RoadsLess Traveledin Northwest Oregon ii

A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places

Steve Arndt

Ro

ads Less Traveled

in N

orth

west O

rego

n ii

Steve Arn

dt

From the rolling hills, coastal bays, valley rivers and mountain forests, northwest Oregon is a region of

fertile farmlands, covered bridges and Pacific wonders. Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II

leads modern explorers on nearly 500 miles of routes and explains what they’ll find along the way.

Three Ferries Across the WillamettePart A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles)

Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles)

Exploring Three Capes – Kiwanda, Meares and Lookout

Pacific City to Elsie (89 miles)

In Search of Wisdom and Basketball TrophiesPhilomath to Florence (127 miles)

Discovering Lesser Known Coastal BywaysWaldport to Wren (80 miles)

Three Miles of Gold Panning – Yellow Bottom to Quartzville

Foster to Idanha (71 miles)

in OregonSteve Arndt

Road

s Le

ss Traveled

Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II Second Edition

ISBN 978-0-9844294-2-4$19.00

learn more at: www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com

RoadsLess Traveledin Northwest Oregon ii

Second Edition

RoadsLess Traveledin Northwest Oregon II

A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places

Steve Arndt

Also by Steve Arndt:

About the Roads Less Traveled Series:

Roads Less Traveled in Northeast Oregon Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon

Roads Less Traveled in North-Central OregonRoads Less Traveled in Southwest Oregon

Forthcoming books in the series:

South-Central OregonSoutheast Oregon

"The series will stitch together the state's history and habitat for anyone who pays as much attention to what they're driving through as where they're going."

— Bill Monroe, The Oregonian

www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com

Second Edition

Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon, Second Edition A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places

Steve Arndt

Copyright © 2011, 2008 Steve Arndt All rights reserved.

Photographs by Diane Arndt of Woodburn, Oregon

Maps by Justin Eslinger, Box Lunch Design

Printed in the United States of America

ISBN: 978-0-9844294-2-4

Front Cover:Oregon Coast near Cape Meares (Photograph by Diane Arndt)

Back Cover (from top to bottom)Road between Aurora and ButtevilleYaquina Bay Bridge in NewportChampoeg Winery Chitwood Bridge Quartzville Creek(Photographs by Diane Arndt)

Designed by

Justin Eslinger | Box Lunch Design boxlunchdesign@gmail.com

I shall be telling this with a sigh Somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.

—Robert Frost (1874-1963) from his poem, "The Road Not Taken"

Dedicated to our much anticipated first grandchild

Lia (Diane Magdalena Liani Vega)

May she inherit from us a passion for exploration and a lifelong thirst for knowledge. May she eagerly anticipate what lies beyond each bend in the road, and may she grow to have a deep appreciation of Oregon’s beauty and splendor, rich history and cultural diversity.

Lia's first road trip

Robert Frost's yellow wood

Acknowledgements

Special Thanks to:The Wheeler City Manager

Walt Slaytergrandson of an early Blachly settler

Judy GibbsWaldport museum worker

Scott McArthurfor information about Monmouth and Bethel

Stan Hillerlong time resident of St. Paul

Harmony L. Courtneyproofreader extraordinaire

Numerous residents of Hubbard who freely shared about their community

Merchants in Wheeler

City of Donald

City of Aurora

Independence Historical Society

Monmouth-Independence Chamber of Commerce

Pacific City Visitors Center

The Tillamook Museum and staff

Tillamook Visitors Center

Members of the Bay City Methodist Church

Teachers at Cornerstone Academy in Bellfountain

Monroe Merchants

Blachly Post office employees

Canby Museum employees

Canby Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Center

Owners of the Crow General Store

Benton County Museum workers

All who provided assistance in the production of this book or shared information about their communities and with sincere apologies to anyone not mentioned by name.

Contents

Introduction i

Three Ferries Across the Willamette 1 Part A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles) Canby 3 Barlow 6 Whiskey Hill 7 Hubbard 8 Aurora 10 Butteville 13 Champoeg 14 Donald 15 Broadacres 16 St. Paul 17

Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles) Wheatland 21 Hopewell 22 Spring Valley (Zena) 23 Bethel 24 Oak Grove 25 Rickreall 26 Monmouth 27 Independence 29 Buena Vista 32

Exploring Three Capes — Kiwanda, Meares and Lookout 33 Pacific City to Elsie (89 miles) Pacific City 35 Cape Kiwanda 36 Sandlake 37 Netarts 38 Oceanside 39 Cape Meares 41 Tillamook 43 Bay City 46 Garibaldi 47 Mohler 49 Wheeler 50 Nehalem 51 Elsie 52

In Search of Wisdom and Basketball Trophies 53 Philomath to Florence (127 miles) Philomath 55 Bellfountain 57 Alpine 58 Monroe 59 Franklin 61 Alvadore 62 Elmira 63 Veneta 64 Crow 65 Vaughn 66 Noti 67 Blachly 68 Triangle Lake 69 Swisshome 70 Florence 71

Discovering Lesser Known Coastal Byways 73 Waldport to Wren (80 miles) Waldport 75 Newport 77 Toledo 79 Elk City 80 Chitwood 81 Eddyville 82 Blodgett 83 Wren 84

Three Miles of Gold Panning — Yellow Bottom to Quartzville 85 Foster to Idanha (71 miles) Foster 87 Quartzville 89 Marion Forks 91 Idanha 92

1

99E

99W

99W

99W

99W

5

5

5

5

5

5

Canby

PART A

PART B

Wheatland

Buena Vista

Barlow

Whiskey Hill

Hubbard

Aurora

Butteville

Champoeg

Donald

Broadacres

St. Paul

Hopewell

Spring Valley (Zena)

Bethel

Oak Grove

Rickreall

Monmouth

Independence

99E

99E

99E

99E

99E

99E

5

211

219

219

221

221

221

51

22

22

Willa

mette

Riv

er

Willa

mette

Riv

er

OREGON

Part A: Canby to WheatlandPart B: Wheatland to Buena Vista

Canby . . . . . . . 3

Barlow . . . . . . . 6

Whiskey Hill . . . . . . . 7

Hubbard . . . . . . . 8

Aurora . . . . . . . 10

Butteville . . . . . . . 13

Champoeg . . . . . . . 14

Donald . . . . . . . 15

Broadacres . . . . . . . 16

St. Paul . . . . . . . 17

Wheatland . . . . . . . 21

Hopewell . . . . . . . 22

Spring Valley (Zena) . . . . . . . 23

Bethel . . . . . . . 24

Oak Grove . . . . . . . 25

Rickreall . . . . . . . 26

Monmouth . . . . . . . 27

Independence . . . . . . . 29

Buena Vista . . . . . . . 32

PAR

T APA

RT B

2

The 309 mile long Willamette River is the life-blood of our state and the Willamette Valley, home to more than 70% of Oregon’s popu-lation. The Willamette River is one of the few rivers in the world that flows south to north, a geologic phenomena caused during the ice age when the Missoula Floods eroded the Columbia Gorge and carved the Willamette Valley.

Three ferries operate on Oregon’s longest river: Canby, Wheatland and Buena Vista. For a dollar and change, cars are ushered across the river on any of these ferries. The Willamette River is used for navigation, irrigation, and recreation and played an important role in establishing Oregon City, Portland and Salem as major historical and population centers. The rich soils and the mild climate of the Willamette Valley made the area a coveted destination for pioneers, and early settlers homesteaded the fertile farmlands on both sides of the river.

This route begins in Canby, a short nine miles south of Oregon City, winds through Wheat-land, where Salem actually began, and concludes in Buena Vista, once famous for its fine pottery. Forty-three miles by crow, 136 miles by car, the route passes through many of Oregon’s oldest communities.

This trip will be divided into two parts, A and B. Part A begins in Canby and the first of the three ferry landings. Part B begins at Wheatland, the location of the second ferry, and ends in Buena Vista, the third of the ferry crossings.

Wheatland Ferry

Three Ferries Across the WillamettePart A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles)Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles)

3

CanbyElevation: 152 feet

Location: 45.16.000 N • 122.40.007 W

Services: gas, food, lodging, RV, B&B

The first settler in the area was James Baker, who came to Canby in 1838 after driving cattle through the Willamette Valley from California. In 1848, Philander Lee and his wife Anna purchased land, farmed 80 acres of apple trees, and sold most of their apples to the gold-rush miners in California. In 1868, Joseph Baker settled on Baker Prairie (near the present Baker Cemetery), and opened the community’s first general store. In 1870, the railroad arrived, and the town was platted with streets wide enough to “drive two span of oxen and freight wagon.” The post office opened in 1888. By 1890, Canby, named for General E.R.S. Canby, who was killed during peace talks with Modoc Indians in 1873, boasted of a bank, a general store, a blacksmith shop, a department store, and three hotels. The city incorporated in 1893 and is now own of the fastest growing communities in the state.

Points of Interest• Site of Earthen Mound

(NW 1st and Elm)Canby was an important trading location for nomadic Native Americans. Large quantities of artifacts and the remains of a Native American fortification were unearthed here.

• Masonic Lodge (288 NW 1st)The lodge was built in 1912 and today is used by the Masons, Eastern Star, Job’s Daughters and Rainbow Girls.

• Canby Bank and Trust Building (302 NW 1st)Built in 1906 by O. Roscoe Mack and known as the Arestad Building, this is the oldest bank building in Canby. A geologic marker is located in the concrete steps near the front entrance.

• William Knight Building (394 NW 1st)This 1890 building was constructed of hand-planed lumber. Originally, the ground floor was home to the Carlton and Rosenkrans Department Store and the upstairs housed the first City Council Chambers.

Canby Chapel

William Knight Residence

Part A: Canby to Wheatland

4

Canby Train Depot

• William Mack Home (139 SW 2nd)Mack, founder of Macksburg (west of town), had this home constructed in 1879. The Mack home was completely restored in 1975 and is the second oldest home in Canby.

• United Methodist Church Building (NW 3rd and Elm)The church, with a tall steeple, was built by the Methodists in 1884 and was relocated to this spot in 1912, the year it was sold to the Catholic Church.

• William Knight Residence (525 SW 4th)Knight was Canby’s first postmaster and later Clackamas County’s sheriff. His residence, built in 1875, is one of Canby’s oldest.

• Canby Historical Society (888 NE 4th)The oldest commercial building in Canby, the circa 1871 train depot, was moved to its current location from Ivy and Main, where Blockbuster Video now stands. An old Southern Pacific caboose sits in front of the depot. The rail line from Portland to Canby was built by Ben Holladay and became part of the Oregon and California Railroad. The Clackamas County Fairgrounds are located adjacent to the old depot museum.

• Otto Krueger Home (216 NW 5th)Krueger, a builder of many homes and businesses in Canby, constructed this bungalow in 1910.

• James Vinyard House (290 NW 5th)This house was built about 1913 and was home to James Vinyard, who owned a mercantile store that stood at the corner of NW 1st and Holly. Vinyard served as Canby’s mayor from 1933 until 1946.

• Carlton and Rosenkrans Department Store (181 N Grant)In 1912, after being in business for 21 years, Carlton and Rosenkrans built this large, modern store. At the time, it was Clackamas County’s largest department store. It was gutted by fire in 1973 and is known as the Graham Building.

• Canby Chamber of Commerce (191 SE 2nd)Information, brochures and a friendly staff.

• Methodist Church (NW 2nd and Elm)Frank Dodge built this mission style church in 1913. The original stained glass windows were moved to the new United Methodist Church located on Territorial Road.

• Hoyt Brown House (409 NW 2nd)Brown, a Southern Pacific Railroad official, built this home in 1900.

• F.A. Rosenkrans House (451 NW 2nd)This 1890 home was owned by one of the co-owners of Canby’s first department store.

• William Bair home (375 NW 3rd)Bair, twice Canby’s mayor, had this craftsman styled home built in 1912.

• Wait Park Block (NW 3rd to 4th and Grant to Holly)The block was named for Aaron Wait, the state of Oregon’s first chief justice of the Supreme Court. Wait served from 1859 to 1862. A roller skating rink once stood in the center of the park. Aaron Wait’s home, which still stands, was between North Ivy and North Holly.

• Maple Trees (NW 4th and Grant)The Canby Civic Women’s Club planted the trees between 1908 and 1925. They also planted maple trees on the local school grounds and in many residential yards.

RoadsLess Traveledin Northwest Oregon ii

A Guide to Back Roads and Special Places

Steve Arndt

Ro

ads Less Traveled

in N

orth

west O

rego

n ii

Steve Arn

dt

From the rolling hills, coastal bays, valley rivers and mountain forests, northwest Oregon is a region of

fertile farmlands, covered bridges and Pacific wonders. Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II

leads modern explorers on nearly 500 miles of routes and explains what they’ll find along the way.

Three Ferries Across the WillamettePart A: Canby to Wheatland (56 miles)

Part B: Wheatland to Buena Vista (40 miles)

Exploring Three Capes – Kiwanda, Meares and Lookout

Pacific City to Elsie (89 miles)

In Search of Wisdom and Basketball TrophiesPhilomath to Florence (127 miles)

Discovering Lesser Known Coastal BywaysWaldport to Wren (80 miles)

Three Miles of Gold Panning – Yellow Bottom to Quartzville

Foster to Idanha (71 miles)

in OregonSteve Arndt

Road

s Le

ss Traveled

Roads Less Traveled in Northwest Oregon II Second Edition

ISBN 978-0-9844294-2-4$19.00

learn more at: www.roadslesstraveledoregon.com

RoadsLess Traveledin Northwest Oregon ii

Second Edition