rabbits

WHY DOES MY BUNNY MISBEHAVE?Each year too many rabbits are abandoned

due to behavioural problems. To help prevent thistragedy, it is essential to develop a basicunderstanding of rabbit behaviour. While youmay never completely understand your rabbit, itis possible to have some basic understanding ofwhy your rabbit behaves the way he does.Understanding is key in knowing how to controlhis undesirable behaviour. The two biggestfactors that cause your rabbit to misbehave arehormones and boredom.

HORMONESWhen rabbits reach sexual maturity (at three to

six months of age, depending on the breed),hormones start to influence their behaviour: ownersoften see an increase in negative behaviours such asdigging and chewing. Unaltered, sexually maturepets also have an overwhelming desire to markterritory, and frequently lose their litterbox habits.Some will even spray or become aggressive.

Spaying or neutering your pet can help to controlnegative behaviour associated with hormones. Itdeters, if not eliminates, most negative hormonally-driven behaviour within three months after theprocedure. Its unfair not to give your potentiallywonderful bunny a chance to be an importantmember of your family just because he has becomea hormonally-charged nuisance. As with anysurgery, there is some risk. Therefore, it is veryimportant to have only an experienced bunnyveterinarian spay or neuter your pet.

BOREDOMRabbits are inquisitive by nature and require

sufficient mental stimulation and physical exerciseeach day. A bored bunny may become depressedor destructive. To help prevent boredom, provideyour rabbit with a selection of toys and dailyexercise time in a bunny-proofed area.

TOYSSome favourite and safe toys include: Cardboard boxes with doors and windows

for remodeling Tunnels made from cardboard concrete forming

tubes (available at your local hardware or homeimprovement stores).

Canning jar rings and hard plastic baby/birdtoys, without small removable parts (such as a setof plastic keys) for tossing.

Phone books for demolition projects Untreated willow rings, wicker baskets and grass

mats. Important: Be sure that your rabbits headcannot get stuck in the hole of the willow ring!

Untreated fruit tree branches like apple, willowor aspen are tasty distractions, but cherry,apricot, peach, and plum (fruits with pits) aretoxic unless they are removed from the tree andaged for a month.

Cardboard boxes (or large litter pans) filled withhay or shredded newspaper for digging.If your bunny doesnt seem interested in a certain

toy at first, try it again later. Your bunnys interestsmay change. Also, remember that playtime can bea team effort and not just a spectator sport. Yourbunny might enjoy a game of fetch...in reverse. Hethrows a jar lid and you retrieve it for him so that hecan throw it again, and again, and again.

DEALING WITH CHEWING & DIGGINGWe have already discussed the importance of

spaying and neutering in alleviating hormonalbehaviour, which can include chewing and digging.It is important to realize, however, that chewing anddigging are natural rabbit behaviours, and cantalways be stopped. Sometimes rabbits will dig and

chew because they are bored, while others simplylike to dig and chew. The key is to provideacceptable diversions from your antique dresser,colonial baseboards or favourite armchair.

When your rabbit digs or chews something thatis inappropriate, it is helpful to remove him from thesituation and replace the item with something that isappropriate for chewing and digging.

PROVIDING A SAFE ENVIRONMENTDont assume that a rabbit must always be

caged. Bunny-proofing can be relatively easy.Providing an area for exercise and out of cagetime is extremely important to a bunnys well being.However, it is important to remember that rabbitsare quick, quiet and curious: you may not evenrealize that your rabbit is in a dangerous situationuntil it is too late. Taking precautions to make yourrabbits exercise area bunny-safe is a must for anyresponsible rabbit owner.

Dark Areas: Be sure to block all openings thatthe rabbit can crawl into, including ductwork andthe areas behind furniture and appliances withPlexiglas, wood panels and even cardboard orpillows (if your rabbit isnt an avid chewer).

Electrical cords: Electrical cords are verydangerous for bunnies. If chewed, they can causesevere burns or electrocution. Conceal cords inflexible plastic tubing, spiral cable wrap, PVCpiping or plastic shower rod covers (great for cordsthat run along a wall).

House plants: Household plants should bekept out of your bunnys reach because many aretoxic. Watch for fallen leaves as well.

Unsafe surfaces: It is important to make sure yourrabbit cannot jump onto any unstable surface that hemay fall off of and injure himself. If your rabbit likes tojump on to the top of his cage, secure a towel to thetop with clothes pins so that he does not get his footcaught in the wire when jumping back onto the floor.

Baseboards and Walls: Some bunny ownershave had success using commercial anti-chewproducts, such as Bitter Apple, on surfaces that theydont want their bunny to chew. Others have betterluck applying a bit of cheap perfume or Ivory soapto areas that their bunny likes to chew. Whateverchewing deterrent you choose, it is important toapply a small amount to the object first to make surethat it truly deters your bunny. NEVER use anythingtoxic as a chewing deterrent. In addition, you canuse clear corner guards, available at your local

home improvement store on the corners of yourwalls or tops of your baseboards (if yourbaseboards are wide enough).

Off Limits: You may not be able to adequatelybunny-proof some areas of your home such as ahome office. These areas should always remain offlimits to your bunny. This can be done by closing thedoor or installing a baby gate (Note: Some rabbitscan jump over a baby gate!).

Carpet fibres: Ingesting carpet fibres is verydangerous and can lead to a blockage or stasis.The best way to prevent a rabbit from digging andpulling out carpet fibres is to restrict access tocarpeted areas or cover the areas that he findsattractive with cotton rugs or tiles.

Until your rabbits exercise area is properly bunny-proofed, make sure your bunny is kept in a cage orplay pen for his own protection, and only let him outunder supervision. Rabbits can be quite creative andcan sometimes foil even the best attempts at bunny-proofing. For this reason, it is recommended that newrabbit owners or owners with young rabbits confinetheir rabbits when they are not there to supervise. Asyoung rabbits mature, they will become more calmand relaxed (spaying or neutering helps, too) andmay eventually be allowed to roam free in a bunny-proofed area of the house. Remember, even a free-range bunny needs a homebase, or a special areato consider his own.

WHEN BUNNY BITESSince rabbits often nip as a way of

communicating, it is important to distinguishbetween nipping as a way of communicating andbiting out of fear or aggression. If your rabbit hasstarted to bite or nip, you should determine whathe is trying to tell you.

Light nipping could mean that your rabbit hasbecome sexually mature, and he is trying to get youto notice him. It may also indicate that he has hadenough attention, wants to be put down, wantsfood or that you are blocking his path.

Sometimes rabbits that are ill or sexually matureand unaltered will become aggressive and bite.Rabbits may also bite if frightened. This type ofbiting is different from nipping to communicate.Dealing with a bunny that bites out of fear oraggression requires patience as well as time to earnthe rabbit's trust. This may mean modifying yourown behaviour to make the rabbit feel comfortableand less fearful.

Rabbit Behaviour:What we can learn from it

P.O. Box 314 31 Adelaide St. E.

Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250

www.ontariorabbits.org

Copyright 2003 Ontario Rabbit Education OrganizationLast modified March 22/07

Rabbits are social creatures, and maybecome bored if left alone all day. Many rabbitsbenefit from having another rabbit as acompanion, but choosing a companion for arabbit isn't always easy. The key to a goodmatch is personality and compatibility. Twodominant, territorial rabbits are more difficult tobond than one dominant and one submissiverabbit. Personality cannot be determined by sizeor breed, therefore the bonding process will notbe affected by the size and breed of the rabbits.

Generally, the easiest bond is between aspayed female and a neutered male. Babiesoften bond easily with one another and to someadults, but the bond may be broken at the onsetof puberty. Male-male and female-female bondsmay also work, but these pairs may requiremore effort and persistence.

Spaying and neutering, which helps toalleviate hormonal tendencies and territorialbehaviour, is important for bonding even samesex pairs. At the very least, one rabbit MUST bealtered when bonding male-female pairs toavoid accidental pregnancy. (Note: Adultrabbits are fertile at all times, mate quickly, andcan conceive at a very young age. Don't takethis chance!).

THE TECHNIQUEAlways quarantine any new rabbit for two

weeks. It is also a good idea to have the newrabbit checked by a veterinarian beforeintroducing him to your rabbit. After thequarantine, move the new rabbits cage intothe room with the existing rabbit. Place theircages side by side to allow the rabbits to getused to each others scent. They should beable to smell and see each other, but shouldnot able to touch each other. You can allowseparate exercise time in the same area, butalways ensure that the rabbits cannot bite oneanother through the cage bars.

Bonding sessions must take place in a smallneutral area, i.e., an area that is not frequented

by either rabbit. Make sure that there are noplaces that either rabbit can crawl into, such asan open cage or box. You do not want eitherrabbit to feel cornered, or for a fight to break outin an area that you cannot readily get to. Tworabbits may get along fabulously in familiarterritory when one rabbit is caged and the otheris not; however, they may behave aggressivelywhen they are both out of their cages. Alwayssupervise each bonding session and do not leavethe rabbits unattended.

At first, bonding sessions should be short.As the rabbits start to become friends, thesessions can be longer. The bonding sessionsneed to be a pleasant experience for yourrabbits. Provide them with new toys,litterboxes filled with fresh hay, or a platter ofveggies to share. Try to end the sessions on apositive note and work with your rabbits everyday. Some rabbits bond very quickly, whileothers may take several months to bond.

TIPS1. Prepare for marking of territory with fecesand urine. After the rabbits get used to eachother, the marking will gradually subside. Evenspayed and neutered rabbits may mark territoryin the presence of a new rabbit.2. For tough bonds, it may be helpful to take both rabbits for a car ride before the bonding session. If there is any danger ofthe rabbits fighting in the car, put them inseparate carriers. If you put them in the samecarrier, have a friend drive while yousupervise the rabbits. 3. If you are planning to house the rabbitstogether in one of the existing cages after theyare bonded, start by switching cages each dayto avoid 'ownership' of one cage.4. Learning to recognize aggressive bodylanguage (e.g., tail erect, ears back, tense bodyposture) is helpful in preventing fights. Rabbitswho fight will sometimes hold grudges, making thebonding process harder.

ASSESSING PROGRESSIf, during the bonding sessions, the rabbits

ignore one another and go about their businessof eating, grooming themselves or relaxing, thesession is going well. In time, the rabbits willbond. However, if the rabbits are continuallyaggressive towards one another, it may be bestto allow them to continue to live separately.

In order to assess progress, it is important tobe able to understand your rabbit's bodylanguage. For example, to a rabbit, nippingand fighting are mean very different things,even though they may look the same to us.Fighting is a deliberate attack. Nipping is ameans of communicating.

Circling and chasing are commonoccurrences during bonding and can escalateinto a fight. Stop circling and chasing when itoccurs, but do not separate the rabbits. Instead,place them side by side while petting them orfeeding them treats. After they have calmeddown, you can let them run around again.

Mounting is a natural part of the bondingprocess. It is not necessary to stop mountingas long as the rabbit being mounted does notbecome aggressive or afraid. However, neverallow backwards mounting because the rabbiton top can be seriously injured with one bite.Mounting can be amorous, as well as a wayto establish dominance

After your rabbits are getting along well inneutral territory, you can expand the area togradually include territory familiar to bothrabbits. Cage them separately until they aregetting along well in territory that is notneutral. Start to cage them together for shortperiods while you are there to supervise. Youdo not want a fight to break out in the cagewhen you are not there to intervene.

IN CASE OF A FIGHTWhen fights occur during a bonding

session, our first instinct is to try to pick up oneof the rabbits; however, this can lead toserious bite wounds. Do not use your barehands to break up a scuffle. Instead, spray thefighting pair with a water bottle set on thestream setting or cover them with a blanket.To prevent a fight, it is helpful to have a broomor sturdy piece of cardboard handy to slipbetween two angry rabbits. However, be

careful not to poke either rabbit in the eye withthe broom, because this can cause injury tothe eye. It is also helpful to wear oven mitts onyour hands during a bonding session, in caseyou have to break up a fight.

Have these 'tools of the trade' on hand atthe start of every bonding session so you don'thave to leave the room for supplies, leavingthe rabbits unattended. Serious fights canbreak out in seconds: pay attention to therabbits body language at all times. If fightingor nipping has taken place, always checkyour rabbits thoroughly for wounds. Disinfectany cuts or scratches and consult aveterinarian when necessary. A seeminglyminor scratch can quickly become an abscessthat requires medical attention.

A FINAL WORDAlways remember: Never adopt a rabbit as

a companion for your current rabbit if youcannot accept the fact that they may neverbond. Instead, consider fostering a rabbit inneed of a permanent home. If your currentrabbit bonds with your foster rabbit, then youcan adopt him

There are definite advantages to havingbonded pairs. Rabbits who have bondedfriends tend to be less bored -- and therefore,less destructive -- than single rabbits. Theyhave company when you are working late,and it is easier to clean one rabbit cage thantwo. Sometimes, however, it is just not meantto be. And rabbits should never be overlystressed in the process of making thembecome friends. We have to remember to dowhat is right for our rabbits -- and not what ismost convenient for us.

Rabbit Friendships:Would your rabbit benefitfrom having a buddy?


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



Your child has been asking for a pet. You considergetting him a dog or a cat but think about how much ofa commitment having a family pet can be. Then, youthink about getting a rabbit. Why not? Rabbits areperfect pets for children. They are cute, cuddly, spendmost of the time in a cage and dont seem to requiremuch care, right? Wrong!

DISPELLING THE MYTHSMyth #1: Rabbits are docile and cuddly.Rabbits are often portrayed by the media and inchildrens books as being cuddly and docile. Mostpeople are disappointed to find that most rabbits justsimply do not live up this stereotype. Rabbits generallydo not like - and even fear - being lifted off the groundor carried. They have a delicate skeletal structure, andmay be easily injured trying to escape from a childsarms. A rabbits sharp nails and powerful back legsmay also cause injury to a child. Myth #2: Rabbits are low maintenance pets.Rabbits have needs that are similar to other house pets.They require sufficient mental stimulation as well asphysical exercise in a bunny-proofed area each day.Cages and litterboxes need to be cleaned often toprevent odour. Rabbits have very specific dietaryrequirements. When rabbits are ill, they require carefrom a qualified veterinarian. They also benefit frombeing spayed and neutered. Myth #3: Having a pet teaches a childresponsibility. Many parents say they want to get apet for their child to teach the child how to beresponsible. While this sounds good in theory, its morelikely that the child will end up losing interest in the pet.The pet is then either neglected or given away. In eithercase, the child doesnt learn responsibility. Even worse,the child will sometimes learn that life is disposable andthat if he just waits long enough, someone else willrelieve him of his responsibility.

So, does this mean that you shouldnt get a rabbitfor your child? No, not necessarily but, as the adult inthe family, it is important to realize that you will be theprimary care taker of the rabbit. Therefore, it is essentialthat you understand what rabbits are like and whatproper care entails. Understanding proper rabbit care

is beyond the scope of this handout, but we will brieflydescribe what rabbits are really like. (For information onproper rabbit care, please contact us or visit our website at www.ontariorabbits.org.)

WHAT IS A RABBIT REALLY LIKE? It is very important to remember that every rabbit

has a unique personality and that specific charactertraits cannot be generalized by breed. However, mostrabbits do exhibit one or more of the following traits: 1. Rabbits are social animals. Rabbits aresocial animals. Most really enjoy the company ofeither another rabbit, a human, or sometimes otheranimals such as dog or cat. This, of course, isdetermined by the personality of the rabbit and theother animal in question. Some dogs and cats maybe aggressive towards a rabbit and should never beleft alone with a rabbit.2. Rabbits are curious. Rabbits are curious. Wantto get a rabbits attention? Simply sit on the floor in hisarea, read a book and ignore him. Most rabbitswouldnt be able to resist approaching to find out whatyoure doing. 3. Rabbits need sufficient physical exerciseand mental stimulation each day. Rabbits needsufficient physical exercise and mental stimulation eachday. For bunny-proofing tips and suggestions forsuitable toys, see our handout Rabbit Behaviour: Whatwe can learn from it or visit our web site.4. Rabbits are clean. Rabbits are fastidiousgroomers, and are easily litter trained. If you keep yourrabbits cage/area clean, he wont have an odour. Seeour web site or our handout on litter training for tips. 5. Rabbits love routine. Changes to feeding andexercise schedules are stressful and may lead to illnessor a badly-behaved rabbit. If a schedule must bechanged, introduce changes gradually.

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFOREGETTING A RABBIT

In addition to doing research, and learningwhat having a rabbit involves, there are otherthings you must consider when deciding if a rabbitis right for you and your child.

1. Do any of your family members haveallergies? Do any of your family members haveallergies? If so, it is important to make sure that theyarent allergic to rabbits before bringing one home.Note: Many people are allergic to hay (a staple in yourrabbits diet) and NOT the rabbit itself. 2. Consider your childs personality. Consideryour childs personality. If your child is calm andcooperative, a rabbit may be an appropriate additionto your family. On the other hand, if your child is loud,tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequentlyneeds to be reminded of rules, then a rabbit probablyisnt a good choice.3. Consider your childs age. Consider yourchilds age. Rabbits are rarely good pets for veryyoung children (younger than 7 years old). Very youngchildren do not have the coordination to interact with arabbit and may accidentally hurt it. However, if you arewilling to supervise their interaction, then a rabbit maybe appropriate. 4. Does your family have time for a rabbit?Does your family have time for a rabbit? Are you andyour child prepared to make time for the rabbit, whichinvolves cleaning, feeding and socializing. This is acommitment that can last 6-10 years.

TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL INTERACTIONNow that youve considered the rabbits needs

and have determined that your child would interactwell with a rabbit, here are some tips that may helpyou to maintain a happy household.1. Show your child how to pet the bunny. Guideyour childs hand over the rabbits head, ears, andupper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold his handflat or use the back of his hand. Do this frequentlybut stop if the rabbit seems bothered by it. Alwayssupervise your childs interactions with the rabbit.You may even want to have your child practice witha toy, stuffed bunny first.

2. Rabbits need to feel secure when being handled. Ifa rabbit does not feel secure, he will struggle and kickin an effort to escape. Children simply arent physicallystrong enough to be capable of making a rabbit feelsecure. For this reason, larger bunnies often make bettercompanions for children than smaller breeds. Childrenare less tempted to try to and pick up a larger rabbit.3. Children like to be able to pick up their toys and petsand carry them around. Always teach your child tointeract with the rabbit at ground level, since mostrabbits feel more secure at ground level. Explain to thechild that you or another adult will always be the onewho picks up the bunny for grooming, etc.4. Make interactions with the rabbit a positiveexperience for the child. Explain to him that it is hisspecial job to not scare the rabbit, not to pick upthe rabbit, etc. Avoid constantly using negativewords like Dont and Stop.5. Teach your child to leave the rabbit alone whenhe hops away or goes into his cage. It is helpful tointerpret the rabbits body language for the child tohelp him to understand. For example, tell the childthat I think the bunny wants to eat or nap now.Lets leave him alone for a bit. 6. Discourage your child from chasing a rabbit, pokingat him through the cage or banging on his cage. Thiscan be done by explaining: Chasing the rabbit willmake him afraid of you. Or Banging on his housescares him. It is important that you learn how to interpretrabbit behavior/language so that you can explain therabbits feelings about your childs actions. Sometimes, itis also helpful to compare the bunnys feelings to afeeling familiar to your child. For example, tell the childthat Banging on the rabbits house scares him. Youknow how you are scared sometimes of loud noises?.7. Teach the child that the litter box and the rabbitsdroppings are dirt and always use a broom anddustpan to sweep up the rabbits droppings whenthe child is around. A litter box with a grate overtop or a wire bottomed cage works well. 8. Create a safe zone where the rabbit can go forquiet and to escape. Use baby gates in doorways andor consider turning the cage so the door faces the wallwith enough room for the rabbit but not for the child.

Always remember that a rabbit - or any othercompanion animal - should be considered an additionto the family and not as a toy for a child. You, as theadult, must be the primary care taker of the animal.No child is responsible enough to assume such a jobon a daily basis. Children learn by example, so it isimportant for adults to set a good one.

Rabbits & Children:Is a rabbit a good pet for your child?


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



BASICSPlease note that this is a generic dietary

guideline for adult rabbits. Not all rabbits willtolerate - or should be fed - exactly the same foods.It is important to find a diet that is suitable for yourrabbit. Typically, an adult companion rabbit shouldhave a nutritious daily diet of unlimited hay, avariety of fresh vegetables, a limited amount ofpellets and fresh water.

HAY Hay is the most important part of an adult

rabbits diet and should be provided in unlimitedquantities. It is high in fibre, which keeps thedigestive tract moving, helping to preventblockages and stasis. In addition, hay helps tosustain healthy teeth by helping to reduce the riskof molar spurs.

There are two types of hay commonly availablein pet stores: Alfalfa (a legume hay) and Timothy (agrass hay). Alfalfa has more protein and calciumthan adult rabbits (over approximately 7 monthsold) generally need. Too much dietary calcium,along with hereditary factors and insufficient waterintake may lead to kidney or bladder stones orsludge for some rabbits. For this reason, adultrabbits should be fed grass hay (Timothy, Brome,Orchard, for example).

Hay bought directly from a farmer who growshay for horses is usually superior and inexpensive,especially if you have more than one rabbit. If youhave storage facilities or can split a bale of haywith other rabbit owners, a 45 pound bale can bepurchased for under 10.00. Hay that is specificallygrown for rabbits can also be purchased on-linefrom a company such as Oxford Meadows HayCompany (www.oxfordmeadowshay.com).

When purchasing hay, remember that goodhay should be mostly green in colour and shouldsmell like grass. Hay mold can cause death inrabbits - look for white dust or black and/orwhite spots on the bale. If you drop the bale ofhay and a lot of white dust flies up, it could bea sign of mold.

You may find the occasional weed in a bale ofhay. Thistles should be picked out. Milkweed, whichpoisonous to rabbits, is easily recognizable by itsthick fibrous stem and broad elongated leaves.

Hay purchased in large quantities should bestored in a cool, dry place in a container that allowsfor airflow (a large cardboard box or Rubbermaidcontainer with holes poked in it, for example).

It is important to keep offering hay, even ifyour rabbit is reluctant to eat it. Some rabbits canbe quite suspicious of new foods, but willeventually learn to eat them. Try a different brandor type of hay or offer a mix of grass hays. Somerabbits prefer stalky, course hay, while othersprefer a softer cut of hay. Keep in mind, thefresher the hay, the more likely it is that yourrabbit will eat it. Also, you may considerdecreasing the amount of other foods that youfeed or offer hay first thing in the morning (whenyour rabbit is hungry), before feeding pellets orgreens. However, never deny your rabbit otherfoods if he is not eating hay.

VEGETABLESVegetables can be an important part of a rabbits

balanced diet. For rabbits who drink little water,fresh vegetables can help to provide much neededhydration. It is important to realize, however, thatsome rabbits tolerate vegetables well, while othersmay suffer from gas or runny stools if they consumetoo many or the wrong kind of vegetables. Try tooffer rabbits who tolerate vegetables at least 3different types of greens daily (a minimum of 2 cupsper 6 lbs. body weight per day). Introduce a smallquantity of new greens every 5-7 days, and observethe rabbits droppings closely. Remove anyvegetable that causes soft stool or gas from therabbits diet immediately.

Remember to wash vegetables thoroughly andthat spoiled greens can make a rabbit seriously ill.Avoid members of the cabbage/cauliflower familybecause they can cause gas, and do not feediceberg lettuce, since it has little nutritional value.Supply mostly dark leafy veggies.

Try some of the following: Basil, Beet greens,Bell peppers, Bok Choy, Broccoli (mostly leavesand stems), Brussels sprouts, Carrot tops (washthoroughly to remove pesticides!), Cilantro, Collardgreens, Dandelion (greens and flowers nopesticides!), Dill, Endive, Escarole, Kale, Mint,Mustard greens, Parsley (curly and flat leaf),Radicchio, Radish tops, Romaine lettuce, Spinach,Swiss chard (red and green) and Watercress.

Although high calcium vegetables contain lessdigestible calcium per volume than alfalfa hay oralfalfa based pellets, it is important to note thatexcess dietary calcium, along with other factors,may cause bladder stones or sludge in somerabbits. In addition, consuming vegetables that arehigh in oxalates in large quantities on a daily basismay cause crystals or stones to form in the kidneys.For these reasons, and so that your rabbit doesntconsume an abundance of any one vitamin, it ishelpful to feed your rabbit a variety of greens.

PELLETSPellets should be high in fibre (ideally a minimum

18%), low in protein (maximum content of 14% -15%) and low in calcium (maximum 1%). Plainpellets are a healthier choice than mixes thatcontain seeds, nuts, corn or dried fruit, which areunnecessarily high in sugar and fat. Some rabbitsover-consume pellets, which can lead to obesity andother health problems. If your rabbit has had a dietthat consisted solely of pellets, introduce grass hayand slowly add a variety of greens, while graduallyreducing pellet intake. Remember to make dietarychanges slowly and to watch your rabbit closely. Asyou limit your rabbits pellet intake, make sure he is

eating an increased amount of hay and greens. Donot restrict pellets too much if there is no other foodsource. A daily guideline for adult rabbits who eathay and/or greens is approximately 1/8 cup for 2-4 lbs. of body weight.

Timothy based pellets are higher in fibre and lowerin calcium than alfalfa pellets, but are not as readilyavailable at most pet stores. These pellets can,however, be ordered from most vet clinics. Timothypellets may be beneficial to rabbits who have stonesor sludge, those who are overweight or those whosuffer from intermittent soft stool. Timothy pellets maynot be a good choice for long-haired rabbits (whoneed extra protein for hair growth) or thin rabbits.

FRUITS/TREATSFruits are high in sugars and calories. Feedng too

much fruit can lead to obesity and an overgrowth ofharmful bacteria in the digestive tract, which canpossibly lead to stasis. Fruit intake should be limitedto 1-2 tablespoons per 5 lbs. body weight per day.Acceptable fruits include apple, papaya, peach,pear, plums, raspberries and strawberries. Carrots,which are also high in sugar, should be considereda treat food. When feeding dried fruit as a treat tofeed about half of the amount as fresh. Rememberthat one raisin is the same as one grape!

People food, such as bread and cookies, andcommercially available rabbit treats, such asyogurt drops and seed and nut treats are also veryhigh in sugar and calories and should be avoided.Chocolate is poisonous.

SPECIAL CASESRabbits who are thin or ill can be given more

pellets to maintain a healthy weight. A product suchas Oxbows Critical Care or plain canned pumpkincan be fed for additional fibre and/or calories.

Long-haired rabbits need more protein for hairgrowth than short-haired rabbits. A long-hairedrabbit who eats well, but continually loses weightmay need to have its diet supplemented with morepellets or limited alfalfa hay (if sludge or stones arenot a problem).

Rabbits with tooth problems may have difficultyeating vegetables, hay or pellets. Sometimes it ishelpful to cut hay and vegetables into small pieces orsoften pellets with warm water when caring for theserabbits. Again, a product such as Oxbows CriticalCare or plain canned pumpkin (not pie filling) canbe fed for additional fibre or calories, if necessary.

CALCIUM/OXALATE LEVELSCalcium Oxalate

mg/100 gr serving mg/100 gr servingbroccoli 48 .19carrots 27 .50carrot tops 321* N/Acollard greens 145 .45dandelion 187 N/Aendive 52 .11kale 135 .02kohlrabi 24 N/Aparsley 138 1.70romaine 36 N/Aspinach 99 .97swiss chard 51 N/Aturnip greens 190 .05Source: US dept. of agriculture and *HRHandbook

Rabbit DietaryGuide: General nutrition informationfor adult rabbits


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



Grooming time is a good time to get to know yourrabbit and to check for lumps, fleas, urine burn, sorehocks and other potential problems. It isrecommended that you groom your rabbit weekly.

SHEDDINGRabbits generally molt four times a year,

alternating between heavy and light sheds. Typicalshed patterns include a quick, overall full-body shed;tufts; or a shed that starts at the head and works itsway down the back. Regardless of how your rabbitsheds, brushing, petting your rabbit with damphands, or gently plucking off loose tufts of fur are alleffective means of removing loose fur.

Suggested brush/comb type tools for removingloose fur from your pet include wire slicker brushes,Zoom Grooms (a rubber brush that is made by theKong Dog Toy Company), rubber grooming gloves,plastic or metal combs, or shedding blades (a toolwith a serrated edge that is dragged lightly acrossthe rabbits fur). Whatever tool you choose, it isimportant to remove loose hair so that your rabbitdoesnt ingest too much while grooming himself. Likecats, rabbits spend a lot of time groomingthemselves, but unlike cats, rabbits cant vomit.Regular grooming will prevent your pet fromingesting too much hair, which can lead togastrointestinal problems.

Longhaired: Longhaired breeds require specialcare that includes daily brushing and groomingregimens, therefore these types of rabbit are notrecommended for children or busy families.

Longhaired rabbits have powdery white danderthat produces a webbing effect in their fur and causesmats to develop close to the skin. Some owners investin a professional 'angora pet blower' to blow airthrough the rabbit's DRY fur and release the dander toprevent matting. You can also use a hairdryer on highspeed, COOL setting. Do not use heat, as it will drythe skin and cause more dander. Do not direct the airtowards the face, ears or genitals. These devices canbe noisy: if the noise appears to upset or stress therabbit stop using it.

Metal combs and mat rakes are most effective forgrooming longhaired rabbits. Keeping the fur clippedshort will help to keep matting to a minimum and makegrooming a bit easier.

Matting: Rabbit skin is very delicate and can teareasily. If your rabbit has become matted, try to use adematting tool or a mat rake to gently try to break upthe mats. If you are extremely careful, and are able tofeel where the skin ends and the mat begins, you cansnip into the mat with small grooming (blunt) scissorsand gently work at whats left with a metal comb. Afew small snips can help to break the mat apart,making it easier to comb out. When using scissors,make sure that you do not pull the fur up to clip it(which increases your chances of snipping the skin)and always hold your fingers between the rabbits skinand the scissors. If the mats are too severe, you mayhave to get your rabbit shaved by your veterinarian.Because it is easy to nick or scrape a rabbits skin whileshaving, only someone experienced in groomingrabbits should shave your pet.

NAIL TRIMSLike dogs, rabbits need to have their nails cut.

Nails that have grown too long can become snaggedin the carpet and break, which is very painful. Use aguillotine or scissor-type nail cutter to trim the nails.Nails should be cut every 4-8 weeks, dependingupon rate of growth. You can use an emery board(nail file) between cuttings to stop the nails frombecoming too sharp.

When cutting your rabbits nails, be careful not tocut the quick (blood vessel inside of the nail). Thequick is easy to see inside of light toenails, but it canbe obscured in darker coloured nails. Holding aflashlight under dark coloured nails will help you tosee the quick. Have styptic powder on hand to helpstop the bleeding in case the blood vessel isaccidentally cut.

Different techniques for cutting your pets nailsinclude the following:'Bunny Burrito Wrap': Securely wrap the rabbit ina towel (this is called a Bunny Burrito Wrap), cover

his eyes and hold him on your lap, securing him inplace with your arm. Pull one foot out of the towel at atime and firmly hold it while clipping each nail. If youuse this nail cutting technique, be sure that the rabbit iswrapped securely enough that he can not struggle, butnot so tightly that the rabbit is uncomfortable. Coveringa rabbits eyes may calm him down.

Cradling: Cradle your rabbit on his back like youare holding a baby, or hold him in your lap. Gentlypet his face and nose tohelp him to relax. Alwaysbe sure to sit on the floorwhen cutting a bunnysnails in this position. Somerabbits will startle withlittle or no warning. If youare sitting on the floor, therabbit is less likely to fallor jump from your lap andhurt himself. Slowly returnthe rabbit to the uprightposition after youvefinished cutting his nails.

A Little Help from a Friend: Some rabbits maystruggle and not allow you to cut their nails byyourself. To avoid overstressing the rabbit have afriend hold the rabbit in a comfortable position whileyou cut the nails (or vice versa).

Ask your veterinarian for other suggestions or tips.You may have to experiment with several different nailcutting techniques before finding the one that you andyour rabbit are most comfortable with. If you are notcomfortable cutting your rabbits nails yourself, youwill have to take your rabbit to the veterinarian forregular nail trims.

While cutting the nails, take the opportunity tocheck the feet for sore hocks. On some rabbits, youwill see calluses on the heels. This is normal, as longas they are pink - not red, sore or irritated.

CHECK YOUR RABBITS UNDERSIDEYou should regularly check the underside of your

rabbit, making sure that his bottom end is clean.Overweight and disabled rabbits will have a difficulttime reaching their anus and may have a problem withhardened cecals getting stuck to their fur. Occasionallyyour rabbits scent glands, which are located on bothsides of the genital mound, may need to be cleaned.If you take your thumb and index finger and gently

press on the area beside the genital mound, the scentglands will become visible. A bit of a pungent odorand some dark waxy material are normal. If the waxymaterial is hardened, you can gently use a moistenedQ-tip or soft cloth to soften it and drag it away from thearea. Do not dig or irritate this area.

CLEANINGBathing can be extremely stressful for a rabbit. For this

reason, rabbits should not be bathed. If a part of yourrabbit becomes soiled (i.e., his bottom end from loosestool), you can spot bathe that part of the rabbit. It is bestto use a moistened cloth to clean that area or to hold therabbits rear under warm running water and gentlyremove the soiled parts with your fingers. If bathing isunavoidable, never immerse the entire rabbit in water.Instead, put enough warm water in the sink so that thelevel is up to his belly. Sit his back feet in the water and,with your hand under the bunnys chest, gradually lowerhis front feet into the sink. Use a small cup and slowlypour water over the rabbit to soak and rinse his body,staying away from his face and ears. Only use warmwater to bathe your pet. If water doesnt sufficiently cleanthe bunny, consult a rabbit savvy veterinarian for ashampoo that is safe to use on your rabbit.

Rabbits take a long time to dry. In the winter or incold climates, you can use a hair dryer on the lowsetting (NOT on face or genitals) to help dry therabbit. Keep the dryer at least 12" from the bunny. Itis best, however, to towel dry the rabbit, keeping himaway from drafts, the air conditioning vent, etc., untilhe is thoroughly dry.

EARSCheck your rabbits ears for wax build up. This is

especially important for lop breeds and rear legamputees. A cotton swab or your fingernail can beused to remove the wax from the outer canal. To avoidpushing the wax further down into the ear canal, donot stick the cotton swab further down than you cansee. To clean the ears deep down, use a commercialear cleaner. Your veterinarian can recommend onethat is appropriate for your rabbit.

Also, be sure to check the ears for mites. Mitesmake the ears appear red, crusty and sore. Often,rabbits with mites will dig excessively at their ears andshake their heads frequently. Ears with a rank odour(possible infection) or ears with pus inside should bechecked by your veterinarian immediately.

More detailed grooming information can be foundon our web site.

You LookMarvelous!Tips for grooming.


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



APPROACHING YOUR RABBITBegin by stroking the top of your bunny's

head. Do not offer your hand for a bunny to sniffthe way you would to a dog. Many rabbits mayfind this gesture offensive and may attack (a fastlunge with a snort). Most rabbits do not likehaving the tips of their noses or chins touched.

HANDLING YOUR RABBIT WITH CARERabbits are incredibly cute and everyone

wants to hold them! The problem with this is thatbeing lifted and carried can be a frighteningsensation for a rabbit. A rabbit's primary meansof defense is being able to run away when indanger. When a predator captures a rabbit inthe wild, that predator picks the rabbit up andcarries it off. With all four feet suspended off theground, a rabbit has no way to escape shouldsomething scare him, so it is instinctual to fearbeing picked up.

Does that mean you should never pick up yourrabbit? No, but it does mean you need to usepatience, sensitivity and the right handlingtechnique to reduce or eliminate fear in yourrabbit. In time, many rabbits do learn to enjoybeing held and cuddled.

LIFTING YOUR RABBIT Bunnies should never be lifted by the ears. It is

up to you to teach your pet to accept beingpicked up. He may run away, hide or struggle atfirst and, when caught, he may even kick orlaunch into space. A normally affectionate bunnymay wriggle, stamp his feet or nip you as heattempts to retain solid ground. So be preparedbefore you lift! The key to safely handling yourrabbit is to position him within a few inches ofyou to shorten the suspended-in-air stage.

The easiest starting place is a small areaaccessible from the top, such as a top-openingcarrier or cage, pen or small room with nohiding places. If your rabbit is underneathsomething like a piece of furniture, try coaxinghim out with food first.

BACK END FIRSTIf you must pull a rabbit out of a hiding place,

try the backwards method. Pet your bunnyfirmly. Turn him around so his bottom is facingthe door you must get him through. Take hischest in one hand to prevent forward movementand, with the other hand, maneuver his hindend towards you. Once you have the hind feetout, the hard part is over.

THE BEGINNER LIFT1. In a kneeling position, pet with one hand,while sliding the other hand down yourbunny's side.

2. With your arm at bunny's side, slide itunder his torso while your petting handmoves towards his backside.

3. Support the bunny's chest with your handand his torso with your arm. Lift while theother (unseen) hand supports the rear end.

4. Once your bunny is lifted, hug himsecurely against you with one arm,supporting his body and the other armsupporting his hindquarters.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECTThe more you practice, the more confident you

will be, and the more readily your rabbit willaccept being lifted. If you repeat the beginnerlift several times in a row, setting your bunnydown immediately and rewarding him with atreat, his apprehension will decrease.

Rabbit skeletons are light and very fragile andtherefore easily susceptible to trauma fromfalling, twisting and kicking. If you are lifting orcarrying a rabbit and he begins to struggle, trynot to let it go: instead, hug the rabbit to youusing your body as a splint. This will protect therabbit as well as prevent him from hurting you.

If you cannot keep the rabbit from getting away,then fall on your knees to keep the rabbit fromfalling too far to the ground.

RELEASING YOUR RABBITPrevent injury by squatting down before you

release your bunny, turning him around andsetting him down facing you. You may also try tocover your rabbit's eyes with your hand - if hecan't see freedom coming, he won't fly into space.

MIX AND MATCHThere are several methods for lifting and

handling your rabbit safely, depending on thesize and temperament of your rabbit and whatfeels right. Each rabbit has its own preference,so if you are having trouble handling yourbunny, try a different technique. Ask ourvolunteers about their preferred method ofhandling. Even free range house rabbits canbenefit from lifting drills followed by treats so youare both prepared when grooming, traveling ormedicating are needed.

How to handle a rabbit:Practice makes perfect!


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



General Rabbit Health Guide:This guide is not intended to replace veterinariancare. Have your rabbit examined regularly.

For further information on health topics visit our website at www.ontariorabbits.org


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250


Ear Mites:Symptoms: Shaking head, digging at ears, crusty/bloody scabs in the ear.In severe cases, infestation can spread to other areas of the body. Possible Treatment: Veterinarian administered anti-parasitic medication.

Teary eyes:Discharge may indicate an upper respiratory infection, corneal scratchenvironmental irritants, blocked tear duct, or teeth problems. Symptoms: Matted fur around the eye, matted fur on insides of front paws.Possible Treatment: Examination should include a thorough molar check.Treatment may include having the tear ducts flushed and the discharge cultured or molar spurs removed. (Note: Clear discharge doesnt alwaysindicate absence of infection!) Oral and topical antibiotics (eye ointment or drops) may be prescribed. Gently apply warm water compresses to soften matted fur and sooth the area then pat dry.

Runny nose/sneezing:Potential respiratory infection.Symptoms: Wet or runny nose, sneezing, congestion, matted fur on insides of front paws.Possible Treatment: Veterinary examination is necessary to determine the presence of infection. In case of infection, antibiotics should be prescribed by veterinarian.

Shedding:Rabbits shed 4 times a year, alternating between light sheddingand heavy molts. Because rabbitscannot vomit, it is important to brush regularly or massage withdamp hands to remove excess fur so that it is not ingested.

Determining Gender:Determining the gender ofyoung rabbits is not easy.Dont take chances! Keep rabbits separated until anaccurate gender assessmentcan be made. Using yourindex and middle finger, press gently on either side of the genital mound. Males: a curved tapered protrusionshould be visible. Testiclesshould appear when the rabbit is approximately 10weeks old. Females: the protrusion will resemble a slit or be more V-shaped.

Fur Mites:Usually appear on the neck or spine areas first.Symptoms: Dandruff, dry skin, bald spots,thinning hair, scratching, white scaly skin. Possible Treatment: Veterinarian administered anti-parasitic medication.

GI stasis (decreased gastrointestinal motility):Serious condition! If a rabbit has only eaten or defecated a smallamount in the last 12 hours, seems listless or is uninterested in food or has other noticeable behavioural changes, he needs immediate veterinary attention. Possible Causes: Stress, diet changes, lack of fibre, too many carbohydrates, dehydration, an underlying condition causing pain (ie: molar spur, or gas), blockage of hair and food.Symptoms: Loss of or decreased appetite, sitting in a hunched position,inability to get comfortable, scant/small feces, behavioural changes.Possible Treatment: Veterinarian should palpate stomach/intestines and maytake x-rays to determine if there is a blockage. Therapy may include: fluids(sub-q or children's Pedialyte), simethicone (Gas-X), motility drugs (if noblockage is present), or enzymes.

Head tilt/Wry neck:Head tilts to one side, rabbit becomesdizzy and unbalanced and may rollover uncontrollably. Often caused byan inner ear infection, E. Cuniculi (parasite), or bacterial infection.Possible Treatment: Immediate veterinary care is required to determine the cause and the bestform of treatment. The anti-nauseadrug, Meclizine (trade names:Antivert or Bonamine), may help to control dizziness.

Toenails:Need regular trimming using scissor or guillotine type clippers. A blood vessel (thequick) runs lengthwise through the nail, andcan be easily seen in rabbits with lightcoloured nails. Apply styptic powder to stopthe bleeding if the quick is accidentally cut.

Hock Sores:Sitting on wire (especially Rex breed or overweight rabbits) or sitting on wet surfaces can cause ulcerated lesions on the rabbits feet. Symptoms: Awkward movements, bald spots/scabs on bottom of feet.Possible Treatment: Clean lesions, apply antibiotic ointment and keepcage clean and dry. Provide a soft surface or resting board in the cagefor the rabbit to sit on. Severe cases should be assessed by a veterinarian.

Urine Burn/Scalding:Prolonged contact with urine can cause burns to a rabbits skin. Possible causes: a urinary track infection, kidney disease, spondylosis (fused vertebrae) or arthritis.Symptoms: Wet bottom, missing fur on bottom or red, irritated skin.Possible Treatment: Veterinary examination is necessary to assess cause. Keep bottom clean and dry.

Malocclusion (misaligned teeth):Misaligned incisors (front teeth) can grow long and pierce the tongue, roof of mouth or lips. Molars (back teeth) candevelop sharp points (spurs), which cancut into the cheek or tongue and canlead to abscesses or loss of appetite. Symptoms: Change in eating habits(rabbit stops eating various foods oraltogether), drooling, teary eyes.Possible Treatment: Overgrown teeth need to be trimmed or filed.Severe cases may benefit from incisor removal. Have vet checkmolars with otoscope. Rabbit may need to be sedated for a thorough molar examination.

Fleas:Look for black flecks or the fleasthemselves moving through thefur close to the skin. Symptoms: Scratching, fur lossPossible Treatment: Some fleacontrol products that are safefor kittens, such asAdvantage (administered bya vet) can be used. Do notuse Frontline, which can betoxic to rabbits! Flea dipsand flea bathes should alsoNOT be used.

Ontario Rabbit EducationOrganization


Some rabbits spend many hours each day in acage, while others are rarely confined to a cage.Regardless of how much time your rabbit spends inhis cage, it is important that your choice of housingis one that is right for both you and your pet. Thereare many different housing arrangements that areappropriate for house rabbits.

IMPORTANT CAGE CHARACTERISTICSSize: The cage should be large enough to hold alitterbox containers for food, water and hay, toys, yetstill allow the rabbit to have enough space to stretchout comfortably. Remember, young rabbits will grow,so the size of the cage should be based on how largethe rabbit will be as a full grown adult, not on howlarge he is at the time you purchase the cage.Consider not only length and width of the cage, butheight as well. The rabbit should be able to sit up andstretch without hitting his head on the top of the cage. Doors: The cage should have a front door that therabbit can easily hop through, unassisted, when it isunlatched. A front door should open to the side, notto the bottom, because the rabbit may get his footcaught in the cage door when entering or leavingthe cage. In addition to a front door, a top doormay also be helpful for times when you need toreach in and remove the rabbit or clean the cage.Be sure that all doors latch in both corners and notjust in the middle so that your rabbit doesnt try toescape, getting caught in the bars. Also, rememberthat the door should be large enough for a litterboxto slide through. Construction: It's very important to inspect anywire or plastic on the cage for sharp, unfinishededges or corners that could hurt your bunny. Inaddition, to prevent the rabbit from slipping or yourrabbits foot from getting caught, ramps and shelvesshould be sturdy and made from non-slip materialwithout large exposed holes. Solid-walled cages(including glass or clear plastic) should not be used:they do not allow for enough ventilation or for therabbit to feel a part of his surroundings. Special considerations: If you are using a wirebottomed rabbit cage, it is important to cover some

of the bottom with cardboard, wood, newspaper,a towel or synthetic sheepskin so that your rabbithas a solid place to sit. Rabbits do not have padson the bottom of their feet, so providing a solidresting area is essential for preventing sore hocks.Cages that use wider, plastic slats for flooringprovide a more comfortable solid surface thantraditional wire cages. IMPORTANT: Don't choosea material for a resting surface that your rabbit willsnack on (unless it is safe for chewing like cardboardor newspaper). If you find that your rabbit likes tochew, do not leave a towel or synthetic sheepskin inthe cage with the bunny when you are notsupervising. A bunny that loves to chew may gnawholes in these objects and possibly develop ablockage - or even get his head stuck in a hole andstrangulate himself.

NECESSITIESFood, water and hay containers: For foodand water, choose heavy ceramic crocks that can'tbe chewed or easily dumped. For water, you canalso use a bottle, if your rabbit will drink from one. Ifdo you use a water bottle, be sure to change thewater and clean the bottle regularly. Also, note thatsome rabbits tend to drink more out of a bowl thanout of a bottle. Your rabbit's hay container could beanything from the end of the litterbox opposite towhere the rabbit eliminates, to a traditional hayhopper or a hay bin (such as a stackableRubbermaid bin). Litterbox: Traditional cat litterboxes as well asplastic Rubbermaid-type tubs, and tubs fromrestaurant supply stores, make excellent litterboxes.Of course, the size of your bunny should dictate thesize of the litterbox.

SOME CAGE OPTIONSSolid Plastic Bottomed Rabbit Cages Advantages: Easy to clean.Disadvantages: Rabbits that are not litter trained or provided with

a litterbox will be sitting in urine and feces.

Wire or Plastic Slat-Bottomed Rabbit CagesAdvantages: Bunnies that are not litter trained are less likely to

sit in urine, which can cause urine burn.Disadvantages: Hay and food are lost through the cage floor. Harder to clean because debris tends to get stuck

in the bottom. Part of the wire floor must be covered because

daily exposure to wire floors can cause hock sores.

Metal Dog KennelsAdvantages: Easy to clean. A solid platform (supported by notched dowels)

can be added to medium/large dog kennels forextra space.

Kennels collapse flat for easy storage.Disadvantages: Stainless steel tray bottoms provide no traction and

need to be covered to prevent splay leg. (Note:Splay leg is a condition that causes the rabbits legs splay out to the side. It is caused by weak orweakened connective tissue.)

Small breeds/babies may be able to escape ormay get their heads caught between the bars andseriously injure themselves or be able to escape.When using these cages for small breeds orbabies, it is recommended that you securehardware cloth or screen around the outside of the cage with cable ties.

CUSTOM BUILT CAGESYou can construct a cage or pen to meet your

rabbits needs. Some rabbits like to chew thereforea cage constructed with a wooden frame couldeasily be demolished. Never make a cage usingchicken wire: a rabbit can chew through this thinwire and cut his mouth.

Neat Idea Cube CagesThe Neat Idea Cubes (NIC) are 14x14 inch

square metal grid panels that are used primarily formaking shelving units. You can find these panels atsome office supplies stores, Wal-Mart, Home Depotand Costco. These panels can be easily piecedtogether into a custom cage using plastic multi-purpose cable ties. The height, width, and length ofthe cage, as well as number and position ofplatforms and openings (e.g., top opening for easycleaning) can be adjusted to suit your needs.Advantages: Depending upon materials used, NIC cages

can be cost-efficient compared to other largerabbit cages.

Disadvantages: These cages can be messy, unless you build or

buy a guard for around the bottom of the cage. These cages do not have floors. Some flooring

options include grass mats, cardboard, thinplywood, linoleum, carpet runners or hard plasticfloor protectors (from office furniture stores). Donot choose carpet or linoleum (if edges are leftexposed) if the rabbit is prone to chewing. Whatever flooring option you choose, it's a goodidea to fasten the walls to a sturdy flooringmaterial to make the cage more stable. Officepaper binder clips work well for this purpose.

A FINAL NOTE There are so many different options for housing

your rabbit. Regardless of which you choose, it isimportant to remember that the area should feel likehome to the rabbit. To help your rabbit settle in,start by setting up the cage in a room where therabbit can exercise. The rabbit will soon learn thatthe cage is the place to go for food, water and thelitterbox. Soon enough, you will find that your rabbithas accepted the cage as his personal space.However, if the cage is set up poorly, or is too small,your rabbit will see the cage as a place ofconfinement, rather than as a place to call home.

Finding the RightCage for Your Rabbit


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Many people are very surprised when they findout that rabbits can be litter trained. Rabbits areintelligent, clean creatures of habit. They like to goin the same spot, which will work to your advantagewhen you are trying to litter train your rabbit.

HOW TO LITTER TRAINTo litter train your rabbit, start by placing a

litterbox inside your rabbits cage or pen, in thecorner that he has chosen as his "bathroom" corner.

As you increase your rabbits supervisedexercise time, you need to make sure that he hasaccess to one or more litterboxes (besides theone in his cage) in his exercise area. Havingmore than one litterbox will increase yourbunnys chance of success. He will likely dictatethe placement of these litterboxes by choosing abathroom corner in his exercise area. Hopefully,he will choose a spot that is convenient to the restof the household. If not, you can try to convincehim to change his mind by putting the box first inthe spot he has chosen and gradually moving ituntil it is where you would like it to be. However,it may be easier to oblige a stubborn rabbit thanto try to change a chosen litterbox spot. Afteryour rabbit is using the litterbox regularly, youcan decrease the number of litterboxes until hehas one box in his cage and only one box in hisexercise area.

TIPS Perhaps the most important thing you can do to

help your bunny achieve good litterbox habitsis to have him or her fixed. Unaltered rabbitsare much harder to litter train than unalteredrabbits. After reaching sexual maturity (3-4months for smaller breeds, 4-6 months for largerbreeds), a rabbits hormones tell him to markterritory. Having your rabbit spayed orneutered can stop (or at least decrease)hormonally driven negative behaviour. As withany surgery, there is some risk. Only anexperienced bunny veterinarian should spay orneuter your pet.

Young and adolescent rabbits will not haveperfect litter habits all the time. They are stillgrowing physically and mentally, and accidentswill happen. Be patient: your bunny willimprove as he matures. Always praise yourbunny for a job well done and never scold orhit your bunny because he had an accident.

Keep those litterboxes clean! Your bunnyslitterbox should to be cleaned everyday orevery second day. Simply wash the litterboxwith white vinegar and rinse with water toneutralize the odour. Vinegar can also be usedto remove accidents on carpeting or tileflooring. Be sure to test the vinegar on a smallinconspicuous area of your floor before using.

Giving your bunny too much freedom too sooncan contribute to poor litterbox habits.Gradually increase your rabbits freedom, afterhe is using the litterbox regularly. If your bunnyhas access to more than one room, give hisaccess to more then one box.

Put some hay at one end of the litterbox to makeit a more inviting place to visit. Some rabbitswill spend hours munching on hay in theirlitterboxes. In addition, many rabbits willurinate or defecate while eating.

Even spayed or neutered rabbits may mark theirterritory when a new rabbit (or other animal, forthat matter) is added to the household.Gradually, the need to mark territory will lessenas they get used to the newcomer.

A change in your rabbits environment or theaddition of stress (e.g., a new animal, newfurniture or new people) may cause atemporary lapse in even a spayed or neuteredrabbits litterbox habits. Keeping a close eye onyour bunny as he explores new territory willhelp to prevent accidents and new bad habitsfrom developing.

A rabbit that previously had good litterboxhabits or one that is having prolongedproblems achieving good litterbox habits mayhave a physical problem, such as a urinarytract infection, that requires medical care.

If you are having a hard time training yourbunny, try a new brand of litter.

WHAT TO USE FOR A LITTERBOXHard plastic storage bins that come in various

sizes, as well as traditional cat boxes, makefantastic litterboxes. The size of the litterboxshould be determined by the size of the bunnyand by the size of the pen or cage. You will stillneed room in the cage for food, toys, water anda place for the rabbit to lie down. Many bunnieslike to stretch out in their litterboxes so, as theygrow, the box will need to grow too. If your bunnyis kicking litter out of the box or urinating over theedge of the box, try a hooded cat-type litterbox,a deeper litterbox or a box with a lip around theoutside. If you have a special needs rabbit thathas trouble hopping in and out of his litterbox, trycutting one side down for easy entry. A litter panwith a low front side may help as well.

WHAT TYPE OF LITTER TO USESince rabbits spend a lot of time in their

litterboxes, finding a safe litter is important. Thefollowing types of litter are acceptable to use inyour rabbits litterbox: 1. Litters made from hardwood, such as Aspen.2. Wood stove pellets made from compressed

hardwoods. Wood stove pellets are sold athome improvement stores (in the seasonaldepartment) or stores that sell wood stoves. Insome areas this product is only available in thefall and winter months.

3. Products made from recycled, shredded orcompressed newspaper, e.g., Yesterdays Newsor Carefresh, are excellent choices. These litters

are biodegradable, dust-free and nontoxic, andare safe even if your rabbit should take a nibble.These litters are also absorbent and will controlodours well.

4. Newspaper with hay layered on top. If youhave a source of inexpensive hay (such as alocal farm), then using hay and newspaper inyour rabbits box is very economical andnontoxic. Dont worry, your rabbit will knowbetter than to eat the soiled parts. If you choosethis option, the litterbox will need to be cleanedevery day to prevent odours. Note: Dont be surprised if your rabbit

samples the new litter, However, if he decides tofeast on the litter (unless you use hay on top ofnewsprint and hes eating the hay), then you needto choose a new litter. You can prevent your rabbitfrom eating his litter by placing a grid made ofhardware cloth (without sharp edges) or hardplastic (such as the hard plastic grids that coverfluorescent lights) on top of the litter.

Things to consider: Biodegradable litters (e.g., woodstove pellets,

Carefresh, Yesterdays News or hay layeredover newsprint) make excellent fertilizers

Prolonged exposure to the phenols (aromaticoils) in softwood shavings, such as pine andcedar, may cause liver damage or upperrespiratory problems.

Clay cat litter is not a good choice if yourrabbit is a digger. No clay litter is 100% dustfree and the dust can cause respiratoryproblems. In addition, do not use clay cat littersthat contain deodorant crystals which may bedangerous if ingested.

The following types of litter may causeblockages or intestinal problems if ingested:clumping cat litter (clumps when it gets wet),clay cat litter and litters made of silica gel orsilica sand.

Litter products (e.g., CatWorks) that contain zincoxide may cause zinc poisoning if ingested.

Some sources claim that litters made fromcorncobs may cause gastrointestinal problemsif ingested, while other sources say thatcorncob litters are safe. Until we know for sure,we recommend using caution when using littersmade from corncobs.

Litter Training 101:Helpful tips to successfullytrain your bunny


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



It happened almost overnight: your cute, well-mannered little rabbit reached puberty.Suddenly, your baby has become unmanageable.He has taken an unexpected 'interest in yourankles. The circling and honking are certainlyvery cute, but the nipping and mountingdefinitely must stop. Plus, your rabbit hasseemingly forgotten why youve provided himwith a litterbox. Sound familiar? Read on to findout what you can do to help your rabbit return tohis sweet, well-mannered self.

BEHAVIOURAL BENEFITSUpon reaching sexual maturity (at 3-4 months

for small breeds and 4-6 month for largerbreeds), a rabbits behaviour becomes drivenprincipally by his or her hormones. While thecourtship behaviour (honking and circling)exhibited by an unaltered rabbit is cute andendearing at first, most of the changes yourrabbit will go through after reaching sexualmaturity are considered to be unacceptable.For example:1. Your rabbit may start spraying urine to markterritory. Even female rabbits may do this. If youhave ever been the object of your rabbitsaffections and been 'marked' with urine, youknow that it is not a pleasant gift. In addition,high hormone levels of unaltered rabbits givetheir urine a foul odour.2. Your previously litter trained rabbit maysuddenly stop using his litterbox. The urge tomark territory can be overwhelming for anunaltered rabbit. In addition to spraying, yourrabbit may start to drop feces around his area tomark territory. 3. Your previously cute, cuddly rabbit maysuddenly become aggressive. Females maybecome especially 'nest' or 'cage' protective andstart lunging, nipping and growling. 4. Chewing and digging activities may becomeintensified. Note that chewing and digging are

normal rabbit behaviours, but these activitiessometimes become intensified in unaltered rabbits.5. Your rabbit may start incessantly mountingthings such as other pets, your legs, your feet,etc. Rabbits - especially males - may becomeincreasingly interested in family members, otherpets or inanimate objects in a new, sexual way.Some females will mount, too. Yourrabbit may start honking andcircling the object of his or heraffections. Honking and circling arerabbit courtship behaviours. Somerabbits continue to honk and circleeven after being altered.6. Same-sex siblings or otherpreviously bonded pals of the samesex may start to fight to establishdominance. Changes in behaviourassociated with sexual maturity affect yourunaltered rabbit's ability to keep friendships ormake new ones. Altered rabbits of the same sexare much more likely to live in harmony than theirunaltered counterparts.

We know that spaying and neutering deters,if not eliminates, most negative behavioursassociated with sexual maturity within 3 months.It is unfair to surrender your rabbit to a shelter orto an outdoor or basement hutch because he or she has become a hormonally-chargednuisance. Have your pet spayed or neuteredand give him a chance to remain an importantmember of your family.

HEALTH BENEFITSUnspayed female rabbits have a very high

chance of developing uterine, mammary orovarian cancer during their lives. Unofficialstatistics indicate that between 50% to 80% of allunspayed females will be affected by cancer, byage 5. The incidence of testicular cancer inunneutered males is lower, but does occur. Bycontrast, spay and neuter surgeries, IF performed

by a rabbit savvy veterinarian, carry little risk(success rates should be close to 100%). Formore information, see our handout on finding arabbit savvy veterinarian.

PREVENTING UNWANTED LITTERSIn addition to the many health and behavioural

benefits of having your rabbits spayed orneutered, there is also the benefit of preventingpregnancies. Female rabbits do not come intoheat in the same way dogs do. They are able tobecome pregnant at any time.

Often people will decide to get two littermates, supposedly of the same sex, so that their

new pet will have company. However,it is extremely difficult to accuratelydetermine the gender of young rabbitsbefore the male's testicles descend (atapproximately 12-14 weeks of age).Many times, the unsuspecting ownerswill actually have two rabbits of theopposite sex. Within months, they willmostly likely have experienced thebirth of a number of new litters, whichoften results in the offspring being

surrendered to shelters or 'set free' in a park andleft to fend for themselves.

Please note that house rabbits are domesticprey animals who have no natural instincts ofhow to care for themselves in the wild. They areeasy targets for cats, dogs and wildlife and areunable to distinguish between safe and toxicplants. Most will die shortly after being released.This sad scenario is easily avoided by havingyour pets spayed and neutered.

You should only trust an experienced rabbit vetto assess the gender of a young rabbit, althoughthere are times when even a vet will havedifficulty until the rabbit is older. The best way toensure that unwanted litters don't occur is toNEVER introduce two unaltered rabbits, nomatter what the age. Baby rabbits need to staywith their mother until they are weaned at 8weeks old. Cute little babies may look small butthey are able to conceive by 14 weeks old. ALLsiblings should be separated from one anotherafter they have been weaned and until they havebeen accurately sexed and spayed or neutered.Leaving "baby" siblings together, or trying to

separate all the girls from the boys is a mistakethat many people make. It only takes onewrongly sexed rabbit to create a number of newlitters. DO NOT take this chance.

Finding homes for unwanted litters is not aneasy task, and oftenleads to more rabbitsbeing surrendered toshelters. For every litterthat is produced, anumber of shelterrabbits are euthanizedbecause there aresimply more rabbits inneed of homes thanthere are homes willingto adopt them.

A FINAL NOTEIf your rabbit is not spayed or neutered, please

consider having this important surgeryperformed on your pet. Your rabbit will notbecome fat and lazy or lose his personality afterthe surgery. In fact, your bunny will be happierand healthier for it. In addition, you will be ableto allow your rabbit to enjoy the company ofanother without contributing to the domesticrabbit overpopulation problem. By having yourpet spayed or neutered, you will be indirectlysaving the lives of shelter rabbits by notproducing new litters.

Rabbits can have a litter

every 31 DAYS.The female can get pregnant

within 24 hoursof giving birth

if not separatedfrom the male.

Male rabbits are still fertile up to a month

after beingneutered andshould remainseparated from

unaltered female rabbits

during this time.

Spaying and Neutering:Why it's so important


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250



Veterinarians who primarily examine and treatcats and dogs may not be adequately trained andexperienced in rabbit health issues or rabbitmedicine to properly treat your pet. Rabbits havesome unique characteristics and bodily processes,therefore finding a veterinarian who isknowledgeable in these areas is crucial to yourpet's health and well being. In addition, it isimportant to build a rapport with your veterinarianthrough regular bunny wellness check ups evenbefore your rabbit becomes ill.

WHERE TO START?The first step to finding a suitable veterinarian for

your rabbit is to decide what characteristics youconsider to be important in a veterinarian. Ofcourse, up-to-date knowledge about rabbit healthissues is very important, but there are also otherequally important qualities to look for whenchoosing a veterinarian. A veterinarian should beable and willing to learn, should be willing to listento you when you describe symptoms, shouldsuggest treatment options, and should allow you toconsider those options based on your ownknowledge of your pets personality and behaviour.After all, you know better than anyone what isnormal for your rabbit.

You also have to be able to communicate withyour veterinarian. Knowing you and your rabbitwill help your veterinarian decide which treatmentoptions are best when your rabbit is ill.

After you decide what qualities you consider tobe important in a veterinarian, you should to set upa consultation with several veterinarians. Checkyour local yellow pages for veterinarians whomention "exotics" in their advertisement. Phonethem and arrange to speak to them at theirconvenience or make an appointment with theveterinarian in person. You may even want to takeyour rabbit in for a bunny wellness check up andspeak to the veterinarian at that time. This will giveyou an opportunity to see how the veterinarian andclinic staff interact with you and your rabbit beforean emergency happens. If you are comfortablewith the veterinarian and clinic, and have beenable to "screen" them during a regular check up,

chances are that you will feel more at ease takingyour bunny there when he is ill.

It is important to take an active role in yourrabbits health by being familiar with rabbithealth issues and knowing the basics about rabbithealth care.

KNOW THE FACTSIndoor or companion rabbits vs livestockrabbits: There is no right numerical answer tothe question 'how many indoor or companionrabbits do you have as patients', but obviously,the more indoor or companion rabbits theveterinarian sees during the year, the better. Don'tassume that just because the veterinarian treatslivestock rabbits that he or she would be a goodchoice for your pet. Livestock rabbits are abusiness: companion rabbits are family members. Spaying and Neutering: Even a reallyqualified veterinarian will occasionally lose apatient, usually because of an undiagnosedproblem, but veterinarians should have highsuccess rates (very close to 100%) with spay andneuter surgeries.

Other facts about spaying and neutering thatyou should know include:1. Both the ovaries and the uterus should beremoved during the spay to prevent ovarian anduterine cancers and to decrease negative,hormonally driven behaviours.2. Closed neuters are preferable to open neuters.3. Pain medication should be given afterspays/neuters and other major surgeries.

Rabbits that are in pain recover much slowerthan those that have been given pain medicationafter a major surgery. Common analgesicscurrently used in rabbits include opioidderivatives [i.e., butorphanol (torbugesic) orbuprenorphine] and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs [NSAIDs; i.e., aspirin,flunixin (banamine) or ketoprofen (anafen)]. Anesthetic: Isoflurane gas is the safestanesthetic for rabbits. The rabbit should bemasked unless the veterinarian has a lot ofexperience with intubating. Intubating is moredifficult because rabbits have small tracheas.

Surgical Procedures: Rabbits cannot vomit.Therefore, they do not need to be fasted overnightbefore surgery. Some veterinarians like to removefood from the rabbits cage an hour beforesurgery, and this is acceptable. Because rabbitsare not fasted, their mouths should be rinsed of allfood debris before being anesthetized.Rabbit Safe Antibiotics: Before prescribingantibiotics, a culture and sensitivity test should beperformed to determine which bacteria, if any, iscausing the illness. Giving an antibiotic, such asBaytril, for all ailments before investigating thecause contributes to the existence of resistantbacteria. Sometimes a veterinarian may start arabbit on an antibiotic while waiting for the cultureand sensitivity test results.

Antibiotics from the penicillin family, includingAmoxicillin and Clavamox, should never begiven orally to a rabbit. These antibiotics candestroy the beneficial intestinal flora, possiblycausing death. Some forms of Penicillin can beused on rabbits if given as an injection, but thisis usually considered more of a 'second line'antibiotic choice.GI Stasis: Avoid a doctor who suggests surgeryto treat gastrointestinal (GI) stasis, unless all otheroptions have been exhausted. Motility drugs,such as Reglan (Metoclopramide) or Propulsid(Cisapride) can be used to help get the gut

moving again if there isn't an obstruction. If there is a completeobstruction -which can bediagnosed byan x-ray -prolonged useof gut motilitydrugs maycause the gut to rupture.

Keeping the rabbit well hydrated with sub-cutaneous fluids is also very important in treating aGI slowdown. Some veterinarians will also chooseto use enzymes, such as Papain and Bromelain,which may help break down mucus binding theobstruction, or more powerful, animal-derivedenzymes, which are thought to break downproteins, carbohydrates and fats. Otherveterinarians feel there is no real evidence that theuse of enzymes will help to break up these masses.

Teeth: Rabbits can develop molar spurs (sharpedges) that may cause painful abrasions to thecheek or tongue. If your rabbit's eating habitschange, it may be a sign that the rabbit hasdeveloped a problem with his teeth. Theveterinarian should use an otoscope orspeculum to check the molars, which are deepinside a rabbit's mouth. If molar spurs haveformed, they need to be clipped or grounddown (performed under a general anesthetic)or filed. Rabbits with maloccluded or mis-aligned incisors need to have their teethtrimmed regularly or the incisors removed. Teethshould be checked during each bunny wellnessvisit. A rabbit with a history of tooth problemsshould be checked more frequently to catchproblems early.Weekly maintenance checks: Even if youtake your rabbit to the veterinarian regularly forcheck ups, it is important to perform regularmaintenance checks at home. Becauserabbits hide symptoms of illness, these checkswill help you catch problems early on. Youshould check your rabbit's ears, eyes andincisors, as well as feel for lumps and bumps,etc. weekly.Continuing Education: Rabbit medicine is anever-changing, evolving field. It is important thatveterinarians continue to learn about the latesttreatments either by reading, consulting withother veterinarians or by attending conferences.Remember that rabbits have traditionally beenthought of as disposable pets. This attitude ischanging and, as we take more of an activeinterest in our pets health, more rabbits arereaching a ripe old age. Nonetheless, rabbitmedicine continues to change and evolve, andthere is still so much we do not know about ourfurry little friends.

THINGS TO REMEMBERIf you do not feel comfortable with a particular

veterinarian, continue your search. Do notchoose a veterinarian based on the cost oftreatment or the proximity of the clinic to yourhouse. Although a recommendation from anotherperson is helpful, do not base your opinion solelyon their recommendation. This is an importantdecision. You need to choose a veterinarian whois right for you and, of course, for your bunny.You can find a list of Ontario veterinarians thatare known to treat rabbits on our web site athttp://www.ontariorabbits.org/Health_vetlist.html.

Finding a vet for your rabbit


Toronto , ON M5C 2J4 416-655-1250


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