restaurantsct 2009 review - jacques larsen

3
Silver S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b I n R i d g e f i e l d — H o w T h e O t h e r Half L i v e s « C o n n e c t i c u t F o o . . . Page 2 o f 7 Silver Spring Country Club In Ridgefield—How The Other Half Lives By F r a n k C o h e n M o n d a y M a y 2 5 , 2009 The idea behind my frequent blogging is to share with readers m y c u l i n a r y a d v e n t u r e s g r e a t a n d s m a l l . As one who eats out virtually every day o f the year, those experiences run the gamut from casual to formal, from i m p r o m p t u t o p l a n n e d , from c o n v e n t i o n a l t o c u t t i n g - e d g e , from i n e x p e n s i v e t o priceless. S o m e e x p e r i e n c e s readers may be able to duplicate; others they may only be able to enjoy vicariously. I p r o b a b l y h a v e little i n c o m m o n with t h e c o u n t r y c l u b s e t — i n i n c o m e , i n t a s t e , i n i d e o l o g y , i n a n y t h i n g . But once in a rare while, I find myself dining at a country club as some friend or other's guest. A n d as a rule, I have found country club fare to be pretty good, pretty consistent a n d p r e t t y i n s i p i d . Those who can afford the country club experience s h o u l d c o u n t t h e m s e l v e s f o r t u n a t e . B u t s o m e club members a r e m o r e f o r t u n a t e t h a n o t h e r s . A n d m e m b e r s of Silver S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b i n R i d g e f i e l d are m o r e f o r t u n a t e t h a n m o s t . T h e y ' r e f o r t u n a t e because t h e i r e n l i g h t e n e d m a n a g e m e n t h i r e d a n exceptional restaurant t e a m i n e x e c u t i v e c h e f Jacques L a r s e n ( c e n t e r ) , sous c h e f R o b e r t F r a s e r (left) a n d d i n i n g r o o m manager Karl Anderson (right). They're also fortunate in that their big beautiful kitchen is one of the best-organized and cleanest t h a t I h a v e v i s i t e d . T h e y ' r e f o r t u n a t e because the country club carries El Fomo breads and other products from S p a i n . T h e y ' r e f o r t u n a t e because they have fresh herbs g r o w i n g i n t h e k i t c h e n . G o o d f o o d doesn't m a g i c a l l y m a t e r i a l i z e . I t h a s t o c o m e from g o o d p r o d u c t s i n a g o o d setting. http://www.restaurantsct.com/blog/silver-spring-country-club-in-ridgefield%E2%80%94h... 8/21/2011 C r a f t s t e a k , M G M G r a n d A t F o x w o o d s , Mashantucket Winvian, Morris

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Page 1: RestaurantsCT 2009 Review - Jacques Larsen

S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b I n R i d g e f i e l d — H o w T h e O t h e r H a l f L i v e s « C o n n e c t i c u t F o o . . . P a g e 2 o f 7

S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b I n R i d g e f i e l d — H o w T h e O t h e r H a l f L i v e s

B y F r a n k C o h e n M o n d a y M a y 2 5 , 2 0 0 9

T h e i d e a b e h i n d m y f r e q u e n t b l o g g i n g i s t o s h a r e w i t h r e a d e r s m y c u l i n a r y a d v e n t u r e s g r e a t a n d s m a l l . A s o n e w h o e a t s o u t v i r t u a l l y e v e r y d a y o f t h e y e a r , t h o s e e x p e r i e n c e s r u n t h e g a m u t f r o m c a s u a l t o f o r m a l , f r o m i m p r o m p t u t o p l a n n e d , f r o m c o n v e n t i o n a l t o c u t t i n g - e d g e , f r o m i n e x p e n s i v e t o p r i c e l e s s . S o m e e x p e r i e n c e s r e a d e r s m a y b e a b l e t o d u p l i c a t e ; o t h e r s t h e y m a y o n l y b e a b l e t o e n j o y v i c a r i o u s l y .

I p r o b a b l y h a v e l i t t l e i n c o m m o n w i t h t h e c o u n t r y c l u b s e t — i n i n c o m e , i n t a s t e , i n i d e o l o g y , i n a n y t h i n g . B u t o n c e i n a r a r e w h i l e , I f i n d m y s e l f d i n i n g a t a c o u n t r y c l u b as s o m e f r i e n d o r o t h e r ' s g u e s t . A n d as a r u l e , I h a v e f o u n d c o u n t r y c l u b f a r e t o b e p r e t t y g o o d , p r e t t y c o n s i s t e n t a n d p r e t t y i n s i p i d .

T h o s e w h o c a n a f f o r d t h e c o u n t r y c l u b e x p e r i e n c e s h o u l d c o u n t t h e m s e l v e s f o r t u n a t e . B u t s o m e c l u b m e m b e r s a r e m o r e f o r t u n a t e t h a n o t h e r s . A n d m e m b e r s o f S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b i n R i d g e f i e l d a r e m o r e f o r t u n a t e t h a n m o s t . T h e y ' r e f o r t u n a t e b e c a u s e t h e i r e n l i g h t e n e d m a n a g e m e n t h i r e d a n e x c e p t i o n a l r e s t a u r a n t t e a m i n e x e c u t i v e c h e f J a c q u e s L a r s e n ( c e n t e r ) , s o u s c h e f R o b e r t F r a s e r ( l e f t ) a n d d i n i n g r o o m m a n a g e r K a r l A n d e r s o n ( r i g h t ) .

T h e y ' r e a l s o f o r t u n a t e i n t h a t t h e i r b i g b e a u t i f u l k i t c h e n i s o n e o f t h e b e s t - o r g a n i z e d a n d c l e a n e s t t h a t I h a v e v i s i t e d . T h e y ' r e f o r t u n a t e b e c a u s e t h e c o u n t r y c l u b c a r r i e s E l F o m o b r e a d s a n d o t h e r p r o d u c t s f r o m S p a i n . T h e y ' r e f o r t u n a t e b e c a u s e t h e y h a v e f r e s h h e r b s g r o w i n g i n t h e k i t c h e n . G o o d f o o d d o e s n ' t m a g i c a l l y m a t e r i a l i z e . I t h a s t o c o m e f r o m g o o d p r o d u c t s i n a g o o d s e t t i n g .

h t t p : / / w w w . r e s t a u r a n t s c t . c o m / b l o g / s i l v e r - s p r i n g - c o u n t r y - c l u b - i n - r i d g e f i e l d % E 2 % 8 0 % 9 4 h . . . 8 / 2 1 / 2 0 1 1

C r a f t s t e a k , M G M G r a n d A t F o x w o o d s , M a s h a n t u c k e t

W i n v i a n , M o r r i s

Page 2: RestaurantsCT 2009 Review - Jacques Larsen

S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b I n R i d g e f i e l d — H o w T h e O t h e r H a l f L i v e s « C o n n e c t i c u t F o o . . P a g e 3 o f 7

I t ' s j u s t i n t h e l a s t y e a r o r t w o t h a t I h a v e b e c o m e friends w i t h J a c q u e s , b u t i t t u r n s o u t t h a t I ' v e b e e n a c q u a i n t e d w i t h h i s f o o d a l o t l o n g e r . I g a v e J a c q u e s a g l o w i n g r e v i e w p e r h a p s 1 0 y e a r s a g o w h e n h e w a s t h e c h e f o f t h e I n n a t R i d g e f i e l d . A n d i n r e c e n t m o n t h s , h e h a s c o o k e d f o o d f o r m e r i g h t b e f o r e m y e y e s , a n d a l l I c a n s a y i s h e ' s o n e f a s t i d i o u s a n d t a l e n t e d i n d i v i d u a l .

O n a r e c e n t v i s i t t o t h e S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b , I t a s t e d J a c q u e s ' g r i l l e d P o r t u g u e s e o c t o p u s w i t h w a r m p o t a t o s a l a d , m a c h e a n d t r u f f l e v i n a i g r e t t e ( w o w ! ) as w e l l a s h i s t w o - w a y d u c k l i n g o f r o a s t e d d u c k b r e a s t a n d d u c k l e g c o n f i t . S a v o y c a b b a g e a n d p o m e g r a n a t e s y r u p ( d o u b l e w o w ! ) . O b v i o u s l y , t h e s e a r e n o t t y p i c a l c o u n t r y - c l u b o f f e r i n g s . U n f o r t u n a t e l y , I d i d n ' t t a k e a p h o t o o f e i t h e r . H o w e v e r , I d i d s n a p p h o t o s o f h i s b e e f c a r p a c c i o w i t h a r u g u l a , e n d i v e , s h a v e d p e c o r i n o , e x t r a v i r g i n o l i v e o i l a n d f l e u r d e s e l

a s w e l l a s h i s s i g n a t u r e C a e s a r s a l a d w i t h h e a r t s o f r o m a i n e , f r e s h a n c h o v i e s , h e r b c r o u t o n s a n d P a r m e s a n d i s k s .

h t t p : / / v v r w w . r e s t a u r a n t s c t . c o r n A ) l o g / s i l v e r - s p r i n g - c o u n t r y - c l u b - i n - r i d g e f i e l d % E 2 % 8 0 % 9 4 h . . . 8 / 2 1 / 2 0 1 1

Page 3: RestaurantsCT 2009 Review - Jacques Larsen

S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b I n R i d g e f i e l d — H o w T h e O t h e r H a l f L i v e s « C o n n e c t i c u t F o o . . . P a g e 4 o f 7

T w o o t h e r i t e m s t h a t I t r i e d r e a l l y i m p r e s s e d m e . O n e w a s a b o w l o f J a c q u e s ' s w e e t s p r i n g g a r l i c s o u p w i t h s h i i t a k e m u s h r o o m , a s p a r a g u s c r i s p a n d f r e s h t h y m e .

T h e s e c o n d w a s a s a m p l e o f J a c q u e s ' p a n - s e a r e d d i v e r s c a l l o p w i t h m u s h r o o m , g r a p e t o m a t o a n d v e r j u s . I n c r e d i b l e !

A p p a r e n t l y , t h e m e m b e r s h i p i s t h r i l l e d w i t h t h e o v e r a l l q u a l i t y o f J a c q u e s ' f o o d a n d t h e a d d i t i o n o f s o m e i m a g i n a t i v e o f f e r i n g s t h a t w o u l d b e a p p r o p r i a t e i n a n y o f C o n n e c t i c u t ' s f i n e s t r e s t a u r a n t s . S i n c e S i l v e r S p r i n g C o u n t r y C l u b i s n ' t o p e n t o t h e p u b l i c , m o s t r e a d e r s ' c h a n c e s o f t r y i n g J a c q u e s ' f o o d a r e n ' t g r e a t . I f y o u k n o w a n y o n e w h o ' s a m e m b e r , n o w w o u l d b e a g o o d t i m e t o r e a c h o u t t o t h e m . A n d i f y o u ' r e a m e m b e r o f a n o t h e r c o u n t r y c l u b , y o u m i g h t w a n t t o l o b b y y o u r m a n a g e m e n t t o a d o p t a s i m i l a r l y e n l i g h t e n e d o u t l o o k .

h t t p : / / w w w . r e s t a u r a n t s c t . c o m / b l o g / s i l v e r - s p r i n g - c o u n t r y - c l u b - i n - r i d g e f i e l d % E 2 % 8 0 % 9 4 h . . . 8 / 2 1 / 2 0 1 1