rolex oyster perpetual explorer 39 mm reference 214270 – an improved incarnation (abridged...

7/29/2019 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 39 mm Reference 214270 An Improved Incarnation (Abridged Version)

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 39 mm Reference 214270 An Improved

Incarnation

By Meor Amri Meor Ayob

Photos from the authors personal collection

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Recently I acquired my third professional Rolex Oyster piece, the Explorer 39 mm Reference

214270. With this acquisition, I have 3 of possible 6 Cyclops-less Rolex professional models in

my collection.

For high-end watches, I go to an authorized dealer to get it. Although it would be cheaper to

source it from other channels or even get a second-hand piece, I dont mind paying the

premium because that is also part of the experience of owning such a watch in my opinion.

Got a great deal from my long term authorized dealer and in a few short moments, I am a

proud owner of an Explorer I. The watch box is a standard square box with a white protective

cardboard box surrounding it. Nothing on it at all that would indicate it is a Rolex.

Figure 1

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/ii604/meoramri/Watch%20Collection/

Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%202142

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Figure 2




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Figure 3




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Taking it off, you will now find the familiar Rolex watch box with the famous Rolex crown at the

top of the box. Taking this second box off, you will find an equally familiar green Rolex box.

Honestly, this is the part which depresses me slightly. As I do own a number of watches from

many brands, I still think Rolex could have done better when it comes to the watch boxes. For

such a premium brand, the quality and design looks second class. Hopefully, in the near future,

Rolex will introduce a more premium watch box for their watch owners.
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Meanwhile, the dark dial on the light creamy watch bed provides a good contrast to the watch.

The box comes with the watch (of course), the seal, a wipe cloth as well as the necessary

documentation such as the guarantee card, the COSC certification and the manual.

Figure 4

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G_3107_zpsb6f4a028.jpg

Below you see the documents mentioned earlier. The Rolex Explorer booklet nicely embossed

with a representation of the watch and containing operation instructions, some history and

specification and details of the guarantee and after sales services. With that is a green leather

wallet containing a booklet with the Guarantee, the Official Chronometer Certification and

worldwide service centre addresses and the credit card style warranty card showing details of

the client, the AD reference details and the model and serial number data.

Figure 5


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Although the Explorer series have been in existence since the 1950s, the modern Explorer

evolved in 1989 with the release of the 14270 that introduced Sapphire crystal, gloss dial with

white gold surrounds to the markers, a redesigned 36 mm case and the 27 jewels Cal 3000

movement. The 114270 followed in 2001, upgraded with the 31 jeweled Cal 3130 and solid end

links to the bracelet, but retaining the 36mm case and pressed clasp.

Another major upgrade to the Rolex Explorer range came in 2010 with the release of the

214270. The most obvious change being the increase of case diameter from 36 mm to 39 mm.

The movement was also upgraded to the Cal 3132, along with changes to the dial, bracelet and

clasp.

The watchs new size is just right. Some would argue its a tad too big but to me it just about

right. The design is excellent and the watchs classic look is easily recognizable.

All surfaces, with the sole exception of the upper side of the bracelet, are polished. As with

nearly all Rolex watches, the flat, sapphire crystal rises above the plane of the bezel, but its

perimeter is beveled to deflect the force of a blow. Anti-counterfeiting details include the

letters of the name Rolex engraved into the metal flange around the dial, the Rolex logo at 12

oclock and serial number at 6 oclock.

Figure 6


G_3109_zpsdbc37aea.jpg

The rhodium-plated hands with a Mercedes-logo-like circle on the hour hand clearly contrast

with the matte black dial. Although the crystal has no non-reflective treatment, it is not an issue

as it is not a diver watch and the crystal is not that thick to disturb the passage of light anyway.


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Made out of 904L stainless steel, the 904L is mainly used in the high technology, aerospace and

chemical industries, where maximum resistance to corrosion is essential. A super-alloy, 904L is

extremely resistant and highly polishable. Well and good but has it more scratch resistance

than the typical 316L stainless steel? I dont think so. Rolex should consider titanium

construction instead in future models in my humble opinion.

Its movement, Rolex Cal 3132, is well protected under a fully threaded screw-down back. This

movement differs from Caliber 3130, which powered the previous Explorer, because of its

Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers. Its based on the Cal 3135 with date

display, which powers the Submariner and the Datejust. Meanwhile, the Parachrom hairspring

is made of a blue niobium-zircon alloy and is immune to the influence of magnetic fields. It is

also claimed to be 10 times less susceptible to vibrations than a conventional hairspring.

Additional information on the Parachrom fromhttp://www.watchtime.com:

The Paraflex shock-absorption system (another Rolex invention) provides improved protectionagainst sharp blows. This is the first time that Rolex has installed the system in a steel watch.

The Paraflex mechanism had previously been used only in the Cellini Prince and the Day-Date II,

both of which are available only in precious-metal cases. In the Paraflex system, the spring that

returns the upper bearing jewel to its original position is symmetrical and smooth on both its

faces so that it can be inserted on both sides, which makes the assembly process much easier.

The spring is also less likely to jump out of its anchorage when a strong blow strikes the watch.

Its shape, which extends over the center of the balance staff, makes it less yielding, which

improves its ability to resist deformation. Furthermore, the spring bears two markings: one for

the maximum oil level and one for the minimum. The Paraflex system is another example of

Rolex striving to take whats already good and make it even better.

The movement is automatic and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour) and is

COSC certified. Power reserve is stated to be 48 hours but I have not gotten the chance to test

that yet.

Figure 7


G_3110_zps874b4638.jpg
http://www.watchtime.com/http://www.watchtime.com/http://www.watchtime.com/http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii604/meoramri/Watch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270/IMG_3110_zps874b4638.jpghttp://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii604/meoramri/Watch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270/IMG_3110_zps874b4638.jpghttp://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii604/meoramri/Watch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270/IMG_3110_zps874b4638.jpghttp://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii604/meoramri/Watch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270/IMG_3110_zps874b4638.jpghttp://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii604/meoramri/Watch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270/IMG_3110_zps874b4638.jpghttp://www.watchtime.com/


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The rectangular indices for the hours are filled with luminous material, and a large luminous

triangle at 12 oclock provides orientation for reading the time in the dark, although the

rhodium-plated digits 3, 6 and 9 have no luminous coating. The hands and indices of the new

model gleam brightly in the dark, thanks in part to the new Chromalight luminous substance,

which debuted on the Sea-Dweller Deepsea and is now also used on the Explorer. It glows in apale blue hue.

The lack of any complication apart from the hour, minute and second hands make this a very

user-friendly watch. The crown is easy to unscrew and screw back; and has only two positions:

one for winding; the other for setting the time. A hacking mechanism stops the balance,

immobilizing the second-hand for easy to-the-second setting. The line under the Rolex crown

logo on the winding crown marks it as the Twinlock type, which helps make the watch water-

resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

The Explorers Oysterlock safety folding clasp is also easy to operate. First, open the protectivebow with your fingernail; a second tug on the front part of the clasp triggers a lever mechanism

to unlock it.

Figure 8


G_3114_zps5a862a13.jpg

The Easylink lengthening system concealed inside the clasp is half of a link, which can bepivoted out without changing the appearance of the bracelet (see Figure 11). This five-

millimeter extension can be a welcome addition when your wrist expands in warmer weather.

Nevertheless, I would have preferred a system that could give me more to play with.

Transplanting the Rolex DSSD Glidelock lengthening system into the Explorer would be an

excellent substitute.


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The bracelet has a completely satin-finished upper surface and polished flanks, which ensure

that it perfectly matches the case. The lug width is 20 mm and is well balanced relative to the

case size. A number of people commented that it should be larger but I disagree. If the case

goes beyond 40 mm, it would be wise to go for a 22 mm wide bracelet.

Figure 9


G_3112_zpse5c1525d.jpg

When I first had the watch on my wrist, I was concerned about the likelihood of damage to the

raised Rolex logo especially when it is a part of the release mechanism for the folding clasp. I

tried to convince myself that the designers of Rolex have thought about it and we should not

worry. Since I couldnt find anyone having a problem with that, I guess I was just being

paranoid.

Figure 10

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h%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270/IM

G_3135_zpsf8a27c3a.jpg

Figure 11

http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii604/meoramri/W

atch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%202142

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With the benefit of owning a Rolex 1601 (36 mm), a Milgauss (40 mm) and a Deepsea Sea-

Dweller (43 mm), comparing the wearability of the Explorer relative to the other Rolex models

is easy. If you have a 7.5 inch wrist like I do, the following are my comments on them:

Rolex 1601 (36 mm) A bit small

Milgauss (40 mm) Nice balance but the weight of the watch due to the additionalFaraday cage construction is obvious

Deepsea Sea-Dweller (43 mm) Looks well during active setting. Too bulky for formal wear

Explorer I (39 mm) Well balance with the correct size and weight. Can be used in

all settings and occasions

Figure 12


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Figure 13

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tch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270

/IMG_3128_zps357744a6.jpg

Figure 14

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tch%20Collection/Rolex%20Explorer%20I%20Ref%20214270

/IMG_3126_zpsd379d390.jpg
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Conclusion

This watch is definitely a candidate as the ultimate daily watch. This watch can be used in all

occasions and situations. It looks regal in a formal setting yet is also look rugged in an

adventurous setting.

Compared to its contemporary under Rolexs Professional series watches, this watch does not

look like a tool watch even though it is designed to be such. This is why I think the Explorer I is

still the most brilliantly designed watch under the Rolex brand.

End.


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About The writer

Meor Amri is a Malaysian working in Malaysia. Having bitten by the horology bug in 2010, he

has written extensively about the watch scene and has assembled a large collection of watches

(excessively!!) on his own free time.

His blogs on the same subject are:

1. http://myhorologicalphotos.blogspot.com/; and2. http://watchcollectionhobby.wordpress.com/
http://myhorologicalphotos.blogspot.com/http://myhorologicalphotos.blogspot.com/http://watchcollectionhobby.wordpress.com/http://watchcollectionhobby.wordpress.com/http://watchcollectionhobby.wordpress.com/http://myhorologicalphotos.blogspot.com/

rolex oyster perpetual explorer 39 mm reference 214270 – an improved incarnation (abridged...

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