1 Photographing the Escadaria Selarón (p135), a moving work of art created by an artist who made the mosaic-covered staircase his life’s work. 2 Watching sunlight play through the dazzling stained-glass windows at the Catedral Metropoli-tana (p136).

3 Surveying the exquisite collection at Museu Chá-cara do Céu (p136).4 Taking in the fine views over Rio and Baía de Gua-nabara from the Parque das Ruínas (p136).

5 Strolling through the picturesque streets of vil-lage-like Santa Teresa.

Neighborhood Top Five

For more detail of this area see Map p250 A

Santa Teresa & LapaSANTA TERESA | LAPA

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Lonely Planet’s Top TipSanta Teresa is fringed by favelas. Be cautious when walking around, and avoid deserted streets. The best time to explore is on Saturday or Sunday when the neighborhood is at its liveliest.

Despite signs of renewal, Lapa still has its share of crime. Take care when strolling around the neigh-borhood, and be mindful of pickpockets on busy week-end nights.

5 Best Places to Eat

¨ Espírito Santa (p138)

¨ Sobrenatural (p138)

¨ Aprazível (p138)

¨ Térèze (p138)

¨ Nova Capela (p137)

For reviews, see p137 A

6 Best Places to Drink

¨ Bar dos Descasados (p139)

¨ Lapa 40 Graus (p141)

¨ Choperia Brazooka (p139)

¨ Leviano Bar (p141)

¨ Antônio’s (p139)

For reviews, see p139 A

3 Best Samba Clubs

¨ Rio Scenarium (p140)

¨ Democráticus (p140)

¨ Carioca da Gema (p141)

For reviews, see p140 A

Explore Santa Teresa & LapaIcons of bohemian Rio, Santa Teresa and Lapa are two rough-and-tumble neighborhoods that have contributed considerably to the city’s artistic and musical heritage. On a hill overlooking the city, Santa Teresa has an im-pressive collection of 19th-century mansions set along winding lanes. Many beautiful colonial homes stretch skyward, their manicured gardens hidden behind ga-bled fences.

Today, Santa Teresa is a buzzword for a vibrant arts scene. Throughout the year, impromptu festivals and street parties fill the air, ranging from maracatu drum-ming along Rua Joaquim Murtinho to live jazz at the Parque das Ruínas, to the annual Portas Abertas event, where dozens of artists open their studios and cover the streets with living installations.

The streets of Lapa lie down the hill from Santa Teresa and south of Cinelândia. Formerly a residential neighborhood of the wealthy, Lapa became a red-light district in the 1930s. Although it is still a derelict area, it’s also one of the music capitals of Brazil. At night, rev-elers from all over the city mingle among its samba clubs and music-filled bars. The music scene has brought some gentrification to the area, including new restaurants and hostels.

Lapa’s landmark aqueduct, Arcos da Lapa, is one of the neighborhood’s most prominent features. Coursing over the 64m-high structure are narrow tracks that once carried the bonde (tram; p136) to and from Santa Teresa. Although out of service at press time, according to gov-ernment officials the bonde will reopen before the 2014 World Cup.

Local Life ¨ Markets Lapa’s excellent Feira do Rio Antigo (p143)

features antiques, crafts, food and live music. ¨ Hangouts Santa Teresa has some fine local haunts,

including the Bar do Gomes (p139) and the Bar do Mineiro (p138).

¨ Shopping Strips The Rua do Lavradio is dotted with antique shops and cafes, plus samba clubs by night.

Getting There & AwaySanta Teresa

¨ Bus Centro (206 & 214) from Carioca metro stationLapa

¨ Bus Leblon, Ipanema & Copacabana (161); Gávea & Jardim Botânico (158 & 161)

¨ Metro Cinelândia

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SANTA TERESA & LApA