removal and replacement of the 1994 nissan altima ... · removal and replacement of the 1994 nissan...
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http://tiger.towson.edu/~hzaidi1/distributor.htm
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Removal and replacement of the 1994 Nissan Altima Distributor Oil SealNOTE: I’m not responsible for any damage you may cause to yourself or your property as a result ofthe guide. Please take proper safety precautions and further research before taking on this project.
This guide is for educational use only.
This is a side view of the distributor. The top portion is what is inserted into the cam while the bottom is whatfaces out from the right of the engine. No distributor cap is shown. I got this distributor from somebody that
said the bearing was bad. So the distributor was useless to them. Top view – rotor now shown.
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2 of 11 10/19/2007 9:32 AM
Top view – rotor now shown.
The “dust cap” comes off from the distributor when the distributor cap is removed. Shown here is the metaltiming plate as well as shown are 3 screws.
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3 of 11 10/19/2007 9:32 AM
There are no screws that hold the distributor together. The “knob” on the top is machine pressed onto a shaft
that extends the entire length of the distributor. There is no clearance below to use a puller or appropriate
device to remove the “knob” without damaging the top plate. The only way I found was to use two wrenches.
Position one wrench on the bottom of the distributor to keep it from turning. Position the other wrench on the
top. Use some sort of cloth or cardboard to keep from damaging the “knob”. I tore a piece of Coke cardboard
off and put it between the wrench and the “knob” With both wrenches tight on their positions turn the top one
slowly with quick even turns while at the same time pulling it up. NOTE: IT WILL REQUIRE A LOT OF
FORCE TURN THE KNOB OFF THE SHAFT. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT
DAMAGE OR SCRATCH THE TIMING PLATE. THE TIMING PLAT E IS EASY TO WARP. The
whole idea is that while you turn it and pull it up the “knob” will come off as it did in my case. This is the
hardest part of the entire disassembly. As you see there are no threads on the shaft or the knob.
As you see there are no threads on the shaft or the knob.
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4 of 11 10/19/2007 9:32 AM
In this case I’ve removed the timing plate as well a washer beneath the plate.
Remove the 3 screws as indicated by their arrows.
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Lift off the plate
There is a dust cap gasket that needs to be removed to. It can be removed earlier but I decided to remove it
now. This normally comes with a new cap and wires.
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Remove the electronics. I’m not sure of its entire function but this device reads the direction of the timingmarks on the plate and knows where the cam is.
Remove the collar off of the shaft.
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7 of 11 10/19/2007 9:32 AM
I’m pointing to the shaft bearing hold down plate. It contains two screws as indicated by the arrows and myscrewdriver..
Screws removed
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8 of 11 10/19/2007 9:32 AM
Remove the plate. Be careful with this part.
You must use a hammer to push the entire distributor shaft out from the bearing. Use two 2X4s to do this. Put
a piece of rubber or a cloth on the top of the shaft. Hit the shaft with direct and hard taps this will push the
shaft out from the bearing.
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The shaft is out. The bearing
Another close-up
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FINALLY THE OIL SEAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the oil seal is bad as in most cases it can simply be removed with a screwdriver taking pieces of it on the
way out.
The removed oil seal As far as the size or dimensions of the oil seal I have no clue. But if you read closely in
the picture you can see the company is KOK. KOK as I found is a company in Taiwan that makes oil seals as well as other rubber products. The
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top of the seal has numbers on it. It reads as follows: KOK, HSCL, 12.45, 22, 6, 4220, 72. These areall the numbers from left to right starting from KO K. The website for the company is
http://www.oilseals.net/. They have a branch office in Irvine, CA. But I’m sure you can go to yourlocal parts counter and match up this oil seal with something they have in stock.
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