riverfront - midwest manufacturing...a tape measure to get a rough idea of how much the yard slopes...

RIVERFRONT Riverfront paver stones create a sleek, modern look to any patio surface. Combine Brown/Tan, Charcoal/Gray, and Charcoal/Tan for High Definition Sienna; combine Charcoal/Gray, Charcoal/Maroon, and Gray/Maroon for High Definition Cobalt.

AVAILABLE COLORS:

Charcoal/Gray(S) 179-2914(L) 179-2915

Brown/Tan(M) 179-2913

Charcoal/Tan(L) 179-2912

Gray/Maroon(M) 179-2916

Charcoal/Maroon(S) 179-2917

Large

Small

Medium

2⅜"T15⅝"D

23½"W

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15⅝"W‣ ‣

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2⅜"T15⅝"W

7¾"D‣

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DIMENSIONS:

USES: patios, sidewalks, walkways BLOCK SQUARE FOOTAGE: (L) 2.54 sq ft(face dimensions) (M) 1.80 sq ft (S) 0.84 sq ft

WEIGHT: (L) approx. 72 lbs (M) approx. 47 lbs (S) approx. 23 lbs

High Definition Cobalt*

Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: 5.2Blocks Per Pattern: 1 L, 1 M, 1 S





Sq. Ft. Per Pattern: 5.2Blocks Per Pattern: 1 L,1 M, 1 S

CASINO BLEND

PATTERNS AND PLANNING

RUNNING BONDHERRINGBONE

STACK BOND

WESTERWALD

PATIO SIZE NUMBER OF BLOCKS

8' x 8' 10 L, 19 M, 10 S

10' x 10' 15 L, 30 M, 15 S

10' x 12' 18 L, 36 M, 18 S

12' x 12' 22 L, 44 M, 22 S

VERTICAL RUNNING BOND

PATIO SIZE NUMBER OF BLOCKS

8' x 8' 13 L, 13 M, 13 S

10' x 10' 21 L, 21 M, 21 S

10' x 12' 25 L, 25 M, 25

12' x 12' 29 L, 29 M, 29 S

*It is recommended that you purchase enough material to complete your entire project. Color will vary slightly from lot to lot, so materials purchased at a later date may not be a perfect color match. Color may vary slightly from photos shown.

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To begin, make a drawing of the existing area you want to put your patio; noting any existing trees, planting beds or decks it needs to be tied in with. Be sure to measure everything. Use a straight, 16' 2x4 with a 4' level on it and a tape measure to get a rough idea of how much the yard slopes (note that on the drawing too). With the drawing and measurements, use the Landscaping Estimator on Menards.com to lay out a few different designs. (Image 1)

Remember these helpful tips:-Patios must have a slight slope (1" for every 4' to 8') for proper drainage. If you don’t provide enough slope, rainwater will settle into low spots, eventually softening and washing out the sand and subbase materials beneath. A flat or poorly sloped patio could even direct water into your basement. Too much slope and it will feel like things are rolling off your patio. Bear in mind you can build up low spots with an extra-thick layer of subbase.-Ask yourself how you’ll be using your patio. A minimum of 25 sq. ft. of patio per house occupant is recommended. A patio at least 16' long in one direction is often the most functional. Plan for at least a 6' x 6' area out of any traffic path for a dining table and chairs. Do you need space for a grill? Lounge Chairs? A wading pool? Planters? Hopscotch? Sketch these on you tracing paper as well.-In small areas, use simple pavers and patterns (like the running bond). In large areas, you can break up the expanse with a variety of patterns or dividing bands.-Curves add interest and grace to the patio-but also a lot more cutting and extra work.

Pavers, Materials and ToolsWhen ordering pavers, estimate the square footage of your patio, then add 10 percent. If you have a lot of curves, borders or half pavers add 15 percent extra. This allows for damaged pavers and provides extra ones for future repairs. Use plastic edger to outline the perimeter and hold everything in place.Paver Base, available at your local Menards, is the perfect subbase material. Each ½ cubic foot bag will cover 3 sq. ft. at a 2" depth. Paver leveling sand and paver locking sand will also be necessary for completion of your project. For tools, you’ll use everyday hammers, levels and tape measures as well as larger tools, such as a flat-plate vibrator and a masonry saw.

Planning and Layout The first thing you should think about is where the last paver will wind up. Will your yard accommodate the slope and size of your patio? Will a square patio end in nice, full pavers or skinny little slivers?With your plan in hand, lay down garden hose and 2x4s to form an outline of your patio (Image 2).

SCALE DRAWING

Outline the patio perimeter using a garden hose to indicate curved areas and long 2x4s for straight sections.

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PATIO AND SIDEWALK INSTALLATION

Use your level and a straight 2x4 to double-check the lay of the land for proper slope. Then spray-paint a line 8" outside the outline of your patio to act as a line of excavation. Be sure to call to locate and mark out your utility lines, this must be done before beginning excavation. Start by stripping away the sod at this point (Image 3), so grass doesn’t get in the way of the guide strings you’ll soon be setting up.

Excavating The Site And Building The Base This part of the project is the key to a successful (and long-lasting) patio. Use the bottom of a door or a set of stairs abutting the patio area as the starting point for establishing the final height and slope of you patio. Your entire patio should slope away from the house at a rate of 1" every 4' to 8' This slope may be one long decline or a slight dome shape so water runs off in more that one direction. Place one end of a long 2x4 at the bottom of the stairway or an inch below the door threshold, then level across to stakes driven at the perimeter of the patio and make a mark (Image 4). Make another mark the appropriate distance down the stake to indicate the slope. In our case, after making a level mark on our stake with a level and 12' 2x4, we made another mark 2" down to indicate a slope of 2" for that 12'.

Remove sod in an area extending 8" beyond the boundaries of the patio. Spray paint indicates the excavation line.

Use a level, a 2x4 and stakes to determine the slope of the patio. A slope of 1" per 4-8' away from the house is ideal. Run stakes and a grid of string to mark the top of the finished patio, then excavate 5" PLUS the thickness of the paver below the strings.*

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Tamp the subbase using a flat-plate vibrator. Work in a circular motion compacting the area twice.

Make a grid work of stakes and guide strings to indicate the finished height and slope of your patio, then excavate 7-3/8", below these lines. This will provide room for a 4" subbase, the 1" leveling sand base, and 2-3/8" for the pavers themselves (Image 5). If the area is hilly, you’ll need to go back and forth between excavating, leveling and setting strings to get things right.Soil conditions vary greatly across the country. If after digging the necessary depth below your strings, you still find pockets of loose dirt or black soil, remove it or it will eventually settle, creating a wavy patio.

Next, bring in the subbase material. Bring the area up to a of height 3-3/8" below your guide strings (Image 6). It should be at least 4" deep in all places. The subbase should extend 8" beyond the actual edge of the patio to provide room for the edging. It’s possible you’ll need to build up an area to accommodate your patio. In such cases, remove the sod and loose soil, then build up the area with your subbase material. Add subbase in 2-3" lift increments, compact, and repeat until reaching the desired base level. Building a 10" to 12" subbase is common; even 20" would not be unusual.

BASE & EDGING DETAIL

Spread subbase to a depth of 4" over the entire patio area and 8" beyond. Measure down from the guide strings to establish a uniform subbase surface.

Tamping the subbase is an important step when installing your new paver patio or walkway (Image 7). Proper compaction provides stability to the project by spreading any load over a greater area of the ground below. If laid and compacted properly the subbase will help to recompress the surrounding soil that could have been disturbed while excavating.

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The Essential EdgingEdging is an absolute must for maintaining the integrity of your patio. Without solid edging, your sand base and pavers will separate and drift apart from the forces of rain, frost and foot traffic.Plastic edging is available at your local Menards store. Secure the edging into the compacted subbase with spikes (Image 8).

Install the edging on the tamped subbase using 8-12" spikes.

Spread and level a 1" bed of sand over compacted subbase. Pipes provide a guide for dragging the 2x4 screed board.

Spreading SandSand provides the final base for your pavers. If this surface is uneven, the pavers on top will be too. Ideally, the sand should be 1" thick, but if it’s a little thicker or thinner in spots, that’s okay. What you want is a firm, flat surface for laying pavers. Sand also locks the pavers in place. When you tamp the pavers, they’ll bed themselves slightly into the sand.If your patio is under 10' wide, use a screed board with a 2" notch on the ends to ride along the edging to level the sand. On larger expanses, level long lengths of pipe in the sand 2" below your guide strings, then run your screed along the top of the pipes. When you’re done with the pipe, remove it, then fill in the groove it leaves with sand (Image 9). In many cases you’ll use a combination- a notched screed board riding along the edging on one end, with the other end of the screed running along a pipe. Whichever screeding method you use, roughly dump and level the sand over the compacted subbase, then fill in low spaces and rake excess sand as you drag your 2x4. Shuffle the screed lightly from side to side as you work. You’re not compacting the sand, just creating a firm, solid bed.Screed only as much sand as you can cover with pavers in one day. Screeded sand left longer than a day may need to be screeded again, as weather and other elements may displace sand.

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Lay paver stones in desired pattern. If the desired pattern requires cutting, the pavers can be cut with a circular saw with a masonry blade.

Pave AwayYou should now be standing before a flat, slightly sloped expanse of sand. Take down the guide strings you used to determine height and slope and put up new stakes and strings to mark the lines for the pattern of you pavers (Image 10).Start along your house or other long straight edge and lay down the border pavers. (A border isn’t essential, but adds a crisp, finished look, especially along curves.) Then lay the rest of your pavers in your selected pattern. Just lay the pavers in place- don’t stand on them or twist them. Measure over to your string every few rows to make sure you’re staying on track. Tap the pavers tighter together with a rubber mallet. Midwest Manufacturing pavers have little nubs on the side to serve as spacers. If you’ve taken the time to set things up right, laying the pavers will go quickly.

Don’t walk or kneel on the edge of the patio until after you’ve tamped it; otherwise these pavers can sink unevenly.

Let pavers run “wild” near the edges of your patio. Using a paver as a guide, (Image 11) mark the inner pavers, remove and cut them on a masonry saw, then reinstall the cut inner piece and the border piece. On tight radius circles, you can use half pavers for the border to avoid large, pie-shaped voids between them.

Always wear proper hearing and eye protection while operating a masonry saw.

Mark pavers that run "wild" into the border area. Then remove the paver, cut to size and place back in position along with border paver.

Cut pavers on masonry saw. Saw has built-in sliding carriage for moving pavers past the blade. Recirculating water keeps blade cool and lubricated.

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When all your pavers are cut and in place, lightly tamp or tap the pavers with a rubber mallet, starting at the outer edge and working inward in a circular motion (Image 13). The tamping/tapping will lock the pavers into the sand and help even up the surface. You can put plywood down and tamp on top of that to help distribute the weight.If a paver sinks deeper than its neighbors, use a screwdriver to pry it up, sprinkle a little extra sand in the void, then replace the paver.

Lightly tamp the patio with a hand tamper, or rubber mallet, after all the pavers are installed. Tamp entire outside edge first, then circle in.

Sweep Paver Locking Sand into the paver joints. Once paver surfaces have been cleared, begin dampening paver joints.

PathwaysA pathway can be part of a larger project or a project in itself. A walkway made from pavers is an attractive way to link your driveway to your front door, existing deck to new patio, or back door to garden area.Here are a few tips:• Keep the pattern simple; a border running parallel to the path with a simple staggered pattern within is often the most attractive.• Put a slight tilt in the path for drainage. ½" across a 3' wide path is adequate.• Take extra care to keep the edges an equal distance apart; it will make screeding, cutting and paver laying easier.

Paver Locking SandUsing a broom sweep Paver Locking Sand to fill the paver joints. The joints should be filled to the paver chamfer (shoulder). Compact sand into joint spaces as thoroughly as possible. Carefully remove any remaining sand from paver surface prior to dampening. The best appearance is achieved by eliminating all sand from the surfaces of the pavers. It may help to use a leaf blower to remove all sand and dust from the top of the paver and dust that might have settled before watering. Then use a garden hose with a fine misting nozzle to dampen the filled joints. Do not over water the joints and avoid letting water pool on the joints; a light misting will achieve the best results. Repeat dampening process three more times every 15-20 minutes. Allow the locking sand to dry undisturbed for a minimum of 24 hours before allowing foot traffic, and wait 48 hours for vehicle traffic. Humid and wet conditions or low temperature will delay hardening.

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PAVER STONES

INSTALLATION OPTIONS

Paver Base / Step 1 Leveling Sand / Step 2 Paver Locking Sand / Step 3

Install paver stones over a firm, stable base using one of the four installation diagrams shown below. If installing Paver Locking Sand on a non-drainage bed system, there must be a slope to avoid water pooling

on the paver stones. Paver Locking Sand is the 3rd part of a 3-step standard installation system when installing paver stones. By using Step 1 Paver Base, Step 2 Leveling Sand, and Step 3 Paver Locking Sand, you will achieve the best results. Paver stone surface must be dry and clean prior to application of Step 3

Paver Locking Sand to prevent materials from adhering to and hardening on top of the paver stones.

PAVER STONE INSTALLATION STEPS

riverfront - midwest manufacturing...a tape measure to get a rough idea of how much the yard slopes...

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