Asian Social Science; Vol. 12, No. 5; 2016 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025

Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education

208

Searching for Disappeared Ming Dynasty Costume in South Korea Reflection on the Creative Application of Intangible Cultural Heritage

Jiang Yuqiu1,2 1 Donghua University, Shanghai, China 2 Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing, China

Correspondence: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, NO. 2 Yinghua East Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, 100029, China. Tel: 86-10-6428-8191. E-mail:yuqiuj@gmail.com

Received: March 11, 2016 Accepted: April 2, 2016 Online Published: April 19, 2016

doi:10.5539/ass.v12n5p208 URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v12n5p208

Abstract

Based on the research on the diplomatic history of costume between China and South Korea in Ming Dynasty, this paper firstly summarizes the protective policies offered by central and local governments of Korea for projects of intangible cultural heritage in category of traditional dyeing and weaving. Then taking Hansan ramie as example, this thesis sums up different methods of activation and innovative design again for intangible culture of traditional dyeing and weaving in Korea. Finally, thesis concludes the tangible value of intangible heritage in Korea and example value for China, give a suggestion to hope that this feasible method can be used in China.

Keywords: Ming dynasty costume, intangible cultural heritage, South Korea

1. Introduction

South Korea and China are separated only by the ocean, their cultures influenced mutually since ancient time, especially in Ming dynasty (1368-1644) of China, the two countries conducted frequent trading activities of textiles and garments. In 1368, when Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang just established Ming dynasty, he informed neighboring countries of sharing the peace through establishing “principal and subordinate” relationships. At that time, South Korea was named as KORYO, the King Wang Xu responded to the call of the emperor of China proactively. In 1369, he accepted imperial edict (note: imperial letters and seals) issued by the government of Ming dynasty, and asked envoy to send local products (note: local specialty) to express his congratulations to Emperor Zhu Yuanzhan and asked for a title. Afterwards, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhan sent envoy with imperial edict and golden seal to KORYO, appointed Wang Xu as the king of KORYO, and gave high-class garment and textiles, to establish “principal and subordinate relationships. In 1392, KORYO changed its name to JOSEON after obtaining the permission of the government of Ming dynasty. In the subsequent two hundred years, JOSEON paid tributes to Ming dynasty and maintained good relationships, JOSEON asked for the granting of garments for many times, Ming dynasty gave JOSEON preferential treatment, frequently rewarding it with garment to show great courtesy. According to the Ming Shi-lu compiled by the government of Ming dynasty, the granting of garment and textiles was up to over five hundred times. In the 276th year under the reign of Ming dynasty, JOSEON adopted the dressing style and rules of China, following Chinese customs and advocating Chinese garments. Qin Baozhong, an envoy of Ming dynasty, highly praised JOSEON as its “cultures and etiquette was almost same with that of China”.

Unfortunately, Ming dynasty was overthrown by Qing dynasty in 1644, the Manchu ruler carried out the policy of "shaving hair and changing garment" to consolidate his regime, the garments of Ming dynasty were prohibited to dress, many technologies and customs related to making garment disappeared completely in China. But fortunately, JOSEON (1392-1910) survived for another three hundred years after Ming dynasty perished, and its garment still kept same style, pattern and dressing methods as that of Ming dynasty. At present, people of South Korea still wear the garment with the same style as Ming dynasty in folk activities, such as temple worshiping, puberty rite of boys and girls, traditional mask dances, etc. In addition, South Korea vigorously protects the intangible cultural heritage in cultural creative industry, and proactively advances the innovation on the design of traditional textile and apparel, to make intangible cultural heritage create “tangible” value.

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4. Resource Regeneration of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Korean Traditional Dyeing and Weaving as Enlightenment to China

Korea had similar experiences as China. Both countries belong to the circle of Confucius culture and have many similar historical attributes and future topics. For example, both countries possess unique intangible cultural heritages of traditional dyeing and weaving and capacities of deep processing and creative design for products. During the transition period towards to modern times, cultures of both countries suffered great destructions due to external aggressions and internal wars. A large number of intangible cultural heritages lost their original hometowns. However, during a period time after that, citizens of these two countries blindly accept foreign cultures which led to quite low evaluation on their own traditional cultural values and even taking them as objects to make liquidations. Under such a cultural atmosphere, it was once very difficult to preserve and inherit cultural heritages. Intangible cultural heritages were in an endangered situation. It is widely believed by experts from different countries that the economy of cultural industry in 21st century will be on the basis of intellectual property. Cultural content will become the core power for development of information society. A country with powerful culture is able to become a country with powerful economy. China is a great country of cultural heritage with time-honored civilization, which has connaturally potential advantages in aspect of developing cultural industry. Most of all, glorious and splendid skills of Chinese traditional dyeing and weaving and diversified products of dyeing and weaving in various regions all can become dominant projects for promoting cultural consumption.

For recent years, Korean cultural industry has developed rapidly which has not only stimulated the domestic demands of national economy, but has also tremendously promoted the international influence of Korean culture. It can be said that its social and economic benefits “are both gained as fame and wealth”. However compared with China, there are more advantages of protective policies and inheritance ways for intangible culture of traditional dyeing and weaving in Korea.

China is paying more and more attention to cultural construction every year. General Secretary Xi Jinping has emphasized about importance of “Traditional Culture” in his speeches for many times. He said that Chinese traditional culture was the “Root” and “Soul” of our nation. We should insist making the past serve the present and bringing forth the fresh by getting rid of the old theories. And the relationship between inheriting natural culture and creative development should be handled well. The key points are creative transformation and innovative development. In particular, the connotations which still have reference values now and obsolete representation forms should be reformed according to era features and requirements. New representation forms should be endowed and their vitalities should be activated. And meanwhile, there have emerged a lot of national enterprises which reply on traditional craftsmanship of dyeing and weaving, and take creative technologies and original capabilities as their core competitiveness, for example, Excepetion, Useless and Zuczug, etc. Many academies also set up relative courses and majors to train new talents. For instance, in 2014, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology established “Inheritance and Innovation of Chinese National Dresses” as a major direction.

Ming dynasty is the peak time of traditional Chinese garment, not only textile technology such as dyeing, weaving, embroidery, but also the dressing rules and customs are worthy of our attention. Drawing lessons from South Korea’s research on the garment of Ming dynasty, and learning its experience in culture creative industry to develop innovation design of the garment of Ming dynasty is one of the feasible method to integrate Chinese traditional and current garment technology. The successful experience of cultural industry developed by Korea indicates that it is entirely possible for a country with time-honored and rich traditional cultural heritage to achieve a “leap-type” development of cultural industry on platforms of open international market and technology. Now China is in a big environment with “Good Timing, Geographical Convenience and Good Human Relations”. Countless beautiful craftsmanship of Chinese dyeing and weaving is waiting for us to protect, inherit, develop, expand and innovate.

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