Pattern Play

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Add a nautical touch to

your wardrobe by creating

a pair of classic sailor pants.

SAILOR PANTS{ by Ana Jankovic }

Look for a simple pant pattern, such as Vogue 2532.

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S E W N E W S . C O M 37

Supplies7 High-waisted pant pattern with front

& back darts (such as Vogue 2532)7 Fabric & interfacing (amount accord-

ing to pattern envelope, plus 1⁄2 yard)7 Lining fabric scraps7 Eight 1”-diameter buttons7 All-purpose thread & notions

(according to pattern envelope)7 Tissue or pattern paper 7 Rulers: clear flexible & curved7 Removable fabric marker7 Hand sewing needle7 Hand embroidery needle (optional)7 Coordinating embroidery floss

(optional)

PrepareCut out the pattern pieces.

Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern.

Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings.

AlterMark the front pattern upper-edge center. Ignore the front dart. Draw a vertical line extending approximately 7” downward from the upper-edge mark. (The line lower end should be level with the front crotch line when wearing the pants.)

Draw a line at a slight diagonal angle connecting the vertical line lower end to the side-seam edge. This is the pocket upper edge.

Extend the vertical line by approxi-mately 4”, ending level with the front crotch curve. Draw a diagonal line extending from the vertical line end, parallel to the pocket upper-edge line. This is the pocket lower edge.

Trace the front pocket area onto new paper. Measure the front-dart length and width; record. Using the recorded measurements, remove the dart amount from the pocket left edge by drawing a diagonal line connecting the pocket upper edge and left side (1).

To create the front-pocket facing edge, draw a curved L-shaped line 11⁄4” from the pocket left edge and upper pocket line (2).

Trim the pocket area from the front pattern along the vertical line and pocket upper-edge line. Cut out the pocket,

and then cut along the pocket facing line. Label the upper section “pocket fac-ing” and the lower section “pocket” (3).

On the back pattern, mark the center-back 8” below the upper edge. Draw a diagonal line from the side-seam edge to the mark, intersecting the dart lower point. This is the back-yoke lower edge (4).

Cut the back pattern along the dart legs and yoke line. Discard the dart.

Draw a 2”x5” rectangle for the pocket flap pattern. Diagonally trim the pocket-flap lower corners. Center the pocket flap along the back-pattern upper edge, and then mark placement notches on the back pattern (5).

To create the front-facing pattern lower edge, mark the center-front edge

4

5

1

2

3

Dart Height

Dart Width

Crotch

PocketFacing

Pocket

Back

Dart Width

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Pattern Play

approximately 31⁄2” from the upper edge. Draw a line extending from the mark, parallel to the upper edge, and then draw an L-shaped line 11⁄2” from and parallel to the cut pocket edges. Trace the facing pattern onto new paper (6).

To create the front-hip facing pat-tern, copy the pocket facing onto new paper. Mark the side-seam edge at the back yoke lower-edge point. Draw a diagonal line parallel to the lower edge, extending from the mark to the original pocket line. Trim away the lower section. Label the pattern “front-hip facing” (7).

Add 5⁄8” seam allowance to the pat-tern piece new cut edges.

CutFrom the fabric, cut one front pair, one pocket facing pair, one back pair, two side-back yoke pairs, two center-back yoke pairs, four pocket flaps, one front facing on the fold and one front-hip facing pair.

From the lining fabric, cut two pocket pairs.

From the interfacing, cut two side-back yoke pairs, two center-back yoke pairs, four pocket flaps, one front facing on the fold and one front-hip facing pair. Fuse the interfacing pieces to the corresponding fabric pieces.

ConstructSerge- or zigzag-finish all piece edges before construction. Use 5⁄8” seam allowances.

With right sides together, stitch one left side-back yoke to one left center back yoke; press open the seam. Repeat to construct the remaining left back-yoke pieces; this is the left back facing. Repeat to construct the right back yoke and right back facing.

Align two pocket flaps with right sides together; pin. Stitch the sides and lower edge. Trim the seam allowance and then turn the flap to the right side; press. If desired, hand embroider the sides and lower edge using a long running stitch. Repeat to construct the remaining pocket flap.

Position the left pocket flap along the left-back upper edge according to the placement notches; baste. Repeat to baste the right pocket flap to the right-back upper edge.

With right sides together, stitch the left back-yoke lower edge to the left-back upper edge. Repeat to stitch the right back yoke to the right-back upper edge. Press the seams upward (8).

With right sides together, stitch the left front and back legs along the inseam; press open the seam. Repeat to stitch the right inseam.

With right sides together, stitch the crotch seam; press open.

With right sides together, stitch one left-pocket upper edge to the left front-facing lower edge, aligning the side-seam edges. Press the seam to-ward the pocket. Repeat to stitch one right-pocket upper edge to the right front-facing lower edge.

With right sides together, align the front facing with the pant front; pin. Stitch the upper edge. Trim the seam allowance and corners, and then fold the facing toward the wrong side; press. If desired, hand embroider the upper edge using a long running stitch (9). Mark three evenly spaced 11⁄2”-wide horizontal buttonholes along each front-panel inner edge. Stitch the buttonholes through the front and facing layers.

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Pattern Play

8

9

6

7

Front

Front-HipFacing

Facing

3½”

Embroider

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S E W N E W S . C O M 39

With right sides together, position the remaining left pocket over the left pocket facing, aligning the pocket up-per edge with the pocket-facing lower edge. Align the side-seam edges; pin, and then stitch along the pocket upper edge. Press the seams toward the pocket. Repeat to stitch the remaining right-pocket upper edge to the right pocket-facing lower edge (10).

With right sides together, stitch the left front-hip facing to the left-pocket facing along the upper and inner edges. Fold the hip facing toward the wrong side; press. Repeat to stitch the right front-hip facing to the right-pocket facing.

With the right sides facing up, position the pant front over the constructed pockets, aligning the upper- and side-seam edges; pin (11).

Stitch the pocket inner and lower edges, and then serge- or zigzag-finish the pocket seams for additional reinforcement.

Pin the pocket and front-facing inner edges, leaving the pant-front fabric layer free. Hand stitch the pocket and front-facing lower corners together (12).

With right sides together, stitch the pant side seams; press open. Turn the pants right side out.

With right sides together, stitch the back-facing center-back seam; press open.

With right sides together, stitch the left front-hip facing side-seam edge to the back-facing left side-seam edge; press open. Repeat to stitch the right front-hip facing to the back-facing right side-seam edge.

With right sides together, position the constructed waist facing over the pant back and front-pocket facing, aligning the upper edges and side and center-back seams; pin. Stitch the upper edge. Grade the seam allowance, and then fold the facing toward the wrong side; press.

Cut open the buttonholes, and then mark the button placements along each pocket-facing inner edge. Hand stitch a button at each mark.

Mark each pocket-flap center ½” from the lower edge. Hand stitch a button at each mark through all layers.

Slipstitch the front-facing lower edge to the pant front, making sure the stitches aren’t visible on the right side.

Hem the pants according to the pattern guidesheet. Z

SOURCE

Vogue Pattern Company carries 2532: voguepatterns.com.

12

10

11

Stitch

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