Ruda, Jessica (2018)Beneath the Mask Women Wear: A PhenomenologicalAnalysis Investigating Skin Concerns and the Use of Makeup. ManchesterMetropolitan University. (Unpublished)

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Beneath the Mask Women Wear: A Phenomenological Analysis Investigating

Skin Concerns and the Use of Makeup.

Jessica Ruda

Supervised by: Dr. Susanne Langer July 2018

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ABSTRACT

Acne is highly problematic when it is visible on the face and has been found to have detrimental effects on a person’s psychological state. It has been associated with elevated levels of depression, anxiety and lower body satisfaction (Matsuoka et al, 2006; Miller & Cox 1982). Cosmetic camouflage provides an immediate and temporary remedy to the appearance of acne scars, but also the psychological distress caused by concealing an individual’s flaws. The current research aims to address the literature gap by providing a phenomenological understanding of lived experience of skin concerns and the use of makeup. Ethnographic interviewing was conducted with five females. Based on the interview data gathered, Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) was conducted and four themes were generated; makeup and self (1), ritual practice of makeup (2), insecurities and makeup as a camouflage (3), and positive influence of makeup (4). The data showed that acne can cause significant psychological distress and makeup is a coping mechanism providing a mask for women. Ultimately, makeup integrates into women’s self rather than providing an external appearance. The limitations of the research are discussed.

KEY

WORDS:

Acne Camouflage Ethnographic Interviewing

Makeup Qualitative

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Acknowledgements

Above all I would like to thank the individuals who generously shared their

valuable time and experiences for the purpose of this dissertation. To my

friends and family, your support and words of encouragement is what has

allowed me to get through a challenging year. I am especially grateful to my

loving parents, who have supported me both emotionally, financially and

inspired me to follow my dreams. Finally, I would like to express the deepest

appreciation to my dissertation supervisor, Dr. Susanne Langer, for the

guidance and encouragement throughout completing this report. I have been

extremely lucky to be assigned a supervisor who showed such passion and

care about my work – without you I wouldn’t have achieved what I have!

And finally, To the boy who broke my heart, you have reminded me of

my worth. Take a look at what I have achieved.

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Introduction

Body modification is a phenomena that is present across all cultures through the use of cosmetics (Jones & Kramer, 2016). There is a vast range of beauty products in society meeting the individual needs for all women. With a total sales value of £9,379 million in December 2016 (ctpa.org), the cosmetic industry is one of the largest markets in the UK. Cosmetics are products that are consciously used by humans to cleanse or modify the look of the face and the body. They differ significantly in comparison to other forms of body alteration as they do not affect bodily structure or function. Cosmetics can be regarded as an “umbrella term” for a variety of products, that can be divided into 5 sub-categories; fragrances, makeup, skin care, hair care and toiletries. Makeup is widely used by women cross-culturally and can be classed as an example of contemporary art allowing them to express personalities through temporary modes. Cosmetics are used mainly on the face as this is the most visible and identifiable part of a woman’s body (Oumeish, 2001).

Evolution of Makeup and Beauty

The use of makeup can be dated back to centuries with styles undergoing vivid changes through the years. Women throughout the years have not been hesitant to put their health at risk by using makeup substitutes in order to modify their appearance. In some cultures, metals such as, arsenic, lead and mercury were used to give women a pale complexion, which was desirable back in the day. This is contrasting the bronze, sun kissed look that is a dominant fashion trend in modern society. The initial use of makeup can be seen with Egyptian women whom decorated their eyes by darkening their eyelashes with kohl, which is still a popular product present in modern society. From this, it can be noted that makeup is something which is constantly evolving and is influenced by a variety of dimensions.

Beauty and Positive Social Evaluations

Likewise, the concept of beauty is constantly being redefined, and beauty standards are modified in relation to dimensions (Oumeish, 2001). It can be considered as something which is “socially constructed” as there is no absolute definition of what is regarded as beautiful. Often, through a variety of means, society not only dictates what is the “correct” way to apply makeup but also what is perceived as beautiful. For example, in the last year or so there has been a significant increase on beauty gurus on YouTube whom are uploading makeup tutorials instructing on how to achieve makeup looks. Beauty is seen to be central and consistent to a woman’s life where we constantly want to look and feel beautiful. The 21st Century encourages all women to aim to look their best by having clear, healthy skin (Revol et al, 2015) and this is done through marketing messages leading individuals to believe that in order to be beautiful you have to wear makeup and look flawless. Due to a substantial increase in the number of beauty gurus on YouTube, these messages are increasingly being targeted to a younger audience. Thyne et al (2016) asked children between the ages of 6-12 to draw and describe a child who owned/didn’t own makeup. The drawings of a person who owned makeup appeared to be more attractive. Makeup has been found to play an important role in social perceptions (Graham & Jouhar, 1981 Richetin et al, 2007). As humans, we have a tendency to rate attractive individuals more favourably to positive characteristics. This is

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commonly known as “The Halo Effect”. It can be argued that these norms such as this affect makeup consumption by women where they are spending a substantial amount of time and money to look beautiful in order to be positively evaluated. Nevertheless, physical attractiveness has been influential in the work place environment where attractive individuals are perceived to have greater career opportunities (Jackson, 1997) and viewed to be more professional and occupy prestigious jobs (Nietsa-Kayser et al, 2010).

Impact of Acne

Physical attractiveness has a significant influence on success, confidence, happiness and satisfaction in life. Hence, anything damaging to an individual’s appearance can negatively impact on one’s life. Acne is a common skin condition characterised by red pimples, which can trigger physical and emotional scars that persist throughout a patient’s life (Fried & Wechsler, 2006). A women’s face plays a significant role in confidence levels as it is constantly visible. Hence, the impact of acne on emotional states can be more detrimental resulting in body dissatisfaction and a negative self-image (Savin, 1993). Particularly when acne is present on an individual’s face or when it is highly visible (Levy & Emer, 2012). A high volume of research has been conducted investigating the negative impact of acne on a person’s life and has consistently demonstrated that acne can significantly decrease Quality of Life of those whom are affected (Fried & Wechsler; Matsuoka et al, 2006; Levy & Emer, 2012). Individuals suffering from acne have been found to have increased rates of depression, anxiety and lower self-esteem (Fried & Wechsler, 2006; Levy & Emer, 2012).

However, the impact of acne can be influenced by a range of factors and the most crucial factor is age. Frequently, acne is more detrimental to those under the age of 40 (Smithard et al, 2001). After this age, with time women are likely to embrace their imperfections and begin to feel comfortable in their own skin. This explains a shift in approaches to wearing makeup. For example, at a younger age women are likely to use makeup in a heavier manner due to the need for social approval compared to older women.

Furthermore, acne is more profound and problematic in adolescents with over 85% of them being affected (Revol et al, 2015). Adolescence has been identified as a period of vulnerability where they are highly preoccupied with their appearance and are more conscious about how they look. (Revol et al, 2015). Onset of acne in adolescence might add to the emotional and psychological disruptions experienced during this challenging period (Hazarika & Archana, 2016). Teenagers suffering from acne are more likely to have depressive episodes, anxious periods and suicide intentions (Fried & Wechsler, 2006). Additionally, acne impairs social aspects of teenagers and leads them to exclude themselves from social activities; restrict themselves in forming new friendships and reportedly feeling more anxious in social situations (Timms, 2013). Fabbrocini et al (2018) conducted a qualitative study investigating the impact on acne on adolescents. A majority of adolescent women reported their acne impaired their social activities. In particular interacting with strangers was difficult; they believed that people they didn’t know would notice their acne or be judged because of their acne.

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Self-consciousness is drastically related to the amount of makeup women wear and participants recall makeup is a tool which enhances their appearance. Especially in teenagers, it can be interpreted that makeup allows them to overcome anxiety which is faced when makeup isn’t worn and allowing successful participation in social situations (Miller & Cox,1982). When an individual’s acne flares up, participants are less likely to wear makeup and as a result they avoid going to social events (Fabbrocini et al, 2018). Overall, the above highlights the momentous comfort makeup provides in those who are diagnosed with acne. It furthers demonstrates how makeup goes beyond the appearance value and contributes significantly to an individual’s sense of being and it’s positive psychological impact.

Further Reasons Behind Makeup Use

One of the archetypes was a term proposed by Jung (1947) was the “persona”. This is described as a “mask” which is often an outward face we present to others. It serves a social purpose where it allows individuals to integrate within society. As humans, we choose to present ourselves to other people in ways which are deemed to be socially and culturally appropriate (Rudd, 1997). A common way this is achieved is through the use of makeup in females. Makeup is a mechanism used by women to protect themselves by hiding aspects of themselves they are not comfortable with, such as skin problems, and allow them to be involved in society rather than feeling different in comparison to the rest of the population. Additionally, makeup hides aspects of the self that women aren’t comfortable with to gain in order to gain social approval.

Dellinger & Williams (1997) conducted interviews investigating makeup consumption in females in the workplace. Analysis revealed that often makeup became a part of their self. When it wasn’t worn on one occasion, their health was likely to be questioned. In one description, a participant recalled that when makeup wasn’t worn, they were more likely to receive undesirable comments such as “You look tired, you don’t look good”. These comments were then internalised by the individual; thus they were required to wear makeup to avoid these negative comments.

In contrast, other literature has demonstrated that makeup can serve as a positive influence to enhance appearance and increase confidence rather than to conceal insecurities. It allows women to feel more polished (Rudd,1997) and if they feel confident then this is likely to influence their behaviour in a positive manner e.g. be more productive and social (Gentina et al, 2012). Confidence is also simultaneously linked to comfort where women recalled when they applied makeup they felt a sense of security (Rudd, 1997). In interviews conducted with women, they recalled how makeup made them feel good about themselves and in turn brought out a lot of their personality (Gentina et al, 2012).

On the other hand, certain theorists have argued that makeup can serve as an evolutionary purpose (Darwin, 1871), especially in mate selection. In comparison to males, females have a shorter fertile window (Buss, 1988), therefore adopt contemporary mechanisms, such as makeup, to enhance youth and appearance. Not only do humans undergo mate selection, but we have to compete for the best “mate” in order for survival of the fittest. Thus, makeup enables women to express uniqueness to compete with other females and attract the most desirable mating partner.

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The art of wearing makeup becomes a ritual for most women and becomes a major part of their daily routine. Interviews have established that the repetition of makeup application becomes an automatic process and become incorporated in their daily routines (Dellinger & Williams 1997; Gentina et al, 2012). For some women makeup is a part of their self and over a prolonged period of time, makeup provides a physical and social transformation of the self.

A vital aspect of a woman’s life is their appearance, especially the role played by makeup (Oglivie, 2005). Nevertheless, makeup is a topic which is widely disregarded by researchers (Dellinger & Williams, 1997). There are high levels of research which investigate the emotional long-term benefits of medical treatment of acne however, there is very little literature documenting the short-term emotional benefits that makeup can provide (Levy & Emer, 2012).

Overall, the above highlights that for the majority of women makeup goes beyond the skin and serves an internal purpose where it can become integrated in their lives. Because of this, it is essential to understand the further meanings of makeup consumption amongst females, especially in those who have skin concerns.

Present Study

Based upon this, the present study aims to eliminate the gap present in literature and investigates the experiences of individuals who have skin concerns and how they utilise makeup. Qualitative methodology was adopted to examine the lived experiences of women who have skin concerns, how they are shaped by the use of makeup and their overall views on makeup. In addition to this, confidence levels are examined to understand the impact skin concerns can have on women’s lives. Ethnographic interviews were carried out with five participants who had identified themselves as having skin concerns to gain an in-depth knowledge into their experiences and their use of makeup.

Method

Design: The research utilised a qualitative design to understand skin concerns and the use of makeup. Qualitative research can be regarded as exploratory research yielding rich descriptive data allowing the researcher to gain an in-depth subjective knowledge of a particular topic (Howitt, 2016). Qualitative research aims to capture the individual’s perspective (Howitt, 2016) as these are unique. Ethnographic interviews were conducted to understand the daily experiences of skin concerns and the use of makeup. Ethnography is frequently associated with qualitative research and seeks to understand a particular social phenomenon in natural settings by collecting first-hand accounts (Atkinson & Hammersley, 1994). Based on this, interviews were conducted with participants while they were getting ready for their day. Pink (2000) stated ethnography is a process of sense-making therefore this was the most appropriate method to implement to understand lived experiences and individual interpretations of their environment. Ethnographic interviewing differences from standard interviewing because no strict schedules are used and it is more conversation based. However, a brief interview schedule was developed (Appx. 1) Nevertheless, the flexibility of the interview remained as new themes which appeared were followed (Mostmans, 2016) and in certain cases the interview schedule was disregarded. Interviews were recorded on a Dictaphone and lasted between 20-30mins. It was recommended to collect 5 hours of data. In total,

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approximately 2 hours’ worth of data was collected and the information elicited from the participants was sufficient enough to carry out an in-depth analysis.

Participants: Five participants were recruited to take part in an ethnographic interview. This was an appropriate sample size as qualitative research investigates a small number of participants gaining saturated levels of data (Malterud et al, 2016). Furthermore, ethnographic methods explore a topic in high levels of detail with a small number of cases (Atkinson & Hammersley, 1994). In qualitative interviews, the interviewer ensures that potential participants fulfil the required characteristics in order to take part (Howitt, 2016). To be considered as a participant for the present study, all potential participants had to meet a set of criteria; a) female, b) identified themselves as having skin problems at some point in their lives, c) frequent makeup users, d) aged between 18-25. Those who have had extremely traumatic and negative experiences with their skin were asked not to take part. Due to the strict criteria present an opportunity sample was deemed most appropriate. Initially, potential participants received a description of the study and were formally invited to participate via email (Appx. 2).

Ethics: An initial research proposal was submitted and accepted (Appx.3). The research was carried out in relation to the ethical guidelines proposed by the British Psychological Society. All participants received a participant information sheet outlining the study in detail and written consent was requested and provided. As direct quotations from the interview was used, confidentiality wasn’t promised. However, all data remained anonymous and participants were required to provide a pseudonym. As there is a relationship established between participants and the researcher, participation was not coerced and was solely on a voluntary basis. Participants were told they had the right to withdraw up until 31st January 2018. Safeguarding measures were put in place as no personal details were obtained from the participants. If names of any individuals were mentioned during the interview they were censored in the transcripts. There was a possibility for participants to feel embarrassed or upset when talking about their experiences with their skin. To overcome this, participants were made aware that they didn’t have to answer questions they did not feel comfortable with and they should only disclose information which they wished to share. The data collected complied with the Data Collection Act 1998. Computerised versions of transcripts and scanned copies of the consent forms were stored in a password protected file. Any printed versions of data were only accessible to the researcher. Interview recordings on the Dictaphone (and any copies) were deleted after the submission deadline on the 17th April. Once the interviews had been conducted, all participants were debriefed and thanked for their time. All ethics documents are set out at Appx. 4.

Data Analysis: The focus of the research was to gain an insight into the lived experiences of skin concerns in females and the use of makeup. Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) was selected because it aims to analyse lived experiences (Amos, 2016). Furthermore, it is used for understanding under-examined social phenomena (BPS.org) therefore IPA was further suitable for this research as literature surrounding skin concerns and makeup is somewhat limited. IPA has an idiographic focus that aims to understand the nature of the individual and their experiences (Shaw et al, 2014). Guidelines proposed by Smith et al (2009) were followed in analysis. The first step was immersion in data through listening and reading transcripts simultaneously. Secondly, words of importance were highlighted

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and comments were made in the left-hand margin. Following this, emergent themes were identified and noted in the right-hand margin. This process was repeated with all transcripts to allow idiographic engagement. Finally, common themes were selected that were apparent across all interviews and form the basis of this paper.

Analysis

Once transcripts were developed, they were analysed using IPA and four consistent themes emerged. A sample of analysed transcripts are provided in Appx.5.

Makeup and Self

Makeup is embedded into women’s self rather than just providing an external appearance. Participants addressed how makeup styles weren’t fixed. The makeup they wore was subject to change every day. The clothes they wore were often an indicator in the makeup look they decided to do.

“Because makeup is kind of like the things you wear…I think your makeup has to compliment your outfit” (Megan, Line 173;175-176).

The above indicates that makeup and outfits merge together as one and as whole can demonstrate the self and individuality. Kim spoke about maintaining coordination between both aspects by the colours she wore (Line 6).

Goffman (1956) proposed a dramaturgical approach where the presentation of the self-changes depending on the situation we find ourselves in due to the different roles we need to fulfil. This was labelled as impression management where through the use of different props, such as makeup, women are engaging in self-presentation to reflect audience expectations.

Daytime makeup was kept natural and minimal whereas makeup for the evening was intensified.

“… during the day I will go for a more natural look… I will wear more neutral colours on my eyes and most of the time I tend to avoid shimmer and dark/intense colours… If I was going out in the nighttime such as clubbing I will go intense with my makeup and there will be lashes… stacks of lashes” (Kim, Line 25-31).

“If I was going on a night out… I would want to wear something really dramatic and like add false lashes…really intense makeup” (Alice, Line 10-11)

When questioned about the reasoning of makeup adjustment, it was explained in terms of social aspects.

“I think it’s just like…erm…more socially acceptable…you can go out in the daytime with a bold smokey eye but you’re more to get looked at by other people…but on a night out everyone can gets a bit more dressed up, makes more of an effort” (Natalie, Line 25-29)

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“ … if I was going somewhere like a job interview for example I’d wear something really casual as it isn’t appropriate to wear heavy makeup…” (Alice, Line 12-14).

Makeup is not only part of the self as whole but the self in relation to wider cultural aspects. The analysis above demonstrates how there are a set of guidelines which are culturally dependant and are subconsciously followed by individuals in makeup application. These guidelines inform individuals on what kind and amount of makeup to wear based on what is deemed as appropriate in certain situations. (Gentina et al, 2012). If these guidelines aren’t followed, individuals may be more likely to be judged in a negative way for the lack of obedience. This further demonstrates how even though makeup is an expression of the self, there are still standards that need to be met for certain situations.

Ritual practice of Makeup

A significant concern of those who have acne is their appearance (Magin et al, 2006) hence for women, makeup is a mundane and repetitive task. As with spatial occupation, temporality is an essential criterion in makeup use.

“First of all depends if I have time. Erm so the earlier I am in Uni the less likely I am to wear it [makeup]” (Megan, Line 149-150)

“…I just don’t have the time like…what’s the point in wasting time to do makeup to just go to the supermarket…I ain’t got time for that” (Natalie, Line 180-182)

Makeup is an essential part of a woman’s life requiring a significant amount of time and effort. This meant women incorporated makeup application into their daily routine further indicating how makeup is an essential part of self.

“I go through stages where I am wanting to wear my makeup all the time…then I’ll have a routine where I’ll always do my makeup in the morning” (Alice, Line 121-122)

“… doing my makeup is just a part of my day to be honest. I fit it into my routine every day and I hardly even have to think about it…it just becomes repetitive and automatic” (Natalie, Line 142-143;149)

Similar to Gentina et al (2012), participants stated how they followed a very precise sequence with respect to application of their makeup.

“…because I know my routine I do the same thing every single day” (Natalie, Line 130-131).

It can be inferred makeup became a ritual for them which women consistently followed. Even though there was a change in makeup styles, the routine was similar. Although makeup application is a time-consuming task, women are committed to doing their makeup demonstrating how it is a non-negotiable task.

Furthermore, women recognised and hope that their acne was a temporary aspect, which was associated with puberty and would pass with time. This also provided a

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sense of comfort because they were aware that those around them were sharing similar experiences. This provided the self with a social network whom they could relate to.

“Because as a teenager they all kind of had each other to talk about their problems (Megan, Line 77)

“When like puberty was happening in year 9 I started to get spots. At the time when I was in year 9 I didn’t really care because it was happening to everyone” (Natalie, Line 49-51).

In contrast, Megan was diagnosed with adult acne causing her to fall out of sync with time.

“I’d be like ‘oh I am having a really bad skin day’ and they wouldn’t know what to say because they had past it. Their idea of spots and bad skin were very different to my adult acne.” (Line 60-63).

Adult acne impacted on Megan’s interpersonal relationships as she put up a barrier between her and her friends (Line 64;107-109). Megan avoided opening up to her friends because she felt that her companions wouldn’t understand her emotional distress as although they went through similar experiences, it was at a different time period. The interview excerpts demonstrate how time periods can provide a coping mechanism, especially when people are around other individuals are going through the same thing. Research has found that 70% of adolescents talk to their friend about skin problems as they were sharing similar experiences (Smithard et al, 2001). This provides a network of people to relate to. When the self is out of sync with others, it can raise issues with confidence and coping as individuals may not feel integrated within their broader social network. This can then negatively affect their psychological state.

Insecurities and Makeup as a Camouflage

Acne has been acknowledged to have a detrimental effect on individual’s emotional wellbeing especially their confidence and self-esteem (Fabbrocini et al, 2018). Initially, participants stated how their flaws were psychologically heightened to them. Resulting in the attitudes towards their self and their skin concerns to be negative. Often insecurities developed as a result of comparisons with other people; who had clear, flawless skins (Alice, Line 49-51) and this shaped women’s insecurities they experienced.

“I was in mid high school I began to notice them [spots] a lot more; I was self-conscious about them like I felt people noticed it a lot more or in my head it was like “Yeah your acne is so bad and that’s what everyone notices about you” (Poppy, Line 39-40;45-47)

“I feel like I notice it more on myself…like for instance I’ll ask my mum like ‘Mum does it look really bad...my skin?’ and she was like ‘I can’t really see anything, it just looks like freckles’ but to me I could see it, it stood out to me…like it’s your own body and you’re constantly aware of your flaws’ (Alice, Line 149-152)

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Women’s imperfections played a significant part in their interactions with others. Women emerged as more restrictive in terms of acts they wanted to engage in. Interacting with strangers is difficult and something that individuals often avoid. This is because individuals believe their acne is something which others notice about them (Fabbrocini et al, 2018).

“I didn’t wanna look at people let alone talk to them. I tried to avoid speaking to people unless I really needed too… I think that’s one of the reasons why I stayed quiet in school… I didn’t want anyone to talk to me” (Alice, Line 139-142)

“If I had one really big spot on one side of my face, I’d only speak on the other side. I’d constantly try to conceal it. (Natalie, Line 116-117)

In the interview with Alice, she highlighted her experiences with body acne.

“…when it’s on your body you have to hide certain parts and can’t wear certain types of tops, dresses...like on NYE I was looking for a dress which would cover me up because I was really paranoid and self-conscious.” (Alice, Line 35-38)

Truncal acne is a form of acne which impacts on the whole body, especially the back. Alice recalled her experiences with truncal acne and how living with acne impacted on the clothes she wore. In her experiences, she consciously avoided clothes which revealed part of her body that were affected (Haziaka & Archana, 2016).

Likewise, acne goes beyond the external appearance but can cause damage internally. Due to their insecurities, women used makeup as a camouflage mechanism.

“I’d put foundation on top and then you wouldn’t even notice the bumps. It was a case of cover everything up” (Natalie, Line 81-82)

“I saw how makeup covered up my skin problems and I liked how it provided a short-term relief; it was something I used to cover up my imperfections” (Poppy, Line 41-42; 53)

“Just covers it up for me and gives me a different face to present to people and hide my insecurities” (Alice, Line 91-92)

The above validates the idea that makeup can provide women with a mask. Furthermore, makeup can also be seen as a mechanism that women use to present their sense of self allowing social involvement.

Similar to Fabbrocini et al (2018) participants were consciously aware about how constant makeup use was damaging to their skin.

“It wasn’t doing my skin any good. It was doing the opposite…like clogging my pores and stuff” (Poppy, Line 59-60)

It is also important to note the continuity of their skin problems, which are still present, but the attitudes towards them have changed.

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“As I got older I learnt to get confident in my skin and yeah I learnt to embrace my imperfections because they aren’t something that defines me as a person. I mean you just don’t forget they are there…like there are reminders, especially when you look in the mirror but I think it’s the approach you adopt”

(Poppy, Line 60-64)

Positive Influence of Makeup

As time progressed, all women recalled a change in their relationship with makeup. Previously, makeup was a tool to conceal imperfections whereas now it is a tool to enhance appearance and confidence.

“I consider myself to have a pretty good and positive relationship with makeup where before it wasn’t. In my opinion makeup is something with enhances what I naturally have” (Megan, Line 230-232)

“…makeup definitely makes me feel a lot more confident than when I don’t wear makeup. You feel a lot more at ease when you’re talking to people you don’t know when you have makeup on” (Poppy, Line 73-75)

Makeup can be associated with productivity where when makeup is worn; women are open to new experiences (Rudd, 1997). Furthermore, Kim stated how for her makeup provided her with an illusion:

“I’ll be walking around as if I’m Beyoncé; when I do have a full face of makeup on I feel like I can own the world! For me it’s just a positive feeling putting makeup on. It’s obviously a mental thing. It doesn’t actually make you take on the world but it’s the way it makes you feel.” (Kim, Line 140-142)

Women stated they utilised makeup in an art form, allowing them to express and emphasise their individuality (Natalie, Line 248-249). By viewing makeup as art, participants recalled how they experimented with makeup to achieve a variety of different looks.

“I will get my eyeshadow palettes out and think what colours should I have on today…I think it’s fun because you can try out different looks” (Alice, Line 189-190)

In a postmodern society, individuals are able to express who they want to be and identities are often discovered through a variety of means, such as, clothes and makeup. The process of constructing an identity is sold to us to be fun and pleasurable (Bauman, 2007) but can often create a new level of uncertainty as there is a constant battle between being who we want to be and our true self.

In the last few years, beauty professionals have been on the rise on social media, especially YouTube. They frequently upload step-by-step video tutorials on how to achieve makeup looks. Participants recalled how this had a positive impact as it created a makeup community for them to relate to.

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“It’s a bit of culture. Seeing all that makes you want to get involved and I want to love makeup because of the fun of it rather than it hiding something” (Megan, Line 185-186)

“…especially with the social media being prevalent like you can always see that the trends are, what everyone else is doing and I think that’s great” (Kim, Line 188-189)

Makeup can have a positive influence on the self and provides a network for an individual to engage in. Building a community on social media allows the self to create a deeper connection with others and provides an indirect way to integrate into the wider culture. Even though makeup allows the expression of individuality, the consistent updates of makeup trends on social media platforms provides a set of guidelines and standard for women to follow. This further provides evidence of how not only does makeup provide the individuals self with a sense of wellbeing but also incorporates the self in a wider network.

Discussion

Due to the lack of qualitative research surrounding this topic, the study provides an in-depth understanding on the use of makeup in those who have skin concerns. As expected, acne negatively impacts on a woman’s appearance which can cause significant psychological distress to individual suffering such as higher rates of depression (Levy and Emer, 2012) and severe body dissatisfaction (Matsuoka et al, 2006). As a result, individuals use makeup as a camouflage mechanism to conceal their insecurities. Makeup acts as a temporary mechanism providing women with immediate satisfaction which permits integration in wider social events (Timms, 2013). However, the results demonstrate time is a vital aspect in managing acne. Through time women became more accepting towards their acne and often developed positive views. This then changed the relationship they had with makeup where it was something used to enhance what they already have rather than to cover up their flaws. As females get older, they use makeup primarily for themselves and the confidence it gives them rather than to impress other people (Rudd, 1997) because the need for social approval is less apparent. Similar to what current research has found, the initial use of makeup begins around adolescence which has been recognised a period of vulnerability, hence the increased pre-occupation with their appearance (Revol et al, 2015). Not only did participants report more satisfaction with their faces when wearing makeup, but an increase in overall body appearance was determined. The use of makeup is influenced by role model in their family especially their mothers. Furthermore, interviews with women revealed how through continuous use of makeup it became a significant part of the self and provided a sense of wellbeing, especially through adolescence (Gentina et al, 2012).

The use of makeup is a learned practice that continuously changes over the time lifetime and often begins around adolescent years (Fabricant & Gould, 1993). Occupation with appearance is embedded in the socialisation process from a young age where messages are being transferred to children that in order to be perceived as good you have to be viewed as beautiful (Thyne et al, 2016). These values are adopted in institutions, such as the workplace, where attractive people associated with positive traits but also uphold more prestigious jobs and higher positions (Nietsa-Kaysar et al, 2010). Hence, women believe that in order to be successful,

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you have to look beautiful and one way in which this is achieved is through makeup consumption. Due to the substantial increase in social media, these messages are increasingly being targeted at young adolescents therefore makeup consumption is starting at a younger age. Alternatively, the rise in social media contributes positively to an individual’s well-being by providing a community which they can relate to. Moreover, social media has created immense platform for women to keep up to date with the prominent makeup trends in society. Nevertheless, the attitudes towards makeup could be something which is transmitted through the family. This is an area that upcoming research should consider.

Understanding the psychological impact acne causes suggests dermatologists should be aware of the psychosocial effect acne can have on an individual. The possible use of psychological therapies could eliminate the distress that is caused by skin problems in general. Alongside the present study, a high volume of quantitative research has found acne to affect confidence levels and be associated with lower quality of life (Smithard et al, 2001), increased levels of depression, anxiety and body dissatisfaction (Levy and Emer, 2011). Therefore, it is important for dermatologists to acknowledge and address psychological distress as well administrating pharmacological treatment to treat acne. As mentioned previously, there is an insufficient amount of evidence investigating the impact of acne and makeup use, especially from a qualitative stance. This suggests that there is a need for further qualitative inquiry around the research topic to develop a broad understanding.

As with any research conducted, there are limitations which open opportunities for future research. Ethnographic interviewing focuses on a small number of cases and in the study a gynocentric sample was used. Thus, the knowledge provided on skin concerns and use of makeup in females cannot be generalised to wider population so further research should be conducted with a wider sample. Likewise, acne can impact on males psychological functioning therefore further research would be beneficial to understanding the psychological distress caused by acne and coping in males. This study only focused on the impact of acne and how makeup is utilised, other skin concerns may produce different outcomes. One obvious path to examine is the replication of findings in other cultures. A comparison of findings between different cultures would help determine if the psychological impacts of acne are consistent amongst other cultures but also establish potential differences in makeup consumption. The research discovered the impact body acne on an individual’s confidence and how coping with body acne was different in comparison to facial acne. This finding was not anticipated and therefore creates a new avenue for upcoming research to follow and investigate whether body acne has a comparable effect on psychological functioning.

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Reflexive Analysis

Adopting a qualitative methodological approach, researchers must acknowledge how their subjectivity could influence data collection process and data analysis (Finlay, 2002). The researcher was a female who had a personal interest in makeup consumption and was passionate about understanding makeup use in those who have been affected by skin concerns. Because the research has a positive relationship with makeup, they was keen to understand whether similar patterns were observed amongst females with different experiences. The research topic was chosen because of research conducted for a previous assignment by the researcher themselves. Therefore, this provided a solid knowledge of the research topic which assisted in interpretation of the data to find prevalent themes. By previously conducting research around a similar topic, the researcher expected to find definite themes. However, the researcher was presented with topics from participants that weren’t anticipated. Nevertheless, the researcher took a neutral perspective when analysing transcripts. There was a mutual relationship present between the participants and the researcher. As a result, a rapport was quickly built up which potentially allowed the participants to feel comfortable leading to participants disclosing sensitive and personal information. However, the researcher was aware that by a relationship having been established, this could have influenced the responses received. As the researcher was an Undergraduate Psychology student, they had a strong knowledge of ethnographic interviewing.

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