870 - Eastern (Manoilov) V Solonnikov, 19806045 Sovetskikh T P Yazgulem- K Kuzmin, 1952

Profsoyuzov ski6042 Krasnoyarskikh T P Trans-Alai V Kokorev, 1978

rabochikh (Warsawa)6038 Baikonur T P Shakhdary- V Nekrasov, 1976

inski6030 Be1euli T P Trans-Alai no information6028 OGPU T P Academy A Kustovski, 1966

of Sciences6028 Gorbunov (Mekhnat) T P Northern G Votrin, 1965

Tanymas6020 6020 T P Yazgulem- no information

ski6018 Krutoi Rag T P Northern no information

Tanymas6010 Markansu (Krylenko) T P Trans-Alai V Naryshkin, 19566004 Lituanik T P Shakhdary- A Avulis, 1984

inski6002 Varia T P Academy no informatioin

of Sciences6000 AvalakovE. T P Muzkolski A Bleschunov, 19406000 Edelweiss Kyr TSH Meridional no information

six and seventhousanders of the tien shan and the pamirs

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