shed construction process.doc

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3/02/2009

Hi, all

Youve probably noticed that Im way behind schedule re getting you the next draft of theConstruction Manual sorry, I got bogged down in other things . But, rest assured that the2009 Construction Manual is not forgotten, and Im still committed to getting it finished.

Toward that end, attached is a revised version of the manual for building our sheds, which Implanning to include as an appendix to the Construction Manual. Will you please try andreview this and get back to me with your comments by April 1st (no fooling) you can just putmarked up copies in Chuck Sgros mailbox at the center he knows where to find me!

Thanks,

Lynn

p.s. Youll notice changes to the framing of the shed walls:

1. New layout door is framed like our 3068 Interior Door - non-load bearing2. New layout has stud spacing (up to) 2

3. New layout uses studs on flat for front and back walls for trim blocking - I assumed that trim

blocking was the reason for the extra studs and spacers in the Old layout. All 4 corners of New

layout have 5 of wood, which seems plenty for attaching 1x4 trim.4. No changes between Old and New re exterior dimensions

5. No change in sheets of T-1-11 - both Old & New layouts require 7 sheets for walls; 2 front, 2

back, and 1 for each side, and 1 additional sheet for the triangular gable ends.

Counting the 16 - 15 spacers in the Old design as 3 precuts, the difference between the two layouts is 30

Precuts for Old vs 21 Precuts for New - 9 fewer precuts for each shed we build. Every penny counts!

Also - re trusses for the shed. The old shed manual has 98 for the bottom chord penciled in - do you

know who penciled it in and whether we should be using the original 99 or the 98 (or is it 97)? Help! -Im drawing the truss in Sketchup and it doesnt like uncertainties! Also, whats the final word on the bee

keepers those vents that went between the outside face of the shed walls and the fascia board?

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cc:

Tom CoakleySteve Holms

Ron Johnson

Lynn Lewis

Donna ScottChuck Sgro

Susan Turner

Joe Bill Wathen


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Shed Construction

Louisville Habitat for Humanity

Introduction

This guide details the building of a shed for Louisville Habitat for Humanity from start to finish. The goalis to provide easy to understand instructions, photos, and drawings for the construction of our sheds.

The shed is 6 x 8. The walls and trusses can be built in the Construction Center and set up on theconcrete slab on site. The walls are then sheathed with pre-primed grooved plywood siding (generally

referred to as T-1-11). The roof is sheathed with OSB, covered with 30# felt, and then shingled - including

a ridge vent. Finally, the shed is trimmed with 1x4s. The T-1-11 is painted to match the houses sidingcolor, and the trim is painted white.

Shed Construction Overview

1. Assemble walls and trusses

2. Set up walls on concrete pad, check for plumb and square

3. Nail walls together and nail cap plates4. Secure bottom plates to concrete

5. Set trusses in place and nail

6. Nail T-1-11 siding to walls and gable ends7. Attach 2x6 beveled 23 deg fascia to truss ends (gutterboards)

8. Nail 2x6 fascia to front and back walls (rake boards, plumb cut)

9. Nail roof OSB sheathing - leave 1 gap each side at peak, use H clips10. Attach drip edge to lower horizontal roof edges

11. Attach 30# roof felt with cap nails

12. Install drip edge on gable ends, over felt

13. Shingle roof14. Attach roof ridge vent

15. Cap shingles for roof and roof vent

16. Install door and hardware17. Nail 1x4 trim to front and back walls

18. Paint T-1-11 house siding color; prime trim & fascia, then paint with exterior white semigloss

Construct Walls

Shed walls are framed with 2x4s nailed with 16d nails. Use pressure treated 2x4s for the bottom plates.

Refer to Figures 1-3 for the framing of the Front, Back, and (2) Side walls.

a. Square up each wall

b. Be sure and use pressure treated 2x4s for the bottom platesc. Notice that there is unusual spacing for the studs or cripples in some cases - these studs have been

spaced so that the 4x8 T-1-11 sheathing can be applied in full or sheets - no waste!

d. The rough opening for the door, 38, is shown on the Front wall.e. The 2x4s on the flat for the Front and Back walls will be on the outside of the wall, and are

positioned to support the 1x4 trim

f. The (2) side walls are identical.



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Cap Plates

Cap Plates - youll need 2x4 material for cap plates; 2 @ 6 and 2 @ 7 5. If cap plates will be cut on siteyou can also use some shorter lengths (minimum 3), but make sure that you tie front and side walls

together.

Construct Trusses

Refer to Figure 4 & 5 for the framing of the trusses. Remember - all of the trusses must be the same height

and length, so cut and assemble carefully.1. Cut 2x4s slightly longer than required for the middle and (2) side verticals for each truss. For 4

trusses youll need: 8 @ 10 and 4 @ 18

2. Cut the required angle cuts on one end of each piece. Trim the two side verticals to an overalllength of 9 5/8 Leave the center verticals long - these will be trimmed to fit exactly later.

3. Set the chop saw to miter at 23 deg and cut one end of each rafter. Mark the desired length, 53,

from the peak on each rafter.4. The bottom of the rafter which attaches to the horizontal chord is more difficult to cut accurately, so

a jig is provided as a guide for the table saw.

5. Cut the bottom chord for each truss 98 long6. Lay the left and right rafters and the bottom chord flat on the table and align the 23 deg cuts at the

peak. Place the two side vertical braces in place and maintain the 24 1/4 total height from the peakto the bottom of the bottom chord. Trim the middle brace to fit and install.

7. Cut scraps of OSB to use as gussets - these dont have to match the contours exactly, but they canthang over the outside edges and you need to be able to glue and screw through the gussets and into

the truss members.

8. Glue each gusset in place with construction adhesive, and screw securely. Its OK to put gussets ononly one side of each truss, but if desired you can add gussets to the back side of two of the trusses -

the two trusses which will be on the ends of the shed cannot have gussets on the outside - these

would interfere with the siding.

Install Walls

1. Start by measuring the slab, including diagonals. Snap chalk lines for wall layout.2. Position each wall in turn, using a 4 level to make sure that the wall is plumb in both directions

before nailing the walls together at the corners.

3. Make sure that the shed is spaced evenly on the slab, walls are plumb, and the building is square (bychecking diagonal measurements).

4. Nail on the cap plates - 2 16d nails into each stud

5. Secure the bottom plates to the slab with Tapcon (or similar) concrete screws or by using 22caliber powder activated nails.

Install Trusses:

1. The truss tails will extend beyond the side walls 1 on each side. This allows for T-1-11 and

gap for ventilation on each side.2. Truss spacing is app. 23 on center.

3. The front and back trusses are placed directly over the wall studs, with gussets facing inside.

4. Plumb the first truss, brace it, then toenail it in place. Install the next truss in position; brace it to

the 1st truss with temporary 1x3 nailed across the top. Add the next two trusses, plumbing andbracing each.



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Wall Sheathing - T-1-11

1. Refer to Figure 6 for T-1-11 installation2. The shed is sided with 4x8 sheets of T-1-11 grooved plywood. The edges of each sheet of T-1-11

should land on a stud or cripple. For seams which will show, plan your cuts so that youll be

butting with the factory edges. Use 8d galvanized nails to attach the siding.3. The front and back walls will require 2 full sheets each. The two side walls will each require 1 full

sheet and 1 half sheet.

4. The front and back gable ends will require 4 roughly triangular pieces. Cut 4 pieces to fit, but thegrooves must be vertical! A small gap at the outer edges can be covered later by trim.

5. Siding for the front wall can be installed right over the door opening; the door opening can be cut

out later.

6. The 1x4 exterior trim, installed later, will cover seams in the T-1-11.

Gutterboards and Rake Boards

1. Gutterboards: Measure the length, outside to outside, of

the truss tails (hint - should be 6). Cut 2x6s to length

+ 1 (gutterboard, or fascia, will extend beyond trusstails on each end to cover the T-1-11) bevel one long

edge at 23 deg.2. Rake boards - 2x6s should be cut to length, ends plumb

cut, then installed on the front and back gables, meetingat the peak, flush with the top of the trusses, and

attached to the gutterboards at the bottom.

Note: OSB, 30# felt, and drip edge have already been installed

on this shed. Corner and horizontal 1x4 trim can also be seen in

this photo. All thats left is shingles, ridge vent, and capshingles.

Roof SheathingCut a piece of OSB to length. Align the long, horizontal edge with the outer edge of the 2x6 gutter board.

Make sure the rafters are square and plumb and nail the OSB in place - use 8d nails, 4 on perimeter and 8

in field. Cut the next piece of OSB to fit - allow a 1 gap at the peak - the gap will be covered by the ridgevent later. Place H clips on the OSB in each truss bay, and install the cut piece of OSB. Make sure the

rafters are square and plumb and nail the OSB in place.

Drip Edge - lower horizontal eaves

Install drip edge on the lower, horizontal edges of the roof. Cut drip edge to length with tin snips, and nailapp. every foot with roofing nails.

Roof Felt:Use 30# felt and cap nails. Roll out the felt, aligning it with the lower edge of the drip edge. Nail with cap

nails. Roll out the next course; overlap the first course by app. 2 (use the lines on the felt paper as a

guide).

Drip Edge - gable ends

Install drip edge on the gable ends, on top of the felt



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Shingles - youll need app. 2 - 3 bundles of shingles

1. Snap a chalk line 11 up from the lower edge of the drip edge - this will allow the shingles tohang over the drip edge by .

2. The starter course is installed first. Starter course shingles are regular shingles with the tabs cut off

- you use the solid part. Start by cutting the tabs off 3 shingles. The starter course will consist of a6 piece and two full (36) shingles. Make sure the shingle overhang front and rear is equal. Refer

to Figure 7 for the shingle pattern. Nail the 36 width with 3 galvanized roofing nails.

3. The 1st

course shingles are lined up on the chalk line, with tabs down (and overhanging the end ofthe roof by , aligned with the starter course shingle). The first shingle should be full size, and

will be lined up over the partial shingle in the starter course row. Nail with 4 nails - one 1 in from

each end and two spaced out in the middle, nailed in the nail line marked on the shingle. Continue

laying full size shingles until you reach the edge of the roof; cut 6 off the last shingle.4. Refer to Figure 7 for the shingle pattern for each course.

5. There will be cap shingles and ridge vent at the peak, so your actual rows of shingles can stop app.

1-2 from the peak.6. Complete the 2nd side of the roof up to app. 1-2 from the peak.

7. Cap Shingles: The ridge vent will cover the middle 4 of the peak, but youll have to install cap

shingles for app. 14 on both ends. Cut each shingle into its 3 tabs, these will be installed sideways

as cap shingles. The show part of the tab should be left completely intact, but cut the back at aslight angle so it wont show when installed. Gently bend the cap to fit the peak, then line up the

cap with the shingles already installed. Nail with one nail on each side of the peak. Add cap

shingles until the desired opening is covered. The nails on the last cap shingle will show; coverthese nails with roof tar.

8. Ridge Vent: Position the ridge vent and install it with roofing nails. Then, cover the ridge vent

with cap shingles as above.9. Daub any exposed roofing nails with roof tar.

Door Installation

Attach a strip of drip edge to the siding above the door opening and allow 1 overhang on each end.

Remove the weather stripping and the nails securing the door to the frame. Place two strips of luan asspacers on each side of the door opening of the wall. Place the door assembly in the opening and on top of

the luan. Using a level, check for plumb on the hinge side and shim as necessary. When plumb and the

door is fully flush against the siding, secure with 18 gauge nails at the weather stripping location. Ensure

the door is level at the top. Shim the latch side of the door and nail also at the weather stripping location.Remove the door and hinges. Using a countersink, drill for one 3 screw at each hinge location and drive

the screws. Replace hinges and weather stripping and door. Install door hardware.



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Trim

The seams on the front and back walls and at all corners are trimmed with 1x4s. Corner trim is overlappedand runs full length from the bottom of the wall to the horizontal trim.

Paint

The trim & fascia should be primed, then painted with Exterior white semigloss. The T-1-11 is painted to

match the houses siding color.

Ron Rumor has it that all sheds will all be painted white?



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Figure 1 - Front Wall Framing Figure 2 - Back Wall Framing

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Figure 3 - Side Walls Framing




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Figure 4 - Truss Framing

Figure 5 - Gussets for Trusses




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Figure 6 - T-1-11 Siding T-1-11:

Front 2 full sheets

Back 2 full sheetsSides 1 sheets each

Gable Ends

4 roughly triangular

pieces; cut to fit.T-1-11 must be installed

vertically; small gaps at

outside of trusses will becovered with trim.



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Figure 7 - Shed Shingles




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Materials List for Shed

Walls

2x4 Pressure Treated 2 96

2x4 Pressure Treated 2 65

2x4 - 8 Long 2 96

2x4 Precuts 22 (includes 1 for door parts)16d nails

Trusses (Total for Four Trusses)

2x4 x 10 4 98

2x4 Precuts 8 (for rafters & supports)

Scraps of OSB For gussets

16d nails

8d nails

Construction Adhesive

Drywall Screws App. 200

Other Materials

4x8 Sheets T-1-11 Siding 8 2 front, 2 back, 1 ea side, 1 for gable ends

4x8 Sheets OSB 2 For roof

30# Roof Felt App. 25

Shingles 3 bundles

Drip Edge App. 5 pieces

2x6 Precuts 6 For Gutterboards and Rake Boards (fascia)

Ridge Vent 1 section

1x4 x 96 for Trim 10

16d nails

8d nails8d Galvanized nails for T-1-11

Screws or Nails for anchoring walls to concrete floor (plus tools for installing)

1 Roofing Nails

Short Cap Nails

3 Exterior screws

Door and Door Hardware

Drip Edge for Door (can use a piece of roof drip edge if necessary)

H clips (need app. 10)

Cedar shims

Roof Tar

Tools

4 Level

Hammer Drill

Clamps

Caulk gun



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