service bureaus per country doing short run textile production and products covering fashion,...
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Think differentlyThink differentlyThink new Think new
opportunitiesopportunities
By ann noonanBy ann noonan
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KEY DIGITAL KEY DIGITAL PRINTING OPPORTUNITIES PRINTING OPPORTUNITIES Concepts->design Concepts->design Sample proofing Sample proofing
ProductionProduction
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DESIGN STUDIOSDESIGN STUDIOS
• DIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTH:DIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTH:• Makes it easier for stylists and designers to develop
ideas together.• DIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTHDIGITALLY PRINTED CLOTH• is a significant way for stylists to show and get
commitment from their Merchandising Clients.• DIGITALLY PRINTED MADE UP PRODUCTSDIGITALLY PRINTED MADE UP PRODUCTS• helps to gain market feedback.
• RESULTING IN RESULTING IN • MORE PAID SERVICESMORE PAID SERVICES
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SAMPLE PROOFING - SAMPLE PROOFING - PROFILE CALIBRATIONS PROFILE CALIBRATIONS
• Existing mills use digitally printed samples to save costs. Traditional sample minimum 40,00 € Digital sample minimum 2,00 €• Two areas to calibrate.
• digitally printed sample and production results should be within a similar tolerance
compared to tradional sampling
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DIGITAL PRODUCTION DIGITAL PRODUCTION
• ORDERS QUEUED FOR EFFICIENCY
& CONTINUOUS PRODUCTION. • FLAG INDUSTRY LEADS THE WAY.• SERVICE BUREAUS PER COUNTRY
DOING SHORT RUN TEXTILE PRODUCTION AND PRODUCTS COVERING FASHION, ACCESSORIES,
T-SHIRTS, PROMOTION PRODUCTS, CUSHIONS, BLINDS.....
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FOCUS HARDWAREFOCUS HARDWARE
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INDEX HARDWAREINDEX HARDWARE• MACHINERY clockwise from top left as displayed on former slide:• Robustelli• Mutoh Viper• Roland SJ 740 with integrated textile winders• Reggiani ‘DREAM MACHINE’™• Integrated Mimaki Printer• Note:- Other new printers entering the market
from Konica Minolta, Aiona at higher price – higher speed than Mutoh, Roland and Mimaki.
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DDYYEESS - - PPIIGGMMEENNTTSS
• Depends if ‘open’ or ‘closed’ printer configuration as to whether you can choose your suppliers of dyes & pigments.
• Acid Dyes – silk, wool, polyamide• Reactive Dyes – silk, wool, cotton, linen, viscose• Disperse Dyes – polyester, polyamide• Sublimation Dyes – transfer paper for printing
on to polyester cloths usually• Pigments – untreated and treated cloths • Pretreatments and finishing per type of dye
and fibre.
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RIP SOFTWARERIP SOFTWARE• Import & Transformation of design:• Standards EPS, PS, PDF, TIFF, JPG... • Colour Environments C,Y,M,K; R,G,B; L,A,B• Transformation of ICC tags• Accurate profiles • Repeat, reflect functionality• Re-order functionality• White & black points• ICC Profile to put back into Graphic Station is a nice solution to preview how it will print.• Many digitally printed designs never separated.
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PROFILESPROFILES
• COLOUR IS THE MASTER NOT THE ‘RECIPE’ TO REPRODUCE COLOURS
ACCURATELY OVER DIFFERENT SUBSTRATES,• : WITH DIFFERENT PRINTERS,• : WITH DIFFERENT DYES.• ACCURATE PROFILES GIVE EFFICIENT
WORKFLOW.• ACCURATE PROFILES NEED TO BE MADE
WITH PROFILERS BASED ON PROVEN COLOUR MODELS.
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COLOURCOLOUR THEORYTHEORY
Colour Space is not easy to model. There are inherent errors.
We do not always agree that the colours we are looking at, are the same!
Mathematical models were developed to calculate closer results to how humans view colours.
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SPLITTING OF WHITE SPLITTING OF WHITE
LIGHT LIGHT
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COLOURCOLOUROUR WORLD IS OUR WORLD IS
BOMBARDED WITH LIGHT BOMBARDED WITH LIGHT
• What we see! What we do not see!
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MUNSELLMUNSELL™™
• THE HUMAN CHOICE
• – published 1905
Human emperical
choice.
Difficult to mathematically
reproduce the
colours.
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CIE 1931CIE 1931
• CIELAB 1931
• DIAGRAM
X,Y,Z, are the tri-stimulus points of a colour, which represents the way our eyes see colour using the three types of cones in our eyes
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OUR EYES SEE MORE OUR EYES SEE MORE THAN WE CAN PRINT THAN WE CAN PRINT
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ADDITIVE MIXINGADDITIVE MIXING
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SUBTRACTIVE MIXINGSUBTRACTIVE MIXING
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CIE LAB 1976CIE LAB 1976
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COLOUR ATTRIBUTESCOLOUR ATTRIBUTES
• Colour defined into three elements – Hue– Chroma– Lightness
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LightnessLightness
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CHROMACHROMA
• The term
• SATURATION
• is often used
• instead of chroma
Brightness
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HUEHUE
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TOLERANCE METHOD TO MORE TOLERANCE METHOD TO MORE
CLOSELY MATCH OUR EYES CLOSELY MATCH OUR EYES
• Colour reproducibility is more accurately measured by using the Delta E CMC specification
CMC tolerance System developed by the Colour Measurement Committee of the society of Dyers and
Colorists in Great Britain.
Published in 1988.
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DIAGRAM SHOWING DIAGRAM SHOWING TOLERANCE SYSTEM TOLERANCE SYSTEM
• The yellow is
more spread out.
. Note the difference
in step size
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Different lighting Conditions
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PRINTER INK PRINTER INK SET-UP VARIABLES SET-UP VARIABLES
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TO MAKE A PROFILETO MAKE A PROFILE
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Colour book and Colour book and Printed designPrinted design
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OPTIMISATION OF THE DESIGN OPTIMISATION OF THE DESIGN TO CUSTOMER PROCESSTO CUSTOMER PROCESS
• ARTISTIC CONCEPT • STYLING• TRENDS OF THE SEASON• PRICE POINTS• EVERYTHING IS FUNNELED THROUGH A
TIGHT NETWORK OF EXPECTATIONS.• Digital Printing streamlines this confirmation • & order process.
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Cost JustficationsCost Justfications
• One design -> many ideas • Ideas developed at an hourly rate. Time is costed.• Colorways directly chosen by customer in studio or
for an additional fee by someone from the studio.• Cost to print per metre sample +/- 2,00 € + set-up
cost.• Price to customer per metre 12€ –> 50 € + set-up
fee which is between 50,00 € -> 80,00 €.• Converters show many variations or modifications
to their clients. • The designers gain less money for their designs but
they generate other income streams.
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Summary – Where the Summary – Where the DESIGNER Fits into this DESIGNER Fits into this
digital printing scenario.digital printing scenario.• The European industry concentrates on MARKETING &
DESIGN while MASS PRODUCTION occurs in Asia, Turkey, Eastern Europe, Latin America, & some parts of the African Continent.
• Digitally printed samples gain commitments to orders for ideas and collections, prior to investing in manufacturing.
• Currently there are opportunities for designers to create new incomes. DIGITAL PRINTING is a key to help create multiple paid for services.
• You may need to NEGOTIATE STRONGLY to get a reasonable hourly fee for your work.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
• Societe de l’Eclairage – CIE committee• Society of Dyers & Colorists Great Britain• International Colour Consortium • Epp.Teicher.gr• Coldwater Creek Retailer Outlet• Longina Phillips Studio • Mimikry- Dittus & Ehrath Digital Printing• Gretag Macbeth – Munsell ™• X-RITE Inc.