seams and stitch classification

Seams and stitch classification

© SOFT Student Handouts, By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune

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Seams and classification

Properties of good seam are,

¥ Smooth fabric joints¥ No Missed or Uneven stitches¥ No damage to the material

being sewn¥ Achievement of strength,

elasticity, Durability, security and comfort

¥ Comfortable while garment is in use

What is Seam?A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.

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SEAM CONSTRUCTION– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes:

Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam)

Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam

Class 3 -Bound seam Class 4 -Channel seam or flat

seamClass 5 -Ornamental seam Class 6 -Turned hem or edge

neatening Class 7 -Edge stitched seam Class 8 -Enclosed seam

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SEAMS DESIGNATION

Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:

0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;

0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,

01 to 99;

0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material

configurations, 01-99.

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• Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component.

• Each component is limited on the same end.

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAMClass 1

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* In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlaid, one on top of the other with raw edges aligned and sewn together at a designated distance from the raw edge, with one or more rows of stitching.* Produce a single or two step operation* most common for apparel production

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1

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PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-Class 1

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* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.

* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.

Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam

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Seams and classification•In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching.* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish


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Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends.

Class 3 Bound seam

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* In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam allowance of one ore more plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching.

* Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace.

Class 3 Bound seam

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Class 3 Bound seam

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Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each other on the same level.

Class 4 Flat or channel seam

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* In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or just slightly overlapped and joined together with stitching that covers the joint. Flat seams do not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing thread quantity.

* Used for: close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie, thermal underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side panels or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk at seams, seaming pelts of fur


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A seam class for decorative sewing on garments. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.

Class 5 Ornamental Seam

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* In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by creating straight or curved lines or a designated design.

* Used for: adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching


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Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening. Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge on one end.

Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening

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•In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the classification.

first, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back.

-second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded.

-third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.


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A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.

Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.

Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam

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Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam

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Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are applied on its edge/s.

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge on two ends.

Class 8 Enclosed Seam

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Class 8 Enclosed Seam

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Stitch and classification

What is stitch?

British standard 3870, defines stitch as: One units of conformationresulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping,Interlooping or passing into or through the fabric or material.

Intralooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formedby the same thread.

Interlooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different thread.

What is Stitch type?A series of recurring stitches of one configuration is defined

as a stitch class or type.

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100 Class StitchesSingle Thread Chainstitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper

101 Class One ThreadBasting, or light

construction

103 Class One ThreadBlindstitch for

Hemming

104 Class One ThreadBlindstitch for

Hemming

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/101cl.htm



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202 Class One ThreadBasting, Tacking or

Repairs

205 Class One ThreadPick Stitch - Topstitching

200 Class StitchesSingle Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread




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301 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies

304 Class Two ThreadZig-Zag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch

315 Class Two Threads"Three Step Zig-Zag;

a stretch lockstitch with more stretch

300 Class StitchesTwo or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread






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401 Class Two ThreadsSeaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch

404 Class Two ThreadsTopstitching or

Seaming with stretch

406 Class Three Threads"Bottom Cover Stitch;

a (greater) stretch chainstitch

400 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and One or More Looper Threads





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501 Class One ThreadOne Needle Overedge

stitch for Serging / "Blanket Stitch"

502 Class Two ThreadOne Needle Overedge

stitch for Serging

503 Class Two Thread

Overedge stitch for Serging with

Crossover on Edge of Fabric

500 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)





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504 Class Three ThreadOveredge stitch for Serging and Light

Seaming

512 Class Four Thread

Mock Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

c 514 Class Four Thread

Overedge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits







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515 Class Four Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens

and Knits

516 Class Five Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens

and Knits





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602 Class Four ThreadCoverStitch or Seaming Knits

605 Class Five ThreadCoverStitch or Butt-

Seams

607 Class Six ThreadWide CoverStitch or

Butt-Seams

600 Class StitchesMulti-Thread Coverstitches





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701 Class One Thread Lockstitch Tacking

700 Class StitchesSingle Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin



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Stitch, Seams and classification

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seams and stitch classification

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