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Sew Better, Sew Faster:Garment Industry Secrets

1© 2013 Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

What You'll Need

with Janet Pray

SUPPLIES

• Pattern: Islander Sewing Systems Jacket Express #218 (included with class)

• 3–3¾ yards (2.75-3 m) 45"-wide (114 cm-wide)fabric OR 2½–3¼ yards (2.25-3 m) 60"-wide (152 cm-wide) fabric Suitable fabrics: lightweight denim, linen or cotton twill fabrics.

• ¾–1 yard (0.7-1 m) light- to medium-weight fusible interfacing

• All-purpose thread to match jacket fabric• All-purpose thread to match wrong side of jacket

fabric, if different from right side• Topstitching thread to contrast or match jacket

fabric (5 small spools or one large spool) • Eight ¾" (19 mm) buttons or snaps

TOOLS

• Sewing machine• Steam iron• Topstitching needle, size 12, 14, or 16 depending

on your fabric• Fabric shears and/or rotary cutter and mat• Scissors or snips for cutting threads • Marking tools such as chalk wheel or Chakoner,

erasable Pilot FriXion marker or water-soluble pen

OPTIONAL TOOLS

• Serger• Press• Pressing supplies: clapper, point presser, point

turner and seam stick• Sewing machine accessories: Straight-stitch

throat plate, ¼” foot, topstitch foot

SEAM ALLOWANCES

Seam allowances in this pattern range from ¼" (6mm) to 3/8" (9mm). Consult the video lesson for each piece or the pattern booklet for specific seam allowances for each piece.

FABRIC NOTES

Janet demonstrates with 8 oz. denim and 30-weight topstitching thread but recommends that students start with a lighter fabric. Some fabrics mentioned in the class include Echino cotton-linen blends and Kokka cottons, jacketweight cotton from Moda, and fine-wale corduroy.

Quilting cotton is not recommended.

RESOURCES

• Janet Pray’s website: islandersewing.com• Janet’s sewing machine, Jane by Baby Lock, and

serger, Imagine by Baby Lock: babylock.com• ElnaPress 720: elnapress.com/en• Interfacing: fashionsewingsupply.com• Topstitching thread (Gütermann): wawak.com• Wooden pressing tools: angelawolfpatterns.com• Sewing machine cabinets: mykoalastudio.com• Fabrics:

• SuperBuzzy: superbuzzy.com• Moda: unitednotions.com

Supplies & Resources

CONTINUED »

Garment Industry Secrets WhatYou’llNeedwith Janet Pray

Craftsy.com 2© 2013 Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

TECHNIQUES

BurritoThe “burrito” is a term coined by Margaret Islander that describes a sewing industry technique used to clean-finish the ends of the cuff. The name “burrito” was chosen to help the student remember the pro-cedure because “a burrito must have a filling or it is just a tortilla.”

CrimpingA method of easing that allows excess fabric to be stitched to a shorter length without puckering. When performed correctly, it requires no pins, pre-pressing or basting.

TopstitchingFinal stitching applied to the outside of the garment, used for looks and strength. This is a very visible tech-nique and when done accurately will lend a very pro-fessional look. (Sloppy topstitching looks very unpro-fessional.)

TopstitchingaNeedleWidthAwayTopstitching located just a needle’s width away from the edge. A very professional looking finish.

Glossary