sewbeautiful octnov13

Contents

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SewBeautifulmag.com

GontentsVolume 27, Number 5 . lssue ]50 о October/November 20]i

Сочеr3О Lacy Sailor Dress

Gail DоапеThis issue's free pattern, features an heirloom twist опthe classic sailor collar, Find it on the pullout centerfold iп

sizes 4 through В.

Features12 Martha Pullen Sewing Awards Winners

18 Sеш Classic Clothesfor Girls: А New Book ЬуLindsay Wilkes

2О Sewing rMith Sweatshirts and Lace: Creatingа Lace CollageLопdа Rohlfing

4О Autumn Style52

55

58

Lace Очеrlау SkirtАmеliа Jоhапsоп

Elegant Leaf ТаЬlе RunnerPatty Dчпп

Нарру Scarecrows: Jack and Jil] StrawSmocking PlatesGwеп Мilпеr

46 Holiday Enchantment64

67

7о

Grееп & Gold Silk Elegance SmockingDesignCheryl Davidson

Mastering Wendy's Madeira HemWепdу Sсhоел

Ame]ia Rose Dressкаri Месса

Appliquёd Heirloom Christmas Treeтгishа smith

Ьsщ_&-,

74

insplration award winners

pRE,SE].{TIl{G:

;i:.iм

W'INNERS оF тнЕ 2012

&!] 'ýkir

kl;;l

}лIАRlгFilл PtJLLEN

8щТ Т r-, -Ll,c lllc:tsctl ttl shагс lvitll 1,911 thc 2()12 N,Iагthlr l)tlllcrl Serr.it,tg Аrчагсis ш,iппегs. \Wt,гсt-сivесl trl<lгс

VV с th.llT I5() сlrtгiсs, arlcl а pancl сlГ jr_rclgcs ti<lr"rl N'Ilrrthlr l'tlllcI-t C<lrllpltrTl,arrcl Sczi'tit'cttttilitltnagazit'leir-rciivicllrlrI11. llsscssccl eltclt <lt-lc, ý(itlпсгs rчсге c:hclset-t itl scvcn сliГtсгсrlt catcg()гies: Scll,it-tg ttlг Acllrlts.

псlъ,. ct-tjtly thc itttltgcs сlГ сlr.tг r,чittпсгs' fiпс r,r,<lгli.

1зSewBeautifulmag.com

14 Srtu ijгirtllri iti octoberrNoveпrlrer 201З

Kalerl's cltt sietl l.c] t]оV\/ll, s 1l arri1ilotltle1 \lVi.lc] i](lili]|l](1 til_),,i]

"l,""Jait[la's Chi sleг llg Golvll E:r-sr.lrllil]c" Irotll Гч4;liLll;l Г]Ll er-,

Cotllllat,ly аllс] ,,.vеtе пl;ldе fоl 1lr.;r qlirrlric]аilc,1llit:l !irl1lll il'|; l)i]l)i l]l].

ller dress llas r-. cllll il;ilric 1lat-le:; lli S,i.,iill:; l)i]ii]t{,r lril(] ei(Jl]I

a]се Slli]|jc](] i)ari O:j Si]cj ]-r;lllc] r.li,ll,.,:l islllri tlltl [,|]ilii]l l]r]I i, !^"1 i]

:jila(]OyJ Strtal llq, sil[, riIlllorl t l,]iji.) l]c]l V .]il(] :.j()()(] ilt,,lt lS, ilrl(1tO OtIle1 |]alra]S аa]Oе(] 1,tual tOt,r,,ll llI ijtlLril l.] ili]l](j](] J] lllLl(][il](]iл;llil rllacllttia_, itl.1tllelst ttllli;rr; i]l,]:l!,()t]ll l; rltLlt;il.:; ()ir :.t-.vllrl llillle i]allc S :]l]e .,l Srl sllaDc:r] llll{,,a] i](_,,] .)v;]:]\,,\:'iil ,: v :;il;ltlг.,t]

i]lrll]Lj] Sl]llle!]t ()i llli|c]le[] ar;t: !jill: ll;l lil cllllltrlil]cltei] lltl lllllllltl1,,i ill з i.. t llllorl

IJ],1LNг)л I ()li]) :,()t],i 1i дl]iгi(; I,()N i1)\\INSll1l,,Г'],_l,] N]ij'r'i,Vl\ N L\

Вrепdа's daughter-in law saw а dгеss like thls опliпеand asked if she could make something sir-пilаr, Thinkingthгor_rgh all she had lеаrпеd at Martha Pr_r lerl schools,she found she did indeed have the skills to design, puff,

еmьrоidеr апd constгr,tct this little dress. Each cast оп

flоwеr has а tiпу bead in the сепtег for а hirlt of sparkle,

rnspiratron award Winners

|,iN] )'r Г,,\L,]i,lLIi (,()i,iJMii]Iд, I I]NNLSSl]t

Cindy used the "Pasca е" pattern, size 7, boat neck,capped sleeves, and f ull bodice чеrsiоп to make thiS

heirloorT dress fоr hеr daughter. She stitched alterrlatillqwidths о{ lace itlsertion side Ьу side directly to the bluecotton оrgапzа fаЬrlс of the bodice and sleeves. Sheadded а collar with gathered lace edging, and f inishedthe sleeves with gathered асе edging. She used Swissinsertion, wovell with lэluе riььоп, to attach the bodiceto the Skirt, At the bottom of the Sl<irt she 9athered twostrips of асе llsertioll 'l И inches арагt and finished theedge with insertion and mоrе gatheгed lace edging, Sheused а white si k satiп riьlэоп to make а folded rоsеЬrоосh, add пg interest to the f rопt of the dress. (The

dress is f Lllly lilled with blue cotton оrgапzа fа[эriс,)

SewBear:tifulmag,con. 15

CATEGORY: SEWING FОR CHILDREN (2Т ТО 6)

ELlZABETH PEREZ - SORRENTO, FLORIDA

Elizabeth's used Vogue #795В, size З, for the bodice апdskirt and "pascale" from the sew Веачtifчl collectionfоr the sleeves and соllаr of her christmas drеss, Fоrfabric, she chose rеd and gingham silk dupioni, and sheembroidered the drеss with silk riььоп flowers and leaveswith stems and Frепсh knots in DMc f loss, she addedseven 5/8-inch-wide tucks to the bodice before workingthe embroidery on top of them in а V shape. She added а

Iace-trimmed batiste slip to the bodice lining and finishedthe back with а red gingham sash and fоur self-coveredbUttonS.

CATEGORY: SEWING FOR ADULTS (18 AND UP)

DONNA SAPP EORT WORTH, TEXAS

Donna's evening ensemble is blackand сrёmе silk charmeuse and velvetShe trimmed the bias-cut gownand swing coat with hand-renderedIatticework, а beautiful versionof North Аmеriсап smocking, lпlatticework, all stitching is executedon the wrong side of the раttеrпpiece, which produces surfaceinterest of deep folds and creases

оп the face of the fabric. Неr addition of oversized pipingdelineates the latticework from the body of each gаrmепt.The ensemble is ап оrigiпаl design, and the pattern wasdeveloped through the flat pattern method. Each garmentis underlined with silk оrgапzа and liпеd iп China silk,

16 Ser.u Beautifиl October/NovembeT 201З

inspiration award winners

CATEGORY: SЕ\Л/ BEAUTIFUL/MARTHA PULLEN

SARAH OLIVIA MILLS - GENTRY, ARKANSAS

Sarah's blouse is from the "Viпеуаrd Blouse" pattern

designed Ьу Laura Jenkins Thompson for Sew Beautifulmagazine lssue #107. She made it fоr herself fоr the 4-НFashion Revue, trimming the design with rows of laceinsertion and finishing the sIeeves, neckline and hem withlасе edging.

CATEGORY QUILTING

DEBBIE WEINMAN - BRIGHTON, ILLINOIS

Debbie's quilt contains 32 blocks of hand embroideredbaskets of flowers set оп point all done with а thin lауеrof batting duriпg the hand embroidery wоrk. She workedembroidery with реаrl cotton, and hеr neighbor, Кау

Sutton, completed the project with machine quilting. Thequilt wоп first place in the lllinois State Fаir Bed Ouiltscategory.

t7

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WServBeautifulmag.com

оur piСks

ОUr PiCkS for Beautiful Seasonal Sewing

fr' -#*-==---Э,-\*-ъсь

1. Beleweled VelvetрiпсчshiопsSewing is truly а luxury

when you use опе of thesehandmade velvet pincushions,

fiIled with 100 реrсепt еmеrуgrаiп to sharpen pins and

needles.паkрчпаr.еtsу.соm

2. Nana's Heirloom SoakRemove stains, spots, mildew

and yel|owing from cotton

and liпеп with this bleach-free

solution, safe fоr use оп ail

colors of уочr most delicate

f abrics.ьчttопsпьоws, net

фцы

З. AmplifyП RazorEdgemFabric shearsNeW technology епSчrеS

these рrеmium-grаdе, ultra-

shаrр AmplifyTM shears glide

seamlessly and cut withprecision through еvеп the

thickest fabrics.fiskars,com

4. Heirloom Woven LabelsAdd а professional woven label

to уоur creations, availab|e fоr

customization iп multiple widths;

choose from cotton оr polyester.

hеirlооmlаьеls.соm

SewBeautifulmag.com 2l

mеrrу'Дссidепt"Ву Martha Broyles

sometimesап "oops" can lead to аwonderful design choice. Howoften hаче you been in themidst of gаrmепt constructiononly to reaLize no matterhow carefully you ргераrеd,measured, cut and stitched, а

huge "OOPS" happened? Thesethings печеf happen whenyou have plenty of time, yardsof fаыiс left очеr оr before

you have attached, trimmedand graded the соllаr seam.Murphy's Law will always strikewhen it's midnight the nightЬеfоге роrtrаits оr а visit toSanta. Тhеrе will опIу Ье sсrарsof fabric left and rest assured,the mоrе expensive the fabric,the smаllеr the scraps. And ofcourse, уоur соllаr will hачеbeen applied and the seamclipped and trimmеd to а scant% inch.

Don't fеаr, this can lead towhat is known as а "НарруAccident." Urban Dictionarydefines this as: "ýИhеп

something ttnexpectedlygood comes frotn what wouldotheгwise Ье considered аmishap."

ýИhеп you аrе smocking аyoke garment, common practiceis to lengthen the back yokesso that the back yoke-to-skirtseam is at the same 1ечеl as thebottom edge of the smockingwhen the two meet at theside seams. The most саrеfulof calculations can go аwrу.ýИhilе constfucting this infantboy's bubble in рrераrаtiоп forthe little guy's first visit witlrSanta, I mеаsurеd, measuredand mеаsurеd. In spite of mуdiligence, I found my backyoke ended ар И- to 74 inchtoo short! ýfhat to do? I walkedaway in disgust and ponderedmу next steps. I was pressedfоr time so the only choice I

had, short of taking араrt thegаrmепt, was to find somev/ay to lengthen that backyoke. I decided to sleep on it;

the wisest choice. The nextmorning an epiphany оссurrеd.I cotrld use piping to disguisemy mistake. I piped both thetop and bottom of the rераir,making it look intentional, andthen I spaced the lowest buttonbetween the piping giving my"rераir" the look of а belted sashin the back.

22 Sеш Benиtiful October/November 201З

Ц/hаt you'll пееd...

Pattern'ВаЬу Bubbles" Ьу Chery Williams

Smocking Plate'Candy-liscious" Ьу Ellen МсСаrп

Fabric(Аmочпt ассоrdiпg to раttеrп size)swrss flannel

NotionsВаЬу piping

Ноtл to repair it...NOTE: Iпstпtclicltls Ьеrе clre

J сl r l е пg t h е rt i. пg"/а l t е ri пg а .у- о kе ;sпtrлсkiпg ilБtпlctiolls апсl.flоssccllclr lisr ссltпе tl,i.th tbe plcrte апсlсопs! п lcti()l l sleps.l'or сrеаtiпg thebttbble are iпcltt,clecl iп. lbe pattertt,

,,.,.J.};}*}":*,}"lqi;:"";Ч j**1"l'-!{F;}ýМЪ-- м

,.а;."тiriл*t$:q};l*"!э}л?!.чЛЬ};}i$},еt,}а'ёа:.:Q}iз*t;\r,:еффýН"Ll{S-

1. Dеtегrпiпе cleptl-r yotl ъ,апtгераiг t<> 1lе, tirгthсr shc>гtening

уоr_rг llack ycike iГ пссеs|iагу t()

ltc,(,tlI]lnlotl;tt(, уоtlг serr rl-in"belt." Ве sllге to irlclr-rdc а seltlllаllоп.апсе <;n tlrc yoke, arrd orrllotl-r sides оГ уоlrг гераir/Ьеlt piecetO ;lccolnlnoclate piping searrr

allowance. Cut гераir/llеlt piecestwice the 1engtl"r of finislrecl backyoke pieces.

2, Attzrclr piping ttl llottott,t оГ оLttег

back yokes, r-rlaking sllre to onlypipe to yoke t'olclline; tttck encl оГ

piping clown ancl t'olcl otl-reг hаlГinsicle lining (frg. 1). Опе sicle at аtiltre. seъ ге1llriг/llеlt piet,c ltt,гt_lss

Llack yokes attaclring to piping(place repai/Llelt. tcl piping, гiglrt

siclc togetl-ier zrtrcl rаw cclges cvcn.)\Х/огkiпg fiorl-r yoke sicle, stitclralong line tlrat attacl-recl piping.lirгп to fight sicle (fig. 2), I'геssbelt away f}orn yoke.

3. Fоr clotllllc iпsuгапсе, tolcl

уоtlг gагlпепt as it will lle wогп,llrakiгrg sr_tге fl,clnt ancl llack yokesаге going to tlr?rtch Ьеf'оге goingfirгtl-rег (fig. 3).

4. Attacl"r piping to llottom eclgeоГ гepair/lэelt, again stopping at

Гoldline.

5. дttасh lэirck skirt/lоwег llackго1llреl,tо llack yclke рег gal-nlc,ntinstгLlctions. Ф

Sewpiping

Fold piping downat foldline

F|GURЕ 1

beltWS

SeW rераir/Ьеlt along sewnpiping line, BS together

FlGURE 2

rера irlbelt

Fold piping downat foldline

FlGURE з

SewBeautifuImag,com

BackyokeRS

Sew pipingto yoke

BackyokeRS

Ф.=roоц

Backyokelining

ffiRераir belt RS

2з

,\'еwiпg ll,ith

SýиtrдтSнIRтS фВу Londa Rohlfing

Creatil,tg а tr-аtе Со//аде

Whqt you'll пееd...FаЬriс2XL рurсhаsеd SWeatShirt оr

sweatshirt knit fabric for сhоsепpattern

various сrеаm-соlоrеd fаьriсrеmпапts, such as silk, silkorganza silk taffeta and liпеп

TrimFоr the gаrmепt shоwп:

веfеr to the book sweatshirtТrапsfоrmаtiопs Ьу Londa Rohlfing

Fог the techniques shоwп--

Lace scraps and old lace-trimmed linens*

Straight Fusible Stay Таре

Yаrп fоr couchingDecorative machine thread

NotionsChibi needle from Clover (fоr

couching)

Monofilament thread

* Londa used а good роrttоп of the|асе Ьоrdеr frоm atl апliqче есrчliпеп tablecloth, апd added otherlaces frоm hеr stash.

@ Tnis pro.|ect was stitched on а Pfaff 7550sewing machine.

tips & tricks embellishment

E u e n il],:,ll] l :,:;i l,, ::, Ti]] ]iil,;, ] li:"}:]i T,:." l], ;1:,1i,l;,]i,:,..cclrlltilгtltlllc |init u,ith rlllticlrit-tg l,illIlirrg, ý/itll this clesi.gn, "It-tt-lt.lvlt1 ir,,c"'

ljrlllr rrlr,. lltltlI< ,!zt,l,rtl.s1,1it,t '!iztttsfi:,l,tltrtlitllts, y()Ll c:tll tlse lt cclilcc'titltl tlГ

tlcц., lttlcl ltrllic;ttc llrc,cs tilг tltc stitc:li 'rl' {'li1l llarlcls. I sllltгс tllat tccllrli,ltrcliегс-. Sclcct \,()Llг ()\\,ll l)llttcгIl lrr-rcl trtilizc tllcsc, tct,ltI-ri(l1_1eS llS iI-1s1'liгltti<l1-1

filг r,tlr_tг tlrvtl rr,сlrlсlсгГtrl:lllсl c,tllltt'v ltllit jec,kct. tlг ltl<l[i lilг thc ctlIrl1llctccIiгc-ctitlt-ls ltllc| l)1tttсг1l lilг thc ti,lrtLrгссl.чltг1'llсllt ill пlv lltl<lk (ltvltilltlllc lts

s<lft сtll,сг ($_Z7.95) tlг c|lcl<lI< (fil+.99) Гг<lrll C&'l't)trlllishirlg).

Stitch 'п' FlipТесhпiquеLtlncla ltscs this teclrlliclttc ttlсгсаtе hсг lace llllr-rcls atlcl 1lit,ccclllasc llrllгiсs (clirrlensitlrr.s гсfьг ttlsltltlplc gагlrlспt l)Llt lrllt}- \,хгч

ltcctlгclirlg t() l)гоiесt).

1, At lс,lt cr-ic| оl lr IigIrtrvcight lllrsc

[)iecc. stit(,h lr tlrl>гiс 1liccc гightsic|c Lrp, stitchillg ll scltt)t 7, irlchirl ancl ltl<lng llcltll ((l-irlcll) sicles.

2. l)irl ncxt sclccrccl tlrllгiс (llrcc,)

гight siclc cltlr,l,t-t сlп t()p ()t' tlfýt

1liccle. llligr-ring ((l-ir-itIl) cclgcs clt-l

гi.qht. Stitch а И-irrсh searlr. Fli1->

tIlis 1,1iece ir-r place, гiglit sicle r_r1l.

ltnc| ргеss selltt,t,

3. Itc,pcat Stells 1 arlcl 2,

ltltcгrrlttirlg stгi1l u,icitIis arrcl

сс>ltlгs (tyllcs tll' llrccs) Lrntil eachliglitrveigirt llase tlrllгiс is сtlr,сгссl.

UTILIZING WIDE LACESAs yolt r_ltilize laccs оГ all tl,pcs, citlrr't lle аГгаiсl tcl ctlt int() а п,iсlс

lace tcl сгеzltе 1lеъ, 1эicc:es tilг trsc iп thе lacc cltliltccl ог stitch'n'flipllarrds tilzrt y()tl сгсlttе ttlг thc соllаг, гigl"rt flтlr-rt |lancl, ar-rcl с,ttl'l.ч.

LaceСоllаgе

TIPS

lп the book, l instruct rеаdеrs to cutthe base and pieces 7z inch widerthan what is desired. Then, trim itdown straightening both edges. lп thesample garment, this process is donefor the соllаr (З3 inches long), thefront band (you must determine howlong the frопt of your jacket will Ье),and each cuff.

cut various silk fabrics, tableclothfabric, апd laces (of а wide variety ofcream соlоrs) into different widths.Once stitched and flipped, you cancertainly decide to make а sectionпаrrоwеr - which is what l did manytimes.

Don't Ье afraid to stitch downthe scallops of lace edging. Usemonofilament thread in the needle sothe stitching is invisible,

As you design, Ье surе that noone |асе оr fabric is so wide as todominate. Rather, go for а "mёlапgе"of different colors, textures andwidths of pieces. On the left-mostlace, you сап See that l Stitched it опtop, rаthеr than seaming it iп withthe stitch 'п' flip method. You аrе thedesigner - so let the laces "talk" toyou and enjoy the creative prooessI

Fоr mоrе delicate lace, you mightwant to do as l have done: "protect"'it Ьу covering with а piece of off-white silk оrgапzа.

Decorative stitching can Ье utilizedоп sections whеrе the fаьriс tends to"bubble" to eliminate that tепdепсу,and to furthеr "attach" everything -

but decorativelyI

Pressing each piece into place afterstitching and flipping is а good stepto always include, but also once thepiecing is done, Ье surе to give it аgood steam press.

After pressing, trim up each longedge so that your pieces аrе therequired width. These wеrе not quite5% inches wide (consult the book formоrе details of exact sizes.)

26 Ser.u Веаиtiful OctoberNorlember 2013

Му favorite method of making а "sweatshirt jacket" notарреаr as а frumpy, sloppy jacket is to utilize а 2XL and toenvision the sweatshirt as just fabric. This is the Method2 of Fit in my book, Sweatshirt Тrапsfогmаtiопs. Whenfolding the front of the sweatshirt in half on straight grain,

уоu can expect what you see iп this photograph - the cutedges of the sweatshirt wiIl not matchI Surprise.,.they аrе

not cut on perfect grain, but when you use them as fabric,you improve not only the fit, but the hang because it isпоw оп grаiп. Utilize уоur own jacket pattern pieces, оr

the pieces included in the back pocket of the book.

tips & tricks embellishment

l always stay knit (sweatshirt) edges before addinganything to them to рrеvепt what l call "rоllеr coaster"wavy edges. l use а strip of straight grain fusibleinterfacing known as Straight Fusible Stay Таре on theinside of the jacket lоwеr edge and on the right side ofthe sleeve edge; the turned-up cuff conceals the staytape on the sleeve.

When working with lace and antiquelinens, you will Ье presented withmапу options, l considered usingthe pointed lace Ьоrdеr fromthe tablecloth as shown in thisphotograph-but then, l could dolots of things. Good design mostoften means not doing everythingthat springs to mind, l like this jacketbecause it has а tailored feel eventhough it utilizes feminine laces. ln

оthеr words: l didn't оо очеrьоаrd. lfin doubt...leave it outi@

Оп the outside of the jacket, l like tocouch уаrп along the joining of thebands to the jacket to give а nice,finished edge. Use monofilament in

the needle and thread that matchesthe lоwеr lауеr underneath iп theЬоЬЬiп. Ad,|ust your machine to аzigzag stitch just wide enough togo оvеr the уаrп, and а length ofЗ. Lower the uрреr tension on themachine so that you do not see thelоwеr bobbin thread on each side ofthe zigzag.

Whenever уаrп is couched, to end itneatly and securely, thread the уаrп(s)on а large dаrпiпg needle (love theChibi needles frоm Сlочеr!) and burythe threads between the lауеrs of thegаrmепt and embellished bands. Pullthis needle through and cut the уаrпsclose to the fabric. The cut edgesthen will "sneak" back in betweenthe lауеrs, печеr to Ье seen again.l believe you will find this methodbetter than tying а knot and addingsome glue.

SewBeautifulmag.com 27

inspiration martha's attic

*WЙ,U,{оTake а closer lrrok at sоmе of оur favorite pieces

frоm Martha Pullen's 3О-уеаr accession of antique collectitrles.

dr', alwavs so trruch гLlп to uпеагth trеаsllгеs

а / in МагtЁа's collection оf antique clotlring.Wlrat we love about his piece is that the botton'flоuпсе on the skirt is 2r sераrаtе piece that s/as cllton the bias to give it а rtrffle-look flor.lnce. ýИhаt's

Гtirthеr intriguing is tl-rat this bottom bias pieceWaS SeWn to the skirt in а scalloped searn, wlrichwas topped witl-r 1асе to conceal the seamline. Тhеscalloped line echoes the detail асrоss the top оГ thedrеss, which cгeates zr Гаuх yoke line. Tl-re sl-raped

band of fhЬгiс was applied on top оf tl-re plain dгеss

fiont anc1 tгiпrпrесl on botl-r edges witl-r gatlreгed lace.

Напсl-еrrrЬгоiсlегеd poises wеrе worked асrсlss theb:rnd, thrее of tlreпr stitclred агоuпd гhinestone stucl

сепtегs. А touch of glitz like this on а white vintagepiece is unusttal, Ыrt since this drеss was sized fоr а

teen ог yollng ;rdult, реrhарs tl-re гhinestones wеrеat the wеаrеr'S reqllest, Tlre рrеttу neckline wasfinished with а bias band topped with Fгепсh knotsand eclgeci witlr gathered 1асе. The shогt, рuffЪdsleeves l-iave а gathered lace edge finislr. \iИhаt аpretty first colrrmunion dress this wotrld make. @


^ ' , сhildrепJJresSlnain sailor-inspired clothing is Ъ/сепturiеs-оldtradition. 'ý7оrп еаrlу-оп mostlyГоr seaside outings Ьу adults andchildren alike, the distinctive lineslooked so adorable on little ones,sаilог suit and dresses becameа wardrobe staple. Gail Doaneshares with us hеr tv/iýt оп thisstyle complete with ап heirloomsailor соllаr. The entire соllаrand front inset аrе made of stripsof lace sеIл/п onto а |ayer of silkofganza, This technique works sonicely and provides the perfectamount of stability fоr this dress.

\Mhat уоu'Il пееd...Pattern

"Lacy Sailor Dress" оп pulloutcenterfold (sizes 4 to 8)

ГаЬriс(Dress yаrdаgе rеqчiгеmепts опlayout guide)

45-inch-wide rеd silk dupioni

1Зlа yards of 54-inch-wide есru silkоrgапZа

Trim(Laces frоm Маrthа Рчllеп Соmрапy)

4Yzyards of 1-inch-wide Frепсhinsertion (L-l76lЗЗ5Е) Lace #]

2TByards of 5/8-inch-wide Frепсhinsertion (L-l761965E) Lace #2

2% yards of /z-inch-wide Frепсhinsertion (L-2l771El Lace #З

1зlа yards of 5/8-inch-wide Frепсhedging (L-2l772El

'1% yards of З/8-iпсh-widе Frепсhedging (L-2l77OEl

1% уаrds есru епtrеdеuх(S-8001 29lЕ)

6- х ЗO-iпсh-widе lightweight fusibleinterfacing

18 inches of %-inch-wide silk satinriЬЬоп in natural (N-RlB5/8/natural)

Six mоthегоf-реаr| buttons, size 18'l -inch mоthеr-оf-реаrl button with

large holes оr small buckle'1 yard of %-inch-wide Seams Great

ThreadDMC 50wt есru sewing thread

Notions7z-inch diameter Fast Тurп

Wash-away mаrkiпg pen

stitch 'n Теаr

Тrасiпg рареr

@This project Was Stitched оп а PfaffCreative Реrfоrmапсе sewing mасhiпе.

Ноrл to рrераrе it...cUTTING1. Тrасе а11 pattern pieces ontotfacing рареr.

2. Cut out all раttегп piecesaccording to cutting and layoutguide on centerfold.

3. Тrапsfеr all markings.

4. The finished center back lengthof the project is as follows:

Sizе4-28ИiпсhеsS|ze 5 - 30% inches

Size6-32|/zinches

5пе /- J472 lncnes

Size8-36%inches

Ноtл to construct it...LACE GOLLAR1. Using а rеgulаr tip wash-awaymarking pen, trасе outside edges

frее pattern lacy sailor dress

DRESSВу Gail Doane

of соllаr on 16-inch (l) х 20-inch(w) silk otganza rectangle. Flippattern очеr to trace opposite sideof соllаr, Ве саrеful that grainlineon соllаr pattern aligns tolengthwise gгаiп of silk оrgапzа.Mark placement of first piece of1асе on both соllаr sections onsilk organza. (Only one соllаrshown in figures.) Second соllаrwill Ье а mirrоr image of соllаrshown.

2. Cut а piece of 1-inch,wide laceinsertion long enough to extend Иinch beyond both edges of соllаr.Trim away heading, up to secondscallop line, on both sides of 1асе

inseгtion. If substituting а lacewith паrrоwеr headings, this mауnot Ье песеssагу (fig. 1). Pin lacein рlасе along marked lines onpattern piece and zlgzag in рlасеочеr both sides of heading threads(\Xz=1.5; L=1.0). Press (fig. 2).

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FlGURE 2

SewBeautifulmag.com з1

3. Cut а piece of %-inch laceinsertion (|асе *2) long enoughto place beside lace #1 (towardoutside edge of collar) and extendИ iпсh beyond both соllаr edges.Ztgzag in place (ýИ=2.0; L=1.0)stacking heading of lace #2

directly очеr heading of lace #1.

Press (fig. 3).

4. Cut а piece оf И-iпсh laceinsertion (1асе *3) long enough toаррlу beside 1асе #1 (toward insidebody of соllаr) and extend Yz-iпсhbeyond both соllаr edges. Zigzagin place (W=2.0; L=1.0) stackingheading of 1асе #2 directly очеrheading of lace #1. Рrеss; refer tofigure 3,

5. Cut а second piece of |асе #2

long enough to apply beside 1асе+] (toward inside body оf соIIаr)and extend Yz iпсЬ beyond bothсоllаr edges. Zigzag in place(\W=2.0; L=1.0) stacking headingof lace +2 directly over heading of|асе #З. Рrеss well.

6. Continue clttting and applyingstrips of 1асе in sequence (rеfеrto collar photo) established untilentire соllаr is сочегеd with lace(fig. 4).

7. Lay рареr pattern очеr silkofgaпza with all lace strips andcheck to see iг оutеr lines аrеstill ассuгаtе. sometimes а bit ofshifting can оссuf. If песеssаrу,

rеdrаw outer соllаг edges with а

wash-away marking реп, takingсаrе to align first strip of 1-inchlace insertion to placementmarkings on pattefn.

8. Cut collar out on marked (andadjusted) outside lines.

9. Working очеr а lace-shapingsurface (for example 7z-inch foamсоrе board), pin lace edgingright side up to оutеr raw edgesof collar. Scalloped edge ofedging should lie evenly alongoutside соllаr edge. Pin in placeat approximately И-iпсh intervals.Inside edge of edging will havefullness, which will Ье rеmочеd innext Step.

10. Extend edging И iпсh beyondneckline edges of collar. Isolateoutermost heading thread oninside edge and pull up to drаw infullness on inside heading threadof edging. Repeat frоm oppositeside until entire heading threadline on inside edge lies flat (fig. 5).

11. Рiеrсе pins in а sidewaysmаппеr so collar can Ье lifted upoff Ьоаrd and taken to sewingmachine.

12. Ztgzag (ýИ=1,5-2.0; L =1.0)over heading threads all the wayaround inside heading edge оГ laceedging.

13. On $/rопg side, press seamallowance toward body of соllацfully exposing оutеr lace edging.

14. On right side, keeping seamallowance pressed in toward bodyof collar, zigzag (ý7'=2.ý; L=,8)

over heading threads а11 the wayaround inside heading edge of laceedging (fis. 6).

15. On sirong side, чеrу саrеfullуtrim away all of seam alloцranceright up close to ztgzag stitchingfrоm Step 14.

16. Press completed соIlаr well.

17. At frопt edge 1ау а rulеr alongraw neckline edge and extend thatline through 1асе eclging (see fig. 6).

Cut lace edging off on that line.

З2 Sеrл Веаutlful octoberNovember 2013

Continue

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free pattern lacy sailor dress

Rawedge ofсоllаr

even withscallop of

lace

Bodicebacklining

FlGURЕ 7

Zigzag,addedlace iпplace

bothsides

FlGUBE з

BODICE rRONT AND ВАСК1. Fr-rse а 2-inch strip оf interfacingalong back Гoldline on eachbodice back. Рrеss along Гoldlineon bodice back creating а bodiceback and а bodice back lining.The interГacing will Ье sandwichedbetween the lауеrs. (fig 7).

2, Ftrse а 2-inclr squаге оfiпtеrГасiпg очеr lоwеr "Y" pointon bodice fгопt. Cut iпtеrГасiпg toshape of bodice ftont (fig. 8).

3. Stay-stitch (L=1.5) at Yц,tпсhto dot mаrkеd оп bodice frопtpattern, Clip to dot.

4. stitch bodice Гrопt to bodicebacks at shoulder seams using а ,%-

inch seam allowance. press seansopen (fig. 9).

5. Stitch frопt bodice lining to backbodice linings at shor.rldeг seafiIs.Press seams open. The neckline isnow fornred.

АТТАGНING ТНЕ COLLAR1. Right sides trp, pin both соllагsections to neckline, matchingshoulder markings and positioninglоwеr front scalloped edge ofсоllаr to clipped point of stay-stitching. Тhе ollter scalloped edgeоГ edging at back оf соllаr shotrldsit right at center back line, whichis %-inch in Гrоrп back folded edge(fig. 10).

2. Stitch соllаr in рlасе (L=2.0) at1А-iпсh seam allowance,

F|GURE 4

FlGURE 6

Bodice frопtWS

FlGURE 8

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,-эJ :: /,1 \-/ :j:.,

FlGURE 5

F|GURЕ 10

SewBeautifulmag.com зз

F|GURE 1з

Stitch RStogether 7"

F|GURE 15

Fold соllаr back andtopstitch inset to bodicefrопt, close to finished

edge (left collar поtshоwп for clarity)

stltchlnghеrе

3. Right sides togetheг, foldlining очеr bodice frопt and back,sandwiching соllаr in between,check that shotrlder seams аrеaligned. Stitch аrоr.rпd епtirеneckline (L=1.5) taking care toStitch riE]ht to point at сепtеr fгопt(fig. 11). NOTE: It is а gооd ideato drop stitcb lепgtЬ dоtоп to 1,0to go аrоuпd роiпtfоr iпcreasedstability, especially ulЬеп tаоrkiпgtpitb silk, tllbicb teпds to rauel.

4. Clip lining at сепtеr fгопt toStay-Stitched point. Clip intoseam alloý/ance along сurчеdаrеа around neckline. Flip liningto wrопg side and gently press,rolling lining slightly to q/rопg

side.

5. Understitch lining to seamallowance frоm shоuldеr seamdown to wlrere соllаг ends.Repeat fог other side.

FRONT INSET1. Stack and pin tоgеthег thrееrectangles оf silk ofganza each 7(w) х 12 inches (l). Dгаw а linewith а wash-as/ay mагkiпg репИ-tпсh down fгоm top edge.

2. Тrim away heading, Llp tosecond scallop line, on both sidesof а 6-inch piece of l-inch 1асе

insertion; rеfеr to figuге 1. Zigzag(ýИ=1.5; L=1.0) one edge tо linefгоm Step 1 (fig. 12).

3. Continue tгirrrming piecesof 1-inch lace insertion andzigzagging thеп-r (\W=2.0; L=1.0)очег heading оГ pгevior-ls piet,eоГ lace. Using Front Inset patternpiece as а guide, decrease lengthof еасh subsequent piece оf laceto fill in space песеssагу Гоr frопtinset. Ве аý conservative withуоuг 1асе as possible (fig, 1).

4. Cut ollt frопt inset frorrr triplelayer of silk organza being carefulto place tl-re % -inch seamlinealong top edge оГ first lace piece(fig. 14).

5. Place 4th silk оtgапzа rесtапglеto tгiрlе lауеr riglrt sides together.

F|GURE 11 F|GURE 12

FlGURE 14

FiGURЕ 16

Zigzag

.t

trъýHIEntredeuxYlt

ffi| / oneside

lflф Еl \ trimmed

ф]ш lffiffi)

FIGURE 17

з4 Sеrл Веоutiful ОсtоЬеr/NочеmЬеr2O1З

FlGUBE ,l8

Stitch triple lауеr to single lауегall tl"re way tlp one sicle, acfosstop edge keeping straigl.t stitchesright trp next t() zigzagged |асеheading, апс1 down opposite sicle,stopping approximately 2 incl.esГrоm bottorrr (fig. 15).

6, Trirn seam allowances down to'l inch апс1 tгitrr ollt с()гпегS

7. Тtrгп right sides out, throllghLlottonr opening; рrеss well.

8. Тгiпr batiste sеаm allowancecompletely away fгоm one side ofа 7-inclr piece of епtгеdеuх.

9. Right sides r-rp, zigzag (ýИ=2.0;

L=1.0) а 7-inclr piece of %-inchlace edging to holes оГ entredeux(fig. 16).

10. Тгirп оtlrег seanr allowanceconrpletely away.

11. Fold епtrеdеuх/lасе edgingback on itself at eaclr end andpress. Entredeux striр slrotrld Ьеsапrе length as top eclge of inset.Тrim folcl backs to % inch eacl-r.

12. Zigzag entгecletrx edge('ýи=2.0; L=1.0) to top оГ lace onггопt inset. Тhе folcl back at eachепс1 оГ inset will thce ttl right side.

13. Close opening at sicle of Ггопtinset witl. ,l zigzag (ý7=2.5; L=1.5)

14. ý7ith pins, mаrk оГГ а %-incl-r

line along both sicles оГ fiont inset(fig. 17).

15. Position fiont inset to insideог bodice ft,ont witlr entredeuxtor_rching t,trzrrked сiгсlеs. Pin linernarked on front inset shouldгеstаlопg finisITed соllаr eclge, andГrопt inset will extend beyondbottom edge оf }lodice frопt.

16. Fclld соllаr back or.rt оГ theway and topstitch inset to boclicefiont close to finishecl edge. Stopstitclring at point whеге lace fiomсоllаг, once folcled into finishedposition, will no lопgеr сочеr thestitclring

17. Тгirп оГf organza fiorr-r ttontinset so tlr;rt it is even witl-r

bottom оГ bodice fiTlrrt (fig. 18).

frее pattern lacy sailor dress

SewBeautifulmag.com з5

a

lI

side seamiII

F|GURE 19

Stitch placket to sleeve

FlGURE 21

FIGURE 20

А. Fold чпdеr 7д"

SIDE SEAMS1. sew bodice front to bodicebacks at side seams. press seamopen (fig. 19.

2. Sew bodice frопt lining tobodice back linings at side seams.Press seams open.

StEEvE PIAсKET ANDUNDERARM SEAM1.'W'rопg sides tоgеthеr, pin bias-cut silk оrgапzа interlining tobias-ctrt sleeve. Treat as one 1ауеrfог all furthеr sleeve construction.

2. Маrk 3-inch slit fоr placket.Machine stitch (L=1.5), throughboth lауеrs, чеrу close tomarked line, pivoting with onemachine stitch at end of slit, andcontinuing down other side. Cutbetween stitching lines throughboth layers (fig. 20).

3. Cut two placket strips fогsleeves еасh].уц inches х 6%

inches. Right sides togetherand working Trith sleeve sideup, stгaight stitch (L=]..5) placketto sleeve using а 7B-inch seamallowance. ýИhеп you get towithin 1-inch frоm lowest slitpoint, dесrеаsе stitch lengthto 1.0 and allow sleeve seamallowance to decrease down toalmost nothing at lowest slit point.Keeping sewing machine needledown, gently pivot at lowestslit point and proceed stitchingup other side, increasing stitchlength to 1.5 and keeping seamallowance at % inch (fig. 21).

4. Press uпdеr |ц inch опremaining placket edge. Pressseam allowance toward placket.

5. Place folded edge of placketjust очеr seamline frоm Step 3.W'orking frоm wrong side, topstitchright next to folded placket edgethrough all lауеrs (flg,22).

6. Fold placket, right sidestogether, and stitch straight acrosýend оf placket, ovef-stitchingplacket Ьу about thrее stitches,

Sleeve WS

FlGURЕ 22

В. Fold edgejuSt очеrseamline

С. Topstitch

Mark slit

зб SешВеаutifil ОсtоЬеrЛ,lочеmh2013

free pattern lacy sailor dressPlacket RStogether

Stitchgatheringthreads at

Fold pipingback 7в"

away frоmtop

Piping between cuff lауеrs

Cuff lining WS

Stitch again

С. Trim

FlGURЕ 26

pivot, and Stitch in а tiny dartabove sleeve placket. This fоrms аsmall pleat on otltside, concealingplacket (flg.2),

7. Frепсh seam underarm seamof sleeve. press seam allowancetоwаrd back оf sleeve.

SLEEVE СUГF1. Run two lines of gatheringthreads (L=3.0) (at 7а inch andYz iпсh) along lower edge ofsleeve. Кеер lap side of sleeveplacket folded into finishedposition (fig. 24).

2. Fuse interfacing to wrong sideof cuffs. Stitch И inch away frоmtop edge as а guide fоr whеrе toend piping.

3. Using 1-inch-wide bias strips,make two pieces of piping longenough to go around each cuff.Pin and stitch piping to rightside of interfaced cuff aroundent,ire оutеr edge. Clip piping asпесеSSагу to go around сurчеS.

F|GURE 24

Stitch

FlGURЕ 27

Fold piping back into seamallowance on а 90 degree angle at

both %-inch seamlines (fig. 25).

4. Stitch along uрреr seamlineof cuff lining. Press %-inch seamallowance to wrong side.

5. ýИith right sides together andmatching rаw edges, pin and stitch(L=1.5) сufГ lining to ctrfT аrоuпdоutеr edge, sandwiching piping inbetween. Use stitching line frоmStep 3 as а guide. Stitch (L=1.5) а

second time Иь inch away.

6. Тrim very close to ýecondstitching line.

7. Turn cuff right sides out andgently press. Piping shoulddisappear into seam allowance at

Yz-jлсЬ seamline (flg. 26).

8. Pin cuff to bottom of sleeve,drawing up gathering threadsto fit. Stitch in рlасе. Stitch аsecond timе Vц inch away in seamallowance. Тrim close to secondstitching line through all layers(fig. 27).

FlGURЕ 25

FlGURЕ 28

9. Press seam allowance towardcuff and hand sew lining in place,encasing seam allowance.

SETTING IN SLEEVES

NOTE: ТЬе bodice апd liпiпg t"uill

ье treated as опе as sleeues аrе setiп.

1. Stitch tv/o rоws of gatheringthreads (L=3.0), (at 1/ц iпсl;r апd Vz

inch) along сар of sleeve betweennotches. ýИith right sides togetherand matching rаw edges, sleevedot to shoulder and uпdегаrmseams, pin sleeve into аrmhоlе.Dгаw up gathers to fit. Stitchusing а %-inch seam allowance.Stitch а second time Yц inch awayin seam allowance. Тrim throughall layers чеrу close to secondstitching line (fig. 28).

2. То bind аrmhоlе with SeamsGreat, zigzag (\iИ=2.0; L=1.5) oneedge of Seams Grеаt right nextto first stitching line frоm Step 1.

Очеrlар Seams GreatYz inch at

uпdеrаrm.

FlGURE 2з

В. Stitch again С. Trim

А. Stitch

SewBeautifulmag.com З7

ý7rар Seams Great around rawedge and zigzag (ýИ=2.0; L=1.5)in place on opposite side. Gentlysteam bound seam allowancetoward sleeve.

PREPARING ТНЕ SKIRTCut (tеаr) skirt front and backto dimensions listed on cuttingguide оп centerfold.

SKIRT CONSTRUCTION ANDFINISHINGInstructions fоr skirt, finalconstruction and finishing detailscan Ье found on the puIloutcenterfold.

tАGЕ AND SILK ORGANZABEtT1. Stack three layers of silkorganza (2 х 18 inches). Pintogether.

2. Cut а piece of 1-inch 1асеiпsегtiоп to the followingmeasurements:

Size4-14inchesSize 5 - 14Yziпсhеs

Size6-15inchesSlze/-l)72lncnesSize8-16inches

3. Тrim away heading, uр tosecond scallop line, on bothsides of l-inch lace inseгtion;геfеr to figure 1.

4. Сепtеr 1-inch lace insertionочег stacked organza апdzigzag (ýИ=1.5; L=1.0) along bothheadings.

5. Pin 4th silk organza rесtапglе(2 х 18 inches) to tгiрlе lауеr (laceside).

6. Straight stitch (L=1.5) гight nextto both headings on 1асе.

7. Trim seam allowances down to% inch and cut ends off ечеп withlace (fig 29).

8. Саrеfullу turn right sides out.NOTE: А %-iпсЬ diameter FastТurп is uery belpfulfor turпiпglace/orgaпza rigbt sides out,

9. Using а pin оr other shаrрtip, tllfn ends % inch to inside of

"tube" and press.

38 Ser.u Becutiflul OctoberNovember 2013

FlGURE 29

FlGURE 33

10. Тrim one batiste seamallowance completely away frоmtwo pieces of entredeux 2 inches1опgеr than finished length оГ beltГгопt.

11, Zigzag (\iИ=2.0; L=1.0) %-inch-wide lace edging to tгimmеdedges of both pieces оГ entredeux.Тrim remaining batiste seamallowances а\л/ау оп both piecesof entredeux.

12, Zigzag ('ýИ=2.5; L=1,0) trimmedentredeux edges to finished edgesof belt frопt, turning entredeux/edging back to wrопg slde at а 45

degree angle at each finished endand stitching right thrоugh folded-back section.

13. Тrim excess entredeux/edgingcompletely away on wrong side(fig. 30).

14. Cut two sashes tomeasllrement given on cuttingguide on centerfold.

15. ýИith right sides tоgеthеr andmatching rаw edges, fold eachsash lengthwise. Pin and stitch(L=1.5) down long raw edge thendiagonally at а 45 degree angleасrоss end. Тrim seams to anaccurate 1l inch (they will showthrough) and clip соrпеfs (fig. 31)

16. Тurп гight side out and press.

17. Ruп two lines of gatheringthreads (L=3,0) асrоss unfinishedend of sash first at %inch andsecond at % inch.

free pattern lacy sailor dress

В, Тurп lace 45",zlgzag

FlGURE з0

Stitch, tie off,gather to fit,

tie off

FlGURЕ з2

chain stitchedbelt loop

pleated skirtRS

FlGURE з4

18. Tie two sets of gatheringthrеаds together at one end.

19. Gаthег sash up until it will fitinside finished end of lace beltfrопt. Tie off gathering threads onremaining end (fig. 32).

20. Position sashes inside finishedends of 1асе belt front, hidinggathering threads. Securely handsew sashes in рlасе all the wayаrоuпd turпеd-uпdеr end of 1асе

belt frопt (flg. 3r.21. Make chain-stitch belt loops at

side seams and 1 inch away frоmeach center back to hold belt inplace (fig. 3q,@

(л

=уФсо

pleated ski11RS

Straight Stitch

stitch, then trim

FlGURE з1

Hand sew around belt

SewBeautifulmag.com З9

STYLE,

Fall can speak to us in all sorts of ways. rilZhеthеr wе'rе sрruс-ing up оur ov/,n wаrdrоЬе with а high-style combination of 1асе

and wool suiting, dressing our table with а 3-D heirloom touchоr smocking something special for that first day back to school, а

change in the season gives us а rеаsоп to sew.

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During the holiday season, it's all in the details, making sureeach dress has the perfect touch give it that Christmas magic.

Оur Holiday Enchantment includes shimmering ribbon flowers,garlands made of 1асе and ofnaments of реаrls, glorious

smocking and heirloom touches on а chгistening ensemblesuitable any time of уеаr.

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template can Ьеfочпd оп the pullout

centerfold.

SewBeautifulmag,com 51

Ву Amelia lohanson (frоп.l page 42)

Lace Overlay Skirt

SrneШty

&t;rlrlФrа"

SKIRT PATTERNSоrrу to say the exactpattefn I used has beenout of print Гог awhile,It's Simplicity #S664(fоr anyone who has аSimplicity stash оr wantsto search online), but it'srеаIlу just а basic, straight,pencil skirt pattern. I chosethe simplest variation (viewВ) - with а slit at the сепtеrback hemline and shapingdarts at the front and backwaistlines.

So оftеп l,]Гi,п"magazineJtn mind, so when I

work, I try to take constructionnotes and often Step-by-Stepphotographs to develop intoan article. This skirt, however,I made fоr myself, fоr рlеаsurе,not thinking it would endup hеrе. Then I wore it tothe office. Ечеrуопе insistedI share with rеаdеrs how tomake it, so I've done mу bestto rеtrасе mу steps fоr you.

The design was based onа ts/eed skirt with an оrапgеguipure lace overlay I saw inа booth at а sewing ехро inMichigan, The lace, however,was rаthег pricey, so I scurriedочеf to the end-cuts table atVogue Fabrics and dug throughtheir offerings until I unearthedа wide butterscotch galloonand а сооrdiпаtе suiting fоrthe underskirt. (Fоr the lining I

used есru silk charmeuse.)

What you'll пееd...PatternСоmmеrсiаl pencil skirt pattern with

frопt darts at waistline; zipper back

FаЬriс (Ассоrdiпg to pattern size)Wool suiting

Wide lace yardage with scallopededge

Silk charmeuse (оr other lining fаЬriс)

NotionsКК2000 Теmроrаrу Sрrау Adhesivelnvisible zipper iп со|оr to match lасеАir- оr heat-soluble marking репBasic sewing supplies

@This pro.|ect was stitched оп а HusvqarnaViking Designer SE sewing machine.

Ноtл to mаkе it...PATTERN ADAPTATIONSМу adaptations, оthеr thanthe очегlау. inclr"rded trsing aninvisible zipper сlоsurе in back,rаtlrеr than а standard 7-inchzipper strggested in the notions,and gгаduаllу tарегiпg tlre patternside seams slightly fbr а mоге 40ssilhouette. I also created а liningin the following mаппеr;

1. Cut Ггопt and back pieces fromsilk сhаrmеtrsе.

2. Cut frопt facing and backГacings frоm раttегп piecesprovicled.

3, Маrk and stitch darts inсhаrmеusе skirt,/li ning pieces(fig. 1).

4. Place front Гасiпg piece diгectlyon top of skiгt/lining piece (wtongside of facing to right side of skirt)making sllre top and side edgesare aligned. Тrасе lоwеr line (edge)

of facing dircctly onto skiгt/liningwith а an air-solr-rble ог lreat-sоluЬlе rnaгking реп (fig. 2). Setfacing piece aside. This will Ье

уоLIr Stitching line.

F|GURE 1

Pattern piece

Маrk; thiS Will Ьеyour stitching line

52 Sеrл Beautrfиl October/November 2013

FlGURЕ 2

5. Dravr а line % inch аЬочеstitching line (fig. 3); this will Ьеyour cutting line.

6. Cut off top of skirt/lining frопtalong cutting line.

7. Place facing piece to пеw skirt/lining piece, right sides togetherand stitch using а %-inch seam(flg. 4). Flip facing up; press seamopen.

8. Repeat same procedure withboth back facings and back skirt/lining pieces. Stitch up skirt liningat side seams and you hаче а self-facing with а tailored silk liningattached (fig.

'.9. After your skirt is sewn,аррlу facings around waistlineas instructed in pattern. Stitchup сепtеr lining seam betvreenzipper and skirt slit. Fold underrаw lining edges, press, andhand blind-stitch to skirt iпtеriоraround turned-up hеm, up slitand around zipper (fig. ба and бЬ).

Wool facingSuiting WS

lnside ofcharmeuse lining

Stitch Upside seams

FlGURE 5

how-to autumn style

FlGURE бв

SemBeautifulmag,com

FlGURЕ з

tch using а %" sеаm

Charmeuso liпiпq RS

FlGURЕ 4

F|GURE бА

5з

tAcE ovERtAYI wanted the 1асе overlay to fitthe сurчеd lines of the pencilskirt in the hip аrеа but I didn'twant side seams in the lace thatwould Ьrеаk up the 1асе design.Achieving that took а little mоrеingenuity, but because the skirtalready had darts in the frontand back, I was able to add whatаррещ to Ье darts in the sideseams, and it worked perfectly.

1. Determine how long you wantlace overlay to Ье, making sureto alloчr for top seam allowance.Маrk and cut acfoss top (so youаrе left with а scalloped edge atthe bottom). cut straight асrоsstop making sure you have enough1асе to go around skirt frоm backseam to back seam at widestpoint of skirt, usually the hip аrеа.Set lace aside NOTE: оп tbe shirtsbotllп, tbe lace ouerlay is аЬоut2 iпсЬеs shorter tЬап tbefinisbedskirt ffig,7).

CutStraightacroSS

FlGURE 7

54

2. Cut out skirt pieces fгоmsuiting and stitch опе skirt sideseam Ьу basting frоm top edge fоrapproximately 5 inches. Fix stitch,change to а поrmаl stitch lengthand continue sewing rеmаiпdегof seam, Press seam open. NOTE:Tbere is по пееd tofinisb tbe seamsiпсе tbe shirt is liпеd. Repeatforsесопd side seam.

3. Pin lace очеrlау to skirt (wrongside of overlay to right side ofskirt.) Smooth out lace in frопtand back, positioning 1асе patternas desired, trim off any excess1асе at skirt сепtеr back so laceis aligned to top and back edgesand сепtеr back edges. NOTE:yоu шill baue excess lace iп theside seam аrеа at tbe top. Marhапd seusfront апd back daПstbrougb botb skiп апd lace layers.It is Ьапdу to use afabric safespray adbesiue bere, to secure tbelayers togetber before seuliпg tbedarts so tbat tbe lace layer doesп'tsblft.

,p;-Excess Iacel,

Lace overlay RS

4. At this point you will haveexcess 1асе at top side seams; laces/as cut straight but skirt сurчеsin this аrеа (fig. 8), Carefullyopen basted раrt of skirt sideseam with а seam ripper. Clipinto center of excess lace straightdown for about 4 inches, makingSure cut is not longer than openраrt of seam. Overlap lace, insertit into seam opening, pin tosecure and stitch up skirt seamfrom wrопg side so that you catchexcess 1асе in seam (figs. 9а апd9Ь). Frоm right side of skirt, thissimply looks like а dart similaг tothose in skirt front and back.

5. Repeat fоr second skirt sideseam. Apply invisible zipper inсепtег back seam according topackage instructions treating laceand fabric layers as one. Finishskirt according to pattern andadaptations detailed previously. @

cut andinsertlaceinto

Seam

ТriйaWay

exceSSlace

SideSeam

Sеш Веаиtiful ОсtоЬеrNочеmЬеr2013

FlGURE 8 FlGURE 9А FlGURE 9в

how-to ачtчmп style

Elegant Leaf Table RчппеrВу Patty Dunn (frоrп page 4З)

Us iпqi:;:?*,.fi"-adds an eleg-'ant touch to уоursurroundings. This organzatable ruппеr is designed withа simple leaf pattern in 3Dand traditional аррliquё. Тhеtechnique uses decorativestitching апd а wing needle.If you afe пеw to wingneedlework, this project willЬе an adventure that will opennew horizons in sewing foryou. It сап Ье used in appliquё,applylng laces, makingentredeux or just decorative

stitching for embellishment.The key to wing needlework ischoosing а natural fabric andа decorative stitch that геtчrпsto pierce the same hole at leastonce.

Ц/hat you'll пееd...PatternLeaf templates on pullout centerfold

Fabric|zуаrd of silk оrgапzаз/l yard of si|k dupioni (for border and

leaves)

Stabilizer1/zyard of water-soluble stabilizer (оr

heat-away)

ThreadDecorative metallic threadAll-purpose thread to match fаЬriс

12Wt

NоtiопsWing needleRegular sewing machine needle to

suit fabric weightLarge-eyed hand sewing needleSewing machine with decorative

stitchesOpen toe embroidery foot

@ Tbi" project was stitched оп а Веrпiпа12З0 scwing machine.

Ноtл to рrераrе it...cUTTING1. Cut two sizes of leaf templatesfrоm раttеrп.

2. Cut 74- х 36-iпсh pieces of silkorgalza and wash-away оr heat-away stabilizer. Test stitch with а

wing needle before you start finalstitching (do not skip this step).

3. Cut six 3- х 4-inch pieces frоmeach color оr 24 inches of oneсоlоr.

4. Border: Cut two 6- х 44-iпсhstrips and two 6- х 22-inch stгipsfrоЙ silk dupioni.

ServBeautifulmag.com 55

Trace and cut out leaf

Leaf fabric ws

FIGURЕ з

Starting atсепtеr of

leaf, stitch%"frоm

edge

PREPARING IEAVES1. Decorative appliqu6: Pressfusible web to wfong side ofsixteen J- х 4-inch pieces offаЫiсs (оr four of each colof).

2.3D |eaves: TWo of each соlоrwill Ье 3D - rеmоче fusible papet,place unfused fabric, wrong sideagainst fusiЫе; рrеýs together.

3. Тrасе leaf template at а 45degree angle on fabric (eightsrnall and eight large in variouscolors) Do this on both doubleand single fused fabric (fig. 1).

4. cut otrt all leaves on traced line.

PtAcEMENT1. Place pattern template(included) uпdеr оrgапzа; mаrkleaves and stems. Маrk 3D leavesц/ith Х.

2. Press fusible аррliquёs whеrеindicated and pin JD in place.

3. Place stabilizer under organzabase.

DECORATIVE APPLIQUf1. Set up machine with а wingneedle.

2. Choose your favoritehеirlооm stitch. (Sample featuresfeatherstitch). Always test on аsсrар of уоur project fabric withstabilizer underneath. Make noteof any adiustments.

3. Beginning at tip of leaf, stitch,following appliquё edge. Asуоu аррrоасh curves, stop, liftрrеssеr foot and turп fаЬriсЬеfоrе contintring. Stop at сепtеfbottom of leaf and rеturп to tipof leaf. Stitch dov/n opposite side,meeting stitches at bottom (fig. 2)

4. Using а large-eyed needle, pullthreads to viгопg side. Tie а knotwith all threads, including bobbinthread. \iИоrk all fused, appliqrrёdleaves in the same mаппеr,

STEMs1. Change wing needle to геgulаrneedle.

2. Regular appliquбd leaves:Using а triрlе stitch with longestlength ог а straight stitch s/ith12wt thread, stitch stems startingat inside of leaf and followmarked stem line to end (fig. ).Pull threads to wrопg side and tieas уоu did еагliеr.

3. 3D leaves: Fоld сепtег of leafin half. Using same machine stitch,start at center of leaf on fold,slightly curve stitching 1/8 inchaway frоm edge; fbllow markedline to end of stem. yоLlr leaf willlook like it has а dart (fig. 4). Tleoff as you did еаrliеr.

Ноtл to construct it...1. Маrk Yz-iпсh stitching line onall соrпегs оГ оrgапzа.

2. Магk сепtеr on all fоur sides ofоrgапzа.

3. Маrk center of each Ьоrdеr strip.

4. Рrеss all Ьоrdеr stгips in half(6 inches fold to J inches) to getсrеаSе, rеореп,

5. Leave stabilizer attached, br.rt

pin out of the way of Ьоrdегseamline.

6. ýИith right sides together, pinЬоrdеr striр to organza matchingcenter mаrk. pin to согпеrswhеrе seam allowance is mаrkеd(leaving the ехtrа Ьоrdеr endsloose).

7. Stitch from И-iпсh marked соfпеf,асrоss to other side, stopping atmarked соrпег (fig. 5). Clip соrпеr

sew frоm stitch line to stitchline, 7z" from edge

FlGURЕ 5

Fusibleweb

Тurпfabric assewingаrоuпdcUrveS

FlGURЕ 1

Stop at centerbottom andreturn to tip

FlGURE 2

Sewdownotherside

start steminside leafand follow

to end

ý

\\\\

FlGURЕ 4

56 Sеш Веаиtiful octoberNovember 201З

how-to ачtчmп sýle

point. Press seam toward Ьоrdеr.Repeat to other sides.

8. ТЬrп under unsewn raw edgeof border Yz irrch and press.

9. FoId соrпеrs of otganza atап angle, meeting right sides ofЬоrdеr strip corners.

10. Match foldlines of strips; pinto keep in place.

11. Маrk 45 degree miter with аrulеr, matching center crease withpoint of miter (fig. 6). Оо this опall соrпеrs.

12. Stitch miter frоm seamallowance crease to point, pivotand stitch to other side, stoppingat opposite foldline (fig. 7).

13. Тrim Уц iпсh frоm stitchingline. Press open seams. ТЬrпright side out, press welI and pinalready folded edge (fig. 8).

14. Рlасе back stabilizer underЬоrdеr. Stitch with wing needleand decorative stitch on seamline,catching folded edge onunderside (fig D,

15. Remove stabilizer. @

Organza WS Mark 45'

Foldlines Match foldlines ofЬоrdеr strips

miter; matchсепtеr creasewith point of

miter

from stitohline; trim tip

of point

Border WS

Оrgапzа WS stitch frоmseam allowanceto point; pivot,continue and

Stop at foldline

FIGURE 6

Воrdеr WS

Оrgапzа WS Trim 7ц"

Воrdеr RS

Organza RS

stitch оп seamline, catchingfolded edge

F|GURЕ 9

FlGURE 7

F|GURЕ 8

SerrBeautifulmag.com

Нарру Scarecrows: tack and Jill Straw Smocking PlatesВу Gwen Milner (frompage 44)

тй/hаt уоu'llпееd...(fоr smocking only)

FabricPleated 12-row inserts of white

45-inch-wide lmреriаl broadcloth(fоr each gаrmепt)

FlossDMC Six Strапd Embroidery Floss

#754 lt оrапgе#721 mеd оrапgе spice#З8З9 med lavender#70З chartreuse#704 bright chartreuse#742lt tапgеriпе#4З4lt Ьrоwп#3045 dk yellow beige#ЗЗ71 black Ьrоwп

Supplies#5 embroidery needles#18 darning needleSрrау starchАir-еrаsаЬlе making реп

Things to kпош...Рiсturе smocking is worked usingthree оr fоuг strands of DMC floss.use the пumьеr of strands thatwill give you thе best coverage fоrthe rоws of stacked cables, Thefloss should Ье separated fromits twisted fоrm off the skein asindividual strands. The strandsаrе placed back together with aslittle twist as possible. The stitchesshould Ье worked in а mаппеrthat offers а smooth, glossy stitch.This aпicle gives basic smockinginstructions fоr the design. Моrеin-depth instructions can Ье foundon оuf website at sешЬеаutifulmаgcorze. ýИhеп you аrе instructedto "invert," you should turn theentire insert upside down so that

уоur stitching rеsumеs above theprevious rоw.

SMOCKING NOTES. sсаrесrоws are six rоws inheight апd 34 pleats wide, whichmakes this design better suited to

\д/ith::,tr:1iЖж"harvest and the delightful andever-so-practical еmеrgепсеof the sсаrесfоw. Being oneof the most familiar figures inthe American rurаl landscape,this ragged сhаrасtеr is аnatural motif for back-to-schoolарраrеl. LetJack andJiIl Strawput а smile on the fасе of уоurlittle adventurer. Jack standsiп а cornfield while Jill posesamong the sunflowers.

GАRМЕNТ INFORMATIONDress is "Lee" from Thechildren's Соrпеr in соrпflоwеrblue lmperial broadcloth withwhite lmperial cuffs and соllаrtrimmed iп Nile green whipstitchpiping; boy's shortall is" Meghan-B rad-J umper/Shortall "

from Вriаr Patch Design ЬуBecky Summers in periwinklefeatherwa|e corduroy. All fabricsаrе frоm Spechler-Vogel, buttonsаrе frоm The Button Companyand inserts аrе self-piped.

58 Sеrл Beoutful octobeTNovember 2013

garments in а 4 to 8 size range.

. Соrп and sunflowers placementаrе similar on each design.

. Corn stalks will cover two pleatswhereas sunflower stems willсочеr only one.

. Elements аrе interchangeable;the Ьоу sсаrесrоw can stand in аfield of sunflowers.. Stitch count width and height fоrЬоу and girl scarecrows аrе theSame.

GЕТТING STARTED1. pleat white broadcloth insertwith 12 rows fоr each gаrmепt.Design is worked очеr 10 rows.

2. Backsmock Rows 2,3,4,5,6,7, 8 and 9 using floss to matchinsert,

3. Rows 1 and 10 аrе cable rоwsin chartreuse @70).

Ноtл to smock lack.... Воу scarecrow figure is centeredоп pleated insert.

. Соrп stalks stems/centefs аfеworked 15 pleats frоm widest(аrms) part of sсаrесfоs/.

. Тhеrе are 20 pleats betweenlаrgе and small соrп stalk stems/centerS.

,АСК SCARECROu/1. On Row 5, start with Jack's lefthand in lt orange @754); calэ|etwo beginning with а downсаЬlе on third pleat of J4 pleatsdesignated fоr figure,

2. Сhапgе to med оrапgе spice(#727), cable eight; change tomed lavender blue (*3839), саЬlеtwo; change to med огапgеspice, cable five; change to medlavender blue, cable two; change

how-to adtumn sýle

to med оrапgе spice, cable eight;change to lt оrапgе, cable tтro.

3. ýИоrkiпg down to complete

Jack's body, invert аftеr eachrоw, carefully following graphand соlоr changes. 'Work frоmthe neck up to complete Jack'shead. At each side of hat brimwork one trellis stitch and atpeak, wоrk two trellis stitchesto give hat а tapered look. (Аcomplete step-by-step cablecount is available on оur vrebsiteat S е ш Ь е aut ifulm ag, с оm)

,АСК DETAILS(Refer to grарh fоr рlасеmепt.). 'ýИоrk Frепсh knots wrappedtwice in brown/black @337l) foreyes,

. 'ýf'ork straight stitches in Ьrоwп,/black using one strand of floss fоrmouth.

. 'ý7ork sсаrесrоц/ pole in dkyellow beige (*3045) очеr twopleats in Satin Stitch with а three-cable base beginning with а downcable (see photo 1).

GORN STALKS. Each соrп stalk is worked withsatin stitches очеr ts/o pleats inЫight chartreuse (*704) as firstStep.

. The pairs of cornstalks аrеmirrоr images with stitch countsfor leaves remaining the same.

. Leaves аrе worked in chartreuse@70э).


1. Begin with fiгst соrп stock,wогkiпg satin stitch очег tц/о

1;leats as slrown on gгарhlletween Rows 10 zrncl 7.

2. Аftеr c:orlrpleting stalk, lэeginon R<lw 9 with гight leaf. СаЫеol-Ie очег stzrlk, treatirrg it as onepleat. \iИоrk Гсluг tлоге callleslleginning witlr а clown cable;skip а stitch, саЬlе two. \Witlr

wсlrk still lrclcl in uргight position,corтle Llp llelow last c;rlэle stitch,саые one, trellis down twcl.

3. То finislr Llрреr раft оГ leaf,саые five, iпчегt work, calllethгес,.

4. L]se tlre sапlе tec:lrnique Гогworking all leave to sicles оГstocks, сагеftrllу following stitclrcollnt inverting wlrеге песеss,lгуto cotnplete leaves.

5. Fог leaves at top оГ stocks,(fiгst stock), wогk tl-rгее call]esbegirrning with an up cable jtlstallove Row 7. Bring neeclle trpаIlоче last саЫе ancl calэle two.Cclme ttp jtrst above last callle anclwогk tl.гее cabies. Вгiпg neecller-rp Llelow Iinal саЫе апсl workan trp счrЫе, tlren а single tгеllisclclwn, Iпчеrt iпsегt ancl wоrksal]le stitcli cotlnt on left sicle.

рното 1

DETAILS

Corrrplete coгnstalks witlr br_rllion-stitched соrпсоlls in it tапgегiпеe74D. IIse tоtrг stгzrncls of f'lrlssапсl а сlагпiпg r-ieeclle; wогkllullion stitch with eiglrt wгарs.Place as inclicateci on grарh.

Hotu to smock /ill...' Girl sсагес:гоw figtlге is сепtегссlоп pleateci iпsегt,

. Stlпflоwег stemri/centers 1rгс

wогkесl 15 pleats flrlrrl wiclest(аrrпs) рагt оГ sсllгссг()w.

. Stellls l-tге satin stitchccl очег ollcpleet.

. f'hегс, ltre '22 plcats lletweenlагgе ancl stTlall sr.tпfltlwег stetl-ts/сепtегS.

JIIL SCARECROu/1. On Rclw 5, staгt with.|ill's letth:rncl in lt t;гаt-tgе (#75l+); саЫсtwo beginning lvith а clowncallle on tlriгсl pleat of J1+ pllelrtsclesignatecl fЬг figr.lге.

2. Clllrngc ttl I'l)(,(l ()l,itngL,ýpi(,L,

G727), callle eight; cliltr-rge ttltrlecl ]ачс,псlсг lllLle (+3839), calllctl.vcl; cllarlgc tо lllc(l ()гltll.gе

spicc,, сllllс fivc; chlrnge tcr tllecllачеrrсlег |lltle, calllc, two; cl-rangeto trrecl огапgс, sllicc, calllc eight;clrange t<l lt <>гапgе, calllc twcl.

3. ýИоrkiпg clown t<l c<lnrplete

Jill's b<lcly, iпчегt аГtег cltclr гtlw,с:trеГtrllу fcll lclwing gг:rрlr anclсоlог clranges, 'ý(l'огk fгtltlr thetreсk r_tp to c<lrrr1llete.|ill's heacl;skip lоwсг tц.rl callle гоws llesiclct:rce tl,urt сгсаtе lrair/llгaicl. Thcscrrvill 1lе stitchc,cl last. At sic|cs

J

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Sеш Beautiful october/November 201з

how-to ачtчmп style

of hat and peak, finish withtrellis stitches, as реr graph. (Аcomplete step-by-step cable countis available on оuг website ats е ш, Ь е а utifu lm ag, с о п,l.)

4. After completing hat, use апair-soluble marking реп in аslight аrс to follow fоr the wheat-stitched braid. 'ýйorking оп rightside of Jill's face, cable fоur inmed. orange spice, beginningnext to face/cheek, (approx. Row4-L/2). ýИоrk fiче stem stitches fоrtop раrt of braid, tie off. Соmеuр at outermost cable at bottomrow of face, саЬlе four, and workfive outline stitches fоr lower раrtof braid, tie off. Invert work, andгереаt fоr left side of Sсаrесrоw.

,ItL DETAILS. Finish hair Ьу making loose hairbraid ends frоm six strands offloss. Наir is stitched with endsleft long on Гrопt, stitched to back;tack stitch to апсhоr, bring stitchback to frопt in the same pointthat stitch was entered. Gatherall the loose floss ends and trimto length. Sрrау stаrсh will helpkeep floss ends stiff.

. \iИоrk Fгепсh knots wrappedtwice in brovrn/black fоr eyes.

. 'ýfоrk mouth in straight stitchesin brown/black using one strandof floss. See graph for placement.

. 'ý7'ork sсаfесrоw роlе overtwo pleats in satin stitch usingdk yellow tэеigе @3О45) with аthree-cable base beginning with аdown cable (see photo 1).

SUNFtowERSSuпflоwеrs аrе чrorked beginningwith centers on Rows 5 апd7,

1. Begin on sixth pleat frоmcenter, cable fоur dk yellow beige,three lt Ьrоwп (#434), fоur dkyellow beige. Invert, workingbottom of sunflower, move twopleats, саЬlе seven. Invert; worklower flо.пrеr tips in single cablestitches ending with а single trellisworked loosely. Return to workuрреr flоwег; cable seven in dkyellow beige. Invert; wоrk flоwеrtips as single cable stitches endingwith single trellis stitches. Al1sunflowers follow the same stitchcount.

2, stems аrе satin stitched inbright сhаrtrеusе (*704) очеr onepleat (see photo 1). (See graph fоrplacement.)

3. lйоrk leaves in chartreuse@703) on Rows 7 and 8 fоr tаllеrstems, Rows 8 |/z, апd 9 fоr shоrtStems.

а. Lаrgеr leaves: Fоr leaves onleft side of stem, begin 10 pleatsto left of сепtеr stem. Cable sеrzеп,

trellis down two, cable опе очеrstem. 'ýVоrk three cables abovebase rоw and five cables beloмrbase rоw according to graph,inverting work as needed. Tie off.Fоr leaves on right side, cable oneочеr stem, trellis up two, cablefive. 'ý?'оrk thrее cables abovebase rоw and five cables belowbase rоw, inverting wоrk asneeded.

Ь. Double smаllеr leaves: Fоrleaves on left side, begin eightpleats to left of center. Cable five,trellis down two, cable очеr stem,trellis up two, саЬlе five. ýf'оrkthree cables очеr top of base rowоп each side, according to grарh.

с. Single smаllеr leaves: Fоrleaves to left of stem, begin withthe five-cable row and trellisdown to complete with а singlecable очеr stem. Fоr leaves toright of stem, begin with а singleсаЬlе, trellis up and complete withcables according to grарh. @


HoIid EnchantmentGreen & GoId Silk Elegance Smocking DesignВу Gheryl R. Davidson (Jrompage 48)

christmascelebrations аrе made fоr thisluxurious gfееп silk dupionidress. Smocked in an elegantdiamond and serpentinepattern in glorious gold andtraditional shades of rеd, thedesign captures the essenceof the season as brilliantly asholiday tree.

Ц/hat you'll пееd...

Pattern" pascale" sew Веачtifчl collection

раttеrп (sto rе. mа rth а pu l l е п, соml

Fabric (yardage according topattern)Grееп silk dupioni

Notions#7 dаrпеr needle (fоr smocking)#10 sharp need|e (for embroidery)

FlossDMC Six Strand ЕmЬrоidеrу:

#З82,1 straw#890 ultrа dk pistachio grееп#З04 med rеd#З47 vy dk salmon#зз28 dk salmon

64 Sеrл Веаutiful octoberNovember 2013

Ноtл to pleat it...1. Веfоrе pleating fаЬriс, foldselvage edges together to findand mark center front of fabricfоr design placement. TIP: Siпсеsilkfabric bas а rерutаtiопfоrraueliпg, sergiпg the сut edgesЬфоrе pleatiпg tbefabric ulillpreueпt uпrulу silk tbreadsfrorпiпtеrfеriпg tlsitb your zaork,

2, Pleat 24 rочrs, which includes

using top and bottom rows asholding rоws.

3. PuIl up pleating threads indress frопt to equal width offront yoke measufement. Knotthreads securely to retain thismeasurement.

4. Using two strands of floss tomatch dress fabric, backsmockall rows that аrе not smockedon front so that pleats will alignрrорегlу fоr smocking design.

RoW ]9

RoW 20

RoW 2

RoW 2з

Ноtл to smock it...1. Locate сепtеr two pleats onRow 19 of уоur pleated fаЬriс.Using three strands оf strаw flossе3S2|) begin smocking with uрcable очеr two сепtеr pleats ofRow 19, working down а halfspace to Row 19%. СаЫе back upto Row 19, working а one-step,

half-space wave. Fill in Rows 19

through 21 with half-space waves.

2. Return to Row 19 and wоrk а

down саЬlе очеr second up саЬlеfrоm сепtеr wave. continue acrossfrоm Row 19 up to Row 19%

making four, hаlЁsрасе waves.Тurп fabric upside down andcontinue п/ith half-Space waves,graduating up to Row \7 апd

how-to holiday enchantment

forming top half of "smockeddiamond wаче." Мirrоr image thissmocked diamond half to bottom,starting on Row 21,, graduatingdown with half-space v/,ave toRow 23.

3. Rеfеr to smocking graph andrepeat these steps, smocking todress top.

SewBeautifulmag,com 65

СОNSТRUСТIОN TIPIVhen smocking а garmentfrоm shoulder to waist, it isbetter to pin the finished,smocked frопt onto а pieceof tеаr-аwау stabilizer 1аrgеrthan the finished, smockedаrеа. Then lay the trасеd yokepattern piece on top of thesmocked area. pin the thrееlауегs together matchingmeasurements determinedЬу the pattern piece. Straightstitch along the аrm, shoulderand neck cutting line of thetraced pattern. Fоr insurance,before I cut away the excesssmocking, I will go back forа second time and stitch аtiny zigzag stitch очеr thefirst stitching line! You аrеnow rеаdу to carefully tеаraway the рарег раttеrп andstabilizer from the fabric.

Ноtл to embroider it...Bullion wrарs fоr roses аrеworked with two strands of flossin а size 10 shаrр needle. You willend up with а rose that is shadedfrоm а dark inside opening up tothe lightest shade outside. Refer tosmocking graph fоr placement ofroses, rоsеьuds and leaves.

BUILION ROSES

1. Begin dark rоsе center withthrее bullions in med red @304);each bullion worked with four,wraps. Use same holes into Аand В (fig. 1).

2. То make second соlог inbullion rоsе, use vy dk salmon@347) and place five bullionsaround original three centerbullions; each bullion workedwith six wrарs (fig. 2).

3. Fоr final third соlоr of rose,use dk salmon @ 3328) to wоrkseven bullions wrapped aroundоutеr edge, completing bullionrоsе; each bullion has eight wrарs(fig. ).4. Scatter rosebuds along top andbottom edges of smocking \л/ачеs,

ýИоrk each bud in two bullions;fоur wrарs fоr each petal, sharingsame original two holes.

LEAvEs1. Using one strand of ultra dkpistachio green (#890) floss, workfirst bullion of leaf with six wraps.

2. start second half of each leafЬу bringing needle back intosame hole, but очеr wrap needlev/ith eight to nine wrарs. Thiswill cause оutеr edge of bullionto сurче and show up as а leaf,instead of two bullions sitting sideЬу side.

Rеfеr to Pascale pattern fоrconstruction of dress. @

Bring needleout at А,

back in at В

А

вдý,gУ

Вriпg needle out at А,back in at В

FIGURЕ 1

Sеш Веаutfrll octoberNovember 201З

5 bullionsaround сепtеr З

FlGURЕ 2

7 bullions aroundsecond set

FlGURЕ з

D .ътiiЁ;

FlGURЕ 4

66


Mastering ЦIendy's Madeira НеmВу Wendy Schoen (from page 49)

This:ЖHl",I--loriousensemble of luscious cottonorgandy is made of softethereal colors. The bodice ofthe crisp, white organdy gov/,n

is styled with а high yoke, andliterally covered with hand-еmЬrоidеrеd eyelets of есruembroidery cotton. Preciouspuffed sleeves аrе generouslygathered and bound with silkbatiste. The long, full skirtis hand еmьrоidеrеd with аmyriad of flowers; it's shadowstitched, then embellishedwith granito dot сепtеrs andbackstitched stems. The hemis beautifully finished with аwide band of scalloped ivorysilk, Madeira аррliquёd andattached with point de paris

stitch Ьу machine then edgedwith tatting. А matching РеtеrPan collar is also edged withесru tatting. The matchingcoat features а high yokebodice and full, gathered

skirt, which opens to thefront. The precious сар bonnetis trimmed with Madeiraappliquё and еmЬrоidеrу tomatch. Неrе, ýV'endy shareswith us how she created theMadeira hem band; and as аbonus fоr readers, the skirtembroidery design is providedon the pullout centerfold.

What you'll пееd...NOTE: Materids iЫ ls for completegоwп; агtiсlе опlу соvегs the Маdеirаhеm Ьапd апd skirt еmЬrоidеrу,

Pattern"Ethereal Christening Ensemble" Ьу

Petite Росhё Ьу Wendy Schoen

Маdеirа hem band (on pulloutcenterfold)

Skirt еmЬrоidеrу template (on

pullout centerfold)

FabricЗ7z yards of white cotton оr9апZа'1 7z yards of ivory silk batiste

Trim2 yards of 'l-inch-wide ivory silk bias

4 yards of есru tatting

2 yards of mini piping cord/string,uпсочеrеd

22/зуаrds of 7+-inch-wide ecru silksatin riььопTwo %-inch buttonsTh rее']/+-iпсh buttons

ThreadTwo skeins of есru DMC Floss'1 50 strands of есru Floche

50wt White DMC thread

80wt white Маdеirа thread

Needles#7 betweens#9 crewels#7 dаrпеr

#1 0 sharps#60 оr #65 uпiчеrsаl machine

needles#110 universal machine needle

SuppliesMagnification & light

4- оr 5-inch Susan Bates Ноор

Thimble and fiпgеr shield

Clover tapered awlFiпе point blue wash-away marking

реп оr lead pencil

Measuring tapeFine еmЬrоidеrу scissorsDressmaker shears

Сlеаr plastic rulеr

Pinning board

Glass-head pins

Сlеаr, edge/joining and standardmachine feet

Stitch 'N Ditch teabaway stabilizer

Smocking pleater

Нош to hem it...MADEIRA НЕМ BANDThe hеm band is cut from silkbatiste, then appliquёd onto theskirt hem on the OUTSIDE.

1. Sprits silk strip with water andstarch until saturated. Blot excessmoisture, then iron dry. If silkisn't well saturated, it will spot.

2. Using Skirt pattefn as а template,transfer scallops onto silk batisteusing а wash-away fаЬriс mаrkеr.It is mоrе important to traceFOLDING lines of scallops fоrассurасу (fig. 1). NOTE: Yоu mustadd а seam allotllaпce Ьеуопd tbe

.foldiпg liпes ъuhеп сuttiпg out.

FlGURЕ 1

3. Join together hеm band stripsto fогm а ring, matching pointsof scallops exactly. Press seamsopen. Do not usе Frепсh seams.


1 .Ч,

:,,Backlit hem Ьапd detail'-:: -| |

, :l8,

ЁW,жёж.r;r;;, rlrli,il:] il :ll

4. MacIrine stay-stitcl-r alongIiOLDING lines оГ scalklps witl.cotton tl-rreacl (L=1.8). NOTE: t/selea r- а ша1, sta Ь i l izer ! о Рrа ue пt}шсkеriп54,

ATTACHING ТНЕ НЕМ BAND1..|<lin skiгt fl,ont to skiгt llack опONE cclge, ц"ith а Frепсlr sezirrr.

2. Using her.r bancl as а gtlicle,position lclclp to skiгt in rlгсlег toget 1n ltccllгate t-t-tcztsttгctrtent, anclthегl sew t_t1l гct-tl:rinit-lg sicle. Het-rlllatlcl slior_rlc1 sit elong lrcrrrlineat exzrct sltl-tte сiгсLttllfЪгеr-rсс.IГ it cloes not t-t-tatch, trrake1tcli tl stll1ents.

3. I)ositicln llern bancl tcl lretlr tlГskiгt, placir.g гiсht sicle оГ lrerrl tt;

wгоп!] sicle оГ skiгt. Pin in plzrct..,

rl-ratching siclc sc:ltrrs ar]c] edces.

4. Sсъ, alrlrlg lоwег eclgc сlГ skiгttcl att:rclr lrerr-r (L=2.0). Ргеss se1ll11s

tоrчагсl lrcl,t-r llапсi, irncl tlrcn ttlгпl-rerrl Llancl to OIJTSIDE аlогrgse;ttn. Ргсss caгeftrlly along scar-tr(fig. 2).

5. Hanc|-llaste hetll llancl tcl skiгtallortt И incIl ti,orTr scal-tr. :rncl tIlenabtltrt И ir-rclr fior-rr scallops.

6. Cltt :Lц,ау L,xcess f..rllгiс АtsоVЕscallops, lear.it-tg allotrt %-incllseatrl lrlloц,arrce fог tttгrring ttпс[ег.

7. Clip cllгves as песеsslrгу, апсltlren ttlгtr 1,1l\\, seallls tlпсlег toinsicle of lrem bancl, along stay-stitching. I]aste ir-r placc (fig. 3).

FlGURE 2

68 Sеш Веаиtifиi October/NovembeT 201З

F|GURЕ з

l,i

STITCHING ТНЕ НЕМ BAND 4. I)lacc ler.gtlir,r,,ise stitch itlst

1.'Гhгсlrсi tltltcliit-lc rvillt S{ )ir.t llcsitlc tblclecl cclgc cll'hc,tll ll:rncl

tltli.:ttl :trltI iltst.t'l ,,,,,,.]l ,',l* irrltl,t lгg;1111|1' llrllгit" Witltlrrr ist,

lltlllllir_r. '- btitch g()cs t<lrчltгсl herll llerlcl,

lrncl stitches tlr,,ег eclges ir-rtcl silk.2. llc1lllrr.'c rlcccllc rvitll +ll() N()TI]: pclsilicltt ct lэоl<,.lt lip (t-tttlir,'cгslt|. er.tch scallcryl, il;lc,tssible.

3. Iising tellг-1l\\,1lV stlrllilizcг 5, Ilcllltive llasti1-1g stitches апс|llcrlelrtlr, stitt,ll lrltlllg sc,lrll<l1ls stlrllilizcг ггсltll llcneath tirl>гiс.rr itIl ll|:ttt|rt,t stil(,ll l'(lll(,l i( )Il ( ,ll

r,сlttг trlllc[tit-tc (L=2.5; \(/=1.5) (scc

siclcllltг lleltl,,v).

PIN STITCH BY MACHINE'|-his stitt,ll is rrsccl lts lrr-r aclclitic)n to attaclr tl-ie [асе inseftioll toflt]lгic,. Y<lr_r tllt tst llltvc е l)ltгisi:lt,t stitch ()г lllankebstitch Гltr-rcticln

lltrilt inttl усlr-tг lrlltchitlc to accolrllllish it. YoLl will aiso neecl а

lагgе г<lLlпсl tlcccllc (sizc 120 tlrTivcrsal), tеаг-2lwау stallilizcг allcllightu,eiglit scrvit,lg tlrrсас|, sttch as Месlеiга t]Owt.

1. Sct lllarrl<et stit(,h scttitlg ()ll y()Lll,trrachine ancl acljtrst stitcl. as

tilll<lr,vs: l.=2.5. W=1.5.

2. I3cgi1-1 stitcllill.ч, t,tllll<irrg sr.rге lcngtlrп,ise stitches w<lrk clowt-t

сепtегlil-tс allcl ъ,iclthr.vise stitchcs stitch очег аррliсlr_rё hettl. Sk>ъ,

cltlrb.rr ш,hсп ltpllгtllrc:ltirlg 1t с()гпсг.

3. Тгу ttl с,гrсl lt stitc,ll l()tati()n ()1l tip оi а 1lclint al-tci plrt ncecile incl<lr,vt-l 1-1tlsiticlr-r. Lil't l)l,csscг tilclt ltrlcl tr,rгп fаllгiс, Cclntitrltc stitchillglrs Irсfсlге.


Hor,u to embroider it...SKIRT EMBROIDERY

1. trsirl8 а pirrrring llсlагсl, sссLlгеlу

1lir-r flrllгic сiчег skiгt terllplatcarT cl tгапslЬг еrlrllгсliсlt,гу c|esignсlrгсГLrllу tlsing а fiпе ptlirlt wash-аъ.ач pctl сlг leacl perrcil. IГ r_rsirrg

а pencil, tlrake sttгс t() tгапSt'ег

<lnto stегсlrссl sicle <lГ tlrIlгiс.

2. Ilcrtt, lv,_, llrllI,ir, l'tr llll 1rirltlillglхlагсl thеп plcat top cclge сlГ sliiгttlTlnt with hаlг гсlws to fill iгr агеаas l-tcltccl оп рхttсгп,

3. ()clr1-11llete ct-trllгciicl егу, ге [Ьггi ngttl с,tllllгоiсlсгу cliagгatlls tlпpr,rlltlr_rt сепtегfilld ar-rcl tllcfblloп,ing itlstrltctiotrs:

а. \WitIl есгr_r F'lclchc, stitcllflсlц,егs al-icl slчiгls in sllaclclwstitclr, trsing #7 lletwect-i t-teecllc.

Ь. ýitiгk leaves in paclclecl satir-l

stitch Llliillg есгtt f'lclss ancl #l0

shltгlls t-teeclle.

с. Wklгk сiгсlс,s as cyelets lrsitrg()пс stгап(l clf Поss arrcl #10 shllrpsr-rceclle. @

1}


Amelia Rose DressВу Каri Месса (frоm page 5О)

Shаriпq|.н::"*Каri shows you h"ow she tookher sweet lace-up sundresspattern and made it into апelegant party dress.

What you'll пееd...Pattern

"Amelia Rose"* Lace-Up Sundresspattern f rоm kаrimеаWаY,соm

Trim%-inch-wide velvet riЬЬоп

%-inch-wide silver metallic riььоп8mm crystal bead

Зmm small реаrl beads

NotionsWhimsy SticksTM (ka гi mеаwау.со ml

#9 milliner's needle

* Раttеrп includes аltеrаtiопs to makethe featured dress. Yагdаgеs wiilvary; see раttеrп fоr details.

Houl to mаkе it...PLEATED BODICE OVERLAYАп overlay is simply an additionallауеr of fаЬriс added to the top ofbodice piece and basted in рlасе.Опсе the overlay is added, youcan sew this dress normally.

1. Measure bodice height and cutoverlay fаЫiс 45 inches wide Ьуheight of bodice plus 1 inch.

2. Lay bodice right side up onа pining surface. Сепtеr overlayright side up on bodice and pin at

centers to hold (fic. 1). Fоrm fоurto five Vz-tпсh pleats on each sideof bodice center.

3. То fоrm first pleat, mеаsurе \3/ц

inches frоm center, fold очегlауtoward center forming а И-iпсhpleat. Pin fold of pleat 7< inchfrom сепtеr (frg.2).

4. Pin fold of pleat at top andbottom edges of bodice.

5. Fоrm same size,/spaced pleaton opposite side of bodice сепtеr.

6. Continue forming pleats. Fоrmthrее (sizes 2-3) to fiче (sizes4-6х) pleats on each side of centelPleats should lie side Ьу side withпо space between. Ргеss pleatsand pin overlay to bodice so itсап Ье rеmочеd frоm pinningsurface.

7. Fоrm three %-inch pleats oneach side of bodice backs, pinочегlау flat on sides and form firstp|eat 4И inches frоm back edgeof bodice. Do the same fоr bothsides of back (fig. 3).

Sеш Beautiful осtоЬrNочеmЬеr 2013


FlGURЕ 1

8. Press pleats. Pin overlay alongbodice edges and rеmоче frоmpinning surface.

9. ýrith bodice ý/rопg side up,trim overlay along edges ofbodice and machine-baste to holdusing а 1/ц-iпсh seam allowance.

uIHIMSY TRIMS

Тор edge of bodice is trimmedTrith а rочr of soft чеlчеt loopedtrim.

1. Using the %-inch-wide velyet

riЬЬоп make И-iпсh single 1оорýиhimsу StickSTM trim (see page 73).

2. Machine-baste trim to top edgeof bodice with loops facing downand seam of trim along %-inchseamline (fig. 4). End trim И iпсhfrom bodice backs. sew bodiceпоrmаllу.

WHIMSY STICKSTM PEONIES

Blooming silver peonies аrе madeЬу stacking'ýИhimsy SticksTМ ringsand adding а pretty beaded сепtеr.

FlGURЕ 2

F|GURЕ 4

1. Using %-inch-wide silver ribbon,make 1-inch single loop Vhimsysticksru trim.

Large Peony-Cut trim intonine-loop, seven-loop, and five-loop lengths of trim

Medium Peony-Cut trim intoseven-loop, six-loop, and fiче-loop lengths of trim

Small Peony-Cut trim intofive-loop, and four-loop lengths oftrim

2. Make single loop rings frоm

F|GURЕ з


each piece of cut trim (see nextpage) (photo 1).

3. Hand seý/ gathering stitchesjust above stitching lines оп allrings (photo 2).

рното 2

4. Gather еасh ring, graduatingsizes, so when stacked, each lауеris slightly lаrgег than pгeviotls one.

Gather smallest top ring so thеrе isno lrole at сепtеr (photo 3).

5. Hand tack гiпgs together asshown (photo 4).

FLOWER BEADING

Crystal and реаrl beads surrоuпdeach flower center.

1. Тhrеаd а hand-seмuing needlewith strong thгеаd and knot endstogether so that thread is doubled.

2. Вriпg needle uр at сепtеr offlоwег slightly to one side. Тhrеаd

а crystal onto needle and takeneedle down on opposite sideof сепtеr (photo 5). Sevr throughbead а second time. knot thread.

3. То add реаг1 ring, Ьriпg needleup 1ust outside сепtеr bead.Тhгеаd on enough реаrls to gohalfway around center bead (fotrr-

to-five реаrls). Take needle downоп opposite side of сепtеr bead(photo 6).

4. Tack length of pearls to oneside оf сепtег Ьу stitching очегthrеаd between pearls (photo 7)

5. Repeat, adcling а second lengthof реаrls, and tack оп oppositeside of сепtеr (photo 8).

72 Sеrл Веаutifиi OctoberNovember 2013

SINGLE LOOP TRIM1. ý7ith riЬЬоп right side up,tape end to encl of ýИhimsу Sticklabeled "stагt hеrе" (plroto 9).

рното 9

2. -Wrар гiЬLlоп агоttпd lengtlr ofstick leaving а 1/к- toll-inch spacebetween wгарs (photo 10).

5. Remove tape at end of riЬЬопand slide s/rарs off the "start

hеrе" end of stick. If wгаррiпglong lengths of trim, slide wгарsleaving three to fоur taped ч/,гарs

on stick, Continue wrаррiпgand taping the length of trim.Overlap tape ends when applyingand rеmоче frоm stick whencornpleted.

6. Place taped trim under рrеssеrtbot and sew close to one edgeof wraps rnaking surе you do notsew through tape (photo 13).

7. Remove tape frоm finishedloops unless instructed otherwise(photo 14). HINT: Таре сап Ьеreused seueral times,

SINGLE LOOP RINGS

1, Count desired пumЬеr of loops(see project) and cut at next loop(photo 15).


2. Fold riЬЬоп ends down and pin(you nray hаче to rеmоче а fewmachine stitches) (photo 16).

3. Fоrm riпg, очеrlаррiпg endsaligning riЬЬоп edges as shownphoto 17. Pin to hold,

4. Using teat-away stabilizer, ifneeded, sew as shown in photo18. If using velvet riЬЬоп, cut endsto 1l inch and sear ends to finish.

5. Remove stabilizer and folduпdеr riЬЬоп ends; tack Ьу handог machine (photo 19). Тrimends if пе.а.а. @

ln

рното 10

% . J,шцl ,

3. Pr-rsh WгарS toward Start,

adjusting so ribbons lie side Ьуside and wгарs аге smooth (plroto11). Continue wгаррiпg andSпloothinEa r.lntil епtiге length оГ

stick is сочеrес1. IГ wrарs аге tootight, it is cliffictrlt to 1,еmоче Гrоmstic:k.

рното 11

4. Аррlу tape очеr v/raps on botlrsides of stick (photo 12).

l. .,i]li&ý'

,м*ф

рното 12

SewBeautifuImag.com 7з

Аррliqчёd Heirldom Ghristmas ТrееВу Trisha Smith (fram page 51)

Christlnasmemories аrе like havingtreasured heirlooms in оurhеаrts for а lifetime. create аcherished memory for yourlittle girl Ьу making her аspecial holiday dress. On thisdress, the аррliquёd trее isdecorated with а tatted garlandand then embellished withSwarovski Hot Fix Crystals toadd а little bling, It all comestogether to give the dress anhеirlооm feel.

$lhat you'll пееd...PatternYоur favorite A-line jumper patternАррliquё template оп pullout

centerfold

FabricPink соrdчrоу fоr jumper

1O-inch square of green corduroy fortree

Two 4- х 11-inch pieces of whitefluffy fаЬriс for snow

Scrap of brown fabric fоr tree trunk(Ultrasuede works great)

Trim'l уаrd of tatting

NotionsHot Fiх GunHot Fix Crystals (1,1 pieces)

ThreadLightweight fоr bobbin that matches

garment's backgroundMachine embroidery for appliquб

(grееп, white and brown)Lightweight white fоr sewing оп

tatting, size 60 оr 80

Supplies9- х 12-inch piece of Steam-A-Seam 21O-inch squаrе of tear-away stabilizerGlue Baste-lt for placement of

tattingОреп toe аррliquё footAwl

@ Tbis projбct Was stitched оп а Pfaft 2144sewing machine.

Нош to make it...РRЕРАПING ANDРОSШIОNING АРРШQUf1. Тrасе trее and trunk design onto Steam-A-Seam2 (fig. 1).

2. Cut out each drачrп design ofSteam-A-Seam 2, leaving extraspace around outer edges (fig. 2).

3, Peel away only back 1ауеr ofpaper frоm Steam-A-Steam 2.

4. press trее and trunk fabricpieces to rеmоче пrrinkles.

5. position trее and trunkdesign onto vrrong side of fabric,carefully following соrrесt grainline on the fabric. TIP: Corduroybas а паР - "Pat tbe Вuппу,"sпlootb goes dot1.1п! Fuse Steam-A-Seam 2 in рlасе followingpackage directions.

7. Cut out trее and trunk designsexactly on drаwп lines (fig. 3).

8. Peel away рареr backing fromSteam-A-Seam 2 оп trее andtrunk. Position tree on garmentin desired location and pat inрlасе with уоur hand but do notiron yet. Lift lоwеr center edge oftree and slide top edge of trunkup under tгее fabric and handpress trunk in place,'W'ith irоп,fuse these tý/o pieces in рlасеpermanently (fig. 4).

place tree оп fabric, thenlift lower edge and place

trunk; fuse with irоп

FlGURE 4

.л...л--...,.,.,../ \............ . . ,/ \. . . . .,.,.,.,{1 \:,.,.,.,.,....,/ \../rJl.., . ,,/ \. . . .

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cut out Shapes, leavingextra space around edges

FlGURE 2

опсе used to ws offabric, cut out on lines

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74 Sеш Веаиtiful ОсtоЬеrNшеmЬеr 2013

РRОDUGТ NOTE:Stecm-A-Seam 2Steam-A-Seam 2 is а double-sidedfusible stabilizer. It is slightlysticky and mау Ье re-positioneduntil it has been ironed.

TIP: Altuays usе а Press clotbшЬеп шоrklпg шith aJusible!

ВАSIG АРРtIQUЁTECHNIQUESMachlne Set-Up: Use а bobbinwith lightweight thread thatmatches the background colorof the garment fabric. This willeliminate the need to changebobbin thread for every needlethread соlоr change. Thread themachine with еmЬrоidеrу threadthat matches the аррliquё design.Lоwег the machine's uрреrtension to 3 оr less, цrhich willсаusе the needle thread to pull tothe bottom; this will give а mоrеsatinJooking stitch on top. Usean open toe аррliquё foot andengage needle down option ifачаilаЫе.

Place а piece of tear-a-waystabilizer on the wrопg side ofthe fabric under the аrеа thatwill Ье stitched, As you stitch thedesign, always pivot чrhеп theneedle is on the outside edge ofthe appliquё fabric. Sew fast andmoye the fabric slowly. Whenthe tree has been аррliquёd on(see stitching оrdеr that follows),rеmоче the stabilizer frоm theýrrопg side of the fabric aroundthe outside edges of the tree butdo not remove the stabilizer that'sinside the ftee area. This stabilizerwill help when stitching tatting tothe design lаtеr.

STITGHING APPIIQUЁDEsIGN1. Stitch tree trunk first usingа stretch straight stitch (L=3.0).

Stitch along each outer edge first,Next, stitch а few rows of curvedStitching on actual trunk to adddepth (fig. 5). Pull thread tails towrопg side and tie off.

Stitch tree trunk outer edgefirst, then move toward

middle to add depth

FlGURE 5


2. Satin stitch trее (ýИ=2.5 - 3.0;L=0.35) (Test machine and adjustas needed).

3. Make snow (see directionsbelow), and blanket-stitch ýпо\л/ inplace.

MAKING SNOWStitching together two pieces offabric gives snow а full, fluffyарреагапсе.

1, Тrапsfеr snow design to а plainpiece of рареr, Roughly cut outaround drawn design.

2. Place two pieces of white snowfаЬriс with right sides together,

Where tofnd it...christmas tree

appliquё templatecan Ье fочпd оп thepullout centerfold.

SewBeautifulmag.com

stitch on drаwп line

FlGURЕ 6

3. Place sпочr раttегп on top offabric and pin in place. Stitchоп draý/n line that is on рареr(fig. 6).

4, Trim seam allowance to slightlyless than 1/ц iпсh апd tear awayall paper. Make а small 1-И- to2-inch slit in center back throughопlу one lауеr of fаЬriс,

5. Тirrп riфt side out. Ргеss iffabric will alloтr. Position sпо\л/on garment with cut down nextto fabric. Pin, glue, оr hand-bastesnoýl to gаrmепt. Using whitethread in bobbin and needle,ýtitch, uýing а Ъlапkеt stitch toаррliquё sпочr in place (fig. 7).

EMBELLISHING TREE WITHтАттING1. Start at top of tree and shapetatting onto tree. Flip tatting ateach tuгп. TIP: Use lots of glass-

Shape tatting, draping betweenpoints; steam ргеss, then glue-

baste tatting to trее

F|GURE 8

Ьеаdрiпs, рlасiпg tbent, at апапglе so уоu сап irоп оuеr tЬеm,опсе tattlпg is iп place.

2. Drape tatting in beмeenpoints; do not pull too tight.Steam press over pins using а

рrеss cloth to shape tatting.

3. Rеmоче all pins except pinsat each point and press again.Remove all pins and press again.

4. Put pins back in at each point,Use Glue-Baste-It to attach tattingto tree fabric, removing pins asyou соmе to them (fig, 8).

5. Set machine fоr а zigzag stitcb(V=1.5; L=1.0). Adjust widthand length as needed реr yourmachine. Use an ореп toe footthat will give you good visibiliryand yet hold tatting in place,

6. stitch очеr header thread intatting to sесurе it to trее. As

Zigzag stitchheader thread

of tatting

F|GURE 9

РRОDUGТ NOTE:Glиe-Baste-ItýИhеп gluing tatting in place,Ье sчrе of placernent Ьеfоrеputting glue to fabric. Thisglue washes out but it holdsvery nicely, If you shouldhаче to fepoýition the tattingЬеfоrе ýtitching, the frrm holdof the glue could mаr yourfаЬriс.

you stitch, use а lаrgе awl to helphold tatting doчrn. Gently rеmочеremaining stabilizer frоm wrongside of fabric (fig. 9).

7. Add ornaments using а HotFix Gun and crvstals to decoratet."". @

Тчrп snow right side out,press and place iп position;with white thread, blanket

Stitch SnoW iп place

F|GURE 7

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Mastering Wendy's Madeira Hem Ьу Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening Gown skirtembroidery template

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(м) satlcu|-rh о} х (;) sацсч!- о? - 8 azls(м) sat4cu|-uhg L х (1) sаqэч!- 68 - Z azls(м) satlcu|-uh 0} х (1) satlcu!- 88 - 9 azls(м) satlcu|-uh о} х (l) sачсч!- Z8 - 9 azls(шgЕ х tr) J1,0х Е} Е pFpH lцý.F

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45-inch Silk DupioniSkirt Frопt and BackCut Two:Size 4 - 26-inches (l) х aa-inches (w)Size 5 - 27 % -inches (l) х 44-inches (w)Size б - 29-inches (l) х 44-anches (w)Size 7 - 30 % -inches (l) х 44-inches (w)Size 8 - 3,| %-inches (l) х 44-inches (w)

Skirt Placket -BVz-inch (l) х1 Зh-lпсh (w)

Sleeve Plackets - 61/.-iпсh (l) х 1 З/а-iпсh (w)

Piping bias - 14-inch (l) х 1-inch (w)

54-inch Есrч Silk Оrgапzа

SashesCut two:Size 4 - 36 -inches (l) х 10 7o-inches (w)Size 5 - 37 -inches (l) х 10 %-inches (w)Size б - 38 -inches (l) х 10 %-inches (w)Size 7 - 39 -inches (l) х 10 %-inches (w)Size 8 - 40 -inches (l) х 10 %-inches (w)

Collar Block - 16-inch (l) х 2O-inch (w)

Cut four:lnset Block - 'l2-inch (l) х 7-inch (w)

Cut fочr:Frопt Belt Block- 2{nch (l) х 18-inch (w)

SEW BEAUT|FUL _ цсY SAlLoR DR

ýаý f0. Ctfi Piping: 1 х 1 5' (2,5 х 38dп)

"Sleew Пadet . 1-}t х S1,? {4,4 х 16.ýсm)

-skirl Hacket = 1.34 r &1Е ({,1l 21.Есm}

fM'tЛбhfСчffНрitц:lхlУ{2.5хЗfqп)'Shеw Ha*et= l-il х ЁlЕ Р,4 х 16.ftm),*ý&iil Platet. 1у1 х &ltr ({.{ х 21.6qп}

lNTERFAclt{GШ {l1scm) FUS|BLE l1,ITERFAcll.|G

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ltiSET RE|NFORCtMEtlT 0lMEtlSlфS:2xr (5.1I7,6cm)

иск РисЕI REltfORctHE}lT Dlt$lslo,B:2rY {r'I,1а76п)B0O|CE ВАск lNтЕкдсlNG BIMENýIфS:2х13" (5,1 х33tm)

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NOТЕ: Slеечеs 5 пву ajso Ье ei Ф Srфil gri

i,JO'TE; Sl€еYф 5 mЕ dýo Ь€ Фt Ф staghtgri

sewbeautiful octnov13

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