Kit No. SIGRC67EGARF

Wingspan: 70 in. (1778 mm)Wing Area: 900 sq.in. (58.1 dm2)Length: 57 in. (1447 mm)Flying Weight: 6 - 6.25 lbs. (2720-2835 g)Wing Loading: 15-16 oz./sq.ft. (47-49 g/dm2)

Radio: 4 Channel with 4 Standard Servos

Glow:.40-.46 cu.in. (6.5-7.5cc) 2-Stroke Engine.40-.54 cu.in. (6.5-8.8cc) 4-Stroke EngineElectric:500 watt (3528-1000kv) Motor

DESIGNED FOR GLOW OR ELECTRIC POWER

WARNING: Radio controlled model airplanes must be used responsibly! Just like a full-size airplane, they fly at a high rate of speed and are capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE TO:

(1) Assemble this model airplane correctly according to the instructions.(2) To ground test the model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy.(3) To always fly your model in a safe approved location, away from populated areas.(4) To always fly your model in a safe manner. Your first test flights should be made with the assistance of an experienced R/C flyer.

LIMIT OF LIABILITY: SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in material and workmanship at the date of purchase. The actions, skills, and attention to detail of the modelerin assembling and flying this model airplane will ultimately determine its success and safety. Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.

SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA 50171-0520www.sigmfg.com © Copyright 2011, SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

INTRODUCTIONWelcome to the sport of Radio Control flying, and thank you forchoosing the SIG KADET LT-40 EG ARF. In order for your KADETto fly as well as it was designed to, it must be properly assembled.Work slowly and follow the instructions exactly. This kit features aproven aerodynamic design, quality materials, and detailedinstructions, but ultimately the flyability of your finished modeldepends on how well YOU put it all together.

The KADET LT-40 has earned a reputation as one of the very bestR/C trainers in the world. Tens of thousands of newcomers havesuccessfully learned to fly R/C with a KADET LT-40. This ARF version of the LT-40 gets you into the air quickly. It is designed tofly with either a .40-.46 2-stroke glow engine, a .40-.54 4-strokeglow engine, or a 500 watt electric motor.

CUSTOMER SERVICESIG Mfg. Co., Inc. is committed to your success in building and flying the KADET LT-40 EG ARF. Should you encounter any problems, or find any missing or damaged parts, feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.

SIG MFG. CO., INC.P.O. Box 520

Montezuma, IA 50171-0520

Telephone: 1-641-623-5154

Internet: WEB SITE: www.sigmfg.comE-MAIL: mail@sigmfg.com

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLYWe urge you to read this assembly manual completely beforeassembly. Familiarize yourself with the parts and their assemblysequences. The successful assembly and flying of this airplane isyour responsibility. If you deviate from these instructions, you maywind-up with problems later on.

If this is your first R/C Aircraft PLEASE READ THIS!As already mentioned, the KADET LT-40 EG ARF is a perfectmodel for learning to fly R/C. However, it is important to understand that if you have never flown an R/C model before, youwill need to find a qualified R/C flight instructor to test fly the airplane and teach you how to fly it. If this is your first radio control model airplane, DO NOT attempt to fly it by yourself without a qualified instructor.

ARE YOU INSURED?The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the UnitedStates is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, sometimesreferred to as the AMA. While AMA membership is not mandatory, it is a good idea and we encourage all new R/C fliersto join the AMA. Membership in the AMA provides you with important liability insurance protection in case your R/C modelshould ever cause serious property damage or personal injury tosomeone else. Because of that liability protection, most R/C clubsrequire AMA membership before you can fly at their field.

Join the AMA for the welfare of the hobby!

For more informationACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

5161 East Memorial DriveMuncie, IN 47302

Ph: (765) 287-1256www.modelaircraft.org

ADDITIONAL ITEMS YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASEIn addition to this kit, you will need the following items to completeyour KADET LT-40 and make it flyable.

❑ RADIO SYSTEMThe KADET LT-40 EG ARF requires a standard 4-channel radiosystem and four standard servos.

❑ POWER SYSTEM - GLOW OR ELECTRIC?The biggest decision you will have to make is whether to poweryour KADET LT-40 with a glow engine (2-stroke or 4-stroke) or anelectric motor. We have flown the KADET LT-40 on a variety of both types of power systems, and we make the followingrecomendations based on our successful on-field experience.

GLOW POWER RECOMMENDATIONS❑ ENGINEWe recommend the following size for the KADET LT-40 EG ARF.

2-STROKE - .40 to .46 cu.in.4-STROKE - .40 to .54 cu.in.

Don’t let the large size of the KADET LT-40 fool you! Due to it’shuge wing area, very light wing loading and slow flight envelope,these engines will provide ideal power for training or general sportflying the KADET LT-40.

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Whatever brand glow engine you choose, take the time to carefully break it in according to the manufacturer's instructions. Agood running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement for theenjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft.

❑ PROPELLER FOR GLOWRefer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for recommendations on proper propeller size for their engine. In ourexperience, most 2-stroke .40-.46 glow engines will fly the KADETLT-40 very nicely with a 10x6 or 11-6 prop.

ELECTRIC POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

❑ 500 watt BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER MOTORWe use the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 Brushless OutrunnerMotor. dia.: 35mm

length: 54mmweight: 197g (6.9 oz.)Kv = 1000Rm = .020Lo = 2.6

❑ MOTOR MOUNTWe use the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Large Motor Mount. Thisplastic cone-shaped mount provides the exact firewall-to-propellerdistance needed to fit inside the KADET LT-40 cowling, withoutmodifications. If you go shopping for another brand mount, you willneed a mount that can provide 4-1/2" from the front of the firewallto the back of the propeller (or spinner if being used).

❑ 50-60 amp ESC (Electronic Speed Control)We use the Castle Creations ICE 50 ESC or the Castle CreationsPhoenix 60 ESC. We typically see amp draw of 30 to 48 amps,depending on whether a 3 cell or 4 cell lipo is being used and thepropeller size.

NOTE: The Castle Creations ESCs that we used, as well as themany of the other ESCs on the market, have a BEC (BatteryEliminator Circuit) built in. BEC allows you to use the same batterypack to power both your motor and your radio system, eliminatingthe normal radio battery pack. As the dual purpose battery runsdown in flight, the BEC circuit in the ESC will shut down the motorand leave enough power to operate the radio while you land themodel. However, the BEC feature in many ESCs does not workwith 4 cell lipo battery packs - only 3 cell packs. Check the manual of your particular ESC to learn if this is true in your case.

If your ESC is only rated for 3 cell operation, you have threeoptions: 1) fly only 3 cell lipo packs; 2) install the normal radio battery pack to run the radio full time; or 3) install an aftermarketBEC that is rated for 3 or 4 cells. We wanted to be able to fly both3 cell and 4 cell packs interchangeably, so we elected to use thenormal radio battery pack, since we already had it and the little bitof extra weight is no problem for the KADET LT-40. We then disabled the BEC feature of our Castle ESC, since we no longerneeded BEC. Disabling the BEC allows the speed control to beused with both 3 cell and 4 cell packs without problems. A common way to disable BEC in many ESCs is to remove or clip themiddle wire from the plug on the ESC that goes into the radioreceiver - see your ESC manual for more guidance.

❑ 3 or 4 cell 4500mAh LITHIUM-POLYMER BATTERY PACKWith the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 motor we use 3 cell (3S1P)4500mAh or 4 cell (4S1P) 4500mAh Li-po packs. A 3 cell pack(11.1 volts) provides flight performance similar to a .40 glow

engine. A 4 cell pack (14.8 volts) provides flight performance similar to a .46 glow engine. We find that 4500mAh lipo packs provide between 10 to 15 minutes of flight time, depending on propeller selection and other factors (quality of pack, throttle management, outside temperature, etc.). CAUTION: You mustmatch your propeller size to the cell count of your lipo pack, toavoid drawing too many amps and damaging your ESC or motor.

❑ PROPELLER FOR ELECTRICWith a 3-cell (3S1P) 11.1v lipo pack, we recommend an APC11x7E, APC 11x8E, or APC 12x6E propeller for the Maxx ProductsHC3528-1000 motor. All three sizes delivered good performance,very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .40 glow engine. For a starting propwe recommend the APC 11x7E. Other brand propellers of samesize and similar design can also be used. NOTE: Your results mayvary due to other factors - the specs of your individual motor andbattery pack, etc. You may need to experiment with different propsto find your best combination.

With a 4-cell (4S1P) 14.8v lipo pack, we recommend an APC10x6E, APC 10x7E, or APC 11x5.5E propeller for the MaxxProducts HC3528-1000 motor.. All three sizes delivered good performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .46 glow engine. Fora starting prop we recommend the APC 10x6E. Other brand propellers of same size and similar design can also be used.

Hi-Maxx "COMBO 40" Complete SystemMaxx Products, the manufacturer of the motor that we used in thismanual, markets a "Combo 40" electric motor system. The Maxx"Combo 40" package consists of (1) Hi-Maxx HC3528-1000Brushless Outrunner Motor; (1) Prop Adapter Assembly; (1) CastleCreations 50 Amp Speed Control (ESC); and (1) APC 12-6EPropeller. It's a good system for the KADET LT-40.

Maxx Products, Inc.815 Oakwood Rd.Lake Zurich, IL 60047Web: www.maxxprod.comPh: 847-438-2233

REQUIRED TOOLS & BUILDING SUPPLIESFor proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools andmaterials available:

A selection of glues - SIG Thin & Medium CA Glue,CA Accelerator, CA Debonder,SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy

Assorted ScrewdriversPliers - Needle Nose & Flat NoseDiagonal Wire CuttersSmall Allen Wrench AssortmentPin Vise for Small Dia. Drill BitsHobby Knife with sharp #11 BladesSmall Power Drill With Selection of BitsDremel® Tool With Selection of Sanding & Grinding BitsScissorsSandpaper (such as 80 or 100 grit)Heat Iron & Trim Seal ToolT-Pins (such as SIG #SH-307)Masking TapeSoft Pencil or Fine Point Felt Tip PenRuler and/or Tape Measure90O Triangle (such as SIG #TR-036 Metal Triangle)Alcohol or Acetone For Epoxy Clean-up1/2” Thick Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIG #RF-240) - Used toprotect your radio receiver and battery from vibration. Alsoused as packing around radio components and fuel tank tokeep them from shifting around in flight.

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Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams.If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at 641-623-5154.

Note: Not all parts are shown at same scale.

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Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams.If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at 641-623-5154.

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LISTThe following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time toinventory the parts in your kit. Use the check-off boxes (❑ ) provided in front of each part description.

❑ (1) Fuselage & Hatch❑ (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged❑ (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator, hinged❑ (1) Vertical Fin & Rudder, hinged❑ (1) Cowling with (4) M2.6 x 10mm Mounting Screws

Main Landing Gear❑ (2) 4.5mm dia. Main Landing Gear Wires❑ (2) 3" Dia. Main Wheels❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Retaining Straps❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Screws❑ (2) 4.5mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacers❑ (2) 4.5mm I.D. Wheel Collars with Set Screws

Nose Gear Assembly❑ (1) 4mm dia. Nose Gear Wire❑ (1) 2-3/4" Dia. Nose Wheel

❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bearing❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw❑ (4) M3 x 14mm Mounting Bolts❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers❑ (1) 4mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacer❑ (1) 4mm I.D. Wheel Collar with Set Screw

Spinner Assembly❑ (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Cone❑ (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Backplate❑ (1) Prop Adapter Rings❑ (2) T3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Mounting Screws

Control Horns❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns; for elev(1) and rud(1)❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Retainer; for elev(1); rud(1)❑ (4) M2 x 12mm Mounting Bolts; for rud & elev control horns

Pushrods❑ (2) 1/16” dia. x 16” Straight Music Wire; for throttle & nose

gear pushrods❑ (2) 1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubes;

for elevator & rudder pushrods❑ (6) 2-56 x 10” Threaded Rods; for ail(2); elev(2); rud(2)

❑ (6) Nylon R/C Links; for ail(2); rud(2); elev(2)❑ (2) Brass Pushrod Connector; for thro(1); nose gear(1)❑ (2) Pushrod Connector Retainer; for thro(1); nose gear(1)❑ (2) Pushrod Connector Bolt; for thro(1); nose gear(1)

Miscellaneous❑ (2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Nylon Wing Bolts❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner❑ (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Tray❑ (1) Decal Sheet

Fuel Tank for Glow Engine❑ (1) Fuel Tank Body - 260cc (8.8 oz.)❑ (1) Rubber Stopper❑ (1) Metal Front Clamp❑ (1) Metal Rear Clamp❑ (1) M3 x 18mm Bolt❑ (1) Metal Clunk Pick-Up❑ (1) Fuel Tubing, inside tank❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 60mm❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 50mm❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 40mm

Engine Mounts for Glow Engine❑ (1) Right Engine Mount❑ (1) Left Engine Mount❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Mounting Bolts, for mounts-to-firewall❑ (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers, for mounts-to-firewall❑ (4) 4-40 x 1” Mounting Bolts; for engine-to-mounts❑ (4) 4-40 Lock Nuts; for engine-to-mounts❑ (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers; for engine-to-mounts

Your KADET LT-40 ARF is covered with ORACOVER®, a premiumquality covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by Hanger-9 as UltraCote®.

ColorsORACOVER® #10 White (UltraCote® #HANU870)

andORACOVER® #71 Black (UltraCote® #HANU874)

andORACOVER® #23 Red (UltraCote® #HANU866)

If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or matching paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobbydealer or online from Hanger-9.

How To Tighten Loose CoveringAfter you open your KADET LT-40 and take all the covered partsout of their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle. This isnot unusual and is no cause for alarm.

Your airplane was built and covered in a part of the world whichhas relatively high humidity and therefore, the wood was likely carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the

wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in theprocess. In turn, this may cause some wrinkles. However, wrinkles are easy to remove by just using a hobby type heat iron.CAUTION: Trying to remove the wrinkles by hastily going overthem with a heat gun can lead to more problems. You should takeyour time to carefully go over the entire model with a covering iron,as we will describe.

We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process.Cover the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old t-shirt,to prevent scratching the covering as you work.

After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the correct temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result!The iron should be set to about 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) asmeasured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.

If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct temperature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over over solidwood, such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the covering to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the covering is getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the ironand repeat the test.

If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Findthe temperature that will get the covering to stick down withoutforming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.

Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering issecurely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comesin contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but isworth the effort.

After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turnthe temperature of the iron up to approximatelly 300OF - 320OF(149OC - 160OC). This is the correct temperature for shrinking thecovering material.

Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of themodel (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over thewrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the coveringis tight with no wrinkles.

If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need to“ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that issealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat isapplied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead ofshrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between eachrib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding airescape and the covering to shrink properly.

Caution When Using Heat Guns: You can also use a hobby-typeheat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful aroundseams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams maycause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be carefulwhen using a heat gun when working around the windshield andside windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.

Recommended Temperatures:To adhere the covering - 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) To shrink the covering - 300OF - 320OF (149OC - 160OC)

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COVERING MATERIAL

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NOTE: ANY REFERENCE TO RIGHT OR LEFT IN THIS MANUAL REFERS TO YOUR RIGHT OR LEFT AS IF YOU WERESEATED IN THE COCKPIT OF THE AIRPLANE.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron❑ (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner❑ (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Mount

NOTE: The next 5 Steps involve gluing the Right and Left Wing Panels permanently together. You should be prepared to accomplish these 5 Steps in one session, without stopping for anything. In fact, it's best if you read through these 4 Steps beforebeginning, so that you will have a good understanding of thesequence we are about to start.

1) Note that the Wing Panels in your kit come with the aileronspermanently hinged in place. Give each aileron a gentle pull to therear to double check that they are securely glued.

2) Mix up an ample amount of slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Use awire, stick, or small brush to thoroughly coat the inside of the wingjoiner slot in the end of the Wing Panels with Epoxy. Be sure toapply glue inside the slots of BOTH the Left and Right WingPanels.

NOTE: It’s very important that you use plenty of Epoxy Glue during these steps. The strength of your wing joint depends on it!Use enough glue so that when you put the pieces together, excessglue oozes out of the joints. You can always clean up the excessepoxy glue with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol.

3) Coat one half of the hardwood Wing Joiner with Epoxy Glueand slide it into one Wing Panel.

NOTE: You should have enough glue in the slot and on the WingJoiner that the excess glue oozes out of the slot when you pushthe Wing Joiner in.

4) Apply a liberal amount of Epoxy Glue to the end ribs of BOTHWing Panels and to the exposed end of the Wing Joiner.

5) Slide the other Wing Panel onto the Wing Joiners and up tightagainst the first panel. Firmly press the Wing Panels together andwipe off any excess Epoxy Glue with a paper towel and rubbingalcohol. Make sure the two Wing Panels are accurately alignedwith each other, and then use tape( low tack) to hold them in placewhile the Epoxy Glue dries. Set the wing aside and let it dry completely (overnight if possible) before proceeding.

NOTE: If possible, get someone to help you with this step. Anextra set of hands makes the job much easier. While one personholds the two Wing Panels firmly together in correct alignment, theother person can clean off the excess glue and tape the WingPanels together.

6) After the Epoxy Glue has FULLY dried, you can remove thetape. Peel the tape off slowly, back over the top of itself, to avoidloosening the covering material.

7) Locate the plywood Aileron Servo Mount. This piece goes onthe bottom of the wing to reinforce the cutout where the aileronservo will be mounted. Hold the mount in place, lining up the inneredges with the cutout in the wing. Then carefully mark the wingsurface around the outside of the mount with a felt-tip pen.

8) Next use a modeling knife to carefully cut through the plasticwing covering along the lines you made in the previous step. Thenpeel the covering away where the mount will be glued.

CAUTION: DO NOT PRESS HARD ENOUGH TO CUT INTO THEBALSA WING SHEETING - CUT ONLY THROUGH THE PLASTICCOVERING! THE KEY IS TO USE A GOOD SHARP BLADE ANDGLIDE IT ALONG THE LINES WITHOUT HAVING TO PUSH THEBLADE DOWN.

WING ASSEMBLY

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9) Epoxy Glue the plywood Aileron Servo Mount in place. Useenough glue to fill the gaps along the sides of the mount.

10) This step is OPTIONAL! Some R/Cers like to cover the wingcenter joint with 1/2" wide plastic trim tape, or a 1/2" wide strip ofcovering material "trim sheet", to give the wing a more finishedappearance. If you want to do this on your Kadet, your local hobbyshop should have a selection of trim sheet or wide striping tape invarious colors to do this.

The wing is now basically done.Set it aside until you get to the section of the book titled

AILERON PUSHRODS on page 21.

It is much easier to apply all the decals now, before the major partsof the airplane are assembled.

1) Cut the decals for the Right Fin and the Left Fin out of the decalsheet using a sharp modeling knife and straight edge. Trim asclose to the image as possible.

NOTE: Keep the black and red decals for each side of the Fintogether as one unit. In other words, do not seperate the black andred parts that go on the same side of the Fin. Apply them as onedecal! There is no need to apply them as two seperate decals -apply them as one unit to save time.

2) Putting large decals (like these for the Fin) on a model oftenleaves unsightly air bubbles trapped underneath the decal. Here'sa method that eliminates the problem entirely!

First spray the surface of the Fin where the decal will be placedwith water mixed with a small amount of dish soap (you can alsouse "SIG Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner", "Fantastic®","Windex®", or "409®" type cleaners). Then peel the paper backingsheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the stickyside double over and adhere to itself. Place the decal onto the wetsurface of the model. The soapy water solution will keep the decalfrom actually sticking to the model until you have had time to shiftit around into exact position. Once you have it in position, use apiece of stiff cardboard (or sheet balsa, thin plywood, or a SIGSH678 Epoxy Spreader) to squeegee the excess soapy water outfrom under the decal. Mop up the water with a paper towel.Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the soapy water out fromunder the decal as possible.

3) Turn the Fin over and apply the decal to the other side in thesame manner.

4) Apply the Windshield decal next. This piece is small enoughthat you can apply it dry, without using any soapy water. Note inthe picture that it should go on flush with the bottom of the plywoodwindshield. Also notice that there is approximately 1/4" overhangon each side of the front decal. Wrap this overhang down onto thesides of the fuselage.

5) Apply all 3 Left Side Windows in one piece. Do not cut themapart! Applying them as a single piece will allow you to keep themlined up with each other. Use the soapy water method outlined inStep 2 to allow you to slide the Side Windows into perfect alignment with the Windshield. Once you have them properly positioned, squeegee the soapy water from underneath the SideWindows. Then apply the Right Side Windows in the same manner you did the Left Side Windows.

6) Cut out and apply the decals to the top of the wing. Apply wet.

7) Allow all the decals to dry overnight! When completely dry,wash off any soap smears with a clean wet rag.

APPLY THE DECALS

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1) Draw a center-line on the area of the Fuselage where theStabilizer will be mounted. If your Fuselage has any covering material from the sides overlapping onto the Stabilizer mountingarea, trim it off at this time.

2) Use a 90 degree triangle as shown to draw a center-line downthe middle of the top of the Stabilizer.

3) Set the Stabilizer in place on the Fuselage. Line up the center-line on the Stabilizer with the center-line on the Fuselage. Usepins to secure the Stabilizer in position. Push the pins completelythru the Stabilizer and into the Fuselage.

4) Lift the rear of the Fuselage up, without jarring the Stabilizerloose, enough to enable you to mark the location of both Fuselagesides on the bottom of the Stabilizer.

5) Remove the Stabilizer from the Fuselage and carefully stripaway the covering material on the bottom, between the two lines,where the Stabilizer will be glued to the Fuselage. CUT THE COVERING LIGHTLY ALONG THE LINES. AVOID CUTTING THEWOOD UNDERNEATH THE COVERING MATERIAL!

6) It's best to glue the Stabilizer permanently onto the Fuselagewith slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Mix the Epoxy and spread a generous coat evenly on the area of the Fuselage where theStabilizer goes. Remount the Stabilizer onto the Fuselage, usingthe edges of the cutaway covering on the bottom to get theStabilizer back into correct alignment on the Fuselage. Press theStabilizer down firmly and pin it in correct position. Use a papertowel and rubbing alcohol to wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue thatoozes out of the joint. Let this joint dry completely before proceeding.

7) Trial fit the Fin/Rudder assembly on the fuselage, sticking theleading edge of the Fin thru the hole in the top of the Fuselage.Carefully line up the trailing edge of the Fin with the center-line onthe top of the Stabilizer. Draw along both sides of the Fin, marking its location on the top of the Fuselage and Stabilizer. Takethe Fin/Rudder assembly off the Fuselage and strip away the covering material inside the lines.

8) Mix up a small batch of slow-drying Epoxy Glue and coat thearea where the Fin will go. Remount the Fin onto the Fuselage,line it up as before, and pin it firmly in position until the glue dries.Use a 90 degree triangle to insure that the Fin dries perpendicularto the Stabilizer.

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

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Locate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (2) 4.5mm formed Main Landing Gear Wires❑ (2) 3” dia. Main Wheels❑ (2) 4.5mm id Plastic Wheel Spacers❑ (2) 4.5mm Wheel Collars❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Straps❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Screws❑ (1) 4mm formed Nose Gear Wire❑ (1) 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel❑ (1) 4mm id Plastic Wheel Spacer❑ (1) 4mm Wheel Collar❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bracket❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw❑ (4) M3 x 14mm Mounting Bolts❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers

1) Locate the two pre-bent Main Gear Wires and the pre-bentNose Gear Wire. Inspect the ends of all the wires for burrs. If anyare found, use a file or sandpaper to remove them.

2) Press a 4.5mm id Plastic Wheel Spacer onto the axle portion ofthe one of the Main Gear Wires. Slide it all the way along the axle,and up tight against the bend in the wire. Then install a 3" dia.Main Wheel and a 4.5mm id Wheel Collar on the axle as shown.Tighten the wheel collar Set Screw firmly. Make sure the wheelturns freely after you tighten the wheel collar. Repeat the processto make a second Main Gear Wire assembly.

3) Fit the Main Gear Wires into the grooved block in the bottom ofthe Fuselage. Holes have been pre-drilled in the block to receivethe short upper arm of the gear wires. Push the wires down tightinto the groove. NOTE: If the wire doesn't want to fit completelydown into the groove of the landing gear block, it may be necessary to remove a little material from the inside edge of thehole to allow for the radius of the bend in the wire. Do this with around file or modeling knife.

4) Place the two nylon Landing Gear Straps over the Main GearWires as shown in the picture. Mark, then drill four 1/16" pilot holesfor the screws. Use four M3 x 10mm Screws to mount the straps.

5) Install a Plastic Wheel Spacer, the 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel anda 4mm Wheel Collar on the axle of the Nose Gear Wire. Make surethe wheel turns freely.

6) Bolt the nylon Nose Gear Bearing in place on the front of thefirewall using the four M3 x 14mm Bolts and M3 Flat MetalWashers provided. Note that M3 Blind Nuts are pre-mounted inthe back of the firewall for the Nose Gear Bearing. Use threadlocking compound on the bolts to keep them securely in place.

7) Hold the Steering Arm in position in the Nose Gear Bearingwhile you insert the top end of the Nose Gear Wire up through theholes in the bearing and steering arm. Push the wire in until thetop of the wire is flush with the top of the nose gear bearing. Snugup the set screw in the Steering Arm just enough to get a slight gripon the Nose Gear Wire (keep it loose enough that you can adjustthe steering arm position in the next step).

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

8) Align the Nose Wheel so it points straight ahead. Adjust theSteering Arm position on the Nose Gear Wire so that the outerhole in the arm is about 3/4" away from the front of the firewallwhen the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Then tighten the setscrew in the Steering Arm. NOTE: This slightly forward angle tothe Steering Arm is necessary to allow the steering arm to turn tothe left without hitting the front of the firewall.

9) Use a marker pen to mark the location of the set screw on thenose gear wire. Remove the wire and file or grind a flat spot in thewire for the set screw to rest in. Then reassemble the parts, tightening the set screw securely. The flat spot will help insure thatyour nose gear steering doesn’t slip.

Skip this section if you are planning to use an electric motor.Detailed instructions on installing an electric power system beginon page 16.

The installation for either a 2-stroke or 4-stroke glow engine isbasically the same. The only differences being in the throttle armlocations on the carburetors and the muffler locations. The factory-installed throttle pushrod sleeve in the fuselage has been placed toexit the firewall on the right side of the fuselage. Note that it is notyet glued in place and is removable. This positioning is typical forthe throttle arm location on most 2-stroke engines. If you plan touse a 4-stroke engine, it may be necessary to relocate the throttlepushrod sleeve over to the left side of the firewall to line-up with the4-stroke engine’s throttle arm. This is easy to do, using a long 1/4"dia. drill bit to drill a new hole (aligned with the engine’s throttlearm) through the firewall and through the second fuel tank supportformer behind it.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Right Glass-Filled Engine Mount❑ (1) Left Glass-Filled Engine Mount❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Phillips-Head Bolts; for mounts❑ (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers; for mounts❑ (4) 4-40 x 1” Slotted Bolts; for engine❑ (4) 4-40 Lock Nuts; for engine❑ (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers; for engine❑ (1) 2” Spinner Assembly, black❑ (1) 260cc (8.8 oz) Fuel Tank Assembly❑ (1) Cowling❑ (4) M2.6 x 10mm Screws for cowl mounting

You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):❑ (1) R/C Engine and suitable Propeller❑ (1) Silicone Sealer (common kitchen & bath type)

ENGINE AND MOUNTSThe engine shown in these instructions, is a typical .46 size 2-stroke engine. The engine is mounted in the upright position,providing easy access for field adjustments.

1) Bolt the engine mounts in place on the front of the firewall withfour M3 x 20mm mounting bolts and four M3 flat metal washers.Leave the mounting bolts slightly loose for the moment - do nottighten them until the next step.

2) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine mounts. Ifthe beams of the mounts are too far apart to fit your engine, slidethe mounts closer together. If they are already too close together,slide them apart. Notice that the holes in the mounts for the boltsare slotted to allow you to adjust the mounts to fit your engine.After you get the mounts in correct position, tighten all four mounting bolts, securing the engine mounts on the firewall.

3) Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts until thefront of the engine's thrust washer is 4-1/2" from the front of thefirewall.

11

GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION

12

4) Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing exactlystraight forward, and then mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the beams of the Engine Mounts.

5) Unbolt the engine mounts from the firewall and drill holes thruthe beams of the mounts at each location. We recommend thatyou secure the engine mounts in a vise while you drill the holes.Also, if at all possible, use a drill press to drill these holes. You candrill them by hand, but if you have access to a drill press the jobwill be much easier and the holes will be straighter.

NOTE: We have provided 4-40 x 1" Mounting Bolts and 4-40Aircraft Lock Nuts and Washers for mounting your engine to theEngine Mounts. Unfortunately, engines in the .40 to .46 size rangeare right at the break point between using 4-40 size or 6-32 sizemounting bolts. In other words, some .40-.46 engines have smallholes in their case for 4-40 bolts only, while other .40-.46 engineshave holes large enough to accommodate 6-32 bolts. If yourengine allows 6-32 bolts, and you want to use that size, you willhave to obtain those bolts and nuts from your local hobby shop.

Drill 1/8" dia. holes if you are using the 4-40 Bolts provided.Drill 5/32" dia. holes if you are using 6-32 Mounting Bolts.

6) When you're finished drilling the holes, bolt the engine to the Engine Mounts. Then bolt the entire engine/engine mount assembly back onto the front of the Firewall. Tighten all bolts andnuts securely.

SPINNER1) Choose the correct diameter Prop Shaft Adapter ring to fit yourengine's crankshaft. Press the adapter ring into the hole in themiddle of the spinner Backplate.

2) Slide the spinner Backplate on to the engine’s crankshaft, followed by your Propeller, then the Prop Washer, and finally theProp Nut. Tighten the Prop Nut just finger tight for now.

3) Slip the Spinner in place and check to see if the Propellerclears the openings. If necessary, loosen the Prop Nut, repositionthe Propeller, re-tighten the Prop Nut, and then check again.

Adjust as many times as necessary to make sure that the Propellercomes out the center of the openings. THE PROPELLER MUSTNOT TOUCH THE SPINNER! When you have it in the right position, tighten the Prop Nut.

4) Install the Spinner to the Backplate using the two small Screwsprovided.

FUEL TANKNotice in the following photos that the correct orientation of the fueltank in the airplane is on its flat side with the neck towards the rightside of the airplane.

1) Open the bag containing the fuel tank parts. Inside the tank isa piece of flexible fuel tubing. Reach inside with a tweezers or needle nose pliers to get a hold of the fuel tubing and pull it out.CAUTION: Don’t squeeze too hard and put a hole in the tubing!Now shake the tank a few times to make sure there is no dirt orplastic shavings inside!

2) Take a close look at the rubber stopper. Notice that it has twoopen holes and one closed one. We will only be using the twoopen holes. Leave the third hole closed.

Assemble the front metal clamp, the rubber stopper, and the rearmetal clamp with the bolt. Screw the bolt in until the parts justtouch each other - do not tighten at this time. Rotate the front andrear metal clamps until their holes line up with the two open holesin the rubber stopper. You should be able to see daylight completely through the two holes.

3) Use the shortest of the three supplied aluminum tubes for thetank fuel feed tube. Use the longest of the supplied tubes for thetank vent tube. Carefully poke the aluminum tubes through the twoopen holes in the stopper assembly. Keep pushing the tubes inuntil 3/8" of tube sticks out in front of the stopper. PLAN AHEAD:The two aluminum tubes should end up horizontally opposed toeach other at the top of the stopper. The short fuel feed tubeshould be on the left side, and the long vent tube on the right.

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4) Put the plain end of a #47 drill bit about 1/4" inside the back endof the vent tube. Using the drill bit for leverage, slowly bend theback end of the vent tube upwards at least 45O. Try not to put akink in the aluminum tube.

Test fit the completed stopper assembly into the neck of the fueltank. Rotate the stopper so the aluminum tubes are horizontal atthe top of the stopper. Hold the tank up to a strong light and lookinside to see if the vent tube is close to the top of the tank. If not,adjust the bend in the vent tube as needed.

5) Cut the piece of silicone fuel tubing that came with the tank to3-1/2” long. Slide one end of the fuel tubing onto the back end ofthe aluminum fuel feed tube. Attach the metal clunk pickup on theother end of the fuel tubing.

6) Test fit the stopper back in the tank to make sure the clunk canswing freely freely from side-to-side, whether the tank is right sideup or upside down, without hitting the back of the tank. If it hits theback end of the tank, take the stopper back out, shorten the lengthof the silicone tubing a little, and then test again. Shorten the fueltubing a small amount at a time until the clunk can swing freelyinside the tank.

7) When everything is right, tighten the screw in the stopper capuntil the cap is snug in the neck of the tank. Then test the fuel tankfor leaks! Fill your kitchen sink with water. Slip a piece of fuel linetubing onto the tank vent tube. Submerge the tank in the water,holding your thumb firmly over the fuel feed tube. Blow air into theother end of the fuel tubing and watch for air bubbles comingaround the cap of the tank. If it's leaking, tighten the screw in thecap a little at a time until the leaking stops.

8) Trial fit the tank in place inside the fuselage to familiarize yourself with how it mounts. The neck of the tank should fit throughthe hole in the firewall.

9) Apply a generous bead of silicone sealer around the neck of thetank (regular household bathroom type silicone sealer, available atmost hardware stores, is recommended). Slide the tank in place inthe fuselage. Push the tank firmly up against the back side of thefirewall, compressing the silicone sealer to make a good seal. Ifexcess silicone sealer oozes out onto the front of the firewall, cleanit off.

10) Cut a piece of scrap wood 3-1/4” long (can be stick or sheet,balsa or plywood) to use as a rear tank brace. Reach in throughthe servo area and wedge the brace between the fuselage sides,right up tight against the back end of the tank. Spread some SlowCA glue on the ends of the brace to glue it to the fuselage sides.(HINT: Put some glue on the end of a long stick or nail, then reachin and dab the glue on the ends of the brace.) This brace willinsure that the tank cannot shift backwards in flight.

11) Cut strips of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber (not supplied) to fitbetween the sides of the fuel tank and the fuselage sides - see firstphoto on next page. This is to keep the tank from shifting sidewaysin flight. Cut another strip of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber to lay ontop of the tank, filling the space between the tank and the Hatch.Then screw the Hatch in place.

12) Cut two 6" lengths of silicone fuel tubing, and install them onthe two aluminum fuel tubes coming out of the firewall. Attach thefuel feed line to the engine's carburetor and the vent line to thepressure fitting on the muffler. NOTE: Trim off any excess length

14

of fuel line tubing. The fuel lines should be kept as short as possible for best fuel draw, but not so short that there is danger ofthem coming off in flight. Leave a little slack in the lines.

WHEN FILLING THE FUEL TANKTo fill a fuel tank with this vent arrangement, first remove the fuellines from the carburetor and the muffler pressure fitting. Pump thefuel into the tank through the fuel feed line (carb line). When thetank is full, fuel will begin to run out the vent line (muffler line). Stoppumping when you see the fuel start to come out the vent line! Re-connect the fuel lines and you are ready to start the engine.

COWLING1) An opening needs to be made in the top of the cowling to clearthe engine head and allow access to the carburetor. Begin bymarking a centerline on the top of the cowl, as shown.

Then take width and length measurements off your engine andtransfer them to the top of the cowl, using the centerline as thebase reference point. The simple pattern shown in the photo was

quickly made by measuring the diameter of the engine head andthe overall length of the engine. It will serve as an undersize starting point for removal of material.

2) Cut or grind out the material inside the lines of your pattern. Beaware that there are no hard and fast rules for the perfect shapefor the cutout in the cowling. The best method is to “sneak up” onfinal shape, trial fitting the cowling over the engine and adjustingthe cutout as often as necessary. Make sure you achieve accessto the engine’s needle valve and to the fuel line tubing at the carb.

NOTE: A Dremel® tool, or similar power tool, with a coarse gritsanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use for removingthe cowling material quickly, easily and accurately. However, if youdo not have access to such a power tool, you can cut the openingwith a drill and a hobby knife. First drill a series of almost touchingholes inside the pattern lines (1/8” dia. works well). Then use theknife to cut through the connecting material between each hole.Smooth the edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block.

3) When satisfied with the opening, place the cowling over theengine and in correct position on the front of the fuselage. Mountthe propeller and spinner on the engine. Move the cowling into correct position on the fuselage, leaving a 3/32” to 1/8” gapbetween the front of the cowling and the back of the spinner, forclearance. Tape the cowling in exact position using a low-tack tape.

4) Near the rear of the cowling are four small pre-drilled holes -two on each side of the airplane. These holes are for the cowlmounting screws. With the cowling in exact position, drill a 1/16"dia. pilot hole in the fuselage side, through any one of the cowlmounting holes. Install an M2.6 x 10mm screw into the pilot holeand screw it in place - do not over-tighten the screw. Recheck theoverall fit of the cowling on the fuselage to make sure nothing hasshifted, and make any necessary adjustments to the tape. Then onthe opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" pilot hole and install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining two cowl mounting holes. Then remove the tape.

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THROTTLE PUSHRODLocate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage)❑ (1) 1/16” dia. x 16” Straight Music Wire Pushrod❑ (1) Brass Pushrod Connector❑ (1) Plastic Pushrod Connector Retainer❑ (1) 4-40 x 1/8” Pushrod Connector Bolt

1) The first step is to install your throttle servo in the fuselage,using the rubber grommets, eyelets, and screws that came with theservo. Mount the servo in the front opening in the servo tray,lengthwise across the fuselage. The servo arm should be towardsthe right side of the airplane, as shown in the following pictures.

2) The plastic outer sleeve for the throttle pushrod is alreadyinstalled in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so thatapproximately 1-1/2” sticks out in front of the firewall. Then permanently glue the sleeve to the firewall and to the fuselage former that is in front of the servos.

3) Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the outerhole of the throttle servo arm (see diagram of Pushrod Connectoron page 4). NOTE: It may be necessary to open up the hole in theservo arm with a 1/16” drill bit to allow the connector to go in freely.

4) A piece of straight Music Wire 1/16” dia. x 16” long is providedto make the throttle pushrod. Put a “Z-BEND” in one end of thepushrod (refer to page __ for instructions on making Z-BENDS inmusic wire). This will be the end of the pushrod that hooks up tothe engine’s throttle.

5) Just back from that "Z-BEND" you need to put 2 more bends inthis wire to move the "Z-BEND" over in line with the engine's throt-tle arm. If you are using a typical .40-.46 size 2-stroke engine, witha standard carburetor, bend your wire to match the pattern shownhere. It should work in most cases!

NOTE: This offset in the throttle pushrod wire may need to beslightly different depending upon the exact location of yourengine's carburetor control arm. Some arms may be a little closerto the fuselage side, while some may be closer to the engine'scenter-line. For most 2-stroke .40-.46 R/C engines, it will simplybe a matter of increasing or decreasing the angle of these twobends to change the total distance of the offset in the wire. If youneed to change the bends, change both bends the same amount,always keeping the two legs of the wire parallel to each other.

6) Temporarily unbolt the engine/engine mounts from the firewallso that you can insert the "Z-BEND" into the bottom hole of theengine's throttle arm. NOTE:You may be need to enlarge the holein the throttle arm with a 1/16” bit to accept the Z-BEND.

7) Slide the unbent end of the throttle pushrod wire inside theplastic outer sleeve as you re-bolt your engine/engine mounts tothe firewall. When the pushrod wire gets to the throttle servo, slidethe end of the wire inside the pushrod connector.

8) Hold the engine’s throttle arm in high throttle position, put thethrottle servo in high throttle position, and then tighten the setscrew in the pushrod connector at the servo.

NOTE: Most 2-stroke R/C engine carburetors will provide highthrottle when the throttle arm is pushed fully forward. Check yourcarburetor and confirm the correct direction of travel for "low" and"high" throttle movement.

9) Plug the throttle servo into your fully charged radio system (seeradio owner’s manual) so you can test the operation of the throttlepushrod. If your throttle servo is moving in the wrong direction, usethe transmitter’s “servo reversing” feature to change it. Makeadjustments to the throttle pushrod setup until you can achievethese results from movement of the transmitter throttle stick andthrottle trim lever:

NOTE: Adjusting carburetor linkage can be a little tricky! If youhave binding, check for an incorrect amount of offset (bend) in the

STICK FORWARDTRIM FORWARD

HIGH SPEED

STICK BACKTRIM FORWARD

GOOD IDLE

STICK BACKTRIM BACK

KILL ENGINE

16

pushrod wire at the carburetor. If necessary, re-bend the wire toeliminate the bind. If the throttle servo is binding or “stalling”because it has too much travel compared to the carburetor travel,try using your transmitter’s “End Point Adjustment” feature to dial inthe proper amount of travel. If that doesn’t work, you may need tomove the pushrod connectors to different holes in the servo or car-buretor arms. You may also need to loosen the pushrod connectors to re-adjust the overall pushrod length. All or some ofthese things may need to be adjusted to get the carburetor working properly.

The installation of your glow engine is now completed. Skip thenext section on electric motors and proceed directly to “RADIOINSTALLATION” on page 18.

If you are going to use an electric motor system in your KADETLT-40, you will need to acquire these items (not supplied):❑ (1) Electric Motor and suitable Propeller❑ (1) Motor Mount❑ (1) set of Mounting Bolts and Blind Nuts❑ (1) ESC (Electronic Speed Control)❑ (1) Battery Pack❑ (1) set of Connectors (Battery-ESC)❑ (1) 3/4” wide hook-and-loop (Velcro®) sticky-back Tape❑ (1) 3/4” wide hook-and-loop (Velcro®) Strap

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Cowling❑ (4) M2.6 x 10mm Screws for cowl mounting

There are literally dozens of good electric motors and accessorieson the market that are suitable for flying the KADET LT-40. All ofthem have their own unique features and dimensions, making it impossible to write detailed instructions for every brand. As mentioned in the beginning of this manual, we will be installing aMaxx Products #HC3528-1000 brushless outrunner electric motor,with the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount, and a CastleCreations ESC. Even if you use other brands, the followinginstructions should provide you with enough quidance to successfully install your electric power system.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON MOTOR MOUNTS: If you are using a different brand electric motor or motor mount, you need to makesure that the combination you select can provide exactly 4-1/2”distance from the front of the prop adaptor to the front of the firewall (i.e. back of the mount). 4-1/2” is the distance needed forthe cowling to fit properly.

1) There are four sets of “cross-hairs” etched on the front of the plywood firewall to mark the locations of the mounting holes for theMaxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount. To install this mount onthe firewall you will need to purchase (4) 4-40 x 1/2” Socket-HeadBolts, (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers, and (4) 4-40 Blind Nuts. Drill thefour mounting holes with a 9/64” or #27 drill bit.

NOTE: If you are using a different mount, line your mount up on thefirewall according to the horizontal and vertical thrust lines that areetched in the plywood. Then drill appropriate holes where neededfor your mounting bolts.

2) Install the blind nuts on the back of the firewall. The best methodis to use one of your mounting bolts, with a flat washer on it, fromthe front side of the firewall to “draw” the blind nut into the backside. Keep tightening the bolt until the prongs of the blind nut arecompletely locked into the plywood. After you get all four blind nutsin place, apply a little glue around the flanges of the blind nuts tokeep them from coming loose. Be careful not to get any glue in thethreads of the blind nuts.

HELPFUL HINT: It’s never easy putting a blind nut on the backsideof the firewall of a pre-built model. Here’s a handy trick! Take astick of scrap balsa wood - 1/4” sq. x 10”-12” long works well inmost cases - and put a piece of doubled-up tape (any kind) on theend, and then stick the blind nut to the tape. With this stick you canreach inside the nose of the airplane and hold the blind nut in position while you screw in the mounting bolt from the front of thefirewall. If the model structure doesn’t allow a straight shot at thelocation, cut an angle on the end of the stick to allow you to holdthe blind nut at the correct angle.

ELECTRIC MOTOR INSTALLATION

3) Bolt your motor and mount onto the firewall. Use thread locking compound (not supplied) on all the bolt threads.

4) Additional holes are needed in the firewall to allow air to flowback inside the fuselage to cool the battery and the ESC in flight.We recommend drilling three new 3/8” dia. holes in the approximatelocations shown in this photo. These holes, in addition to the onesalready there for the nose gear pushrod and the glow motor mounting, will provide adequate cooling air going into the fuselage.

5) The cooling air must have a place to exit the fuselage. Using asharp new blade in your hobby knife, cut a 1” x 3” opening in thebottom of the fuselage, 16” behind the landing gear. After makingthe opening, seal and toughen the edges of the bare balsa woodwith a coat of Thin CA glue or epoxy.

6) a) Solder the appropriate connector (not supplied) to the battery leads of your ESC.

b) Pass the motor leads of the ESC through the bottom rightcooling hole you made in back in Step 4. Connect the leads to themotor. Operate the motor and check the direction of rotation. Ifyou need to reverse the rotation, refer to the instructions that camewith the motor and ESC.

c) Mount your ESC inside the nose of the airplane, just behindthe firewall. Stick it to the fuselage bottom with a 1-1/2” long pieceof 3/4” wide “hook & loop” tape (not supplied).

NOTE: Hook-and-loop “tape” has either the hook or the loop ononly one side of the strip. The other side is sticky back.

7) Cut 3 small pieces of 3/4” wide hook-and-loop tape (not supplied) and stick them on the battery compartment floor, whereshown in the following photo. Put a long strip of the mating tapeon the bottom of each of your battery packs. This will keep yourbattery pack from shifing position in flight.

8) Cut two 9” long pieces of 3/4” wide hook-and-loop strapmaterial (not supplied). Install the two straps in the battery compartment as shown, running them through the slots in the plywood floor. Anchor the straps to the backside of the plywoodwith a few drops of glue. These straps will keep your battery packfrom falling out of the airplane.

NOTE: Hook-and-loop “strap” has the hook surface on one side ofthe strip and the loop surface on the other side. You can overlapthe ends of the strip and stick them together, effectively creating astrap to hold your battery pack securely in position.

9) Mount the cowling to the fuselage with the four M2.6 x 10mmScrews provided. Note that four holes for the screws are alreadyin the cowling - two on each side. Tape the cowling in correct position on the fuselage, using a low-tack tape. Use a 1/16" drillbit to make a guide hole through one of the upper cowl mountingholes and into the fuselage side. Install an M2.6 x 10mm Screwinto the drilled hole and screw it in place - do not over-tighten the screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowl and make any adjustments needed with tape to hold it in place. Then on theopposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" guide hole andinstall a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining two cowl mounting holes. Remove the tape.

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10) OPTIONAL SPINNER: A 2” dia. spinner is included in this kit.No doubt it will be used by almost everyone who is installing a glowengine. However with an electric motor you may prefer to not usethe spinner in order to allow more cooling air to flow into the cowling. If you do elect to use a spinner, check after the first couple flights for any sign of the motor overheating. If you think it’sgetting too hot, you may need to make some additional openingsin the front of the cowling for additional cooling air to enter. Alsomake sure you have plenty of exit area for the air. In any fullycowled installation (glow or electric), it is critical that you haveslightly more exit area than incoming area. Having more exit areacreates a positive air flow through the cowling - a suction affect -drawing the heated air out of the cowling so that more cool air cancome in.

NOTE: The receiver and servos of different brand radios are not allthe same size! Consequently, it is practically impossible for us toguarantee that every word and picture in this next sequence willpertain exactly to your installation. As you go along, you may noticesome differences between your radio equipment and ours.Nonetheless, most of the radio system components will be closeenough in size and appearance that you should be able to figureout for yourself how to handle any minor differences. Follow theinstructions as closely as possible. If you have any questions, seekthe advice of an experienced modeler. The installation of the control system in your new model is very important! It must bedone correctly in order for your airplane to fly successfully.

INSTALL THE SWITCHThe first step is to mount the radio's on/off switch in the left side ofthe fuselage (the side away from the exhaust). Start by using theswitch cover plate as a template to mark the location and size ofthe opening and the two holes for the mounting screws. Use amodeling knife to cut the opening. Use a 1/16" dia. drill to makethe holes for the screws. Install the switch.

CAUTION: Make sure the opening for the switch's on/off lever isjust slightly bigger than the lever, so that the switch will operatewithout catching or binding on the wood.

INSTALL THE ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVOSMount your elevator and rudder servos in the plywood Servo Trayusing the screws and rubber grommets that came with your radiosystem. Be sure to orient the servos in the tray as shown here.

CAUTION: The rubber grommets that came with your servos actas shock absorbers and prevent engine vibration from damagingthe electronics in the servos. Do not over tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where they compress the rubber

grommets so far that the grommets loose all shock absorbing ability. Tighten the screws just enough to make contact with thegrommets and keep the servos in place.

NOSE GEAR PUSHRODLocate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage)❑ (1) 1/16” dia. x 16” straight Music Wire Pushrod❑ (1) Brass Pushrod Connector❑ (1) Plastic Pushrod Connector Retainer❑ (1) 4-40 x 1/8” Pushrod Connector Bolt

1) Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the outermost hole of the nose gear Steering Arm. Install the PushrodConnector on the BOTTOM of the Steering Arm. NOTE: It willprobably be necessary to open up the hole in the steering arm witha 1/16” drill bit to allow the connector to go in freely.

2) The plastic outer sleeve for the nose gear pushrod is alreadyinstalled in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so thatthe front end is flush with the front of the firewall. Then glue theplastic pushrod tubing permanently in the hole in the left side of thefuselage former, in front of the servos.

3) A piece of straight 1/16” dia. Music Wire is provided to make thenose gear pushrod. Use a diagonal cutting pliers to cut the pieceto 14" long. Remove any burrs from the ends of the wire with a file.

4) Make a "Z-BEND" in one end of the 14” wire. This will be theend of the pushrod that attaches to the rudder servo. See “MAKING A Z-BEND IN 5 EASY STEPS” on page 23.

5) Insert the Z-BEND into the middle hole of the rudder servo arm.The Z-BEND should go into the servo arm from the BOTTOM, asshown in the next photo.

18

RADIO INSTALLATION

6) Slide the unbent end of the pushrod wire inside the plasticouter sleeve, starting from the servo end. As the plain end of thewire exits the firewall, insert it into the pushrod connector on thesteering arm.

7) Point the nose wheel straight ahead, check that the rudderservo is in neutral position, and then tighten the set screw in thepushrod connector on the steering arm.

8) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation of the nose gear. If you sense any binding in the nose gear movement, find the cause and fix it now.

NOTE: The exact amount of nose wheel travel is not as critical asthe other flight control surfaces will be. A good rule of thumb,especially for new pilots, is that less travel of the nose wheel is better than more! You do not need any more than 10O-15O of travel each way!

RUDDER PUSHRODLocate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn Retainer❑ (2) M2 x 12mm Bolts, for control horn❑ (1) 1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube❑ (2) 2-56 x 10” Threaded Rods❑ (2) Nylon R/C Links

1) Hold the Nylon Control Horn in position on the left side of therudder and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill pilotholes through the rudder with a 1/16" dia. drill bit (turn the bit withyour fingers or a pin vise - a power drill is not necessary).

2) Mount the Control Horn onto the rudder with the Retainer Plateand Bolts.

3) Cut one of the 10" Threaded Rods to 5" overall length. Cut theplain end of the rod, not the threaded end!

4) Coat all of the unthreaded portion of the 5” rod with a very thinlayer of epoxy glue, and then proceed immediately to the next stepbefore the glue dries.

5) Slide the glue coated end of the 5" threaded rod inside the 1/8”O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube, all the way up to the beginning ofthe threads. Now get a good grip on the threaded portion of therod, and start screwing the threads into the tubing. Keep turningthe rod until at least 3/16" of threads are inside the nylon tubing.Wipe off any excess epoxy glue, and set the assembly aside to dry.

NOTE: If you need to hold onto the threaded portion of the rod witha pliers in order to screw it in, use a cloth between the rod and thejaws of your pliers to avoid damaging the threads.

6) After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C Link halfway onto theexposed threads of the steel rod.

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7) From the tail end of the airplane, slide the rudder pushrodinside the pushrod sleeve that is already in the fuselage. Slide it inuntil the nylon R/C Link is even with the rudder control horn. Pryopen the R/C link and clip it into the outermost hole of the ruddercontrol horn. Now reach into the fuselage and try operating therudder from the servo end of the pushrod. It should work smoothand easy. If not, figure out why and fix it now before proceeding.

8) a) Now clip another R/C Link into the rudder servo arm - on theside of the servo opposite the nose gear pushrod.

b) Set the rudder in neutral position.c) Mark the inner pushrod tube exactly 1/8" from the end of the

R/C Link.d) Unhook the R/C Link from the rudder horn and slide the

pushrod tube back out of the airplane. Cut off the tube at the markjust made, using a sharp razor blade or modeling knife.

9) Cut a 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coat theplain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue.Immediately slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end ofthe rudder pushrod tube. Screw at least 3/16" of threads into thetubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue and let dry.

10) Slide the rudder pushrod back inside the sleeve in the fuselageand clip the rear R/C Link back onto the elevator horn. At the servor end of the pushrod, screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto theexposed threads of the steel rod. Then clip that R/C link into therudder servo arm.

11) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operationof the rudder. If you sense any binding in the rudder movement,find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of

the transmitter's rudder control stick, the rudder should moveapproximately 1" right and 1" left.

NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of rudder travel, tryusing your transmitter’s “End Point Adjustment” feature to dial inthe proper amount. Also fine tune the overall length of the rudderpushrod, by screwing one or both of the nylon R/C Links further inor out, until the rudder is neutral when the transmitter is neutral.

ELEVATOR PUSHRODLocate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn Retainer❑ (2) M2 x 12mm Bolts, for control horn❑ (1) 1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube❑ (2) 2-56 x 10” Threaded Rods❑ (2) Nylon R/C Links

1) Mount a Nylon Control Horn on the bottom of the Elevator usingtwo M2 x 12mm Bolts. Make sure the Elevator Horn is in the center of the tail opening so that the R/C link won't hit the fusesides.

2) Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coatall of the plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin layer of epoxyglue, and then proceed immediately to the next step before theglue dries.

3) Slide the glue coated end of the 7" long threaded rod inside the1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube, all the way up to the beginningof the threads. Then screw at least 3/16" of threads inside the tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue. After the glue dries, screwa nylon R/C link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod.

4) Slide the elevator pushrod inside the pushrod sleeve that isalready in the fuselage. Slide it in until the nylon R/C Link can besnapped into the bottom hole of the elevator control horn. Thenreach into the fuselage and try operating the elevator from theservo end of the pushrod. It should work smooth and easy. If not,figure out why and fix it now before proceeding.

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5) Clip another R/C Link into the elevator servo arm. Set the elevator in neutral position. Mark the servo end of the pushrodtube exactly 1/8" from the end of the R/C Link. Unhook the R/CLink from the elevator horn and slide the pushrod tube back out ofthe airplane. Cut off the tube at the mark just made, using a sharprazor blade or modeling knife.

6) Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coatthe plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue.Immediately slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end ofthe elevator pushrod tube. Screw at least 3/16" of threads into thetubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue and let dry.

7) After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto theexposed threads of the steel rod. Clip the R/C link into the elevator servo arm.

8) Plug the elevator servo into the receiver and test the operation ofthe elevator. If there is any binding in the movement, find the causeand fix it now. With full up and down movement of the transmitter'selevator control stick, the elevator should move approximately 9/16"up and 9/16" down.

AILERON PUSHRODSLocate the following parts from the kit contents:❑ (2) 2-56 x 10” Threaded Rods❑ (2) Nylon R/C Links

1) Mount a servo in the plywood Aileron Servo Mount, which isalready installed on the bottom of the wing. REMEMBER: Do notover tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where theycompress the rubber grommets too far.

2) The aileron pushrods are made from two 10" Threaded SteelRods. Screw a nylon R/C Link halfway onto the threaded end ofeach rod. Then clip the R/C Links into the holes in the NylonAileron Connectors and line up the pushrods with the servo arms.

3) Tape the ailerons in neutral position (the bottom of the aileronsand the bottom of the wing should be flush). Then hold thepushrod wires up against the servo arm and carefully mark eachwire at the holes in the servo arm. This is the neutral positionmark.

4) Measure 3/16” from the neutral position mark, towards theunthreaded end of the wire, and make another mark. Now makea third mark 1/4” away from the 3/16” mark.

5) Use a cutting pliers to cut the wires at the 1/4” mark. Put a “Z-BEND” in the end of each wire, using the remaining marks as yourguides.

6) Unclip the R/C Links from the torque rods so that you can insertthe Z-BENDS into the holes in the servo arm. After they areinstalled, clip the R/C Links back on the torque rods. NOTE: Youwill probably have to drill out the holes in the servo arm a little bitto allow the Z-BENDS to go in.

7) Re-adjust the overall length of the aileron pushrods by screwing the Nylon R/C Links further in or out, as needed to getboth ailerons into neutral position at the same time. Make sure theaileron servo is neutral while doing this.

8) Plug the aileron servo into the receiver and test the operationof the ailerons. If you sense any binding in the aileron movement,

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find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement ofthe transmitter's aileron control stick, the ailerons should moveapproximately 3/8" up and 3/8" down.

RECEIVER BATTERY PACKWrap the battery pack with a single layer of 1/2” thick soft foamrubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape orrubber bands to hold the foam around the battery. Install thewrapped battery pack inside the nose of the model, under the fueltank floor. Try to keep the battery pack as far to the right side ofthe fuselage as possible to avoid interfering with the nose gearpushrod.

RECEIVERIMPORTANT: Do not cut the antenna wire coming out of thereceiver or attempt to fly your model with the antenna wire foldedor coiled up! The antenna length is predetermined by the radiomanufacturer for best signal reception. Shortening or lengtheningthe antenna wire can detune the receiver.

1) Following the radio manufacturer's instructions, plug all thewires for the servos, battery pack, and switch harness into thereceiver so the radio system is fully operational. Double check tobe sure that each servo is plugged into its correct receiver terminal and that it is responding properly. NOTE: Since thereceiver will be hard to get at, you should use a short "extension"wire (available from the radio manufacturer) for the ailerons. Plugthe extension wire into the receiver's aileron terminal. Wheneveryou take the wing on/off the model, you can connect/disconnectthe ailerons at the plug-in between the extension wire and theservo wire, leaving the extension wire itself permanently pluggedinto the receiver.

2) Wrap the receiver with a single layer of 1/2" thick soft foam rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape orrubber bands to hold the foam around the receiver.

3) Install the wrapped receiver inside the nose of the model, rightbehind the battery pack. If the receiver seems loose in the nose ofthe model, pack additional pieces of foam rubber around it to makesure it cannot move around in flight. Make sure the receiver antenna wire is accessible at the back of the receiver, free andclear of all the other wires.

4) NOTE: The following step describes running the antenna outside the airplane along the bottom of the fuselage. There are alot of other ways to handle the routing of a receiver antenna. If youprefer a different method, by all means use it.

a) Drill a 1/16" dia. hole completely through the bottom of thefuselage a couple inches behind the main landing gear. This holeis for the receiver antenna wire to exit the fuselage. Put a singledrop of Thin CA glue on the hole to harden the edges and keep thecovering from coming loose. Let dry completely!

b) Poke the antenna wire down through the hole in the bottomof the fuselage from the inside. Make sure the antenna wire is nottangled up in the servo and battery wires! Continue pulling theantenna out the bottom of the fuselage as far as you can.

c) Anchor the loose end of the antenna on the outside of themodel near the rear of the fuselage using a T-Pin and small rubberband (not supplied). Stick the T-Pin into the bottom of the fuselageand glue securely in place. Tie the rubber band to the antenna andthen loop it over the T-Pin. The antenna should be just taught, nottight! The rubber band allows a certain amount of give in case theantenna is snagged by accident.

Optional: It’s a good idea to install an antenna “strain relief" fittingon the antenna wire, inside the airplane, right where the antennaexits the bottom of the fuselage. Some radio manufacturersinclude a strain relief fitting with their systems. If not, you canmake one simply by drilling three 1/16” dia. holes in a small pieceof thin plastic, as shown in the next photo. Thread the antennaback and forth through the holes. Position the fitting on the antenna wire to provide a little bit of slack between in the fitting andthe receiver. This keeps the rubber band from constantly pullingon the antenna at the receiver.

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We know that your KADET LT-40 looks done and you’re anxious togo out and fly it, BUT WAIT A MINUTE - IT’S NOT REALLY DONEYET! It must be balanced. All airplanes, model or full-size, mustbe accurately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplanethat is not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likelycrash!

PRELIMINARY: To balance your KADET LT-40, all of the partsand components must be installed in their correct positions on themodel. The battery pack and receiver must be installed in theircorrect locations; the propeller, spinner, and muffler must be installed on the engine; the fuel tank and fuel lines must beinstalled and connected; and every other piece of essential equipment must be installed, ready for flight. ALWAYS BALANCETHE KADET LT-40 WITH THE FUEL TANK EMPTY!

RECOMMENDED BALANCE POINT:Between 3-1/2” to 4-1/4” Behind The Leading

Edge Of The Wing(Anywhere within this range is acceptable.)

Using a ruler, measure back from the leading edge of the wing andmark the balance range on the bottom of the wing, next to the fuselage. Make the same marks on both sides of the fuselage.Place a fingertip on each pencil mark and lift the airplane up in theair. No part of the model should be touching anything except yourfingertips! If the KADET LT-40 will sit on your fingertips in a levelattitude, then it is properly balanced and ready to fly.

If the airplane sits on your fingertips in an extreme nose down attitude, then it is nose heavy. You will have to add weight to therear of the airplane to get it to balance. NOTE: Before adding additional weight to the model, try simply moving the battery packto a further aft location. The battery pack is relatively heavy andtherefore makes a good balancing tool. You might try switchingplaces between the battery and receiver; or move the battery rightin front of the servos; or in extreme situations, move it behind theservos. If you can’t get your model balanced simply by re-locatingthe battery pack, then you will have to purchase lead weights fromyour hobby dealer and glue them into the tail end of the fuselage.

If the airplane sits on your fingertips with the tail down, it is tailheavy. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY IT! A tail heavy model is verydangerous and will most likely crash!! Weight will have to beadded to the nose of the model to bring it into balance. Theweights can be glued to the inside of the fuselage “cheeks” in frontof the firewall; or inside the fuselage alongside the fuel tank. Thereare also “spinner weights” available for tail heavy models.Wherever you put the balancing weight, make sure it cannot comeloose in flight!

WHY MODELS MUST BE INDIVIDUALLY BALANCEDIt is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automaticallyhave the correct balance point every time. Not everyone uses thesame engine or radio - and all those items can vary in weight! Youmight be surprised to know that .40 size 2-stroke R/C model enginescan vary in weight from 11 oz. to 18 oz. - that’s almost a half pound difference, way out on the nose of your model! There can even be asmuch as a 3/4 oz. difference in weight between different brands of 10-6 props! So, that’s why every model must be balanced before flying. Don’t feel that whatever the balance point your model came outat is “good enough”. Check carefully and make whatever adjustmentsare required. Trying to fly an out of balance model is dangerous!

BALANCE YOUR AIRPLANE!MAKING A “Z-BEND” (In 5 Easy Steps)

Step 2: With a pliers, bend the wire 90 degrees, as tightas you can, at the 1/4” mark (the mark nearest the end.

Step 3: Now, put another tight 90 degree bend at the second mark, perpendicular to the first bend, as shown.

Step 4: Next, grip the end of the wire as shown, and twistthe end into proper alignment with the rest of the wire.

Step 1: Using a pencil orfelt-tip pen, put a mark 1/4”from the end of the wireyou want the “Z-BEND” in.

Then make another mark3/16” past the first mark.

Step 5: Use a needle nosepliers to "tweek" (fine tune) thebends, if needed.

❑ Be certain to range check your radio equipment according tothe manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to fly.

❑ Run your engine for the first time on the ground. A lot of problems can be avoided if your new engine has been “broken in”by running at least two tanks of fuel through it on a test standbefore you attempt to fly.

❑ Double check the alignment and movement of all the controlsone more time! Make sure none of the pushrods are binding or theservos stalling. Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper direction when you move the sticks. You’d be amazed toknow how many models have been destroyed on takeoff with oneof the controls reversed. Don’t let it happen to you! It’s a good ideato get into the habit of checking for proper control response everytime you get ready to fly.

❑ Adjust all of your pushrod linkages so that the control surfacesare in their neutral position when the transmitter sticks and trimlevers are centered. When you get to the flying field, don’t be surprised if the elevator and rudder are suddenly misaligned afteryou had them perfect at home. Temperature and humidity changescan cause nylon pushrods, like those on the KADET LT-40’s elevator and rudder, to shrink or expand slightly. If they are justslightly out of neutral, use the trim levers on the transmitter to neutralize them again right before flying.

❑ RECOMMENDED CONTROL SURFACE TRAVELELEVATOR: 9/16” UP, 9/16” DOWNRUDDER: 1” LEFT, 1” RIGHTAILERONS: 3/8” UP, 3/8” DOWNTHROTTLE:Tx Stick Trim Lever Carburetor ResultForward Forward Full Open High SpeedBack Forward Slight Open Good IdleBack Back Full Closed Kill Engine

❑ Make sure all of the screws and bolts on your model are tight.Double check to see that all of the servos are secure, all of theservo control arms are screwed on firmly, all the R/C Links areclamped shut.

❑ Charge your radio batteries before every flying session!

Do not try to fly your KADET LT-40 in your backyard, at the localschool yard, or in any other heavily populated area! If you havenever seen an R/C airplane of this size fly before, you probablydon’t realize how much room you really need. An area as big asthree football fields, that is free of power lines, trees, poles, houses, and other obstructions is the minimum amount of roomthat you will need. A school yard may look inviting, but it is too closeto people, buildings, power lines, and possible radio interference.

The best place to fly your model is at a designated model airplaneflying field. Ask your local hobby dealer or check online to find outif there is an R/C club and flying field in your area. The local clubfield is the ideal place to fly your new Kadet! Joining the local flying club will not only give you access to a large, safe place to fly,but you will enjoy being around all types of R/C model airplanesand talking to their builders.

Learning to fly radio control model airplanes is not a skill you willlearn in a few minutes. It’s very similar to learning to fly a real airplane in that you should enlist the help of an instructor beforeyou try to pilot the airplane yourself. A lot of things can go wrongwith these machines, and if you are not prepared to deal with theminstantly, you will loose your brand new airplane in a crash. Topractically eliminate any chance that your first flight will end in disaster, we strongly recommend that you seek the assistance ofa competent R/C pilot to help you with your first flights.

An instructor serves two purposes. First, he will take your modelup for its first test flight to make sure it is performing properlybefore you try to fly it. When a brand new R/C model takes off forthe first time, there is no way of knowing which way it is going togo. Some models will try to climb, while others may want to godown. Some will turn left, others right. Some models will be doingboth at the same time! It doesn’t mean that there is anythingwrong with the model, but these minor differences must be“trimmed out” in order for the model to fly “hands-off” straight andlevel. An experienced pilot can instantly correct an out of trimmodel before it crashes to the ground. An inexperienced beginnerhas almost no chance of saving an out of trim model!

The second reason for an instructor is to have someone there whocan correct any mistakes you make when you take over the controls for the first time. Let the instructor get the model airborneand flying straight and level at a safe attitude (“several mistakeshigh” as the old saying goes) before he turns the transmitter overto you. You will quickly find out that it is very easy to over controlan R/C model and to get disoriented - EVERYONE DOES IT ATFIRST! If you get out of control on your first flight, quickly hand thetransmitter back to your instructor so he can rescue the airplane.He will get it leveled off and then let you try it again. Without aninstructor, you would not get a second chance!

In addition to not over controlling, another problem beginners needto overcome is the left/right control reversal that happens when amodel is flying towards you one minute, away from you the next.For example, if you were seated in the cockpit of a full-scale airplane and moved the control stick to the right, the airplanewould always turn to your right. Moving the control stick to the left,the airplane would always turn to your left. Well that’s not alwaystrue with an R/C airplane! If the model is flying away from you, thecontrols are normal - right stick makes the airplane go right, leftstick makes the airplane go left. But when the model is flyingtowards you, the controls are reversed - now when you move thestick to the right, the model turns to its right, but that means it turnsto your left! This control reversal is very confusing to all first timeR/C pilots! More than a few licensed full-scale pilots have found outthat flying R/C airplanes is a lot different than flying full-scale airplanes because of this phenomenon.

It’s not that learning to fly R/C is difficult, it’s just a lot different thananything you have ever done before. Anyone can learn to fly theKADET LT-40 if they are willing to listen and learn!

Fly your KADET LT-40 as often as possible. After you get a fewflights under your belt with an instructor at your side, you will beginto feel more comfortable at the controls. Soon you will be flying“solo” with little thought of the moves required. It will just come naturally! Don’t get discouraged if you have a minor crack-up.Repair the damage and get back into the air as soon as possible.

GOOD LUCK AND SAFE FLYING!

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PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY!

LEARNING TO FLY R/C