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The Cederberg on two wheels Like a conquering hero, Sean Fraenkel takes on six passes in the Cederberg, armed with a backpack, a bicycle and an optimistic view of his abilities…

TRUSTY STEED. The bike I use for cycle touring is a GT Zaskar Expert. It’s fun to ride on a weekend trail but also sturdy enough for a longer trip like this one.

Sean FraenkelOCCUPATION: Commercial diver

HOME TOWN: Cape Town

Cederberg CyCle

READERSTORY

T he cycle touring bug has bitten me: open spaces, being alone with my thoughts, the fresh air… That

said, I’m no fitness fanatic or streamlined cyclist. No, I’m more of a downhill specialist: I’m round and when I fall I roll rather far!

After tackling the Baviaans­kloof a while ago (see go! # 58), my next adventure is a roughly 300 km loop through the Ceder­berg, starting outside Citrusdal, heading north to Clan william, around to Wupperthal, down to Op­die­Berg and finishing again just before Citrusdal.

The adventure starts with a weekend at Beaverlac campsite with my girlfriend, Tracy Breeze, and my furry companions, Turbo and Tequila, two mischievous Jack Russels.

Lying in my hammock, rocking in a light breeze, I barely notice the acoustic guitar and pockets of laughter coming from the other campers as I drift off to sleep. But Mother Nature is not without a sense of irony: soon a squadron of mosquitoes descend in battle formation. Many layers of Tabard later, I manage to catch a few winks before tackling the first leg of my trip.

Day 1: Citrusdal to Clanwilliam (45 km) We strike camp early and make our way to Citrusdal, about 62 km away. Be sure to draw money either here or in Clanwilliam as most shops in the Cederberg do not accept credit cards.

From Citrusdal, we take the old route towards Clanwilliam – a corrugated dirt road along the banks of the Olifants River, which runs more or less parallel to the N7.

This is my first long­haul cycle since the Baviaanskloof and I’m not too sure of my fitness, so I

drive 20 km north of Citrusdal before pulling off. Tequila and Turbo have a swim in a pool on the river while I sort out my bike and my gear.

In addition to the trailer my uncle Bruce built for my last trip, I’m also towing a lightweight wooden box, which will allow me to carry all my gear and the dogs when they get tired.

Tracy leaves me with her usual comment when I am about to embark on a silly journey: not “Have fun, dear,” but rather “Try not to injure yourself this time, dear!” She knows I have as much natural talent as a bag of wet >

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READER STORYspaghetti – only I’m not as thin.

And I’m off! Albeit briefly. About 2 km down the road, after hitting corrugations at a fair pace, I hear a crunch, a clank and a screech… The front of the trailer has buckled under the pressure. Sorry dogs, end of trip!

I catch myself giving a secret sigh of relief. I love my animals (sometimes with gravy) and would not leave them out on purpose. But on this trip I think I’ve bitten off more than I can chew, considering the amount of gear, the terrain and my lack of fitness. Handling two dogs that should be on Ritalin could prove problematic.

The cellphone comes out: “Tracy, come back!”

I unpack, choose only the essentials and hoist the rucksack onto my shoulders.

It’s already 35 °C and it’s only 10 am. I consider cancelling the trip right there, but before I can say anything, Tracy bids me farewell again and I’m all alone.

By midday the sweltering heat starts to take its toll. The thought, “Tracy, come back!” repeats itself like a scratched vinyl record, circling around my head between the static whine of a headache and the sound of my blood beating in my ears. To alleviate the pain I play my iPod at full blast – the theme song from Last of the Mohicans, a piece of rousing classical music that inspires the hero to push onwards through trials and tribulations so he can save his girl…

I am a more simple creature and I’d happily settle for a milk­shake and a doughnut in an air­conditioned room.

I sigh with relief as I free­wheel into Clanwilliam in the late after noon. Stuff roughing it! It’s four­star for me, at Saint du Barrys Guest House ( www.saintdubarrys.com) with crisp white sheets and fillet steak.

The garden rooms back onto a fish pond and splash pool. After a long day in the saddle, my ritual is to jump into a pool

or shower with all my kit on to get rid of the day’s dirt. Once I’m done, the fish pond and pool are indistinguishable from each other. Luckily there are no other guests here tonight!

Day 2: Clanwilliam to Mertenhof Farm (54 km) The early morning greets me with a grey, gloomy grin. Rain clouds drift in – a welcome reprieve from yesterday’s heat.

The Pakhuis Pass starts about 4 km from the guesthouse. It’s a 20 km uphill slog, which probably wouldn’t be too much of a mis­sion for a seasoned cyclist. For me, however…

The road is newly tarred to the Wupperthal turn­off. The highest point is 922 m, with views all the way to the Karoo.

I progress deeper into the Cederberg and the rocks take on spectacular shapes. My first pit stop is at Klein Kliphuis ( 027 482 2564), a self­catering/camping spot in a small nature reserve. The tea garden is dis­appointing – it has hardly anything in stock. I settle for a Coke with no ice and some home­made biscuits.

Straddling lanes like a kid riding home after school, I coast for 8 km down the Pakhuis Pass, making sure I keep a finger on the brakes. An injury now would really ruin my trip, but I can’t help pushing it just a little. A man needs his adrenaline rushes.

Traveller’s Rest is a great place to recharge your batteries. Manager Anne­Lise and I share a rejuvenating pot of Cederberg rooibos tea. Then I push on.

Hoek se Berg Pass is an ex­tremely steep, bumpy descent into the Biedouw Valley, with some sections of concrete to ensure it remains navigable in wet weather.

I’m planning to overnight at Mertenhof Farm ( 027 482 2845), which has a campsite, 4x4 trails and self­catering facilities. I make camp under a corrugated roof. The minimalist

NOSEDIVE. This trailer was designed to carry my gear and dogs. Unfortunately (or fortu-nately!) the nose buckled near Clanwilliam – dogs and trailer were picked up by my girlfriend.

VYGIE COUNTRY. When you’re cycling you literally have time to stop and smell the flowers. Tour the Cederberg in springtime and you’ll see all sorts of wildflowers colouring the veld.

but adequate facilities keep me out of the light breeze and the drizzle. Near my nest is a small, muddy dam, and I partake in my travelling ritual with gusto.

Dinner tonight is an over­priced, dehydrated meal. Serving suggestion: two. Yeah right! If you’ve been on the road, believe me you’ll want the whole packet for yourself.

Day 3: Mertenhof Farm to Wupperthal (16 km)The 10 km climb up the Kouberg Pass wears me out. I pull into Wupperthal with the daunting prospect of climbing the near­vertical Eselbank Pass on the other side of town, so I decide to take a rest day.

Wupperthal was established in 1830 as an outpost of the Rhenish Missionary Society and it seems that little has changed since then. The founder of the town, Johann Gottlieb Leipoldt, is buried opposite the gabled, whitewashed church. His former home now serves as a tiny museum and tea room. Get there early and listen to the sounds of schoolchildren and birds chirping in the bluegum trees while you enjoy freshly baked scones.

Another place worth visiting is the Wupperthal shoe factory, where you can pick up a pair of retro handmade veldskoens.

After taking a look at the natural pools a 10­minute walk from the church, I decide to camp in the ravine next to the water.

I pick up some supplies and snacks from the spaza shop and heft my backpack (and myself) up the dusty track and down a precarious descent into the ravine, where sun­bleached boulders and red sandstone rock faces hide me from the world. I float on my back in the deep pool, staring at clouds that drift idly in the afternoon breeze.

Floating motionless, I get the fright of my life when my body starts tingling. I regain my composure and see that it’s

just tiny Clanwilliam redfin fish exfoliating my skin.

My campsite is a patch of fine, white sand. Trying to read once the sun goes down is nearly impossible. My headlamp serves as a beacon to all manner of religious insects, headbutting me in their quest to be enlightened.

Day 4: Wupperthal to Cederberg Oasis (43 km) Before sunrise I go for a skinny­dip in the stream. The chilly water washes the grogginess out of me and I’m instantly alert, ready for the challenges that lie ahead.

Eselbank Pass is a steep dirt road. A “4x4 only” sign marks the start of the ominous ascent. I trade my cycling shoes for my hiking takkies and decide to walk.

A man who calls himself Oom Paul is kind enough to fill my water bottles in Eselbank, which is little more than a rough road leading in and out. As I ride through the isolated settlement I swear I can hear a banjo playing the Deliverance tune… or maybe it’s just the heat getting to me.

Cederberg Oasis is a real oasis. I’m the only man here. Not that I’m on the market, but I always welcome some conversation with the fairer sex. First up: a gaggle of Afrikaans girls who have just completed the Wolfberg Cracks hike. Later that evening a group of German medical students arrives and I consider it my patriotic duty to strike up a conversation with them. They are courteous enough to entertain me for a while before dinner, which is a giant T­bone cooked to perfection by hostess and owner Chantal Karsten.

I abuse the swimming pool and get some odd looks – even from the Germans – when I hang my clothes out to dry on a fence pole.

Day 5: Cederberg Oasis to Oppi Berg, 62 km After breakfast and a cold shower I’m on my way again. The Grootrivier Pass forces the

BEAVERLAC BLISS. Humans and animals alike will enjoy a weekend of camping and swimming at Beaverlac, 60 km from Citrusdal.

OUT OF THE DRIZZLE. Facilities at Mertenhof Farm are basic but comfortable. That’s the way I like it when I’m on a long cycling trip. I just wish I had packed more food!

WHICH WAY? The Cederberg has some of the best dirt roads in the country, in my opinion at least! If you’re looking for a map, Peter Slingsby’s is the best (visit www.themaps.co.za).

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stiffness from my legs. Next stop is Mount Ceder

Guest Lodge, a four­star es­tablishment. Images of thick chocolate milkshakes and slices of Black Forest cake fill my head, but all I can find at Mount Ceder is frothed milk with Nesquick and two koeksisters.

A light tailwind assists my progress up Blinkberg Pass and along the undulating dirt road through the southern Cederberg.

A church steeple marks the small town of Op­die­Berg. I make a quick stop at the Spar adjacent to a bottle store, which has its own congregation loitering on the pavement outside.

The rooms at Oppi Berg Guesthouse and Restaurant ( 023 317 0044) are full but the owners’ daughter lets me stay in the main house for the night.

Day 6: Oppi Berg to Suikerbos Farm Cottage (62 km) This is the final leg of my journey. The first 43 km are scary. The road

is tarred but it has little or no shoulder and the traffic is heavy, compared with what I’ve become accustomed to. The silence of the wide valley surrounded by jagged mountain peaks is interrupted by the constant drone of tractor engines.

Middelberg Pass is the final, steep challenge of my cycling adventure. I pause at the top of the pass to take in the views of the valleys on both sides of the summit.

Suikerbos Farm Cottage overlooks Citrusdal. Tracy, her sister and her sister’s husband will meet me here for a two­day recovery stint before we all head back home.

Why cycle when it’s so much easier to just drive in a car? Well, my bicycle allows me to slow down and focus my thoughts. When you’re alone on an empty road, surrounded by mountains, you can filter out the background chatter and get down to the nitty gritty of the experience. Try it out yourself sometime; you’ll see what I mean.

YEE-HA! If you’re into cycling, put “Coast down the Grootrivier Pass in the southern Cederberg” on your to-do list. After you’ve cleaned the bugs off your teeth, have a snack at Mount Ceder.

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Clanwilliam

Wupperthal

Citrusdal

Mertenhof Farm

Eselbank

Cederberg Oasis

Mount Ceder

Suikberbos Guest Farm

Op-Die-Berg

Cederberg Wilderness Area

WESTERN CAPE

to Klawer

to Pi

ketb

erg

R363

R303

N7

N7

Pakhuis PassHoek se Berg Pass

Kouberg Pass

Eselbank Pass

Grootrivier Pass

Blinkberg Pass

15 km

Matjiesrivier