short trips into the basel area

Info September 2006

NAV, working for you

We begin our short walk atthe Zschokke Fountain,right next to the museum ofart. Designed in 1941, the

three figures above the cascading waterrepresent the three ages of life: child-hood, adolescence and old age. Now wecross Dufourstrasse and enter the marvel-lous St-Alban-Vorstadt. We enjoy thesight of the magnificent buildings datingfrom the Gothic and Baroque periods andventure a glance into the dreamy interiorcourtyard of House no. 52. The splashingfountain creates the impression that wehave strayed into a patio in Seville.Awoken from our dream, we find our-selves back again on the street immedi-ately in front of one of the six surviving“Basler Dybli” (dove-style) letter boxesfrom the year 1844. From here, we catchsight of the restaurant St.Alban-Eck (atthe corner of Malzgasse). The first floorfeatures the meeting room of the Zunftzum Himmel (Heavenly Guild) to whichthe artist Hans Holbein once belonged.Now, we turn back to Schöneck Fountain,at the point where the Mühlebergbranches off from St. Alban-Vorstadt. Thehouse “zum hohen Dolder” was builthere in 1502. It is home to a magnifi-cently painted gothic wooden ceiling.Now, we stroll down the Mühleberg andimmerse ourselves directly in the highmedieval period after entering the oldSankt Alban Monastery cemetery on theright. Here, I like to sit down on a littlebench under the tall chestnut trees andread tales which fit in well with thisslightly scary place. They take the readerto Dartmoor in England. Tales of thedance of death which was performeduntil recently in these gardens also makefitting reading. After the goose pimples

have gone and with our energies revived,we look left from the church entrancetowards the part of the monastery clois-ters which has survived; the 20 Roman-esque arches from the year 1083 areamong the oldest surviving buildings inSwitzerland! You can easily imaginewatching the Cluny monks as they exer-cise in the cloisters. This was also theplace where Basel’s famous painter,Arnold Böcklin, grew up. We now contin-ue round the simple gothic church, acrossan arm of the Sankt Alban Pond, past theyouth hostel (formerly Sarasin’s silk rib-bon factory) to the picturesque littlesquare in front of the Schindelhof. This iswhere wooden shingles and water pipeswere once made; the city fountain masteralso lived here. Just round the cornerfrom this house, we come upon thePfefferhof and our gaze stretches out onthe right across the arm of the pondbetween the medieval walls and furtheron downwards. Here, we breathe a touchof the unmistakable air of Venice withoutleaving our own home town. The littlebridge over another arm of the pondtakes us to the preserved part of the citywall, the Letzimauer with the Letzi Tower.We owe the good state of preservation ofthe wall, as indeed that of the whole dis-trict (including some bold new buildings)

to the Christoph Merian Foundation. Nowit is time to follow the wall on towardsthe River Rhine and the Paper Museum.From our vantage point on the bridge,we can watch the great water wheelpowered by the Sankt Alban Dych. Thehouse on the right (with a restaurant) isthe Gallician Mill, the oldest dwellinghouse in this district. Its pendant on theleft (with the entrance to the Museum) isthe Stegreif Mill which has been com-pletely rebuilt (by the Christoph MerianFoundation). The two imposing houseswith the wooden wheel separated by thepond still give us a good impression ofthe important role once played here bythe craft trades and water power.Activities ranged from shingle making,sawing, forging, floating, weaving, dye-ing and tobacco processing to papermaking – which became a key activityhere after the Council of Basel.

Now we have certainly merited a littlerefreshment and it is time to enter one ofthe taverns (ranging from imposing tooriginal). The distinctive feature of theGolden Star on whose terrace you can letyourself be carried away into a warmmood of Provence under the spreadingchestnut trees, is that it was transferredstone by stone to its present site from itsoriginal location in the Aeschenvorstadt.

Refreshed, we now move on to theMuseum of Contemporary Art whichembodies a unique combination of oldand new architectural features. As a par-ticularly worthwhile tip, I would recom-mend its roof terrace from which thewhole area that we have visited can nowbe admired from on high. After leavingthe museum, a short visit to the KneippFountain on the left is called for. We cansoak our arms in the cool spring waterand leave the Sankt Alban district on themost modern of the four Rhine ferries,suitably refreshed and relaxed. On reach-ing the bank of the Rhine in Kleinbasel,we enjoy the last and finest view of themagnificent “Dalbeloch.”

Places of interests in Basel, Regio and Interregio – Part 1: Basel

Picturesque Basel – Sankt Alban – “My favourite walk”To safeguard the much vaunted work-life balance, we need times when wecan really switch off and enjoy ourselves in a pleasant, homely environment.Today, we are therefore starting a new series describing such highly personal“resource places.”

Info Dezember 2006


Seen from Birstal Valley, this is a rectangular tower dominat-ing the trees on Landskron Mountain. From the road lead-ing from Hofstetten to Mariastein, the exposed side on therocky promontory with its restored residential tower and

the damaged powder tower are clearly visible. Between them liethe ruins of the big bastion whose windows now look out intovacant space. The history of the castle began in 1297 when“monks” built the fortress here. Following the strengthening byEmperor Maximilian in the years 1515 to 1518, Vauban was com-missioned in 1690 to extend and reinforce the castle to accom-modate up to 300 persons. A picture of the Landskron hangs inthe Mariastein Monastery Church. Alongside the Landskron as itwas in 1543, the story of the demise of Junker Thüring Reich vonReichenstein in 1541 as he fell over the Mariastein rocks is alsorecorded. In 1813 the fortress was seized by the Bavarians andAustrians from the French and blown up following a fire. In 1857the family of the Barons of Reinach acquired the ruins. After beingelevated to the status of a classified historic monument in1923, monkeys were kept on the ruin for some ten years in around1970. The Pro Landskron Association acquired the ruin in 1984and set about its conservation and restoration with a great deal ofcommitment and financial resources. On the last fine Sunday after-noon in September, I had an opportunity, with a retired colleague,

to visit his vineyard located right below the ruin. On this particularday the Riesling-Silvaner, Chasselas, Blue Burgundy, Pinot Auxer-rois and Färber grapes were still in very good condition. Therefractometor showed an alcoholic strength of 10.2%. After leav-ing the vineyard, we climbed up to the castle together. Here, herecalled his youth in Tannwald (a district of Leimen), where hisplayground included the whole castle area over a length of some500 metres. We took the track which has now been paved withstones from Basel to circle up and reach the castle where we clim-bed the residential tower by the spiral staircase. The staircase lead-ing up to this tower in semidarkness made our hearts beat loud(from fear or effort?) until we reached the open platform on thetower. On clear days you can enjoy a magnificent view of theVosges Mountains across the Black Forest to the Jura. Down belowlies the Leimental Valley leading to Basel and the great Rhine Basin.This view is also recorded in a newly installed panoramic display.

Down in the Tannwald, your gaze is attracted back to the placeyou have come from. We are both looking forward to our nextvisit. I am grateful to Max Wyss for his spontaneous assistance!

Further information for people with an interest in historicaldetails: www.pro-landskron.ch

Association for the Conservation of Landskron, Pro LandskronGuided tours can be arranged by: Max Wyss, 0033 389 68 53 40.

How to reach the LandskronImportant: you will need valid identity papers and strong shoes! – Flüh, marked trail leading steeply up to the Landskron ruin,

about 1 hour on foot – Mariastein, marked trail leading to the Landskron ruin, about

1 hour on foot – Leimen, tram station, pedestrian route marked via the made-

up road Access to the restaurant in Tannwald possi-ble by car. Very good public transport ser-vice: www.blt.ch. Tram line No. 10 to Flühor Leimen, bus line to Hofstetten/Maria-stein

One last requestThe castle has been damaged enough.Please take great care even if children likereliving the middle ages!

I do hope you enjoy your strenuous visit tothe Landskron

Peter Bernauer,

member of the NAV-board

Sights worth seeing in Basel, the Regio and Interregio, 2nd contribution

The ruins of Landskron CastleThe Landskron ruin is one of those places where history becomes perceptible and you might easily write furtherchapters yourself. Although the ruin is freely accessibleand occupies a dominant position directly on the frontierbetween France and Switzerland, the route by which visi-tors reach Landskron is an adventure in its own right.

Info Februar 2007

Holzen, with barely 600 inhabi-tants, lies on the sunny hills ofthe Markgräflerland district, inthe extreme South-Western

corner of Germany. Holzen is in fact nowpart of Kandern local authority in theprovincial district of Lörrach. TheKandertal Valley with its picturesque littlevillages, separated by extensive fields,vineyards, soft fruit growing farms, the

castle of Bürgeln and the Kandertal railway offers a host of inter-esting sights.

In the summer months, you can visit the Kandertal by steamtrain every Sunday. The “Chanderli,” as the Kandertal railway isknown locally in popular parlance, was opened in 1895 andclosed again in 1983. After the formation of the MuseumRailway Association, the steam train was reopened in 1986. TheKandertal railway runs from Haltingen on a 13 km stretch of linethrough the Kandertal to the heart of the valley at Kandern, atthe foot of Hochblauen mountain. Kandern is well-known as atown of pretzel makers and potters. Through its famous formerinhabitant Johann August Sutter, who went on to live in theBasel area before moving to the USA, close contacts are main-tained with Sacramento, a city of some 400,000 inhabitants, notfar from San Francisco.

Holzen, the village of storks, is a jewel in the Kandertal. Since1974, this parish has been part of the town of Kandern. The firstwritten mention of Holzen dates back to the year 1249. That

reference will be found in an ancient deed which is kept inSaint Alban’s Monastery in Basel. The Celts are

already said to have lived in asettlement close to the

present Holzen wherethey extracted min-

eral ores. That issuggested by

Things to see in Basel, Regio and Interregio – Part 3: Germany

A “homage” to Holzenin the Kandertal ValleyThe little village of Holzen, set in theattractive landscape of South Baden,invites visitors to stay a while. Any-one who takes a little time to strollthrough the village will be aston-ished by the many little attractivefeatures which Holzen has to offer.


Info Februar 2007

the ancient mine workings not far fromthe present Holzen. Perhaps the Romans,who are believed to have operated minesin this area, also came here. The highwayrunning from Kandern via Hammersteinto Holzen was certainly built by theRomans.

Holzen, the village of storks, set amidan attractive and peaceful landscape, hasplenty of treasures to its name. The manystorks who proudly defy the winds intheir nests on the church tower or on thehouse gables are just one of them. In thevillage, there is a stork park where a dailyfeeding session can be watched. Nowa-

days, many storks spend the whole win-ter in Holzen. The sound of their “chat-tering” can be heard everywhere in themeadows and on the roofs. Many occu-pied nests can be seen on church towersin the environs of Holzen and Tannenkirch,Mappach, Efringen-Kirchen and Märkt.

The craft trades are pursued busily inHolzen. Pottery is well-known and popu-lar and an active business in the maintown of Kandern and also in Holzen. Onour stroll through the carefully preservedbut also varied, interesting and peacefulvillage, we can admire masterpieces inthe Red House Pottery.

On our walk to the pottery, we pass ahouse where you can hear a witch talkingfor a 50 euro cent! She tells of a storkwho collided with a hot air balloon inHolzen.

Art takes pride of place in Holzen.There is even a university for senior citi-zens in this little locality in South Baden.This private establishment of higher edu-cation encourages senior citizens to fol-low courses of further scientific training.Through a fusion between the naturaland philosophical sciences and the arts,the idea is to revive aesthetics in Holzenin its original form as a theory. The inten-

Info August 200736

Other parts of this line are used today as bridge pillars(Palmrain road bridge Weil–Huningue) or else havebeen closed down (Schopfheim–Wehr–Bad Säckin-gen). The line running along the Swiss frontier from

Waldshut to Tuttlingen was still classified until 1975 by NATO asmilitarily important and therefore properly maintained. Thebridge structures were designed from the outset for twin-trackoperation, but now only carry a single track. This line was notmuch used by local residents and for freight transport; it wastherefore closed by the German Federal Railways in 1975. Since1977, museum trains have been run at weekends, operated asthe Wutachtal railway, on the Zollhaus-Blumberg to Weizen sec-tion. The railway depot is at Fützen. A number of hiking trailsalong the railway line are signposted. Normally, a tender loco-motive hauls a train of veteran second class German and Swisspassenger carriages. Other compositions can also be encoun-tered on this line from time to time.

The journey from Zollhaus-Blumberg to Weizen, through thehilly landscape on the railway line laid out in the shape of a“pig’s tail” (Sauschwänzle) with bridges, viaducts and reversingtunnel lasts around 58 minutes. Children and adults alike are fas-cinated. The easy gradient of the line is striking; it was designedfor low-powered locomotives with ordinary trains. The linetherefore had to be longer than usual to overcome the heightdifference of 503 metres. That is apparent today in the elegantcivil engineering works and embankments on which the railwaycrosses villages and low-lying land. The view from the train ismagnificent (watch out for soot particles!). But trainspottingalong the track is also great fun and readily possible. The muse-um at Zollhaus-Blumberg helps visitors to immerse themselvesinto the history of the railway.

Information to plan an excursion on the “Sauschwänzle”railway available from Internet:www.sauschwaenzlebahn.deTicket prices in euro: return/single

Adults: EUR 14,–/11,–, Children EUR 7,–/5,–, Family with children abovethe age of 4 EUR 35,–/26,–Map: Leisure map 509 Waldshut-Tiengen,Baden-Württemberg Provincial SurveyOffice, 1:50,000

Wutachtal railwayFull service until 3.10.2007 (until 21.10.2007 not all the trains are still running!):Saturdays and Sundays (10:00 departs Zollhaus-Blumberg) and return from Weizen(11:30)Also Sundays (14:05 departs Zollhaus-Blumberg) and return from Weizen(15:40)

Vehicular access (Waldshut–Blumberg road B314)Car parking space for passengers at Weizen station and alsopossible at the other stations

Railway On Sundays, the Baden-Württemberg card is valid for DB feedertrains Waldshut Weizen Weizen Waldshutdepart 9:55 arrive 11:03 depart 11:55 arrive 12:35

Waldshut Weizen Weizen Waldshutdepart 13:55 arrive 15:03 depart 15.15 arrive 16:35

PricesBaden-Württemberg card EUR 27,– (up to 5 persons) and single EUR 18,– (at the ticket counter + EUR 2,–)This card is not valid for the Wutachtal railway as such(Sauschwänzle!)

Final note: when I travelled, the train was very full. A telephoneenquiry may therefore be useful!

Have a nice tripPeter Bernauer

For 30 years now passengers have again been able to travel by “steam rail-way” from Zollhaus-Blumberg to Weizen and back again. This line was part ofthe military railway link opened in 1890 from Bavaria to Mulhouse in Alsacewithout passing through Swiss territory.


Sights worth seeing in Basel, the Regio and Interregio, Part 4: Germany

The “Sauschwänzle” railway

ing hours, anyone can pass through theturnstile and gain access to the tower inreturn for a small contribution of onefranc per person. Then, you can take oneof the two stone stairways along theexternal wall to reach the first platform.From this platform a narrow spiral stair-case leads further up until you reach theviewing level. This viewing platform is 32meters above the ground or 150 metersabove the level of the Rhine, equivalentto 397 meters above sea level. Here, thevisitor can walk right round the towerand enjoy the view over an extensiveregion. In fine, clear weather the pano-rama is stunning!

How to reach the Water TowerI advise you to use public transport. Takethe number 15 tram to the Airolostrassestop and then walk along the WaterTower promenade until you reach thefoot of this symbol of the Bruderholz inaround 10 minutes. In fine weather, witha clear view, you and your family willenjoy this unforgettable excursion.

Opening hoursApril to September 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.October to March 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Daniel Linder, vice president

Info Dezember 2007


But before taking a closer look atthe water tower, let us turn backthe wheel of time, in fact to theyear 1250. That was when the

first simple fountains were built at theMünster and Spalenwerk to provide apublic water supply (the water came fromthe Holee and Bruderholz springs). Thismade Basel the first Swiss city to have apublic water supply. In 1866, the firstpressurized water supply to the houses inBasel City was opened via pipes from theBruderholz. 1879: the Basel gas andwaterworks were set up and groundwater first used at the Lange Erlen. In

1903, the new Bruderholz reservoir witha capacity of 14,000 m3 was completed.In 1926, the Water Tower on theBruderholz was commissioned with aground level and tower reservoir.

The reservoirs are designed to maintainpressure and balance out daily variationsin water consumption. The reservoirsused for this purpose have a total capac-ity of 38,500 m3. They are located atAllschwil, the Wenkenhof at Riehen andalso on the Bruderholz itself. The WaterTower is used as a high level supply to theareas lying at a higher altitude. The WaterTower contains two elevated zones with acombined capacity of some 820 m3.

In 2001, the Water Tower was refur-bished and new external lighting installed.

What makes the Water Tower so special?It is accessible to everyone without priorappointment. It is opened in the morningand closed again at dusk. In the interven-

In 1926, the Water Tower on theBruderholz was built as a pressureequalizing reservoir to supply waterto the city of Basel; this tower canbe accessed by visitors and has aviewing platform.

Sights worth seeing in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – Part 5, Basel

The Water Tower on the Bruderholz

info März 2008

Ottmarsheim is situated closeto the Rhine on the oldRoman highway from Augst(Basel) to Strasbourg. The

name is said to be derived from AbbotOtmar of St Gallen who introduced theBenedictine order here in the year 720 orthereabouts. St Gallen monastery ownedland near what is now Ottmarsheim andin many other places. In 1030, theHabsburger Rudolf von Altenburg and hiswife Kunigunde founded the Benedictinemonastery of Ottmarsheim for which theabbey church was also built. When themonastery was nationalized in 1792, theparish was able to buy the abbey churchbuilt in the 11th century for use as aparish church and so saved it from demo-lition. All the monastery buildings werepulled down; only the guest house builtin 1711 was kept for use as the gendar-merie barracks. The history of the churchtells of the “punitive expedition“ by thepeople of Basel against Habsburg in1272, the civil war of 1525, the plunder-ing incursions by the Swedes in the 30-year war between 1618 and 1648 andmany other events in the course of whichserious damage occurred.

For me, a visit to this Romanesquechurch brings back many memories. As amodel of an octagonal Romanesque build-ing, we were asked to draw a plan of itslayout in our history exercise book atschool; in the history of the Habsburgers,it is a landmark of the Upper Rhine basin;I first visited the monument on a cycletour of Alsace fifty years ago. Later I wasshocked by the fire which damaged thechurch in 1991 and delighted by my firstvisit after the successful restoration.

The church itself makes an elegant andimpressive sight in the center of the lo-cality of Ottmarsheim. The tower andsome other rooms have been builtaround the octagonal body of the churchand create a distinctive outline, especiallywhen the building is viewed from thesouth. From the west, the tower with the main entrance stands in front of the whole complex. The interior spacewith the round arches and cloisters has

wonderful acoustics, while the windowscreate a wonderful play of light inside thebuilding. The frescoes and other detailsleave plenty of scope for personal disco-veries …

Anyone who is interested will find agreat deal of information and pictorialmaterial on the Internet. But no descrip-tions, however long, can replace a per-sonal visit to this church. The building isreadily accessible by cycle or car. A mealwas impossible to come by in Ottmars-heim itself on Sunday as all the restau-rants were closed. However, the churchitself was open in the afternoon and that,after all, was the reason for our visit tothis old familiar place!

Peter Bernauer

Sights worth seeing in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – Part 6,Alsace, France

The Romanesque abbey church inOttmarsheimThe church in Ottmarsheim was built in the 11th century on the model of thePalatinate Chapel in Aix-La-Chapelle. Together with other buildings in theUpper Rhine flood plain, it is a fine example of this style of building. The inte-rior can be visited at the weekend and features an octagonal space with out-standing acoustics and frescoes.


info Juni 2008


The railway station is a historicmonument which has beenenhanced by the fountains play-ing in the forecourt. The hiking

path (yellow signs) leads across an oldstone bridge over the River Sorne to theold city. The distinctive tower of St-Marcel’s Church can be seen from allsides, standing watch like a guardian andtelling the time to all comers. TheWolfstor (Wolf Gate) and the PruntrutGate still protect the roads leading to theold city. At its heart, beautiful narrowstreets and open squares await us,together with the Palace of the PrinceBishop, the building which houses theParliament of Jura Canton and five beau-tiful fountains in the Renaissance styledating from the 16th century.

In the Vorbourg, we come across St-Imier Chapel built in 1586 with the stat-

ue of the Virgin Mary dating from 1869;this has remained a popular destinationfor pilgrimages, even after the Kultur-kampf or religious struggles.

Limestone as a building material givesthe cities and villages in the Jura their typ-ical appearance; clean but also hot insummer and defiantly robust in the win-ter cold.

But the people of the Jura like to liveout in the streets. When I visited the townon Saturday, the market and flea marketwere in full swing. Everything was onsale, ranging from Jura cheese, throughitems from the desert, Asian menus andflowers to articles enticingly laid out forvisitors to inspect in the flea market.

A meal in the Restaurant La Croix onthe Place Roland-Béguelin was deliciousand visitors were able to reminisce on theseparation from Bern Canton not so long

Things to see in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – 7th contribution from the Jura, Switzerland

The City of Delémont, also known as Delsberg When you travel by rail from Basel via Delémont to the French-speaking partof Switzerland, your train always stops in Delémont to change direction. Buta tour of the old city will soon convince you that Delémont is worth far morethan just a brief stop.

ago in the year 1979 with all its accom-panying controversy. This put an end tothe affiliation of much of the Basel bish-opric to Bern which had been decided atthe Congress of Vienna back in 1815.

Iron was smelted in Delémont longago. When I was an apprentice we couldvisit the Von Roll foundry at the Rondezworks. Today, you can still see the mouldsin which so many of the manhole coverson Swiss streets were cast. Not far awayis the circular locomotive depot (knownas La Rotonde) with its two turntables,old carriages and locomotives from thedays between 1875 up to 1920. They arebeing carefully restored and will soon beon the rails again as a complete train.Some exhibits are always on display hereat a branch of the Swiss Museum ofTransport along with material belongingto the HEG (Historical Railway Society).The Rotonde is open to visitors on just afew days each year. The fact that the peo-ple of the Jura are still proud of theirmetal-processing works is amply demon-strated by the locally produced Wengerknife which was of course provided forguests to cut their pizza and steak. A citywhich has taken great care of its imageand radiates the flair of French-speakingSwitzerland with its inhabitants who lovelife, was justifiably rewarded with theWakker Prize in 2006.

There is a good train service to Delé-mont from Basel. Road access is also easy.Hikes from and to Delémont can easily bearranged.

Information on meals: La Croix Restau-rant is open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. andfrom 5 p.m. until 11.30 p.m.. Sundayfrom 5 p.m. only. Closed on Monday!

Peter Bernauer

Information about Delémont /Delsberg can be found on theInternetwww.delemont.ch/(Information about Delémont)www.volldampf.ch/(Rotonde, locomotive depot)

Marché aux puces (flea market)5.7., 2.8. and 6.9.2008

info September 2008

Kaysersberg is a typical smalltown of this region with a pop-ulation of around 3,500. Thepicturesque locality with its

medieval atmosphere invites visitors tolinger. The half-timbered houses built inthe 16th and 17th centuries are well tended and colorful. Some of the roofshave brightly colored patterns, while thefacades, windows and balconies aredecked out with attractive greenery.Kaysersberg is also known far and widefor its truly romantic Christmas market.

Artistic wrought iron signs remindpassers-by of local crafts, vintners andtaverns.

In the early 19th century, Kaysersbergwas home to weaving and spinning mills.Today, just two major employers remain,a paper mill and the Alcon company (nowpart of Novartis) which manufacturesproducts here for contact lens wearers.

Kaysersberg owes its existence toEmperor Friedrich II of Hohenstaufen,who arranged for a bulwark to be builthere at a strategically important locationabove the narrow valley to command themilitary route from Lorraine to the Rhine.This locality was mentioned for the firsttime in the records in 1227 when Hein-rich VII, the son of Friedrich II, acquired theland rights to Kaysersberg castle whichhe extended into a great fortress. The

ruins of the castle which were destroyedin 1525 still tower over the city today.

Also in around 1227, the Benedictinesfounded a priory here which became amonastery in the year 1282. Along withColmar, Hagenau, Landau, Münster,Oberehnheim, Rosenheim, Schlettstadt,Türkheim and Weissenburg, Kaysersbergbelongs to the alliance of ten citiesfounded in the year 1354 and known asthe “Decapolis”; this alliance remained inexistence until 1648. Thereafter, the citywas secured with further fortress installa-tions. Parts of the medieval city walls andtowers dating from the 15th and 16thcenturies have survived, including the pic-turesque fortress bridge, together withthe “Kessler” and Witches’ Towers.

In the year 1648, Kaysersberg becamepart of France with the Peace of West-phalia. This peace treaty signed in Müns-ter and Osnabrück between the Emperorand France, Sweden and their alliesmarked the end of the Thirty Years War.

But Kaysersberg was also the birth-place of the prestigious doctor AlbertSchweitzer, who won the Nobel peaceprize in 1954. At the age of 24 hebecame a doctor of philosophy andalmost as a matter of course went on totake a doctorate in theology with a con-stant eye on the link between these twodisciplines. He was a passionate organplayer and dedicated to the restoration oforgans. He took the irreversible decisionto remain actively committed until theage of thirty to his own education andlove of science and music, after which heplanned to dedicate himself entirely to apurely humanitarian cause.

Shortly before his thirtieth birthday, heread a monthly report of a missionarysociety in Paris which complained of thelack of missionaries and doctors in theFrench-speaking parts of Africa. Evenbefore this, Schweitzer had heard hisfather speak of “the poorest of the poor”of this world and their hopeless condi-tion. The tales told by his father had

Things to see in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – 8th contribution: Kaysersberg in Alsace

Kaysersberg in Alsace – birthplace of a Nobel prize winnerKaysersberg lies on the Route duVin, at the heart of the Alsatianvineyards, some 10 km northeast ofColmar. This historically importantvillage is the best-known locality onthe Route du Vin along withEguisheim and Riquewihr. But wineis not the only thing which makesKaysersberg a popular excursiondestination. The world-famousNobel peace prize winner AlbertSchweitzer was born here in 1875.

caused him many a headache, but he hadnot yet established any link with his ownperson. However, “I had now found myown goal,” as he later wrote. Although,at the age of thirty, he was already one ofthe most prestigious university teachers,he began again from square one anddedicated the next few years wholeheart-edly to the study of medicine. He went onto specialize in tropical diseases and start-ed a collection to build a hospital inLambarene (Africa). With donations andby giving a stream of concerts, he collect-ed 5,000 dollars, enough to assure hiswork in Africa for two years. In 1913,Albert Schweitzer set sail for Africa andfounded the Lambarene Tropical Institutein the French Congo.

He had followed a vocation whichcame from his innermost soul and hisstrength resided in the ability to remaintrue to himself. This vocation reflected anattitude entirely devoid of self-interestand he followed without any secondthought his inner urge to put into prac-tice a Christian ethic colored by gen-erosity and love of our neighbors; hislong and thorough preparation and ex-ceptional perseverance promoted thecourse of his project. Albert Schweitzerand his life’s work won many honors andin 1928 he was awarded the Goetheprize of the City of Frankfurt for his liter-ary achievements, followed in 1951 bythe peace prize of the German booktrade and in 1954, the Nobel peace prize.In 1955, he was awarded the FrenchPeace Order “Pour le Mérite.” In 1965,Albert Schweitzer died in Lambarene atthe age of 90. The house where he wasborn at Kaysersberg in Alsace has beenturned into a museum.

When you visit Kaysersberg, I stronglyadvise you to pay a visit to the museum tolearn about his life’s work. You will find itwell worthwhile.

Henriette Brunner

NAV Chair


info November 2008

Acquaintances of mine have their own vineyard inMaisprach and it is my good fortune to help them withthe happy grape harvest almost every year. Winegrow-ing in Maisprach is a tradition dating back for cen-

turies. It was mentioned for the first time in the chronicles in1328. Grapes which yield fine and fruity wines with a rich bou-quet are reported to be grown on the exposed sandstone soilsof Maisprach.

Depending on the climatic conditions in the summer, the har-vest begins at the end of September or rather later in October.A possible date for the harvest is already set in August. The timewhen the grapes are ripe for picking depends mainly on thegrape variety and weather conditions. Inprinciple, the quality of the wine is betterthe longer the grapes are left on the vineand a higher Öchsle value can beachieved. I recall that in some years wehad to wait until the end of Octoberbefore harvesting the grapes. But thatwas always the key to an exceptional vin-tage!

Most of the winegrowers belong to wine cooperatives. Thatmakes the harvest a cheerful village festival. The winegrowersand their volunteer helpers armed with their rubber gloves andgrape secateurs can be seen cutting grapes all over the vineyardsand placing them in plastic skips. The full skips are generallypushed down to the collection point on sledges or big plasticbags through the rows of vines. In good harvest years, thebunches of grapes can simply be snipped off but in others acareful selection must be made. In other words, the unripe, rot-ten or mouldy grapes must be separated out. That is of coursean extremely delicate task but nevertheless essential to maintainquality. The manual grape harvest is a long-standing traditionand an experience, especially in fine autumn weather with a deli-cious wine for refreshment! An added bonus is the opportunityto taste some of the fresh grapes. After all, you have to checkhow these grapes may taste later in a delicious local wine fromthe Basel domains!

From the collection point in the vineyards, the grapes aretaken to the village square in Maisprach where they areweighed, checked and measured. The sugar content is measuredin degrees Öchsle, a unit which enables conclusions to be drawn

Things to see in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – 9th contribution: Grape harvest in the Basel region

Winegrowing at MaisprachWhen the evenings draw in and early autumn is upon us, winegrowers prepare for the wine harvest all overthe Basel region. Each year, at the end of August, beforethe grape harvest proper begins, the “Wy-Erläbnis” eventis held in the localities of Buus, Maisprach and Winter-singen. This is a culinary walk through the vineyards inthese localities.

about the potential alcoholic content of the wine. The weatherplays an important part here during the graperipening process.The higher the Öchsle value, the bigger the party!

The next step is processing in a wine cellar. For instance, ifwhite wine is to be produced the grapes are generally removedindividually by a machine (i.e. separation of the berries from thestem) and crushed in a mill. The mixture produced in this way iscalled the marc or pomace. This marc is then pressed out in awine press. This enables the grape residue to be separated fromthe must (sweet grape juice). The other materials (peel, seeds,stems) can later on be processed to make grappa.

The must obtained in this way is now sulphited and left to fer-ment. This process (addition of a special yeast) lasts for some 6to 8 days during which the sugar present in the must is convert-ed into alcohol. White wine ferments at 15 to 18°C and red wineat 22 to 25°C. After the fermentation process most wines havean alcoholic content of between 8 and 13 percent by volume.

After the fermentation period, when the dead yeast has sunkto the bottom of the vat, it is drawn off and the remaining fluidtransferred to different containers. This “young wine” as it isknown is now left to mature for around six months in woodenbarrels or steel tanks. During this period, the fine yeast which

has not sunk to the bottom of the fluidferments and the wine breaks down pro-teins and tartaric acid salts. Depending onthe particular variety of wine, the youngwine now undergoes further processing(transfer to a new container, filtration andother subsequent treatments).

Red wine production differs essentiallyin the sequence of working steps. For red

wine the marc is fermented.Storage of the wine (in a barrel or bottle) can have a decisive

influence on its quality and taste. White wines are often bottledafter storage for only a short period and then put on the market, as nowadays consumers generally prefer young andfresh wines. On the other hand, high-quality wines are not usually bottled until they have been stored for a much longerperiod.

In our region, the “new” wine is called “Suuser.” ManyAustrians refer to it as “Sturm” and some Germans simply callthe fresh wine the “Neuer.”

It remains for me to wish you good health! And why not gofor a walk through our vineyards? You will find the experiencewell worthwhile!

Sabine Zeller

NAV Executive Member

Detailed informationwww.maisprach.chwww.maispracher.chwww.daswyerlaebnis.chwww.buessvins.ch


between Duke and General Louis Hectorde Villars and the Habsburgs after he and20,000 of his men from Hüningen haddestroyed the stronghold of Friedlingen.They retreated after a force of equalstrength under Margrave Ludwig Wil-helm I of Baden came against them. The2,000 who fell in the battle are buriednear the Käferholz.

Nowadays we have other reasons tovisit the Tüllinger Hill. The Ottilia Churchon the hill can be seen for miles aroundand clearly shows us the way. There are

ments of Untertüllingen and Obertüllin-gen, the only other place marked is theKäferholz in the forest on the ridge of thehill and said to have been named after theMay Beetle. History tells us that in 1702the Käferholz was the site of a battle

The residents of villages andtowns around Hill Tüllingen, asthe hill is known in Switzerland,best know this as being a view

point above Weil’s old town center.However, on the maps, besides the settle-

info März 2009

Sights worth seeing in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – 10th contribution: From the Wiesental, Germany

The Ottilia Church on Mount TüllingenThe view points near Basel are suitable for a Sunday visit or as a startingpoint for longer hikes. Weather permitting, much of the Regio may be seenfrom here. The Ottilia Church on Mount Tüllingen is one of its most attractivefeatures.


info März 2009

plenty of delightful little nooks and mar-velous views to keep us occupied as wemake our way through the vines, andsoon we reach the top after goingthrough the Schlipf (i.e. slip) and passinggardens. It is easy to see where the earthhas moved at the bends of the roadsbetween Weil and Tüllingen. The name ofthe area known as the Schlipf (which ispart of the Swiss community of Riehen) isclearly derived from “schlüpfrig”, theGerman word for slippery, and the engi-neers now building the new route fromWeil to Lörrach will be in no doubt of thatat all. The agreement made on July 27,1852, regarding the extension to theBaden railways allowed for the route tocross Swiss territory, and this is only nowbeing built. We do hope though that thisis not going to adversely affect any ofthat fine Schlipf wine!

At last we see the Ottilia Church’s sup-porting wall rearing up before us like awell-fortified bastion. And when we getup onto the terrace in front of the chapelan absolutely stunning panorama unfoldsbefore our eyes – not only over Basel butalso of the Rhine Valley as far as theVosges Mountains and the Jura range.Looking back, we can all but marvel atthe view of the Wiesental and extendingright up to the Black Forest. The chapelitself was mentioned in a letter of protec-tion from Pope Callixtus lll for St. Blaise’sAbbey. Basel schoolchildren all learnabout the legend of the three virgins St.Cristinia (St. Chrischona), St. Margarethaand St. Ottilia who, along with St. Ursulaand the 11,000 Virgins, passed Basel ontheir pilgrimage from England to Rome inthe 5th century AD (3rd century AD,according to other sources). These threeare said to have each settled and built achurch on one of the hills of St. Chri-schona, St. Margaretha and Tüllingen.Legend has it that candlelight glowedevery evening in each of the spires as atoken of the inviolate state of these virgins. One thing is sure, however, the St. Chrischona, St. Margaretha and Ottiliachurches are all within sight of oneanother …

The interior of the church is simple andbright, and we find it very conducive tospending a moment in meditation here.Before setting out on the homeward jour-ney, however, we need to spare athought for the route we will take as

there is nowhere to stop for a meal any-where near the church nor on MountTüllinger itself. We can either stop for abite to eat somewhere near (Unter-)Tüllingen, or press on ahead to more dis-tant goals such as Rötteln Castle, Öttlin-gen-Binzen or others. The thought ofpressing on to one of these destinationsbrings to my mind that sound advice Ireceived while still a youth – always carrysomething to drink and maybe even

some food, as the longer routes are oftendevoid of anywhere to quench one’sthirst. That is certainly the case here insummer up on the ridge of Mount Tül-lingen. The wind may make it a greatplace to fly a kite, but it is also sure toleave you parched.

So, let me wish you lots of fun, as youenjoy fine weather with great views.

Peter Bernauer

How to get thereBlack Forest Society hiking trailsThe church is located right on the western route that extends from the Basel Bad.Station through the Langen Erlen (with its animals) and along the Wiese River tothe national border between Riehen and Weil. You can get to the same place bytaking the no. 6 tram as far as the Weilstrasse stop (near the Beyeler Museum).From here it is a mere 500 meters to the Wiese River. Behind the bridge you willsee a yellow sign that points the way to the Ottilia Church on Mount Tüllingen.Good hiking boots are required for this route.

If your time is limited, you may choose the approx. one-hour walk from theWeilstrasse tram stop to the Ottilia Church – an ascent of 120 meters. Do checkyour map for other routes to suit your level of fitness and time available.

Hiking mapsBaden-Württemberg recreational map, sheet 508, Lörrach, 1:50,000Map of Switzerland, sheet 213T, Laufental-Sundgau-Wiesental, 1:50,000

Direct access by car from Weil or Lörrach via (Unter-)Tüllingen to the parking area inObertüllingen.

Public transportScheduled buses run from Lörrach.

Important: The trail crosses the Swiss-German border – so it’s essential tocarry your identity papers with you.

Today two persons are in thenews under the name ofFerrette or Pfirt in German: theCount of Monaco who bears

the title Comte de Ferrette (Graf von Pfirt)and the “cheese whisperer” BernardAntony. The former capital of theSundgau is said to have been founded inthe year 1105 when Hohenpfirt castlewas built by the first count Frédéric deFerrette. After his eldest daughter Jeannemarried the Habsburg ruler Albert II in1324, the county passed to the Habs-burgs whose reign did not end here until1648. History is relived at the “FêtesMédiévales”, or medieval festivities, whichare held once every two years alternatingwith those of Saint-Ursanne (in the SwissJura/July 2009).

My first memories of Ferrette arelinked to the brown bus operated byTransports Citroën; it ran from Ferrette tothe French railway station in Basel. Thatimage in my mind’s eye closely resemblesa film by Jacques Tati: the overladen buswith luggage on the roof and a ladder atthe rear. When this link was suspended in1973 or thereabouts, I wanted to experi-ence the same feeling again but arrivedone day too late in Pfirt. I can still feel mysore feet after walking back the 12 km toRodersdorf. Today we can park our carsdirectly in Ferrette or nearby. The routestakes us from the car park in front of St-Bernard Church and then up steeplybetween the houses to the Hôtel de Ville

info Juni 2009

Things to see in Basel, the Regio and Interregio – 11th contribution from Alsace, France

Ferrette, the former capital of theSundgau

Ferrette, also known as Pfirt, lies in anarrow valley in the Jura mountains,12 km from the Swiss border in theSundgau. Cyclists, cheese lovers andconnoisseurs of the princely Houseof Monaco will probably be familiarwith this little town already. Foreveryone else, an excursion brings amedieval experience and interestingpanoramas.


info Juni 2009

or Town Hall from which we can beginthe direct ascent to the ruined castle ofHohenpfirt. The stairways lead up to theBurgweg which takes us to the viewingplatform in the castle. In fine weather vis-itors can look out over the upper Rhineplain far away to the Black Forest, givingfree rein to their thoughts. Directlybeneath us lie the houses densely packedbelow the castle hill. Behind us we seethe green hills of the Jura. Many hikingroutes are well marked from the castlehill. We chose the trail leading to theGrotte des Nains or Dwarfs’ Grotto. Viathe Heideflüh viewpoint which lies on arocky outcrop to the east of the ruinedcastle we followed the route to the grotto.

After resting at lunch on a viewpointon the cliffs above the Grotte des Nains,we walked down through the wood tothe grotto.

The walls of rock constrict our routeand at the foot of one such wall we comeacross the little cave in the rocks. Un-fortunately we have not brought torcheswith us to explore the undergroundworld. But the information provided onthe rocks immediately in front of thegrotto is interesting and a key to a differ-ent world, especially for children. The

return journey leads us around the castlehill to the barracks from which we reachthe eastern entrance of Ferrette and gostraight to the upper part of the town.Meanwhile, the sun has changed its posi-tion in the sky and its rays are shining onthe row of houses facing the mountain.Picturesque corners and several finelydecorated houses can be admired in thebrilliant afternoon sun. The gardenrestaurants are an attractive venue, whilethe tunes played by the bells of thechurch tower clock give us a discreetreminder that it is time to start out on ourjourney home. After a pleasant stay, weleave Ferrette and cast a glance backfrom the southern heights onto the littletown and the castle towering over it.

Description of the routeFerrette is some 30 km south ofMulhouse, around 25 km west of Basel.We chose the road via Leymen, Wolsch-willer, Sondersdorf and reached Ferrettefrom the south across the hill.

The hiking trail from Rodersdorf toFerrette is marked out over around 12 km.The routes leading up to the ruinedHohenpfirt castle in Ferrette are wellidentified and marked. Many other trails

lead to the Grotte des Nains and otherdestinations through romantic rock for-mations and woodland.

Hiking mapsClub Vosgien Map N7/8 “Sud Alsace/Nord Franche-Comté/Mulhouse/Masevaux/Belfort/Montbéliard“ 1:50,000

Swiss National Map Sheet 213TLaufental-Sundgau-Wiesental 1:50,000

Peter Bernauer

ImportantThe routes up to the ruined castle,the Grotte des Nains and aroundFerrette pass through woodlandsometimes over loose stones; goodwalking shoes are essential for suchexcursions! Hikers need to have asure footing, especially on the smal-ler trails.

info September 2009


post office and take the trail (Chräiegg-Rundweg) towards Schönthal Monasterywhich you will reach in 30 minutes. If youhave your own means of transport, takeYou reach the village on the

Obere Hauenstein pass via Lies-tal and Waldenburg. Here youalight from the ÖV bus at the

Today, we are taking you on a stroll along the southern edge of our Regio Basiliensis up into the wonderful Jura mountains close to the formerLangenbruck high altitude spa.

the branch road for Schönthal/Bölchen inthe middle of the village. Past Oskar Bider-Baracke (Museum of Swiss Air Pioneers),after driving for another 5 minutes youcome upon Schönthal Monastery set in aquiet wooded valley surrounded by thehigh fruit trees which are such a typicalfeature of this area.

The very first encounter with thismonastery reveals its unique character.

Things to see in Basel, Regio and Interregio – 12th contribution from Basel Land Canton, Switzerland

Schönthal Monastery – where history,art and nature join up

info September 2009

The Romanesque western façade fea-tures a half-timbered structure, friezesand ornate decorative figures, a mainportal with leaf decoration and an“Agnus Dei” representation surmountedby a round window with a knight andlion at the base and a figure at the apexsymbolising the fight between good andevil. This façade is unrivalled in BasellandCanton and is a fine example of theUpper Rhenish style.

As was usual in the high middle ages,a monastery was founded by a noblefamily at this strategically important pass.In 1145, the Counts of Froburg beganconstruction work and the inaugurationin 1187 is mentioned in the chronicles.

After the Reformation, the entiredomain was sold to Basel Civic Hospitaland went on to be used for temporal pur-poses. In the 19th century, a family fromBasel acquired the whole estate andtreated it with loving care down the gen-erations until it was finally placed untilcantonal protection in 1966.

In the annexes to the main building,you will find a smoking kitchen and agothic wooden ceiling (the monasteryrefectory), hotel rooms (guest house), thehistorical monastery and kitchen gardenand a multi-functional exhibition room(formerly the monastery church).

That brings us to the no less excitingpresent day. Since the turn of the millen-nium, John Schmid has put into effect hisbrilliant if somewhat mad idea: in thiswonderful Jura landscape he has laid outa park with contemporary works of sculp-ture. Here, Dear Reader, you can exploreyour own world of art and experience thissculpture park in an altogether originalway. You are advised to start your tour inthe monastery courtyard. Here you canalso borrow rubber boots in wet weather.You will be handed a site plan and otherliterature to find your way around (openFriday to Sunday every week). For thecostly maintenance of this art park, visi-tors are asked to pay their own contribu-tion (CHF 10.- per person/CHF 20.- forfamilies).

My own personal favourites are“Minotaur” (by N. Hicks), “Soglio”(N.Hall), “Recovered Memory” (N.Hicks),“Twisted Oak” (D.Nash) and “Spring”(N.Hall), as well as the very latest installa-tion in the upper Feldscheure in the valleyleading to Bölchen on your right; the

prospect from here over the entireSchönthal Valley is grandiose. The con-temporary “Frames” also call attention tounexpected and interesting aspects(www.schoenthal.ch)!

On no account miss a visit to KäthisLädeli (by the Bölchen highway), whichmust surely be the smallest “Straussi”café in the whole region serving the verybest “Baselbieter Rahmdääfeli”. How youcould resist…?

If you have come “on foot”, it is nowhigh time to set out fully refreshed on the45 minute walk back to Langenbruck(this time by the Römerweg which startsnear the car park). Excursionists on twoor four wheels can complete their day bygoing up to Ober-Bölchen and enjoyingthe sunset from the very roof of BasellandCanton before setting out on the journeyback home.

Henriette Brunner

short trips into the basel area

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