return trip · wearing the bow trend week of july 30 the newly minted gosselin: duchess of sussex,...

F O OT W E A R N E W S . C O M / J U LY 3 0 , 2 0 1 8 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

THE NEWGROUPWith kids’ shoes, brand extensions and savvy advisers, Camuto Group is well beyond Aldo

BUCKLE UP Designers are fastening in with the season’s hottest hardware

K U R T G E I G E R I S C O M I N G T O A M E R I C A — A G A I N . I N S I D E

T H E B R I T I S H P O W E R H O U S E ’ S R E V A M P E D P L A N T O C O N Q U E R

T H E U . S . W I T H A B R O A D E R P R O D U C T R A N G E , S H A R P E R P R I C E P O I N T S A N D A S T A R -

S T U D D E D C A M P A I G N .

I S C O M I N G T O A M E R I C A — A G A I N . I N S I D E

T H E B R I T I S H P O W E R H O U S E ’ S R E V A M P E D P L A N T O C O N Q U E R R E V A M P E D P L A N T O C O N Q U E R

T H E U . S . W I T H A B R O A D E R P R O D U C T R A N G E , S H A R P E R P R I C E P O I N T S A N D A S T A R -

S T U D D E D C A M P A I G N .

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INSIDER

9 Camuto Regroups The storied company is forging ahead with new moves, and it’s still open to more deals.

12 FN Spy Why Beyoncé is dancing in Sergio Rossi and Fila is capitalizing on the dad shoe trend.

14 The Outdoor Report Attendees at the Denver OR show were feeling upbeat.

15 What’s Trending Inside the closure of Ivanka Trump’s biz, and Gucci is set to make a statement at PFW.

FEATURES

18 Revisiting America Kurt Geiger is gearing up for a stateside relaunch — and it’s doing things di� erently this time.

THE LIST

29 Shoe of the Week Erdem puts a luxurious spin on sneakers.

30 Leader Board Why coaching is a key tool for the head of San Antonio Shoemakers.

31 Dressed for Success How the Taft shoe startup found its footing with NBA stars.

32 Rainbow Connection Spring girls’ styles embrace the entire color spectrum.

33 The J Walk The next-gen leaders of J. Reneé take a modern approach.

FN PICK

34 Post Script Singer Hailee Steinfeld makes a statement that sticks.

C O N T E N T S

ON THE COVER(Outside circle) Clockwise from bottom left: Alex Wek, Zandra Rhodes, Nick Grimshaw, Joan Collins, Reece King, Jay Kay, Christabel MacGreevey, Molly Smith, Alice DellalPhotos: Courtesy of Kurt Geiger (Inside executive circle) Clockwise from bottom left: Rebecca Farrar-Hockley, Steven Sousa, Neil Cli� ord, Michelle Ryan, Dale Christilaw, Ross WardenPhotos: Paul Stuart

22It’s a CinchLuxury brands buckle down on embellishments.From left: Dorateymur’s red leather Han Court style and Mercedes Castillo’s Akino Slide

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footwearnews.com A sneak peek at some of our best upcoming content.

Celebrities Wearing the Bow TrendWeek of July 30The newly minted Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, has been seen wear-ing the embellished style, which has been a major theme in this year’s shoe collections. Check out more celebri-ties like Priyanka Chopra embracing the trend.

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Behind the Scenes With Katy Perry Week of Oct. 8Get an inside look at our cover shoot for the FFANY Shoes on Sale issue this fall with shoe designer and pop sensation Katy Perry. From the outfi t changes to the unscripted moments, here’s what happened.

Behind the Scenes With Selena Gomez Week of Aug. 27 FN interviewed Selena Gomez during her fi rst visit to the Puma headquar-ters in Herzogenaurach, Germany. FN’s senior athletic and outdoor edi-tor chronicled the trip. Stay tuned for the exclusive footage.

S T O R I E SS T O R I E SS T O R I E SS T O R I E SS T O R I E SS T O R I E SS T O R I E S

Behind the Scenes With David Copperfield and Chloe Gosselin Week of Aug. 13Just in time for FN Platform, we caught up with designer Chloe Gosselin and her husband, magician David Copperfi eld, in Las Vegas for one magic-fi lled day. See outtakes from the shoot.

David Copperfi eld& Chloe Gosselin

Katy PerrySelena Gomezat the Puma HQ

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Chinese Laundry’s Fayme leather ankle boot

Salvatore Ferragamo PVC thong heel

Madonna’s Most Outrageous Style MomentsWeek of Aug. 13Madonna turns 60 this August. In honor of the milestone celebration, FN looks back at the Material Girl’s most memorable looks.

Madonna at the Met Gala in 2017

Salvatore Ferragamo Salvatore Ferragamo PVC thong heel

Chinese Laundry’s Chinese Laundry’s Fayme leather Fayme leather ankle boot

Priyanka Chopra in NYC in April 2018

5 Ways to Wear the Western Boot TrendWeek of Aug. 6FN women’s editor Nikara Johns takes on the challenge of styling one of fall’s biggest shoe trends for the office, a day out in the city and more.

Block Heels to Shop for StabilityWeek of Aug. 6FN comfort editor Barbara Schneider-Levy selects her top choices for heels that don’t hurt, just as summer comes to an end and it’s back to work and school.

ASM1802-FootwearNews.indd 1 5/17/18 3:38 PMFN_Weekly_Full_Page_Bleed.indd 1 7/24/18 9:52 AM

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I N S I D E R

CAMUTO REGROUPS

The top bosses at the firm are prepping it for the future with a series

of savvy moves.

By Neil Weilheimer

I N S I D E R

Alex Del Cielo and Ed Ferrell

10

Nearly a year ago, Camuto Group agreed to be bought by privately held Canadian giant Aldo. Less than three months later, the blockbuster deal, which captured industry attention and aimed to bring together two of the

most storied names in shoes, was killed. ➵ While the merger was scrapped after “careful consideration and thoughtful discussion” by both firms, executives inside Greenwich, Conn.-based Camuto were disappointed.

➵ “You always regret if any transaction doesn’t come through in the end,” said CEO Alex Del Cielo. ➵ In the weeks following, the firm, whose founder and creative visionary, Vince Camuto, died in 2015, needed a new

way to move its business forward. ➵ Indeed, it has. In recent months, the company has hired turnaround adviser Clear Thinking Group, made an aggressive entry into the kids’ market, launched a costume jewelry

business and acquired Sole Society, a multibranded site that will enhance Camuto’s offerings.

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For their part, retailers like what they see.

“We have always valued our partnership with the team at Camuto Group,” said Kristin Frossmo, EVP and GMM of Nordstrom’s shoe division. “They are engaged and collaborative with our merchandising team.”

In their fi rst major interview in nearly a year, Del Cielo and president Ed Ferrell weigh in on new busi-ness initiatives, market rumors (and where they may have originated) and why the duo would go through the sales process all over again.

Let’s talk about life after Aldo. How much did that impact the company?Alex Del Cielo: “We’re continuing to

work on the businesses we launched

in 2017. The Aldo deal was never a

deal that was going to drastically

change what we did at Camuto

Group. For the most part, it was easy

to continue to move along. With or

without Aldo, Camuto was going to

remain a wholesale, sourcing and

design footwear and accessories com-

pany. That wasn’t going to change.”

What did you learn throughout the whole deal, no-deal process?ADC: “The hardest part was the time

that it took. Let’s face it — we are

all very busy at work. That’s every

company in every industry. And

when you’re doing a deal, you have

something else taking time away

from that. That’s always a challenge.”

Ed Ferrell: “At the same time, you

always have to keep your eye on the

prize. That’s in terms of product,

our retail partners as well as the

consumer. No matter what process

you’re going through, from buying a

building to being acquired, you have

to stay focused on what the main

purpose of your business is and driv-

ing it in the right direction. That’s

not always easy because you do get

distracted with questions. But we

learned a lot through that and how

to manage change very well.”

ADC: “We also learned how to com-

municate that change. The group

that was dealing with Aldo directly

inside of Camuto was a small group,

but I think we did a better job as we

went along communicating with the

company at large with what was go-

ing on, telling people, ‘Here’s where

we are at.’”

Shortly after the deal unraveled, Camuto Group hired Clear Thinking Group. What was it trying to fi x?ADC: “They helped us when we had

a problem in our distribution center,

which caused a bit of a cash problem

for us. They helped us work through

that. They continue to give us advice

on management reporting and give

us structure in looking at things.

They’ve brought in tools we didn’t

have in the past. Camuto Group was

never a formal organization, and

[Clear Thinking] has brought some

discipline in that respect. They’ve

helped us analyze the business a little

bit diff erently.”

EF: “When you’re so close to some-

thing, sometimes getting somebody

from the outside to take a look and

give you a fresh point of view — to

even validate what you’re doing —

is important. They can also help

suggest some changes.”

You mentioned cash fl ow issues. To set the record straight, how serious was it?ADC: “We had a fi nancial

structure that we outgrew. It

caused a cash fl ow problem. We

needed to address that.”

Is it all resolved?ADC: “We’re getting there.”

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Moving forward, what new initiatives should the industry expect to see from you?EF: “The Vince Camuto brand is

paramount to the company — it is

our hallmark brand. So we launched

other businesses related to that in

other categories. For instance, we

launched Vince Camuto kids’ foot-

wear; spring ’18 was our first season

at retail.”

ADC: “We are known for the quality

of our footwear and for our fit.

We felt that Vince Camuto would

translate very well into the kids’

market today.”

Why is kids’ so important right now?ADC: “We did a bit of kids’ business

for Dillard’s on one of their brands,

and we felt that if we were doing it,

why not do it for ourselves? Once we

start something, we like doing things

in a big way.”

EF: “We’ve actually started six

kids’ brands in the last year: Vince

Camuto boys and girls, Lucky boys

and girls, ED Ellen DeGeneres girls

and babies. We also have Sole Play,

which is for toddlers. It’s a lot of

little shoes at once.”

How ambitious do you want to be in that market?EF: “It’s meeting the goals we set

internally. Like with any business we

have, we are going to try to exploit

that and grow it very aggressively.

We put the tools in place to do that.”

What other categories has Camuto entered?EF: “In the fourth quarter of 2017,

we moved into costume jewelry for

the Vince Camuto brand. And in

2016, we also acquired Sole Society,

a multiplatform footwear website

that gave us enhanced category

offerings. We just launched jewelry

for Sole Society as well.”

What advantages did the Sole Society deal give you?EF: “We were seeing where the busi-

ness was going in terms of digital

explosion. We bought it because we

liked the brand and the categories it

represented. But we also thought it

was a place where we could launch

a multibranded website that could

showcase our own brands. On the

Vince Camuto website, it’s all Vince

Camuto. This gave us another

platform. It has two segments to it.

Obviously, the online [marketplace]

is the retail piece, and we’re exceed-

ing plans there. But there is also

the wholesale component, where

Nordstrom carries the Sole Society

branded merchandise in their doors.”

Why is it important to be a stable of brands and services?EF: “The customer is changing. If

you look back, many brands that

existed 10 years ago that were

sitting in a lot of department

store space, many of those don’t

even exist anymore. We are trying

to look at brands that are relevant

to the end-use customer. Some

of our newer offerings are also

because we see white space in our

retail partners. We have strong

relationships with our retailers.

When we go out with a new brand

or retailers come to us with an

idea to partner on, they know

they’re going to get quality and

fit, and they give us space on the

floor to launch a brand. That gives

us a big advantage in launching

and growing brands. You have to

develop new things, and you have

to have things in the pipeline all

the time.”

How else have you rounded out your business?ADC: “We made a huge investment,

about $40 million, in our distribu-

tion center in New Jersey. That was

to handle how the business has

changed, giving us a greater ability

to go direct to consumer, whether

it’s drop-ship for our wholesale cus-

tomers or for our own website.”

To clean up operations, the company shuttered all its retail stores. Tell us more about that.ADC: “We closed all the stores

because we weren’t a very good re-

tailer, and sometimes you can’t be

all things to all people. When you’re

not successful in a certain business,

you close it down. Unfortunately,

it’s expensive to get out of.”

Related to those closings, there are lots of rumors about Camuto Group in the market. What’s your take on them?ADC: “The 2018 rumor is that we

were bankrupt and we were going

out of business. We haven’t gone

bankrupt, and we haven’t gone out

of business, which [is something]

people have been saying since

Vince died.”

EF: “I find it interesting when

people do say that about us. It

means we are something to look at.

I try to turn it into a positive. They

are talking about us because we’ve

led the industry for a lot of years.

It’s interesting when their words

aren’t so kind.”

Do you think the competition planted the rumors with the hopes of taking market share?

ADC: “Absolutely. I think they try

to do that, but what they under-

estimate is our relationship with

the retailer, who — when they hear

something like that — tend to call

us. I think it’s funny that that is

what others have to resort to.”

Are you worried about an escalating U.S.-China trade war? ADC: “It hasn’t affected our busi-

ness because we pay duties that

have been pretty much the same for

a long time. No brand or retailers

will be able to absorb the tariffs.

It’s going to get passed on to the

consumer. When you look at any of

these consumption taxes, it is the

consumer who ultimately pays.”

EF: “I guess the good news, bad

news is that it has a level setting to

it. It’s not Camuto Group getting

hit with a tariff, it’s the industry.

Nobody is immune to it.”

Where do you stand on future deals? Would you look to go through that sales process again?ADC: “Yes, if it was the right deal.

Ultimately, my job is to get our

shareholders value. If the opportu-

nity presents itself, absolutely.”

Are you in talks with anyone now?ADC: “Lots of people call us all

the time.”

What kind of potential buyer appeals to you more: another shoe company or private equity?ADC: “I think someone from the

shoe industry is probably more

appealing. Strategic people have

a longer-term view of things. But

again, ultimately, our job is to get

value for the shareholders.” ❚

Lucky Brandkids’ campaign

11

“We closed all the stores because

we weren’t a very good retailer, and

sometimes you can’t be all things to

all people.” — Alex Del Cielo

MercedesCastillo fall ’18

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Fila Disrupts Consumers still relish the dad shoe. According to online global fashion search platform Lyst, Fila’s Disruptor sneakers ranked No. 2 in women’s hottest products in its quarterly report. The latest installment of The Lyst Index, which measures the online shopping behavior of more than 5 million custom-ers a month across 12,000 designers and stores online, also showed that consumers are still into classics as well as trendy shoe styles. For instance, Chanel’s canvas cap-toe espadrilles are the most wanted pre-owned item online, ranking No. 7, while Balenciaga’s controversial Crocs platforms, at the No. 10 spot, were released for a second time, with the styles selling out again across retailers worldwide. — N.J.

ALL ABOARD Brooks Brothers is celebrating its 200-year anniversary in grand New York style. Next month, the brand will debut a ret-rospective exhibition in New York’s Grand Central Terminal featuring a selection of men’s and women’s fashion, artifacts and imagery from its archives. “[This] allows us to share our legendary story that began in New York,” chairman and CEO Claudio Del Vecchio said in statement. “Brooks Broth-ers has outfi tted an ever-changing world and is consistently pursuing quality and innovation. The event will highlight a sampling of items that have revolutionized and defi ned American style as we know it today.” In the space, visitors will also see an 18-foot-high video sculpture in the form of the brand’s Golden Fleece logo. It will highlight Brooks Brothers’ notable clientele, including Hollywood legends, writers, politi-cians and artists. Admission is free, and the exhibition will be open to the public from Aug. 6 to Sept. 5. — Nikara Johns

12 INSIDER

To the QueenSergio Rossi’s CEO on the custom looks the brand crafted for Beyoncé’s tour.

By Nikara Johns

B eyoncé and Jay Z have been busy with their “On the Run II Tour,” and the show’s costumes are a spectacle in

and of themselves. Beyoncé has been wowing crowds — which have included fans like for-mer fi rst lady Michelle Obama — with impres-sive ensembles from Gucci, Peter Dundas and LaQuan Smith. And this month, the singer has been spotted onstage wearing both silver and gold metallic over-the-knee boots and glitter pumps custom-made by Sergio Rossi. FN caught up with the brand’s CEO, Riccardo Sciutto, to talk about the collaboration with one of music’s biggest stars.

How many shoes did the brand create for Beyoncé?

Spy

Beyoncé and a sketch of her Sergio Rossi

custom boots

PROJECT PORTUGAL Portugal’s most innovative footwear designers were show-cased in a special installation as part of a new “Made in Portugal” initiative during this year’s Project Sole event. Hosted by Portuguese footwear association Apiccaps and apparel trade association Anivec, the July 22-24 showcase introduced retailers and buyers to the country’s top contemporary brands, including Brusque, Carlos Santos, Westmister and Galeiras. UBM footwear chief Leslie Gallin and FDRA also helped toast the partnership at the lively event at The Standard Hotel in New York. “We believe Portuguese footwear exports to the U.S., which in 2017 reached 70 million euros, can double in the coming years,” said Apiccaps president Luís Onofre. “We’re sure that when the American customers discover the quality of the Portuguese footwear, they won’t trade it for anything else.” — Samantha McDonald

Fila’s Disruptorsneaker

RS: “Thirty in a week. It was a labor of love, but we had to do our very best.”

Have you noticed a sales bump since she has been wearing the shoes? RS: “We are already in a positive trend from last year, and we hope this new step will help us to grow even more.”

What was the inspiration behindthe designs? RS: “Beyoncé is an inspiration on her own. Her incredible energy both on- and o� stage, her powerful personality, strength and touch of playfulness are always key to any Sergio Rossi creation.”

What were some of the key design ingredients?RS: “We gravitated toward chunky heels from our iconic Virginia and Scarlett pieces in very special materials just for her. They will be available in our top stores in the next few weeks.”

How does teaming up with celebrities impact the brand as a whole?RS: “It’s invigorating and inspiring. It gives us great validation on the direction we have taken in the last two years and is so fl attering to think a superstar like Beyoncé wears our shoes.”

A look fromthe “Made inPortugal” campaign

FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR [email protected]

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The Tradeshow Issues

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SNEAKERS, CASUAL LOOKS TOP BUYERS’ LISTS AGAIN AT PROJECT SOLE Even conservative customers are seeking sportier looks. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Casual footwear continues its reign in men’s for spring ’19 as the trend makes its way to the more conservative South and Midwest. Specialty store retailers shopping last week’s Project Sole show in New York agreed that traditional customers are increasingly looking for athletic-inspired shoes to wear weekend to weekday.

Lightweight, comfortable styles were on Caleb Pennington’s shopping list. The buyer and manager of Walker Brothers in Rogers, Ark., said his customers are seeking product to footnote denim. “They’re over the sartorial look,” he said.

“Guys are wearing more comfortable shoes to work. They [want] sneakers and chukkas. The dressiest style [they’ll] wear is a loafer.”

According to Pennington, even more traditional lace-up styles must sport a white bottom, inspired by performance looks. One hit at the store is Cole Haan’s collection of Zerogrand styles, which set dress-casual and athletic uppers on lightweight, fl exible bottoms.

At The Locker Room in Montgomery, Ala., buyer Josh Davis said running and tennis shoes by athletic brand On has taken o� at the store, selling at a rate of 10 pairs a day. “[Things] are more casual; people can wear them to work,” he said.

According to Davis, dressier silhouettes with performance features are also selling. “There’s so much innovation in shoes,” he said about the range of technologies being introduced that deliver on both quality and comfort.

Simon Rhim, co-owner of Mister Guy in St. Louis, also has sneakers on his radar. “We’re doing well with athletic looks,” he said, which can be a key footnote to a pair of fi ve-pocket pants, a popular silhouette. He also noted that as with The Locker Room, running shoes by On are trending.

Customers at Liles Clothing Studio in Raleigh, N.C., have been jumping on the sneaker trend, according to owner Bruce Liles. The store has experienced solid sell-throughs of its sneakers, with brands such as Noah Waxman performing well. These athletic styles are now being worn with unconstructed jackets and fi ve-pocket pants, said Liles. “Older guys are switching to sneakers. They’re getting into comfort.”

To keep the momentum going, vendors at the show were prepared with fresh takes on the category. “Fashion trainers are not just high-end anymore,” said Steve Lorenz, sales manager for Testosterone. “It’s now coming into more mainstream prices.”

For spring ’19, the brand has a spectrum of product, from updates of running styles to dressier shoe-inspired looks on athletic bottoms. “You need a sneaker family of shoes and di� erent iterations,” Lorenz said. “You need to keep it fresh.”

he big outdoor players

are on a winning streak.

Still, brick-and-

mortar retailers must

work harder to attract consumers to

stores, said industry players attend-

ing the Outdoor Retailer show in

Denver last week.

“We came away emboldened

in our positive stance with respect

to how well cold-weather brands

are positioned for the upcoming

fall/winter season,” Canaccord

Genuity Inc. analyst Camilo

Lyon wrote in a note last week.

“Consistent with what we have

been discussing throughout this

year, we continue to hear that

the channel in both outerwear

and footwear is incredibly clean

of carryover inventory. Moreover,

retailers appear to have under-

ordered relative to the strong

demand trends they are seeing,

which could translate into a

solid reorder scenario, assuming

weather cooperates.”

This month, outdoor giant VF

Corp. reported strong sales and

earnings, and Lyon expects the

trend to continue with other big

fi rms like Deckers and Columbia.

“In aggregate, we see a positive

setup for the group heading into the

back half of the year,” Lyon said.

While many players are in better

shape than in several seasons, the

retail climate, including in the out-

door space, remains challenged.

“We have far too many stores in

the United States, we have far too

many stores selling the same stu�

in the United States,” Matt Powell,

The NPD Group Inc.’s senior

industry adviser for sports, said

during a presentation at OR.

“We need to go through this retail

rationalization. It’s very painful,

but we’ll be a stronger industry on

the other side.”

And as stores close — including

the 90 million square feet of now-

vacant retail space from bankrupt-

cies in the fi rst quarter of 2018 —

a signifi cant portion of business

goes to the internet. During his

talk at the Embassy Suites Down-

town Denver, Powell said that 28

percent of footwear sales in the

12-month period ending March

2018 were made online, and he

believes the number could jump to

as much as 50 percent in the next

fi ve years.

But physical stores are still im-

portant. Powell said that 25 percent

of all athletic shoes were purchased

online, but 65 percent of the people

who bought a pair on the internet

bought their next in a physical store.

A greater emphasis needs

to be placed on immediacy and

personal connections, according

to key branded executives.

“It’s about creating that experi-

ence and creating a relationship

with the particular customer,” said

Brandon McCarty, chief marketing

o� cer at Eastman Group.

Topo Athletic founder and CEO

Tony Post believes a retailer’s will-

ingness to take risks on unproven

or unfamiliar product is what will

keep the specialty channel thriving.

“A lot of outdoor retailers I talk to

are more willing to bring in new

concepts and new ideas, and they

showcase them well,” Post said.

“Customers like to shop brick-and-

mortar to see something [fresh],

and I think they’re more receptive

to new brands, ideas, concepts

and products.”

Momentum Builds for Key Outdoor PlayersThe mood was generally upbeat at the Outdoor Retailer show in Denver last week. By Peter Verry

“We came away emboldened in our positive stance with respect to how cold-weather brands are

positioned for the upcoming fall/winter season.” — Camilo Lyon

A spring ’19 lookfrom Testosterone

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Ivanka Trump’s decision to pull the plug on her namesake fashion brand was a much-buzzed-about topic last week. The fi rst daughter and adviser to President Donald Trump said she will wind down the business she started in 2007 to prioritize an indefi nite run in Washington, D.C. “I do not know when or if I will ever return to the

business,” Ivanka Trump said in a statement. Around the time of her father’s 2017 inauguration, Trump had relinquished her day-to-day responsibilities at the brand and placed the company in a trust. A spokesperson for the label said she was also compelled to place “strict limitations on the business” to avoid confl icts with her role in the White House.

Nike Is Giving Raises to 10% of Its Sta� Nike Inc. is increasing the salaries of 10 percent of its workforce starting this month. The pay hike will impact employees “across all levels, geographies, functions and brands,” and is geared toward remedying issues of pay equity and corporate culture at the athletic behemoth. As part of the new format, the Swoosh will dole out bonuses based on companywide performance (previously, this was based on team and individual merit).

Gucci to Show Spring 2019 in Paris Gucci revealed last week that its spring ’19 collection will be presented at Théâtre Le Palace in Paris on Sept. 24 at 9 p.m. The Italian fashion house said this is the fi rst time the location will host a runway show. This is a one-o� show for Gucci and marks the crescendo of a three-part homage to France conceived by the Italian brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.

Why Ivanka Trump Is Shutting Down Her Fashion Brand

QUOTES OF THE WEEKOverheard in the industry last week

“It breaks my heart that she is going through this. She is a light in this world, and I am sending my love to her and her family.”TV personality and designerEllen DeGeneres sends her support to Demi Lovato on Twitter after the singer’s reported overdose last week.

“Melo’s a proven vet. He just wants to win at this point, so it would be great for him to be on our team.”NBA MVP James Harden speaks to the Houston Chronicle on Carmelo Anthony joining the Houston Rockets.

“The industry is trying to figure out what is just plain disruption for disruption’s sake and what is actually going to be policy that impacts sourcing.”FDRA president and CEO Matt Priest on President Donald Trump’s stance on trade.

INSTAGRAMS OF THE WEEKThe 5 most-liked photos from @FootwearNews

TO P STO RY

W H A T ’ S T R E N D I N G

Are @virgilabloh’s Air Force 1s set to be released in smaller sizes?

1

Supermodel @kateupton in strappy @jimmychoo sandals.

2

@alisonbrie at the ESPY Awards in @sophiawebster sandals.

3

@Ugg’s new fall ’18 furry sandal pump.

4

@nike is giving raises to 10% of its sta� starting this month.

5

15INSIDER

LABS

P O W E R E D B Y

Shoes manufactured and designed in Portugal are making their mark on a global scale.

For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Lauren Schor at [email protected].

Portuguese Footwear Takes Center Stage

While Italy and Spain may traditionally take the spotlight in regard to shoe craftsmanship, Portugal has a growing — and powerful — footwear market. In fact, the Portuguese footwear, components and leather goods manufac-turers’ association APICCAPS attests that trade-wise, Portugal is reaching notable highs. FN recently reported that president of APICCAPS Luís Onofre cited stats revealing that in 2017, the country’s shoe exports into the U.S. went up to about 70 million euros.

The APICCAPS president said this number could double in the next several years. And, according to Onofre, Portu-gal’s growing influence in the shoe indus-try should come as no surprise.

“It’s a modern and forward-facing industry — one that combines the best in craft and heritage with cutting-edge tech and savoir faire,” he said. “Portuguese foot-wear showcases an elevated sense of design and creativity.”

Teams in the U.S. eying new opportuni-ties may stand to benefit. The businesses that make up the Portuguese footwear ecosys-tem are eager to expand, and APICCAPS reports that they have their sights set state-side. Here, the association gives FN a taste of a few such ones that the organization described as boasting excellence in design at a fair price point. P

HO

TO

S:

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

AP

ICC

AP

S

BRUSQUEAll the manufacturing for this men’s

and women’s shoe brand comes from

Felgueiras, a location in Portugal, which

has a storied history of producing quality

footwear. Authenticity is central to

Brusque shoes — as is the passion that

its team has for its creations.

l [email protected]

l brusquefootwear.com

CARLOS SANTOSKnown for classic silhouettes, Carlos

Santos men’s shoes have been produced

exclusively in Portugal since 1942. Quality

and innovation are brand hallmarks.

l [email protected]

l santosshoes.com

design offerings for men, the brand boasts

an environmentally friendly approach as

well as a commitment to supporting social

causes, like that of an orphanage in its

home city.

l [email protected]

l coxx-borba.pt

DROMEDARISStakeholders take note: Dromedaris

Portugal Calcado, Lda — a global sourcing

subsidiary of Swiss company Dromedaris

International — newly expanded its

portfolio to include a development and

design department.

l [email protected]

l dromedaris.us

FELMINIFelmini creates designs for the modern

woman. Founded in 1973, a contemporary,

independent muse is kept in mind. Also

key to the brand’s offerings? A dedication

to high-quality leather.

l [email protected]

l felmini.com

FLEX&GOSpecializing in slip-on styles,

FLEX&GO caters to female shoppers

on-the-go. Focus is on practicality

and well-fitting shoes.

l [email protected]

l flexgo-shoes.com

FLY LONDONLaunched in the U.K., with a headquarters

in Portugal, Fly London is a brand all about

turning tradition on its head. While its

roots are in footwear, its offerings have

grown to include other accessories such

as bags and sunglasses.

l [email protected]

l flylondon.com

LEMON JELLYLemon Jelly offers colorful, high-tech

creations for women and kids. Functional

shoes that encourage fun take center

stage here. Bonus points: the pairs do

great in water.

l [email protected]

l lemonjelly.com

MOCC’S AND BOAT DOCK’SHeritage-focused Mocc’s and Boat Dock’s

emphasizes timelessness, and is known

for its signature moccasins. In-house

design and production are principal

to its mission, as is the high-quality

craftsmanship promised to accompany it.

l [email protected]

l tofel.com.pt

NETOSCreated in 1957, Netos now produces 800

pairs of shoes on average daily. Ninety-

five percent of its production is for export

under a private label system, and it even

provides development support services

to some of its clients.

l [email protected]

PERLATOHigh-quality manufacturing lies at the

core of this innovative women’s footwear

brand. Designs are touted as daring

yet elegant, and the brand features a

forward-looking sensitivity.

l [email protected]

l perlato.com

PRATIK/IMAGINIAmple research, tight quality control and

an eye toward tech inform the designs

of these men’s and women’s footwear

brands (respectively), which fall

under the same parent company.

As to what else links the brands?

A dedication to shoes that are

comfortable, a spokesman confirmed.

l [email protected]

l pratikshoes.com and imaginishoes.com

PREGISA newcomer to the footwear scene

(established in 2017), Pregis shoes

are designed in London and made

in Portugal. The brand doles out

premium — but sensible — items for

both men and women.

l [email protected]

l pregisshoes.com

RICAP SHOESRICAP Shoes has grown notably over

time, thanks to the export of its products.

To boot, it even boasts its own brands.

l [email protected]

l ricap.pt

SOFTINOSComfort is central to this brand’s

mission — from its shoes’ appearance

to the materials that are used in soft,

rounded silhouettes.

l [email protected]

l softinos.com

TATUAGGIReferring to “tattoos” in Italian, the

name Tatuaggi reflects the idea that

fashion and identity closely intertwine.

This footwear manufacturing firm

is based in the Portugese city of

São João da Madeira, known for its

rich traditions in shoemaking.

l [email protected]

l tatuaggi.pt

UBIKThe world’s cities inspire this urban-

focused footwear manufacturer. But

its cosmopolitan focus is not all —

Ubik promises quality offerings with a

contemporary touch.

l [email protected]

l ubikshoes.com

CLOUD FOOTWEARThis footwear label serves up comfy but

trend-forward kicks for men and women.

A playful approach is key to its light and airy

designs, taking a cue from their namesake.

l [email protected]

l cloud-footwear.com

COM – CREATION OF MINDSCOM – Creation of Minds is a Portuguese

shoe brand focused on both creativity and

comfort. Consumers turn to the brand for

its unique takes on trends.

l [email protected]

l creationofminds.com

COXXBORBACoxxborba is a forward-thinking brand

with a whole lot of heart. Innovative in its

P R O F I L E S

Mocc’s and Boat Dock’s

Perlato

Tatuaggi

RICAP Shoes

Felmini

Carlos Santos

Portuguese footwear

showcases an elevated sense of design and

creativity.”—LUÍS ONOFRE

FNLABS_APPICAPS.indd All Pages 7/25/18 1:13 PMUntitled-20 2 7/25/18 1:21 PM

LABS

P O W E R E D B Y

Shoes manufactured and designed in Portugal are making their mark on a global scale.

For more information about sponsored opportunities, please contact Lauren Schor at [email protected].

Portuguese Footwear Takes Center Stage

While Italy and Spain may traditionally take the spotlight in regard to shoe craftsmanship, Portugal has a growing — and powerful — footwear market. In fact, the Portuguese footwear, components and leather goods manufac-turers’ association APICCAPS attests that trade-wise, Portugal is reaching notable highs. FN recently reported that president of APICCAPS Luís Onofre cited stats revealing that in 2017, the country’s shoe exports into the U.S. went up to about 70 million euros.

The APICCAPS president said this number could double in the next several years. And, according to Onofre, Portu-gal’s growing influence in the shoe indus-try should come as no surprise.

“It’s a modern and forward-facing industry — one that combines the best in craft and heritage with cutting-edge tech and savoir faire,” he said. “Portuguese foot-wear showcases an elevated sense of design and creativity.”

Teams in the U.S. eying new opportuni-ties may stand to benefit. The businesses that make up the Portuguese footwear ecosys-tem are eager to expand, and APICCAPS reports that they have their sights set state-side. Here, the association gives FN a taste of a few such ones that the organization described as boasting excellence in design at a fair price point. P

HO

TO

S:

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

AP

ICC

AP

S

BRUSQUEAll the manufacturing for this men’s

and women’s shoe brand comes from

Felgueiras, a location in Portugal, which

has a storied history of producing quality

footwear. Authenticity is central to

Brusque shoes — as is the passion that

its team has for its creations.

l [email protected]

l brusquefootwear.com

CARLOS SANTOSKnown for classic silhouettes, Carlos

Santos men’s shoes have been produced

exclusively in Portugal since 1942. Quality

and innovation are brand hallmarks.

l [email protected]

l santosshoes.com

design offerings for men, the brand boasts

an environmentally friendly approach as

well as a commitment to supporting social

causes, like that of an orphanage in its

home city.

l [email protected]

l coxx-borba.pt

DROMEDARISStakeholders take note: Dromedaris

Portugal Calcado, Lda — a global sourcing

subsidiary of Swiss company Dromedaris

International — newly expanded its

portfolio to include a development and

design department.

l [email protected]

l dromedaris.us

FELMINIFelmini creates designs for the modern

woman. Founded in 1973, a contemporary,

independent muse is kept in mind. Also

key to the brand’s offerings? A dedication

to high-quality leather.

l [email protected]

l felmini.com

FLEX&GOSpecializing in slip-on styles,

FLEX&GO caters to female shoppers

on-the-go. Focus is on practicality

and well-fitting shoes.

l [email protected]

l flexgo-shoes.com

FLY LONDONLaunched in the U.K., with a headquarters

in Portugal, Fly London is a brand all about

turning tradition on its head. While its

roots are in footwear, its offerings have

grown to include other accessories such

as bags and sunglasses.

l [email protected]

l flylondon.com

LEMON JELLYLemon Jelly offers colorful, high-tech

creations for women and kids. Functional

shoes that encourage fun take center

stage here. Bonus points: the pairs do

great in water.

l [email protected]

l lemonjelly.com

MOCC’S AND BOAT DOCK’SHeritage-focused Mocc’s and Boat Dock’s

emphasizes timelessness, and is known

for its signature moccasins. In-house

design and production are principal

to its mission, as is the high-quality

craftsmanship promised to accompany it.

l [email protected]

l tofel.com.pt

NETOSCreated in 1957, Netos now produces 800

pairs of shoes on average daily. Ninety-

five percent of its production is for export

under a private label system, and it even

provides development support services

to some of its clients.

l [email protected]

PERLATOHigh-quality manufacturing lies at the

core of this innovative women’s footwear

brand. Designs are touted as daring

yet elegant, and the brand features a

forward-looking sensitivity.

l [email protected]

l perlato.com

PRATIK/IMAGINIAmple research, tight quality control and

an eye toward tech inform the designs

of these men’s and women’s footwear

brands (respectively), which fall

under the same parent company.

As to what else links the brands?

A dedication to shoes that are

comfortable, a spokesman confirmed.

l [email protected]

l pratikshoes.com and imaginishoes.com

PREGISA newcomer to the footwear scene

(established in 2017), Pregis shoes

are designed in London and made

in Portugal. The brand doles out

premium — but sensible — items for

both men and women.

l [email protected]

l pregisshoes.com

RICAP SHOESRICAP Shoes has grown notably over

time, thanks to the export of its products.

To boot, it even boasts its own brands.

l [email protected]

l ricap.pt

SOFTINOSComfort is central to this brand’s

mission — from its shoes’ appearance

to the materials that are used in soft,

rounded silhouettes.

l [email protected]

l softinos.com

TATUAGGIReferring to “tattoos” in Italian, the

name Tatuaggi reflects the idea that

fashion and identity closely intertwine.

This footwear manufacturing firm

is based in the Portugese city of

São João da Madeira, known for its

rich traditions in shoemaking.

l [email protected]

l tatuaggi.pt

UBIKThe world’s cities inspire this urban-

focused footwear manufacturer. But

its cosmopolitan focus is not all —

Ubik promises quality offerings with a

contemporary touch.

l [email protected]

l ubikshoes.com

CLOUD FOOTWEARThis footwear label serves up comfy but

trend-forward kicks for men and women.

A playful approach is key to its light and airy

designs, taking a cue from their namesake.

l [email protected]

l cloud-footwear.com

COM – CREATION OF MINDSCOM – Creation of Minds is a Portuguese

shoe brand focused on both creativity and

comfort. Consumers turn to the brand for

its unique takes on trends.

l [email protected]

l creationofminds.com

COXXBORBACoxxborba is a forward-thinking brand

with a whole lot of heart. Innovative in its

P R O F I L E S

Mocc’s and Boat Dock’s

Perlato

Tatuaggi

RICAP Shoes

Felmini

Carlos Santos

Portuguese footwear

showcases an elevated sense of design and

creativity.”—LUÍS ONOFRE

FNLABS_APPICAPS.indd All Pages 7/25/18 1:13 PMUntitled-20 3 7/25/18 1:21 PM

C A N K U R T G E I G E R F I N A L L Y C R A C K T H E U . S . ? I T S

E X P A N D E D T E A M I S F O R G I N G A H E A D W I T H A N E W S T A T E S I D E

G A M E P L A N A N D P U M P I N G U P T H E D E P A R T M E N T S T O R E B I Z A T H O M E W I T H A F O C U S

O N M E N ’ S A N D S N E A K E R S .B y K a t i e A b e l

REVISITING AMERICA

18

U P T H E D E P A R T M E N T S T O R E B I Z A T H O M E W I T H A F O C U S

B y

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From left to right: Dale Christilaw, Steven Sousa, Michelle Ryan, Neil Cli� ord, Rebecca Farrar-

Hockley and Ross Warden

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hat a di� erence fi ve years

can make.

In 2013, British power-

house Kurt Geiger came

charging into the U.S. with

an aggressive strategy: to

open dozens of fl ashy retail

stores in key markets around the country. Like

many other U.K.-based companies, it saw America

as a lucrative opportunity but didn’t fully under-

stand the complexities of operating in the market.

Real estate leases were costly, deliveries were

problematic, and the product was too expensive

for a brand that had little international recogni-

tion. A year later, the label closed shop and ven-

tured back across the pond.

“We were a little naïve in the past and thought

we could just turn up and open doors,” said CEO

Neil Cli� ord. “We were driven a little bit by [then-

owner] The Jones Group. We had to be quick, and

we thought we could do it all from London. You

can’t. You need people on the ground. Now it’s a

di� erent story for us.”

With the support of Cinven, its fourth

private equity owner, Kurt Geiger will o� cially

make its anticipated stateside return this week.

The U.S. e� ort is just one part of a multipronged

growth push at the company, which expects to

rack up annual revenues of more than 370 million

pounds ($485 million) by the end of 2018.

While many footwear fi rms are putting on the

brakes in a challenging retail climate, Kurt Geiger

is carefully expanding its namesake label into

new global markets and investing in burgeoning

categories like bags and men’s. At the same time,

it continues to nurture its luxury department store

business, which has undergone a seismic shift with

the explosion of the sneaker category. (High heels,

by contrast, have become a harder sell.)

The changing landscape was top of mind for

the company as it formulated its U.S. strategy.

While Kurt Geiger previously targeted the market

with sexy sky-high stilettos, it’s o� ering a much

wider range of heel heights this time around. Price

points are noticeably lower, too, with the sweet

spot between $125 and $165. And bags account for

40 percent of the initial orders, proving that the

company has opportunity beyond shoes.

The launch will include 100

key department stores and online

destinations, including Nordstrom

— Kurt Geiger’s largest partner

during its previous stint in the

U.S. — and Dillard’s, as well as

Zappos.com.

Success won’t be easy during

a particularly challenging time for

retail, but the company is taking a distinctive

approach to help it compete e� ectively in a

fast-changing climate.

For one thing, it has no immediate plans

to open stores. Instead, it aims to establish a

sizable wholesale presence and is ramping up

e-commerce and digital marketing. A showroom

is open for business on lower Fifth Avenue in

New York, and warehouses on both coasts are

set up to facilitate deliveries.

“We had to understand how to make the

brand commercially viable, how to make the

shoes better and price them properly,” said

Steven Sousa, a former top Michael Kors exec,

who joined Kurt Geiger as international director

Her favorite ensemble from “Dynasty”: “There are so many out� ts I loved, but the gray silk jersey wrap dress worn with a fur cape and a matching hat and boots is one of my

favorites. Today, that would be too over-the-top to wear.”

What she looks for in shoes and accessories:“Great workmanship,

elegance and wearability, and shoes and bags that are versatile.”

Celebrities she admires: “Cate Blanchett has enormous style.”

What out� ts she would pair shoes from the campaign with: “Monochromatic dresses or suits. They are the de� nition of versatility. I could wear them to the

Wolseley at lunch as well as the Chiltern Firehouse at dinner.”

Whom she would choose to play herself in a movie:“She hasn’t been born yet!”

W

JUST JOANJoan Collins, one of the stars of Kurt Geiger’s

“Characters” campaign, on “Dynasty” shoe moments, her personal style and more.

The launch will include 100

key department stores and online

destinations, including Nordstrom

— Kurt Geiger’s largest partner

during its previous stint in the

U.S. — and Dillard’s, as well as

Success won’t be easy during

Inside Kurt Geiger’s new

boutique at Selfridges

PH

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With the support of Cinven, its fourth

JUST JOANJoan Collins, one of the stars of Kurt Geiger’s

“Characters” campaign, on “Dynasty” shoe moments, her personal style and more.

21

last year as part of a

major talent push.

Michelle Ryan,

who previously held

roles at Jimmy Choo

and Burberry, came

on board as buying director, while

Giuseppe Guillot, formerly of Yoox.com, is

now overseeing sourcing and logistics. “When

you get new talent, the too-di� cult pile becomes

smaller,” Cli ord said. “We had a lot of things

we needed to get done but didn’t have the

bandwidth or experience to do them.”

While the beefed-up team has been

working hard behind the scenes, it is determined

to bring the brand to the forefront through a

digitally focused global campaign — its

biggest advertising e ort to date. An eclectic

group of British characters star in the ads,

including veteran actress Joan Collins, eccentric

designer Zandra Rhodes, models Alex Wek, Alice

Dellal and Reece King, among others. (For more

on Collins, see sidebar.)

“We wanted the message to be about inclusiv-

ity,” said Rebecca Farrar-Hockley, Kurt Geiger’s

longtime chief creative o� cer. “Although everyone

is British, we celebrated diversity, with people of

all di erent skin colors and at every age. In fash-

ion, there’s no age limit.”

As the brand works to build more awareness

globally, the campaign will be a crucial part of

connecting with consumers.

Celebrity endorsements have also proved to

be valuable, both in generating buzz and fueling

sales. Last December, Meghan Markle paired

Kurt Geiger’s black over-the-knee boots with a

navy wool maxi coat and midi skirt for her fi rst

o� cial royal engagement with Prince Harry in

Nottingham, England.

“An item like [Markle’s boots], which retails

for about $295, is [a great value for consumers].

It shows that we can produce good-quality

product at a competitive price,” Cli ord said.

Kendall Jenner has also given her stamp of

approval to $195 white ankle boots from the

brand (see opposite page). The model wore them

about a dozen times last year, leading to a surge

in demand and prompting them to sell out.

“Kendall is, by far, the biggest millennial sales

driver,” Ryan said.

While women’s has always been the priority,

the brand is turning its attention to men’s, a

category that has also taken o for the com-

pany’s luxury partners. “We’re pushing ourselves

to have more fashion,” Cli ord said, noting that

the male shopper is particularly engaged in the

label’s airport stores. “We owe it to ourselves to

do a better job with men’s.”

T H E L U X U R Y R E T A I L E Q U A T I O N

Kurt Geiger’s most powerful weapon has always

been its diverse business model, which has allowed

the company to weather tough times more e ec-

tively than its competitors.

While its own brands have clearly become

more important, Kurt Geiger continues to stand

out as one of the most formidable high-end

retail forces. (Its department store business with

Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty and others accounts

for 40 percent of overall revenues.)

“They’re fabulous at creating something

unique for each of their destinations. Their big-

gest strength is the ability to see where the com-

mercial successes lie,” said retail veteran David

Walker-Smith, chief product and trading o� cer

for House of Fraser.

At Selfridges, the company has been at the

center of a dramatic shoe evolution. “Kurt Geiger

shares our vision to make retail exciting again,”

said Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising

director at the London-based department store.

“They are always open to partnering with us and

creating innovative concepts.”

The companies saw huge growth potential in

the booming luxury sneaker market and teamed

up on a 1,776-square-foot standalone space in

the London fl agship. Opened in February, it is

positioned within the huge second-fl oor Shoe

Galleries. There are more than 700 sneaker

styles available for purchase —

spread out over two sections.

“We started talking about that

together three years ago. Our

partnership is almost like a joint

venture. [Kurt Geiger under-

stands] how to manage a business,”

Manes said.

Last month, the company also made a splash

with the debut of its branded shop-in-shop on the

Selfridges fl oor. Designed by London architect

Jamie Fobert, it features a natural color palette

detailed with dusty-pink and metallic-bronze

accents. Shoes, some of which are exclusive to

Selfridges, are showcased on natural leaf forms

that refl ect the city’s green spaces.

Next up: the unveiling of a new Manolo Blahnik

boutique, which will occupy the former Christian

Louboutin space in a prime corner location on the

fl oor (Louboutin is relocating).

“It’s going to be a very di erent space than

before and a new way of displaying [our shoes],”

said Kristina Blahnik, CEO of Manolo Blahnik

International. “Neil and Rebecca, and their team,

have always been approachable and willing to

think outside the box.”

Cli ord and his execs are also working with

Harrods to continually evolve its shoe business. He

hinted that there is room for more growth within

the Shoe Heaven women’s concept, and a men’s

project is in the works as well.

“We are reinvesting and growing our space in

both Selfridges and Harrods,” Cli ord said, noting

that digital expansion is one of the biggest oppor-

tunities for both stores.

Across the portfolio, Kurt Geiger continues to

build its presence with shoe stalwarts like Blahnik

and Gianvito Rossi, and ready-to-wear juggernauts

such as Gucci, Balenciaga and Valentino. But it’s

equally passionate about fi nding the next big stars.

Farrar-Hockley said one player that is

rapidly rising in the department store busi-

ness is Malone Souliers — which is attracting a

diverse group of consumers who hail from many

di erent countries.

“Kurt Geiger has consistently worked with us to

develop intelligence on what works best for which

consumer at each specifi c point of sale,” said Roy

Luwolt, founder of Malone Souliers, who hinted

that additional expansion plans with the retailer

are in the pipeline. “This sits in line perfectly

with the strategy of the brand — we don’t want to

assume [what the customer wants]. We prefer to

listen, learn and respond.”

T H E R O A D A H E A D Armed with valuable experience, Kurt Geiger is

banking on a smoother ride in the U.S. market. But

it’s also determined to play on the global stage and

is eyeing the Middle East, Australia and Europe in

a major way.

“Cinven has encouraged us to think bigger,

and that’s a good thing,” Cli ord said. Still, the

company is careful not to “overburden itself with

debt,” the CEO said, noting that the board owns a

signifi cant chunk of the company.

The fi ckle economy and potential impact

of Brexit will undoubtedly continue to create

uncertainties for the brand. The weakening of

the pound has benefi ted Kurt Geiger in the short

term, but the company understands that change

is inevitable.

“It’s about speed, innovation and agility,” Clif-

ford said. “As we grow, we don’t want to lose

our entrepreneurial spirit.”

“WE HAD A LOT OF THINGS WE

NEEDED TO GET DONE BUT DIDN’T HAVE THE BANDWIDTH

OR EXPERIENCE TO DO THEM.”

— Neil Clifford

last year as part of a

major talent push.

Michelle Ryan,

who previously held

roles at Jimmy Choo

on board as buying director, while

styles available for purchase —

spread out over two sections.

“We started talking about that

together three years ago. Our

partnership is almost like a joint

venture. [Kurt Geiger under-

stands] how to manage a business,”

uncertainties for the brand. The weakening of

the pound has benefi ted Kurt Geiger in the short

term, but the company understands that change

is inevitable.

“It’s about speed, innovation and agility,” Clif-

ford said. “As we grow, we don’t want to lose

our entrepreneurial spirit.”

NeilCli� ord

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F a s h i o n E d i t o r S h a n n o n A d d u c c i

Embellished heels, boots and fl ats are all locked in with buckle hardware that gives any type of shoe a chic silhouette.

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C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : J I M M Y C H O O

L a r i s s a g l i t t e r s p o t t e d v e l v e t h e e l

w i t h p e a r l b u c k l e s

R O G E R V I V I E R D i a d e m C r o w n

s a t i n b e l t a n d B a b V i v ’ S t r a s s s u e d e

B a b o u c h e l o a f e r

A Q U A Z Z U R AC a s a b l a n c a s u e d e

a n d P V C s a n d a l

R O G E R V I V I E R c r u s h e d v e l v e t c l u t c h a n d P i l g r i m s a t i n b e l t

A D E A M p o i n t e d m u l e

i n C a p p u c c i n o

C H L O E G O S S E L I N C a t e s t r i p e d p u m p

R O G E R V I V I E R F l o w e r S t r a s s s a t i n b e l t

25

F r o m t o p :R U P E R T S A N D E R S O N s u e d e Ve d e t t e f l a t i n S u n r i s e

G I A N V I T O R O S S Il e a t h e r f l a t w i t h b u c k l e d e t a i l s

Y U U L Y I Ep a t e n t l e a t h e r p u m p

L A C O S T E a n d J . C R E W b e l t s

26

F r o m t o p : F R AT E L L I R O S S E T T I b r u s h e d c a l f s k i n d e r b y s h o e

N O . 2 1c o n t r a s t l e a t h e r c r e e p e r

27

K O C H É p a t e n t l e a t h e r k n e e b o o t

08.13ISSUE CLOSE

08.01BONUS DISTRIBUTION

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DON’T MISS A THINGYour Ultimate Guide to the Brands, Styles and Trends to Place

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Erdem Moralioglu is known for ultrafeminine Victorian-inspired frocks, so his new casual sneakers come as a bit of a surprise. The designer is debuting rubber-soled slip-ons in his resort collection, using materials as luxe as his ready-to-wear, such as this

pink velvet, punctuated with a sensuous knot.

FANCY FEET01/Shoeof the Week

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DUE NORTHCanadian men’s brand Brother x Frère, known for contempo-rary men’s styles that include sneakers and dress looks, is launching in the U.S. for fall ’18. Founded by industry veteran Nick Germano in 2016, the line is made in Portugal and retails for $200 to $350. “It fi lls the white space between volume and designer [footwear],” said Germano, who targets customers of all ages. Set to deliver in August, the line is aimed at independent stores.

ADAMS FAMILY Men’s brand Stacy Adams is stepping up its game for spring ’19 with the addition of Turchino, a line of more upscale fashion-forward dress looks set to retail from $200 to $215. The collection includes a range of styles in-cluding laceups, monk straps and Chelsea boots built on a Goodyear-welt construction and set on leather soles. Made in India, the shoes will deliver in April to better men’s specialty stores.

SET STOREItalian luxury lifestyle brand Bruno Magli is readying to open a 2,000-square-foot concept store in New York’s Soho neighborhood on Sept. 1. It follows the 2017 debut of a location in Miami, the label’s fi rst in the U.S. since it was acquired by Marquee Brands in 2015. The company plans to use the space to host cultural and artistic events. Additional stores are slated to open in the U.S., joining the more than 50 Bruno Magli stores worldwide.

How I prepared for my current role:“I studied accounting and economics in undergraduate school. After working for sev-eral years, I went back for an MBA and law degree. Under-standing numbers and how the various elements of busi-ness fi t together allows me to make decisions quickly.”

My leadership style: “I work hard and have a lot of passion. I ask a lot of questions, probably driving everyone crazy. I don’t ask others to do anything that I’m not willing to do. My cell num-ber and o� ce are available to all employees. All great things require a team.”

What I look for in employees:“We fi rst look internally [to fi ll spots]. Even if someone

doesn’t have the education in an area, if they are a great employee and expressed interest in learning a [new job], we’ll take a chance on them. You can always teach the skills a team member needs. But someone who’s just looking for a paycheck and doesn’t have passion for the job is never going to help create greatness.”

Most challenging part of my job:“Our location in San Antonio, Texas, has its pluses and minuses. There’s a percep-tion we’re really not in the fashion business because we’re [located] on the fringe. When we recruit people living in New York, they might ask if they can commute. Not really. [However], if we can get someone to spend time

here, [then] it’s not usually an issue.”

My greatest mentor: “My father. He showed me hard work is the surest path to success. He had his own business as an oil distributor and for a long time worked seven days a week. He also showed me the importance of giving back to those less fortunate. He made an e� ort to help [others], whether it was because they didn’t have enough or they needed help starting a business.”

Advice for women in the industry: “It’s important to know what’s important to you. That knowl-edge will be invaluable in making career decisions. You can’t lead others if you don’t know who you are.”

Proudest moment in my career: “When people who’ve worked for me reach out to [say] what a positive impact I had on their careers and lives. [For example], someone I worked with when I was [practicing law] has been nominated for the federal bench.”

Biggest change in the industry:“Counterfeits. It’s easy for someone to pull a picture from our website and [post] it online as the product they’re selling. Since it’s an online sale, the consumer often doesn’t have any way to return it. People have reached out to us saying they’ve bought our shoe online, and it’s awful. We say to send it to us, [only to fi nd] we didn’t make it.”

O� -Hours Plans “I enjoy traveling.

It’s crucial to understanding the world and people, and inspires my creativity. There’s almost nothing I haven’t done — drawing, painting, mosaics, needlepoint, quilting, sewing.”

Dream Job “In my fantasy world,

when I retire, I’d like to be the director of the Victoria & Albert Museum or CEO of Sotheby’s. They’re surrounded by art and beauty all day.”

02/LeaderBoard

03/ Buzz

FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

NANCY RICHARDSONThe CEO of San Antonio Shoemakers prides herself on encouraging employees to take on challenges and giving back to others.By Barbara Schneider-Levy

30

Bruno Maglistorefront

03/ Buzz

Brother x Frerecrepe-sole shoe

CLOSE AND PERSONAL The busy executive reveals a bit of her creative side.

Men’s shoe brand Taft cultivated a consumer roster of NBA stars and professional urbanites with its timeless look. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

DRESSED FOR SUCCESS

Styles from thecurrent Taft

collection

04/One to Watch

When Kory Stevens was named best dressed in high school, it kicked o� his fashion career.

In 2015, Stevens and his wife, Mallory, stepped into the shoe business with the launch of Taft, a direct-to-consumer men’s footwear brand that’s expected to hit sales of $20 million this year, with another 50 percent increase projected for 2019.

The collection is designed by Kory Stevens, 28, who received on-the-job training at factories in Portugal and Spain, where the shoes are made.

“I try to design very wearable, timeless shoes that aren’t crazy, so you don’t wear them once and toss them,” said the entrepreneur, who credits his fashion designer mother for his career choice. “She helped me to understand why looking good is important.”

Taft’s best-selling shoe is the Jack Boot, a cap-toe style in leather and wool. Other popular looks include the Lucca, a double monk strap, and the Kennedy, a wool cap-toe oxford. All shoes in the line retail for under $350.

Stevens’ footwear journey began in 2014 when he launched an online sock company fi nanced through Kickstarter. But due to product limitations, he soon moved into shoes, funding the venture with preorders taken on the sock site, Taftclothing.com.

According to Stevens, the foot-wear collection quickly garnered a following among celebrities, athletes and the fi nancial community.

The key, he explained, was the company’s online savvy. “We are digital natives and built on social media,” said Stevens. “We have an Instagram account of about 400,000

followers, with a lot of athletes. They buy shoes, tag us, and I’ve become friends with them.”

Just a year ago, Taft was a $5 mil-lion business operating out of the Stevens’ home. Today, it has a sta� of nine and an o� cial headquarters in Provo, Utah.

The company recently raised $5

million in a seed round, led by the Kickstart Seed Fund, with participa-tion by other venture capital fi rms and NBA stars Dwyane Wade and Andre Iguodala. To continue to build the business and connect with customers, Taft plans to open a pop-up store in New York in November. ❚ P

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05/SpringTrend

RAINBOW CONNECTION

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The season’s freshest sandals and sneakersfor girls are bursting with bright colors, and they are pure ’80s nostalgia.

Mini Melissa’s multicolored fl ex PVC slide sandal

Katy Perry’s lace-up sneaker with hologram e� ect

Hanna Anderssonembraces the rainbow trend

FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

Platform sandal with rainbow-colored translucent straps by Mia

hologram e� ect

Platform sandal with

Slip-on sneaker with rainbow wave print by Chooze

Gladiator-inspired zip-back sandal by Nina

Stride Rite’s athletic shoe with ombré color e� ect

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“We made sure [the look

would] resonate everywhere,

from department stores to

the internet,” said Eric Har-

rison. “Once we knew we

had it right, we invested in

inventory so we could [bet-

ter] service our customers.”

That market intel has

paid o� . The fi rm’s CEO said

the core business is “well-

When husband-and-wife fashion reps Mickey and Reneé Harrison borrowed $1,000

from a bank in 1978 to start women’s dress shoe brand J. Reneé, they didn’t know

how far the money would stretch. ➵ But they certainly made the most of the loan and

turned their startup into a healthy business now run by sons Eric, who serves as CEO of

parent company J. Reneé Group, and Kai, who is creative director. ➵ Like many family

businesses, the Carrollton, Texas-based fi rm has had its shares of ups and downs. ➵ “Business had been very tough [a few years ago],” said Eric Harrison. “Retail was going

through a lot of changes. The internet was growing, a� ecting brick-and-mortar. And

people were not spending money. Since we carried [deep] inventory, we [had] a prob-

lem.” ➵ The brothers began to turn things around with a revitalized emphasis on sales

and product. To help with that e� ort, they hired industry veteran Mark Diehl as EVP of

defi ned, and it’s on fi re.”

J. Reneé is also strength-

ening its retail partnerships

— which range from Dil-

lard’s, Nordstrom and Belk

to online retailers including

Zappos and select indepen-

dents — with the spring ’18

launch of casuals under the

companion J. Reneé@Play

label, retailing from $100

to $150.

Dan Ungar, owner of

Mar-Lou Shoes in Lynd-

hurst, Ohio, which has been

carrying J. Reneé dress

shoes for 30 years, is con-

sidering the addition of the

casuals for next spring.

“We’re excited to take a

hard look at J. Reneé@Play

because they’re going to be

the logical extension for the

J. Reneé customer who’s

now dressing down in a

casual way,” he said.

Before entering the casual

arena, the Harrisons dipped

into the category with the

2015 acquisition of fashion-

comfort brand L’Amour Des

Pieds. That line focuses on

more upscale contemporary

looks retailing from $190 to

$250 and opened the door

to distribution in better-tier

independents.

Today, L’Amour Des

Pieds, led by founder Wayne

Finkelstein, accounts for 20

percent of J. Reneé’s sales.

“We try to fi ll every need in

a woman’s closet,” Finkel-

stein said about its o� ering

of fl ats, heels and wedges

designed for younger

customers looking for an

alternative to sneakers.

At Tip Top Shoes in New

York, owner Danny Was-

serman said L’Amour Des

sales, as well as a lineup of

new sales reps.

Next, Eric and Kai

Harrison set out to refresh

J. Reneé’s o� ering of dress

looks with more contempo-

rary styling and an infusion

of comfort. But to ensure

that they got it right, the

duo test-marketed the

updated styles at retail.

How one 40-year-old family-run business plans to appeal to contemporary customers. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

THE J WALK06/Case Study

Dressy fall ’18slingbacks by

J. Reneé

“We made sure [the look

would] resonate everywhere, from

department stores to the internet.”

— ERIC HARRISON,J. RENEÉ

33FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

WEDDING MARCHYou don’t have to be a duchess to have custom wedding shoes. Brenna Butner, manager and buyer for E.G. Geller in Dallas, walked down the aisle on July 28 in J. Reneé pumps designed by its creative director, Kai Harrison. “I tried on some different lasts, found the one that fit me the best, then he drew up a sketch,” said Butner, whose store is a longtime customer. The result: an ivory tulle style with ruching overlay. According to Butner, Harrison even engraved the newlyweds’ names on the sole.

Pieds attracts customers

who understand the balance

between fashion, quality

and fi t. “[It o� ers] unique

kinds of shoes while also

some basic looks in new

materials,” said Wasserman,

who ordered its pumps and

higher wedges for fall.

The success of L’Amour

Des Pieds and the addition

of J. Reneé@Play has the

Harrison brothers consider-

ing future brand expansions.

“There could be [other]

acquisitions,” said Eric

Harrison.

J. Reneé is also strength-

ening its retail partnerships

lard’s, Nordstrom and Belk

to online retailers including

Zappos and select indepen-

dents — with the spring ’18

launch of casuals under the

companion J. Reneé@Play WEDDING MARCH

J. Reneé’s tapestry boots

for fall ’18

Butner’s custom

heels

34 FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2018 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 74, NO. 24 JULY 30, 2018. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in January, February, March, May and July, second week in November and December, third week in April and June, fourth week in August, September and December, fifth week in May and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail cus-tomer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscrip-tion price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of print issues in a subscription term, including discontinuing our print format, make substitutions and/or modify the manner in which the subscription is distributed. You have the right to cancel at any time and receive a full refund of any unused portion of your current subscription term. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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PickPickPostScriptCall it fashion that sticks. Singer Hailee Steinfeld turned up in a colorful ensemble for a Post-it event in New York last Monday. The 21-year-old, who recently fi nished her tour with Katy Perry, embraced the white carpet-themed event with an oversized white button-down featuring paint-splattered details and a pair of pointy-toed pumps from Aquazzura in the same milky fi nish.

ensemble for a Post-it event in New York last Monday. The

carpet-themed event with an oversized white button-down

toed pumps from Aquazzura

BARETRAPS IS excited TO INTRODUCE A

premium leather brand

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return trip · wearing the bow trend week of july 30 the newly minted gosselin: duchess of sussex,...

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