“Sinsay muna at magkape. ”

“LIPA: THE BIRTHPLACE OF BARAKO COFFEE IN THE PHILIPPINES”

Reynaldo M. Lantin, PhD

1784 – El Capitan Francisco Montuano plants the first coffee in Pinugtong Ulan, Lipa

1808 – Lipa Municipal Capitan (Mayor) Don Galo de los Reyes zealously enforces coffee planting; 2/3 of Lipa becomes planted to coffee

1880s – Lipa becomes a timely world supplier of coffee due to shortages in Brazil

1886 – Coffee rust devastates the world’s coffee except in Las Islas Filipinas which becomes the coffee trading center of the world

1880-1890 – Lipa has become the richest municipality in the Philippines

October 21, 1887 – Queen Regent of Spain Maria Cristina issues a Royal Decree awarding the title of city or “Villa de Lipa” to the municipality of Lipa town in view of “the great progress attained in a very short time.”

Undated – Lipa is labeled the “(Original) Coffee Capital of the Philippines”

1901 – US replaces the devastated Arabica coffee with Liberica coffee; leading coffee brands use Liberica from the Philippine Islands in their blends

1911 – Dr. Edwin B. Copeland, Dean of the UP College of Agriculture at Los Baños explores the remnants of coffee in Lipa, Mataas na Kahoy and San Jose; - Confirms that coffee rust fungus (Hemileia vastatrix)

and not the ‘Bagumbung’ insect larvae had devastated the coffee plantations in Lipa

- Recommends Bordeaux mixture copper salt as control

- Notes that Coffea liberica or Barako coffee is more resistant to coffee rust than Arabica or Robusta

- Recommends sourcing seeds from Java. - Doubts revival of coffee industry to the scale prior to

1890 because of past experience and increased cost of labor for intensive cultivation

1992 – After the end of US Bases in the Philippines US ended its importation of Liberica coffee and other major crops - rice, sugar and coconuts – causing Philippine economic decline

1995 – Liberica coffee conservation effort is launched – “Save the Barako coffee” by Chit Juan

October 21, 2006 – Mayor Vilma Santos-Recto launches the First Lipa coffee festival;

- The Lipa Coffee Board chaired by Lipa City Agriculture Officer is organized

- The Mabini Academy Class 1955 alumni collaborates with the Office of the Mayor of Lipa City;

- Chit Juan of Figaro plants Liberica coffee in the Malarayat Golf course area

October 21, 2007 – 2nd year of the Lipa coffee festival – Pure Liberica Barako coffee planting materials are multiplied

July 2008 – coffee promotion activities are put to the back-burner by the new LGU administration; Lipa Coffee Board goes to inactive status

2008 – Enthusiastic Mayor of Amadeo, Cavite fills the void in coffee and promotes Barakocoffee

- Amadeo is declared “Coffee Capital of the Philippines” by President Gloria MacapagalArroyo

- Amadeo celebrates “Pahimis Coffee Festival during the second week of February

Coffea arabica – Arabica grown in high elevations, 800 -1500 masl

Coffea caniphora – Robusta grown in lowlands

Coffea excelsa - lately Coffea liberica var. dewevrie

Coffea liberica – the Batangas Barako coffee, best grown in the Batangas Mid-highlands, elevations 200 to 400 masl

Robusta, Coffea caniphoravar. dewevreiLiberica, Coffea liberica

Arabica Robusta

Excelsa or Liberica var. Dewevrei Liberica

Liberica, Coffea liberica

Front and back - palate peopleBack-palate people – depth and weight (Robusta

which is high in caffeine) and likely to enjoy LibericaBack palate people - aroma and taste (Arabica) and

likely to enjoy Excelsa

10% blend with another coffee to hit both palate people

50/50 blend of Arabica and Robusta – high approval rating

Pure Liberica – has the “sipang kabayo” or kick enjoyed by foreigners

Height of tree – 6- 8 meters tall Size of beans – largest among Arabica, Robusta and Excelsa Shape of bean – almond-shape and assymetric with one side

lower than the other causing a little hook at the bottom of the bean

Aroma – exceptional floral and fruity Flavor – full and slightly smokey Taste – polarizing or some people are not even sure it tastes

like coffee while some say it tastes woody and jungle-ly; others say revelatory.

Factor – a 10% mixer giving extra aroma and WOW factor True Barako coffee – found only in the Batangas Mid-

highlands

British Dictionary definitions for terroir- noun 1. (winemaking) the combination of factors,

including soil, climate, and environment, that gives a wine its distinctive character Word Origin

- literally: soil or land (tierra in Spanish) the environmental conditions, especially soil and

climate, in which grapes are grown and that give a wine its unique flavor and aroma: the high quality of the region’s terroir.

Also called goût de terroir [goo duh ter-wahr, gooduhter-war] - the unique flavor and aroma of a wine that is attributed to the growing environment of the grapes.

Terroir: soil, ecology, environment and process

Appellation system in wines and cheeses:

- Environmental and biological, looking at longstanding traditions (Do communities have a history of making this wine or cheese?),

- General utility of a crop or food (Is it grown or consumed widely by the community?)

- Shared process (Are wines or cheeses made the same way using the same name?).

Contemporary examples

Current production methods in U.S., although correct, abandon the entire idea of terroir and regionality.

Emphasis on terroir, the reputation of Burgundy owes much of its grace and fortitude to the humble city of Dijon.

Koshihikari japonica rice from Niigata Prefecture, Japan

Eritrean or Red Sea Salt, Fleur de Sel

Terroir is the basis of the French wine Appellation d‘Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system, which is a model for wine appellation and regulation in France and around the world.

Appellation of

"unique wines from a unique area“

may be applied to the

“unique Batangas Barako coffee from a unique Batangas Mid-highlands.”

Climate Soil type Geomorphology – natural landscape features like

mountains, valleys and bodies of water which affect how the climate interacts with the region and includes elevation of the coffee plantation location.

Other plants growing around the coffee plantations Human intervention – method of brewing; traditional

earthen pot, slow and low-heat from firewood

In other words, Lipa and the Batangas Mid-highlands have unique terroir for the best Barako coffee that stands out above other Liberica coffees

Zambales and Guimaras mango, lanzonesPaete, Pinya Calauan, Pinya Camarines Norte, Narra Isabela, Dinolores upland rice or Quezon rice, Mindoro rice, Urarong Liliw (actually grown in Rizal, Laguna claimed to be better than uraro arrowroot grown in Marinduque), Panglao (Bohol) ube Kinampay, Batangashorse, Manok Batangas, etc.

Batangas Barako coffee – unique taste and aroma and and has a “kick”

Continuing programs by participating LGUs - LipaCity, Mataas na Kahoy, San Jose, Cuenca, Balete, Malvar and Tanauan City

1. Greening the Batangas Mid-highlands

• Contour planting of Liberica coffee in hilly lands

• Planting of Liberica Barako coffee along roadsides.

2. Developing the Barako coffee production

• Commercial plantations

• Virtual plantations – Barako trees in every house yard and street fence

3. Developing Barako coffee industry and promoting the Barako coffee for the local and export markets

• Barako coffee processing plants in LGU clusters• Coffee shops proliferate as local culture of coffee drinking develops; coffee has been medically proven to be a health-giving beverage• Some promo lines: “Birthplace of Barako Coffee in the Philippines” “Sinsay muna at magkape” “Liberica Barako: the coffee with a unique “kick,” stong flavor and distinct aroma” “Barako in my bed”“Barako sa aking bakuran”

4. Making the Batangas Mid-highlands a friendly tourist destination

• Barako coffee welcome sign: “Sinsay muna at magkape” – signs along scenic routes indicating the Batangas hospitality culture

• Barako coffee blossoms festival• Barako coffee contests: harvesting, artisanal

brewing and drinking• Barako coffee with suman, kakanin and

pastries (no artificial ingredients) in coffee shops• Sinsayan at Barako Kapihan at Star Tollway exits

selling Star Batangas Barako coffee and in the national roads radiating from Lipa City

PROGRAM SOURCE OF FUNDS

Greening and landscaping with Liberica Barako coffee

DENR and DA

Horticulture and organic coffee production

DA

Establishing coffee processing plants and coffee shops on road sides and in parks; developing a culture of coffee drinking

DTI

Tourist destination DOT

Relevant LGU activities; Barako coffee drinking culture instead of alcohol drinking

IRA

Home and institutional planting of Liberica Barako coffee; Kaluwi’s 3-3-3 challenge for Barako

Private funds, family labor, corporate funds as applicable

Plant Barako coffee in idle, vacant and junk and waste storage spaces in the house yard

Plant Barako Coffee in parks, parking lots and street fences; make the LGUs a predominantly coffee country

Replace non-useful or out-of-place plants and trees with Barako coffee trees

Tapwork existing Robusta and Excelsa coffee trees with Barako coffee

Grow Barako in plastic drums

A casual coffee table-and-chair set in the front yard for “sinsayan” of friends and tourists

Casual/traditional coffee shops for motorists and locals at exit points of Star Tollway, e.g. Tagpuan, Tanauan exit

Gourmet Café de Lipa at Petron gas station in Tanauanexit; invite Figaro

The aroma of Barako coffee roasting in every home permeates the street air; the traditional coffee in the earthen pot is ever-ready

Authentic organic Barako ground coffee in attractive eco-friendly packaging for sale to visitors and tourists at agri-tour farms and all coffee shops

Kape Alamid, Kopi Luwak or Civet Cat Coffee is reputed as the best and most expensive coffee at about $30/cup in UK

Indonesia promoted Kopi Luwak as specialty coffee

Eco-friendly production of Kape Alamid – gather civet cat droppings in the wild (rather than confining alamid in cages); intercrop coffee with bananas and tibig to provide continuous food supply and to simulate the natural habitat for civet-cat friendly environment.

Batangas Mid-highland LGUs’ campaign: Money grows also on Barako coffee trees

1. Malls and other commercial buildings 2. Schools3. Plazas4. Sides of roads and highways5. Farms 6. Periphery of vacant and idle lots7. Churches8. Other places where Barako can grow

Caged Civet Cat or Alamid

Authentic kopi luwak gathered from the wild

World Animal Protection (WAP) and change.org intervenes on grounds of animal cruelty

Leading UK retailers such as Harvey Nichols and Selfridges have ceased to stock kopi luwak, and retailers in Holland, Scandinavia and Canada have committed to dropping it too

Acceptable - Rarefied’s kopi luwak is called Sijahtra and comes from the Gayo Mountains district of northern Sumatra.

Produce in the wild in Mount Makulot and Mt Malarayat

Must be authentic wild

Make civet cat or alamid a protected animal like the Philippine eagle

Solutions Rejuvenate old and topwork non-Barako coffee

trees Produce Barako coffee seedlings

1. Survey and tag authentic Barako trees in Lipa, Malvar, Balete, Mataas na Kahoy and parts of Tanauan and Sto Tomas

2. Collect authentic Liberica Barako coffee seeds during the 2017 harvest season; procure from Cavite State University in Indang, Cavite and Amadeo town

3. Establish LGU Liberica Barako coffee nurseries4. Accredit private Barako seedling nurseries selling

authentic Liberica Barako seedlings

Launch campaign at Barangay Pinugtong Ulan, Lipa City to be graced by Congresswoman VilmaSantos-Recto who started the Barakocoffee revival in Lipa City

Ride on Lipa’s historical status as the birthplace of coffee in the Philippines

Regain the faded glory of Lipa and the Batangas Mid-highlands (Encomienda de Lipa) as:

- “Birthplace of Barako Coffee in the Philippines”

- “Original Coffee Capital of the Philippines”

- “World’s Center of Coffee Trade during the late 1880s”

- “Richest municipality in Las Islas Filipinas”

- “Villa de Lipa” by the Spanish Royal Decree on October 21, 1887

Restore the faded glory after 127 years!

This time, make “Batangas StarBarako Specialty Coffee,” the “Ask-for Kick Coffee”through best cultural practices :- Organic coffee growing;- Harvesting on tree-ripened red coffee cherries (hinog-sa-

puno) - Extra-virgin coffee berry processing (wet process

depulping and slow drying) - Modern coffee roasting and brewing (barista style) in

parallel with the traditional home brewing in earthen pots or takure (kettle) and

- RA protecting the alamit and musang in the Batangasmountains for gathering bio-processed Barako coffee berries in the wild to make the Batangas StarBarako Alamid Coffee.

Men only at the coffee shop – “Starbucks”

Alphonse Allais, French writer and humorist(counterpart of Ka Ponso Ala-eh, the Batangueño pilosopo):

- “Coffee is a beverage that puts you to sleep if you fail to drink it.”

The End