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Island HoppingMOZAMBIQUE STYLEBY SARAH KINGDOM

MOZAMBIQUE

Photos: Azura Quilelea & Diamonds Mecufi

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THE QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO rises from the depths of the Indian Ocean and stretches northwards from Pemba to Mozambique’s border with Tanzania. This is a 400km chain

of islands, coral reefs, sand banks, mangroves and rich marine life. Each island in this necklace of gems is different; the powdery white sands of Medjumbe Island, the ancient baobab trees of Quilálea, the mysterious Ibo Island and all the tiny islands in between. The region boasts a remarkable marine diversity. Comprised of rugged coral islands and dramatic volcanic islands all with intermittent stretches of golden beach, create a dramatic and fascinating landscape.

A forty minute fl ight from Pemba is the exquisite Medjumbe Island. The island, a kilometre long and three hundred metres wide, is ringed by vivid white sand beaches and achingly azure water. Sand pipers and pale pink crabs scurried along the beaches. Egrets fi shed on sand banks. Thousands of terns and gulls gather on one end of the island whilst the other end of the island is watched over by an abandoned lighthouse. We fell in love with the food on Medjumbe. Tiny, perfectly formed Portuguese pastéis ne nata (custard tarts) with our coffee at breakfast. Fish, prawns, calamari and lobster for every lunch and dinner. All too soon we had to leave this island paradise, though if we’d stayed any longer we might have weighed too much for

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our tiny plane to take off!Our next port of call was Ibo Island. Ibo is one

of the most ancient settlements in Mozambique, with a history dating back as early as 600AD when Arab merchants set up trading posts here for the age old business of gold, ivory and slaves. Remnants of Arab and Portuguese infl uence can be seen in the local architecture. The island’s quiet streets are lined with dilapidated villas and crumbling, moss-covered buildings. Life on the island is still fairly traditional. There are few cars, people use wells for their water supply, chickens and goats roam the streets.

From Ibo Island we carried on south, this time on a traditional wooden dhow. Dhows have been sailing

these waters for centuries. We clambered aboard, climbed up on the top deck where mattress and cushions awaited us, and headed off through the clear waters. We ate lunch on the top deck as we sailed to our island, feeling like we had the entire ocean to ourselves.

Matemo Island was our next stop and we camped here for the night. A long stretch of sand and clear waters lay before us. Local fi shermen, children and women with traditionally painted faces, passed us with fi sh, octopus and bowls of shell fi sh balanced on their heads. We built a bonfi re on the beach as the sun went down and listened to the sound of the waves breaking on the shore.

The next day’s campsite was on Quirimba Island.

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The snorkelling here was fantastic. Clouds of small fish darted past like shards of coloured glass. We were surrounded by everything from tiny translucent fish to ones sporting every possible configuration of spots, stripes, circles and zigzags. Walking along the beach local fishermen, mending their boats, were happy to attempt conversations with me; them in Portuguese and me in English, with only a few words of Swahili in common.

Leaving Quirimba behind, we sailed to Azura Quilálea, where we said goodbye to our dhow and hello to this ultimate private luxury hideaway. Remote, wild and extraordinarily beautiful, the island manages to combine both luxury with nature. There are ancient baobab trees ranging in age from 1,000 to 3,000 years. The rock pools team with creatures. The island is

also one of the most important sites in the Quirimbas Archipelago for green and hawksbill turtles. House reef, just off the main beach is a paradise for diving and snorkelling. We did several dives here, seeing turtles every time, as well as rays, giant sea cucumbers, clams, a myriad of colourful fish and an array of hard and soft coral.

Departing Quilálea we headed back towards Pemba, the town where our journey had begun. Flying along the coastline, we looked down over tidal pools, white sand beaches and stretches of mangrove. 60km down the coast from Pemba we landed at Diamonds Mecufi. Endless stretches of sand ideal for long beach walks. Warm, clear water was perfect for hours of swimming. Caipirinhas in the beach bar overlooking the ocean as the sun went down. Seafood dinners on our private verandah. Every morning we swam in the ocean at sunrise, watching as pinks, oranges and yellows lit up the sky. We could have stayed here forever.

“We were surrounded by everything from tiny translucent fish to ones sporting every possible configuration of spots, stripes, circles and zigzags.”

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GETTING THEREAIRLINK have fl ights from Johannesburg to Pemba six days a week

WHERE TO STAYWHERE TO STAY Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort

WHERE TO STAY Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort Azura quilalea private island Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort Azura quilalea private island Ibo island lodge (& dhow safaris) Azura quilalea private island Ibo island lodge (& dhow safaris) Ibo island lodge (& dhow safaris) Diamonds mequfi beach resort

WHEN TO GOThe Quirimbas National Park has a sub-humid climate, characterised by a dry and a rainy season. Temperatures range from 20C to 28C throughout the year. Winter months are the best time to visit, between May and September. In the rainy season (January to May) you can expect brief, intense showers. January and February are the hottest months. Diving and snorkelling are good all year round, as is game fi shing. Humpback whale sightings are most common between August and October. Bird watching is best in November and December during the hot, rainy season.