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© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. - Unit GH8 - Session 4.

Session 4 GH8Products, equipment and their useand shampooing, conditioning and treatment techniques (Part 1)

Trainer requirements to teach this lesson

For this session you will need the following:

• Handout GH8.3.6 (from Session 3)• Handout GH8.4.1 (2 pages)• Slide GH8.4.1• Handout GH8.4.2 • Activity GH8.4.2 • Handout GH8.4.3• Handout GH8.4.3/4• Handout GH8.4.4• Handout GH8.4.5• Handout GH8.4.6• Handout GH8.4.7• Learner Check Session 4

Trainer notes

This session will cover:

4.1. The range of available shampooing and conditioning products and equipment

The manufacturers’ instructions for their use When and how they are used to treat hair

and scalp conditions4.2. When the shampooing process should be

repeated What may happen if the incorrect

shampooing and conditioning products are used

4.3. When and how rotary and effleurage massage techniques should be used when shampooing different lengths and densities of hair

4.4. When and how effleurage and petrissage massage techniques should be used when conditioning different lengths and densities of hair When and how to apply conditioning products

Session 4 GH8

- Unit GH8 - Session 4. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

4.5 The importance of removing conditioner and excess water at the end of the service and the importance of detangling the hair from point to root and using shampoos and conditioners cost effectively

Aftercare advice for clients – Part 24.6 How to use combs and brushes and correctly

comb the hair from point to root4.7 How often to shampoo, condition and treat

the hair according to the hair and scalp, condition and lifestyle4.8 Products for home use that will benefit the

client and those to avoid and why

Communication

4.9 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients


Session 4 GH8Products, equipment and their useand shampooing, conditioning and treatment techniques

4.1 The range of available shampooing and conditioning products and equipment, the manufacturers’ instructions for their use and when and how they are used to treat hair and scalp conditions

Ref: Handout GH8.4.1 & Slide GH8.4.1

Emphasise to the learners the importance of learning about the range of shampooing and conditioning products that are used in the learners’ individual salons. Explain that they will be unable to give best advice to clients if they don’t know what’s available.

Tell learners that it is also important to learn how to identify common hair and scalp conditions, for example, dry, normal, oily, dandruff affected and product build up on the hair/scalp.

Use the slide to explain the typical symptoms of the various hair and scalp conditions.

Explain about the difference between a dry, flaky scalp and greasy dandruff, explaining that, if a client mistakenly thinks she has dandruff when it is actually a dry scalp and uses a dandruff treatment then the scalp will become even more dry.

Ref: Recap Handout GH8.3.6

This handout indicates when to use shampooing, conditioning and treatment products.

Tell learners that they must always read and follow manufacturers’ instructions to help them choose the best product for the specific condition being treated and for the best way to use products. By doing this they help to ensure best results.

Session 4 GH8


Explain to learners the reason for using electrical equipment to help a conditioning treatment – to open the cuticle to allow faster entry of the conditioner to the cortex.

Identify some of the different types of electrical equipment that may be used during the conditioning process:

• steamer• accelerator• hood dryer.

Explain that all electrical equipment must be safe and that it is their responsibility to make a visual check of the equipment, the plug and the flex before using it. Tell them that they must not use any equipment if they are not sure that it is safe.

State that they must only use equipment for its intended purpose and if they are unsure of how to use it they must read the instructions and/or ask for training in its use.Emphasise that it is unwise to leave unattended a client who is under a piece of equipment that gives off heat.

4.2 When the shampooing process should be repeated and what may happen if the incorrect shampooing and conditioning products are used

Ref: Handout GH8.4.2

Tell the learners that it is usually sufficient to give one or two thorough shampoos to cleanse the scalp and hair but that there are circumstances in which they should repeat the process:

• if the client’s hair is very dirty or greasy• if there is a build-up of products on the hair.

By giving an extra shampoo it ensures that the hair is properly prepared for the next service.


Session 4 GH8Explain that the correct products must be chosen to make sure of achieving the best results. The main reason for choosing the correct shampooing and conditioning product is to ensure that the following can be avoided:

• product does not coat the hair and create a barrier to other materials entering the cortex

• product does not cause irritation to the scalp• product does not cause the hair to become lank.

Tell learners that they must be sure of what service is to follow the shampoo. If they use the wrong product before a perm for example, a conditioning or medicated shampoo, it can create a barrier to the perm solution. State that this may result in damage to the hair because the perm lotion would have to be left on longer for it to develop.

Explain to learners that pre-perm shampoos contain no additives. This means the perm solution can enter the hair. In addition, such shampoos often have a pH value of almost neutral, this prevent any incompatibility problems with the chemicals contained in perming and neutralising products.

Explain that by selecting and using the wrong conditioning treatment the hair or scalp condition could be made worse. Emphasise the importance of checking with a senior member of staff if unsure about suitability of the product.

Ref: Activity GH8.4.2

Issue this activity sheet and ask learners to complete it by following the instructions at the top of the page. There may be variations in the outcomes of the activity depending the amount of autonomy held by the learner.

Encourage the learners to complete the task individually. This will help to identify existing knowledge.

Session 4 GH8


Alternatively, ask learners to complete the handout as a group activity.

Discuss the results as a group activity.


Session 4 GH8Activity GH8.4.2 (Answer guide)

Common shampooing problems/difficulties

Problem/Difficulty Cause How to correct When to refer

The client complains that they must stretch to reach the basin

Incorrect positioning of the chair or the client

Reposition the chair and the client to ensure the client’s comfort

Should not be necessary unless the client still feels uncomfortable then ask for help from a more senior colleague

During the consultation, just before starting the shampoo you notice that the young client has head lice

Infestation of head lice

Client (or parent) should seek advice from a pharmacist – do not shampoo hair

If in doubt, get confirmation from a senior colleague

The client’s clothing becomes wet

Incorrect positioning of client Client lifts head from the basin during the process

Dry clothing using a hand drier being careful not to burn the client’s skin or clothing

Seek help from a senior colleague if the degree of wetting is too great to dry using a hand drier

You have almost completed the conditioning shampoo when the client decides to have a perm

Consultation may not have been thoroughClient may have had a sudden change of mind

Shampoo the hair again using a suitable pre-perm shampooing product

The shampoo enters the client’s eye(s)

Carelessness while shampooing

Gently trickle tepid water into the eye(s) to flush out the shampoo.

If the client’s eye(s) become inflamed seek advice from a senior colleague

Session 4 GH8


Activity GH8.4.2 (Answer guide)

Common shampooing problems/difficulties

Problem/Difficulty Cause How to correct When to refer

The warm water suddenly goes cold

Careless rinsing Take the client back to the basin and rinse thoroughly to ensure complete removal of shampoo

Not necessary to refer

Possible fault with the shower unit

Transfer the client to another basin making sure to prevent her becoming wet during the transfer

Report the fault to the salon owner, manager or senior colleague

At the end of the shampoo you discover that there is still lather at the nape


Session 4 GH84.3 When and how rotary and effleurage

massage techniques should be used when shampooing different lengths and densities of hair

Ref: Recap Handout GH8.3.6

Use as a guide for when to use specific shampoo types.

Ref: Handout GH8.4.3 & Handout GH8.4.3/4

Explain that a good shampoo always includes the use of the correct massage techniques.

Tell learners that they must take into consideration the length and density of the hair when deciding on the techniques to use.

Emphasise that they should use the pads of the fingers when shampooing and not the nails when massaging during a shampoo, as this can cause scratches to the client’s scalp.

Explain each of the massage movements, describing how and why they are used:

Effleurage

• Used to spread products through the hair• A smooth, flowing, stroking movement that does

not tangle long hair• Used to cleanse the lengths of the hair.

You may choose to say the name of this movement and drag out the ‘fleu’ part of the word then link that to the ‘flow’ part of ‘flowing’. This may help some learners to remember the name of the movement.

Session 4 GH8


Rotary

• Small, circular movements used to cleanse the scalp and short hair

• Hands are held in a claw position and the pads of the fingers are used to massage

• If used on long hair learners care must be taken to prevent tangling

• Apply the massage to small areas then use effleurage to minimise the possibility of tangling.

The word ‘rotary’ is usually understood and can be pronounced by most learners.

Most learners will be able to remember the name of this movement, especially if they relate it to friction burns.

Ask learners if they think that any one of the massage movements is more important than the others and, if so, to give their reasons.

All of the massage movements are important in the shampooing process. They all have their purpose and should be chosen according to that purpose.

4.4 When and how effleurage and petrissage massage techniques should be used when conditioning different lengths and densities of hair and when and how to apply conditioning products

Recap. Handout GH8.3.6

Use as a guide for when to use surface, penetrating conditioners and scalp treatments.

Ref: Handout GH8.4.4 & Handout GH8.4.3/4

State to the learners that effleurage is used for the same purpose when shampooing and conditioning – to spread the product through the hair.


Session 4 GH8Stress that it is particularly important to ensure that the conditioner is spread all the way down to the points when the hair is long because the points are usually in more need of treatment than the roots. Explain that the reason for this is that the ends of the hair are old (as hair grows) and are more likely to be damaged.

Tell learners that conditioner can be applied with the hands, using a tint brush and bowl or straight from an applicator designed for that conditioning treatment.

Describe (or demonstrate) to learners how effleurage is applied and performed during a conditioning treatment:

• With the fingers or comb, make a parting from the front hair line down the back of the head. Then make a parting from the centre back across the crown to the middle of the ears.

• Take a small amount of conditioner (on the hands, the tint brush or from the applicator) and apply to this section of hair.

• Repeat with the section on the other side of the centre parting. Work towards the front of the head, taking section sizes that are comfortable to work with, until the whole head is covered.

• Now stroke the conditioner through the full lengths of the hair and massage it at the points by very gently rubbing the ends of the hair between the palms of the hands.

• Sometimes the conditioner can be combed through the hair using a wide toothed comb but effleurage is always performed on the head by using the hands.

Describe (or demonstrate) to learners how petrissage is applied and performed during a conditioning treatment:

This movement is designed to stimulate the blood supply and to loosen a tight scalp.

• The fingers are held in a claw position and the pads of the fingers are circled on the scalp.

Session 4 GH8


• The movement is similar to rotary but the circles are smaller and firmer pressure is used.

• Emphasise that the scalp is moved across the skull, not the fingers moving across the scalp. This also avoids tangles, especially when the hair is long.

• Learners must massage a small area then lift the fingers from the scalp and move to the next area, they must not slide the fingers as this tangles, but at the same time, the massage must not be disjointed, but should flow.

• Tell learners that this movement is often used for a restructuring treatment because the massage increases the local temperature and this helps the product to penetrate.



Explain to learners that, when the conditioning treatment is completed, they must leave the hair ready for the next service. This includes complete removal of excess product and towel drying the hair.

Tell learners to bear in mind that they have just carried out a treatment to help the condition of the hair so they should avoid rough towel drying as this can damage a fragile cuticle and, perhaps, undo a lot of the good done by the treatment.

Learners should be reminded they should pat dry or squeeze the hair in a towel to get rid of the excess water.


Session 4 GH8State that there are two reasons for removing excess water from the hair at the end of the service:

• to prepare the hair for the next service• to avoid discomfort to the client.

Explain that, if they leave excess product in the hair it will make the hair limp and, possibly, dull looking or lank.

Stress that they are not washing out all the good products that they put in (this is a common misconception) but are only removing what the hair cannot use.

Remind learners of their previous learning by asking ‘What is the importance of detangling the hair from point to root?’.

To avoid damage to hair – by stretching the hair or damaging the cuticle.

Using products cost effectively

Explain to learners that wasting products means wasting the finances of a business.

Tell learners that some businesses calculate that a year’s waste is equivalent to the yearly salary of one junior stylist. This means that a job has been lost due to waste.

Stress that it also means that there are less resources available to provide better working conditions, pay rises and longer holidays for existing staff.

It may also mean that staff have to juggle with stock because of shortages.

Tell learners that manufacturers often package shampoos and conditioners in ‘one-shot’ pump dispensers or small bottles and that salon owners/managers put bulk purchases into dispensers.

Session 4 GH8


Emphasise that the measure is a generous quantity (this sells more product) but that hairdressers often use two or more measures on one head. Explain that this is a common example of waste. Say that they can always take more if it is needed but that they can’t put back the extra product that they took.

Ask learners to think of ways of reducing or avoiding waste.

Discuss their suggestions.


comb the hair from point to root


Explain to the learners that many clients are not aware of how to comb and brush their hair without causing damage to the hair.

Say that most clients use styling and finishing products on their hair at home and a build up of products can make it difficult for them brush their hair.

Tell the learners that a hairdresser or barber will demonstrate how the client should brush and comb their own hair so that they can maintain their hair at home without causing any damage.

4.7 How often to shampoo, condition and treat the hair according to the hair and scalp, condition and lifestyle

Ref: Activity GH8.4.7

Ask the learners to complete the activity working independently.


Session 4 GH8There are no guided answers, the responses should be based on the level of product knowledge and work experience each learner has.

Discuss the completed activity together as a group.

Ask the learners to consider and give reasons why a person’s lifestyle can decide how often they will shampoo and condition their hair.

4.8 Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why

Say that recommendations should be based on the products the hairdresser or barber used during the shampooing and conditioning service.

Say that during the service a hairdresser or barber will recommend and demonstrate suitable products to the client to help them look after their hair at home.

Explain that within a range of products, each product will have a unique purpose specific to a hair or scalp condition, for example products suitable for product build up on the hair and scalp.

Ask the learner what could be the consequences of giving the wrong product advice.

Could make an existing hair or scalp condition worse.

If the client is unhappy they will not return to the salon.

Communication


Explain to the learners that by providing advice and recommendations during and after a service, the client will be able to continue at home with the same hair care routine that the salon provided.

Session 4 GH8


Remind learners that giving advice and recommendations should be a continual process throughout service.

Now complete the learner check for Session 4 to check learners understanding


Session 4 GH8Shampoo and condition and treat the hair and scalpLearner Check

Session 4

1 Why should people with a dry, flaky scalp avoid the use of a shampoo for greasy dandruff?

2 What does a restructurant do?

3 How does a steamer help the conditioning process?

4 State one reason why the shampoo process would need to be repeated

5 With reference to shampooing, what may cause a barrier to perm lotion?

6 Is the massage that is a smooth, flowing, stroking movement

a) friction b) effleurage c) petrissage d) rotary

7 What is rotary massage used for?

8 What will happen if you leave excess conditioner in the hair at the end of the service?

9 How should you remove excess water from the hair after a conditioning treatment?

10 Why should waste in the salon be kept to a minimum?

11 When should aftercare advice be given to clients?

1 It will make the scalp more dry.

2 It enters the cortex to make repairs.

3 It wets the hair with warm water to open the cuticle to let the conditioner get into the cortex.

4 If the hair was very dirty. If there was a build-up of product

on the hair.

5 A shampoo with additives – a conditioning or medicated shampoo.

6 b) Effleurage.

7 Rotary massage is used to cleanse the scalp and short hair.

8 The hair will be limp and, possibly, lank.

9 Pat the hair dry or squeeze it in a towel.

10 To save money and avoid a strain on other resources.

11 Should be a continual process throughout the service or treatment.

Session 4 GH8



Session 4 GH8Products, equipment and their use shampooing, conditioning and treatment techniques (Part 1)

Trainer Summary

4.1 The range of available shampooing and conditioning products and equipment, the manufacturers’ instructions for their use and when and how they are used to treat hair and scalp conditions

Remind learners of the:• Range of available shampoos and conditioners

in the salon• Importance or reading manufacturers’

instructions• The equipment available to be used during

conditioning treatments.

4.2 When the shampooing process should be repeated and what may happen if the incorrect shampooing and conditioning products are used

Remind learners when they may have to:• Repeat the shampoo process.

And the:• Consequences of using the wrong shampooing

and conditioning product.

4.3 When and how rotary and effleurage massage techniques should be used when shampooing different lengths and densities of hair

Remind learners how to: • Choose the correct type of massage• Carry out effleurage and when it should be used

for shampooing• Carry out rotary and when it should be used.

Session 4 GH8


4.4 When and how effleurage and petrissage massage techniques should be used when conditioning different lengths and densities of hair and when and how to apply conditioning products

Remind learners how:• Conditioner is applied to the hair/scalp using

hands, bowl and brush or applicator• Carry out effleurage and when it should be used

for conditioning• Carry out petrissage and when it should be used.


Remind learners why they should• Remove excess conditioner• Remove excess water• Detangle the hair from point to root• Use products cost effectively.


comb the hair from point to root

Remind learners of the importance of giving advice to avoid damage to the hair.

4.7 How often to shampoo, condition and treat the hair according to the hair and scalp, condition and lifestyle

Remind learners of the activity content.

4.8 Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why

Remind learners that recommending the wrong products could make a client’s hair and scalp condition worse.


Session 4 GH8Communication


Remind learners that giving advice and recommendations should be a continual process throughout service.

Session 4 GH8


Products, equipment and their use shampooing, conditioning and treatment techniques

Key/Core Skill Opportunities

There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:

• GH8.4.2 The pH value of pre-perm shampoos• GH8.4.2 Results of activity• GH8.4.5 Ways of reducing waste in the salon.• Work safely and hygienically.• GH8.4.7 Activity content

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