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EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

European RegionalDevelopment Fund

CUB INGLES 10/10/07 22:23 Página 1

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CIUDADUNIVERSITARIA

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CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 914 167 341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2004

cartografiagcar@infonegocio.com

N-342

MÁLAGA 129 km AEROPUERTO 13 km

N-432 N-323

JAÉN 105 km PULIANAS 4 km ALFACAR 7 km

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Granada

C O N T E N T S

Introduction 1

Tours round the city 6Alhambra and Generalife 6Albayzín and Sacromonte 12From the Cathedral to La Cartuja 18From Plaza Nueva to Realejo 24

Tours round the province 30Sierra Nevada 30Las Alpujarras 32Costa Tropical 36Guadix and the Altiplano 40El Poniente 44

Leisure and culture 48

General information 57

Atlantic Ocean

France

Ireland

Madrid

Paris

London

Dublin

CantabrianSea

MediterraneanSea

CeutaMelilla

Portugal

Lisbon

UnitedKingdom

Cover:La Alhambra. Granada

Text:Manuel Mateo Pérez

Translation:Hilary Dyke NIPO: 704-07-128-7

Published by:© Turespaña

Secretaría de Estadode Turismo y Comercio

Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y Comercio

Fotographs:Turespaña Picture Library Printed in Spain

Design:P&L MARÍN 3rd Edition

Printed by:EGESA

D.L. M-43708-2007

CUB INGLES 10/10/07 22:23 Página 2

District of Albayzín

INTR

OD

UCT

ION

he city of Granada, which shares its name with oneof the eight provinces making up Andalusia, is oneof the most beautiful, historical and legendary inthe world. Situated to the east of the region, the

provincial capital, flanked by the Rivers Darro and Genil,sprawls across the foothills of Sierra Nevada. To the west lies theflat, fertile region of La Vega; to the north, the Altiplano, ortableland; and to the south, Costa Tropical. A designatedNature Park and Reserve of the Biosphere, Sierra Nevada boaststhe highest peaks on the Iberian Peninsula: the Mulhacéntowers above us at 3,482 m, while the symbolic Veleta has analtitude of 3,398 m.

Well-blessed by art and history, Granada was the peninsula’s lastArab kingdom. Its prize monument, the timeless Alhambra,looks down onto the old districts of Albaycín, Sacromonte andRealejo, while the modern city revolves round avenues such asGran Vía de Colón and Reyes Católicos.

Granada has an excellent road network: the A-44 Expressway(E-902) goes to the north of Andalusia; the A-92 takes us toMálaga and Seville and, towards the east, to Almería, Murcia

TGRANADA-INGLES 8/10/07 10:03 Página 1

and Levante; and the N-432,known as the Caliphate Route,covers the distance to Córdoba.

The airport (Chauchina), just 17 km from the capital, runsregular flights to Spain’s majorcities. For those preferring to travelby train, there is a rail service tothe country’s mainline stations.

As far as accommodation isconcerned, Granada is one of thebest choices Andalusia has to offer.In addition to a vast selection ofthree, four and five-star hotels, wefind the much-admired parador, orstate hotel. Situated inside theAlhambra enclosure, it is one ofthe most popular on the nationalnetwork. When it comes to eating,the menus at the city’s manyrestaurants offer dishes to suit alltastes and pockets.

A short but severe winter comesbetween a mild autumn andspring. Because of the city’sproximity to Sierra Nevada,temperatures vary greatly from dayto night. Winter visitors areadvised to bring warm clothes. In summer, temperatures are lowerthan in the other Andalusian

capitals and it can become quitechilly after dark. The rainy seasoncomes in the autumn and winter months.

HISTORY

There is some discrepancy aboutthe origin of Granada. Accordingto one legend, it was founded byone of Noah’s daughters, whileanother claims that this honour fellto Granata, the daughter ofHercules. One thing, however, isclear: long before the arrival of theMoslems, Granada had been

GRANADA-INGLES 8/10/07 10:03 Página 2

important as an Iberian andRoman settlement. The city playeda central role in the peninsula’sChristianisation. Documentsdating back to 60 A.D. speak ofthe city’s patron saint, Cecilio, whostarted to spread the Gospel in thiscorner of Roman Baetica.Furthermore, around the year 300,the Spanish Church held its firstcouncil in what was then known as Iliberis.

Some time after the Moslemscrossed the Strait of Gibraltar in711, they founded the Caliphate of

Córdoba. On its dissolution,Granada began to acquire greaterrelevance. In 1030, the city wasmoved from Elvira to the AlbayzínHill for defence purposes.Although the North African ZiríDynasty began to proclaim its firstkings at that time, it was not until1238 that Ibn al-Ahmar, a kingborn in the province of Jaén,would conquer the city andproclaim the first governmentunder the Nazarí Dynasty. His descendants governed the last Moslem stronghold on theIberian Peninsula for 254 years.Particularly noteworthy among thedynasty’s kings were Yusuf I andMohammed V, known, accordingto the chronicles of the period, notonly for their sense of justice andwisdom but also for their part inthe construction of some of themost stunningly luxurious quartersat the Alhambra and theGeneralife.

Finally, on January 2 1492, KingBoabdil surrendered to theCatholic Sovereigns, Ferdinandand Isabella, when they enteredGranada and so completed theReconquest. Initially, the terms ofsurrender were generous.

The Alhambra with Sierra Nevada in the background

Sierra Nevada

GRANADA-INGLES 8/10/07 10:03 Página 3

Royal crown. Royal Chapel

While Queen Isabella insisted thatcultural co-existence was possible,her great-grandson, Philip II, sonof Emperor Charles I, put an endto those dreams of peace andharmony by enforcing decreesrestricting the Moslem population’srights and liberties. The year 1500witnessed the first uprising atAlbayzín and 61 years later, Johnof Austria crushed a Moorish risingin the Alpujarras and with it, therebel leader, Aben Humeya.In the following centuries,Granada’s monumental heritagewould multiply. During the 1600s,the city adhered to the principlesof baroque, building monasteries,convents and churches inaccordance with the artistic canonsof the period. With the arrival ofthe nineteenth century, the cityexperienced another golden agewhen the bourgeoisie, which hadamassed a fortune from the sugarplantations on Costa Tropical,sponsored the construction of avast avenue in honour ofChristopher Columbus: Gran Víade Colón. The sides of the avenue

were lined with modernist andhistoricist buildings of great artisticvalue. Meanwhile, the city spreadto Camino de Ronda, the dividingline between the city and the fertileplain. New parks and gardens weredesigned, together with longboulevards and a series ofcommunities to accommodate thegrowing population. After theCivil War of 1936-1939, Granadaembarked upon a slow revival inthe economic, social and culturalspheres, ensuing in theconsolidation of its university, theever-greater popularity of SierraNevada as a winter sports resortand the recovery of a good numberof historical buildings, which havesince turned into hives of activityas Andalusia’s leading culturalcentres.

THE ANDALUSÍ LEGACY AND ITS ROUTES

The Legado Andalusí, orAndalusian Legacy, is a touristicand cultural project aimed at the

GRANADA-INGLES 8/10/07 10:03 Página 4

recovery and promotion of thehistorical features of a civilisationwhich flourished in the south ofthe Iberian Peninsula for eight longcenturies. Run by a foundation ofthe same name, the project is basedat Corral del Carbón de Granada,an old commodities exchange notfar from Calle Reyes Católicos.The foundation has plotted fourtouristic routes, which togetherform a designated EuropeanCultural Itinerary. These routesstart out from towns and villageswith close ties to the historical pastof Al-Andalus and end at thepalatine complex of the Alhambra,the most impressive fortified townborn of that culture.

Firstly, the Caliphate Route,running from Córdoba to Granadathrough open country and olivegroves that spread into thesouthern area of the neighbouringprovince of Jaén; secondly, the

Washington Irving Route, whichstarts out from Seville and makesits way past hills, farmland, plainsand upland; thirdly, Ruta de losNazaríes, beginning in the north of Jaén, coming down theGuadalquivir Valley to cross SierraMágina and then into themountains encircling Granada; and lastly, the Almorávides andAlmohades Route, setting off fromCádiz and passing through Málagato end in the capital of theevocative Nazarí Kingdom, withthe Granada regions of El Ponienteand the Alpujarras to one side.

Visitors are provided with “touristpassports” which they may havestamped at the information boothssituated on all the routes makingup the Legado Andalusí.Afterwards, these passports may be exchanged for a gift at thefoundation’s headquarters.

5

Cuarto Dorado

GRANADA-INGLES 8/10/07 10:03 Página 5

Alhambra and Generalife

6

Tours roundthe city

entitling the holder to 10 freerides on any of the microbusor city bus routes.

As a rule, museums are openfrom Tuesday afternoons toSundays and are closed onMondays and on Tuesdaymornings. Further informationis available at the touristinformation offices.

As far as monuments go, theAlhambra is the most prizedpossession of Al-Andalus. Itsname is taken from the Arabicterm meaning the red one.Reclining on the Sabika Hill,separated from Albayzín bythe River Darro, the Alhambrais much more than abedazzling palatine complex.The castle, palaces andgardens, charged with

As most of the city’s sights arewithin easy reach of oneanother, the best way to getabout is by foot. However, if transport is required, thereare taxi ranks on the mainavenues and streets while the city bus company runsservices to all the districts.

It is a good idea to buy theGranada Tourist’s Voucher toavoid queuing when wishingto visit the city’s main sightsand museums. On sale at thebooths in the Alhambra andGeneralife and also atbranches of the savings bank,Caja de Granada, the vouchercovers admission to thecathedral, the Royal Chapel,the Monasteries of La Cartujaand San Jerónimo, Parque delas Ciencias and, of course, tothe Alhambra and Generalife.It also includes free admissionto several museums while

GRANADA-INGLES 8/10/07 10:03 Página 6

quarter. At the front, we seethe tower, Torre de la Vela,overlooking Granada and the plain.

The gate, Puerta del Vino,leads into the palace quarters.A flight of steps takes usdown to the Mexuar, onceused as a meeting room bycouncils of ministers. Justopposite, the oratory,adjacent to the CuartoDorado, or Golden Room,where the sultan would holdhis audiences before abustling court of publicservants and administrators.The exquisitely-decoratedfaçade of the Cuarto Doradopatio is one of the finest to befound in the Alhambra. In the

symbolic and mythologicalcontent, have earned theAlhambra the UNESCO title of World Heritage Site fortheir great historical andartistic value.

The usual way to approachthe Alhambra is via PlazaNueva. Cuesta de Gomérezleads to the Renaissance gateknown as Las Granadas, whichopens into a thick forest. The path on the left takes usto the pillar, Pilar de Charles V.The gate, Puerta de la Justicia,is decorated with a hugehorseshoe arch crowned by acarved open hand and a key,the dynastic and religioussymbols of the monarchs whoonce resided in the palaces.

A slope climbs up to Plaza delos Aljibes, to the left ofwhich stands the castle, theAlcazaba, the complex’s oldestconstruction, together withthe towers, Torres Bermejas.With a triangular footing, thecastle is surrounded by solidwalls defended by loomingtowers. Inside lie the paradeground and the military

The Alhambra at night

Alcazaba

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middle, we notice a fountain,a replica of the one built indays of greater glory. Thereare two doors in the façade:the one on the right led tothe family quarters in the timeof the sultanate and the oneon the left, to Patio de losArrayanes.

In any Arab construction, thepatio is the main feature, allthe more so when it formspart of a royal enclosure.Patio de los Arrayanes boastsa huge pond reflecting thetower, Torre de Comares, andthe seven arches in openplasterwork showing the wayinto the chamber, Sala de laBarca. The patio, originallybuilt for governmentalpurposes, is hemmed by therooms of the palace, Palaciode Comares, the residence ofthe sultan’s four legitimatewives. Inside Torre Comares,we find Salón deEmbajadores, where themonarch would receive his

most distinguishedambassadors. It was here, forinstance, that Boabdilsurrendered Granada to theCatholic Sovereigns. Thisspacious hall is decorated withceramics, plasterwork andinterlaced designs, while thewalls bear verses and words ofexaltation inscribed by skilfulartisans from faraway lands.The most recurrent exaltationreads as follows: “It is to Godalone that grandeur, glory,the empire and powerbelong”. Inside, we see ninerooms, all the same except theone in the centre, oppositethe entrance. Reserved for thesultan, it looks towards thepool in Patio de los Arrayanes.The breathtaking ceiling,covered in carved cedar wood, depicts the sevenheavens of the cosmos, thepath which, according toIslamic doctrine, must betravelled by the devotee’s souluntil reaching the eighth, thehome of Allah.

8

Patio de los Arrayanes

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Next to Palacio de Comaresstands Palacio de los Leones,the monarchs’ privateresidence, built on theinstructions of Mohammed Vin the last third of thefourteenth century. Thepalace is laid out round apatio enclosed by 124 slendercolumns evoking an idyllicpalm grove. The decoration,in the form of stalactites,stucco and plasterwork,symbolises one of the finestconstructions in the history of Al-Andalus.

In the centre sits a fountain,supported by 12 lions. Informer times, this fountainwas clad in golden hues whichheightened its marblebackground.

Surrounding the patio are thepalace chambers, such as Salade los Abencerrajes, situatedat the southern end, oppositeFuente de los Leones. The chamber takes its namefrom a powerful NorthAfrican family who had aconfrontation with Granada’slast Moorish king. Legend hasit that the family’s worthiestmales were murdered on thisvery spot. By all accounts, theorder was issued by Boabdilhimself when he learnt thathis wife was having an affairwith one of them in theprincely gardens of theGeneralife.

Sala de los Reyes, situated toone side of Patio de losLeones, is the chamber where

Patio de los Leones

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receptions and festivities usedto be held. The vault isbedecked in frescoes, thework of the Genoan artistswho lived in Granada duringthe final years of the NazaríKingdom. Next, Sala de lasDos Hermanas, leading to thevantage point known asMirador de Lindaraja, liesbeneath a sumptuous cupolafrom which 5,000 tiny prismsare hung. On its walls, we canread the Alhambra’s mostrenowned verses: “It is agarden that I am, adorned bybeautiful things; you willlearn of my being if youcontemplate my beauty”.

Close by Mirador de Lindaraja,we come to Sala de las Frutas,where Julio Aquiles andAlexander Mayner, both

pupils of Raphael, painted theceiling frescoes in 1537. This is also the chamber where Washington Irvingstayed and wrote his famousTales of the Alhambra.

Walking along one of thegalleries, we reach El Partal,belonging to the Alhambra’searly palatial quarters. As weapproach the pond, we mightstop to admire the reflectionof the tower, Torre de lasDamas, before continuingtowards the Generalife,passing Torre de la Cautivaand a bit further on, Torre delas Infantas.

Above the Alhambra, at thefoot of the hillock, Cerro delSol, awaits the Generalife,whose name comes from the

10

Gardens at the Generalife

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Arabic for the architect’sgarden. This recreationalenclosure was used by theNazarí monarchs as a retreatin the hottest months of theyear. Terraced gardens ofexuberant vegetationrefreshed by countless waterfeatures surround Patio de laAcequia, an evocative pavilionlooking out onto Granada’sold quarters.

The complex forming theAlhambra has a number ofpost-Reconquest monuments,such as the former Convent ofSan Francisco, now a statehotel. Originally, Isabella theCatholic was buried in theconvent’s cloister. Years later,however, her body was takento the chapel, Capilla Real deGranada, to lie beside that ofher husband, Ferdinand.Another instance is theChurch of Santa María de laAlhambra, the city’s firstcathedral. In the Gothic style,it was erected on the remainsof the royal mosque. Adjacentstands the palace, Palacio deCarlos V, one of the mostimpressive Renaissancemonuments in Spain.Designed by Pedro Machucain 1527, the building boasts adressed-stone façade. Thesquare footing contrasts withthe circular, colonnaded patio,nowadays the frequent sceneof cultural events. Entering

the Renaissance building, wemight visit the museum,Museo de la Alhambra, withits displays of Hispanic-Arabart, covering the period fromthe eleventh to the sixteenthcenturies. In addition to vasesand decorative objects, wefind an interesting collectionof ceramics, polychromewooden pieces and finely-modelled plasterwork.

Upstairs is the Museo de BellasArtes, or Fine Arts Museum,with a comprehensiveexhibition of pictorial work bysixteenth and seventeenth-century artists. A goodnumber of works of art fromthe city’s churches andconvents are kept in themuseum’s rooms, which havebeen entrusted with some ofAlonso Cano’s best canvases.

11

Palacio de Carlos V

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Albayzín is the Andalusídistrict par excellence. Firstinhabited in the eleventhcentury, it was during thetime of the Nazarí Dynastythat it became a solid urbannucleus after the constructionof medinas and the mainresidences and mosques. Our tour commences at thesquare, Plaza Nueva (1),adjacent to Plaza de SantaAna, where there is a churchof the same name. Designedby Renaissance architectDiego de Siloé, the church wasbegun in 1501 and completed62 years later. Salient featuresinclude the prepossessingfaçade, the Mudéjar tower

12

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and the chancel, decoratedwith beams in the interlacedstyle so characteristic ofMoorish architecture. To our left, the River Darro,observed by buildings piercingits banks; and, to our right,the bridges leading to thebusy districts of Almanzoraand Antequeruela, nestling atthe foot of the Alhambra.

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Along one of the streetsclimbing up towards Albayzínstands the house, Casa de losPisas (2), a palace dedicatedto the life and work of San Juan de Dios andcurrently in the hands of thereligious order known as Los Hospitalarios. Cuesta deSanta Inés, just opposite thebridge, Puente de la Cabrera,leads to the convent of thesame name.

Facing the remains of Puentedel Cadí, the bridge whichonce joined the Alhambra toAlbayzín, is El Bañuelo (3),one of the oldest and bestpreserved Arab baths in Spain.Dating back to the mid-eleventh century, therectangular building has a setof arches supported bycapitals from various historicalperiods. Inside, the classicalquarters of the hammam canstill be seen. The cold, warmand hot rooms were oncefrequented by the inhabitants

of this densely-populateddistrict, traditionallyassociated with handicraftsand trade.

Continuing along Carrera delDarro, we arrive at theConvent of Santa Catalina deZafra (4), founded in 1520 by Hernando de Zafra,secretary to the CatholicSovereigns. The Renaissancefrontispiece conceals aMoorish home dating back tothe fourteenth century.

Casa de Castril (5) is asixteenth-century palace nowhousing Granada’sArchaeological Museum. The astonishing plateresquefaçade is attributed to Diegode Siloé. Of particular note isthe frontispiece lintel,adorned with carvings of theformer occupants’ coats-of-arms. Stepping inside, we arestruck by the staircase and thearcaded patio. The exhibitionrooms contain a display of the

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14

various cultures that havepassed through Granada andprovince, with a special focuson prehistoric times, the eraof Roman civilisation and theearly years of Moslemdomination.

Opposite Casa de Castril, weare drawn towards the Churchof San Pedro and San Pablo(6), with a diaphanous porchopening onto the riverbank.The Latin cross footing isenhanced by chapels in theRenaissance style wherebaroque images ofconsiderable artistic interestare worshipped. A splendidMudéjar roof gives the churcha finishing touch. Calle Gloriaslopes up towards the Churchof San Juan de los Reyes (7),built on the remains of anearly mosque. The Christian

Church of San Pedro and San Pablo

bell tower was erected on theold thirteenth-centuryminaret.

Carrera del Darro ends atPaseo de los Tristes (8), one ofGranada’s liveliest and mostcosmopolitan spots. Fromhere, we enjoy a beautifulview of the Alhambra, withTorre de Comares as the focal

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15Paseo de los Tristes

Taking Calle Peso de la Harina,we reach the district ofSacromonte, where most ofthe cave dwellings have beendug out of the hill known asValparaíso. Traditionally, thewhitewashed, working-classhomes, which seem to beembedded in the earth, havebeen inhabited by gypsyfamilies who liven up theevenings by organisingflamenco fiestas, knownlocally as zambras. At the endof the slope, we see theabbey, Abadía de Sacromonte(11), founded by ArchbishopPedro de Castro in theseventeenth century. It is herethat the remains of Saints andMartyrs Cecilio and Tesifonteare worshipped and the LibrosPúmbleos were found.According to legend, thesebooks were commissioned byKing Solomon.

District of Sacromonte

point. On the other side ofthe bridge, Puente de losTristes, we take the pathwayto the fountain, Fuente delAvellano, a meeting point forthinkers, musicians and poetssince the early twentiethcentury. The fountain wasonce frequented by people ofthe calibre of Ganivet, Fallaand Lorca.

Walking along Cuesta delChapiz, we pass Palacio de losCórdova (9), now the premisesof Granada’s MunicipalArchive. Further on, we cometo Casa del Chapiz (10), whichhas been converted into theSchool of Arab Studies.Considered to be the city’slargest Moorish house, theremarkable building consistsof two tastefully-decoratedArab homes dating from thestart of the sixteenth century.

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View from Mirador de San Nicolás

Alhambra and Generalife. On a clear day, it is possible tosee the highest peaks of SierraNevada on the left and thecontemporary city on theright. The square is also thelocation of the Church of SanNicolás, a plain, mid-sixteenth-century Mudéjar temple notfar from the remains of a wellgoing back to Arab times. Justbelow the square, overlookingthe Alhambra, there is agardened villa which was oncethe home of Belgian painterMax Moreau. The artistbequeathed his work to thecity and it may now be seenalongside temporaryphotography exhibitions.

Now we retrace our steps andreturn to Cuesta del Chapiz tovisit the square, Plaza delSalvador (12), and the churchof the same name,constructed on the remains ofanother of the many mosquesdotting the cityscape in Nazarítimes. Inside, the courtyard isstill in tact, surrounded by latethirteenth-century pointedhorseshoe arches.

Close by Plaza del Salvador isthe vantage point, Mirador deSan Nicolás (13), one of thebusiest and best-knownsquares in Granada. Here, wepause to admire the finest ofpanoramic views of the

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A few streets further up, wecome to Plaza Larga, the heartof Upper Albayzín, and thearch, Arco de las Pesas, builtin the eleventh century by thekings of the Zirí Dynasty. Thewall, also known as AlcazabaCadima, runs parallel toCuesta Alhacaba. In days longgone, the eleventh-centurywall linked up with the gate,Puerta de Elvira. Nowadays, itsremaining sections stand closeto the palace, Palacio de Dar-al-Horra (14), which, aslegend would have it, used tobe the residence of SultanaAixa, the mother of KingBoabdil. Nearby we comeupon the markedly Gothic-Mudéjar monastery,Monasterio de Santa Isabel laReal (15), founded by theCatholic Queen. In Plaza deSan Miguel Bajo, a church ofthe same name awaits us and,a few steps away, the Churchof San José (16), formerly a

17

marabout mosque which wasbuilt in the eleventh centuryand is considered to be one ofthe city’s oldest constructions.To return to our startingpoint, Plaza Nueva, we godown Calle Calderería Viejaand perhaps stop off at one ofGranada’s legendary teaparlours or take a look insidethe arts and crafts shops nowrun by Granada’s Moslemcommunity.

Casa de Castril and the Church of San Pedro

Monasterio de SantaIsabel la Real

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The façade, completed in1667, depicts a vasticonographic scene dividedinto three sections after themanner of Roman triumphalarches. Inside, the cathedral issplit into five large navesdesigned by the Gothicarchitect, Enrique Egas. Muchlater, when Diego de Siloéwas put in charge of theworks, a series of thickcolumns adorned with capitalsin the classical style wasadded. In the centre of thebasilic footing, we find thehigh altar, surrounded by an

18

Granada Cathedral (17),situated at the back of GranVía de Colón, was erected onthe pillars of the mainmosque. Although theoriginal design was of Gothicinfluence, architect Diego deSiloé would transform it into acolossal Renaissance workwhich would be finished off inthe seventeenth century withAlonso Cano’s baroquefaçade. All three styles co-existin perfect harmony in one ofthe most lavish places ofworship to be found in thesouthern peninsula.

From the Cathedral to La Cartuja

Cathedral

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enormous ambulatoryspanned by doors openinginto a group of chapelsdedicated to various fathersof the Catholic Church.

Commissioned in 1505, theRoyal Chapel or Capilla Real(18), built in the flamboyantGothic style, guards themortal remains of theCatholic Sovereigns, of Janeof Castile, also known as Janethe Mad, and of her husband,Philip the Fair. The crypt is

19

año 2004

Royal Chapel

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entered from the façade,which looks out onto CalleOficios. Features of interestinclude the royal pantheonsand the stylishly impressivewrought iron grille, the workof Master Bartolomé. Themuseum at the Royal Chapelpossesses one of the mostfascinating displays ofreligious art to be found inthe province of Granada.Apart from a collection oftombs, a room has been setaside to exhibit a number ofroyal appurtenances, such asthe crown and sceptre borneby Isabella the Catholic whenthe city was taken. We alsosee a large collection offifteenth-century paintingsbelonging to the FlamencoSchool, a gift from the Queenof Castile just before she

died. Wedged between theRoyal Chapel and thecathedral are the church,Iglesia del Sagrario, and La Lonja.

Crossing Calle Oficios, wecome to the Madraza (19), theold School of Koranic Studiesfounded by Yusuf I. Convertedat a later date to house theTown Hall, the building is nowpart of the University ofGranada. A few steps awaystands the José GuerreroCentre, named after one ofthe most outstanding artists inSpain’s mid-twentieth-centuryabstract art movement. A modern building facing oneside of the cathedral, thecentre is the location of someof the Granada-born painter’sbest works.

20

Palacio de la Madraza

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The Alcaicería (20) was theleading silk market during theNazarí Era. Rebuilt after aterrible fire, it preserves its oldlabyrinthine layout, occupiedby small businesses sellingjewellery, silverware, ceramicsand marquetry work.

A stone’s throw away fromthe main sightseeing area isPlaza de Bibrrambla, popularlyknown as the Flower Market.This square is ideal for takinga leisurely stroll after thehustle and bustle of thenearby shopping area.

Calle de San Jerónimo runsinto Plaza de la Universidad,the site of UniversidadLiteraria (21), the universityfounded by Emperor Charles Vand now the premises of theLaw Faculty. Next to it, one ofthe city’s most richly-decorated churches, Iglesia delos Santos Justo y Pastor (22),commissioned by the Societyof Jesus, stands proud of itsornate façade and high altar,set beneath a superb baroquereredos. Close at hand is the

Monasterio de San Jerónimo

hall of residence, ColegioMayor de San Bartolomé ySantiago (23), a sixteenth-century building arrangedround a lightsome, two-storeycloister.

Walking down Calle deJerónimo, we reach thechurch, Iglesia del PerpetuoSocorro, on the corner of thestreets, San Juan de Dios andGran Capitán. If we turn intoGran Capitán, we arrive at themonastery, Monasterio de SanJerónimo (24), on whichbuilding commenced in 1504.

What strikes us most aboutthe monastery is its twogardened cloisters,

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embellished by fountains andorange trees, not forgettingthe adjacent church with itsengaging altarpiece and choir,the work of Granada’s mostcelebrated sixteenth andseventeenth-century artists.

Further up the street, wemight stop at Hospital yBasílica de San Juan de Dios(25), built in accordance withbaroque canons. The hospitalruns round two patiosdecorated in Granada tilingand murals, while the churchis noted for itschurrigueresque altarpiece,beautifully carved out of finewood.

22

Hospital Real

Calle San Juan de Dios slopesup towards the gardens,Jardines del Triunfo, passingGran Vía de Colón on theright. One of thecontemporary city’s mainarteries, Gran Vía was built inthe early twentieth century bythe sugar barons and isreplete with eye-catchinghistoricist and modernistbuildings.

The main point of interest inJardines del Triunfo is HospitalReal (26), the first civil workto be sponsored by theCatholic Sovereigns. Started in1504, the building might bedescribed as being midway

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23

between Late Gothic andEarly Renaissance. It is nowoccupied by the offices of theUniversity of Granada Vice-Chancellor and the CentralLibrary.

Within easy reach of HospitalReal is the gate, Puerta deElvira (27), framed by a hugehorseshoe arch dating back tothe late eleventh century.Calle Acera de San Ildefonsotakes us to Convento de laMerced Calzada and theChurch of San Ildefonso, toend up at Monasterio de laCartuja (28), built in thepurest baroque style.Although works commencedin 1515, the monastery is far

removed from the aestheticcanons of that time. Theprofusely-ornamented church,the sacristy and the sacrariumall contain pieces of greatartistic value.

Puerta de Elvira

Monasterio de la Cartuja

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24

Plaza Nueva acquired itspresent appearance after atunnel was built over theRiver Darro. On one side ofthe square, our gaze is met bythe Real Chancillería (29),built in 1530 to the design ofDiego de Siloé. The façade isthe work of stonemasonMartín Díaz and sculptorAlfonso Hernández. CalleReyes Católicos leads intoPlaza de Isabel la Católica,surveyed by a sculpture of the Catholic Queen andChristopher Columbus, thework of Mariano Benlliure.Nearby is the Corral delCarbón (30), formerly a

From Plaza Nueva to Realejo

Real Chancillería

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25

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commodities exchange andnow the head office of thefoundation, Legado Andalusí.

The façade is enhanced by ahorseshoe arch and a panel ofmocárabes, or interlaceddesigns. Inside, the building issplit into two arcaded storeys.

City Hall (31) runs along oneside of Plaza del Carmen. In1858, it was moved from itsprevious location in Madrazato the remains of a CalcedCarmelite Convent. Theclassicist façade is the work ofarchitect Juan Pugnaire, whoadded an impressive row ofcentral balconies. Within thebuilding’s walls there is anaustere cloister decoratedwith tiling.

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Plaza de Puerta Real,embellished by a centralfountain, Fuente de lasBatallas, is the point ofconvergence of a number ofstreets: Reyes Católicos,Recogidas, Ángel Ganiventand lastly, Acera del Darro,which follows the course ofthe River Genil. In theadjacent square, Plaza deBibataubín, there is a palaceof the same name and justopposite, on Carrera delGenil, we see Basílica deNuestra Señora de lasAngustias (32), named afterthe city’s patron saint. The baroque altarpiece isembraced by a number ofchapels in which religious

images from the seventeenthand eighteenth centuries are kept.

Continuing along Carrera delGenil towards Camino deRonda and the ring road, wefind ourselves at Parque de lasCiencias, an interactivemuseum specialising in scienceand the universe. The roomsare arranged so as to stimulatethe public’s direct participationwhile light, lenses and soundscreate a world bursting withsensations. Computers are alsovery much at the forefront, inaddition to the planetarium,the butterfly enclosure and the exhibitions organised byLegado Andalusí. It is well

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City Hall

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worth climbing the tower toenjoy an excellent view of the city.

Back in the centre, our nextstop is Plaza de MarianaPineda, which is beside Plazade los Campos, the location ofCuarto Real de Santo Domingo(33), a palatial tower set ingardens used as a retreat bythe Nazarí monarchs duringRamadan. In Plaza de SantoDomingo (34), we might careto visit the church of the samename and admire themagnificent, early sixteenth-century façade, complete withthree half-pointed arches. The predominantly Gothicinterior is complemented by a

number of baroque chapels.Facing us as we come out ofthe church is Casa de losGirones and, a few blocksaway from here, Casa de losTiros (35), the house whichonce belonged to thesixteenth-century noble family,Granada Venegas. The façade,bearing an inscription of thefamily motto, “The heartcommands”, is reminiscent of afortress. The crenellated turretfeatures two balconies and five symmetrically-arranged caryatids.

Inside the house, we arepleasantly surprised by theroom, Cuadra Dorada, and its

Casa de los Tiros

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polychromate ceiling. Nextdoor to Casa de los Tiros isCasa del Padre Suárez, nowtaken up by the RealChancillería Archive.

Plaza del Realejo and CalleMolinos make their way up toCampo del Príncipe (36), socalled because this open spacewas the spot where PrinceJohn, the son of the CatholicSovereigns, was married in1497. Just by Campo delPríncipe stands the Church ofSan Cecilio, commenced in1540 on what was originallythe site of a mosque. Thechurch is situated oppositeCristo de los Favores, a stonecrucifix much revered by thepeople of Granada. Accordingto tradition, if believers visitthe sculpture at three o’clock

on Good Friday afternoon,their prayers will beanswered. Devotees claim that this is true.

Calle Antequeruela Bajaclimbs up to one of the city’smost legendary hotels, theAlhambra Palace, whoseterraces command an amazingview of Granada and theplain. Afterwards, we mightdirect our steps towards thenearby foundation, FundaciónRodríguez Acosta, andInstituto Gómez Moreno (37).Sharing the same villa, thefoundation and the instituteare girdled by delightfulgardens decked out in pondsand classical sculptures. The foundation’s premisesinclude the private quarters ofartist Rodríguez Acosta, whodesigned the gardened villa.His studio is on the upperfloor, while some of hispaintings, dating back to theearly twentieth century, hangin the lower rooms. At Instituto Gómez Moreno,there is an exhibition of oneof the largest privatecollections in Andalusia. The archaeological pieces,together with the canvasesand sculptural works, werecollected by the institute’ssponsor.

Strolling down Callejón Niñodel Royo, we come out at oneof the city’s oldest Arab

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The house of Manuel de Falla

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constructions, Torres Bermejas(38), three towers built as alookout post for defencepurposes.

We now go back the way wecame to call at the house-museum, Casa Museo Manuelde Falla (39), a small,gardened villa where thegreat musician composedsome of his most celebratedworks. Inside, we discover acollection of his personalbelongings, books and scores.Calle Antequeruela Alta takesus up to the auditorium,Auditorio Manuel de Falla, amodern building constructedin 1978 by architect JoséMaría García de Paredes. The auditorium consists of alarge concert hall, rehearsalrooms and a library specialised

in Manuel de Falla’s works.Starting on the right-handside of the building, apathway leads to Carmen delos Mártires (40), yet anotherof the city’s engaging spots.This gardened villa was builton the site allegedly occupiedby dungeons for Christianprisoners at the time of theNazarí Dynasty. Once the cityhad been conquered, aDiscalced Carmelite Conventwas built there and, from1582 to 1587, the priorate washeld by mystic poet San Juande la Cruz. It was not until the eighteenth centurythat the present recreationalvilla, set amid gardens, pools and vantage points, was built. Nowadays, it is used for social and culturalevents.

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Carmen de los Mártires

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The mountain range of SierraNevada boasts the highestpeaks on the IberianPeninsula, with the Mulhacénat an altitude of 3,482 m andthe Veleta, looked on as therange’s symbol, at 3,398 m.Stretching over more than86,200 hectares, the SierraNevada National Park issurrounded by a Nature Parkmeasuring 169,239 hectares,with 60 municipal districtsbelonging to the provinces ofGranada and Almeríascattered over its slopes. Thearea has also been declared aReserve of the Biosphere forits sizeable stocks of endemicflora and fauna.

Tours round the province

Sierra Nevada

Leaving Granada by the GR-420 Road, thought to bethe highest in Europe, wearrive at the ski slopes ofPradollano (Sierra Nevada),one of the continent’sleading winter sports resorts.Equipped with ski lifts fortransport to the main slopes,Pradollano also caters forvisitors with a selection ofhotels and restaurants. Insummer, when the snow andice have disappeared, theroad from Pradollano to theAlpujarras town of Capileirais clear but may be used onlywith the permission of theenvironmental authorities.This road climbs up to the

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Pradollano

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top of the Veleta, windingits way among glacialcirques and lagoons. Duringthe summer months, we canmake out herds of wildgoats (Capra hispanica)grazing on the mountain

tops; and, at sunset, if welook southwards, we can seethe distant MediterraneanSea and the silhouette of themountains of Er Rif,Morocco.

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engaged in bloody battlesagainst the rebel leaders, theinheritors of a Nazarí Dynastywhich had ceased to exist. All that remains of thosebattles, however, is a memory, for the towns of Las Alpujarras wererepopulated by old Christiansfrom Galicia, Castile-La Mancha and Jaén.

The usual way to enter theregion is by the A-44 Road.Kilometres further on, the

Las Alpujarras

Patio. Lanjarón

Alpujarra is an Arabic wordmeaning hill of grass. In termsof history and scenery, Las Alpujarras is one of therichest regions in the provinceof Granada. Situated on thesouthern slopes of SierraNevada, it acts as a backclothto a vast number ofwhitewashed towns andvillages, which combine anoriginal layout with a curiousform of popular architecture.Clinging to abrupt hillsides,the villages nestle amid fast-flowing rivers and denseforests of holm oak, chestnutand conifer.

Las Alpujarras was the laststronghold of the Moorsbefore they were driven outfor good towards the end ofsixteenth century. It was herethat the troops of Philip II

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View of Órgiva

steps away from the hotelsopened in the late nineteenthcentury, stands the Church of Nuestra Señora de laEncarnación. Built in the mid-sixteenth century, it possessesone of the province’s mostexquisite baroque altarpieces.

What might be described asthe anteroom of the Upperand Lower Alpujarras, Órgivahas become the region’scommercial and

The spa at Lanjarón

A-348 Regional Road runsbetween the town of Durcaland Lanjarón, considered tobe the historical gateway toLas Alpujarras. Renowned forits medicinal mineral waters,the Lanjarón Spa, dating backto the eighteenth century, hasfive springs whose waters arespecially recommended forrheumatic, pulmonary anddigestive complaints, alongwith obesity and diabetes. In the town centre, just a few

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Capileira

administrative centre. Slottedbetween Sierra de Lújar andthe southern foothills ofSierra Nevada, the town usedto be an inevitable stopoveron the route to Granada’sCosta Tropical. Thiscrossroads, lying in the RiverGuadalfeo Valley, is also thelocation of the sixteenth-century church, Iglesia de laExpectación, noted for itsgraceful twin bell towers.

The gully known as Barrancodel Poquiera, one of theregion’s most popular spots,is the setting for threepicturesque towns:Pampaneira, Bubión andCapileira. As we enter thefirst, we are greeted by a setof tiles bearing the message:“Traveller, come and live withus”. The most interestingaspect of all three towns isthe popular architecturereflected in the houses,streets and squares. Steepalleyways lead to clusters ofhouses topped with grey clayroofing, on which chimneypots crowned with slate areperched. In Bubión, there is achurch with a remarkableMudéjar ceiling and in

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Capileira, we might feelinclined to go round themuseum of ethnography andpopular customs, dedicated tothe memory of Pedro Antoniode Alarcón.

In the nineteenth century,towns like Pitres andPórtugos, sitting on the lowerridges of the Mulhacén peak,were a favourite haunt ofRomantic travellers and aretoday very much as they werethen. Trevélez, known far andwide for its ham-curingtechniques, is considered tobe the highest village inSpain. Its three districts, lower,middle and upper, are at analtitude of 1,476 m on thebanks of the River Trevélez, in whose waters trout swim

by the score. The UpperAlpujarra is studded withtowns like Busquístar,Bérchules, Cádiar and Válor;and of course, Yegen, whereHispanist Gerald Brenan livedin the first half of thetwentieth century and wrote,amongst many other works,South of Granada.

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View of Pampaneira

View of Trevélez

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round. Added to this, it basksin sunshine for 320 days ayear. Such a benevolentclimate has led to thewidespread cultivation oftropical fruits such as mango,avocado, cherimoya andpapaya on the slopesoverlooking the beaches. Thefull length of the coastline isdotted with lookout towersand beacons from which thesea was surveyed during theperiod of Arab domination. Inrecent decades, qualitytourism has prospered, withthe resultant appearance of

Costa Tropical

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Costa Tropical, stretchingalong 103 km of shoreline, is asequence of beaches andcoves lapped by clean,crystalline waters. This regionof Granada is bathed by thetepid waters of theMediterranean Sea, oncesailed by the leadingcivilisations of the WesternWorld. Because of itssubtropical microclimate,Costa Tropical is blessed withan average annualtemperature of over 20degrees, meaning thatbathing is a pleasure all year

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hotels and restaurants in allthe main towns along theroute. One of Costa Tropical’smain attractions is its nauticalsports facilities, where themore adventurous maychoose, for instance, betweenscuba diving and paragliding.

La Herradura is a tiny fishingvillage tucked away in a bay,with the hill known as CerroGordo on one side and theMona Headland on the other.Close by we find the nudistbeach, Cantarriján, and thepleasure harbour, Marina delEste, ranking among thefinest on the Andalusiancoastline. Almuñécar, theoldest town in southernGranada, is an ideal place forthe Archaeological Museum,housed in the cave, Cueva de

los Siete Palacios, wherecollections of pieces andhousehold articles from thePhoenician, Roman and ArabEras are on display. The castle,Castillo de San Miguel, is anold Arab fortress lookingdown onto the old quarter.On the promenade, ourattention is aroused by abronze statue of AbderramánI, who landed on the beach,Playa de San Cristóbal, in 755.

The beach at La Herradura

Marina del Este

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View of Salobreña

sixteenth and seventeenth-century religious images, afterwhich we might be temptedto go down to the beach andtake a dip in the welcoming,warm waters.

Motril, the province’s secondmost-densely populated town,has 20 kilometres of coastlineand seven beaches, the mostattractive of which is Playa dePoniente, hemmed by apromenade noted for itsnightlife. As far as sights go,the town is proud of itsshrine, Santuario de NuestraSeñora de la Cabeza, built ona former summer palace

Nautical sports centre. Motril

Other places of interestinclude the OrnithologicalPark and Parque del Majuelo.

When taking the N-340 Road,running all the way alongCosta Tropical, drivers shouldbe mindful of the curves andbends ahead, particularly onthe section leading toSalobreña. Here, whitewashedhouses bespatter a rocky cragcapped by an Arab fortress.The quaintest districts inSalobreña are El Albayzín, El Brocal and La Fuente. The Mudéjar Church ofNuestra Señora del Rosario isworth a visit to admire the

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belonging to Sultana Aixa, themother of Boabdil. At thefoot of the sanctuary liesParque de las Américas. Whilein the town, we should notmiss the main church, thebaroque Iglesia Mayor de laEncarnación, or Casa de laPalma, a Moslem sugarrefinery where the first pre-industrial sugar museum wasinstalled. Going towards theeast, we reach Torrenueva,sitting on one side of CapeSacratif. Carchuna andCalahonda are two smallsummer holiday resorts in theproximity of Castell de Ferro,where a Roman castle looksdown at the world while thecliffs at the foot of Sierra dela Contraviesa crash into thesea. Castillo de Baños,

La Marmola, Melicena andLa Rábita are four smallfishing towns which haveremained unchanged despitethe passing of time. La Rábitais a maze of tiny coves andquiet beaches.

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The beach at Castell de Ferro

La Mamola

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Guadix and the Altiplano

Castle turrets. Guadix

The castle. La Calahorra

Renaissance style; or Alquife,famous for its iron mines.From Jerez del Marquesado,the region’s administrativecapital, trips to the northernface of Sierra Nevada areorganised.

Guadix is the largest town innorthern Granada and alsothe one with most sights to beseen. A crossroads betweenLevante and Andalusia, it is

The regions making upnorthern Granada aresqueezed between hugemassifs. We see how thenorthern slopes of SierraNevada plunge intoMarquesado del Zenete, thehome of towns such as La Calahorra, with itssixteenth-century castlecomplete with a superb,marble courtyard in the

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Guadix Cathedral

northern tableland orAltiplano, which has analtitude of 1,000 m.

The town of Guadix has avast historical and artisticheritage, starting with LaAlcazaba, or castle. Declareda National Monument, it isan old construction of Araborigin, flanked by turretsbuilt in the eleventh century.Next, the cathedral, thetown’s star sight, consistingof a medley of styles.

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best known for its “troglodytequarter”, where over 2,000cave dwellings spread throughthe popular districts of La Ermita and Las Cuevas. One of the cavesaccommodates the Museumof Art and Popular Customs,where a comprehensivecollection of the area’sceramics and handicrafts is ondisplay. Next to the museum isthe vantage point, Mirador de la Magdalena, with anastonishing view of the

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Marquesado del Zenete,while the Baza Road will takeus to the Altiplano. Baza is anage-old city at the foot of amountainous chain, now adesignated Nature Park. Itwas here that the Dama deBaza (Lady of Baza) wasfound, a valuable piece ofIberian origin, dated aroundthe third and fourthcenturies B.C. The castle tellsof the town’s Arab origin, asindeed do the twelfth-century Arab baths, situatedin the old Jewish quarter. TheCollegiate Church of NuestraSeñora de la Encarnación waserected in the sixteenthcentury on the remains ofwhat was once the mainmosque. Although thefooting is in the Gothic style,the façade is plateresque. Weshould also find time to visitthe Town Hall, Palacio de losEnríquez and the fountain,Fuente de los Caños Dorados.

To reach the villages of theAltiplano, we take the A-330Road and, just seven km from Galera, we call at Orceand perhaps visit theArchaeological Museum,followed by the Museum ofPrehistory and Palaeontology,located in the castle keep atAlcazaba de las Siete Torres.Here, most of thepalaeontological findingsunearthed at nearbyVentamicena are on display.

Originally Gothic, it acquireda Renaissance air when Diegode Siloé took a hand in thedesign, to be followed bychapels built to baroquecanons. As a matter of fact,the baroque choir isconsidered to be among thebest in Spain. Other churchesof interest include Santa Ana,Santo Domingo and SanFrancisco. The arcaded Plazadel Ayuntamiento hassomething of the Castilianabout it, striking a contrastwith the Andalusianambience pervading the oldquarters.

The A-92 Expressway splits asit passes through Guadix.Taking the Almería Road, wereach the region,

The castle. Baza

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Sierra de Castril

Street in Orce

At Huéscar, a number ofinteresting sights await us,such as the early sixteenth-century Gothic-RenaissanceCollegiate Church of SantaMaría la Mayor, designed byDiego de Siloé. We notice theold sacristy with itsfrontispiece from the era ofIsabella II and inside, the

Gothic vaults. Next, theChurch of Santiago, resting onthe remains of the oldmosque; the Convent of SantoDomingo; and the Modernisthouse. Not far from Huéscar,we come to Castril, thegateway to the Sierra deCastril Nature Park, thecontinuation of Parque deCazorla, Segura y las Villas, inthe province of Jaén.

La Puebla de Don Fadrique, inthe area of Sierra de la Sagra,is the last village in northernGranada. The municipaldistrict borders with theprovinces of Jaén, Albaceteand Murcia. In the oldquarter, we find the Church of Nuestra Señora de laQuinta Angustia and Casa delos Patiño, a handsomeseventeenth-century ancestralhome.

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The A-92 Road runs fromGranada to El Poniente,which shares its borders withthe provinces of Málaga,Córdoba and Jaén. Thisregion has gone down inhistory books as the lastfrontier of Al Andalus. In1492, before making theirgrand entrance into Granada,the troops of the CatholicSovereigns set up their campin the village of Santa Fe,situated on the fertile plainirrigated by the River Genil.

At no great distance, we findourselves in Fuente Vaqueros,whose main attraction is thehouse, now a museum, wherepoet Federico García Lorcawas born.

Lorca spent many a summer inthe Garden of San Vicente,where he wrote a lot of hisliterary works. At what is nowa museum and cultural centre,we have the chance to seedrawings and paintings byDalí, for instance, in additionto the original furniture. Theexhibition room is used tohold cultural events relatingto the poet’s life and works.

Montefrío is one of theprovince’s quaintest villages.The first buildings to catch oureye are the Arab fortress andthe village church, standingtogether atop a steep crag.Below, we stroll down streetslined with houses in thetraditional design to come out

Montefrío

El Poniente

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at the square and the church,Iglesia de la Encarnación,which, with its totally circularfooting, reminds us of aRoman pantheon. Also worthvisiting is the granary orPósito, an eighteenth-centurybuilding now used as acultural centre.

The Convent of SantoDomingo and the villagechurch, which has been

Street and Collegiate Church.Alhama de Granada

attributed to Diego de Siloé,complete our sightseeing tourof a village encompassed bycountless beauty spots andpalaeontological sites. In thearea known as Peña de losGitanos, valuable prehistoricdolmens and diagrammaticcave paintings have beenfound.

Shielded from the sea by amountainous ridge, Alhamade Granada lies to the

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renowned architect, Diego deSiloé. Beside it, Casa de laInquisición, once the seat of the Inquisition’s regionaltribunal. The building is ofparticular interest on accountof the façade, midwaybetween late Gothic and earlyRenaissance. Before leavingAlhama de Granada, weshould find the time to go tothe Arab castle, Hospital de laReina, and the church, Iglesiadel Carmen, formerly aDiscalced Carmelite Convent.This Renaissance church alsohas a number of baroquefeatures.

At the side of the A-92 Roadas it makes it way towardsSeville, Loja comes into view.Looking down at the waters

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southwest of Granada. Itspretty, whitewashed housesare anchored on a sheer crag,scarred by the waters of afast-flowing river. We shouldmake a point of visiting theArab Baths, situated in theinterior of Hotel Balneario.The original Romanconstruction, dating back tothe first century B.C., wascompleted in the Arab Erawith a series of arches andvaults in the caliphal style. In the old quarter, we call atthe church, Iglesia de laEncarnación, built on the siteof the main mosque ascommanded by the CatholicSovereigns. Dated around thefifteenth and sixteenthcenturies, this Gothic templereflects the work of the

Casa de la Inquisición. Alhama de Granada

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of the River Genil from theslopes of a valley, the townhas a number of attractionsfor the sightseer, not least,the main church, Iglesia de laEncarnación, which startedout as Gothic and ended up inthe neoclassical style. Next, wedirect our steps towards thehouse, gardens andmausoleum of Ramón MaríaNarváez, the head of IsabellaII’s government, completingour cultural tour at the castle,followed by the fountain,with no less than 25 spouts,and the sixteenth-centuryPósito, erected on a hilloverlooking the town. Close by is the beauty spot

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View of Loja

known as Los Infiernos, wherecrystalline waterfalls pourforth against a backdrop ofrocks and crevices relieved byidyllic woodland.

Finally, not far from theborder with the province ofMálaga, we come to Ríofrio, asummer holiday resort alsoknown for its fish farm, whereAndalusia’s most covetedsalmon trout are bred alongwith belugas, the source ofprime caviar.

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Antón pottages, made fromsalt pork, dried beans andblack puddings from themountainous regions, areworthy of special mention,while Sacromonte isrenowned for its omelettes.At any of the city’srestaurants, we might trygazpacho; snails, when inseason; broad beans withham; remojón granadino,made from cod and oranges;poorman’s potatoes with friedeggs; and breadcrumbs mixedwith pork produce.

Granada’s cuisine variesgreatly from one region toanother. On Costa Tropical,most dishes are based on

Using the fruits provided byearth, orchard and plain, forcenturies, Granada has beenevolving its own populargastronomy, which, as weshall see in the dishesprepared each day in thedistricts of Albayzín andSacromonte, is highlyreminiscent of the Nazarí Era.The garlic soup and the San

Leisure and culture

Gastronomy

Foodstuffs. Las Alpujarras

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fish and tropical fruit. At theseafood restaurants, there isno lack of grilled fish, riceand shellfish dishes, blue fishmarinades, dried octopusand skewered sardinescooked over an open fire.Motril’s traditional dish is ajocabañil, consisting of vealcooked slowly in a garlicsauce, while Costa Tropical isa must for tropical fruitlovers. Here, bananas,papayas, avocado pears andcherimoyas, often servedtogether in a colourful fruitsalad, make for an extra-special dessert.

As we can see from the name,alpujarreño is the culinarydelight of the Apujarras. Thissolid dish, a combination ofpoorman’s potatoes, fried

eggs, chorizo, longaniza(another variety of spicedsausage), black pudding andgriddled ham, is sometimesserved with shepherd’sbreadcrumbs. Other localdelights include chick pea potstews and Swiss chard andspinach pottages. Trevélez isthe place for wild trout, notforgetting that it is also thehome of Andalusia’s primecured ham.

In the region of the Altiplano,cooking revolves roundSegura lamb. In the coldwinter months, whole familiesgather to prepare meats andsausages. In El Poniente, thetown of Montefrío is notedfor its chorizo and blackpuddings, roasted over openfires at the local bars.

Seafood

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On Sierra Nevada, with morethan 60 kilometres of skislopes, it is possible to practisealpine, Nordic and cross-country skiing, wedeln,telemark and snowboarding.The skiing season usually lastsfrom November to April.Minimum height above sealevel is 2,220 m, with amaximum altitude of 3,300 m.In recent years, the Pradollanoski resort has soared inpopularity. Sierra Nevada’sbest-known slope, Río,descends from Borreguilles, a rest area at an altitude of2,800 m, midway betweenPradollano and the Veletaslopes. An added advantage isthat floodlights have been

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Sports

Granada’s confectionery takesits inspiration from Arab andJewish recipes. On the plain,Santa Fe is famous for thepionono, sponge cake filledwith crème patissière anddrenched in syrup. At theconvents, a wide variety ofdelectable sweetmeats isproduced: sponges soaked inliqueurs; torrijas, or breadsoaked in milk and then fried;huesos de santo; pestiños dela Encarnación, or honey-coated pancakes; andhojaldres de los Jerónimos,made with puff pastry. An array of fruit is available at market stalls, where,naturally enough, it is unusualnot to find the symbolicpomegranate (granada inSpanish) displayed alongsidepersimmon, prickly pears andhackberries. Out in thecountryside, we might treatourselves to curd (cuajadade Carnaval), sponge cakes(soplillos de la Alpujarra),or Motril’s very own torta real.

In the Alpujarras, dried fruitand nuts are used to makeliqueurs while Sierra deContraviesa produces a white wine that combineswell with rice and fish dishes.

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installed for those wishing topractise their favourite sportat night.

During the summer months,Sierra Nevada turns into abackpacker’s dream. In Julyand August, walks to thepeaks of the Veleta andMulhacén are organised. Theroad from Pradollano to theAlpujarras town of Capileiratakes us to the top of theVeleta, where we may enjoy abreathtaking view of thelength and breadth ofAndalusia. However, thosewishing to drive up must havethe permission of the NationalPark authorities. Anotheralternative is to take the busthat sets off from Pradollanofirst thing in the morning andpicks passengers up in theearly afternoon. For walkers,the paths marked out in theproximity of these, thehighest peaks on the IberianPeninsula, form part of theroutes known as GranRecorrido (GR), or longdistance, and PequeñoRecorrido (PR), or shortdistance.

Here, we shall have thechance to contemplate glaciallagoons, gorges andsnowfields, where, at the verytop, ice is a permanentfeature, even in the summer.

The town of Loja in ElPoniente has a flying club, asdo Motril and Almuñécar,with paragliding facilities justby the beach. Marina del Este,not far from La Herradura, is one of Andalusia’s mostpopular nautical sportscentres, offering anythingfrom sailing and scuba divingto windsurfing and sportfishing.

Costa Tropical is the bestchoice for golf enthusiasts. Los Moriscos, situated offPlaya Granada and withineasy reach of Motril, has asurface area of over 200,000 m2. Another option isthe 18-hole golf course knownas Las Gabias, only 10 kmfrom Granada.

Backpackers and mountainbikers will enjoy trips alongthe many paths to be found inthe regions of the Altiplanoand the Alpujarras, while

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Culturally speaking, Granadais one of the liveliest cities inSpain. All year round, thereare exhibitions, conferences,round tables, music recitalsand dramatic art events,which combine with thecity’s traditional fiestas toproduce an endless calendarof activities.

On January 2, the day thecity was taken by theCatholic Sovereigns is

climbing, abseiling and raftingare available at the naturepark, Parque Natural de laSierra de Castril, lying in thenorth of the province,adjacent to the Jaén park,Parque de Cazorla, Segura ylas Villas.

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Culture and fiestas

commemorated. For years,this fiesta has been seen as away of encouragingtolerance among the variouspeoples that have inhabitedthe city through thecenturies. The first Sunday inFebruary, the fiesta inhonour of Granada’s patronsaint, San Cecilio, takesplace. Holy Week provides aunique opportunity to watchthe astonishingly beautifulprocessions as they maketheir way through the city’shistorical quarters, such asAlbayzín and Sacromonte.These processions aredesignated events ofNational Touristic Interest.We should not miss thespectacular Procesión de losGitanos, which takes place inSacromonte, Procesión delSilencio or Procesión deNuestra Señora de laAlhambra.

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March is set aside for theworld-famous InternationalTango Festival, during whichconcerts are held at TeatroIsabel la Católica and Palaciode Congresos y Exposiciones.

From March to May, the cityis the venue of a music cycleknown as Primavera Musical,which includes concerts atthe auditorium, AuditorioManuel de Falla, and atTeatro Isabel la Católica,situated in Puerto Real.

On May 3, Día de la Cruz,it is custom in Granada todecorate patios, streets,houses and balconies,especially in districts of suchtraditional significance asAntequeruela and Realejo.

However, Granada’s majorfiesta takes place on CorpusChristi, which falls on a

different day each year. The procession, watched bythousands of local peopleand tourists, sets off fromthe cathedral. Meanwhile,the fairground comes aliveand bullfights are held everyafternoon. The FlamencoFestival is also on the CorpusChristi agenda, withperformances at a numberof different venues roundthe city, especially inAlbayzín and Sacromonte.

The last Sunday in June isthe day of Procesión delSagrado Corazón de Jesús, areligious event deeplyrooted in the hearts of thepeople of Granada, whoflock to the city from all overthe province.

The International Music andDance Festival, Ciudad deGranada, is the city’s leading

Auditorio Manuel de Falla.Granada

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cultural event. In June andJuly, the city’s main sightsprovide the setting forperformances and concerts.The ones held in the Nazarípalaces at the Alhambra andthe circular patio at Palaciode Carlos V are exceptionallycolourful. In recent decades,musicians and composers ofinternational acclaim havetaken part in this festival.

On September 29, thepilgrimage in honour of San Miguel starts out fromAlbayzín, ending at the topof the hill known asAceituno. The last Sunday inSeptember is the day for thefiestas held in the name ofthe city’s patron saint,Virgen de las Angustias,when a variety of festive andsocial events are organised,including bullfights.November brings theInternational Jazz Festival,while the theatre and scenicarts season lasts the wholeyear. Granada’s festivecalendar comes to an end inDecember, with Christmasand New Year’s Eve.

Many of the province’sfiestas have been includedon Andalusia’s list of eventsof National Touristic Interest.This is particularly true offestivities associated withHoly Week. For instance, in

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Almuñécar, we findprocessions in honour ofVirgen de la Antigua and inMotril, Dulce Nombre deJesús. Nevertheless, summeris the time for most festiveand cultural activities. In Íllora, the InternationalParapanda Folk Festivaltakes place during the lastweek of July. Baza andGuadix celebrate Fiesta delCascamorros, where thecentral figure is anoutlandishly-dressed,burlesque character whosejapes taunt and bewilder thelocal people. Lanjarón is the scene of a water festival,Festival del Agua. At townssuch as Zújar, Moors fightagainst Christians during thesummer months. One ofGranada’s most curiousfiestas is held at Bérchules,in the Aplujarras. Ever sinceDecember 31 1994, whenthe town’s electricity supplywas cut off all through thenight, New Year’s Eve hasbeen celebrated on August1. True to Spanish tradition,at midnight, thousands oflocal people and visitors eattheir twelve lucky grapes to the chimes of themunicipal clock.

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Granada’s arts and crafts aresteeped in the Andalusíheritage. Following atradition going backcenturies, workshops all overthe city are open every day ofthe week. In traditionaldistricts like Albayzín andSacromonte, we come acrosscraftsmen working in wood,clay and iron. Carpentersspecialising in marquetryproduce articles painstakinglydecorated in shells, mother-of-pearl, metal andpolychrome wood. Ceramicsare in a class of their own ascraftsmen exploit metallicreflections and skills such as cuerda seca, a fifteenth-century decorative techniqueof Arab origin, while

deploying motifs typicallyassociated with Al-Andalusand Granada. But this is notall, for Granada is also thehome of leading luthiers whostill follow the old masters’teachings to make guitars.Most luthiers belong to local guilds.

The city centre is the bestplace for shopping. In theAlcaicería, near the cathedraland not far from Plaza deBirrambla, small businessesare open every day of theweek for those wishing to buya souvenir or articlesrepresentative of the Andalusítradition. Marquetry work willbe found everywhere,although there is no shortage

Handicrafts and shopping

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of gold and silver jewelleryand silk and linen fabrics, notto mention decorativemetallic objects made bymaster ironsmiths. In CalleZacatín, a short walk awayfrom the Alcaicería, a host offamily businesses display akind of ceramics known locallyas fajalauza, after the place atone of the entrances toAlbayzín, where craftsmenused to live and work.Boutiques are mainly to befound on Calle Recogidas,Puerta Real and ReyesCatólicos, while antique-hunters should go to the arearound Plaza Nueva and Elvira.For literature enthusiasts, yetanother attraction is thesecond-hand bookshops.Practically all these

establishments are in thevicinity of Calle ReyesCatólicos and Plaza Nueva.

In the province of Granada,handicrafts go by regions. Las Alpujarras are replete withtextile workshops producingthe famous jarapas, rugs of allshapes, sizes, patterns andcolours, made of wool fromthe cattle grazing in thenearby pastures. At theworkshops on the Altiplano,ceramics and pottery are stillmade in the old way. The towns of El Poniente are noteworthy for their tile-makers’ workshops andalso for their masterironsmiths, whose speciality isgrilles for windows andbalconies.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

International dialling code % 34

Tourist informationTURESPAÑAwww.spain.info

Turismo AndaluzPlaza Nueva (next to the church, Iglesia de Santa Ana)% 901 200 020www.andalucia.org

Patronato Provincial deTurismo de GranadaPlaza Mariana Pineda 10, 2º18009 Granada% 958 247 146

Alhambra and GeneralifeReal de la Alhambra% 902 441 221

Bookings: Banco BBVA% 902 224 460

(As admission is limited, please book in advance toavoid queuing)www.alhambra-patronato.eswww.alhambratikets.es

El Legado AndalusíCorral del Carbón% 958 225 995www.legadoandalusi.es

Parque Nacional de Sierra NevadaOld Sierra Nevada Road, km. 7% 958 026 300

Sierra Nevada Visitors’Centre, El DornajoCarretera de Sierra Nevada% 902 708 090

Sierra Nevada Ski ResortInformation% 958 249 119www.sierranevadaski.com

Virgen Blanca, 9% 902 405 045) 958 536 973www.granadatur.com

Plaza de Santa Ana, 2% 958 575 202) 958 575 203

Plaza Mariana Pineda, 10% 958 247 128) 958 247 127

AlhambraAvenida del Generalife(next to the ticket office)% 958 544 002) 958 544 007

GuadixAvenida de Maria Pineda% 958 699 574) 958 699 573

TOURIST OFFICES

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CANADA. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2� 1416/ 961 31 31) 1416/ 961 19 92www.tourspain.toronto.on.cae-mail: toronto@tourspain.es

JAPAN. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.6F 3-1-10 Toranomon Minato-Ku.TOKYO-105-0001� 813/ 34 32 61 42) 813/ 34 32 61 44www.spain.info/jpe-mail: tokio@tourspain.es

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND, DublínSpanish Tourist Office1, 2, 3 Westmoreland StreetDublin 2e-mail: dublin@tourspain.es

RUSSIA. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya - 16/2 26th floorMoscow 125009� 7495/ 935 83 99) 7495/ 935 83 96www.tourspain.rue-mail: moscu@tourspain.es

SPANISH TOURIST OFFICES ABROAD

LojaCalle Comedias% 958 323 949

MotrilAvenida de la Constitución% 958 825 481

Booking OfficeRequena, 3. Madrid 28013% 902 547 979) 902 525 432www.parador.es

Parador de Turismo de GranadaReal de la Alhanbra% 958 221 440) 958 222 264

STATE HOTELS (PARADORES)

AENA (Spanish Airports andAir Navigation)% 902 404 704www.aena.esADIF-RENFE% 902 240 202

International information% 902 243 402www.renfe.eswww.adif.esTeleroute% 900 123 505www.dgt.es

TRANSPORT

Emergencies % 112Medical assistance % 061National police % 091Municipal police % 092

Civil Guard % 062Post Office % 902 197 197www.correos.es

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS

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Singapore. SingaporeSpanish Tourist Office541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower# 09-04 238881 Singapore� 65/67 37 30 08,) 65/67 37 31 73e-mail: singapore@tourspain.es

UNITED KINGDOM. LondonSpanish Tourist Office2nd floor, 79 Cavendish StreetLondon W1A 6XB� 44207/ 486 80 77) 44207/ 486 80 34www.spain.info/uke-mail: londres@tourspain.es

UNITED STATES OF AMERICAwww.spain.info/usLos AngelesTourist Office of Spain 8383Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 Beverly HillsCalifornia 90211� 1323/ 658 71 95) 1312/ 658 10 61e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.es

ChicagoTourist Office of SpainWater Tower Place, Suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueChicago, Illinois 60-611� 1312/ 642 19 92) 1312/ 642 98 17e-mail: chicago@tourspain.es

MiamiTourist Office of Spain1395 Brickell Avenue Miami, Florida 33131� 1305/ 358 19 92) 1305/ 358 82 23e-mail: miami@tourspain.es

New YorkTourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor.

New York, New York� 1212/ 265 88 22) 1212/ 265 88 64e-mail: nuevayork@tourspain.es

CanadaNuñez de Balboa, 35 - 3º� 914 233 250. ) 914 233 251JapanSerrano, 109� 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321Republic of IrelandClaudio Coello, 73� 915 763 500 ) 914 351 677

RussiaVelazquez, 155� 915 622 264. ) 915 629 712United KingdomFernando El Santo, 16� 913 190 200. ) 913 081 033United States of America Serrano, 75� 915 872 200. ) 915 872 303

EMBASSIES IN MADRID

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Information OfficePost Office

HospitalState Hotel (Parador)Car parkPoliceRailway station

TOUR I

1. Plaza Nueva2. Casa de los Pisas3. El Bañuelo4. Convent of Santa

Catalina de Zafra5. Casa de Castril6. Church of San Pedro and

San Pablo7. Church of San Juan de

los Reyes8. Paseo de los Tristes9. Palacio de los Córdova

10. Casa del Chapiz11. Abadía de Sacromonte12. Plaza del Salvador13. Mirador de San Nicolás14. Palacio de Dar-al-Horra15. Monasterio de Santa

Isabel la Real16. Church of San José

TOUR II

17. Cathedral18. Royal Chapel.

Capilla Real19. Madraza20. Alcaicería21. Universidad Literaria22. Iglesia de los Santos

Justo y Pastor23. Colegio Mayor de San

Bartolomé y Santiago24. Monasterio de San

Jerónimo

25. Hospital y Basílica deSan Juan de Dios

26. Hospital Real27. Puerta de Elvira28. Monasterio de la Cartuja

TOUR III

29. Real Chancillería30. Corral del Carbón31. City Hall32. Basílica de Nuestra

Señora de las Angustias33. Cuarto Real de Santo

Domingo34. Plaza de Santo Domingo35. Casa de los Tiros36. Campo del Príncipe37. Fundación Rodríguez

Acosta/Instituto GómezMoreno

38. Torres Bermejas39. House of Manuel

de Falla40. Carmen de los Mártires

COMMON SIGNS

Photograph: Gardens at the Generalife Granada

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