Japan, with its history spanning over 2000 years, has a rich and well-defined culture that can be enjoyed wherever you happen to travel. Much of that culture finds its roots in Japanese mythology, from the stories transcribed in the Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) and the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) to local myths and legends. Shimane Prefecture, located to the north of Hiroshima Prefecture, is home to many places that feature prominently in those legends, especially in the eastern part of the prefecture, in the region known as Izumo. Not only that, but many of these legends connect very

closely with different facets of Japanese culture well known throughout the world. That is part of what makes Izumo such an interesting place; you can see that connection in places and stories throughout the region, and often, those facets of Japanese culture find their origin here. Also, the world of legends and the world of modern life co-exist here so closely that it is unsurprising to find places that are the stage for legends just off to the side of the beaten path.

Sengu and Renewal

Of all the deities featured in Japanese mythology, Okuninushi-no-kami is the one with the strongest connection to Shimane and the Izumo region. After facing many trials, he became the ruler of the land known as Ashihara-no-Nakatsukuni, a name in mythology that refers to Japan. While settling here in Izumo, he worked to make all of the land livable and to make life easier for the people that lived there. Due to his efforts, he is known as the god of nation-building, land development, agriculture and medicine. After making Ashihara-no-Nakatsukuni a better place to live, he turned over control of it to Amaterasu and her descendents (as explained in the Kuni Yuzuri myth). In return for this act, a grand shrine that reached to the heavens was built for him, and this shrine became Izumo Taisha. He also became the deity in control of the unseen world, and as part of this, became the deity of en-musubi, making the connections that bind people together. It is from this that we here at the En-musubi Tourism Association take our name, and it is our hope that you will come to Izumo and see the land that Okuninushi-no-kami loved so greatly.

The En-musubi Tourism Association would like to thank Dustin Kidd (Teacher, Kaisei Junior High School and High School), Daisetsu Fujioka (Chairman, Research Center for Izumo Studies), and Tsuyoshi Nishikida (Director, Association of Shinto Shrines, Shimane Prefecture Office) for their cooperation in the production of this pamphlet.

Who is Okuninushi-no-kami 大国主 ?

En-musubi Tourism Associationhttp://www.en-musubi.net e-mail: info@en-musubi.net

Shimane Prefectural Government Tourism Promotion Divisionhttp://www.kankou-shimane.com/en/ e-mail: kankou@pref.shimane.lg.jp

Matsue International Tourist Information Office "Visit Japan" Information Desk (English Assistance Available)TEL. +81 852 21 4034

Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima, Okayama, FukuokaIchibata Travel Service, Highway Bus Reservation Center0852-20-5252

Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, KobeJR Highway Bus Reservation Center0853-21-0591

Tokyo

Osaka

Fukuoka

Fukuoka-Izumo1hr10min JAC

Osaka-Izumo50min JAC

Izumo En-musubi Airport

Tokyo-Izumo1hr20min JAL

Access by

Air

Access by

Rail

Access by

Highway Bus

3hr20minShinkansenNozomi

ShinkansenNozomi34min

Super OkiMatsukazeLimited Express1hr23min

ShinkansenNozomi

44min

1hr41min

3hr51min

1hr19min

1hr4min

Tokyo St.

Shin-Osaka St.

ShinkansenNozomi

Hakata St.

Tokyo St.

Shin-Osaka St.

Hakata St.

Hakata St.

Okayama St.

Hiroshima St.

YakumoLimited Express

35min

Super OkiLimited Express

2hr6min

2hr20min

Bus

1hr53min

Matsue St.

Shin-Yamaguchi St.

Hamada St.

A c c e s s

Currently, Izumo Taisha is undergoing its sengu, a period of repair work on the shrine that is, as a general rule, conducted every sixty years. This sengu began in the spring of 2008, and is scheduled to finish in 2013. During this time, the deities enshrined in Izumo Taisha are moved to a temporary shrine while repairs are conducted. As the main hall is a national treasure, as much of the original building is preserved as possible while damaged parts are replaced. In this case, it means that the roof of the main hall of the shrine, which is covered with hundreds of thousands of thin pieces of Japanese cypress bark, has being completely replaced, as exposure to the elements over the past 60 years has done heavy damage. Other necessary repairs are underway as well, but they are almost complete, and once they are, the deities will be moved back into the main hall in a special ceremony held in the spring of 2013. While shrine or temple roofs covered with cypress bark are no rarity, certain characteristics of Izumo Taisha,s roof make it particularly unique. First, with a thickness of 90 cm (almost 3 feet) and a total area of 590 square meters (6350 square feet), the sheer number of pieces of bark needed to reroof the shrine is huge: 640,000 pieces. Then there is the length of the pieces. Izumo Taisha,s roof has a curve to it that can only be made using long pieces of bark (90 to 120 cm, or 3 to 4 feet). No

other shrine or temple,s roof uses bark that long, so the carpenters who worked on the roof had no familiarity with how to lay down the strips of bark correctly. They had to test out methods in a special practice area before

moving to work on the actual roof. These factors drove the

workers to do their best, because

the finished work will be a lasting example of their skill. Also, just as work has continued on this same shrine building since it was first built almost 270 years ago, the current workers view this sengu as their chance to pass on an important part of traditional Japanese culture to the next generation. However, the need for repairs and renovation is not the only reason this sengu is held. It is also seen as a symbol of rebirth. By making the shrine building new again, the energy of the god enshrined within is renewed. Following 2011,s devastating earthquake and tsunami, the current sengu can even be seen as symbolic of Japan,s recovery efforts. Interestingly enough, the pine wood used to replace the chigi (crossbeams) on the front part of the main hall,s roof comes from pine trees in Iwate Prefecture, one of the areas hardest hit. Another example of this idea of renewal and rejuvenation can be found at Sada Shrine, in the Kashima area of Matsue City. Sada Shrine,s Gozagae Sai is a yearly festival held in late September. During it, the goza (rush mats) used in all the shrine buildings on the grounds are replaced, bringing a yearly sense of renewal to the shrine. As part of this festival, and the Reisai fall festival which is held the day after the Gozagae Sai, a traditional art with nearly 400 years of history is performed: Sada Shin Noh. Sada Shin Noh is a collection of ritual dances, including some based on Japanese myths with a close connection to the Izumo region, like the Kuni Yuzuri myth or the Yamata-no-Orochi myth. The dances are performed at night, lit by the flames of bonfires set on the shrine grounds, creating a uniquely mysterious atmosphere. While the entirety of Sada Shin Noh is only performed at Sada Shrine at these festivals, certain parts are performed for the public every year, usually once a month between May and November. Sada Shin Noh,s uniqueness has led to a growing popularity, and it was selected as a World Heritage Intangible Cultural Property by UNESCO in 2011.

FREEFREE

Izumo Taisha

The Kuni Yuzuri Myth

One of the most intriguing events held at Izumo Taisha is the series of ceremonies held during Kami Ari Zuki. According to the lunar calendar, the tenth month of every year was referred to as Kannazuki, or The Month of No Gods. This name comes from the idea that during that time, the yaoyorozu-no-kami (the myriad gods throughout the country) leave their respective shrines and gather at Izumo Taisha. Because of this, in the Izumo area of Shimane, that month is known by the name Kami Ari Zuki, The Month of the Gods. Even though the lunar calendar has passed out of usage, the names remain, and are still used to this day. However, because there is some difference between the lunar calendar and the current one, Kami Ari Zuki usually falls somewhere in November. During Kami Ari Zuki, a series of ceremonies known as the Kami Ari Sai (Festivals of the Gods) are held during an eight-day period that begins with the Kami Mukae Sai (The Welcoming of the Gods) and ends with the Karasade Sai (The Departure of the Gods). While at Izumo Taisha, all of the gods stay in two long shrine buildings (the Jukusha) located on either side of the fence surrounding the main hall that serve as their lodging. They hold meetings to discuss the upcoming year, and they enjoy sake and feasting as well. So what do the gods discuss during these meetings? They decide what kind of en people will have for the upcoming year. In this case, en basically means what sort of connections people will make, keep, or lose with other people, as well as what sort of experiences people will have. Izumo Taisha,s connection to Kami Ari Zuki can be traced back to the

Kuni Yuzuri myth. In return for turning control of Ashihara-no-nakatsukuni (the earth) over to the gods in the heavens, Okuninushi-no-kami was given control of all things unseen. In essence, he was given control over the realm of the spiritual, and this includes en. So during Kami Ari Zuki, Okuninushi-no-kami holds conference with the other gods to make decisions about what ties to make for the upcoming year. People from around Japan, as well as international visitors, travel to Izumo Taisha every year during Kami Ari Zuki, as it is a unique opportunity to offer up prayer to all of the myriad gods throughout Japan at one place. However, the Kami Ari Sai and related festivals are not unique to Izumo Taisha. Several other shrines in the Izumo region have rituals connected to Kami Ari Zuki, including Mankusen Shrine in the Hikawa area of Izumo City and Sada Shrine in the Kashima area of Matsue City. For example, the yaoyorozu-no-kami are seen off at the Karasade Sai at Mankusen Shrine every year before they head back to their various areas of Japan. During the Kami Ari Sai ceremonies, residents of the areas around these shrines are careful to avoid making unnecessary noise, so as not to disturb the deities during their meetings.

Kami Ari Zuki (The Month of the Gods)

The event that starts Kami Ari Zuki off is known as the Kami Muake Sai, The Welcoming of the Gods. The festival itself begins in the evening. Preparations happen on the beach at Inasa-no-Hama, which figures as an important location in the Kuni Yuzuri myth. After sunset, priests from Izumo Taisha set up a small ceremonial area and start bonfires on the beach as welcoming flames for the gods. After some prayers and rites, a procession escorts the gods through town to Izumo Taisha. It is said that ryuja-sama (a dragon god) is at the head of this procession, which is blocked from direct view on either side by white fabric carried by Taisha priests. After arriving at Izumo Taisha, some ceremonies are held, after which the gods move to their lodging. Many people who attend this festival follow the procession all the way to Izumo Taisha.

The origins of Izumo Taisha can be traced back to the Kojiki, and the Kuni Yuzuri myth detailed within. Okuninushi-no-kami, after having overcome several trials and challenges, became the ruler of Ashihara-no-Nakatsukuni (the earth). For a long while, he worked hard to develop and improve the land, and he was well-loved and respected. Finally, the sun goddess Amaterasu and the other gods in the heavens sent messengers to Okuninushi-no-kami, requesting that he turn over control of the land to them. The first two messengers were so impressed by Okuninushi-no-kami that they decided to serve him instead. A third messenger, Takemikazuchi, descended from the heavens to the beach at Inasa-no-Hama and, after driving his sword hilt first into the sand, sat on the blade with his legs crossed and demanded an audience with Okuninushi-no-kami. He told Okuninushi-no-kami to turn over control of Ashihara-no-Nakatsukuni, but Okuninushi-no-kami responded that he should take up the matter with his two sons first. His son Kotoshironushi agreed that they should do what Takemikazuchi wanted. However, Okuninushi-no-kami,s other son Takeminakata wanted to know just who this challenger to their authority thought he was, and proposed a test of strength to determine who should have control of the land. Takemikazuchi soundly defeated him, and chased down the fleeing Takeminakata to kill him. Takeminakata begged for his life, and in return agreed to obey Takemikazuchi,s wishes. Takemikazuchi then returned to Okuninushi-no-kami, demanding to know how he would respond. Okuninushi-no-kami agreed to turn over control of Ashihara-no-Nakatsukuni to the gods in the heavens and retreat completely from the

world. However, in return for this act of Kuni Yuzuri (kuni means "nation" or "land", and yuzuri is an act of compromise or turning something over to someone else), he asked that a large shrine, so large that it would reach all the way to the heavens, be built for him. As the leader of the gods in the heavens, Amaterasu agreed not only to this, but also to have her son Amenohohi and all of his descendants serve Okuninushi-no-kami for all time. The shrine that was built for him is none other than Izumo Taisha.

Miho Shrine, in the Mihonoseki area of Matsue, is another shrine in the Izumo area with a deep connection to the Kuni Yuzuri myth. Okuninushi-no-kami,s son Kotoshironushi, who is known throughout Japan by his more familiar name of "Ebisu-sama", is the main deity enshrined there. Miho Shrine is the head shrine of all 3385 shrines nationwide that enshrine Ebisu-sama. It is said that he enjoyed fishing at the cape near where the shrine stands, and because of this close connection to the sea, he is worshipped as the deity of bountiful fishing and safe travel on the seas. Two dynamic festivals held at Miho Shrine every year reenact parts of the Kuni Yuzuri myth: the Aofushigaki Shinji (April 7th) and the Morotabune Shinji (December 3rd). People visit Miho Shrine year-round, not only to see these festivals but also to pay their respects to Kotoshironushi, the well-loved Ebisu-sama.

Izumo Taisha’s Kami Mukae Sai

On the western edge of the Shimane Peninsula, in the city of Izumo, you can find Izumo Taisha, which is also known by its official name of Izumo Oyashiro. The main deity enshrined there is Okuninushi-no-kami, the deity of nation-building and en-musubi, creating the ties that bind us all together. As one of the most famous and most important shrines in the country, Izumo Taisha is visited by many people, both Japanese and international, every year. The grounds of Izumo Taisha are quite spacious, and pine trees line the path to the shrine itself. The main hall of Izumo Taisha is 24 meters (about 79 feet) tall, making it the tallest shrine building in Japan. It is representative of the Taisha style of shrine architecture, which is seen in many of the shrines found throughout the Izumo region. Built in 1744, the main hall of Izumo Taisha is a national treasure. No one knows exactly when Izumo Taisha was first built, but it has been here for a very long time. In 2000, wooden pillars were uncovered on the shrine grounds. Each one was made from three trees bound together to make a single giant pillar with a diameter of three meters (almost 10 feet). Estimated to be from the mid-13th century, they were used to hold up a main hall that was 48 meters (about 157 feet) tall, twice the height it is now. Other stories even place the height of older versions of the main hall of Izumo Taisha at 96 meters (about 315 feet)! This would match up well with the origin of Izumo Taisha mentioned in the Kuni Yuzuri myth, as the shrine built for Okuninushi-no-kami was said to have stretched all the way to the heavens. One particularly interesting facet of Izumo Taisha is that it has a very close

connection with the Imperial Family. Whenever a change in head priests happens at Izumo Taisha, the new head priest will visit the Imperial Palace, present an offering to the Emperor, and recite a special prayer. The offering includes a necklace made of agate stones, including magatama, comma-shaped agate stones that have been produced in this area since ancient times. The stones used are green, white, and red; they indicate a wish for the Emperor to live a long and healthy life. Also, during Izumo Taisha,s annual Reisai Festival held on May 14, official messengers from the Emperor bring offerings to the shrine. Izumo Taisha is one of the few shrines around the country to be honored with this yearly visit. Izumo Taisha is quite possibly the most well-known spot in the Izumo region, and as an important historical and cultural location, it is a must-see for anyone visiting the Izumo region.

Aofushigaki ShinjiThe conference of the Gods during Kami Ari Zuki

Morotabune Shinji

1

2

3

45

6

7

8

10

9

12

3

12345

Izumo Taisha Grand ShrineSada ShrineMiho ShrineMankusen ShrineHinomisaki Shrine

6788109

Mezuki ShrineKamosu ShrineKanbara ShrineAsayama ShrineTaga Shrine

Shrines where the Festival of the Gods is held

123

Manai ShrineRokusho ShrineKumano Grand Shrine

Shrines where the Festival of the Gods used to be held

Matsue

Izumo

Unnan

Okuizumo

Yasugi

Oda