sew a knit maxi-dress © 2009 caroline...

2 Sew a Knit Maxi-Dress © 2009 Caroline Critchfield

Sew a Knit Maxi-Dress by carolina fair designs

I decided to make this dress

because I love the long flowing

maxi-dresses worn by celebrities

and skinny young women.

Unfortunately, the ones sold in

stores only look good on

celebrities and skinny young

women. I was inspired to design

my own that would be flattering

on a non-perfect body and hide

various figure flaws. The dress is

form fitting up top with a fairly

modest v-neck. It has a long

tiered skirt with not too much

material in the midsection. It is

designed to be worn with a

layering tee and therefore can be

used most of the year.

Measurements:

Take the following measurements as accurately as

possible - no cheating! You want your dress to fit,

right?

M1) Rib cage - measure around your bra line. This

will be where the waistband of your dress

will go. Now round to the nearest whole

number. If you are an odd number, round

up. __________

M2) Hips - measure around the widest part of

your hips. __________

M3) Rib cage to hips - measure down from your

bra line to the place where you just measured

your hips. __________

You will also need to know:

Bra size__________

Desired length of dress from bra line to hem

_________

The pattern and instructions

contained in this eBook are for

personal use only and may not be

copied or transferred electronically

unless permission is given. Hand-

made garments created by the

purchaser may be sold. U.S. and

international copyright laws apply.

Any questions may be directed to

[email protected].

Thank you for your honesty!

Notions: Fabric: Suitable for knits that are 58-60" wide only. Light to medium weight jersey knit or t-shirt type knit recommended. Fabric yardage is based on desired skirt length 3 yards if your desired length is 40” or

less from bra line to hem 3 1/4 yards if your desired length is 41”-

46” from bra line to hem 1-inch elastic: 1 yard for ribcage measurements of 40 or

less 1 1/8 yards for ribcage measurements up

to 44 Thread Fabric marker or tailors chalk Rotary cutter and mat, or scissors and yardstick

Side note: Not all knit fabric is created equal. You will find smooth, rough, thin, and thick material made from varying amounts of cotton and synthetic fibers. The easiest knit fabric to work with is stable, meaning it lays flat and does not curl at the edges. It also springs back easily after being stretched. This type would be a good choice if you haven’t worked with knits before. When sewing with knit fabric, it is important to keep in mind that the thread won’t stretch the way the fabric will. In order to keep your seams from breaking, it is easiest to use a narrow zig-zag stitch. This is ESPECIALLY necessary as you sew the horizontal seams along the waistband. I do not specify to finish your seams since knit fabric doesn't unravel the way woven fabric does, but if you would like to do so with a serger or zig-zag stitch, you may.

Sew a Knit Maxi-Dress © 2009 Caroline Critchfield 3

Putting the pattern piece together There is only one actual pattern piece for this dress, which is provided for a ribcage measurement of 34 and bra cup size B. This pattern piece is intended for a starting point only. If it fits you, great! Since women come in many shapes and sizes, I will show you how to alter this pattern piece to fit you exactly. The pattern piece has been cut into 6 parts that fit together as shown. There are two lines for adjusting the piece for band size, one line for adjusting for bust size, and one horizontal line for extremely petite or tall. Again, if your ribcage measurement (M1) is 33 or 34 and your bust size is B, just tape the piece together according to the diagram to the right and it is ready. If you need to adjust for ribcage measurement but not bust size, skip the “Adjusting for bust sizes" section on the next page.

height adjustment line


Adjusting for bust sizes A, C, D, or DD Cut out all of the pieces and place them in front of you. Place a large sheet of tissue paper or the white side of some wrapping paper under your pieces if you plan to enlarge the pattern for either bust size or ribcage measurement.

Chart 1 – adjustment for bra cup size

A Overlap 1 1/2 inches

B Do not adjust

C Pull apart 2 inches

D Pull apart 3 1/2 inches

DD Pull apart 4 3/4 inches

Tape pieces 1 and 3 together at the height adjustment line (you will adjust for height last). Then tape pieces 2 and 4 together at the height adjustment line.

Lay them next to each other and place a piece of tape over the shoulder (top) line.

Then carefully adjust the bottom of the pieces according to the measurements in Chart 1. If your bust size measurement is A you will overlap the pieces. If your bust size is C, D, or DD, you will pull the bottom of the pieces apart.


Once you have adjusted the pieces correctly, tape them together or to the piece of paper underneath. Draw a line to smoothly connect the bottom of pieces 3 and 4.

Adjusting for Rib Cage Measurement

Chart 2 – adjustment for ribcage measurement

“ Piece 5 adjustment Piece 6 adjustment

24 Overlap 1 3/4 inches Overlap 3/4 inch

26 Overlap 1 1/4 inches Overlap 3/4 inch

28 Overlap 1 inch Overlap 1/2 inch

30 Overlap 3/4 inch Overlap 1/4 inch

32 Overlap 1/4 inch Overlap 1/4 inch

34 Do not adjust Do not adjust

36 Separate 1/4 inch Separate 1/4 inch

38 Separate 3/4 inch Separate 1/4 inch

40 Separate 1 inch Separate 1/2 inch

42 Separate 1 1/4 inch Separate 3/4 inch

44 Separate 1 3/4 inch Separate 3/4 inch

Overlapping for bust size A Separating for bust size C

Find your measurement in Chart 2. Circle or highlight that row.


Pieces 1, 2, 3, and 4 should be taped together on your workspace. Tape down pieces 5 and 6 either overlapping or parallel to 3 and 4. Examples for overlapping:

Examples for separating:

Whether you are overlapping or separating, the bottoms of 5, 3, 4, and 6 should be lined up in a smooth curve. Tape down.

Overlapping piece (6) 1/2 inch for ribcage measurement of 28.

Overlapping piece (5) 1 inch for ribcage measurement of 28

Separating piece (5) 1 inch for ribcage measurement of 40.

Separating piece (6) 1/2 inch for ribcage measurement of 40.

Overlapping piece (6) 1/2 inch for ribcage measurement of 28


Draw smooth lines to connect the bottom pieces and to tapering lines to connect the top points with the rest of the pattern. Cut on your line to remove excess. Trim bottom to form a smooth curving line.

Finishing the pattern piece If any part of your pattern has been separated, you will need to tape it down well and cut out both layers together, or trace all the way around it and cut out your traced pattern piece from the paper. Be sure to cut out the notches! If your pattern piece was only taped together or overlapped and taped, it is now ready to use! You will need to cut four fabric pieces from this pattern.

Adjusting for height is optional. Since this dress has adjustable straps, altering it for a petite or tall person is not really necessary unless you are extremely short or tall. If you are 5' 2” or less or over 5' 10", you can cut through your tape on the height adjusting line and either separate the pieces 1” or overlap them 1/2 inch.

Enlarged piece

Reduced piece


Figuring the Tiers Before cutting out the skirt, we must calculate the waistband and tiers to make the most flattering fit for you. Fill in this chart as you go:

Chart 3 – Skirt pieces

Piece Cutting Length Cutting Width

(1A) cut 1 6 1/2

(1B) cut 1

(1C) cut 1

(2) cut 2

(3) cut 2

(4) cut 2

Ties – cut 4 30 2 1/2

When you start cutting: Remember to divide the cutting width in 2 if you are measuring and cutting from the fold.

This design features very long ties that can be secured in a bow or a just a knot. If you would like your ties to be shorter, you may cut them any length you wish. I don’t recommend cutting them shorter than 15 inches to ensure that you can still secure the top.


Tier Length (copy to Chart 3) Decide how long you want your dress to be from your bra line to the hem. Use this chart to find suggested cutting lengths for the tier pieces. Circle the column that includes your desired length. Then double check suitability using the formula below.

The length and width of the first tier will make this type of dress flattering on you - or not! Double check that the length of the first tier will fall just below your hip using this formula: If you decide to adjust the length of tier 1, be sure to add or subtract the same amount from pieces (1B) and (1C) since they are the front and back of tier 1. You can then adjust the lengths of the other tiers, or wait until your dress is done and make your final adjustments from the hem.

Desired skirt length

29-30 31-32 33-34 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 43-44 45-46

(1B) 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

(1C) 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

(2) 9 9 1/2 10 10 1/2 11 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13

(3) 9 9 1/2 10 10 1/2 11 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13

(4) 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7

The length of (1B) + 1 = _________ This is the finished length of the first tier. Compare it to M3 (your rib cage to hip measurement on page 2). M3 should be 1-3 inches smaller than (1B) + 1.


Tier Width (copy to Chart 3 as you calculate)

Now you are ready to cut!

Piece (1A) - Waistband front. Refer to the measurements on page 2. The width will be 1/2 your ribcage measurement plus 1/2 inch. M1 / 2 = ________ + 1/2 = _________ This is (1A) cutting width.

Pieces (1B) and (1C) - Tier 1 front and back. The width of the first tier should be your hip width plus 5 or 6. If you have full hips, you dont want too much material here. If you have small hips, feel free to make it more gathered. So calculate: M2 ______ + (5 or 6) = ______. Now divide by 2 = ______ + 1/2 inch = ______. This is (1B) and (1C) cutting width.

Piece (2) - Tier 2. Take the width of the first tier pieces (1B or 1C) and add 5 (6 for ribcage measurements over 36). Width of (1B) ________ + (5 or 6) = ________ This is the cutting width for piece (2).

Piece (3) - Tier 3. Calculate the width by adding 6 (7 for ribcage measurements over 36) to the width of piece (2). Width of (2) __________ + (6 or 7) = ________ This is the cutting width for piece (3).

Piece (4) - Tier 4. Calculate the width by adding 7 (8 for ribcage measurements over 36) to the width of piece (3). Width of piece (3) __________ + (7 or 8) = ________ This is the cutting width for piece (4).


Cutting Turn to your chart on page 9 (you filled it in, right?) and refer to it as you go. Lay out your material and cut out the tier pieces first, then the top and straps. A layout similar to this will work well for most sizes:

Keep in mind that the length of all pieces must be cut along the fabric grainline (the less stretchy way). If this is not followed, your dress will not fit right.

Fabr

ic fo

ld li

ne

Piece (4) cut two on fold line

Piece (3) cut two on fold line

Piece (2) cut two on fold

Pieces (1B) and (1C)

Piece (1A) only one needed

Ties

– fo

ur n

eede

d Cut out your top pattern once, then move it and cut it out again. You should have 4 total.

For pieces (1B) and (1C), open up the fold before cutting one of each.

As you cut out each piece, pin a small piece of paper to it labeled with the piece number. That way there won’t be any confusion later.


General sewing instructions:

Backstitching

Don't forget to backstitch at the start and end of all seams so your stitching won't come out.

Basting To machine baste, set your machine to the longest straight

stitch. Gathering This pattern requires a small amount of gathering in the

bodice, and a lot of gathering in the tiered skirt. For the bodice pieces and the first tier, I usually just reduce the tension and set my machine at the longest straight stitch to sew gathering threads. On tiers 2, 3, and 4, I use the dental floss method of gathering. This can be a handy trick when you need to do a lot of gathering. Just set your machine at the longest and widest zig-zag stitch you have. Sew over a long piece of dental floss as you go. When you are done, you can pull on the floss and it won’t break like regular gathering threads will.

Seam allowances All seam allowances are 1/4", except where noted that they

are 1/2". That is when the material is gathered - at the top and bottom of the waistband and the long edges of the tiers.


Dress Assembly

Step 1. Dress Top

1. Take a strap piece and a top piece

and pin together at the top, right sides together.

2. Stitch this shoulder seam.

3. Repeat for the other three pieces.

Press the seams toward the straps. You now have 4 top pieces with long straps.

4. Pin 2 top pieces together, right sides together. Stitch the long way around from point A to point B pivoting at the strap corners and leaving the bottom edge open.


5. Clip corners, being careful not to cut stitching.

6. Turn right side out.

Tip:

Use a chop-stick or pencil (eraser side) to push strap down into the top and turn it right side out. Then use it to push the corners out so they are nice and crisp.

Press.

7. Finish the bottom edge with a wide zig-zag stitch. Mark the notches with tailor’s chalk if you cant easily see where they are anymore.

8. Sew gathering threads between the notches on each piece.

9. Make a mark 2” from each inside edge at the center front (see pattern piece).


10. Repeat for the other top piece.

11. Lay the two pieces on your table with the straps hanging over the edge toward you.

Overlap the pieces 2, matching the center marks and lining up the edges.

12. Pin and then baste the pieces together. This will now be called your dress top.


Step 2

Attaching the Waistband

1. Fold the waistband (piece 1A) in half and mark the center at the top and the bottom. Then lay it on your table right side up and place the top over it, matching the center marks.

2. Pin from the center to the inside notches. Next start at the edges and pin to the notches. Pull the gathering threads until the top fits the waistband and pin, arranging the gathers evenly.

3. Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Remove pins and check your seam. Then stitch again close to the first seam just to reinforce it.

center markings


4. Lay the top right side down on your ironing board.

Press the seam toward the waistband.

5. Fold the band up, measuring so that the

band is 2 1/2 inches from the top seam to the fold. Press this fold.

6. Turn the top edge under 1/4 to 1/2 inch so that it nicely covers the seam allowance. Pin. Turn the top over and topstitch the band close to the seam, or hand stitch the band to the seam allowance.


Step 3.

Attaching the Front of Tier 1

1. Sew gathering threads in the top of (1B) and pin it to the bottom of the band, right sides together.

NOTE: Push all the gathers toward the center of the fabric so that they start and end at the same place that the gathers start and end on the top. Adjust the gathers evenly, except for the 3-5” on either side, which will lay flat.

2. Stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Remove pins. Stitch again

close to the first seam to reinforce.


Step 4.

Making the Elastic Casing

1. Press the top of piece (1C) down 1/4" towards the wrong side. Stitch close to the edge.

2. Turn down again 2 1/4".

HINT: Measure 2 1/4" from the stitching, not the fold.

Press and pin.

3. Then sew on top of your first line of stitching.

4. Stitch one more line halfway in between the fold and the seam to make 2 casings. I sometimes stick a piece of masking tape on my sewing machine 1 1/8” from my needle to use as a guide.


5. Measure and cut two pieces of elastic that are 1/2 of M1 (your ribcage measurement) minus 4. For example an M1 of 36 would require 2 pieces of elastic that are 14” long.

Use safety pins to insert the elastic

Then pin the ends.

6. Secure the ends of the elastic 1/2 inch from each edge by stitching back and forth over it a few times.

7. Then push the casing back and carefully trim the elastic so that it is hidden 1/4" inside the casing.


Step 5.

Stitching the Front and Back of Tier 1

1. Pin the front and back together at the sides, right sides together. Match the top of the back with the top of the front waistband.

Stitch (1/4” seam allowance).

Reinforce the stitching at the top.

1. Pin the two pieces for tier 2 (piece (2)) together at the short ends.

Stitch.

Step 6.

Attaching the Other Tiers


2. Sew gathering threads along the top of tier 2.

Pin the tier to the bottom of the dress, right sides together, matching the seams and the center of the front and back.

Adjust gathers evenly. Stitch.

3. Repeat Step 6 for tiers 3 and 4.

Step 7

The Hem.

1. Try on dress. Make adjustments to the length, if desired, leaving an extra 3/4" at the bottom for the hem.

2. Press the bottom edge up 1/4".

4. Stitch hem 1/2" from edge on right side.

3. Press it up again 1/2".


Step 8.

Loops (optional)

1. Cut two 2 1/2" squares.

2. Fold one in half, right sides together and stitch the long side.

3. Turn right side out.

Turn so that the seam is running down the middle of the loop.

Fold in half with the seam on the outside and stitch again, using a wide zig-zag to finish the edge at the same time.

4. Turn the seams to the inside and slide over the strap.

Pull it down the strap as far as desired.

The loop may be hand sewn in place or left adjustable.

Repeat for 2nd loop.


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sew a knit maxi-dress © 2009 caroline...

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