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SEWING THREADS

IN

APPAREL INDUSTRY

Presented by : Sandip Mukherjee

1)History of sewing thread

2) Characteristics of sewing thread

3) Types of sewing thread

4) Types of core-spun thread

5) Embroidery thread6) Filament thread7) Sewing problem

CONTENTS

•Sewing thread is first textile material

•25000 years ago sewing threads were made by rubbing and twisting the long fur fibers pulled from animal skin.

•After that linen fibre was used as sewing thread.

•Soon silk thread also found their way into sewing operation.

•After this cotton thread also become very popular in almost every field.

•NOW THIS IS THE ERA OF PET/COTTON SEWING THREAD.

HISTORY OF SEWING THREAD

Sewability of sewing thread i.e. ability of thread to produce a seam with min. no. of breakages & least damage to fabric during sewing.

Thread performance in seam is the ability of thread to produce desired functional serviceability in a desired seam.

Tensile strength of seam SEI = ------------------------------------------ x 100 Fabric tensile strength

BASIC REQUIREMENT OF SEWING THREAD

Characteristics of Sewing Characteristics of Sewing ThreadThread

Tensile strengthTensile strength Initial modulusInitial modulus

Abrasion resistanceAbrasion resistance Frictional propertiesFrictional properties

Resistance to high tempResistance to high temp Evenness with negligible faults Evenness with negligible faults

ElongationElongation ShrinkageShrinkage

Balanced structureBalanced structure

Types of sewing threadTypes of sewing thread

Spun threadSpun thread Core spun threadCore spun thread Continuous filament threadContinuous filament thread Embroidery threadEmbroidery thread Technical threadTechnical thread

Types of spun thread Types of spun thread

Cotton thread Cotton thread Linen threadLinen thread Silk threadSilk thread Spun synthetic threadSpun synthetic thread Spun blended sewing thread Spun blended sewing thread

Types of Core- spun Types of Core- spun ThreadsThreads

Polyester/cotton core spun ThreadPolyester/cotton core spun Thread Polyester/polyester core spun ThreadPolyester/polyester core spun Thread

Polyester/cotton core Polyester/cotton core spun Threadspun Thread

Single core spun is produced by spinning a Single core spun is produced by spinning a sheath of cotton around a core of high sheath of cotton around a core of high tenacity continuous polyester filaments.tenacity continuous polyester filaments.

Why PET/Cotton core Why PET/Cotton core spun thread ???spun thread ???

Combines good sewability characteristic of cotton fibre & higher strength of Combines good sewability characteristic of cotton fibre & higher strength of continuous PET.continuous PET.

Superior strength to thread size ratio.Superior strength to thread size ratio.

Finer thread gives fine seam appearance with excellent threadFiner thread gives fine seam appearance with excellent thread

Cotton sheath makes thread resistant to heat even at higher temp.Cotton sheath makes thread resistant to heat even at higher temp.

Being cotton wrapped PET/Cotton core spun thread facilitates excellent Being cotton wrapped PET/Cotton core spun thread facilitates excellent needle heat resistance during high-speed sewing.needle heat resistance during high-speed sewing.

Excellent stretch Excellent stretch

Controlled elongation due to cotton sheath facilitates superior performance of Controlled elongation due to cotton sheath facilitates superior performance of thread during high-speed sewing operations resulting in minimum chances of thread during high-speed sewing operations resulting in minimum chances of seam slippage and skipped stitches.seam slippage and skipped stitches.

Major characteristics of Major characteristics of core spun threads core spun threads

Ticket No. Ticket No. Avg. Strength Avg. Strength (grams)(grams)

Elongation (%)Elongation (%)

3636 45004500 16-2116-21

5050 29002900 16-2116-21

7575 19001900 14-2014-20

CONTINUOUS FILAMENTS CONTINUOUS FILAMENTS THREAD THREAD

Manufacturing methods of continuous Manufacturing methods of continuous filaments yarnsfilaments yarns

Wet spinningWet spinning

Dry spinningDry spinning

Melt spinningMelt spinning

Types of filament threadsTypes of filament threads

Monofilaments threadsMonofilaments threads

Multi-filament threads Multi-filament threads

Textured threads Textured threads

ADVANTAGES of CONTINUOUS ADVANTAGES of CONTINUOUS MONOFILAMENTS THREADSMONOFILAMENTS THREADS

Being transparent seam is invisible.Being transparent seam is invisible.

Reduce downtime of rethreadingReduce downtime of rethreading

Cost effectiveCost effective

No need to maintain huge stock of threadNo need to maintain huge stock of thread

EMBROIDERY THREAD EMBROIDERY THREAD

USE OF EMBROIDERY THREAD :-USE OF EMBROIDERY THREAD :- sarees & other ladies & gents dresssarees & other ladies & gents dress Woven garmentsWoven garments Knitted garmentsKnitted garments Leather goodsLeather goods LogoLogo

EMBROIDERY THREAD IS EMBROIDERY THREAD IS AVAILABLE FORAVAILABLE FOR

Hand embroideryHand embroidery

Single head machineSingle head machine

Multi head computerized Multi head computerized embroidery machineembroidery machine

High speed multineedle High speed multineedle computerized embroidery machinecomputerized embroidery machine

TYPES OF EMBROIDERY TYPES OF EMBROIDERY THREAD THREAD

Cotton embroidery threadCotton embroidery thread

Continuous filament threadContinuous filament thread

Spun synthetic threadSpun synthetic thread

Rayon embroidery threadRayon embroidery thread

Metallic embroidery threadMetallic embroidery thread

SEWING PROBLEMS SEWING PROBLEMS

SOME OF THE COMMON SEWING SOME OF THE COMMON SEWING PROBLEMS ARE:- PROBLEMS ARE:-

Needle thread breakageNeedle thread breakageCAUSE CAUSE

Excessive tension in needle threadExcessive tension in needle threadREMEDYREMEDY

Use stronger thread or proper tensionUse stronger thread or proper tension

Unbalanced stitchingUnbalanced stitching

CAUSECAUSE

Differential fabric feed Differential fabric feed

REMEDYREMEDY

Improve fabric feed mechanismImprove fabric feed mechanism

Staggered stitchingStaggered stitching

CAUSECAUSE

Vibration in needle Vibration in needle

REMEDYREMEDY

Change appropriate needleChange appropriate needle

Skipped stitches Skipped stitches

CAUSE

Failure of needle to enter in loopFailure of needle to enter in loop

REMEDY

Check needle alignment & timings

Bobbin thread breakageBobbin thread breakage

CAUSE

Sharp edges of bobbin case

REMEDY

Polish edges smoothly

SEWING DAMAGESEWING DAMAGE

Sewing damage refers to damage to Sewing damage refers to damage to fabric caused by the sewing needles of fabric caused by the sewing needles of high-speed industrial machines.high-speed industrial machines.

Comparison of Sewing Threads type

Spun :• Lower strength than filament• Most Versatile – adaptable to a wide variety of machine adjustment condition• Less likely than filament thread to cause seam pucker• Least costly

Filament :• Higher strength than spun; permits use of finer thread without sacrifice of seam strength• Produces neatest seams, but careful machine adjustments necessary• Greater possibility of seam pucker than with spun thread• Less costly than core spun, but more costly than spun thread; textured filament threads would be good for knits because they have additional stretchability.

Core Spun :

• Combines the best features of filament & spun threads• Especially useful in seaming durable press garment. ( Residual resins present in permanent press garments are absorbed by the thread, causing strength loss and abrasion-resistance loss in the cotton cover of the thread. The polyester core is unaffected by the resin, thus providing continuing seam integrity.)• Same seam puckering tendency as spun thread• Most costly.

Thread Finishes and their uses

Type – Soft

Description – Natural cotton thread without finishes that appear somewhat fuzzy. Small amount of lubricant sometimes added to improve sewability.

Sewing Properties & uses – Excellent sewability, lowest cost

Type – Mercerized

Description – Treated cotton thread that is stronger, more lustrous, more stable (less stretch) than soft cotton thread. The finish reduces the thread loop strength.

Sewing Properties & uses – Increased tensile strength, lustrous appearance and brighter shades provide for better seams than soft threads & costly.

Type – Glace

Description – Highly polished cotton thread that is difficult to unravel. The polish and finish are usually obtained with waxes and starches.

Sewing Properties & uses – Strongest cotton thread. Rarely used in apparel. Used in the manufacture of shoes, luggage, canvas goods, and similar applications.

Type – Bonded

Description – Threads of manufactured fibres, both filament & spun. Waxes & resins produce high polish, eliminate fuzz, bond together filament & plied yarn, & impart smooth protective coating.

Sewing Properties & uses – Increased strength & sewability compared to same thread unbonded. Apparel usage largely in heavyweight and coated fabric sewing. Mainly used for manufacture of shoes, luggage, tents, and other heavy duty appliance.

THANKS