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    09

    INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC CONFERENCE

    20 21 November 2009, GABROVO

    OPTIMIZATION OF DESIGN WORK FLOW

    Danijela PaunovicThe College of Textile-Design, Technology and Management, Belgrade

    Gordana Colovic Maksimovi Nikola, Vesna MariThe College of Textile-Design

    Technology and Management, BelgradeThe College of Textile-Design

    Technology and Management, Belgrade

    Abstract:

    Modern design in conditions of JIT, QRS and LEAN concepts requires an optimal time when designing andredesigning the clothes. On example of sports pantsoptimization is made for time spent on designing, pattern makingand virtual sewing,Theparameters of the textile surfaces which are simulated on sports pants modules provide in ashort time interval unlimited number of variations. Change of fashion trends require flexibility of design work flow, andits optimization in each segment allows for a multiple increase in productivity, as well as the possibility of entering thecontemporary fashion market.

    Keywords:design, pattern making, 3D, optimization

    INTRODUCTION

    Apparel technology has experienced radical

    changes caused by technological development,

    automation of production processes, computer

    applications and the occurrence of competitive

    international garment producers (China, India ...).

    In the production of textiles, which are

    inevitably moved to the east of the country,

    clothing industry still exists as a specific,

    dominant and leading European fashion

    industry (Paris, Milan, Rome ...). In the EU

    there is a clear commitment to achieve

    primacy not released, and a prerequisite for thefull satisfaction of all customers from the

    standpoint of quality clothing products with an

    increasing emphasis on design as an important

    component of quality.

    In the modern fashion industry's most

    successful manufacturers are those that have

    organized professional teams for the design

    and marketing, as dictated by the cycle of

    current fashion and easily introduce new

    fashion designs, thus surprising the

    competition.Design is an interdisciplinary integration of

    art and technology to create products,

    communication and environment in order to

    meet human needs [1]. The influence of

    fashion dictated by fashion designerseverywhere in the world is very important for

    the design of apparel products. Process design

    would not be necessary that there is no need

    for the product and its sale. Without the

    successful design, as important components of

    quality garment products, he would not have

    found its place in the market.

    The research process of creating new

    designs and quality clothing products includes

    determining the actual needs of customers.

    The process of creative designers improve the

    concept of research interest includes design,

    customers and profits and Contemporary

    design tends line geometric form and

    aerodynamic surfaces loaded requirements and

    mass production. This is not the case with the

    fashion industry dictates that a large number of

    different styles and models with unlimited

    structural parameters of the textile surface are

    made of wear. On one side are producers who

    want to achieve greater productivity andstandardization of products, and to

    simultaneously meet the needs of consumers in

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    terms of quality and diversity of products, and

    the other side of the designers that their

    designs and creativity to adapt and substitute

    in the overall product quality. Designers

    flows through activities gradually came to the

    idea of the product and creating products and

    thus they and their ideas materialize. Designcomponents are part of the overall product

    quality, and it is crucial features of creativity

    and overall design activity.

    Design components that participate in the

    research and creation of products can be

    grouped and divided into:

    Research - design,

    Technical - functional,

    Aesthetic,

    Economic and Ergonomic.

    Design, as a thought process involves the

    creation of products and begins with the idea,

    intuition and reason. The reality is complex

    and elaborate structure activities, which

    include:

    Identification of needs,

    The initial concept of how to meet those

    needs,

    Development of initial concept,

    Analysis to determine whether the concept

    and the extent to which meets requirements,

    Preliminary prototype form,

    Construction of forms,

    Implementation of various quality control

    procedures,

    Sale of its value to the consumer,

    Provision of feedback from users.

    Market research should obtain the right

    information on customer satisfaction and their

    reactions to the proposed garments, in order to

    obtain a basis for business in the future, define

    the objectives and strategy of a company.

    Phenomena and laws of modern production

    line - the market must be kept under control.

    The result should produce only those

    products that the customer wants to buy and

    pay. In the apparel you need to satisfy the

    individual tastes of buyers, design and fashiontrends, ensuring individuality, resolve

    questions durability, endurance and comfort,

    because the quality garment creating objects

    based on the successful fashion brand and

    reputation in the market. Permanent changes to

    the modules include creativity creative design

    team.

    Responsiveness to the frequent changes infashion trends (4 seasons) have led to changes

    in marketing philosophy with the

    manufacturers of fashion apparel. Different

    methods of marketing research services to the

    needs and desires of consumers, and creating

    new products with designer names and certain

    establishment fashion brand have become

    imperative for manufacturers of clothing.

    GARMENT PRODUCT DEVELOPMENTFROM THE ASPECT OF INDUSTRIAL

    DESIGN

    Good clothing products from the aspect of

    production and consumption based on the

    creative discipline - design.

    The role of design as a creative discipline

    and as a component of quality product is

    contained in the fact that most products can

    not be created without his action.

    The paper based on the given basic tailored

    women's pants in one day made virtual

    prototypes of new models 8 jeans. We used a

    3D software program Potties Company.

    Figure 1 Virtual collection No1

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    Figure 2 Virtual collection No2

    Creating ideas

    Ideas arise in two ways:

    (1) Due to information coming market

    research, customer needs, or

    (2) A consequence of new technologies.

    Ideas arise as the market s response to

    customer needs clothing products.

    Identification of market needs can then lead tothe development of new technologies and new

    products to meet customer needs. Ideas can be

    conditioned by existing or new technology.

    Various textile materials (water-repellent,

    made with the help of nanotechnology, with

    embedded chips, etc...) or a material that wants

    a buyer or customer model is a source of ideas

    for the development of new apparel products.

    In this way, eliminate stocks of products.

    Product Selection

    All ideas are not accepted as new products.

    They must meet several tests, namely:

    Market potential;

    Financial feasibility and

    Product compatibility.

    Analysis of choice of products can

    sometimes be subjective in nature and basedon limited number information. Therefore, this

    collection is shown in Figure 1 and 2 allow a

    potential buyer of pre-defined desired product.

    Previous product design

    Previous product design actually means

    developing the best design based on the bestnew product idea solution. If the preliminary

    design of the new product is approved, access

    to prototyping or prototypes for the following

    analysis. Often a conflict of interest occurs

    when shaping the product arising from the

    requirements of quality, costs and deadlines,

    and products that should be on the market to

    be competitive. In this case, eliminating the

    time prototyping virtual sewing Figure 3.

    Figure 3 Virtual sewing No1

    Prototyping

    He most commonly made several forms in

    classical prototypes production in the period

    from 7 to 14 days.

    In contemporary design work flowthisprocedure with trained engineers lasts shorter,

    because the "needle" of the whole collection of

    CAD system can do for 1 working day.

    Figure 4 Virtual sewing No2

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    Testing

    Market research usually lasts from 6

    months to two years, and often geographically

    limited (especially related to the

    anthropological characteristics of the target

    group). The purpose of market research new product is to collect quantitative and

    qualitative data on how consumers accept it.

    The qualitative indicators are: particular

    aesthetic, functional and ergonomic features.

    The period of testing before the launch of the

    collection is possible through the virtual

    catalogue.

    The final product design

    The product to be quickly introduced to themarket need to design new products and

    design processes takes place simultaneously.

    INTRODUCING NEW PRODUCTS

    TO MARKET

    Decisions about the management of new

    products are strategic, long-term investment

    and character. The success of the introduction

    of new products depends on several factors:the idea of innovation, exorbitance market

    competition activities. Stages of development

    and introduction of new products are:

    -collection and selection of ideas,

    -evaluation of the concept of products,

    -feasibility studies-business analysis,

    -development of prototype products, test-

    market mass-production

    - preparing bids,

    - launch and commercialization.

    Stages of development of new products are

    mutually dependent in the sense that, if future

    new product does not meet the criteria for

    justification of development at any stage, the

    next phase of not going. Wind acceptance of

    new products depends on:

    -type products, the degree of visibility of

    innovation, and the time of acceptance of

    innovation.

    It is significant to attract as many earlyacceptors, especially those who are influential

    and who follow fashion innovation.

    According to "Vision and Influence"-the

    study of corporate design group of IDC's

    Industrial Design Society of America, came to

    the following results in which the design:

    - Product cost increases by 24%,

    - Increase product sales by 47%,

    - Increase the selling price by 32%.

    The development of the domestic textile

    industry influence fashion and modern design

    apparel products, with a number of difficulties

    such as small production series, numerous

    trends with a variety of colour patterns, non-

    standard size, too short delivery terms,

    fragmented work orders, high quality, little

    preparation time, or low price apparel

    products.

    In garment industry especially in the

    fashion product, theoretically you could if

    your product is different from the others, so he

    just brings additional value to the selected

    market segment. Although company is trying

    to find what the customer wants, we often

    refer to customers as a homogeneous and

    essentially passive crowd. Products are not the

    buyers, the main star (marketing) program, and

    success is measured by sales volume or market

    share.Marketing of our most productive

    organizations, and international organizations

    that placed the technological and ecological

    outdated products (the stores are placed

    tailored clothing products obsolete, with poor

    quality way of making) that should not and can

    not pay, ranging from production.

    Everything is directed to fulfilling the

    business plan - Volume of sales and planned

    participation in a particular market. Over time,

    develop mutual dependence: the customer becomes dependent on the retailer, which

    gives information about the product, parts and

    service, it allows selection of available

    products, and provides satisfactory products in

    the future, the seller depends on the customer

    to buy just its products. Continuous mutual

    relationship brings mutual benefit, particularly

    vendor: cost is the cost-effective to keep

    existing customers, rather than seek new ones.

    The Japanese are such a complete quality

    strategy following concept is actuallyimplemented TQM on marketing - permanent,

    time-unlimited quality improvement:

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    1. No time limit for the return link with

    customers,

    2. No time limit to improve the products,

    3. No time limit for purchase (JIT),

    4. No time limit for the preparation of

    production,

    5. No errors - zero defects.Consumer needs are the focal point in

    business. Marketing tends to be a product

    available in the right place at the right time

    and at a price affordable for the customer.

    While the sale of concentrate to the needs of

    vendors, marketing deals with the needs of the

    customer, the seller needs to your product into

    money, marketing thinking to meet the needs

    and desires of customers through the products.

    PPS must accurately define customer needs

    from the perspective of the customer, not from

    his standpoint.

    The key to maintaining customer

    satisfaction with its product or service, as

    satisfied customers:

    1. Re-buys,

    2. Commendable tells others about the

    product and organization,

    3. Speaks less attention to competing

    brands and their EPP,

    4. Purchase other products from the sameorganization.

    There are great problems in our textile

    industry in connection with the market survey,

    keeping up with competitors, investments in

    its own development, creating original designs

    and scientific approach to the introduction of

    new products to the market. Therefore the first

    step is the survey of consumers, learning the

    facts about the sale and the estimate of fashion

    trends. It is also necessary to establish size and

    consumers' purchasing power, how suitable the

    garments are for our market, to eliminate

    weaknesses in sale channels, distribution and

    promotional activities. [2]

    The coordination of fashion designers'

    solution of ideas, possibilities to prepare

    construction, objective analysis of technical-

    technological possibilities of firms and

    management teams gives a chance to get to the

    strategy that will bring expecting placement

    and sale of goods on a fashion market for along time in merciless competition that exist in

    fashion industry.

    CONCLUSION

    Based on the results and conclusions of

    individual can be stated justification of

    investment in new software packages that

    allow:

    Humane, easier and faster operation.

    Reduce employee fatigue.Increase production of quality garments.

    Reduce delays, errors and failures.

    Shortening the time of making clothes.Reduced cost per unit of product

    In addition to automation of production

    processes and reduce costs in the market

    perceived the advantages of CAD and other

    technologies:

    - Improved flexibility accelerates the

    construction preparation and implementation

    of modular production system.- Reduces the time development of

    technical documentation.

    - Eliminate the need for creating multiple

    models. The process of preparation chronic

    components accelerates accuracy increases of

    work.

    - Reduces the repair and finishing during

    the manufacturing process. Standardize

    products and permanently stored.

    - Increased sales due to shortening delivery

    time.- The labour force is reduced up to 40%.

    - Image of the company is increasing due to

    use of CAD technology.

    - O ptimization of design work flow is thepossibility for success.

    - Application of CAD-systems is also

    contributing to the development of intelligent

    manufacturing process of clothing.

    REFERENCE[1] , ., , ., ., .,

    2007., ,,,

    [2] Paunovi D., olovi G., 2005., Theapplication of swot analysis in designing of

    garments, Meanagament, issue 37, Year X,

    June

    [3] Stylios, G.K., 1995., Intelligent textile and

    garment manufacture, International Jurnal o

    Clothing Science and Tehnology , volume 7,No 4

    [4] www:http//www.optitex.com