Scientific Measurements on Hair & Scientific Measurements on Hair & SkinSkin

Professional Objective Diagnosis at Professional Objective Diagnosis at All Stages of the TreatmentAll Stages of the Treatment

Diana Khazaka, COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronicDiana Khazaka, COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronicCologne, GermanyCologne, Germany

Beauty Eurasia, June 2007, Istanbul, Türkei

IntroductionIntroductionThe days are over when a dermatologist or the esthetician only looked at the skin to make a diagnosis and to decide about the following treatments and to recommend skin care products to use.

For almost 20 years now there is scientific equipment available to measure different parameters on the skin.

These kind of measurements are already standard for the cosmetic industry to do efficacy testing and claim support in their laboratories and also in dermatological research. Hundreds of studies prove their worldwide use.

In R&D of the cosmetic companies to test the products in each state of the development for its efficacy and to support their claims

In independent testing laboratories to do the final documentation for the different products.

At the point of sale (retail area) to determine the customers skin type and to advice the best suitable products as a strong selling and promotional instrument.

Use of Skin Analysing Methods in the Field of Use of Skin Analysing Methods in the Field of CosmeticsCosmetics

• Hydrolipidic Film of the Skin Hydration Sebum pH-Value• Transepidermal Waterloss (TEWL) • Skin Color: Melanin & Erythema• Elasticity & Biological Age

Overview over Overview over Objective Skin Measurement ParametersObjective Skin Measurement Parameters

• Elasticity & Direction of Fibers• Skin Roughness & Wrinkles• Skin Smoothness • Skin Thickness• Microcirculation• Desquamation • Sebum Production (Qualitative) • Skin Surface Stripping• UV-Spots

Overview over Overview over Objective Skin Measurement ParametersObjective Skin Measurement Parameters

Information on the SkinInformation on the SkinThe Structure of the Skin

Epidermis

Dermis

Subcutis

Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin The Hydrolipidic Film on the Skin SurfaceFunctions:- consists of sebum and moisture- protects the skin from drying out, UV radiation - keeps it supple - prevents the penetration of harmful external substances (e. g. germs) due to the natural acid protection barrier

Stratum Corneum

External Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film

Sun exposure Ambient conditions (temperature and r.H. /

seasons/ climate) Life Style (e.g. sports/ vacation/ food/

smoking and alcohol/ use of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, clothing)

Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin

Internal Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film

Temperature regulation mechanisms Body region Age Sex, race, genetic dispositions Physical exercise and emotional state Biorythm

Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin

Different for each body site, depending on the thickness of the stratum corneum and the number and activity of the sweat glands

The highest on the face and in the palms of the hands

On the extremities however, the hydration is much lower

Highly influenced by temperature and rel. humidity

Hydration of the SkinHydration of the Skin

Moisture Measurement and Skin AgingMoisture Measurement and Skin Aging

The moisture content of the skin surface depend on the ageOf a person. A child’s skin moisture is very low, that of an adult (between the age of 20-40 years) it is its maximum, while a senior’s skin moisture content becomes lower again due to the decreasing storing capacity of the Stratum corneum.

High

Medium

Low

Child Adult Senior

Measurement of Skin HydrationMeasurement of Skin Hydration

Capacitance measurement, worldwide used as the standard quick and easy measurement small penetration depth to make sure to measure in the very first layer of the skin Constant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurements Small measuring head allows measurements on all body sites

Oil/Sebum of the SkinOil/Sebum of the Skin

Sebacceous glands throughout the whole body but mainly in the face (T-zone), on the scalp, and on chest and back

Sebum in

µg/cm²

200

100

10

T-Zone Cheek Chest/Back Hair Arms/Legs

Oil/Sebum of the SkinOil/Sebum of the SkinAlso the sebum content depends on the age of a person. As sebum secretion is controlled by hormones, the skin of a young child is dry whereas the skin of a teenager is oily. With increasing age the sebum content decreases again.

Oily

Normal

Low

Child Teenager Adult Senior

Measurement of Skin OilMeasurement of Skin Oil

Photometrical measurement, worldwide used as the standard Measurement only sensitive to oil not to waterQuick and easy measurementConstant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurementsMeasurements on all body sites, even hair and scalp are possible

Each hydrolipidic film is an individual combination of moisture and sebum. Many customers are not aware of the fact that even though their skin feels oily it can be very dry

(dehydrated at the same time).

Oil +

-

- + Moisture

Very dry skin

Very oily skin

Dehydra-ted skin

Slightly dehydrated skin/low oil

Slightly dehydrated skin

Slightly dehydrated skin/oily

Low oil

Optimal skin

Oily and dehydrated skin

Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin

pH-MeasurementpH-MeasurementThe hydrolipidic film on the skin which consists of moisture and sebum has a certain pH-value of 4.0 to 5.9 (in the acidic range). The pH-value varies for different age, sex and body sites.

Skin PigmentationSkin Pigmentation

The production of melanin is the skin‘s main protection mechanism against harmful UV-radiation. The higher the pigmentation, the better the skin is protected against sunburn. With increasing age pigmentations spots show more.

Easy, quick and economical measurement of evenslightest changes in skin color Quick and easy measurement Constant but low pressure of the probe head providesstable reproducible measurements Small measuring head allows measurements on all body sites

Measurement of Skin Measurement of Skin Pigmentation & RednessPigmentation & Redness

Elasticity & Biological AgingElasticity & Biological Aging

Suction measurement, worldwide used as the standard (skin is drawn into the

aperture of the probe and released again) Measurement of firmness and elasticity, thus providing the biological age of the skinQuick and easy measurementConstant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurementsMeasurements on all body sites

Skin elasticity of a 50 year old (red) Compared to a 20 year old (blue)

The older the skin the less the the firmness (higher amplitude) and less elastic (not returning to the original position after the suction is released.

Elasticity and Firmeness at different skin sites: under the eye (very low) at the temple (low) at the inner forearm (better)

Comparisons of Different Ages & Body SitesComparisons of Different Ages & Body Sites

Elasticity decreases with increasing age

Information on the SkinInformation on the Skin

TEWL-Index-MeasurementTEWL-Index-Measurement

Skin is a barrier for the inside of the body to the outside environment.It is in constant metabolism with the outside by water evaporating through the skin. Whenever even a slight damage happens to this barrier, increased transepidermal waterloss can be found. Thus this is an ideal parameter to quantify the barrier function of the skin.

Skin Temperature MeasurementSkin Temperature Measurement

The temperature of the skin is directly related to its microcirculation. The more circulated the skin is with blood the higher the temperature. Comparing the skin at well circulated areas (e.g. the side of the neck) to other areas (e.g. face or legs) give interesting results.

Camera ImagesCamera Images

with a special UV-light source

Very impressive images of the skin structure, dry skin, lines & wrinkles, desquamation, hair quality, dandruff, pigmentation underneath the surface, etc.

Comparison aged vs. yound skin

Camera Images with special UV-lightCamera Images with special UV-light

Comparison dry vs. normal skin

Craw feet Impurities

Spots/Lentigo

Camera Images with special UV-lightCamera Images with special UV-light

Hair ends

Dandruff Nail

Camera Images with special UV-lightCamera Images with special UV-light

Colored camera imagesColored camera images

Very impressive images the skin structure, spots, pores, lines & wrinkles, hair, rednesses, scars, etc.

Special TapesSpecial TapesTapes to show the sebum production (qualititatively)

and the desquamation (dryness)

of the skin with the adhesive tape

especially well visible with the Visioscope cameras. The oil production can be monitored live in real time.

Full PhotographyFull PhotographyTo look at:Spots on the colored imagePoresLines & wrinkles“UV- like”- image for educational purpose.

Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments with Important Measurements in the Esthetic Fieldwith Important Measurements in the Esthetic Field

measures:sebum on skin & hairmoistureelasticitypigmentation for sun screen recommendationon a scale from 0-99

In addition the camera images can be seen on the built-in monitor.

Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments with Important Measurements in the Esthetic Fieldwith Important Measurements in the Esthetic Field

How to use the Measurement Methods How to use the Measurement Methods in the Esthetic Practicein the Esthetic Practice

Patient anamnesis:- Visual, questionnaire & scientific skin measurements: What is the skin type?

- Which treatments should be done according to the individual skin type?

After the treatment:- Show short term effects- Determine future treatments

Very important: - Put together a set of products for the customer to use at home (cleansing, day care, night care, additional care) for the individual skin type of the patient.

- For the next session check changes in the skin according to the use of products.

- Make the customer a regular customer!

How to use the Measurement Methods How to use the Measurement Methods in the Esthetic Practicein the Esthetic Practice

Benefits for the Customer:Benefits for the Customer:1. Using a unique service and knowing

exactly the actual state of the skin (very impressive and convincing)

2. Seeing the necessity and the efficacy of treatments

3. Advice of a complete care system for their individual skin

4. Feeling well served and are likely becoming regular customer

Thank you for listening and Greetings from Cologne, Germany

www.courage-khazaka.de