rigging guide may 2019 - waszp · 09/05/2019 4 waszp rigging guide 1.3 tools required a basic tool...

Rigging Guide

May 2019

Photo by Martina Orsini

09/05/2019

2 WASZP Rigging Guide

INDEX

1 Unpacking ................................................................................................................................................... 3

1.1 Before starting .................................................................................................................................. 3

1.2 Removing contents ........................................................................................................................... 3

1.3 Tools Required .................................................................................................................................. 4

1.4 Trolley Assembly ...................................................................................................................................... 4

1.5 Trolley Tie-down assembly ............................................................................................................... 5

2 Hull & Wings ............................................................................................................................................... 6

2.1 Hull .................................................................................................................................................... 6

2.2 Wing Frame Assembly & Control Lines............................................................................................. 7

3 Control Systems ........................................................................................................................................ 18

3.1 Ride Height Adjuster ....................................................................................................................... 18

3.2 Gearing ............................................................................................................................................ 19

4 Foils........................................................................................................................................................... 19

4.1 Rudder Foil Assembly...................................................................................................................... 19

4.2 Main Foil Assembly................................................................................................................................. 22

4.3 Checking ride height controls ................................................................................................................. 23

5 Rig ............................................................................................................................................................. 26

5.1 Boom Lashing .................................................................................................................................. 26

5.2 Bridle ............................................................................................................................................... 26

5.3 Initial Sail Set-up ............................................................................................................................. 27

5.4 Boom Rigging .................................................................................................................................. 30

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1 UNPACKING

1.1 BEFORE STARTING Your new boat will be delivered to you in a wooden or fibreglass crate. This crate is sturdy enough to protect

your new boat under normal shipping conditions. It can also be reused for re shipping, if for example you are

attending an international event.

Note: It is important to visually inspect the crate upon delivery and before taking receipt of your new boat

from the shipping company.

1.2 REMOVING CONTENTS Remove the contents carefully. Try not to put them on the ground where they may be damaged. Some of the

components are delicate and need to be treated with respect.

Before you remove all the contents of the crate give some thought to where you will store them in order to

keep them from harm's way.

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1.3 TOOLS REQUIRED A basic tool kit is required to put this boat together. Care must be taken when assembling

components to ensure to damage to bolt heads or threads.

Tools:

- Philips head screwdrivers (Number 2, Number 1)

- Allen key set (5mm,2mm,6mm)

- Rubber mallet

- Knife

1.4 TROLLEY ASSEMBLY • Remove the boat and trolley from the box and insert the axle through the holes in the trolley just

forward of the main cradle.

• Push the axle spacers over the protruding steel axle on each side of the trolley

• Put the trolley wheels on.

• Insert axle washer and wheel clip retainer pins.

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1.5 TROLLEY TIE-DOWN ASSEMBLY • Take Rope Kit 2

To Fit:

1. Put stopper knot under trolley pad making sure to slide washer onto the end so the knot does not pull through the trolley pad

2. Use screws provided to attach Cleat to pre-drilled holes 3. Thread rope through hook and then through the cleats putting a stopper knot at the end

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2 HULL & WINGS

2.1 HULL • Assemble the wing blocks (raised or lowered) onto the hull using the supplied pins. Ensure that the

trolley loops are in place around the rear wing blocks and that the trolley straps are tight to secure

the boat to the trolley.

• Screw both bungs into the hull, one in the transom and one near the bulkhead on the starboard side.

• Bolt the gantry onto the hull by unscrewing all the screws

• It is best to screw in the bottom screws first finger tight as this will allow you to better line up the

side gantry screws

• Make sure you use Sikaflex 291 when putting in the side screws and do all 4 screws up tight to ensure

they do not come loose

• A good starting setting for the gantry angle screw is 26mm measured from the tube to the steel

bracket along the centreline. See photo below.

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2.2 WING FRAME ASSEMBLY & CONTROL LINES • Slide the wing covers onto the boltrope track from the rear.

• Take the outhaul rope kit (Kit 12) and follow these instructions:

Step 1: Tie a loop in the centre of the red and white control line

Step 2: Thread the control line through the outer, rear eyelet in the wing cover

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Step 3: Take the supplied kite blocks and tie one end of the supplied bungee to them. (ie. One

bungee and one kite block tied together per side of boat)

Step 4: Thread the control line through the kiteblock

Step 5: Tie the end of the control line onto the small loop on the wing corner block

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Step 6: Using one of the wing cover battens or similar, thread the bungee through the outer wing

cover sleeve to the back of the boat (i.e. from bow to stern).

Step 7: At the back of the boat, thread the bungee through the kite block that comes assembled to

the rear wing corner block.

Step 8: Using the same method as before, thread the bungee back through the outer wing cover

sleeve to the front corner block and terminate the bungee at the block (stern to bow).

Step 9: Repeat on the other side

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• Take the downhaul rope kit, which is kit no. 11, and assemble the downhaul control line and retrieval

line as per the images shown in both the rope kit and below.

Step 1: Take the double block, triple block and control line

Step 2: Thread the control line through the bulkhead cleats, bulkhead single blocks and double and triple

blocks to create a purchase system. At this point the double and triple blocks will not be shackled onto

anything.

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Step 3: Thread the control line through the forward, inner eyelet in the wing cover.

Step 4: Take the supplied kite blocks and tie one end of the supplied bungee to them. (ie. One

bungee and one kite block tied together per side of boat)

Step 5: Thread the control line through the kiteblock

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Step 6: Tie the end of the control line to the loop on the front wing corner block

Step 7: Thread the bungee down through the inside of the front wing cover sleeve all the way to

the centre of the boat. At the centre, go through the Ronstan shock mounted underneath the

pushrod and up the opposite wing cover sleeve all the way until the opposite wing corner block.

Terminate the bungee at the wing corner. The bungee should now run internally from one side of

the boat to the other.

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Step 8: Repeat on the other side. As a check, each front wing corner should now have two control lines

and two pieces of bungee terminating on its small loop. If you can see these, proceed to wing assembly.

Wing assembly

• Slide the wing tube sleeves (Grey) onto the wing tubes. Aligning the holes; place the bottom pin (this

comes supplied fixed to your hull) into both the tube and sleeve to keep the sleeve in place.

• Slide the front wing tube into place through the front wing cover sleeve making sure that none of

the control lines are tangled around the wing bar. Fix with the front wing bar hinge pin and front

wing corner block but do not put the wing block pins in at this stage.

• While the wing covers are nice and loose, it is a good time to set the hiking strap restrictor. Inside

the front wing cover sleeve, you will find a piece of webbing (hiking strap restrictor). This webbing

needs to be threaded through the plastic cleat (fixed to the webbing already) to create a small loop.

The length of this loop should be to roughly the middle of the hole in the tramp when the tramp has

some tension on it. See pictures below.

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• Fix the rear wing bar and wing sleeve to the hull via the rear wing hinge pin, slide the foot straps

down the rear wing bars, and place the rear corner block onto the end of the bar.

• Slide the outer wing bar through the wing cover sleeve, and assemble with the front wing corner.

The wing corner slides inside the outer wing tube. Pull back on the rear wing bar and insert the rear

wing corner block into the outer wing bar, it may need a tap with a soft rubber mallet to get this part

all the way in. See pictures below.

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• Thread the hiking strap lashing which is kit no. 6 as per the rope kit images. Remember to go through

the hole in the wing cover. The inner hole (standard) is for longer legs, the outer hole for shorter legs.

Remember at this point to go through the hiking strap restrictor loop. This stops the hiking strap

slipping up the wing bar.

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• Thread the lashing for the wing covers using Rope Kit 5. It is best at this stage to keep the tension in

the lashings as low as possible. Start at the inner forward lashing point, and work your way

outwards. You should start with a clove hitch at the first knot you tie, as it will stop the batten from

slipping inwards or outwards along the tramp. You can leave the lashing untied at the end for the

moment.

• Lower the wings now until they sit comfortably in the wing blocks and insert the wing block pins. If

the pins are very difficult to insert, try loosening the wing cover lashings a small amount. If you are

still having trouble, do not hesitate to use a rubber mallet (within reason) to convince the pins that

they fit. A small bit of Silicon spray on the pins and in the holes will also encourage the pins to fit

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• Tighten and tie off the hiking strap. Making sure you go around the front wing tube twice with the

dyneema

• Tighten and tie off the wing covers carefully not to rip the tramps by pulling too hard. Tighten the

wing lashings gradually. Over tightening the lashings in one position can damage the wing covers.

• The noodle should now be placed above the boltrope track in the center of the wings and locked in place with the wing cover flaps and Velcro.

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3 CONTROL SYSTEMS

3.1 RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTER Follow the instructions below to complete the setup of your ride height adjuster

• Thread the control line through the wing cover, as shown in the rope kit images. From RHA barrel,

underneath wing tramps until the eyelet, through eyelet, ontop of wing tramps (under hiking strap)

until kiteblock on tramps, through kiteblock, into hole in front wing cover sleeve, down inside

sleeve until centre of boat, through ronstan shock. Repeat in reverse to mirror control line. See

pictures above.

• Wrap the control line 4 times around the barrel of the RHA.

• Continue the control line to meet its tail

• Tie the two tails together to make the control line as tight as possible (try to tie a small knot, as this

knot may need to pass through the eyelet in the tramps with as little friction as possible)

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3.2 GEARING The gearing system on the WASZP is located inside the small bonnet at the bow of the boat. Although this

system has been assembled for you, the length of the gearing screw shown is very important for controlling

the ride attitude of your WASZP. The longer the screw, the more responsive the boat will be to wave height,

whilst ride height will be less responsive with a shorter screw. We suggest that if you are sailing your WASZP

at a venue with either large waves or high wind, to wind the screw all the way in and then back out 3 turns.

If sailing in flat water or light winds the screw can be wound in until 1 thread shown in the image is showing.

To change the gearing, first remove the screw at the end of the gearing pin with a Phillips Head Screwdriver.

Next, wind the gearing pin until you reach your desired position. Finally put the screw back in with Loctite

243 (Blue) to ensure it doesn’t come loose whilst sailing.

4 FOILS

4.1 RUDDER FOIL ASSEMBLY

Firstly, check that your vertical and horizontal foils come together completely. There should be no gap

between the bottom of the vertical and the horizontal surface. If they do not come together the whole way,

there may be some residual mixture left over from sealing the foils that needs to be cleaned out of the

horizontal female plug. The best way is with some sort of scraping device (knife, screwdriver, chisel).

1 Turn 3 Turns

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Before going ahead and assembling the foils, the rudder box should be assembled onto the gantry. To do

this, align the hole in the plastic part (Black) showing in the top of the rudder box with the top bushing in the

gantry. If there is no hole showing in the plastic part, as shown in the image below (left), use a sharp object

to rotate the plastic part until the hole is showing.

Insert the rudder pin now, with the plastic washer at the top. And align the bottom holes to allow the

rudder pin to be fully inserted.

NOTE: If the Rudder Pin does not align through all holes, turn your Rudder sliding gudgeon so that the

hole above is closer to the centre of the slot

Fix the ring at the bottom of the rudder pin to fasten it in place. The plastic bushings that hold the rudder

pin are deliberately very tight, a rubber mallet may be needed to insert the pin fully.

Now insert the rudder vertical into the top of the rudder box.

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Take one of the pieces of bungee from rope kit 7 and wrap it twice around the rudder vertical and rudder

box, passing between the rudder box and the gantry (See below pictures). Tie the bungee tight, as this will

stop your rudder from falling down. The other piece of bungee from rope kit 7, can be tied in a loop around

the tiller and bottom gantry strut (See pictures below).

The foil bolt can now be removed and the horizontal slid into place on the bottom of the vertical. Carefully

replace the foil bolt and do it up tight. Loctite 243 (Blue) must be used on the bolt to ensure it is held in

place

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Rudder Pull Down System

The rudder pull-down system can now be installed by tying one end of the control line onto the ring on the

top of the rudder vertical. Pass the line through the single block and cleat on the rudder box and then tie a

knot. Now take the bungee and fix that to the knot on the end of the control line. Thread the bungee through

the fitting on the end of the tiller. Finally fix the free end of the bungee back to the single block that is

mounted on the rudder box. The rudder assembly is now complete.

4.2 MAIN FOIL ASSEMBLY

1. Take the front vertical foil and remove the small grub screw that connects the pushrod terminal to

the bellcrank.

NOTE: Move the Allen Key back and forth to break-up Loctite. If you try to just wind out the grub

screw, you will likely end up stripping the head of the screw

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REFER TO THE BIG FOIL ASSEMBLY DOCUMENT & COMPLETE STEPS 1-7

STEP 8: Finally, replace the small grub screw at the top of the vertical. Make sure this screw is replaced with

Loctite 243 (Blue), otherwise it can easily become unfastened whilst sailing.

4.3 CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT CONTROLS

The boat must be rolled onto its side and the trolley removed in order to insert the centreboard into the

centre case. With the mast stepped (no sail), the boat will be much easier and safer to roll onto its side.

Once the mast has been assembled and stepped into the boat, tie the mast into the hull to stop it from falling

out. The boat can now be rolled onto its side. As this point it is advisable to place something heavy on the

mast to hold the boat in a capsized position. **Please note, the trolley straps need to be done up as tight

as possible whenever the boat is rolled on its side to ensure no damage is done to either the boat or the

trolley. During this step, it will also be helpful to tie a small weight to the gantry. This will keep the boat sitting

on the wing only, instead of resting the bow on the ground.

Once on its side, the trolley can be carefully removed from the hull and placed on the ground. Ensure the foil

stopper pin from the centreboard vertical is even on both sides (to allow foil to pass through case) and insert

the foil into the centre case. Once in place, screw the foil stopper pin back through to hold the foil in place.

Without this, the foil is able to fall out of the boat, resulting in a lost centreboard!

Foil Stopper Pin

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Whilst the boat is on its side, it is a good opportunity to insert the foil pin, clip the ride height adjuster to the

foil bell crank and familiarise yourself with the dynamics of the WASZP control system. You should check that

moving the wand tip corresponds to the foil flap moving. You should also now check that your ride height

adjuster is working properly by using the full range of adjustment on the adjuster barrel.

Once you are satisfied with how the mechanics of the boat work. We will go through a basic control system

setup guide to get you foiling as soon as possible.

Follow these steps whilst your boat is in the capsized position with the Mainfoil inserted and foil stopper pin

in place.

• Set the foil stopper pin in the middle groove in the centre case insert. This corresponds to a middle

pin hole for the centreboard pin. Slide your centreboard pin into the middle hole.

• Take the wand out of the wand holder, and (using tape or a friend) hold the tip of the wand even

with the surface of the water as if the boat was “low-riding” (sailing with the hull in the water). See

picture below.

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• At this point, when the hull is in the water, we are looking for maximum lift from the foil. This

means we want the flap on the mainfoil to be all the way down. To do this, push the ball joint,

(located at the top of the mainfoil vertical) towards the rear of the boat until it can’t go any more.

You can check that this is maximum flap down by looking at the gap showing between the

horizontal and verticals and trying to pull the flap down further manually

• Now Clip the ride height adjuster tail onto the ball joint, connecting the wand to the main foil flap.

• You should now check that when the wand is on the water in “low riding” mode, that the foil is

responding with maximum lift. When your wand flicks forwards, check that the flap responds by

rising upwards, reducing the gap between the flap and the vertical.

• This is your base setting to go sailing with, and may require some adjustment from your ride height

adjuster whilst foiling.

• Unclip the ride height adjuster, raise the foil and right the boat. But do not forget to replace the

wand in the wand holder, as righting the boat with it in the down position can lead to breakages.

• The next time you put your main foil down and in the middle pin hole, all that is needed to do is clip

the ride height adjuster onto the ball joint and you are ready to foil.

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5 RIG

5.1 BOOM LASHING To fix the boom to the mast, the boom lashing must first be tied and taped. Although the position of this

lashing is an important tuning parameter, a good starting point is 2420mm from the mast base.

1. To begin, take the boom lashing rope supplied in the rope kit and wrap it around the mast 3 times

-

2. Secure using plenty of electrical tape so that the loop can’t slide down

5.2 BRIDLE Bridle position is an important tuning parameter on your WASZP. Follow these steps for initial setup;

• Tie mainsheet bridle (port/starboard) onto wing covers as shown below.

• Tie bridle restrictor onto the ring on the top of the rudder pin.

• Shackle all three lines onto the supplied mainsheet block

A good starting point for the length of the bridles is 470mm (Port/Starboard) and 730mm for the bridle

restrictor.

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5.3 INITIAL SAIL SET-UP Your WASZP sail can be scratched and damaged if dragged over concrete surfaces. It is best to find a softer

surface to unroll the sail. Usually, the hull and wing covers are adequate.

Using the rope supplied in rope kit 17, lash the two mainsheet blocks to the webbing blocks found at the

base of the luff and the clew.

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Remove the double block with a long D-shackle attached and secure it to the eyelet in the clew of the sail.

Take the control line from rope kit 14, thread it through the webbing block at the clew, all the way down the

pocket along the foot of the sail and through the webbing block at the bottom of the luff. A broomstick or

something similar is very useful for feeding the line down the pocket. Put a stopper knot in either end of the

control line. The same can be done with the mainsheet, which is found in rope kit 15. This time, thread the

mainsheet through the mainsheet blocks. Be sure not to tangle the mainsheet around the outhaul rope.

Your WASZP sail is supplied ready to go sailing, with the camber inducers and camber spacers set in place in

the factory. Simply slide the mast up the luff pocket, leaving all the cams to one side of the mast except the

top cam, which should be assembled onto the mast. The remaining cams can now be put onto the mast and

the mast stepped into the boat. To pop the cams onto the mast;

• Have the mast in the luff pocket with the cams on the bottom side of the mast.

• Apply downwards pressure to the intersection of the luff pocket and batten pockets (just behind the

cam)

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• With your other hand, push the cam upwards from the bottom so that it pops onto the mast

• Close the zip

• Repeat, working your way from the top of the sail to the bottom.

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Once stepped, shackle the downhaul triple block onto the eyelet on the sail, and the double block onto

the mast (See picture below). Pull firm tension on the downhaul to set the sail.

In the sail bag pocket you will find several plastic shims. These are called “cam spacers” and are used to shim the cams forward to increase the tension in the sail luff-pocket. These are used to fine tune the sail once the sail has been stretched in. For now, the factory setting is acceptable.

5.4 BOOM RIGGING Once some downhaul tension is applied, the boom lashing should be visible in the sail cut-out. The fitting on

the front end of the boom can now be used to hook your boom lashing loop and the boom can safely hung

from the mast. The boom tail end can now be put in place, with an initial length setting of 34 (8.2m2 sail).

The next step is to thread the outhaul.

1. Lash the Double Block to the wishbone

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• Beginning at the clew, take the control line through the bottom sheave of the double block from port

to starboard.

• Thread the rope upwards through the starboard sheave of the double block on the clew of the sail.

• Thread the rope through the remaining sheave on the boom end from starboard to port.

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• Thread the rope upwards through the final sheave, before tying the end of the control around the

boom, making sure to go through the saddle. Do not tie the control line straight onto the saddle.

• At the base of the luff, take the control line and insert it through the swivel cleat at the centre of

the bulkhead.

• Finally, tie the end of the control line off to the loop at the centre of the outhaul line that runs

through the wing covers.

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Please note that the outhaul line that runs through the sail is deliberately too long. This is to ensure that

when the foil is in the raised position, the outhaul can be eased enough to allow the sail to flop over the

foil. If you find you are rarely using this feature, trim around 1.6m off the tail of the outhaul control line.

Alternatively, the excess control line can be wrapped and tied to the end of the boom, as shown below.

Long Version Short Version

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• We will now thread the mainsheet from the clew running forwards through the mainsheet block on

the bridle and back up to the mainsheet block, terminating with a bowline.

rigging guide may 2019 - waszp · 09/05/2019 4 waszp rigging guide 1.3 tools required a basic tool...

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