responsible leather round table summit 2020 · 2020. 12. 16. · responsible leather round table...

Responsible Leather Round Table

Summit 2020


Summit 2020

Thank you to our 2020 Conference Sponsors:

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Summit 2020

Soil Health Biodiversity Water


Summit 2020 #TextileExchange20

OUR MISSIONTextile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate adoption of preferred materials in the textile value

chain. We focus on carbon reduction, soil health, water and biodiversity as part of our holistic approach to

drive positive impact for the entire industry.

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2030 we aspire to guide the textile industry to reduce GHG emissions (CO2 equivalents) by 45% from a 2020

baseline.

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based solutions, and a community that can do what no single company or organization can do alone.


Summit 2020

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Responsible Leather Round Table Summit

December 15, 2020



Meet the Team

Stefanie PokorskiInnovations & Standards

Senior Coordinator

Anna HeatonChair of Animal Welfare

Committee

Anne GillespieDirector of Impact

Acceleration

Larysa ValachkoImpact Coordinator

Josefina EiseleChair of Deforestation/

Conversion-free committeeDeborah TaylorCo-Chair of Leather

Production Committee

Nicole LambertChair of Leather

Production Committee



• Welcome

• Industry updates

• Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA)

• Impact Incentives update

• RLRT and the Climate+ Strategy

• Textile Exchange Climate+ Strategy

• Leather and Beef: Impacts and Opportunities

• Break

• How to Move Forward

• Brainstorming/discussion

• Close

Agenda



Welcome

Using the Zoom chat box:

Please say ‘Hello!” in the different languages that you speak

Then tell us:

• Which country you are in, and

• How long it has been since you last saw a real, live cow?



Industry Updates



Industry Updates – Covid-19 Impacts

• Various degrees of impact in different countries but overall global leather production has

dropped by between 20% - 30% on average as a result of reduced operations and demand.

• The worst affected have been the low income – high producing countries like India where

facilities were not equipped to deal with a whole industry shutdown

• Increased online sales - fewer losses than anticipated



Industry Updates – COTANCE SER 2020

• Social Environmental Report 2020:

✓ an update on the first report (2013)

✓ key social and environmental indicators for the leather

industry in Europe.

✓ available in different languages

• European Social Environmental Report – Euroleather

• Short video summaries:

• COTANCE European Leather Association - YouTube

Confederation of National Associations of Tanners and Dressers

of the European Community (COTANCE)

https://www.euroleather.com/news/projects/european-social-environmental-report

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClrf-cd5f5l6BzV7raRAOcA/videos



Industry Updates – PNAS Report

• Insightful report on beef exports from Brazil (December 3, 2020):

• valuable information and metrics for sourcing and procurement of

raw materials

• The full report available:

The origin, supply chain, and deforestation risk of Brazil’s beef

exports | PNAS

Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United

States of America (PNAS)

https://www.pnas.org/content/early/2020/11/30/2003270117



Industry Updates – UK News: England & Wales Ban Live Exports

• The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs

(Defra) proposed to ban the export of live animals for

slaughter and fattening from England and Wales.

• The plans (which do not currently include Scotland) enter

into a joint eight-week consultation

• The full report available:

• England and Wales to ban live animal exports in European

first | Live exports | The Guardian

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2020/dec/03/uk-to-become-first-country-in-europe-to-ban-live-animal-exports



Factsheet Example• New Website – ‘Get the Facts, Understand

Leather’ https://www.leathernaturally.org/

• Metcha Leather Inspirational Platform

https://metcha.com/

Industry Updates - Leather Naturally – 2020 Highlights

https://www.leathernaturally.org/

https://metcha.com/



Industry Updates

• A new campaign: “Real Leather. Stay Different”

• More information:

https://chooserealleather.com/real-leather/sustainable-

leather-international-campaign/

Sustainable Leather Foundation

• Fabrizio Nuti: New President of the Italian

Leather Industry Association.

• More information:

• ASSEMBLEA UNIC – CONCERIE ITALIANE

https://chooserealleather.com/real-leather/sustainable-leather-international-campaign/

https://www.unic.it/posts/assemblea-unic-concerie-italiane



Industry Updates – UNECE Transparency & Traceability Project

• To Enhance Transparency & Traceability for

Sustainable Value Chains in the Garment & Footwear

Sectors

• Policy Recommendations are currently open for

public review

• Work on planning for Leather Blockchain Pilot has

started:

https://www.unece.org/tradewelcome/traceability-for-

sustainable-garment-and-footwear.html

https://www.unece.org/tradewelcome/traceability-for-sustainable-garment-and-footwear.html



Industry Updates – Sustainable Leather Foundation

• Industry Led – Consumer Focused approach

• Objectives:

✓ To create a framework that supports and unifies the existing work within the

leather industry.

✓ To support good practice and demonstrate conformance across the leather

manufacturing value chain.

• Focus on 3 pillars of sustainability: Environmental, Social, Governance

• The Audit Standard: pilots during the first quarter of 2021

• QR codes for consumer facing information and a transparent dashboard based

app for value chain participants.

https://www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com/

https://www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com/



Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) Updates



Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) Review



LIA Review



LIA Key Value Propositions

Deforestation/Conversion Free

leather production areas

Addressing animal welfare

through a tiered approach

Focus on process-based

performance over time

Inclusive development

Addressing both environmental and

social aspects of leather production

Opportunity for brands to make claims

about their support for improved practicesLinking brands to farms

Building traceability into the system

Global tool with regional

applicability



Key Updates from LIA



Animal Welfare Standards Benchmark – Key Updates

Slatted flooring:

• Only permitted at baseline and option1 for veal calves - not beef cattle

• Prohibited for all types of cattle at options 2 and 3

• When permitted, must not be bare concrete - can be covered with rubber

matting or be made of alterative materials like plastic

Space in housing:

• Clarification than the space required per 100kg liveweight in Option 2 is the

minimum required for benchmarking, not the specific requirement

Branding:

• Baseline prohibition on face branding remains

• Option 2 prohibition on any branding (unless required by regulation) remains

• New requirement at Option 1 for certifications to cover method and placement

of brands



Animal Welfare Standards Benchmark – Key Updates

The benchmarking process:

• Clarification that a certification must meet the applicable benchmark

requirements for the level it is being benchmarked against

• For example, some requirements are now specific to veal calves or

specific to beef cattle. A certification that only covers beef cattle

does not need to include veal calf standards that match the

benchmark

• Reminder that benchmarking will be done in conjunction with the

certification bodies/standards owners.

• If their standards do not exactly match the LIA benchmark, they will

have to opportunity to demonstrate how their requirements and

audit process meet the same outcomes as LIA.



ALIGNED with SSCI

Leather Production Standards Benchmark – Key Updates

BASED on SSCI

Less prescriptive

• Leather Production Environmental Standards Benchmark: no major changes

SSCI, Version 1.0, PART III - AI: Processing and Manufacturing scope (social)

• Leather Production Social Standards Benchmark:



LIA Claims Guide

• Aligned with Textile Exchange Standards

Claims Policy

• Scripted allowed language

• Only AW Options 2 and 3 may

make claims about ‘animal welfare’

• AW Baseline and Option 1 claims will only

be about animal management/husbandry

LIA Claims & Corporate Commitment – Key Updates

LIA Corporate Commitment

• Now 2 modules:

1. Impact Incentives purchases

2. Supply chain traceability + certification

to LIA-approved standards

• Traceability module to be added when

systems are available

• All modules require annual progress reporting

in the Corporate Fiber and Materials

Benchmark (CFMB)



LIA Release & Voting



LIA Version 0.1 Timeline

VOTE



LIA Version 0.1 will be fully launched and ready for use on January 5th, 2021

About “Version 0.1 and the Pilot Year”

• Implementation of all LIA components will begin.

• Impact Incentives can be traded and claimed during the pilot year.

• We will continue to review feedback and results throughout the year.

• Revisions may be made at the end of the year; if major changes are needed, we will engage

with stakeholders again.

LIA Version 0.1 & “2021 Pilot Year”



LIA 0.1 Core Documents – Voting Now Open!

Farm Level Documents Leather Production Documents


Summit 2020

1. Review the final drafts of the core LIA documents.

2. Make sure you have signed the LIA IWG charter and are a VOTING member.

3. Go the JotForm link: https://form.jotform.com/203244633627251

4. Cast your vote!

A few reminders:

• Only voting members of the LIA IWG may vote. Go to: https://www.jotform.com/TextileExchange/lia-iwg-charter to sign if

you have not already.

• Your votes are for the core LIA benchmark/criteria documents only. We will be continuing to develop and revise

supplemental documents include the LIA Claims Guide, Verification Manual, etc.

How to Vote

https://form.jotform.com/203244633627251

https://www.jotform.com/TextileExchange/lia-iwg-charter


Summit 2020

• You may cast 1 vote for either of the following options:

1. All core LIA documents

2. Individual documents from the core group – relevant

to your area of focus or knowledge (may choose more

than 1)

• A vote of 'agree' means that you are in approval of the final

draft

• A vote of 'disagree' means that you are not in approval of

the final draft

Voting Closes December 22, 2020



Impact Incentives Updates


Summit 2020

VERIFICATION

BODY

INCENTIVES TRADING

PLATFORM

Farm

IMPACT INCENTIVES

IMPACT

PARTNERSHIP

Brands/Retailers

INCENTIVES

IMPACT REPORTSDATA

INCENTIVES

SHARED DATA

DAT

A

• Export data to NGO’s, Governm ent , etc

• Interface w ith thirds part ies

INCENTIVES & DATA

CLAIMS

INCENTIVES

INCENTIVES

Meets

requirem ents?

Data

Yes

FACILITATOR


Summit 2020

FLEXIBILITY CREDIBILITY COLLABORATIONVALUE

SCALE SPEED TRANSPARENCY DATA

www.impactincentives.org

http://www.impactincentives.org/



Impact Incentives

• Impact Incentives Launch – October 26, 2020

• Launch webinar is available at www.impactincentives.org

• Impact Incentives video released (3 minutes)

• ISEAL Landscape Grant

• 2021 Piloting with all members

http://www.impactincentives.org/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUJIDlb3duU


Summit 2020



RLRT and the Climate+ Strategy



Claire Bergkamp

COO, Textile Exchange


Summit 2020

A driving force for urgent climate action

in textile fiber and materials production.

Enabling and guiding the textile industry to

reduce GHG emissions (CO2 equivalents)

45% by 2030 in the pre-spinning phase of

textile fiber and materials production.

Grounded in Partnership+

Soil Health

Biodiversity

Water

+

Amplifying positive impacts in soil

health, water, + biodiversity.


Summit 2020

Grow the industry:

Launching & supporting the adoption of PFM through Market-

driven solutions best practices, traceability, and SC commitments

FROM: Raising Awareness

2002-2020

TO: Accelerating Adoption

2020-2030

Lead the industry:

Prioritize strategy execution by measuring outcomes to

significantly accelerate adoption of PFM and be a leading voice

on industry priorities to close GHG emissions

Standards:

Verify and support the adoption of a portfolio of PFM across 7

standards, over 18,000 certified sites

Fiber Report:

Collect and deliver reports on preferred fiber and material

production and consumption

Funding model:

Shift from grants and industry funds to a membership and

services model in based on membership and certification fees.

Convening / Engagement:

Significant growth across all key activities: Round Tables,

Conference (up to 900+ in 2019), Membership (17– 425+

members)

Comprehensive PFM Guidance:

Lead on problem-solving across the fiber portfolio

Data Rich Communications:

Measuring, benchmarking, and driving PFM evolution with easily

accessible and useful data presentation and sharing

Business models:

Improve and enhance existing funding streams; move toward

highly digital & monetize IP; risk reduction / retention of existing

funding streams

Convening / Partnership:

Prioritize based on solutions to Climate+ outcomes. Focus

disproportionately on partnerships that evidence benefits. Choose

where to follow or support others to lead.

Strategy Pivot


Summit 2020

Baseline: 2019 Emissions

Material Tonnes %

Polyester 57,700,000 52.5%

Cotton 26,000,000 23.7%

Nylon 5,580,000 5.1%

MMCF 7,084,100 6.4%

Wool 1,070,000 1.0%

Down 270,000 0.2%

Other 4,870,216 4.4%

Leather 7,300,000 6.6%

Total 109,874,316 100%

611 million tonnes CO2eFiber Volume 2019

*

* Based on Higg MSI Values – under review


Summit 2020

2030: Portfolio Approach

To

nn

es

CO

2e

BAU: 845.9M tonnes

45%: 336M tonnes

50% preferred cotton

50% rPoly

50% Preferred MMCF**

30% rNylon

20% rWool

20% plant-based materials

Slow growth (1%)

Aggressive

Substitution

Innovation Gap

533.5M tonnes

**estimates based on Lenzing Viscose Ecovero from Europe

Innovations will include expanded

Regenerative and Carbon

Sequestration Practices and

Circular Solutions

BAU: Business as Usual



The Round Table Evolution



New Round Table Structure

Animal Fibersand Materials

Animal FibersRoundtable

Wool

Mohair

Alpaca

Cashmere MSCP MSA

Down

Leather Roundtable



• Wool

• Mohair

• Alpaca

• Cashmere

• Down

• Leather

• Wool

• Mohair

• Alpaca

• Cashmere

• Leather

• Wool

• Mohair

• Alpaca

• Cashmere

• Wool

• Mohair

• Alpaca

• Animal-based

fibers

• Plant-based

fibers

• Animal-based

fibers

• Plant-based

fibers

Animal WelfareClimate beneficial

grazing

Marginalized fiberproducing small holders (social)

Responsible Animal Fiber Standards

Biodiversity Soil Carbon Etc.



The purpose of the Responsible Leather Round Table is

to support Textile Exchange’s sustainability vision with a

focus on the leather industry.

• To promote among our stakeholders understanding

and appropriation of the Textile Exchange Climate+

strategy as a direction for the industry in the next

decade

• To fulfil the shift from discussions to actions and deliver

measurable results annually.

New Terms of Reference: Purpose

https://responsibleleather.org/about/



The objectives of our work are:

• Set meaningful goals that contribute to the overall industry carbon reduction by 45% by 2030, and

address biodiversity, soil health, water and the rights of people and animals.

• Determine how to measure and track progress towards these goals

• Identify and prioritize actions each year of the next decade

• Mobilize the RLRT stakeholders and others to take actions to meet these goals

• To establish partnerships with major players in the industry for collective efforts towards the goals

The Responsible Leather Round Table addresses the full beef/leather value chain, with an emphasis on the

impacts at the farm level.

RLRT Terms of Reference: Objective & Scope



Let's talk about moving forward



Leather & Beef – Impacts & Opportunities



Global Roundtable for Sustainable Beef (GRSB) Goals

The GHG SMART Goal:

Reduce the carbon footprint of each unit of beef by 30% by

2030 on a pathway to climate neutrality.

Be able to report measured progress by 2025

The reason why:

The GRSB commits to delivering climate action across the beef

supply chain to support the urgent global ambition to limit global

temperature rises to 1.5 degrees by

How we’re going to get there:

• Demonstrate and scale climate neutral beef production.

• Safeguard and build upon the carbon stores in soil and

landscapes managed by producers.

Animal

WelfareClimate

Land

Use

Change

TBDTBD

New strategic plan to communicate our ambition

and create an energizing platform to drive further

progress.

To achieve this, we have committed to setting goals

for key sustainability indicators.



Grazing Practices and Carbon Sequestration

https://www.sacredcow.info/helpful-resources



LIA, Impact Incentives, and Climate+

LIA is a tool that enables brands to address their full supply chains. It creates a

credible framework to recognize the actions at the different stages and make

meaningful claims.

Impact Incentives provide the opportunity for fast and direct action to stop

deforestation or conversion, and the give market support for best practices

The Impact Alliance amplifies the impacts across multiple commodities and

creates opportunities for coordinated action (e.g. in target landscapes)

All Impact Incentives support farms that are verified to meet the Accountability Framework definitions of Zero Gross Deforestation or Conversion.

Because the Impact Alliance represents multiple sectors, we have the opportunity to amplify impacts in high-risk landscapes. For example, incentives can be sold for soy, beef and cattle in the Amazon Biome.

DEFORESTATION & CONVERSION-FREE (DCF)

How to make impact happen?

Making impact happen.



How to move forward to Climate+

1. Set our goals

2. Define our measurement system

3. Establish the baseline*

4. Set the strategy – “how”

5. Create an execution plan

6. Execute

7. Review

8. Revise

9. Re-Act

Soil Health

Biodiversity

Water

+



Brainstorming Together



Brainstorming Topics

Goals Measurements Strategy



Goals

Given the disproportionate impact of leather, let’s think about how we set our goal in relation to

the Climate+ goal (45% reduced CO2 emissions from textile fiber and material production by

2030).

1) Which aspects of cattle production do we prioritize?

❑ grazing systems

❑ deforestation and land conversion (DCF)

❑ feed inputs

❑ enteric emissions (methane production)

❑ other



Goals

Given the disproportionate impact of leather, let’s think about how we set our goal in relation to

the Climate+ goal (45% reduced CO2 emissions from textile fiber and material production by

2030).

2) Who should we work with?



Measurements

3. Which industry and global goals most deserve our attention?

❖ SDGs

❖ UNFCCC

❖ Fashion Pact

❖ New York Declaration on Forests

❖ Consumer Goods Forum Zero Net Deforestation Commitment

❖Other?



Measurements

4. Given the different industry and global goals that exist, in addition

to carbon, what do we need to measure and report on for leather?

❖ Biodiversity

❖ Animal Welfare

❖ Ecosystem preservation

❖Water management

❖ Other?



Measurements

5. Are there any specific KPIs that we should look at?



Measurements

❖Delta

Framework

❖Ecological

Outcome

Verification

(EOV) – by

Savory Institute

❖Carbon

Disclosure

Project

❖COOL Farm

Tool

❖Farm Footprint

Calculator

❖Science Based

Targets

❖Gold Standard

6. Which of these data systems should we look at?

Who do we align with to set the baselines?

Data Collection Systems



7. What strategies should we focus on to meet the Climate+ goals

❖ Promote the use of Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA)

❖ Drive Impact Incentives use

❖ Expand the scopes addressed by Impact Incentives

❖ Set leather industry targets

❖ Cross-commodity landscape pilots

❖ Collaboration with GRSB or other industry groups

❖ Other?

Strategy


Summit 2020

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Summit 2020

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